arctic circle

Our guide’s voice breaks the silence, even-toned, but with a noticeable sense of urgency. “We need to get back to the Zodiacs—there’s been a polar bear sighting.” Twenty-five SLRs freeze mid-click. We file back along the rocky shoreline towards the boats, an energy in our steps equal parts thrill and fear. It’s one thing to read about polar bears in National Geographic. It’s quite another to come face-to-face with one on his home turf. My eyes scan the shore, the sea, and past the huddle...