“Where’s Mérida?” you wonder, and “Why should I go there?” I’m happy you asked. Mérida, Mexico is the capital city of the Yucatán State. Its simple luxuries fly under the radar in terms of typical Mexican tourist destinations—more rustic, less bells, less whistles, and friendlier on the wallet. Long may that last. Recently, I spent three days uncovering the best of Mérida, Mexico, old school style with a pen and paper. Three days exploring boutiques, boutique hotels, hidden watering holes, and airy rooftop bars.
Was it enough? Not by a hot Mexican mile.
My iPhone lights up. ‘Mérida is ???’ It’s Amy, one of my oldest and closest friends. Is she reporting the weather or preparing me for the fabulousness of Mérida? As of two weeks ago, I couldn’t have found Mérida, or the Yucatán, on a map if you gave me a million pesos.
Yet here I am, booking flights on one computer tab and mapping it out on another. This isn’t me; I don’t fly by the seat of my pants. I get to the airport at least two hours before my scheduled departure time and book restaurants a month out. I prepare for Christmas in August. Planning is my thing.
Until it isn’t.
Why Mérida, Mexico?
Amy and her husband decide to live in Mérida, Mexico for a month, testing a work-from-anywhere model they hope to repeat, if successful. Mérida is the capital of the Yucatán State and is quickly becoming one of the most sought-after destinations to visit in Mexico.
They offer their extra bedroom and plunge pool as an incentive to visit. Amy says she’s already scouted out the best of Mérida, Mexico—no need to research. I’m sold on the plunge pool.
The Best of Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico
Despite the gaping holes in my knowledge about the location, the language, and well, nearly everything about Mérida, I can’t wait to get there. My daughter, Ella seems happy, too. But it’s hard to tell, as her happy face, annoyed face, and indifferent face look so much alike. As ever, I’m optimistic.
Mérida, here we come!
My ‘Best of Mérida’ shortlist follows, fueled by Amy’s insider knowledge and advanced planning. You’d be surprised what can be experienced in three days. Unless you know Amy. Then you wouldn’t be surprised at all. If I’m a travel planner, then Amy is the Marie Kondo of travel planning. She had our life-changing, magical Mérida itinerary tidied up before I could say muchas gracias.
When our plane touches down, I know one thing for sure. Amy’s right, Mérida is hot.
Mi casa es su casa, in Mérida
We grab a taxi and are on our way. Crumbling concrete casas begging to be brought back to life reside next to those which have been lovingly restored. Some with fresh coats of pastel-colored paint, flickering colonial-era lanterns, and glossy wooden doors. They’ve been returned to their original glory. This juxtaposition of old and new is what makes Mérida especially captivating.
Time has taken its toll on the buildings’ bones, but not their souls. I imagine the conquistadors of centuries past roaming these very streets. Its history is palpable. Each turned corner reveals a new palette of watery rainbow-washed colors, glimpses of hidden courtyards, taquerias, and colorful plazas.
The city streets are laid out in a series of perfect right angles. A topographical chessboard of sorts. This layout makes the city accessible to even the most geographically stunted (myself included).
Their Airbnb is on the edge of the historic old town and has a seafoam green facade with bright white trim and a cerulean blue door. A light breeze takes the edge off the midday heat and I hear a woman’s voice singing scales from above. Her undulating notes escape a top-floor window like liberated butterflies.
I quickly discover that music, in one form or another, is woven into the city’s DNA. I’ve only been here 18 minutes, but I know I’m going to love it. 72 hours. The clock is ticking.
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Best of Mérida, Mexico: Hotels
I research hotels anyway, for fun. Yes, I think that’s fun. One day, when I bring my husband here, I’ll know exactly where to stay. The planner in me makes a fleeting appearance. A Google search combined with a chance to wander the city in real-time provides a shortlist of possibilities for my next trip to Mérida. Or possibly, yours.
Coqui Coqui Residences
The five Yucatán-based residences of eternally boutique-chic Coqui Coqui Residences & Spa balance old-world charm with modern-day amenities. I fantasize about hopping from one swoon-worthy locale to the next.
Each residence is part-chic hotel and part-perfumery, with a spritz of tropical glamour. The Mérida location, built in 1903, is an ivory townhouse on a quiet street. It has only one room! I’m dying to see it!
The saleswoman says it’s occupied. That it’s always occupied. She notes my disappointment yet goes on to say the room has not one, but two freestanding bathtubs. The epitome of Belle Epoque style, it also has a private rooftop pool and is accessed via a staircase so elegant Architectural Digest could devote an entire spread to it.
I drown my sorrows by devouring several of Coqui Coqui’s decadent chocolates and testing all of their perfumes. It’s tough to choose a favorite among the Yucatán-inspired fragrances. Should my new signature scent lean towards earthy tobacco or Hawaiian Tropic, circa 1985? I choose coconut. This should be the toughest decision I make all day.
Coqui Coqui’s richly textured ochre-colored walls and black and white marble floors are devastatingly photogenic. Crystal chandeliers drip from double-height ceilings. Velvet poofs and curtains, and gilded golden-framed mirrors convey an uber-chic opulence. I slowly meander around this aromatic sanctuary, taking it all in.
Rosas y Xocolate
Rosas y Xocolate is a duo of the pinkest pink French mansions turned boutique hotel that receives accolades for style and service, not to mention an award-winning restaurant.
I step inside to oooh, ahhhh, and recalibrate my body temperature. Did I mention Merida is hot? The tranquil entry is a respite from the buzzy pedestrian-filled Paseo de Montejo. I continue to meander, which is starting to wear on Ella. She is not a meanderer. Is that her annoyed face or hangry face? I look the other way.
The interior is dark and moody, a break from the dizzying bright blue skies outside. It’s like walking into a warm chocolate cookie. Or, maybe I’m hungry, too. I notice a wall of wine, oversized modern art displayed on a nearby easel, and a sunny outdoor patio for drinks. Rosas y Xocolate has my essentials covered.
Each of the 17 rooms is one-of-a-kind, and all feature handmade chocolate soaps. Now that’s a hotel product I’d love to steal, I mean buy. Splashes of the hotel’s signature shade of rose abound, whether as an accent wall, a throw pillow, or actual blossoms. Bravo, Rosas y Xocolate.
Hotel Cigno
A 19th c. mansion turned boutique hotel, this seven-room property on the outskirts of town has a delicate combination of traditional glamour and modern flourishes. Its azul-painted facade is as welcoming as the cenotes themselves. Hotel Cigno offers excursions and dining experiences to make any gringo feel at home in Mérida. The rooms are reasonably priced, with a splash of old and new Mexican design, and some with private plunge pools to escape the heat.
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Best of Mérida, Mexico: Boutiques and Babkas
Amy and John have been in Mérida, Mexico for three weeks by the time Ella and I arrive. This gives them the chance to narrow down the shops and boutiques worth visiting during our limited time.
The next morning, we enjoy a leisurely breakfast at home. Amy presents an array of flaky croissants including tiramisu, almond-topped, and knotted babkas from Soco, a local artisanal bakery. Soco’s plumped-up pastries could easily compete with boulangeries in Paris.
Its derelict hole-in-the-wall style belies the doughy gems inside. I visit three times in as many days, pretending that Mexican calories don’t count. Or rather, French-inspired, Mexican-made calories don’t count. You get the idea.
Caracol Púrapura, Mérida
Mexican folk art, handmade jewelry, and ceramics are just a few of the treasures to be unearthed at the intersection of Calles 60 and 53. Caracol Púrapura feels more like a museum than a series of local boutiques. Larger-than-life sculptures fill the cavernous space.
Vessels turned from Oaxacan black clay and Huichol beaded bracelets made by Wixárica artisans are on display alongside paintings, handbags, and intricately-designed pottery. These handicrafts preserve the traditions of Mexico while simultaneously supporting the local artists.
Taller Maya, Mérida
After more meandering, I pronounce Taller Maya my favorite boutique. Taller Maya could live as comfortably on Spring Street in Soho as in Mérida. The clean, spare, brightly lit space has unusually high ceilings and an overall breezy feel. I stroll around the store a few times, seeing something new and beautiful with each lap.
Solid marble pedestal bowls, modern wooden furniture, luminous lamps, and hand-woven hammocks only begin to describe the highly-curated wares at Taller Maya. I covet it all, down to the handwoven tortilla warmers. A study in neutrals, and as welcoming as a Tribeca loft. I would have moved in immediately had they offered.
Best of Mérida, Mexico: Sights
Mérida feels real. Perhaps this is the most luxurious thing about it. When so many places in Mexico are tourist-focused to the point of being inauthentic, Mérida nails it without effort. Oh, and it’s incredibly affordable, at least for now.
Plaza Grande, Mérida
We explore the city from the main square, Plaza Grande. Its prismatic energy echos the vibrant buildings and lush grassy knolls. It’s also the home to the magnificent Cathédral of Mérida.
Constructed from Mayan ruins, the Cathédral of Mérida, aka San Ildefonso Cathédral, sits on the east side of Plaza Grande. It’s an imposing 16th-century backdrop to the lively promenades, street vendors, and historical buildings.
But, as far as I’m concerned, the multicolored city sign at Plaza Grande is the end-all-be-all tourist attraction. The best tourist trap/photo op in Mérida, without question. Even Ella liked it.
‘Welcome to Mérida!’, it shouts, in all colors of the rainbow, ‘We’re so happy you’re here!’. I stop to take a photograph just as a real-life rainbow appears behind it. I kid you not. Photo evidence above.
Paseo Montejo, Mérida
On Sundays, the Paseo Montejo, Mérida’s wide, tree-lined street close to pedestrians and cyclists only. Locals and tourists alike stroll the pavement, listen to music, dance, walk dogs, and brunch on verandas. Inspired by the Champs-Élysées and dotted with palatial Beaux-Arts homes, it’s a way to harness the city’s energy while also burning off babka-sized calories.
Best of Mérida, Mexico: Cuisine
Yucatán cuisine is influenced by a combination of local Mayan, Caribbean, Spanish, North African, and Middle Eastern cultures. No wonder food is the center of Mérida’s universe.
That we drink and eat our way through the city is an understatement. Ella sums it up well; ‘We didn’t just go for drinks before dinner, we went for drinks at four different places, and then tacos, before dinner.’ Amy and John know how to live. My people.
Panuchos Yucatecan became my favorite Mexican food, despite my having never heard of it before. Panuchos are two lightly-fried corn tortillas with a thin layer of refried black beans between them. They are topped with chicken, pickled onion, and sliced avocado. Indescribably amazing.
I vow to only eat them in Mexico, for fear they can’t be re-created anywhere else. I grab my pen and add it to my list: ‘Best of Mérida: panuchos’.
El Marlín Azul, Mérida
With humble beginnings as a food truck in Merida’s industrial zone, El Marlin Azul is now considered one of the best places to eat in the city. I can speak to the shrimp ceviche with culinary confidence. Amy and John had bought some from the store the morning we arrived—our first foray into Yucatán cuisine. I make another vow, and add another entry: ‘Best of Merida: ceviche at El Marlín Azul’.
Restaurant Micaela, Mérida
Restaurant Micaela’s website claims its food is a tribute to Nana’s cooking, but the vibe is anything but grandmotherly. With its vivid mural-painted walls, terra cotta tiles, and soft amber lighting, Micaela’s is a hidden gem in the old town. The hustle of its open kitchen further enhances the buzziness. Micaela’s is the kind of place to eat, drink, and linger, which is easy to do when the food is this good.
For the table, we order a variety of appetizers, including Crudo de atún (fresh tuna) and Rellenos de queso Oaxaca, followed by steak, short ribs, and other carnivorous entrées. Micaela’s Nana also notes that cooking is her love language. I hear you Nana—loud and clear.
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Best of Mérida, Mexico: Cocktails and Tacos
Terraza Picheta is said to have the only terrace overlooking the old city of Mérida, Mexico. When we enter the expansive patio just before sunset, it’s clear they’ve won the Mérida lottery for location.
The views are panoramic and dominated in the east by the cathedral. Our rainbow remains a non-stop photo op until I turn around to re-focus my camera on the setting sun.
One round of drinks and a few appetizers are consumed until the sun is gone. Time for dinner—I think.
Not quite. First, a stop for another cocktail and pre-dinner taco at El Lucero, which is where I fall in love with the never-before-heard-of panucho. Lanterns hang at varying heights from an enormous vaulted and thatched roof. Palm trees line the stone walls. Marc Anthony’s smoky tenor fills the room.
Best of Mérida, Mexico: Cocktails, Tacos, and Jenga
Patio Petanca is the complete opposite of Terraza Picheta. Low-key and hidden to Picheta’s upscale and wide-open. But it still makes the list. Petanca’s graffiti-covered metal door opens up to a game lover’s dream—an outdoor space with two boules courts and piles of games to keep one’s mind sharp throughout happy hour.
In Merida, boules is known as petanque, and the sandy game area takes up nearly all of Patio Petanca’s modest space. Amy and John order mezcal. I have a beer. No mom, no one has taken over my blog, I mean, website. I drink beer. But only in Mexico.
A fierce game of Mexican Jenga begins, and it’s Ella who eventually topples the tower. Before she has a chance to complain, a sudden rainstorm has us fleeing for cover under the thatched bar. There we find, really and truly, the world’s best taco.
In case you don’t believe me, Amy, John, and Ella all agree. This is the world’s best taco. Apparently, Petanca has brought in a guest chef from nearby Pico de Gallo much in the way Miami’s LIV would bring in Steve Aoki. Well, not exactly the same way.
We want more tacos but are dangerously late for dinner. Which shouldn’t matter as none of us are hungry anymore. I open my notebook, ‘Best of Merida: tacos at Patio Petanca with guest chef from Pico de Gallo’. My list is growing longer by the minuto.
Best of Mérida, Mexico: Daytrippin’
You don’t have to be super adventurous, a good swimmer, or even like water to enjoy the cenotes of the Yucatán. Trust me. Cenotes are the result of centuries-old, collapsing limestone bedrock that forms underground pools. The Yucatán peninsula has over 7,000 cenotes, some of which are thought to be created by asteroids.
Swimming (or in my case, wading) in freshwater cenotes is an otherworldly experience. Ancient Mayans believed that cenotes were sacred passages to the underworld. I believe they are a refreshing, ethereal escape from the Mexican sun. Undeniably, they are natural stunners and worth the trip out of town.
Santa Barbara Cenotes, Mérida
We visit the Santa Barbara cenotes on a quiet Monday morning, leaving the house at 9am to beat the crowds. Our driver knows exactly where to go, which is reassuring as the directions on the pamphlet have some cenotes-sized holes. ‘Located entrance of Homún. Take the first turning to the right and following road next to police station’. (sic) Hmmm.
The inexpensive entrance fee covers the bikes and life jackets. Despite my poor aquatic skills, I refuse to wear the life jacket. I get reprimanded three times, one in each of the cenotes. Cascabel, Chacsikín, and Xooch’ are within a mile of one another—each is more beautiful than the next.
At Cascabel, we descend a precarious set of wooden steps toward a secret pool of water. Drippy cave sounds plink and plonk, and well-placed underwater lighting makes the setting even more surreal. There are a few other visitors, but not many. Amy and Ella swim the loop in the cave. I don’t. We hop back on our bikes and head to the other cenotes.
The entrance to the Xooch’ cenote is through a moss-covered arch at the bottom of a steep stone stairway. It theatrically opens to a freshwater pool with a wide-open Simpson-blue sky lighting it from above.
Trees hover precipitously on the edge of the crater, their long roots dangling toward the water’s surface. It feels very Jurassic Park circa 1993 and I half expect to see a pterodactyl swoop overhead. Instead, we see equally pre-historic-looking iguanas.
We float and enjoy the sounds of nature. For a full fifteen minutes, we have Xooch’ completely to ourselves. Well, almost. One particularly angry iguana is giving me the side-eye from his perch on the cave wall. Gringos, he must be thinking in his pea-sized brain, vámanos!
Mayapan Ruins, Mérida
Chichen Itza Ruins are one of the most famous Mayan sites in Mexico and for good reason. However, for those who want ruins for themselves, some of the lesser know sites are equally enticing. Mayapan is one of those places, and with a $2.40 entrance fee, there is very little reason not to go. Intrepid guests are free to climb the ancient ruins, at their own risk, naturally.
Mayapan is 25 miles from Mérida, in a pueblo called Tecoh. It’s said that Mayapan may have been the last Mayan city to be built and inhabited. The central pyramid is named the Castle of Kukulcan and I climb its crumbling steps easily, proud of my speed and fearlessness.
Upon reaching the top, panic replaces pride, and my knees buckle. My husband’s voice echoes in my head, ‘Going up is optional. Coming down is mandatory.’ I hate it when he says that. It takes me three times as long to return to Earth. It isn’t pretty, speedy, or fearless. Humbled and sweaty, we head back to Mérida.
Interactive Mérida, Yucatán map with my personal hot spots
Mérida is hot
The unassuming luxuries of the Yucatán and Mérida are found behind crumbling facades, upon makeshift stages, and within subterranean pools of water. At first glance, it appears to be an uncomplicated life. After three days of compiling my ‘Best of Mérida’ shortlist, I realize just how much Yucatán history there is here, below the surface, as deep as the cenotes themselves.
To add a little fuel to the fire, consider this. Three days in Mérida, Mexico will cost less than one at a swanky hotel in Punta Mita. Is budget luxury a thing? It all depends on our definitions of luxury. I have room for both in my travels.
‘Why visit Mérida?’ Because it’s hot. In temperature for sure, but even more so as a destination to visit before the rest of the world finds it. Hopefully, this snapshot of one of Mexico’s most understated, richly colored cities sparks some Marie Kondo-esque joy.
If not, there’s always Cancun.
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Go full-on swanky beach resort in Punta Mita at The Four Seasons.
Head to Mexico’s other Golden City. San Miguel de Allende.
Watch whales from your beach chair at the enchanting Esperanza, in Cabo.
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Tacos, soaking tub and anciet wisdom… I’m sold! You think a plant based eater would survive there? Veggie tacos? Or just do a “grape juice” cleanse the enter time?
I think vegans can survive anywhere! Thx for reading, Colleen! -Jamie
Vegetarian and vegan options are now numerous, unlike when I moved here 10 years ago.
Thank you for the insider knowledge, Jeremy! Much appreciated. I hope to return one day. -Jamie
What a great trip! I’d go for the boutique and stay for the taco. And ohh the faces… how to decipher? Do we care?
I gave up caring ages ago. Glad she wanted to come at all though! xo Jamie
I love this! Thank you for memorializing our awesome time together! And I think Ella wanted to come to see me and Juan! xoxo, Amy
You and Juan were clearly the big draw. And the plunge pool. Loved it all, A. : )
I love that Amy and John are trying out this adventure–Michael and I hope for a similar path someday. What a fantastic experience for you and Ella. Love this one! xo, G
As always, thank you for the comment, Gretchen. I will look forward to visiting you and Michael wherever you go!
Thank you for this meaningful content! It’s a great guide to explore Mérida, Mexico.