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Hacienda AltaGracia in Costa Rica is the best choice for wellness
Hacienda AltaGracia is the Costa Rican wellness resort everyone is talking about. Never-ending choices of activities and treatments to nourish mind and body in a tropical, fairy-tale setting. THE WELL, Hacienda AltaGracia’s spa, is a sanctuary within a sanctuary. Good luck choosing between wellness experiences, off-property excursions, where to eat, what to eat, or where to lounge.

There are more than enough choices at Hacienda AltaGracia, an Auberge Resort. There just isn’t enough time.

Our twin-engine Cessna glides over the mountainous interior of Costa Rica. It’s 6am. The sun is skimming the tree tops, and a misty translucent glow is rising above them. Clouds are weaving in and out of view. The deafening roar of the engines makes conversation impossible, so my friend and I sit back and soak up the verdant landscape. Thirty minutes later, our plane dips over the Talamanca Mountains toward our destination—a grassy airstrip at the base of Costa Rica’s newest wellness resort, Hacienda AltaGracia.
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Wellness is always trending at Hacienda AltaGracia

Wellness was once a word synonymous with woo-woo. Is it still? These days, I dare you to find a resort that doesn’t have ‘wellness’ listed in its menu bar. Not just for Los Angelenos anymore, wellness is for everyone. Why shouldn’t it be? Taking care of ourselves from the inside out feels good. There are far worse things trending these days. I have teenagers, bad trends appear in my house daily.

Lisa and I are heading to the mother of all wellness resorts—THE WELL in Costa Rica at Hacienda AltaGracia.

THE WELL, Costa Rica

We’ve come to Hacienda AltaGracia exclusively for THE WELL, one of the most recently opened spas to take on wellness and well-being. In addition to this Costa Rica location, THE WELL has multiple locations in Auberge Resorts around the world, including a stand-alone spa in New York City.

THE WELL is known for combining Eastern and Western healing practices, meditation, body treatments, and holistic treatments. It’s quickly becoming one of the world’s most sought-after wellness experiences. Hacienda AltaGracia opened in November 2021 and is leading the wellness way in Costa Rica.

Perched at the highest point of Hacienda AltaGracia’s 180 lush, tropical acres, THE WELL encompasses over 20,000 square feet of naturally lit space. It’s jaw-dropping. I made a point to watch guests enter it for the first time and count gasps. Everyone gasped. Some gasped twice. It’s that impressive.

THE WELL overlooks the Talamanca mountains, a range that contains both Costa Rica and Panama’s highest peaks. Architecturally, the setting not only exudes calm and serenity but intentionally seeks to bring the outdoors in.

Three oversized windowed walls surround an oversized tranquility pool that always mirrors the sky. Two symmetrical square hot tubs flank the pool. This double-tub feature erases the awkwardness of having to make polite hot tub chit-chat with a stranger. I’m a self-proclaimed chit-chatter. But I have two firm exceptions: airplanes and hot tubs.

What exactly does one do at THE WELL?

At the risk of exceeding my self-imposed 2500-word limit, allow me to list some of the many treatments available at THE WELL, Costa Rica. I didn’t have time to partake in all of these treatments, mind you. Even if I did, I wouldn’t have enough money left to cover my cable bill. (That said, many services and treatments are included in the room rate. Yes, that’s 100% true!)

WELL, WELL, WELL

• Join a visiting master for a guided meditation or a breathing session. Book a one-on-one session later to deep dive into your past life or refine your breathing technique.

• Try botanical yoga.

• Connect with your senses by taking a forest and crystal bath (that’s not a typo). Hacienda AltaGracia has a 700-pound crystal quartz on the property where guests can partake in an integrative energy healing session.

• Find a spot on a warm marble slab and take an ethereal lunar gong bath. Later, head back to the spa for a sunset swim or aromatherapy steam.

• Opt for traditional spa treatments: Swedish massage, hot-stone therapy, or cranial massage, for example.

• Push outside of your comfort zone with less-common treatments: Maderoterapia or Wood Therapy is a traditional Central American practice. Or Hierbas y Flores, a nature-infused experience that incorporates native flowers and massage.

This list is by no means complete. Nor, do you have to sign up for any treatments in order to enjoy THE WELL. I spent time there with a book on a lounge chair trying to read. Unfortunately, I was constantly distracted by the surroundings and found myself over-posting on Instagram. This did defeat the concept of relaxation a wee bit. Anything for my followers!

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THE WELL has more choices than my cleansed mind can compute. Would I like a light, medium, or heavy cotton waffle robe from The Robe Bar? Would I like my custom clay body mask mixed with parsley, sage, rosemary, or thyme? Choice—the wellness luxury that just might ruin my wellness experience. Once I accept that there are only good choices, I calm down.

Beyond THE WELL at Hacienda AltaGracia

Wellness is not limited to treatments at Hacienda AltaGracia. Wellness is slow-cooked oat and quinoa porridge with local honeycomb, berries, and cocoa nibs while watching a charm of hummingbirds. It’s self-guided yoga on our expansive villa deck, listening to frogs croak. Wellness is my morning green juice from Mercado and my evening cocktail at the bar.

Since this is Lisa’s second visit to Hacienda AltaGracia, she takes over the trip’s itinerary. As much as I love to plan, having someone whose travel sensibilities I trust to do it for me is a welcome change. (For the record, I trust my husband’s travel spidey-sense too—in case he reads this and feels slighted.)

A Bath upon Arrival

After landing, we head directly to Mercado—the most non-lobby resort lobby I’ve yet to see. Mercado is part of a highly curated boutique and part of the Friends-style Central Perk. The café has homemade pastries, specialty coffee, juices, quiche, and other baked goods available all day at no cost. Lisa discovers her love of sparkling espresso while I devour cookies like a greedy toddler.

We are gently whisked from Mercado to one of the property’s signature treatments: The River Bath, an immersive outdoor nature-filled experience. An overgrown flower-filled path leads to a warm stone-edged plunge pool beside a cool stone-edged river. Over two hours, we toggle back and forth between the two, looking to cleanse our auras as the treatment advertises. Butterflies surround us. We slot into their habitat with ease.

Wellness, as a travel trend, isn’t limited to people who are fully invested in mindfulness and meditation. It’s good old-fashioned well-being. Resorts like Hacienda AltaGracia appeal to everyone from yogi masters to once-a-year meditators. How you spend time at this tropical Costa Rica wellness resort is your choice. And choices abound.

Over four days, Lisa and I find that critical balance of physical activity, mindfulness, and relaxation. Oh, and eating. That activity is not quite as balanced as the others. At Hacienda AltaGracia, all food is included in the room rate, so we choose to consume everything the menus offer. Cold-marinated Pacific prawns or prawn-filled blue corn tortillas? Both, please. And throw in an order of tuna tiradito, pan-fried line fish, and beef empanadas, if you don’t mind. They don’t mind.

Difficult choices at Hacienda AltaGracia

There are multiple places to dine and drink throughout the property. Grano is the main restaurant with both indoor and outdoor options that are equally inviting. El Cultivo, just beside Grano, is Hacienda AltaGracia’s organic garden. Lunch is served at Las Brisas, one of two open-air poolside restaurants. The food is healthy, but not the tasteless calorie-limited kind of healthy generally associated with spa trips.

I can anticipate the next question. Yes, they serve alcohol at Hacienda AltaGracia! I say this for those who hear the words ‘wellness resort’ and assume they’ll have to smuggle in alcohol.

Wait, you’ve never done that? Me neither.

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For horse lovers only

I’ve never been a horse person. But Hacienda AltaGracia has quite a set-up for those who are. If you don’t like horses, skip ahead. I don’t mind.

Hacienda AltaGracia’s traditional horse show and dinner, Cienfuegos, is an ongoing event at their modern-designed stables. The 42 Peruvian, Spanish, and Costa Rican horses are living their best lives, and they look like they know it.

Lanterns and fire pits are among the sole sources of light. A band of musicians performs low-key background music. After an hour of cocktails and polite chit-chat (a totally acceptable time for chit-chat) at the immaculate stables, we enter the barn and are seated communally for a family-style dinner. Roasted meats, salads, and veggies prepared Costa Rican style keep us satiated. Wine is poured, and the horse show begins.

The riders entertain the crowd with their control of prancing horses. The atmosphere gets livelier with each round of performances (enhanced by each round of drinks). It’s a festive peek into Costa Rican equestrian tradition. Afterward, we take a golf cart back to the villa to dream of horses. Not me, mind you, but I’m sure many people did.

It sounds cheesy, right? But it’s actually totally fun and festive.

Early Mornings at Hacienda AltaGracia

Lisa organized two super early off-property activities so that we could eat the rest of the day without guilt. I despise early wake-ups. Lisa loves them. It’s surprising we are friends. That said, once I was up (and caffeinated), my anger disappeared. Almost.

Rising before the sun has its pluses. Like seeing the sunrise, for one! Another is the early morning sounds and stillness of nature. One morning we take a 7-mile hike to Roca de Nubes and spot a troop of elusive spider monkeys. Wildlife—another plus of early rising.

The following day we hike to a series of three gushing waterfalls. Our guide asks us to choose (again with the choices!) which one we’d like to swim beneath. The answer for me is none. I may have taken the polar plunge in Antarctica earlier this year, but take my word on this, the water in Costa Rica is much colder. Lisa fully embraces the invigorating experience while I merely dip my toes like the water wimp that I am.

Welcome to the jungle

I take a look around. The landscape around Hacienda AltaGracia is rich in texture. Layers upon layers of prehistorically oversized leaves with stencil-like cutouts, palms, ferns, and fruit-filled banana trees. Dramatic low-hanging clouds drape the Talamanca mountains in the distance. Swallow-tailed Kites soar. As the sun descends, the vegetation takes on a warm hue. What was initially shades of green now appear orange, yellow, and red.

Check availability at Hacienda AltaGracia here

Villa Life at Hacienda AltaGracia

Hacienda AltaGracia’s 50 villas are built into the Costa Rican jungle—seemingly absorbed by it. This makes it feel like a private, remote hideaway. The property is so lovingly nestled in the jungle that the wildlife doesn’t even seem to notice. Hawks swoop overhead and kaleidoscopic-colored butterflies swirl around us.

Our villa’s veranda has a heated plunge pool that overlooks mountainous layers in the distance. Because Lisa wakes up at 4am she always gets to the daybed first. I forgive her.

The living space is lounge-y and inviting, with stacked coffee table books, cushy throws, binoculars, and birding books for bird nerds like me. It has a walk-in closet larger than my first apartment in NYC and a full bar for us to pour drinks as needed. Heated water bottles magically appear tucked under the covers of the beds each evening. If the villa is designed to keep us there, we fail miserably. There is just too much to do.

At Hacienda AltaGracia, it’s your vacation, your choice

On our last night, we have drinks on Grano’s patio with Valerie, one of the visiting wellness masters. Her inherent sense of humor and lightness takes the edge off the woo-woo. We gather around the fire pit at sunset for a release-burning ceremony.

It’s an opportunity to rid ourselves of ‘something that no longer serves us’ by throwing a personal note into the flames. A few husbands attempt to escape, but Valerie lures them back. One by one we throw our paper into the fire and watch it burn. With clear minds and empty stomachs, we head in for dinner.

You don’t have to be a life coach, herbalist, spiritual influencer, or accomplished sound bather in order to have a restorative experience at Hacienda AltaGracia. Everyone can use a few days to reset, recharge, and reload. Whatever your vacation is calling for, there are opportunities to fulfill it at Hacienda AltaGracia. The choices are annoyingly endless.

Well-being and wellness go hand in hand. I can’t think of a better trend to embrace. And you need not go to a luxurious tropical jungle resort in the heart of Costa Rica to do it.

But should you have the choice, it’s certainly a lot more fun.

Check Availability at Hacienda AltaGracia here

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October 5, 2023
Mukul is The Best Family Resort in Nicaragua—Hands Down

Mukul, An Auberge Resort, Nicaragua /

Nicaragua may be Central America’s best-kept secret, or maybe the secret is already out. It’s a little hard to tell as Mukul has a way of being at full capacity while simultaneously making you feel like you have much of the place to yourself—just the right amount of buzz, activity, and beachy retreat: a difficult balance to strike.

Mukul is a place for those searching for a luxury hideaway experience in an off-the-beaten-path locale.

Then take your pick: a three-hour car journey to the Emerald Coast or a 22-minute exhilarating chartered flight weaving past smoking volcanoes and deep craters. Thankfully, the pilots take it in stride; this is their every day in Nicaragua.

Arriving at Mukul

Ending up at the most southwestern point of Nicaragua, in a breathtaking bay on the Pacific Ocean, made the flight a distant memory. In every direction, natural hues set the color palette of the holiday. The blues of the water and the sky, the creamy white sand, and the thatched palapas define the resort. That, along with the palm trees, mango trees, and vibrant greens of all types of cacti, complete the scenic backdrop.

Bohios (tree-top villas) climb the landscape and cut up into the steep hills. One and two-bedroom villas line the beach, each with its own plunge pool, an outdoor palapa, a low-slung white crocheted hammock to snooze, and its private path to the sea.

While offering much of what you would come to expect from a world-class resort: convivial common areas (with coffees, teas, and treats always within arm’s reach), gorgeous pools, luxe bedding, spacious and well-appointed rooms, water sports, excursions, and enticing menus, Mukul found a way to take it a step further.

Outstanding Service at Mukul

Servers that remember your name, who know where you prefer to sit at the beach club, which smoothie the kids like, how you take your cappuccino, and ask at what temperature you would like your plunge pool to be set. I will never forget the Beach Club staff, Melvyn and Ronny, who joined all the kids in volleyball, baseball, and soccer each day.

By noon, the sand was scorching, and you could barely walk a few feet without sprinting to the sea. It was an endearing moment to watch Melvyn watering the sandy soccer pitch with a hose so the kids and their newfound friends could play without burning their feet!

The property encompasses 1,675 acres of the Emerald Coast. Thankfully, chauffeured golf carts and vans are on hand to take you around, whether to the spa, which sits at the top of the property with majestic bay views, or to the expansive tree-top yoga deck. Or, should you want to work off some of the ubiquitous rum drinks at Mukul, you can take one of the complimentary bikes and cruise around at your leisure.

On-Site Activities

Surfing was the main event and holiday highlight for the three of us. I nominated myself in-house photographer and spent leisurely hours under a large thatched canopy on the beach capturing my husband and kids surfing, getting pummeled by waves, and boogie-boarding with wild abandon. I had three good books on hand and a bottle of rosé. With lunch served on the beach daily, along with the staff occasionally passing through with fresh fruit skewers, there was virtually no reason for me to move.

The fantastic thing about Mukul is that the surfing is just outside your villa; no need to take a long boat ride unless you prefer a different break, which Mukul is happy to oblige. The surf school, TropicSurf, was a class act; my daughter fell in love with the South African surf instructor on day one.

The kids booked lessons each day and had the time of their lives, due largely in part to the supportive and enthusiastic crew at TropicSurf. You could hear Gavin or Grant yelling an encouraging ‘woohooooo!’ to the kids at any given moment.

We spent eight nights at Mukul: surf-filled days, sunset cocktails on the sand, leisurely al fresco dinners, and early nights to rev up for the next day’s activities, or lack thereof in my case. In late March, there were almost cloudless skies, low humidity, and no mosquitoes.

Watching the sun dip over the westernmost cliff’s edge became a nightly ritual, racing to the beach bar to grab our cocktails, then joining the guests who all came out from their villas for the spectacular color show.

Each night’s sunset was unique, but nothing compared to our last night. It was as if the sky was hand painted with thick sweeping brushstrokes of magenta and orange; the palette made even more intense as the sun retreated slowly into the sea. The colors first reflected off the water and then evolved into deeper and richer shades until the stars finally came out.

Mukul Dining

Mukul has three restaurants: the open-air La Terraza, the Tres Ceibas Beach Club, and the formal tasting menu at La Mesa. While the food quality and menu choices exceeded our expectations fully, my only wish for Mukul was for them to have more dining options. The Beach Club had themed nights that were geared towards families with small kids, but we felt it was a little contrived. Italian night in Nicaragua? So we opted for the other two spots and threw in some room service and a seven-course tasting menu one evening at La Mesa.

A highlight was the Thursday night beach front, Nica Luau, which I had low expectations of after Italian night. Rectangular iron filigree lantern-lit trees along the beach and threw pretty dappled light all around. Waiter service (rather than the expected beach buffet) offered everything from grilled octopus, shrimp, and lobster to lamb chops and sirloin steak. We found ourselves spontaneously having dinner with another family we’d just met, our kids having surfed together with their son all week. The moon was just about full, adding more ethereal light to the evening. The glow of the water was nothing short of spectacular. It was one of our nicest evenings! And only a two-minute stumble down the beach to the villa afterward.

Mukul = McCool

Mukul is the kind of place that takes hold of all of your senses, from the taste of fresh shrimp ceviche, the scent of the ripe mango trees, the exfoliating sand underfoot, and, of course, the sweeping views of the sea. But I found myself paying particular attention to sound.

The chirping of the omnipresent magpie jays at breakfast, the fronds of the palm trees roaring in the gusty wind, the rustling and ultimate clashing of the countless hermit crabs under the shrubs at dusk, and never not hearing the lapping and crashing of the waves in the near distance. It is the acoustic soundscape of Mukul.

And while the secret of Mukul might already be out, it is enchanting nonetheless.

March 30, 2023
The end of the road in José Ignacio, Uruguay
Travel to Uruguay’s famous small town /

Depending on when you travel to Uruguay’s José Ignacio, you could either find a sleepy fishing village or a crowded jet setter’s playground. Chances are, you will love José Ignacio either way, as there is just so much to fall in love with. Well off the beaten path and fantastically difficult to get to, José Ignacio combines some of our favorite things in one place: untouched beaches, casual but fabulous food, and a chill vibe. Lunch at the rustic beach shack Parador La Huella, a Jose Ignacio see-and-be-seen scene, starts at 2pm and runs into dinner.

Travel to Uruguay For José Ignacio’s Under the Radar glam

Dirt roads with hand-painted signs add to the casual chic-ness of José Ignacio. But don’t be fooled, it is incredibly under-the-radar glam. Tiny pop-up boutiques along the beach roads are charming and then juxtaposed with a bright red Ferrari, which you soon realize isn’t unusual in José Ignacio. Imagine the Hamptons fifty years ago, as that starts to give you an idea of what to expect from this tiny strip of land, sandwiched between two beaches, a little over an hour from Montevideo.

As we decided to travel to Uruguay in the off-season, there were fewer Ferraris and more bicycles, and we were able to get around easily enough. Our resort, Bahia Vik, had bikes on hand for all of us, but we could have just as happily walked into town. The long vast beach line was so untouched and relatively tourist-free in March, perfect for kite flying as we soon discovered. There are so few people and so much to explore along the craggy coast.

At one point, my husband started to look for music to accompany his beach yoga session and quickly realized that he was already listening to the perfect playlist, the beach sounds were soft and soothing. No Spotify is necessary.

Travel to Uruguay For José Ignacio’s Estancia Vik

My daughter and I took advantage of Bahia Vik’s sister property, Estancia Vik, which is ten minutes away, for a half-day horseback ride. Horses are generally not my thing, but the riding was gentle, and the scenery majestic. Trotting along the expanse of rolling hills of the estancia for a few hours was incredibly peaceful and serene. It is surprising to see the landscape change from sand, dunes, and rock to pure forest in the span of a few miles.

We spent six nights in this little corner of Uruguay and could have stayed longer. It was a lifestyle I could see myself adopting. I imagine the high season is as crazy as the low season is sleepy. About a mile down the beach from us was the third Vik property, Playa Vik, which was severe and angular, and thoroughly modern in design.

The pool, with its dark blue water and underlighting of stars, jutted out towards the sea like a knife. I have never seen another pool like it. We ordered the house wine and sat on the pool’s edge for sunset more than once. Then, we retreated to the nearby firepit to get warm as the sun disappeared.

Travel to Uruguay For A touch of France in José Ignacio

One restaurant that kept drawing us back (until the waiter knew not only our wine choice but our kids’ names) was Almacen El Palmar. The menu is French, surprisingly. Part bakery, part market, part outdoor garden, it is intriguing mostly because of how unassuming it looks.

A hand-painted group of signs greets you on the path, pointing you toward Peru, Spain, and Japan. The France sign points you to the front door. It looks so low-key you might not expect anything from the food. We loved the low-buzzy atmosphere (and the food!) so much that we went back three times. An unusual move for a family that prides itself on never doing the same thing twice.

While there was much to do in and around José Ignacio, such as horseback riding, olive oil tastings, and touring nearby Punta del Este, we realized the most beautiful thing about José Ignacio was just settling into it and letting go.

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Travel to Uruguay For A Taste Of Tannat

Tannat is the bold, savory, spicy red grape that has put Uruguayan wines on the map. Bodega Garzón is a perfectly modern, slick, 85-million-dollar property from which to taste it. Uruguay has much to offer oenophiles the world over. Lovingly called the Tuscany of Uruguay, wine lovers travel to Uruguay to experience the unique wines and admire the rolling hills and hectares of vines.

Travel to Uruguay

Travel to Uruguay for the wine, the beaches, the beach shacks, and the remote hotels. Stay for the vibe and the scenery. José Ignacio’s under-the-radar style is a breath of fresh air—miles from the expected. Time to get there before the secrets of José Ignacio are secrets no longer.

Check availability at Bahia Vik here!

Five reasons to get lost in José Ignacio, Uruguay:
- The starry-bottomed architectural and gravitational wonder of a pool at Playa Vik.
- Trying the Tannat, Uruguay’s star red grape.
- Sinking into a three-hour lunch at Parador La Huella…barefoot.
- The nightly fire pits at Bahia Vik and Play Vik will motivate you not only to have one more drink but to maybe engage in conversations with strangers.
- Opening the doors to Playa Vik around sunset, and being temporarily blinded by rays as you head out towards the pool. Remember that scene in Indiana Jones when the sun finally hits the staff in the right place to reveal the location of the ark? That kind of blinding light.
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March 1, 2023
Morgan’s Rock—an Ecolodge Hotel on the edge of the jungle

An ecolodge hotel in a sub-tropical Nicaraguan jungle isn’t for everyone. When I booked it, I wasn’t even sure it was for me. In my mind, ‘sub-tropical’ translated to ‘blindingly hot with no A/C.’ ‘Ecolodge’ meant remote and natural, which we all know is code for ‘no electricity and buggy.’ Ecolodge, I noted, was just one syllable shy of Econolodge.

At that time, the holidays were closing in fast. Halloween decorations dangled menacingly in Safeway. Toddlers wearing matching turkey PJs populated my Instagram feed. Christmas muzak filled the halls at Bloomingdale’s—daily reminders of upcoming chaos.

In other words, September.

I wondered how far away we could get, physically and mentally, once the last Christmas gift was unwrapped. An eco-lodge hotel sounded promising-ish.

Morgan’s Rock, here we come

An ecolodge in Nicaragua. A place where I can empty my accumulated holiday anxieties onto the beach and get reacquainted with an abstract concept called simplicity. A place where I can regain my far-sighted vision.

I’d like to sit still and watch cloud formations form. Or, spend an hour watching the sun dip below the ocean’s horizon and change the world into a kaleidoscope of colors. Appreciating simple things like these take time and age. At an eco-lodge in Nicaragua, I think, I’ll have both.

Admittedly, I don’t have a clue what an ecolodge hotel is really about. Only what I imagine it’s about. I do little to no research on our destination before switching my iPhone to airplane mode, adopting a fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants mindset to kick off the New Year.

And fly we did. Two flights and one shockingly small ‘charter’ plane ride over an active volcano later, we touch down on Nicaragua’s Emerald Coast—a grass-covered field surrounded by a forest. Several dozen howler monkeys greet us upon arrival. Yikes.

What is an ecolodge hotel, exactly?

Calling oneself an ecolodge these days is as easy as calling that 95lb Labradoodle in seat 32C a service pet. There are stark differences between a lodge being ‘green’ versus ‘eco.’ Ecolodges focus on minimizing the effects of tourism and the physical structure of lodging on the environment.

Ecolodges contribute to local communities, offer educational opportunities to guests, help preserve ecosystems, and promote conservation efforts. True eco-lodges are situated deep within pristine, natural environments and have minimal impact on the landscape.

In contrast, green lodges or hotels are usually found in more urban areas. Improvements and sustainability practices are added to an existing structure to become more eco-friendly. While green is good, eco is better—at least from an environmental POV.

Morgan’s Rock resides on a small, sheltered, mile-long crescent bay on the edge of a jungle. Its 15 bungalows and three villas are nestled near the beach on its 4,000 acres. Each villa or bungalow is intentionally positioned where the fewest amount of trees are removed to build them. That’s not an easy feat in a world where guests expect unobstructed 360-degree ocean views to accompany their freshly squeezed orange juice and avo toast.

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What’s the history of Morgan’s Rock?

Morgan’s Rock was built in 2004 by the Ponçon family. Agronomist Clément-Marie Ponçon was sent to Nicaragua in 1978 on assignment by the French government to advise on developing agriculture and agroforestry.

Clément stayed on in Nicaragua, eventually starting, among other endeavors, a coffee processing plant that encompasses nearly 40% of Nicaragua’s production. In 2004, he and his wife opened a five-star eco-lodge in Nicaragua, the first of its kind on 350 acres of tropical beachfront—Morgan’s Rock.

Aside from becoming an ecolodge long before an ecolodge was a thing, Morgan’s Rock is a working farm with an estuary and organic gardens. A visit to Morgan’s Rock allows for experiences not found at typical hotels. Like the opportunity to milk cows, harvest shrimp, take a guided jungle walk at night, or go on a sloth-spotting mission in the morning.

What is the property layout?

Steep, winding, hand-crafted wooden staircases take us through the jungle’s canopy. My calves complain as I make them climb what feels like the height of the Washington Monument multiple times a day. But along the way, the scenery masks the pain, from the micro to the macro. Vines strangle ancient ficus trees. Little lizards scurry between the rocks, and howler monkeys unleash their monstrous howls.

The jungle is overgrown, hilly, and filled with animals we can hear but rarely see. We cross a 100-ft suspension bridge with views to the Pacific en route to our bungalow. The wobbly bridge makes Morgan’s Rock feel like a Hollywood movie set. The theme song to Raiders of The Lost Ark is on a constant loop in my head because my husband insists on playing it every time we cross it—more than once, I consider throwing him off.

Morgan’s Rock has a large platform yoga deck with complimentary classes. The dining area is open-plan. It overlooks a small pool that overlooks the ever-empty beach that overlooks the sea. A separate private thatched dining loft is available for larger groups, as well as a full spa.

Permanent private beach huts with braided hammocks are dotted along the beach—far enough ashore so as not to be whisked away by high tide. A small food and drink hut is nearby, so we are never more than 20 feet from a Bloody Mary or a shrimp taco.

What’s an Ecolodge hotel bungalow like?

Bungalow #3 is an aerie—set high above the beach and made with local materials by local craftsmen—another important component of ecolodge accommodations. The walls facing the sea aren’t walls at all. They are floor-to-ceiling screens that offer the money shot of sinking sunsets and rising tides.

The bed placement is at the room’s highest point and maximizes the panoramic view. I don’t even have to leave it to be fully immersed in nature. Trilling, whistling, squawking, and chirping from the birds. Howling, from the monkeys.

Eco-lodge hotels like Morgan’s Rock use energy-efficient lighting and/or very little lighting overall. Solar panels and low-impact ‘natural’ A/C units allow us to sleep comfortably each night. Hallelujah! The interiors of the treehouses are designed to mimic the jungle with dark wooden tree-like posts and thatched pitched roofs.

The sound of the ocean lulls me to sleep at any given time of day, which makes the actual getting out of bed an issue. Thankfully, there is a pot of strong Nicaraguan coffee within arm’s reach. Eventually, I head to our deck to give the swinging day bed some attention before breakfast.

What’s the wildlife situation?

A big draw to staying at an ecolodge that preserves its natural surroundings in such a delicate way is the presence of animal life. More than once I equate our time in Nicaragua to a safari. From the simple indoor/outdoor treehouse accommodations to the immersion in wildlife.

On our first morning, a troop of howler monkeys passes through the area before 6am. The sun is not up yet, but everything else in the jungle most definitely is. I’m already acquainted with the howlers when they so warmly greeted us at the airstrip, or else I wouldn’t have left the bed.

Among the various noises howler monkeys make, none is more unique than the one that unfurls like a monster waking from the dead. Think White Walkers from Game of Thrones. Seriously, google ‘howler monkey sounds.’ I’ll wait. Then imagine it times ten. You wouldn’t leave the bed either.

There are many interesting species of wildlife in this part of Nicaragua. A list of what we see and don’t see follows. Fun fact: the scorpions and tarantulas here aren’t deadly. As if that’s comforting…

Howler Monkey: Saw some, heard dozens.

Capuchin Monkey: None.

Spider Monkey: One.

Scorpions: None.

Tarantula: One.

Snake: One.

Lizards: Many.

Crabs: It’s the beach, duh.

Sea Turtles: None. Wrong season.

Sloths: Sadly, none.

Jaguar: None.

Birds: White-Throated Magpie Jay, Rufous Tailed Hummingbirds, Crested Caracaras, among others. Still with me? No more birds, I promise.

Check Availability for Morgan’s Rock here

What do you do at an Ecolodge hotel?

The beauty of an ecolodge visit goes well beyond a stunning natural setting. In the case of Morgan’s Rock, we decide to find a balance between eco-tourism activities and more relaxing ones. The Emerald Coast is well known for surfing, and my husband and son surf most mornings at a nearby beach called Maderas.

Those mornings, I do pilates on our deck after I’ve spent a sufficient amount of time lounging in the regular bed and swinging on the daybed. The view from our room is better than any other spot on the property, and has coffee. I have no motivation to leave it.

Daniel and I mountain bike. I take a guided bird-watching walk (which is more of a bird-listening walk.) Daniel and Chase boogie-board. I read in the hammock. We SUP and kayak in the estuary. Chase convinces me there are crocs below the water’s surface, which ruins my experience. It enhances his. No one rides horses.

What’s the best thing about Morgan’s Rock?

The sunsets are hands down the prettiest and most dramatic I’ve ever seen. After sunset viewing, my second favorite activity is the farm visit. It has the potential to be cheesy. It isn’t. A group of us pile into a van and drive ten minutes to the working farm on the property. As we walk towards the cows, I notice a woman making corn tortillas and a table set for ten. I’m hungry—and happy.

The mama cow won’t stand up for us to milk her, so they bring her calf to nurse. That clever trick gets her moving. After milking the cow, a first for me, we gather eggs. We hold cute baby chicks in our hands, and I learn the hard way that they risk being pecked to death if accidentally dropped. While no chicks die that day, it’s chicken-coop chaos for a very long minute.

Soon after the chick incident, we make tortillas. Using the milk we squeezed and the eggs we collected, we are treated to a traditional Nicaraguan breakfast, including Gallo Pinto. Nicknamed Spotted Rooster due to its colors, Gallo Pinto is a flavorful mix of beans, rice, peppers, cilantro, and onions. Fresh coffee, passionfruit juice, and convivial chit-chat complete the morning. I’m ready for my book and a hammock.

What’s the food and service like at Morgan’s Rock?

The food at Morgan’s Rock is simple and basic, as one would expect from a remote ecolodge that sources most of its ingredients. I remind myself that I’m craving simplicity—it’s the reason I’m here. The best dishes are seafood-based. My lobster dinner has a whopping four lobster tails, grilled beautifully with just the right amount of butter. The thatched, open-air dining space is breezy and ambient with clinking glasses that amplify the festive mood.

Beach lunches are tacos, ceviche, salads, and grilled skewers. Early on, I discover from another guest that we could order off-menu. Clearly, Americans make up most of the clientele here. I google traditional Nicaraguan dishes like Indio Viejo and ask if they can accommodate. Of course, they can. Morgan’s Rock could certainly place more faith in American tastebuds and offer more traditional Nicaraguan options. Those dishes were the best.

The service is attentive, genuine, warm, and responsive. With so many steps at the property, it is truly amazing that our requests are handled so promptly. The staff is in excellent physical shape for obvious reasons.

That said, there are many times when things get lost in translation. These times mainly have to do with food. Ordering a sirloin but getting a rib-eye. Asking for garlic shrimp and receiving lobster. If you are a natural-born complainer, this isn’t the place for you. If you can roll with misunderstandings from a well-meaning and always-smiling staff, then you are sure to love your visit.

HNY from an Ecolodge in the jungle

A small sailboat crosses the bay on the distant horizon. Its paperwhite sail pierces the blue sky. My far-sighted vision is restored. I listen to the chorus of the jungle and the waves crashing against the desolate white sand beach in front of me. It’s New Year’s Day. I’m content.

There’s no pillow menu at Morgan’s Rock. There’s no reserve wine list and no signature scent. There are no TVs or phones. There are thousands of steps, harmless critters, and not much to do after dark. Rustic luxury here really means rustic—and not in the Blackberry Mountain way. This is a true ecolodge hotel—one of the first of its kind.

There are spectacular, unfiltered, and unobstructed sunsets. And wildlife sounds unlike any I hear at home. There is excellent coffee. Options for adrenaline junkies to move and options for the sedentary to stay still. There’s a farm with cows, baby chicks, and fancy roosters.

An ecolodge in a sub-tropical Nicaraguan jungle isn’t for everyone. How many readers did I lose at ‘critters?’ Adventure is all the rage. So are experiences. And eco-lodges. I couldn’t have imagined a better way to start the year. With a clear head, a beach view, and a heavy dose of simplicity.

Happy New Year.

Check availability at Morgan’s Rock here

January 7, 2023
5 Top 5 Travel Wish Lists: Where To Go Right Now

I’m at Black Coffee, sitting on a cushy, green leather banquette—my usual spot. On my right are two well-heeled Washingtonians talking about Koks, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in, wait for it—the Faroe Islands. I can’t contain my excitement! I know Koks–it’s on my travel wish list! How in the world do they know about Koks? I’m dying to ask. Then reconsider.

That would be weird.

My excitement manifests physically. It’s like I’ve had six espresso shots in as many minutes. I’m quite literally bouncing off the banquette. The women leave rather suddenly. I wonder if my bouncing has something to do with it.

What’s the point?

Let me back up a few hours—to 8am in my kitchen. I settle into a swivel chair with an oat milk cappuccino. I swirl, twirl, and sip while playing Worlde, Quordle, and Spelling Bee. This perky combination of caffeine and wordplay ignites my brain on even the dreariest DC mornings.

That the outcome of these games determines my mood is an overstatement. But I’d be lying if I said the days I get Wordle-in-two doesn’t feel good. Combine that with ‘genius’ status on Spelling Bee and a winning Quordle, and it’s the trifecta of morning happiness. Sometimes I go right back to bed, exhausted from having overachieved so early in the day.

I’ve devoted a paragraph to my New York Times-centric morning routine for good reason. ‘Geez, get to the point already!’, you’re thinking. The point is, while most mornings are uneventful and dominated by a trio of silly brainteasers, some days I overhear a pair of chatty women in a coffee shop, and my brain kicks into overdrive.

Travel talk gives me a jolt as powerful as those six shots of espresso. It fuels me in a way that can only be described in multiple coffee-related metaphors. As illustrated by my encounter at Black Coffee, being a participant in the conversation is irrelevant.

Travel Wish Lists

My travel wish list has been curated from multiple trustworthy sources. Sources like Condé Nast Traveler’s ‘Gold List’, Travel+Leisure’s ‘It List’, Forbes Travel Guide’s Star Award Winners, and San Pellegrino’s ‘World’s Best List’. And increasingly more often from the most-addictive travel resource ever—Instagram. My wish list is always at hand, by which I mean is on my phone, which is always in my hand.

‘But, where to begin?’ My travel wish list is a lengthy, unorganized account of hotels, lodges, countries, cities, ranches, and restaurants. An inventory of adventures, experiences, and expeditions. Describing them all would far exceed my typical 2500-word count.

I pause to think. (This pause lasts a week). My brain, only moments ago on a Quorldle high, is now creatively stuck. I’m swimming in mental cement.

Aha! I’ll list my top five travel wish lists. Not only will it be entertaining to write, but it will also force me to organize this ongoing, unsystematic list that has been vexing me for years.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Wish List v. Lust List

Years ago, I created an entry in my ‘Notes’ app called, ‘Travel Lust’. For the sake of SEO, I’m renaming it Travel Wish List. If you think the words Travel Wish List are being overused already, it’s not by accident. Anyone who’s had experience with Search Engine Optimization will understand why. And, I certainly don’t want this post to rank for ‘lust’. That’s someone else’s blog, I mean, website.

My top five travel wish lists in five categories follow. Hotels and Resorts, Lodges and Retreats, Experiences, Countries, and Culinary Adventures. One winner and four other winners per category. There are no losers, it’s a wish list remember.

This is going to be fun, and possibly very expensive—for all of us.

Want all 5 wish lists in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

PC: Hotel Esencia

My Travel Wish List: 5 / Hotels and Resorts

Wish List Winner: Hotel Esencia, Xpu-Ha, Mexico

Last month, a friend sent me an article about Hotel Esencia, in Mexico. After reading it, I sent it to my husband Daniel, explaining my deep need to go there. He now deeply dislikes her.

This happens often, much to my husband’s chagrin. Many of these seemingly harmless emails turn into future three-night, non-refundable deposits. My list is longer than I have time or money to accomplish. But please, keep sending. Daniel will need to postpone retirement for a few more years. I’m sure he’s ok with that.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Esencia sky-rocketed to the top of my travel wish list. Conceptualized by a Hollywood producer and entrepreneur, the hotel’s 45 rooms and suites, and three uber-sophisticated villas were once the private hideaway of Italian duchess, Rosa de Ferrari. Lucky duchess.

Quiet, unassuming, and refined luxury abounds. Located between Tulum and Cancún, Esencia’s home-away-from-home vibe is intentional (that is, if your home is beachside, flanked by jungles, and includes sea turtle nesting grounds).

Morning treats are delivered to rooms through secret cubby holes. That’s pretty irresistible. I imagine enjoying warm brioches and flaky croissants while lounging in my pjs. The bold, bright tropical decor adds to the hotel’s glamour. It reminds me of Mondrian, the Dutch painter who rejected perceived reality and stripped form down to its most basic elements. Esencia’s palette is a refreshing change from most Mexican resorts which rely heavily on traditional colors and rustic furnishings.

The yoga loft is insta-perfect, with ecru, crocheted hammocks hanging below an open-air wooden platform. My savasana would surely last hours, which would put me at risk of missing afternoon cocktails. I’d best leave the chaturangas to Daniel.

PC: Hotel Esencia

USP (Unique Selling Point):

Esencia’s two-story, Rooftop Wellness Suite is the ultimate in modern Mayan jungle luxury. With a full-sized pool, multiple terraces, and a private fitness studio (including a Peloton bike and The Mirror), I see no compelling reason to leave it. As an aside, I see no compelling reason for a private fitness studio, either. I’m on holiday. I’ll punish myself with The Mirror when I get home, thank you.

This premiere suite acts as a ‘hotel within a hotel’ at this sweeping 50-acre estate. So, if you’d like to go on a resort holiday without having to see another soul, Hotel Esencia is the place for you. It’s most definitely the place for me.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Note: August 26, 2022. As I place the finishing touches on this post, Forbes Travel Guide has just announced today that Hotel Esencia earned its coveted five-star award for 2022. Well deserved Esencia, but now I’ll never be able to get a reservation. (See how I’m able to be both topical and tropical at the same time here?)

Four other winners:

Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur, California

Hacienda AltaGracia, Costa Rica

San Domenico Palace, Taormina, Italy

One&Only Moonlight Basin, Montana (Opening 2024)

Why did these make the list?

Each of these hotels and brands is not only top of its class in terms of service and accommodations but also takes style and artistry to innovative levels.

Swoon over the organic architecture and natural coastal beauty at Post Ranch Inn. Spot the elusive Quetzal in Costa Rica at Hacienda AltaGracia. Prepare to get lost in the Montana wilderness, at One&Only’s first US-based resort. The Four Seasons’ San Domenico Palace in Italy is a restored 14th-century convent with views of Mount Etna. Enough said.

Click the links at your own risk. Yes, they are expensive. Whoever said, ‘you can’t take it with you,’ is my soul mate.

PC: Islas Secas

My Travel Wish List: 4 / Lodges and Retreats

Wish List Winner: Islas Secas, Panama

I’m reluctant to write about Islas Secas. I don’t want you to know about it. Yes, that’s how selfish I am. That I’d rather not write about a hot, new destination for fear that you get there before I do is indefensible.

I’d like to go to Panama before every else has it on their radar. Ten years ago we told friends we were headed to Costa Rica. We may as well have said we were taking the kids to North Korea on a beach holiday. Look at Costa Rica now—the epicenter of spring break family travel.

As is evident by its name, Islas Secas is an island. An archipelago, to be more clear, comprised of 14 volcanic islands off the Pacific coast of the country. With iconographic names like Isla Barracuda, Isla Iguana, and Isla Coco, I imagine days snorkeling beside shiny, snake-like fish, photographing colorful reptiles, and drinking from oversized coconuts. Over-caffeinated yet again, my imagination runs wild.

Panamanian design is everywhere; light, breezy tactile fabrics, plantation shutters, and thatched rooftops. The four-bedroom Casita Grande looks especially captivating. I daydream about a milestone birthday there. It could be mine, a friend’s, or a neighbor’s. I’m not going to be picky.

PC: Islas Secas

USP:

The website affirms Islas Secas’ devotion to sustainable and nature-driven tourism. It tempts me with stats like 750 species of fish, 80 species of birds, and humpback whale-watching.

When I read the website, I almost can’t bear it. I bounce again, the universal sign for overexcitement.

I think you should go. And I think you should take me with you.

Four other winners:

Taylor River Lodge, Colorado

Bishop’s Lodge, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Kachi Lodge, Bolivia

Mashpi Lodge, Ecuador

Why did these make the list?

It’s a secret to no one who keeps up with luxury and adventure retreats that these four make the list. Known for tailor-made, one-of-a-kind experiences, Eleven Experience owns 13 remote properties around the world. Its Colorado-based Taylor River Lodge was once a local fishing and tackle shop before it became an off-the-grid, eight-cabin river retreat.

Auberge-owned Bishop’s Lodge in Santa Fe embraces the rich mountain colors of New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo range. Each room, with woven Navajo rugs and textiles, is a sanctuary unto its own.

Kachi or Mashpi? Both/and, please. This duo of South American lodges is equally breathtaking. Mashpi Lodge is set deep in the Chocó-Andean Cloud Forest. No, I didn’t make that up. Conversely, Kachi Lodge sits at the foot of the Tunupa Volcano, and atop Bolivia’s famed Uyuni Salt Flats. Cloud Forest or Salt Flat? How to choose? I’ll repeat. Both/and.

Want all 5 winners in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

My Travel Wish List: 3 / Travel Experiences

Wish List Winner: Explore the Galápagos Islands via Pikaia Lodge

I must have a thing for archipelagos because here I am adding yet another to my list. Archipelagos are obviously all the rage.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

One thousand kilometers off of the Ecuadorian coast lies 19 islands of marine wonders—the Galápagos Islands. They are often referred to as a ‘unique living museum of evolution’. If that isn’t a tantalizing travel soundbite, I don’t know what is.

That the Galápagos Islands’ wildlife lacks natural predators is pretty well-known. This is partly due to the islands’ volcanic origin and extreme remoteness. I’d love to swim with sea lions, dolphins, and giant tortoises. I want to admire exotic birds and uncover species that don’t exist anywhere else in the world. The animals are approachable and tame (and I hear they love the camera). Sign me up.

USP:

Pikaia Lodge’s prime access to this extraordinary part of the world is why it pairs so organically with a Galápagos Island adventure. Pikaia Lodge is a luxury eco-adventure property with cutting-edge architecture and a strong environmentally conscious mindset. Its 14 rooms sit 450 meters above sea level on the edge of an extinct volcano. I’ve always wanted to stay on the edge of an extinct volcano, (rather than an active one), naturally.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

Pikaia Lodge is entirely carbon-neutral and is made up of stone, lava, glass, and steel. This striking architectural combination doesn’t attempt to steal the limelight from the landscape. It looms high over Santa Cruz Island as if it too is leisurely observing the wonders of the Galápagos.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

Four other winners:

Hike Acadia National Park, Maine

Vineyard stay in Bordeaux

Photography Safari in Namibia

Polar Expedition to Antarctica

Why did these make the list?

Hiking at Acadia National Park complements my passion for photographing panoramic views. A vineyard stay in Bordeaux embraces my obsession with cabernets, berets, and soufflés. (I don’t actually like berets, but I’ll do anything for cadence). My love of wildlife would be taken to extremes in Antarctica and Africa.

Narrowing down my top five travel experiences is a challenge. Each time I think I have a final list, another idea emerges. It’s like whack-a-mole in my head. That these five experiences align with my favorite activities is no surprise. What is a surprise is how well these wish lists are acting as birthday, anniversary, and Christmas gift lists, too! I’m nothing if not efficient.

PC: Dylan Shaw, Unsplash

My Travel Wish List: 2 / Countries

Wish List Winner: The Faroe Islands

Do you know where the Faroe Islands are? Despite my current obsession with this self-governing nation, I didn’t know exactly where they were either. I’ve since learned this archipelago of 18 mountainous islands (yes, another archipelago!) is located halfway between Scotland and Iceland and is named after sheep. I love sheep! Now, I want to go there more than ever.

PC: Marc Zimmer, Unsplash

Turf-roofed houses are nurtured by the year-round rainy climate. Even your year-round rain isn’t enough to deter me, Faroe Islands. And I hate getting wet.

PC: Lynn Fae, Unsplash

The hamlets of the Faroe Islands are the stuff of fairy tales. Frodo would feel at home in the shire-like countryside. Lakes, lagoons, and lighthouses are all virtually untouched by tourism. At least for the moment. That I’d like to get there before everyone else reinforces just how selfish I am.

Four other winners:

Panama

Bolivia

Ecuador

Namibia

Why did these make the list?

If you’ve read this far, it’s clear why these countries round out this travel wish list. They each have resorts, hotels, retreats, or experiences I would love to visit or do one day. They are also countries not quite on the mainstream travel radar.

PC: Beinta á Torskilsheyggi

My Travel Wish List: 1 / Culinary Adventures

Wish List Winner: Koks, The Faroe Islands

What a coincidence! If you believe in coincidences, that is. The restaurant at the top of my culinary wish list is located at the top of my country wish list—the Faroe Islands. A visit there would be a travel wish list twofer. I wonder if I’ve lost Daniel by now?

Chef Poul Andrias Ziska is the culinary creator-in-chief behind Koks (which since my morning at Black Coffee, I learn has been temporarily relocated to Greenland). That’s ok, I’m in no rush. That he uses mainly Faroese ingredients in his Michelin-starred dishes compels me to open up another tab and find out exactly what those ingredients are.

PC: Claes Bech-Poulsen

Being a set of islands should be a significant clue. However, beyond fish and seafood, the Faroese diet consists of organic lamb, fermented meat, and root vegetables like kohlrabi, turnips, and rhubarb. I wonder if the two ladies at Black Coffee are aware of this?

Koks is known as the ‘world’s most remote foodie destination.’ Its imaginative dishes follow the seasons and its architecture follows the traditional Nordic style. I will follow Koks anywhere, even to Greenland, if I have to.

Left, PC: Claes Bech-Poulsen Right, PC: Beinta á Torskilsheyggi

Four other winners:

Single Thread, Healdsburg, California

The Three Chimneys, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Restaurant La Chassagnette, Provence, France

été, Tokyo

Why did these make the list?

Dine in the gardens of Arles-based, Michelin-starred La Chassagnette or at farm-inspired micro-seasonal Single Thread in Healdsburg, California. Their spectacular settings match their equally spectacular culinary offerings.

With no sign and one table, Restaurant été, run by female chef Natsuko Shoji, is one of the most coveted reservations in Tokyo. Her French-Japanese-inspired menu is considered flawless, as is her sense of style and design.

Finally, Three Chimneys marks yet another impossible-to-reach-but-worth-the-effort restaurant. It’s hidden on the dramatic shores of Loch Dunvegan on the Isle of Skye. The Nordic-Scottish epicurean experience can only be topped with a night’s stay at adjoining House-Over-By. Those Scots are nothing if not literal.

Want all 5 wish list winners in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

Aspiration v. inspiration

On the surface, these lists seem superficial. ‘I want to go here. Eat there. Do this.’ I dig deeper into the ‘why’ and notice it’s the experiences I crave. Would I like those experiences to be in or near lovely places, at nice hotels, and with extraordinary food? Why, yes I would

There are many ways to experience cultures, countries, and food. Less expensive ways and more authentic ways, no doubt. This is my wish list so I get to choose the way I want to explore the world. You get to choose yours.

My lists are both aspirational and inspirational. Reading about them makes me happy. Sharing them with you makes me happier (earlier selfishness aside). Going to them would make me ecstatic.

Go big or stay home

My daily life in Washington DC revolves around a one-mile radius. I go to Black Coffee for golden lattes, Millie’s for overpriced salads, CVS to channel inner patience, and Battery Kemble Park to walk my labs. I like my routine, it centers me.

Sometimes inspiration strikes, whether by eavesdropping at Safeway or reading the Sunday Style section of the New York Times. I write lists. Sometimes those lists lead to trips where I leave my DC bubble and discover a far-flung corner of the globe. Sometimes they gather dust up there on the cloud.

But, the days I get Wordle-in-two? Watch out world, anything can happen.

Click here. Be the first to know where I’m going next.

Author’s Note: I am grateful to the hotels, resorts, restaurants, and lodges who kindly gave me high-res photos for use in this post. I’m also using Unsplash for the first time, and praise the photographers who are giving away their gorgeous photos for free. Typically, I only feature my own photos. But alas, if I had my own pictures of these stunning places, they wouldn’t be on my wish list.

If you ever want to get in touch, ask a question, or discuss a way to partner, please email me at [email protected].

April 26, 2022
The Vines, Mendoza—Culinary Highlights and Amazing Adventures

Mendoza, Argentina /

Francis Mallmann may be one of the top chefs in the Americas, but as of January 2016, we had never heard of him. That is, until one snowy night at home we saw his episode of the Netflix docu-series, Chef’s Table. Each episode highlights a chef from around the world, and the footage and scenery intertwined with the food can be mesmerizing, especially if you watch it when you are hungry!

Part of what makes Mallmann unique is his use of cooking on open flames, whether that be above ground or underground, and never in an expected way.

So when the show zeroed in on his Argentine restaurant in the Uco Valley of Mendoza, Siete Fuegos (literally Seven Fires), which is in a resort called The Vines, nestled at the base of the Andes mountains, we headed straight for the computer and booked on the spot. A spontaneous and slightly alcohol-induced move, no doubt. From there, we built our two-week spring break holiday and didn’t look back.

Mendoza’s Top Winery/Luxury Resort

The Vines is a spectacular find. Set, as you’d imagine, around an expanse of vineyards, it is part winery and part luxury resort. You can take the complimentary bikes and explore the 1500 hectares of private vines, where you will inevitably stumble upon the free-standing, all-glass gym and rock climbing wall that rises above the grapes so that you have an unobstructed view of the Andes while you work out.

The villas at The Vines are beautifully decorated, I wanted to move in and stay there, it felt like a home, not a hotel. Stone hot tub, rooftop seating, complimentary iPads and Apple TV for entertainment, all the creature comforts of home, nestled along a path of desert-like gardens, it far exceeded our expectations.

The Siete Fuegos Experience at The Vines

We dined at Siete Fuegos more than once, the main restaurant at the resort. True to Argentine custom, dinners were served quite late (with service being much slower and leisurely than we were used to) and the Malbec flowed generously and at all hours. One night we left the kids behind and had one of the Mallmann’s Seven Fire dining experiences.

Set outside, yet within the open kitchen, and surrounded by the seven different ‘fires’, a table for 30 was set up for a long Argentine communal meal. As the night went on, and the courses came out, the decibel level got higher and higher.

Guests from Norway, Finland, Brazil, and Connecticut—everyone with a different story about how they found themselves here. The salmon had been baked in a cast iron skillet for hours and within a three-inch crust of salt. We had goat that had been strung up to a cage with an open bonfire-style fire surrounding it. It was a culinary adventure with a chef we had all traveled far and wide to see. No one was disappointed, it was a magical dinner experience.

Bodegas and Surprises in Mendoza

We were told we couldn’t leave Mendoza without lunch and a winery tour at Bodega La Azul. Due to an unexpected glitch, we found ourselves without a lunch reservation as planned. However, the owner said he would still happily take us on a tour of his boutique winery.

Falling into the category of ‘sometimes things happen for a reason’, we let nature take its course, although truth be told I was envious of all the guests being seated on the patio as we walked past. Maybe he saw my disappointment because he then told us about a family he knew that was opening a restaurant nearby out of their home. It sounded intriguing, so we got the address, took a leap of faith, and headed into the foothills to find El Paisano.

It was far from a restaurant; it was a home, but we ate one of the most authentic meals we could have hoped for, all eight traditional courses prepared and served by five members of a lovely Argentine family. We sat at a table on the banks of a freshwater stream, the kids found some fishing poles and tried their luck. Daniel and I sat with a bottle of wine and wondered how we ended up here. Oh, and the wine? La Azul, of course.

Check the Availability of The Vines Here!

Note: I may receive a small fee for affiliate links above but rest assured I only highlight places and products I recommend.

March 5, 2021

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