I am Lost and Found

Category: Feast

The Best Of Mérida: Mexico’s Newest Hot Spot

“Where’s Mérida?” you wonder, and “Why should I go there?” I’m happy you asked. Mérida, Mexico, is the capital city of the Yucatán State. It’s simple luxuries fly under the radar in terms of typical Mexican tourist destinations—more rustic, fewer bells, fewer whistles, and friendlier on the wallet. Long may that last. Recently, I spent three days uncovering the best of Mérida, Mexico, old school style with a pen and paper. Three days exploring boutiques, boutique hotels, hidden watering holes, and airy rooftop bars.

Was it enough? Not by a hot Mexican mile.

My iPhone lights up. ‘Mérida is 🔥’ It’s Amy, one of my oldest and closest friends. Is she reporting the weather or preparing me for the fabulousness of Mérida? As of two weeks ago, I couldn’t have found Mérida, or the Yucatán, on a map if you gave me a million pesos.

Yet here I am, booking flights on one computer tab and mapping it out on another. This isn’t me; I don’t fly by the seat of my pants. I get to the airport at least two hours before my scheduled departure time and book restaurants a month out. I prepare for Christmas in August. Planning is my thing.

Until it isn’t.

Why Mérida, Mexico?

Amy and her husband decide to live in Mérida, Mexico, for a month, testing a work-from-anywhere model they hope to repeat if successful. Mérida is the capital of the Yucatán State and is quickly becoming one of the most sought-after destinations in Mexico.

They offer their extra bedroom and plunge pool as an incentive to visit. Amy says she’s already scouted out the best of Mérida, Mexico—no need to research. I’m sold on the plunge pool.

The Best of Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico

Despite the gaping holes in my knowledge about the location, the language, and nearly everything about Mérida, I can’t wait to get there. My daughter, Ella, seems happy, too. But it’s hard to tell, as her happy face, annoyed face, and indifferent face look so much alike. As ever, I’m optimistic.

Mérida, here we come!

My ‘Best of Mérida’ shortlist follows, fueled by Amy’s insider knowledge and advanced planning. You’d be surprised by what you can experience in three days unless you know Amy. Then you wouldn’t be surprised at all. If I’m a travel planner, Amy’s the Marie Kondo of travel planning. She had our life-changing, magical Mérida itinerary tidied up before I could say muchas gracias.

When our plane touches down, I know one thing for sure. Amy’s right, Mérida is hot.

Mi casa es su casa, in Mérida

We grab a taxi and head out. Crumbling concrete casas begging to be brought back to life reside next to those lovingly restored. Some with fresh coats of pastel-colored paint, flickering colonial-era lanterns, and glossy wooden doors. They’ve been returned to their original glory. This juxtaposition of old and new is what makes Mérida especially captivating.

Time has taken its toll on the buildings’ bones, not their souls. I imagine the conquistadors of centuries past roaming these very streets. Its history is palpable. Each turned corner reveals a new palette of watery rainbow-washed colors, glimpses of hidden courtyards, taquerias, and colorful plazas.

The city streets are laid out in a series of perfect right angles. A topographical chessboard of sorts. This layout makes the city accessible to even the most geographically stunted (myself included).

Their Airbnb is on the edge of the historic old town and has a seafoam green facade with bright white trim and a cerulean blue door. A light breeze takes the edge off the midday heat, and I hear a woman’s voice singing scales from above. Her undulating notes escape a top-floor window like liberated butterflies.

I quickly discover that music, in one form or another, is woven into the city’s DNA. I’ve only been here 18 minutes, but I know I will love it. 72 hours. The clock is ticking.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Hotels

I research hotels anyway, for fun. Yes, I think that’s fun. One day, when I bring my husband here, I’ll know exactly where to stay. The planner in me makes a fleeting appearance. A Google search combined with a chance to wander the city in real-time provides a shortlist of possibilities for my next trip to Mérida. Or possibly yours.

Coqui Coqui Residences

The five Yucatán-based residences of eternally boutique-chic Coqui Coqui Residences & Spa balance old-world charm with modern amenities. I fantasize about hopping from one swoon-worthy locale to the next.

Each residence is part chic hotel and part perfumery, with a spritz of tropical glamour. The Mérida location, built in 1903, is an ivory townhouse on a quiet street. It has only one room! I’m dying to see it!

The saleswoman says it’s occupied. That it’s always occupied, she notes my disappointment yet says the room has not one but two freestanding bathtubs. The epitome of Belle Epoque style, it also has a private rooftop pool and is accessed via a staircase, so elegant that Architectural Digest could devote an entire spread to it.

I drown my sorrows by devouring several of Coqui Coqui’s decadent chocolates and testing their perfumes. It’s tough to choose a favorite among the Yucatán-inspired fragrances. Should my new signature scent lean towards earthy tobacco or Hawaiian Tropic circa 1985? I choose coconut. This should be the toughest decision I make all day.

Coqui Coqui’s richly textured ochre-colored walls and black and white marble floors are devastatingly photogenic. Crystal chandeliers drip from double-height ceilings. Velvet poofs, curtains, and gilded, golden-framed mirrors convey an ultra-chic opulence. I slowly meander around this aromatic sanctuary, taking it all in.

Rosas y Xocolate

Rosas y Xocolate is a duo of the pinkest pink French mansions transformed into a boutique hotel that receives accolades for its style and service, not to mention an award-winning restaurant.

I step inside to oooh, ahhhh, and recalibrate my body temperature. Did I mention Merida is hot? The tranquil entry is a respite from the buzzy, pedestrian-filled Paseo de Montejo. I continue to meander, which is starting to wear on Ella. She is not a meanderer. Is that her annoyed face or hangry face? I look the other way.

The interior is dark and moody, a break from the dizzying bright blue skies outside. It’s like walking into a warm chocolate cookie. Or, maybe I’m hungry, too. I notice a wall of wine, oversized modern art displayed on a nearby easel, and a sunny outdoor patio for drinks. Rosas y Xocolate has my essentials covered.

Each of the 17 rooms is unique, featuring handmade chocolate soaps. Now that’s a hotel product I’d love to steal, I mean buy. Splashes of the hotel’s signature shade of rose abound, whether as an accent wall, a throw pillow, or actual blossoms. Bravo, Rosas y Xocolate.

Hotel Sevilla

Located in the oldest part of historic Mérida, just one block from the main square, sits Hotel Sevilla. A restored 19th-century hotel, old and new come together in this magical, spacious, hidden jewel with gardens, sun-drenched patios, and beautiful rooms. This compact boutique hotel oozes Colonial charm, adding a touch of industrial drama to its coveted city location.

Get My Free Mérida Hot Sheet—Just Click!

Hotel Cigno

A 19th-century mansion turned boutique hotel, this seven-room property on the outskirts of town has a delicate combination of traditional glamour and modern flourishes. Its azul-painted facade is as welcoming as the cenotes themselves. Hotel Cigno offers excursions and dining experiences to make any gringo feel at home in Mérida. The rooms are reasonably priced, with a splash of old and new Mexican design and some with private plunge pools to escape the heat.

Check Hotel Cigno availability here

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Boutiques and Babkas

Amy and John have been in Mérida, Mexico, for three weeks when Ella and I arrive. This allows them to narrow down the shops and boutiques worth visiting during our limited time.

The following day, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at home. Amy presents an array of flaky croissants, including tiramisu, almond-topped, and knotted babkas from Soco, a local artisanal bakery. Soco’s plumped-up pastries could easily compete with boulangeries in Paris.

Its derelict hole-in-the-wall style belies the doughy gems inside. I visit three times in as many days, pretending that Mexican calories don’t count. Or rather, French-inspired, Mexican-made calories don’t count. You get the idea.

PC: Ella Edwards

Caracol Púrapura, Mérida

Mexican folk art, handmade jewelry, and ceramics are just a few of the treasures to be unearthed at the intersection of Calles 60 and 53. Caracol Púrapura feels more like a museum than a series of local boutiques. Larger-than-life sculptures fill the cavernous space.

Vessels turned from Oaxacan black clay and Huichol beaded bracelets made by Wixárica artisans are displayed alongside paintings, handbags, and intricately designed pottery. These handicrafts preserve the traditions of Mexico while simultaneously supporting the local artists.

Taller Maya, Mérida

After more meandering, I pronounce Taller Maya as my favorite boutique. Taller Maya could live as comfortably on Spring Street in Soho as in Mérida. The clean, spare, brightly lit space has unusually high ceilings and an overall breezy feel. I stroll around the store several times, seeing something new and beautiful with each lap.

Solid marble pedestal bowls, modern wooden furniture, luminous lamps, and hand-woven hammocks only begin to describe the highly curated wares at Taller Maya. I covet it all, down to the handwoven tortilla warmers. A study in neutrals and as welcoming as a Tribeca loft. I would have moved in immediately had they offered.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Sights

Mérida feels real. Perhaps this is the most luxurious thing about it. When so many places in Mexico are tourist-focused to the point of being inauthentic, Mérida nails it without effort. Oh, and it’s incredibly affordable, at least for now.

First time in Mérida? Click here for an entertaining self-guided walking tour and discover the best of the city!

Plaza Grande, Mérida

We explore the city from the main square, Plaza Grande. Its prismatic energy echoes the vibrant buildings and lush grassy knolls. It’s also the home to the magnificent Cathédral of Mérida.

Constructed from Mayan ruins, the Cathédral of Mérida, aka San Ildefonso Cathédral, sits on the east side of Plaza Grande. It’s an imposing 16th-century backdrop to the lively promenades, street vendors, and historical buildings.

But, as far as I’m concerned, the multicolored city sign at Plaza Grande is the end-all-be-all tourist attraction. It is the best tourist trap/photo op in Mérida, without question. Even Ella liked it.

‘Welcome to Mérida!’, it shouts, in all colors of the rainbow, ‘We’re so happy you’re here!’. I stopped to take a photograph just as a real-life rainbow appeared behind it. I kid you not. Photo evidence above.

Paseo Montejo, Mérida

On Sundays, the Paseo Montejo, Mérida’s wide, tree-lined street, is closed to pedestrians and cyclists only. Locals and tourists stroll the pavement, listen to music, dance, walk dogs, and brunch on verandas. Inspired by the Champs-Élysées and dotted with palatial Beaux-Arts homes, it’s a way to harness the city’s energy while burning off babka-sized calories.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Cuisine

Local Mayan, Caribbean, Spanish, North African, and Middle Eastern cultures influence Yucatán cuisine. No wonder food is the center of Mérida’s universe.

That we drink and eat our way through the city is an understatement. Ella sums it up well: ‘We didn’t just go for drinks before dinner, we went for drinks at four different places, and then tacos, before dinner.’ Amy and John know how to live. My people.

Panuchos Yucatecan became my favorite Mexican food despite having never heard of it before. Panuchos are two lightly fried corn tortillas with a thin layer of refried black beans between them. They are topped with chicken, pickled onion, and sliced avocado. Indescribably amazing.

I vow only to eat them in Mexico, fearing they can’t be re-created elsewhere. I grab my pen and add it to my list: ‘Best of Mérida: panuchos.’

Interested in a walking Food Tour of Mérida? Click here to learn more!

El Marlín Azul, Mérida

With humble beginnings as a food truck in Merida’s industrial zone, El Marlin Azul is now considered one of the best places to eat in the city. I can speak with culinary confidence about the shrimp ceviche. Amy and John had bought some from the store the morning we arrived—our first foray into Yucatán cuisine. I make another vow, and add another entry: ‘Best of Merida: ceviche at El Marlín Azul’.

Restaurant Micaela, Mérida

Restaurant Micaela’s website claims its food is a tribute to Nana’s cooking, but the vibe is anything but grandmotherly. Micaela’s is a hidden gem in the old town, featuring vivid mural-painted walls, terra cotta tiles, and soft amber lighting. The hustle of its open kitchen further enhances the buzziness. Micaela’s is the kind of place to eat, drink, and linger, which is easy to do when the food is this good.

We order various appetizers for the table, including Crudo de atún (fresh tuna) and Rellenos de queso Oaxaca, followed by steak, short ribs, and other carnivorous entrées. Micaela’s Nana also notes that cooking is her love language. I hear you, Nana—loud and clear.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Cocktails and Tacos

Terraza Picheta is said to have the only terrace overlooking the old city of Mérida, Mexico. When we enter the expansive patio just before sunset, it’s clear they’ve won the Mérida lottery for location.

The views are panoramic and dominated by the cathedral in the east. Our rainbow remains a non-stop photo op until I turn around to re-focus my camera on the setting sun.

One round of drinks and a few appetizers are consumed until the sun is gone. Time for dinner—I think.

Not quite. First, we stop for another cocktail and pre-dinner taco at El Lucero, where I fall in love with the never-before-heard-of panucho. Lanterns hang at varying heights from an enormous vaulted and thatched roof. Palm trees line the stone walls. Marc Anthony’s smoky tenor fills the room.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Cocktails, Tacos, and Jenga

Patio Petanca is the complete opposite of Terraza Picheta. Low-key and hidden to Picheta’s upscale and wide-open. But it still makes the list. Petanca’s graffiti-covered metal door opens up to a game lover’s dream—an outdoor space with two boules courts and piles of games to keep one’s mind sharp throughout happy hour.

In Merida, boules is known as petanque, and the sandy game area takes up nearly all of Patio Petanca’s modest space. Amy and John order mezcal. I have a beer. No, Mom, no one has taken over my blog, I mean, website. I drink beer. But only in Mexico.

A fierce game of Mexican Jenga begins, and Ella eventually topples the tower. Before she can complain, a sudden rainstorm has us fleeing for cover under the thatched bar. There we find, really and truly, the world’s best taco.

If you don’t believe me, Amy, John, and Ella agree. This is the world’s best taco. Petanca has brought in a guest chef from nearby Pico de Gallo, much like Miami’s LIV would bring in DJ Steve Aoki. Well, not exactly the same way.

We want more tacos, but are dangerously late for dinner, which shouldn’t matter as none of us are hungry anymore. I open my notebook: ‘Best of Merida: tacos at Patio Petanca with guest chef from Pico de Gallo.’ My list is growing longer by the minute.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Live Music

Live music abounds in Mérida. You only need to walk down the street and follow your ears. Jazz and Blues lovers won’t want to miss a night at Dzalbay Cantina. Pick a night, any night. Because at Dzalbay, there’s never a night without live music. And with its well-tended bar of 30 beers and delectable cocktails, one night won’t be enough.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Daytrippin’

You don’t have to be super adventurous, a good swimmer, or even like water to enjoy the cenotes of the Yucatán. Trust me. Cenotes result from centuries-old, collapsing limestone bedrock that forms underground pools. The Yucatán peninsula has over 7,000 cenotes, some of which are thought to have been created by asteroids.

Swimming (or, in my case, wading) in freshwater cenotes is an otherworldly experience. Ancient Mayans believed that cenotes were sacred passages to the underworld. I believe they are a refreshing, ethereal escape from the Mexican sun. Undeniably, they are natural stunners and worth the trip out of town.

Santa Barbara Cenotes, Mérida

We visit the Santa Barbara cenotes on a quiet Monday morning, leaving the house at 9am to beat the crowds. Our driver knows exactly where to go, which is reassuring as the directions on the pamphlet have some cenotes-sized holes. ‘Located entrance of Homún. Take the first turning to the right and following road next to police station’. (sic) Hmmm.

The inexpensive entrance fee covers the bikes and life jackets. Despite my poor aquatic skills, I refuse to wear the life jacket. I get reprimanded three times, one in each of the cenotes. Cascabel, Chacsikín, and Xooch are within a mile of one another—each is more beautiful than the next.

Skip the lines! Click here to get tickets for Merida’s famous cenotes!

At Cascabel, we descend a precarious set of wooden steps toward a secret pool of water. Drippy cave sounds plink and plonk, and well-placed underwater lighting makes the setting even more surreal. There are a few other visitors, but not many. Amy and Ella swim the loop in the cave. I don’t. We hop back on our bikes and head to the other cenotes.

The entrance to the Xooch’ cenote is through a moss-covered arch at the bottom of a steep stone stairway. It theatrically opens to a freshwater pool with a wide-open Simpson-blue sky lighting it from above.

Trees hover precipitously on the crater’s edge, their long roots dangling toward the water’s surface. It feels very Jurassic Park circa 1993, and I half expect to see a pterodactyl swoop overhead. Instead, we see equally prehistoric-looking iguanas.

We float and enjoy the sounds of nature. For a full fifteen minutes, we have Xooch completely to ourselves. Well, almost. One particularly angry iguana gives me the side-eye from his perch on the cave wall. Gringos, he must be thinking in his pea-sized brain, vámanos!

Mayapan Ruins, Mérida

Chichen Itza Ruins are one of Mexico’s most famous Mayan sites, and for good reason. However, some lesser-known sites are equally enticing for those who want ruins for themselves. Mayapan is one of those places, and with a $2.40 entrance fee, there is very little reason not to go. Intrepid guests are free to climb the ancient ruins at their own risk, naturally.

Mayapan is 25 miles from Mérida, in a pueblo called Tecoh. It’s said that Mayapan may have been the last Mayan city to be built and inhabited. The central pyramid is named the Castle of Kukulcan, and I climb its crumbling steps easily, proud of my speed and fearlessness.

Upon reaching the top, panic replaces pride, and my knees buckle. My husband’s voice echoes in my head, ‘Going up is optional. Coming down is mandatory.’ I hate it when he says that. It takes me three times as long to return to Earth. It isn’t pretty, speedy, or fearless. Humbled and sweaty, we head back to Mérida.

Celestún Beach

The sleepy fishing village of Celestún is about an hour or so west of Mérida. With its pristine white sandy beaches lined with coconut trees, you might think that’s plenty of motivation to attract visitors. But this sprawling natural wetland has much more to offer. In addition to being home to over 400 migratory birds, the most famous of which are the stunning pink flamingos, it also has a hidden gem—Baldiosera spring.

Baldiosera Spring is a hidden gem in the Yucatan, reminiscent of a cenote nestled amidst the mangroves. Visitors can access this idyllic spot via boat along the river’s estuaries—a magical addition to any Mérida itinerary.

Click here for a tour of the Ria Celestún Biosphere Reserve to see the resident pink flamingos

Mérida is 🔥

The unassuming luxuries of the Yucatán and Mérida are found behind crumbling facades, upon makeshift stages, and within subterranean pools of water. At first glance, it appears to be an uncomplicated life. After three days of compiling my ‘Best of Mérida’ shortlist, I realize just how much Yucatán history there is here, below the surface, as deep as the cenotes themselves.

To add a little fuel to the fire, consider this. Three days in Mérida, Mexico, will cost less than one at a swanky hotel in Punta Mita. Is budget luxury a thing? It all depends on our definitions of luxury. I have room for both in my travels.

‘Why visit Mérida?’ Because it’s hot. It is in temperature for sure, but even more so as a destination to visit before the rest of the world finds it. Hopefully, this snapshot of one of Mexico’s most understated, richly colored cities sparks Marie Kondo-esque joy.

If not, there’s always Cancun.

Discover Mérida’s Hidden Gems with my E-Guide!
Click here!

First time in Mérida? Click here for an entertaining self-guided walking tour!

Interactive Mérida, Yucatán map with my hot spots

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

Mérida FAQs

Where exactly is Mérida? Tucked into Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, Mérida is about 35 km from the Gulf and has its own international airport, Manuel Crescencio Rejón International. You can also fly into Cancún International Airport and drive three to four hours west, watching the jungle quietly take over the landscape.

When’s the best time to visit? November through March is Mérida’s sweet spot: balmy days, low humidity, and breezy nights that make you want to linger in a courtyard with a mezcal cocktail in hand. Summer brings the heat and humidity, and June through October is the rainy season—though storms here are more cameo appearances than all-day affairs.

Why does everyone love Mérida? Because it’s a city with soul. Colorful facades, Mayan roots, colonial charm, world-class food, and a pace that encourages you to slow down. Stroll Paseo de Montejo, dip into nearby cenotes, listen to live music in the plazas after dark, and you’ll get it.

Is Mérida expensive? Mérida is refreshingly gentle on the wallet. Boutique hotels and chic Airbnbs abound without requiring a trust fund. Tacos are divine and cheap, taxis are easy, and splurges, like tasting menus and rooftop cocktails, won’t leave you wincing when the bill comes.

What can’t I miss? A sunset walk down Paseo de Montejo • A dip in the cool turquoise waters of Cenote X’batun or Cenote San Ignacio • Sunday markets on the Plaza Grande (with churros that could change lives) • A history fix at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya • A day trip to Uxmal or Chichén Itzá because standing beneath a 1,000-year-old pyramid never gets old.

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(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

March 21, 2025
12 Hours In Mérida: Everything You Need To Know

Mérida has captured the attention of intrepid travelers seeking a combination of history, art, architecture, music, culinary adventures, shopping, and good old-fashioned fun. Located in the northwest corner of the Yucatán Peninsula, Mérida is quickly climbing the hot lists with its boutiques, boutique hotels, rooftop bars, and street-side taco stands.

Read all about Mérida, the ultimate way to spend 12 hours in Mexico’s hottest city, and a few quick hit FAQs to get you going.

My whirlwind trip to Mérida is hardly enough time to scratch the surface of the Yucatán State’s culturally rich capital. I had only three days to explore. Three days to eat, drink, shop, and soak up Mérida’s unique vibe.

But, if I had to pare the best of Mérida down to one day, this is what I’d do.

12 Hours in Mérida

I’ve been invited to stay at a friend’s Airbnb in Mérida. Amy and her husband live there for a month, enjoying the new work-from-anywhere culture. Amy’s detailed research provides me with excellent local intel; like Mérida’s best shopping, Mérida’s best restaurants, and Mérida’s best bars.

The only downside (and I use downside loosely here) is that I can’t stay in one of Mérida’s boutique hotels. Ever the nosy blogger, I peek into a few anyway—for research! I decided that if I were to stay in a Mérida hotel, hands down, I’d choose Coqui Coqui.

Coqui Coqui has just one room. One fabulous room! So, if Mérida is on your Mérida wish list, book the room first and wrap your itinerary tightly around it. Part perfumery, part boutique hotel, all Belle Epoque boudoir-chic, Coqui Coqui dazzles with its marble-clad bathroom and his and her (her and her, him and him) side-by-side claw-footed tubs. The tubs alone are reason enough for me to plan a trip to Mérida, but the highly-curated boutique and the building are worth visiting even if the room isn’t available.

But first, coffee

I don’t know about you, but my day isn’t a day without caffeine. I wish I weren’t a coffee snob, but I’ve been on this planet long enough to know one thing—I need very good coffee. Thankfully, Mérida accommodates.

9am, Soco Bakery

A nondescript stone facade and a rickety wooden bench are all that welcome patrons to Soco, a bakery on a colorful Merida backstreet. It would be easy to pass by and never know the delectable treasures that lie inside. That is if it weren’t for one thing—the buttery scent of just-baked croissants wafting from the door.

Soco is a social hub. It’s immediately clear their clientele is fiercely loyal. I can see why. The barista creates specialty coffees like chai lattes, cold brews, horchatas, and kombucha. The baked goods are beyond explanation. Aside from a variety of fresh loaves of bread, croissants, and pain au chocolate, Soco has melt-in-your-mouth options like babka, Basque cheesecake, and mango lemon cruffins (not a typo, think croissant/muffin)

I grab a flat white and a bag of pastries. Fully fueled, I’m ready to take on Mérida.

10am, Plaza Grande

Plaza Grande is the beating heart of Mérida—a garden-filled square that’s an ideal place to begin exploring. Technically, the tree-lined Plaza Grande is a circle rather than a square. Its eight pedestrian walkways radiate from its center. I amble over to the unmissable, larger-than-life, rainbow-colored Mérida letters. With the Mexican flag waving in the background, it’s a natural photo op and an official welcome to this vibrant city.

11am, San Ildefonso Cathedral

As if this colorful welcome isn’t enough reason to love Plaza Grande, it’s also home to the Cathedral of Mérida. Also known as San Ildefonso, the 16-century cathedral looms over the square’s east side, I mean circle. Constructed from Mayan ruins, it’s an imposing backdrop to the lively promenades and historic buildings.

Street vendors set up their stalls, tourists wander, and locals rush past on their way to work. There’s a buzz in the air. Mérida is waking up!

Before I know it, it’s time for lunch. Am I hungry? I am! My flaky almond croissant is a distant high-calorie memory. Amy, my favorite Mérida-know-it-all, recommends ceviche from El Marlín Azul. Never one to pass on local insight, I turn right on Calle 62 and continue to rebuild my appetite.

12pm, El Marlín Azul

Unfortunately, El Marlín Azul is only four minutes from Plaza Grande, which doesn’t bode well for my step counter. With humble beginnings as a food truck in the industrial zone, El Marlín Azul is now considered one of the best places to eat in the city. Another unassuming storefront leads me to think that the best places to eat in Mérida compete to look the shabbiest.

A handwritten menu lists the day’s specials. I don’t speak Spanish, but I know enough words to order my favorites: camarone, pulpo, and pescado ceviche. Other delights include tuna tostadas, shrimp brochette, and fajitas. Trust me when I say no one leaves El Marlín Azul hungry. No wonder dinners don’t begin until at least 9pm. I swear I’ll never eat again. But I don’t swear I’ll never drink again. With so many local watering holes and swanky rooftop bars, a pre-dinner cocktail progressive is in my future.

Once again, full and happy, it’s time to shop. I continue down Calle 62 towards Caracol Púrapura, stopping at boutiques along the way.

130pm, Caracol Púrapura

Caracol Púrapura (Purple Snail) is a series of galleries that feels more like a museum than a shopping area. Handmade Talavera ceramic jewelry, Mexican folk art, and intricately embroidered clothing are just a few of the treasures to be unearthed from this inner courtyard at the intersection of Calles 60 and 53. The handicrafts found at Caracol Púrapura preserve Mexico’s traditions while supporting local artists.

I head back towards Plaza Grande en route to another Mérida shop that champions Mexican artisans in a completely different yet equally unique setting.

230pm, Taller Maya

It’s deceiving to refer to Taller Maya as just a home goods store. It has goals beyond traditional commercial endeavors. Taller Maya is a part of the World Fair Trade Organization, which aims to keep Mayan culture alive through relationships with hundreds of artisans in 40 communities across the Yucatán Peninsula.

Marble pedestal bowls, wooden furniture, luminous lamps, and hand-woven hammocks only begin to describe the wares offered at this highly curated Mérida boutique. Taller Maya is open and airy—a study in neutrals designed to feel like an uber-modern Mayan living room. I briefly wonder about squatter’s rights in Mexico.

I always think the best way to get to know a new city is through café culture. It’s one of my least active city activities. Depending on the time of day, I sit with a (coffee, a glass of wine, a Bloody Mary, etc) to watch city life unfold. After all this walking and shopping, I’m ready to imbibe.

4pm, El Lucero

Amy and I stop for a pre-dinner taco and beer at El Lucero. It’s here that I fall in love with panuchos. (I didn’t know what a panucho was either.) Panuchos are a specialty food of the Yucatán—refried tortillas stuffed with refried black beans and topped with a combo of pulled chicken, chopped cabbage, tomato, avocado, pickled red onions, and jalapeno pepper. Oh panucho, you had me at ‘refried’. While beer is not my go-to drink, it’s Mexico, and Corona pairs perfectly with my panucho.

6pm, Patio Petanca

The next stop on our pre-dinner progressive food tour is Patio Petanca. A graffiti-covered metal door opens up to an outdoor courtyard space with two boule courts and piles of games to keep one’s mind sharp throughout happy hour.

In Merida, boules is known as petanque, hence the name Patio Petanca. The petanque court takes up nearly all of Patio Petanca’s modest space. We opt for the less active game of giant Jenga and enjoy what I can safely say is the world’s best taco.

730pm, Terraza Picheta

A mini rainstorm has us shelter in place for another beer and the world’s best taco before we head back toward the center of Mérida. Just off the north side of the ~~square~~ circle is Terraza Picheta, a rooftop bar and restaurant known for its sunset views. The cathedral in the east dominates the panoramic views. Bravo, Terraza Picheta, you win the Mérida location lottery.

Finally, we are off to dinner. Am I hungry? I’m not sure. But, I’m happy for the 15-minute stroll to Micaela Mar & Lena. It’s an opportunity to see the streets of Mérida come alive at night and burn a few calories ahead of my next meal.

930pm, Micaela Mar & Lena

Local Mayan, Caribbean, Spanish, North African, and Middle Eastern cultures influence yucatán cuisine. It’s no wonder food is the center of Mérida’s universe. Our dinner at Micaela Mar & Lena proves that simple, unfussy food trumps all.

Micaela is set in a historic home with ambient lighting, a bright color palette, and a convivial buzz. Mar & Lena translates to sea and grill, which means that although seafood-centric, there are no wrong choices on the menu.

Dinner starts late and ends very late. I’ve spent all day eating, drinking, sightseeing, and shopping in Mérida. I’m shattered, but happily so.

Adios, Mérida

Amy and I wander back to her Airbnb, buzzing from the wine, satiated from heaving plates of gorditas, uchepos, and guacamole. The temperatures have cooled off, and the streets are quieter the further we get from the city’s heart. I hear a woman singing somewhere in the distance. Her soprano notes cut through the air and carry up into the night sky. In a city chock full of energy and vitality, it’s a theatrical ending to my adventure. Adios, Mérida.

Discover The Best of Mérida’s with my full-color 10-page e-guide. Download it here!

Looking for more hidden gems and unique experiences in Mérida?

• Explore four off-the-beaten-path cenotes

• Savor authentic Yucatan cuisine on a walking food tour

• Explore the Celestún biosphere on a guided boat ride

• For Foodies Only: A private guided food tour of Mérida

Mérida: FAQs

Where is Mérida? On Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, Mérida sits 35 km from the Gulf. Fly straight into Manuel Crescencio Rejón International Airport or land in Cancún International Airport and drive three scenic hours west.

Best time to visit? November–March. Warm days, cool nights, and zero humidity drama. Summer’s hot, rainy season’s short-lived.

Why go? Mérida is history wrapped in color—Mayan roots, colonial charm, and slow, sun-drenched afternoons. Stroll Paseo de Montejo, swim in cenotes, listen to music in the plazas. It whispers, not shouts.

Is it pricey? Nope. Boutique stays, tacos, and mezcal nights are surprisingly affordable. Even splurges don’t sting.

August 8, 2024
5 Things To Do In Vienna That Will Make You Fall In Love

It’s pretty easy to fall in love with Vienna, that magical ‘City of Dreams’ in Austria. And it’s not because of the vast amount of things to do in Vienna—the palaces, gardens, or world-class food. It’s about the harmony of the city. The symphonic undercurrent of Vienna captivates locals and tourists alike. There are so many things to do in Vienna that have been written about time and again. Here are five highlights that made me fall for Austria’s enchanting capital city.

I’ve come to Vienna for one thing—to see my daughter, Ella. She’s been abroad for four months and this is the longest I’ve gone without seeing her. We decide to meet in Vienna. Because why not Vienna? If Billy Joel says it’s waiting for me, who am I to disagree?

Ella and I create a shared Google doc. Hahahahaha. Ella creates a shared Google doc. That way, we can add ideas to our week-long itinerary from opposite sides of the Atlantic. I add restaurants and she adds bars. I add palaces and she adds pastry shops. When we are face to face, we have enough things to do in Vienna to please us both.

Don’t tell Ella, but I could care less about the sights, restaurants, or pastry shops. I’ve come to Vienna for just one thing.

Click here for my Free Vienna Hot Sheet

Things to do in Vienna

Yet, we need to eat. No one wants to travel with a hangry teenager. In my food research, I noticed a Viennese ‘must-eat’ appears time and again: the Sacher Torte. I don’t know what a Sacher Torte is. Does everyone else know? Surely Billy Joel does.

We also need to fill our days. Nothing says mother/daughter meltdown like too much idle time. I buy a Lonely Planet guidebook (yes, guidebooks still exist) and start reading. I’m not sure I know what I’m looking for, but I’ll know it when I see it.

It turns out Vienna is a goldmine of a European city. Gustav Klimt notwithstanding, the city is practically paved in gold. Clean, wide streets, stately architecture, ornate cathedrals, and vibrant gardens abound. Finding things to fill our days (and our stomachs) won’t be an issue.

Having been responsible for Ella’s travel upbringing, our travel styles are similar. We like a slow morning fueled by caffeine followed by some sort of activity. Strolling an artsy neighborhood, touring a palace, or sampling cheese at an outdoor market. ‘Activity’ is a decidedly loose term. Then we like to eat lunch, have more caffeine, and head back to the hotel for downtime before our evening activity—a kick-ass dinner.

Knowing Ella’s travel style makes our reunion much easier, and much more fun. Ella and I go deep and wide in Vienna, covering lots of ground in a week. What follows are five highlights.

5 / Things to do in Vienna: Go underground

Speaking of going deep, figuratively and literally, we stumble upon St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Stephansdom, as it’s also called, is a church with a haunting past. Above ground, the cathedral is a visual masterpiece that soars high above Vienna in its Gothic grandeur. With 230,000 multi-colored glazed tiles decorating its remarkable roof, it’s likely the city’s most iconic piece of architecture.

Yet, below ground is a different world. A ghostly one. Beneath the cathedral lies a mass grave for the thousands of Austrians who succumbed to the Bubonic plague in the 1700s. Outdoor cemeteries were closed due to illness, and the only place for the dead to be buried was underground.

Click to book St. Stephen’s Cathedral right here!

St. Stephen’s Catacombs, if you love ancient history

We tour the catacombs, sinking deeper into the church and thus into Austrian history. Then we walk beside the weathered stone sarcophagi of emperors, dukes, archdiocese, their wives, and children. Deeper into the catacombs, we peer into cavities of ancient walls and see piles upon piles of bones. Tall urns filled with the organs of the Habsburgs family are on prominent display. Being dismembered and dispersed was considered a post-life privilege. I would’ve opted out of that royal perk.

Ella and I love the dark, eerie catacombs. The air is thick with antiquity, and the effect is like a storm passing through our senses. We soon hear the church bells toll above us and are transported back to real-time. We resurface, exit the cathedral, and shield our eyes from the sun overhead. It’s noon—time for cake.

Click here for my Free Vienna Hot Sheet

4 / Things to do in Vienna: Eat cake

I may have never heard of a Sacher Torte, but I will become its BFF by the week’s end. If anything binds me and Ella, it’s butter, flour, and sugar. I schedule my next dental cleaning and research the best places to have one.

The Sacher Torte is a Viennese cake conceived due to an unfortunate event. Unfortunately, that is, for the official court pastry chef of Prince Klemens von Metternich. In 1832, the pastry chef fell ill just as his services were sought to prepare a one-of-a-kind dessert for royal guests. Enter backup pastry chef, 16-year-old Franz Sacher. Tasked with creating a masterpiece in record time, Sacher whips up an extraordinary chocolate cake. Before you can say Weiner Schnitzel, the official pastry chef, is out of a job.

As any baker knows, the key to confection perfection is using the highest quality ingredients. The original Sacher Torte’s ingredients are deceptively minimal: flour, sugar, eggs, chocolate, butter, and apricot jam.

After the cake is baked, it’s sliced in half, and a thin coating of warm apricot jam is spread on each layer. It’s then reassembled and topped with a chocolate glaze. Traditionally, the Sacher Torte is served with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream on the side.

Five Sacher Tortes, please

Ella and I have Sacher Tortes at five cafés in as many days, including the one named after the original—Café Sacher. We’re all about paying homage to Vienna’s famous cake. To say we make sacrifices is an epicurean understatement. One wedge contains 53g of carbs, 18g of fat, and 398 calories. When I arrive home my jeans don’t fit, my dogs fat-shame me, and my dentist is categorically disappointed.

On a lighter note, Ella is easy to travel with and rarely gets annoyed. Unless she’s hungry, or too full. Or if people are walking too slowly in front of us. Or, too fast behind us. If she hears bells gonging (which happens often). Or if I don’t know where I’m going (which also happens often).

Other than that, she’s a total joy.

Demel, if you love fancy cafés

A café within walking distance to Stephansdom, Demel has been in the cake business since 1786. Demel Café is textbook fancy with its gold touches and monogrammed napkins. What better place to sample our final torte of the week? But, when we see the other baked goods on display, we get greedy and decide to go beyond the torte.

While we wait our turn to enter Demel, we notice another line forming to our left. Fancy Demel has a take-out window? We learn it’s a line for kaiserschmarrn, a savory dish I can best describe as scrambled pancakes. Think of your favorite parts of homemade pancakes—the drippy parts. Then lump them all on a plate with powdered sugar and serve with plum preserves. Now, it’s clear why kaiserschmarrn needs its own take-out lane.

Demel earns the distinction of serving us our favorite Sacher Torte. The wedge is so precisely cut that it looks like it’s been sliced by a surgeon. The balance of tangy apricot jam to rich chocolate is heavenly. The cake itself is dense but not dry. While hard to crack, the whipped cream offsets the bittersweet chocolate shell.

This is the moment I realize my daughter is a metaphor for the Sacher Torte. Dense, layered, tangy, and bittersweet with a shell that’s hard to crack. I don’t tell her this of course. And by the time she reads it, I’ll be thousands of miles away.

3 / Things to do in Vienna: Dine like royalty

The Sacher Torte may have been created by an angst-ridden teenager for kings and queens, but we didn’t need titles to dine at the world’s 12th-best restaurant. Steirereck is the first restaurant I’ve visited that boasts an ‘urban-rural’ setting. This riverside dining utopia lies in the heart of the city yet also in the heart of leafy Stadtpark. Originally built in 1904, a more recent mirror-clad addition makes the restaurant look like an apparition of nature.

The interior of Steirereck is minimal, with warm wooden tones and abundant space between the round, white-linen-topped tables. In a brilliant design move, each table is set within a semi-curved wooden slatted wall which conveys the illusion of privacy. But, just a touch of privacy. We all like to people-watch while we eat, don’t we? The curved walls are separated by floor-to-ceiling windows so diners feel connected to the outdoors.

Steirereck, if you love destination dining

I make a reservation at Restaurant Steirereck the moment Ella agrees to meet in Vienna. Before I even book my flight. Before I even tell my husband I’m going to Vienna.

San Pellegrino describes the tasting menu as having ‘rare breeds, unfashionable fish species, and near-extinct fruits and vegetables’. Ummmm, is that little write-up supposed to be tempting? I shake off my reservation reservations and put my faith in Saint, I mean, San Pellegrino.

Ella and I enjoy every dish, Even the unfashionable catfish, which is served with beans and calamansi. I have no idea what calamansi is, but my guess is near-extinct fruit.

There was a time I couldn’t imagine taking Ella to a multi-course dining experience like this. Her first 17 years, to be precise. Until then, Ella swore she would never eat fish. Swore she would never eat sushi. At 19, she now eats everything from squiggly calamari to tuna tartare. I don’t dare say I told you so. But inside I’m smiling with the kind of satisfaction only the parent of a stubborn teenager can understand.

Other highlights of our 7-course, wine-paired dinner are seasonal asparagus with poppy seed, apricot, and lamb’s lettuce. Piglet’s tail with Swiss chard, shiso, and black currant. We learn that Viennese cuisine is the only one in the world named after a city. Bravo, Vienna, for the well-deserved culinary accolade.

Click here for my Free Vienna Hot Sheet

2 / Things to do in Vienna: Go Baroque

Bravo, indeed. There appears to be no end to Vienna’s allure. An inherently walkable city, our step counters reach never-before-seen numbers by the end of each day. However, if there’s one Vienna sight worth walking over 20,000 steps for, it’s Schönbrunn Palace.

The former summer palace of the Habsburg monarchs, Schloss Schönbrunn, corners the market on empirical decadence and luxury. Built in the 17th century and named a UNESCO World Heritage Sight in 1996, there is perhaps no better example of Baroque architecture in Europe than Schönbrunn Palace.

Schönbrunn Palace, if you love imperial life

What was originally built as an imperial hunting lodge for Crown Prince Josef in the 7th century later became the glittering focus of court life when it was replaced with a chateau for Dowager Empress Eleonora Gonzaga. Today, visitors can tour the buttery yellow Schönbrunn Palace, its opulent staterooms, and lavish fountain-filled gardens.

We get much more than we expect at Schönbrunn Palace. I expect to be wowed by the private apartments of Franz Josef and his wife, Sisi, with their elaborately decorated walls, intricate parquet floors, and extensive art collections. I expect to drool over the well-kept gardens. I don’t expect the grounds’ sheer size, the added architectural marvel, The Gloriette, the children’s zoo, the rosarium, or the enclosed botanical and desert gardens.

Ella and I returned to the Orangerie for a classical music performance the next evening. If there’s one top ten sights to craft an entire day’s itinerary, it’s Schloss Schönbrunn.

Skip the Line! Click here to get Schonbrunn Palace tickets in advance

1 / Things to do in Vienna: Uncover Clandestine Cocktails

I can always count on Ella to be on the pulse of what’s trending and TikTok-ing. No matter how hard I try, I’ll never have access to her adolescent algorithms. My Instagram feed is populated with accounts called @tillytheblacklab, @mytherapistsays, and @momsbehavingbadly. Her social platforms are filled with hidden bars and clubs around the world. She told me about one such place, a speakeasy called The Chapel Bar, and asked if I wanted to try to find it.

The Chapel Bar, if you love absolving your sins in alcohol

The Chapel Bar is a highlight of our trip. Part of me doesn’t want to spoil the hunt for those who may end up in search of this hidden spot. The other part wants to spill all the details. The Chapel Bar makes you work for your cocktail. Suspend your disbelief. It’s worth finding.

A touch of biblical theater adorns the cocktail menu at The Chapel Bar. Think sins, plagues, and 80s Top 40 hits with drinks like ‘A Snake in Paradise—Adam Always Blames Eve’, which combines Bacardi Anejo Cuatro Rum, cloudy apple juice, lime, and Old Judge Falernum. And the ‘Phil Collins—I can feel it coming in the air tonight, Oh Lord’ concoction made with Bombay Sapphire London Dry Gin, elderflower liqueur, pink grapefruit, and club soda.

The artistry of the drinks lives up to the wild descriptions. Ella’s drink is enclosed within a mini-birdcage and we see someone sipping from what looks like a red Christian Louboutin stiletto. Although it was pretty dark, it could’ve been a Jimmy Choo. Whoever is responsible for creating these clandestine cocktails, I need to meet you. You are my creative god.

First time in Vienna? Discover the best of Vienna (including Sacher Tortes, of course) with this self-guided walking tour of the city!

Falling for Vienna

Vienna is a city that inspires harmony. Whether it’s the delicate balance of apricot and chocolate in a celebrated cake or nymphs floating above in a magnificent palace mural. An under-the-radar cocktail bar or the combination of unfashionable ingredients served at a world-class restaurant.

It may have taken me half a century to get to Vienna, but as Mr. Joel promised, it was waiting for me. Vienna is waiting for you, too. Just don’t forget to sample a Sacher Torte or two while there. Your dentist will forgive you.

Check out Vienna’s most luxurious hotel here. It’s my top pick.

Click here for my Free Vienna Hot Sheet (including shhhhhh, The Chapel Bar)

Interactive Vienna Map with All Of My Favorite Spots

Map from Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

June 20, 2024
Taking on the Medina, and More—What To Do In Marrakech

What To Do In Marrakech, A Guide /

Were it up to me, The Caliph’s House by Tahir Shah would be required reading for anyone traveling to Morocco. Without reading this candidly funny novel, I would’ve been confused, baffled, and bewildered during our visit to Marrakech.

After spontaneously moving his family to Morocco from the UK, Shah buys a home—the Caliph’s House —and begins the arduous task of renovating it. At the same time, he’s attempting to rebuild his family’s lives in a foreign country. They learn all too quickly that nothing in Morocco goes exactly as planned and never in a time frame that makes outward sense.

Rational and irrational thinking collide in a whimsical and often unbelievable manner. I laughed out loud throughout the book, loving the effervescent and colorful prose.

Magical Arrivals

Shah’s story lingers in my mind as we exit the doors of Marrakech Airport, a piece of jaw-dropping architecture worth a visit in its own right. Our task? To locate our hotel sign among the several hundred Moroccan taxi and limo drivers. I think the logo, an iconic fan, should be pretty easy to spot.

My husband and I take several loops of the crowd together. Then, we split up and took a few solo loops. No sign. No driver. Eventually, we stand at the center of the crowd, which forms a circle around us—a five-minute lapse. Then a strange thing appears on my left—a very large sign on a very tall stick with a very black fan logo. Our driver has materialized, seemingly out of thin air.

I ask him where he’s been all this time. With absolute surprise and genuine sincerity, he replies, ‘Madame! But I have been standing right here the whole time!” My husband and I look at each other in disbelief. Then I remembered Shah’s story and relaxed. There’s no point in arguing with him. He’s been here the whole time, of course. We must have overlooked him. So begins our journey in Marrakech.

Be the first to know when I find a new place to get lost. Just click.

What To Do In Marrakech: Get Lost In The Souks

I have a list of adjectives that illustrate Marrakech—vibrant, eclectic, bustling, electric. However, the buzzy current of the Berber Empire is much more than what is seen on the surface. So what do we do during our week ahead in this energized city?

First up is the Medina—the old walled medieval part of town. The Medina is a dense maze of Moroccan capitalism with a photo op at every turn. I learned that the souks (markets) are not solely for souvenir shopping. As I wander the narrow passageways, I see layers of activity.

I stumble upon an entire alley of shoemakers. Each stall was about as wide as the shoemaker himself. In a series of memorized movements, he hammers, cuts, and then casually tosses the leather soles into a pile of identical soles. Another alley has lantern makers. The artisans punch through thin copper to create delicate pieces as they’ve likely been doing for a century. While it looks like a performance for tourists, it’s simply everyday life.



What To Do In Marrakech: Hire A Guide

We hire a private guide, knowing he will take us to his brother’s uncle’s best friend’s rug shop. His predictability makes me smile. Yet, how would we see market life in full swing without him? The haggling and negotiating. The rug seller’s touristy ceremonial show, with steaming hot mint tea. We’re told to go back the next day without a guide if we find something we’d like to buy. We will likely get a better price since no commissions will need to be paid—an insider tip.



Our guide steers us towards beautiful architectural gems, including the ornate Bahia Palace. He secures a reservation at a lively rooftop restaurant and gives us enough sense of local history that we aren’t walking nose-deep in our guidebook.

We buy local argan oil from sellers promising eternal youth and an end to age spots and smell colorful spices waft through the air. Snake charmers fleece us after draping cobras around our necks, refusing to remove them until a suitable price is paid. We love every minute of the chaos (even the snakes) and give props to his entrepreneurial skills.

What To Do In Marrakech: Eat Above The Markets

Restaurant Nomad’s entrance is in the Medina’s dark, narrow corridor. We climb an equally dark, narrow staircase, wondering if this is really where we want to have lunch. We reach a door and then immediately shield our eyes. The sun is high in the sky above us on Nomad’s exposed rooftop patio overlooking the Medina.

We are handed straw hats to deter the sun and settle into our seats as if on cue. We observe the markets from above and feel fortunate to have secured such a prime spot to eat. The food was classic Moroccan, with mezze platters and yogurts, house-marinated olives, tagines, and traditional briouat (savory puff pastry filled with meat, cheese, lemon, and pepper). A long, leisurely lunch ensues.

Terrasse des Epices

And while we love Nomad, we enjoy the next day’s rooftop lunch even more. Terrasse des Epices is a hot lunch ticket, with crowds from morning until night. Terrasse des Epices has sheltered alcoves to sit and absorb the convivial scene. The clientele is a mix of families and hipster tourists. A Moroccan DJ from Essaouira is set up in the middle of it all, dancing and having the time of his life.

Our DJ doesn’t miss a beat and plays new remixes of old classics that inspire even the 40-somethings on the terrace. No one looks like they have any desire to leave. This may be partially because Terrasse des Epices is one of the only restaurants within the Medina walls to serve alcohol. We order a bottle of rosé and stay put for a while.

Be the first to know when I find a new place to get lost. Just click.

What To Do In Marrakech: Stay At The Mandarin Oriental

When traveling a city, we typically spend the morning wandering and sightseeing, have lunch, and then head back to our hotel to lounge for the afternoon. We chose the Mandarin Oriental, 10 minutes from the city center. It’s an enormous and tropical property, and we feel far from the hustle of town. The hotel has 54 stand-alone private villas, most with private pools in walled courtyards.

The entire property is alive, with rose bushes in full bloom. 100,000 fragrant roses are spread over 20 hectares, and we admire them one afternoon via the hotel’s complimentary bikes. Bougainvillea, golden barrel cacti, climbing vines, and mature olive trees dot the landscape.—an explosion of flora.

The hotel design is modern Moroccan decor: bold, graphic lines, black and white marble, tall, narrow archways, and shallow inner courtyard pools.



What To Do In Marrakech: Don’t Leave The Room

Our room feels like a home—but not my home, mind you. It has a living area with a daybed and a bar. A platform bed in the master suite looks squarely onto a long rectangular pool. The oversized bathroom has a personal hammam-style shower and a deep stand-alone tub.

The outside space also boasts a daybed, an outdoor kitchen, and a beautiful fireplace the staff will light upon request. It’s a challenge to pull ourselves away for dinner.

What To Do In Marrakech: Dine at Al Fassia

Another Caliph’s House moment presents itself at dinner. I’d made a few early reservations, and Al Fassia, an all-women-run restaurant, was high on my list. I know there are two locations, so I’m sure to be clear about the location we would like to go. Fifteen minutes later, we are dropped off at Al Fassia.

It’s a tranquil oasis—lush, romantic gardens and outdoor nooks. We walk in and give our name only to discover, you guessed it, we are at the wrong Al Fassia. And no, this location has no available tables this evening.

We call another taxi and head to the other Al Fassia. The food is good, but the first Al Fassia would have been a better choice, as it was in a less urban environment—another exercise in patience in the frenetic world of Marrakech.

What To Do In Marrakech: Shop and Haggle

The following day, we shop. We aimlessly wander the ancient passageways, picking up souvenirs for our families at home. While waiting for my friend to pay at a nearby stall, I stand against a wall to take in the whirlwind of market life. Perhaps, only because I’m not moving do I notice an interesting shop set further back from the others.

I walk into a treasure trove of beautifully curated art pieces, ceramics, textiles, furniture, and rugs. Old and new, Moroccan and Persian—it’s a visual explosion. Hakim is the owner, and his warm and friendly manner entertains us as we shop. Hakim prepares tea for us. It has thick bundles of mint leaves overflowing from colorful rattan-wrapped glasses. It’s a welcome respite from the bustle of the souks.

Click here for a self-guided tour of the souks! The best way to uncover the Medina’s secrets!

A Story of Two Paintings Bought Six Years Apart

Hakim’s hidden shop is called La Porte d’Or. His clientele includes interior designers, politicians, and celebrities who seek him out from across the globe.

My husband and I immediately zero in on a piece of art—a mixed-media piece with old, sepia-tinged pages floating amidst calligraphic Arabic typography. As is expected, we haggle and get to a price we can all live with. Then, I notice another piece by the same artist—the perfect companion to the one we are about to buy. I ask Hakim for the price, and he says it’s not for sale. I smirk. He’s kidding, of course; isn’t everything for sale here?

But Hakim holds firm, and we walk out with just one piece of art. For years after, Daniel and I have always wondered about that piece and why he wouldn’t sell it to us.

Scrolling Instagram six years later, I notice a friend from New York is in Marrakech on vacation. I DM him a shortlist of must-see spots, including Le Porte D’Or. I joke that if he sees Hakim, to tell him I’ve never forgotten about the artwork he refused to sell.

Within the hour, my friend is not only in the shop but has found our long-lost piece of art. After some haggling, a WhatsApp exchange, and a wire transfer, the art we’d fallen in love with in 2018 is bound for DC. I’m again reminded of the whimsy and serendipity of The Caliph’s House. The magic of Marrakech can’t be underestimated.



What To Do In Marrakech: ‘Enjoy’ A Hammam Experience

We’re told not to miss a hammam treatment (a traditional Moroccan cleansing and bathing ritual). A friend had recommended traveling to the spa at The Royal Mansour, although most hotel spas offer the hammam treatment.

If Marrakech is a city of high-density, magnetic, and outrageous color, then the spa at the Royal Mansour is quite positively the total absence of it.

I step through a dark, thick, wooden doorway and enter a world of double-height glass cathedral ceilings and white roses—set within a room of white wrought-iron latticework. It’s a stark contrast to the vibrancy of life outside. Then, I’m led to a lounge with cushy daybeds where I await my therapist.

The Royal Treatment

The treatment itself leaves my skin feeling like a newborn baby. First, I lay on a hot slab of marble where the therapist scrubs off layers of unwanted skin with an abrasive Kessa mitt. Next, warm water is poured (actually thrown) all over me.

A massage with various therapeutic oils is next, followed by an eye-popping cold water plunge that brings me back to reality. I’ll admit, it’s an unusual way to get pampered. Yet, I felt shockingly invigorated. The treatment awakens senses I didn’t even know I had.

The Magic of Marrakech

Marrakech is a city of layers, each revealing something unique and mesmerizing. I realize I’ve only just begun to scratch the surface. In hindsight, I wish I’d stopped more often to absorb it. Marrakech was constantly in motion, and I was too often caught in the wave.

Tahir Shah and his family had a year in Morocco to discover the culture, explore the country, and immerse themselves in the local traditions. We have two weeks. But I thank Shah for preparing us for the time we did have there through humor, candor, and wit. For allowing me to laugh things off that would have otherwise frustrated me.

Marrakech is a city to unwrap, like a treasure. Perhaps one day, I will have another chance to explore it.

Book It:

The Caliph’s House charts a year’s journey of Tahir Shah and his family. They uproot their lives by leaving dreary London for Casablanca’s colorful, captivating world. Funny, candid, and insightful, I couldn’t have enjoyed my trip to Morocco nearly as much if I hadn’t read this memoir first.

Bonus: Take On The Countryside

The scenic Atlas Mountains are only an hour outside of Marrakech. What better way to combine a little countryside with our busy city experience? Our next stop? The decadent and low-key Kasbah Bab Ourika. Follow me there.

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

March 3, 2024
5 of the Best Caribbean Beach Bars

My top five favorite Caribbean beach bars and restaurants are personal. They’re based on my memories of food, wine, people, and views. My top five list might change over time, but these are the Caribbean beach bars and beach clubs that keep my travel memories alive and kicking.

My Top Five Caribbean Beach Bars

When assessing the best beach bars, suffice it to say that I have a few baseline requirements. A vibe that naturally pairs with the island’s culture is one. Combining tourists and locals adds authenticity and credibility, and festive air helps. The food (if served) is at a culinary level that matches the establishment’s look and atmosphere. And lastly, a USP (Unique Selling Point) that makes me yearn to go back months after the holiday has ended.

Except for Anegada, I’ve been fortunate enough to visit the following Caribbean beach clubs and bars more than once. That qualifies me as an expert in my own experiences, that is. Next time you find yourself in the Caribbean (and let’s all agree that we hope that time is soon), let me know if you concur. Or better yet, tell me about your favorite Caribbean bars and restaurants.

Click Here For My Free Caribbean Beach Bar Hot Sheet

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 5 / Basil’s Bar, Mustique

Island Vibe: Celebrity Secret Hideaway

Basil’s is a Caribbean beach bar and restaurant leisurely perched on the edge of Britannia Bay in Mustique. It attempts to camouflage the island’s undercover glamour. Lush and verdant, Mustique has only two hotels and two restaurants. Its beauty is hiding in plain sight among the breezy Windward Islands.

Why I like Basil’s: Chill, open-air, Basil’s woos villa owners, villa renters, reclusive celebrities, and yachties alike, with a combination of casual food (like perfectly seasoned grilled lobsters), a low-key atmosphere, and spectacular sea views.

I’ll admit, though, that I have little memory of the food because the setting is the star, day, and night. Mega-yachts and sublime sailboats were anchored in the distance, which created another layer to this Caribbean bar’s swoon-worthy backdrop.

USP: I like to settle into the indoor/outdoor living spaces and nooks or park myself on one of the wooden stools overlooking the tranquil Caribbean Sea.

Worth mentioning: Live Music/DJ Nights/Basil’s Boutique/Accessible by car or boat

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 4 / Catherine’s Café, Antigua

Island Vibe: Casual European Beach

To say Catherine’s is a Caribbean beach club that is comfortable in her own skin is an understatement. Open-air, louver-shuttered, sea-breezy Catherine’s Café on the island of Antigua lazes under warm, butter-yellow Veuve Cliquot umbrellas.

Why I like Catherine’s: Catherine’s barefoot casual Caribbean beach bar feels like Europe. I see naked toddlers running amok with their half-naked mums chasing them. It boasts a French-inspired menu and a well-thought-out wine list.

I can’t forget our effervescent bartender, Damien, who kept us in good spirits. Neem trees enshroud the hidden location. It practically begs one to spend an afternoon there—which is exactly what we did.

USP: The cozy and intimate beach area adjacent to the bar offers lovely bay views in a secluded setting.

Worth mentioning: Live Music/Cheese Course/G+T Menu/Bakery/Boutique/Accessible by car or boat

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 3 / The Rum Bar, Cooper Island

Island Vibe: Desert-Island Barefoot Beach Shack

Our sailboat grabbed one of the last available moorings in Manchioneel Bay, off the shores of Cooper Island. I felt like a survivor about to crawl onto a deserted beach. The people lazing on the wooden decks of the Rum Bar were scrappy and barefooted, semi-drunk, and happily marooned. It was as if we had found a hidden outpost, a tiny island jewel box, where a lucky few were escaping the outside world. Idyllic.

Why I like The Rum Bar: Cooper Island has an authenticity that is somewhat unique to the British Virgin Islands, which are often heavy with tourists and can sometimes feel manufactured.

A clear sign that the Rum Bar, part of the modest Cooper Island Beach Club, is all it’s cracked up to be was that we noticed yacht crews hanging at the bar—the real-life version of ‘Below Deck.’ If the Rum Bar was where they chose to spend their limited free time, we knew we were on to something good. It‘s definitely a Caribbean beach bar worth exploring.

USP: The remote and rickety beach shack-chic setting that, true to its name, houses 280 different rums.

Worth mentioning: Bakery/Barista/Accessible only by boat/Arrive early to get one of the 30 coveted moorings

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Best Caribbean Beach bars: 2 / Anegada, Cow Wreck Beach Bar

Island Vibe: Utterly Remote Castaway

Seventeen nautical miles from Virgin Gorda sits the pancake flat, remote island of Anegada. The name Anegada means ‘drowned island.’ At only 28 feet tall at its highest elevation, it could not feel farther away from civilization. That’s exactly what makes this Caribbean beach bar and restaurant so enchanting.

Why do they call it Cow Wreck Beach, I wondered? In 1929, a 380-foot-long steel freighter called The Rocus was heading from Trinidad to Baltimore. The Rocus’s cargo was filled with cow bones that would later be ground into fertilizer.

Unfortunately, The Rocus made an unexpected and devastatingly final stop when she collided with Anegada’s treacherous Horseshoe Reef. Since the wreck, the ocean floor has remained eerily scattered with cow bones. As for the freighter, it’s still lodged on its starboard side just beneath the water’s surface. It hasn’t budged an inch since 1929.

Why I like Cow Wreck: There are thousands of sea urchin shells in every size and all the varying degrees of white that the sun can bleach. The sea is a color that one would immediately assume is an Instagram filter. The open-air beach bar has peeling paint, plastic chairs, and dive-y, no-frills decor.

USP: A Caribbean beach bar that is this challenging to get to only adds to its allure.

Worth mentioning: Wreck Punch/Lobster/Bar games/Accessible only by boat or ferry

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 1 / St. Barths, Nikki Beach

Island Vibe: Over-the-top beach club party

There’s nowhere else in the Caribbean quite like St. Barths. Authentic French through and through, the words St. Barths conjure up Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous glamour. Nikki Beach is ideally situated to soak up the island’s eternally sun-filled vibes.

Imagine the days when Greta Garbo and other Hollywood stars walked these very shores. Now imagine Beyonce and Jay-Z at the table beside you. Nikki Beach gradually turns up the volume throughout their two Sunday seatings. You will never want the party to end.

Why I like Nikki Beach: Dance on the tables with wild abandon whether you are 8, 18, or 88. The upbeat party on the beach is for everyone. Order one of the famous sushi boats to go along with your 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet. Go wild and pair vintage Dom Perignon with an ounce or two of caviar. The sky is the limit here in every way. No one goes home hungry or thirsty without a beachy glow after a day at Nikki Beach.

USP: Glam, glam, and more glam. Part Caribbean beach club and part beach bar, it offers killer views of St. Jean’s Bay and incredible people-watching for hours on end.

Worth mentioning: Reservations are a must/Live DJ/Special occasion splurge

Dream job: If becoming a bartender abroad is your life goal, look no further than JOOBLE for inspiration.

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February 6, 2024
Blue Rock: A Beautiful Mini-Break in the Blue Ridge Mountains

A butterfly floats out from the greenhouse door as I walk in. Its pale amber and brown wings catch the breeze. Inside, the smell of ripe tomatoes fills the air—intoxicating in the way only farm-fresh vegetables can be. It’s early morning at Sunnyside, a farm in Washington, Virginia, just 90 minutes west of where I live in Washington DC.

Earlier, I’d spent time speaking with Sunnyside’s Vegetable Production Co-Manager at the Flint Hill Latin Market. Nik Kohl had Asian pears, tomatillos, purslane, herbs, and other vegetables simply displayed under a handwritten sign. A few of the ingredients were unfamiliar to me, like purslane, for instance. Its slightly sour taste reminded me of watercress. Little did I know this highly nutritious, tasty ‘weed’ I’d never heard of would make an appearance at my dinner later that night.

Destination: Blue Rock

I’m Blue Rock-bound. I’m on my way to discover first-hand why this five-bedroom inn and restaurant which sits on 80 acres of rolling hills is creating such a stir in Rappahannock County, Virginia. Bespoke farmhouse rooms, bucolic countryside views, and a vineyard-edged koi pond would normally be enough to pique my interest in a destination.

At Blue Rock, however, there’s another factor at play—Chef Bin Lu.

Bin Lu, formerly of DC’s Pineapple and Pearl fame, trades in his chef whites to take on the blue mountains of Virginia. Partnering with the Farm at Sunnyside, he takes farm-to-table dining one step further. Earth to table and then back to the Earth once more. A culinary cycle worthy of Mother Nature’s stamp of approval—set within a boutique farmhouse inn whose backdrop is the ever-idyllic Blue Ridge Mountains.

Rappa-where?

Not long ago, I couldn’t even pronounce Rappahannock, let alone find it on a map. Who am I kidding? I still can’t say it and I’d still be driving in circles if not for Google. That said, having Blue Ridge mountain towns like Washington and Sperryville within striking distance of DC makes Rappahannock County an uber-convenient mini-break destination.

Taking advantage of its rich, natural beauty, Rappahannock County is dotted with wineries, inns, and farmlands. It’s steeped in American history. “Rappahannock” comes from the equally difficult-to-pronounce Algonquian word lappihanne which translates to ‘where the tide ebbs and flows.’ Ahhh, Virginia—for poets as well as lovers.

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Blue Rock, The Inn

I’m visiting Blue Rock for one night only. And from the moment I walk onto the patio, I regret I don’t have one more. The mountains, layered in their namesake color, are mesmerizing. Blue Rock can certainly be a one-night destination, with fireside drinks, Chef Bin’s four-course menu, and a nightcap at the bar. But two nights would give me more time to savor it, I think, as well as a chance to wander the countryside and little towns.

Once a 19th-century working farm, Blue Rock has been converted into an inn with five stately and lovingly-designed rooms. Scene-stealing wallpapers adorn the walls, including one of my favorites by Cole&Son Fornasetti called Nuvolette.

A combination of cozy contemporary French-inspired furniture mixed with traditional accents and touches of bronze make each room an individual gem. With literary names like Walden, Thornton, and Hawkins, I want to come back with the latest Ann Patchett novel and try them all.

At Blue Rock, It’s All In The Details

The main house is classically beautiful, simple, and intimate. I admire the expertly-curated details as I walk around. A wooden chess board. A braided floor lamp. A stack of carefully chosen architecture books. In my room, I fall in love with the dark, slightly eerie, floral bathroom wallpaper, wishing I had the guts to be so bold in my own home.

Patterns overlap patterns that shouldn’t work together but somehow do. The artwork is clearly hand-picked—the kind of pieces I’d be giddy about if I’d found them at an estate sale. The discoveries go on as I linger in each room and explore the common spaces.

But perhaps the most intriguing area is the private dining room with its overly low, post and beam ceilings, overly tall fireplace, and garden-inspired wallpaper. The space has ‘celebration’ written all over it. With seating for up to 12 guests, the host can work with Chef Bin to create a menu destined to elegantly mark any milestone birthday or anniversary.

PC: Blue Rock

Meet Rappahannock County’s New Chef

Earlier in the day, I’d had a chance to meet Chef Bin. I asked him how he finds his inspiration for the menu. He told me, “Blue Rock is an expression of what is already here.” Another poetic sentiment. It’s clear the mineral-rich Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia have much to do with the food plated at Blue Rock. Chef Bin creates his distinct dishes around them.

Later, he tells me he often revises a dish as the night goes on—evolving the presentation and balance of ingredients in real-time. This is a stark contrast to the rigid, tweezer-plated meals some might come to expect with tasting menus of this caliber.

One Night and Four Courses at Blue Rock

Before dinner, I sit on a lawn chair to admire the late-setting sun with a cocktail from the bar. The vineyards and koi pond in the distance add multiple layers of beauty to the scene. I meet up with my friend and we head inside, excitedly anticipating the meal ahead.

An amuse-bouche of puréed greens as fresh as the farm itself appears first. No doubt some of the herbs and ‘weeds’ I saw at the farm market this morning have made their way into this energizing first taste.

The four courses that follow are alike in their refusal to be fussy, despite the pretty plating. Yet, they are wildly diverse in their flavors and textures. There are two options for each course, and in most cases, we divide and conquer in order to sample them all.

Choices Abound at Blue Rock

I start with a Warm Mushroom Chawanmushi. The menu tells me the herbs, vegetables, and greens are sourced from The Farm at Sunnyside. Until my recent dinner at Kappo Makoto, in DC, I’d never heard of this traditional Japanese dish. The balance of salty and sweet in Chef Bin’s interpretation of steamed egg custard is a pure expression of umami. My friend starts with the Ike Jime Fluke Crudo layered with pickled vegetables and tempura flakes that give the dish a subtle crunch.

The second course is a choice of Saffron Rice Pilaf with Tsar Nicoulai Trout Row and Sweet Corn Agnolotti with Button Chanterelles. I don’t know who Tsar Nicoulai is but his trout roe brings a supreme pop of color and flavor to the creamy rice. The pasta is equally flavorful and becomes my favorite bite of the night.

For the third course, I choose the Roasted Atlantic Halibut with Sauce Meunière because I’m intrigued by the accompanying zucchini millefeuille. The plating is approachable, not labored, and the sauce is just rich enough not to overpower the delicate fish. The ribbon of zucchini is a delicious and theatrical flourish.

Dinner is paced to perfection, giving us time to catch up and enjoy the well-chosen wine pairing. The room seats only 32 people, yet it has a convivial buzz. Twinkle lighting on the outdoor dining patio adds to the ambiance and view.

Blue Rock and The Farm, A Brilliant Partnership

The next morning, with Chef Bin’s four courses firmly behind me, I have time to reflect. I recall my conversation with Nik who’d told me about the relationship between Sunnyside and Blue Rock. While we had not left any food behind last night, if we had, all scraps and waste would have been returned to Sunnyside for composting.

Nik had told me the story of an unintentional experiment in composting. One season, they had only enough compost to fertilize half of their hot peppers. When it came time to pick them, the difference in growth was astonishing. The peppers which had had the benefit of the compost were nearly double the size of the non-composted peppers.

This brilliant food cycle benefits all involved—the planet, the produce, the farmer, the chef, and the diners. Did this make me feel even better about my meal at Blue Rock? Absolutely.

Coming Full Circle, at Blue Rock

Chef Bin Lu’s culinary finesse shines bright at Blue Rock. His dedication to sourcing unique ingredients from local farms speaks volumes about his commitment to flavor, nutrition, sustainability, and the dining experience as a whole. Blue Rock’s Earth-conscious philosophy extends beyond the plate, as it takes sustainable dining to new heights—creating a full-circle approach that epitomizes the notion that what we eat and where it comes from matters.

My Blue Rock mini-break was more than the sweet little inn and farmhouse dinner I’d expected. The combination of lovely rooms, tranquil views, and welcoming staff was only the beginning.

Chef Bin’s closed loop between Blue Rock and farms like Sunnyside makes the difference between having dinner and having a dining experience. Not a fussy, formal experience—but one filled with highlights between the courses.

One that allows for a touch of serendipity, a few surprises, and a yes, a bit of poetry.

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Disclaimer: Although Blue Rock kindly hosted me for my stay, all opinions stated are my own. As always, I’ll only recommend places I fully believe in. I fully endorse any affiliate links above.

October 5, 2023
Welcome to the Neighborhood, Kappo Makoto

Kappo Makoto opened in DC’s Palisades not long ago, filling a sushi-shaped hole in the neighborhood. Recently, I snagged a reservation at one of Kappo Makoto’s 21 seats and watched Chef Ogawa create an omakase dining experience not unlike the kind one would have in his home country of Japan.

I turn left onto MacArthur Boulevard. The peloton races by, all lycra-clad and perky in their collective excitement. I walk past Black Coffee, its line for morning glory muffins and oat milk lattes rolls out the door, beyond people reading the Sunday Post, and towards the farmer’s market. The market is overflowing with purveyors selling peaches, kale, zinnias, and jugs of cold-pressed olive oil.

Toddlers spill out of their strollers to pet curly-coated doodles named Auggie and Doogie. The pups pull their owners toward the beef jerky stall, drooling in anticipation of a chewy treat. People mingle, buy raffle tickets from everyone’s favorite neighbor, Maria Garcia, and line up for the best Belgian waffles outside Brussels.

It’s Sunday morning in the Palisades—the DC neighborhood nestled along the edge of Georgetown and the Potomac River. Between the coffee shop, nail salon, fish market, and a smattering of locally-owned restaurants, we pretty much have it all here.

Or, so I’d thought.

Old Space, New Neighbor

The wooden door that for 26 years had opened into Sakedokoro Makoto’s beloved Japanese restaurant has been closed since 2018, leaving a sushi-shaped hole in the hearts of many Palisades residents. Makoto closed with a simple note to the neighborhood, “Thank you for all the support and goodwill over the years. It has been an absolute honor serving our customers.”

This past March, restauranteur Ari Wilder, and Chef Minoru Ogawa teamed up to open Kappo Makoto in its place—an homage to its late chef, Yoshiaki Itoh. Does the fact that I didn’t know Kappo Makoto opened until June say something about my attention to the neighborhood listserv or about Kappo Makoto’s marketing strategy? Let’s not point fingers. I make a reservation and start to save my appetite.

Kappo Makoto is a wagyu-inspired omakase restaurant. In Japanese, kappo means ‘to cook’. Omakase is a style of dining where the chef determines the menu and pacing of the meal. Guests are placed in the chef’s hands. In the literal sense, omakase translates to, “I trust you, Chef.”

I can’t speak for everyone in the community, but I couldn’t wait to put my trust in Chef Ogawa.

Click here for my 10 tips on how to get a reservation at the world’s best restaurants

Meet The Chef at Kappo Makoto

Chef Ogawa is no stranger to the sushi counter. In fact, most Washingtonians are well aware of his culinary expertise. Not only is he the chef/owner of his namesake restaurant in Kalorama, Sushi Ogawa, but he is also Mr. Wilder’s partner-in-crime at Zeppelin, in Shaw. A second-generation sushi chef from Japan, Chef Ogawa was a personal friend of the late Chef Yoshiaki Itoh and his son, Gene.

During much of Kappo Makoto’s 13-month build-out, Ogawa lived in Japan, yet he was always in touch with Wilder and the design team. He wanted to make sure Kappo Makoto captured the essence and nostalgia of Makoto. Original doors and shelving were salvaged. Bold, colorful tiles were added. According to Mr. Wilder, the Palisades community couldn’t have been more supportive of the venture, often stopping him on the street to ask how long until opening night.

Little Tokyo in the Palisades

You needn’t have spent any time in Tokyo to understand how accurately Kappo Makoto recreates a traditional Japanese restaurant. As Ari Wilder overhears time and again, guests feel they are being transported to Japan. Having lived in Tokyo years ago, I wholeheartedly agree. Kappo Makoto could just as easily be found on a backstreet in Ginza.

That the space is windowless certainly helps. Once beyond the sliding screen door, there are no outside references to remind me I’m just a mile from my house, my kids, and my two snoozing dogs. The counter has nine stools—front-row seats for Chef Ogawa’s culinary performance. The curtain rises. Sake is poured. The courses start to arrive.

Chef Ogawa lovingly and meticulously crafts his dishes. Concentric circles of calm radiate from him, which in turn, envelop the entire room. Jazz notes rise imperceptibly as the restaurant fills up. The atmosphere becomes livelier and guests at the sushi counter begin to make conversation. The family vibe of Kappo Makoto’s team ripples throughout the room.

Edo-mae style at Kappo Makoto

Ogawa prepares edo-mae-style sushi, which means the fish is sourced directly from markets in Tokyo. Kappo Makoto’s omakase consists of eight courses, five of which are wagyu-focused. Tonight’s menu begins with a wagyu summer salad. My nose detects a smoky scent well before our server tells us the wagyu is grilled over Binchō-tan charcoal, reportedly the purest charcoal on Earth.

My textured glass plate is a carnival of color. It highlights yellow tomatoes, orange uni, green leaves, and red, juicy, seared wagyu. I snap a picture and savor my first bite. Every course delights the senses. Every ingredient is placed with intent. From the creamy, briny, uni atop our sashimi to the smooth, silky egg custard of patiently steamed chawanmushi.

Ogawa’s sashimi course is a trio of artfully-plated raw fish dishes that explode with flavor. A ceramic leaf showcases thinly sliced cucumber and pickled ginger. A dollop of caviar tops the delicate fish. Each plate is as engaging aesthetically as it is to the palate.

Our next course is called Wagyu Menchi Katsu. I remember Katsu having something to do with food being fried. I apologize to my arteries and dive in. Menchi Katsu is my favorite bite of the night. It’s a delicately breaded and deep-fried minced wagyu bite that slowly melts in my mouth.

The courses continue, and I think every bite is the best bite of the night. If this annoys my husband, he doesn’t say. Maybe that’s because he’s too busy enjoying the sake, the crisp, Pouilly-Fuissé, and the Coravin pour of a decadent Napa Valley cabernet. Or, maybe he is thinking the very same thing.

Kappo Makoto: Neighborhood vibes, Destination-worthy

With Kappo Makoto, Wilder, and Ogawa have created a destination-worthy restaurant that maintains a neighborhood vibe. At $150 a person, a special occasion dining experience for neighbors could be more accurate. I have lots of special occasions coming up—like my dog’s birthday, my daughter heading off to college, and my other dog’s birthday.

I hope everyone—the farmer’s market shoppers, the Sunday Post readers, the lycra-clad peloton, the people in line for lattes, and Maria Garcia, join me in saying irasshaimase.

Welcome to the neighborhood, Kappo Makoto.

Click here for my 10 tips on how to get a reservation at the world’s best restaurants

August 11, 2023
The end of the road in José Ignacio, Uruguay
Travel to Uruguay’s famous small town /

Depending on when you travel to Uruguay’s José Ignacio, you could either find a sleepy fishing village or a crowded jet setter’s playground. Chances are, you will love José Ignacio either way, as there is just so much to fall in love with. Well off the beaten path and fantastically difficult to get to, José Ignacio combines some of our favorite things in one place: untouched beaches, casual but fabulous food, and a chill vibe. Lunch at the rustic beach shack Parador La Huella, a Jose Ignacio see-and-be-seen scene, starts at 2pm and runs into dinner.

Travel to Uruguay For José Ignacio’s Under the Radar glam

Dirt roads with hand-painted signs add to the casual chic-ness of José Ignacio. But don’t be fooled, it is incredibly under-the-radar glam. Tiny pop-up boutiques along the beach roads are charming and then juxtaposed with a bright red Ferrari, which you soon realize isn’t unusual in José Ignacio. Imagine the Hamptons fifty years ago, as that starts to give you an idea of what to expect from this tiny strip of land, sandwiched between two beaches, a little over an hour from Montevideo.

As we decided to travel to Uruguay in the off-season, there were fewer Ferraris and more bicycles, and we were able to get around easily enough. Our resort, Bahia Vik, had bikes on hand for all of us, but we could have just as happily walked into town. The long vast beach line was so untouched and relatively tourist-free in March, perfect for kite flying as we soon discovered. There are so few people and so much to explore along the craggy coast.

At one point, my husband started to look for music to accompany his beach yoga session and quickly realized that he was already listening to the perfect playlist, the beach sounds were soft and soothing. No Spotify is necessary.

Travel to Uruguay For José Ignacio’s Estancia Vik

My daughter and I took advantage of Bahia Vik’s sister property, Estancia Vik, which is ten minutes away, for a half-day horseback ride. Horses are generally not my thing, but the riding was gentle, and the scenery majestic. Trotting along the expanse of rolling hills of the estancia for a few hours was incredibly peaceful and serene. It is surprising to see the landscape change from sand, dunes, and rock to pure forest in the span of a few miles.

We spent six nights in this little corner of Uruguay and could have stayed longer. It was a lifestyle I could see myself adopting. I imagine the high season is as crazy as the low season is sleepy. About a mile down the beach from us was the third Vik property, Playa Vik, which was severe and angular, and thoroughly modern in design.

The pool, with its dark blue water and underlighting of stars, jutted out towards the sea like a knife. I have never seen another pool like it. We ordered the house wine and sat on the pool’s edge for sunset more than once. Then, we retreated to the nearby firepit to get warm as the sun disappeared.

Travel to Uruguay For A touch of France in José Ignacio

One restaurant that kept drawing us back (until the waiter knew not only our wine choice but our kids’ names) was Almacen El Palmar. The menu is French, surprisingly. Part bakery, part market, part outdoor garden, it is intriguing mostly because of how unassuming it looks.

A hand-painted group of signs greets you on the path, pointing you toward Peru, Spain, and Japan. The France sign points you to the front door. It looks so low-key you might not expect anything from the food. We loved the low-buzzy atmosphere (and the food!) so much that we went back three times. An unusual move for a family that prides itself on never doing the same thing twice.

While there was much to do in and around José Ignacio, such as horseback riding, olive oil tastings, and touring nearby Punta del Este, we realized the most beautiful thing about José Ignacio was just settling into it and letting go.

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Travel to Uruguay For A Taste Of Tannat

Tannat is the bold, savory, spicy red grape that has put Uruguayan wines on the map. Bodega Garzón is a perfectly modern, slick, 85-million-dollar property from which to taste it. Uruguay has much to offer oenophiles the world over. Lovingly called the Tuscany of Uruguay, wine lovers travel to Uruguay to experience the unique wines and admire the rolling hills and hectares of vines.

Travel to Uruguay

Travel to Uruguay for the wine, the beaches, the beach shacks, and the remote hotels. Stay for the vibe and the scenery. José Ignacio’s under-the-radar style is a breath of fresh air—miles from the expected. Time to get there before the secrets of José Ignacio are secrets no longer.

Check availability at Bahia Vik here!

Five reasons to get lost in José Ignacio, Uruguay:
- The starry-bottomed architectural and gravitational wonder of a pool at Playa Vik.
- Trying the Tannat, Uruguay’s star red grape.
- Sinking into a three-hour lunch at Parador La Huella…barefoot.
- The nightly fire pits at Bahia Vik and Play Vik will motivate you not only to have one more drink but to maybe engage in conversations with strangers.
- Opening the doors to Playa Vik around sunset, and being temporarily blinded by rays as you head out towards the pool. Remember that scene in Indiana Jones when the sun finally hits the staff in the right place to reveal the location of the ark? That kind of blinding light.
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March 1, 2023
Is The Ryokan Nobu In Malibu Worth The Trip?

Ryokan Nobu in Malibu was named the #1 Best Resort Hotel in the continental U.S. by Travel + Leisure’s World’s Best List. Nobu in Malibu is one of the most sought-after dinner reservations on the west coast, located along California’s famed Pacific Coast Highway. Is all this Nobu-centric press well-deserved?

The Nobu Ryokan, In Malibu. What’s a Ryokan?

Having spent time in a few ryokans while living in Tokyo, I was a bit skeptical about the highly anticipated Nobu Ryokan opening in Malibu. Owned by a combination of high-profile celebrities, business magnates, and Chef Matsuhisa, it had quite a force of power behind its amber-colored walls.

By definition, a ryokan is a ‘traditional Japanese-style inn’. It features tatami-matted rooms, low wooden tables, shoji sliding doors, and an onsen (natural hot spring). How would Nobu pull off a minimal Japanese guest house experience just steps off the Pacific Coast Highway in Malibu?

As it turns out, the term ryokan is taken rather loosely at Nobu in Malibu. However, if you are aware of that upfront, you won’t be disappointed. It’s a stunning beachfront property. The Nobu Ryokan sits on exclusive Carbon Beach. It has 17 rooms and suites, all ocean-facing, which feel intimate, exclusive, and surprisingly—given its location, quiet.

Nobu Malibu and Billionaire’s Beach

Interestingly, the part of Carbon Beach where the Nobu Ryokan resides was once a 1950s motel called Casa Malibu Inn, which Oracle co-founder, Larry Ellison bought in 2007. Carbon Beach has often been referred to as Billionaire’s Beach, as it has many celebrity homeowners. Who doesn’t want an ocean view in Malibu?

The beach is a 1.5-mile-crescent shape that extends from Malibu Pier towards Santa Monica. It’s surprising to see so many rickety and run-down homes, (easily mistaken for shacks on stilts) next to multi-multi-million dollar homes.

Until recently, it was nearly impossible to reach Carbon Beach from the street, as there were no pedestrian access points. Homeowners along the beach had been creative to keep the tourists and beachcombers at bay. Fake garages, ‘No Entry’, and ‘No Trespassing’ signs littered the highway, strategically placed to keep people out. That eventually changed. Yet, it’s still a challenge to reach, which makes Nobu Malibu’s beach property all the more exclusive.

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Nobu Malibu: Dining

Nobu’s ocean-side restaurant is just a stone’s throw from the ryokan, separated only by the ultra-modern and buzzing members-only Soho House. Nobu erases the need for an in-house restaurant but also erases the intimacy of the in-room ryokan dining experience. To that end, the food is not included in the price of the room, as it is in a traditional ryokan.

A typical ryokan meal, known as kaiseki, is about small and varied plates, as well as seasonal and regional ingredients. Each course is artfully designed, with hidden culinary flavors on each plate, sometimes within a single bite. In my eyes, it is the essence of what makes a ryokan stay so unique.

Room service is available from the restaurant, and the food is in line with what you would expect from a superstar transplant chef from Japan. Nobu Matsuhisa has catapulted himself into a worldwide brand, and you would think with so many irons in the fire that his brand might suffer. It didn’t seem to be suffering at the restaurant, a full house every night.

It feels just like the set of Entourage. In a meta moment, we see the real Turtle and ‘E’ wander in for dinner. Not surprisingly, they don’t endure an hour’s wait for a table. However, a perk of staying at the Nobu Ryokan is that we get reservations at the restaurant. We take full advantage of this perk.

At The Nobu Ryokan in Malibu, it’s minimal

The staff at the ryokan is as minimal as the decor. Or, at least it appears that way. Aside from the general manager, Ms. Eng, we hardly see a soul throughout our stay. There is the occasional gardener tending the tropical flora or skimming the man-made ponds, but we went hours without seeing anyone at all.

Ms. Eng has a bright, breezy, and effortless way about her, magically appearing when needed and seeming to disappear into thin air when we don’t. Ms. Eng was once quoted, “You go to Nobu’s restaurant and Soho House to see and be seen—but you come to the ryokan to not be seen”.

Nobu in Malibu, hidden in plain sight

The gardens and architecture are reasons alone to visit the Nobu Ryokan. It’s hidden in plain sight directly on the Pacific Coast Highway. Enter through the double-thick automated wooden doors and leave the world behind. The Pacific Ocean lies directly ahead.

A winding stone path, natural water features, an outdoor fireplace, and an elevated deck with expansive white umbrellas are all that sits between us and the sea. However, only guests of the ryokan can catch a glimpse of the Jerusalem limestone, the koi ponds, or the enormous, overflowing potted plants.

The shallow-pitched and flat roof-topped buildings naturally blend into the hilly California backdrop. The colors are warm and toasty, the sun always creating new colors to the palette, the thunder of the ocean waves walloping onto the shore.

Iconic California palms abound, as do lush flora and fauna. The gardens, while small, are beautiful. Rocky paths guide us around the property, and Japanese stone lanterns are nestled into the landscape.

It’s in the details at Nobu in Malibu

We lunch on the deck upon arrival, soaking up ocean views, while waiting for our room. I have lobster shiitake salad with spicy lemon dressing, the first of many wonderful Nobu Malibu meals. The umbrellas offer enough shade to shield us from the sun, yet allow us to enjoy the unobstructed sea views.

We then head to our suite and immediately decide we are staying put for the rest of the afternoon. Everything we need is in place. An assortment of teas, a Nespresso machine, a large deck with sunscreen and towels, and two beach chairs prepared for us on the sand below. The idea that the PCH is less than a few hundred feet behind us seems impossible.

Our room is beautifully appointed with maple-syrupy teak wood. Warm, natural sunlight pours in from the skylights. As Japanese ryokans go, Mr. Matsuhisa’s interpretation is certainly a high-end version of the genre. While it’s not quite as spare and doesn’t offer the traditional Japanese onsen experience, it does have a deep tub in which I happily soak for hours.

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Beauty and the Bath at the Nobu Ryokan

The bathroom is by far one of the ryokan’s best features. This is due mainly to the incredible use of light, and how it graphically and organically plays out through the windows. The shadows create strong geometric patterns that shift throughout the day.

The honeycomb colors make the bathroom appear drenched in the sun, even at night. Never underestimate the power of a soft amber lightbulb. A deep, teak, soaking tub with bath salts and traditional Japanese details makes the loss of a true onsen a distant memory.

A Japanese yukata, or robe, is on hand. The Japanese layer the left side of the yukata over the right, the opposite of what we do here in the West. If layered in Western style, it signifies mourning.

At Ryokan Nobu in Malibu: It’s Hospitality For The Win

There are plenty of traditional Japanese touches, of course, but I don’t feel like I’m in Japan, and perhaps that is not Matsuhisa’s intent. Yet, I don’t feel I’m in a Disney-fied version of Japan either. It is merely this, a California interpretation of a Japanese inn.

The Nobu Ryokan Malibu’s website writes about the art of Japanese hospitality, omotenashi. The service certainly comes close to its Japanese counterpart, and as I mentioned, Ms. Eng could not have been more in tune with our needs. We discover that the only way to secure a reservation for the inn is by email, as there is no telephone number or even a reservations department, per see.

Malibu Farm

We wander down the coast for dinner. Situated at the base of the iconic circa 1905 Malibu Pier, and wallowing in its shabby chic-ness is Malibu Farm. The crowd is a mixed bag, young and old, tourists, and locals alike. Buzzy and convivial. Well-placed hanging tealights create a low-key yet festive vibe.

The food is good, and I enjoy a perfectly seared skirt steak with a balsamic and fig marinade. However, the fiery disk of the cadmium orange setting sun is the showstopper. It definitely isn’t the chairs, or should I say, the low, hard wooden stools that we sit upon. But the sunset is a hit, and I happily sit in discomfort for hours watching the ocean views.

The sister breakfast spot up the pier, Malibu Farm Café, is equally shabby. Maybe even more so. The kind of place where I feel compelled to tip, despite the fact that I stood in line to order food, and had to bus my own table afterward. The coffee is energizing, hot, and in big ceramic mugs, so that makes up for a lot.

Malibu Pier is as insta-ready as it gets, and if you are lucky with a bright blue sky (unlike us) and a rare moment when tourists aren’t lining the pier, you can get a lovely shot.

Malibu Views at The Nobu Ryokan

Admittedly, I have a Western view of the Far East and an Eastern view of the Pacific Northwest. That said, I probably need more than three days at Nobu in Malibu to truly get under the surface. I am willing to do more research.

However, as much as I like the ryokan with its simple subtle lines, minimalistic decor, and prime beach location, I’m not sure it can justify its staggering price tag. I imagine some who are more familiar with traditional Japanese culture would consider it a bit of a gimmick.

I give the Ryokan at Nobu in Malibu kudos for its many accomplishments. It left me wondering, though, whether it’s a traditional Japanese Ryokan or a cleverly branded boutique hotel.

Let me know what you decide.

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January 29, 2023
On Being Imperfecto, The DC Restaurant Review

Imperfecto fired up an already hot trending restaurant scene in Washington DC. Today, Chef Enrique Limardo has three fabulous DC restaurants to rule over in his crisp, chef’s whites. What makes Imperfecto so darn near perfect? It’s all in the details.

DC is a culinary wasteland.

This was my first thought when we moved to DC from Tokyo in 2010. It isn’t because I’d spent nearly four years in the world’s foodie capital (with 202 Michelin stars, the most of any city, I dare you to disagree). It isn’t because I’d lived in NYC and eaten my way through every ethnic culture known to mankind. And, it isn’t because I’m a food snob.

It’s because at our first DC restaurant experience (and I concede that choosing Japanese was a bad opening move) I saw a line cook squeeze wasabi onto a sliver of ahi tuna from a plastic ketchup container. If you don’t recognize the issue here, please click that little red circle on the top left of your screen.

Maybe I am a food snob.

DC’s culinary landscape has shifted dramatically since then. At one time, Washington DC restaurants were considered stuffy, stale, and lacking in identity. The change over the last decade has been gradual, yet on a clear upward trajectory. Restaurant standouts like Pineapple and Pearls, Rose’s Luxury, and Komi influenced the scene early on. Michelin didn’t even deem DC worthy of its own guide until 2016.

That’s about when DC woke up and started to get cooking.

For us, you could say it was perfect timing. Or, depending upon how you see it—ever so slightly imperfect.

Introducing Imperfecto

Imperfecto isn’t even a speck on the Epicurean map when we unpack our worldly possessions in the nation’s capital. Yet, I’d be surprised if the seeds of Chef Enrique Limardo’s restaurant venture weren’t already planted.

Chef Enrique Limardo made his DC restaurant debut with Seven Reasons in 2019 after being the Executive Chef at the highly-acclaimed Alma Cocina Latina, in Baltimore. Before then, he honed his creative talents in Spain and in Venezuela—his home country. Along the way, Chef Limardo’s intent on globalizing the kitchen gained traction and attention. He lovingly fuses flavors and ingredients from the Mediterranean to the Amazon.

DC’s West End neighborhood is pretty far from the Amazon. So named because it sits at the westernmost end of DC’s original L’Enfant Urban Plan, West End is now a virtual hotbed of luxury hotels and restaurants. This may be due, in part, to the long ago initiative “to bring life to a declining part of the city.” A successful initiative, indeed.

In 2021, DC’s West End became known for Imperfecto. Its Michelin-star rating makes Imperfecto a sparkling addition to its bevy of upscale restaurants.

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Thinking Big, At Imperfecto

How can a large open-plan dining space with ultra-high ceilings convey both an air of intimacy and extreme conviviality? It’s a bold design risk—as many restaurants choose to carve up space with cleverly executed drop ceilings, or floating walls, in order to create more privacy. Imperfecto embraces its cavernous space with a zestiness that rivals its shishito purée.

The Athens and Stockholm-based design firm OOAK can take a deep bow. By choosing contrasting elements (think brass and marble combined with wood and terracotta) and Mediterranean-influenced colors, the team at OOAK creates an eye-popping space that somehow doesn’t distract from the reason you’re there in the first place.

Dangling light fixtures and massive asymmetrical beams offset the dining room’s space. Three concrete beams emerge from the floor like colossal stalks of bamboo. The rich, nautical blue-painted ceiling creates a reverse anchor to the room while simultaneously paying homage to the colors of the Mediterranean.

Imperfecto’s risk pays off. Although far from quiet, the layout is thoughtfully imagined. I can easily hear every word my husband says (whether I want to or not). I hear ambient laughter, glasses clinking, and the festive popping of corks—a sublime soundtrack to any fine dining experience.

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Raising the Bar, at Imperfecto

I look through an enormous glass wall into the lively dining room of Imperfecto. It’s muted from where I stand on the sidewalk outside. I open the door and hear the welcoming buzz and hum of a restaurant at its nightly peak. I’m enchanted.

A one-of-a-kind burl wood check-in stand is both sculptural and functional. From there, we turn right and see two enormous arches with rock-quarry-inspired murals looming above the bar. The underlit array of liquor bottles could be considered an interactive art installation. Art, artsy, and more museum-worthy details abound. Comfy crimson bar stools are ready and waiting.

The bar is well-tended, with servers who love their craft and prove it with every pour. As a graphic designer in my past life, I became obsessed with the genius use of stemware icons on the cocktail list. I love being able to choose my poison based on the glass shape. I’m not alone. The drinks are also works of art, seasonal, and a delight to imbibe.

Driven partly by the beautifully shaped coupe, I choose the Imperfecto Club. Grey Goose vodka with limoncello, a splash of fresh pineapple juice, and vanilla syrup. My husband gets the Double ‘O’ Seven, channeling his inner James Bond. If there’s ever a place in DC to feel like an international man of mystery, Imperfecto is that place.

We give up our cushy barstools somewhat reluctantly—yet eager to continue the Imperfecto experience.

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What’s in a name?

Naming a restaurant Imperfecto is a brilliant way to offset any criticism. Yet, I am hard-pressed to find much to complain about. I visited Imperfecto three times in the past year and two out of those three times the service was superb. The other time was just shy of superb.

We glide to our table. Along the way, we pass a wall of terracotta-designed ‘M’s that discreetly mimic the Imperfecto logo. Yet another well-executed design element in a well-executed space. Further along, an open carving station is displayed like a culinary side show—a clear incentive to order whatever the chef is grilling.

Chef Limardo changes the menu often, making it all too easy to return. We dine on inventive creations like Moussaka Cigars. Light, flaky, phyllo dough filled with smoked eggplant, ground lamb, pine nuts, and creamy goat/manchego cheese. Each ingredient is well-defined yet melds together seamlessly.

Never one to pass up on a subterranean fungus, I opt for the Truffle Tagiolini as my main. Homemade pasta with a sweet corn cream sauce topped with chopped asparagus, Pecorino cheese, and of course, a pile of shaved truffles.

For those who like to be told what to eat, and in what order, the Chef’s Tasting Menu is the way to dine at Imperfecto. Prepare to be dazzled by each artfully plated course, ever-changing platters, and serving pieces. Prepare to test your social media restraint.

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There’s no such thing as Imperfect

DC is no longer a culinary wasteland. Washington DC is riding a rising tide of innovative and creative cuisine. Chef Enrique Limardo has much to do with it. With three restaurants, including the recently opened Joy, by Seven Reasons, there is much for foodies in DC to celebrate.

Thank you, Chef Limardo, for pushing the epicurean boundaries in our ‘stuffy’ city. Thank you for identifying a spot to showcase your talents in ‘a place with no identity.’ I know you’d never squeeze wasabi from a plastic ketchup bottle—as you seem to care as much about the pungent Japanese root as you do an earthy truffle or a crispy plantain.

Your attention to detail at Imperfecto is, well, kind of perfect.

I hope you continue to prove the DC bashers wrong and the Michelin gods right. As long as you keep evolving the menu and using those cute little stemware icons, I won’t stop visiting.

So tell me, Chef, did I get the details correct? If not, please let me know.

And just remember, no one’s perfect.

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November 14, 2022

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