Oaxaca is widely considered Mexico’s culinary capital thanks to its deep food traditions, vibrant markets, and complex regional dishes. From its seven varieties of mole and handmade corn tortillas to traditional drinks, and from its thriving restaurant scene that spans street stalls to Michelin-starred kitchens, the best food in Oaxaca reflects centuries of culture, craft, and pride.
How Oaxaca has eluded me for so long is a mystery. Follow along and discover the culinary treasures of this vibrant city.
It’s about 7pm. The sun has set, but the glow of a few well-placed street lamps guides us along a narrow, curved back street. The stucco-painted walls reveal the colors of the rainbow, despite near darkness. As we stroll, pint-sized dogs with outsized personalities yip, yelp, and howl from behind the bars of gated houses.
We round a corner, and I glance past a scuffed, black metal door plastered with flyers and a satin rainbow flag above it. I continue on.
“Too bad it’s closed tonight,” my friend says.
I look around. “What’s closed?” I ask.
“That restaurant… Adamá,” Amy replies. “It’s supposed to be very good.”
I turn back towards the battered door. Hanging discreetly beside the flag is a small red plaque. The unmistakable badge of culinary achievement: Michelin 2025.
I’ve been in Oaxaca for less than two hours and have already stumbled upon one of the city’s epicurean treasures. With 23 Michelin-recognized restaurants, including six Bib Gourmands and two with a star, I wonder if five nights in Oaxaca will be more than my digestive system can bear.
Challenge accepted. Bring on the stars.
Why wah-HAH-kah?
Oaxaca feels like a city built on color. At sunset, the skies remind me of bottles of colored sand I’d fill on the Jersey boardwalk, with layers of blues, purples, and pinks. Vibrant displays of pottery, embroidered fabrics, ceramics, and wood block prints fill storefront windows. Even the chocolates are prismatic—each morsel wrapped like a shimmery, glittering gift.
I’ve come to Oaxaca to visit a college friend and her husband. Each year, they choose a new destination to live and work remotely for six weeks. The last place I joined them was Mérida, a city I knew nothing about, but left completely enchanted by. So when Amy extended the invitation to Oaxaca, a destination I could barely pronounce, I didn’t hesitate.
Typically, I plan my visit about 2-3 weeks into their stay, a strategic way to tap into their favorite bakeries, coffee shops, boutiques, and restaurants. This time is no different. As she’s done in the past, Amy maps out a five-day tour of Oaxaca that would put Rick Steves to shame.
For once, I get to be led rather than lead.
¿Dónde está Oaxaca?
Oaxaca, one of Mexico’s 32 states, is located in the southeastern part of the country. Covering more than 36,000 square miles, it has 300 miles of Pacific coastline, archaeological ruins, colonial architecture, mountains, and valleys.
Oaxaca City, officially Oaxaca de Juárez, is the state’s largest city and is confusingly referred to as just ‘Oaxaca.’ I learn this nuance quickly—much faster than I overcome other linguistic challenges. Why I say ‘Merci’ instead of ‘Gracias’ every time I’m served a drink is baffling. I don’t even speak French.
In Oaxaca, it’s all about the food
Oaxaca may be known for its tropical climate, colorful buildings, captivating murals, and UNESCO World Heritage Site status, but one could argue these are all overshadowed by its cuisine. Nicknamed the Land of Seven Moles (and I don’t mean tiny subterranean mammals), Oaxaca is defined by seven regions, each with its own interpretation of this rich, complex, spicy sauce.
Mole is an acquired taste—one I acquire multiple times in Oaxaca. Like learning to identify the different notes in a red wine, I start to pinpoint characteristics of each style, which are a combination of chili peppers, spices, nuts, seeds, and occasionally chocolate or fruit.
A family will spend years perfecting their mole, guarding the recipe, then passing it on to the next generation like a precious heirloom. When we visit the markets, I see pride in grandmothers’ eyes as they offer us tastings. It’s their family’s past, present, and future wrapped up in a single bite.
Oaxaca Food Tour: Party of Two
John and Amy take a food tour of the city the week before I arrive. By the time I land in Oaxaca, Amy has narrowed down the tour highlights so that we can sample the city at our own pace. I tell my stomach, “You’ve got this,” and we start walking.
I start my day with two things: coffee and The New York Times puzzles. No matter where in the world I wake up, these are constants. For any fellow puzzlers, my Wordle streak is 565 days strong.
Oaxaca coffee exceeds my expectations, and I enjoy the vibe and grounds at Café El Volador so much that I refuse to go anywhere else. Each morning, an elementary school class plays games on the plaza beside it, which only adds to my adoration of this lovable corner café. Cappuccinos in hand, we head outside and soak up the morning sun.
Beyond Tacos and Tortillas—Take a food tour of Oaxaca! Click here.
Mercados and Memelitas
Fully caffeinated, we stroll to Mercado Sánchez Pascuas for tamales. Minerva, the tour de force behind Tamales Cande, was taught her grandmother’s tamale recipe at 11 years old. When we arrive, Minerva is already serving a line of patrons at her small stall.
Amy chooses sweet and savory tamales for us to sample, and at 930am, it’s clear a nap is in my future. I make a mental note to sample, not devour, every dish on the tour.
Our next stop finds us at a tented taco truck where three generations of women work the crowd like a well-practiced dance. One is minding the comal, a smooth, flat cast-iron griddle used for cooking tortillas. The other two are multitasking the orders, food prep, and payment.
We order tacos and memelitas, which are open-face fried corn tortillas topped with various fillings. Tacos del Carmen is legendary in Oaxaca, a street-corner fixture since 1974, with recipes passed down through the generations. I take my plastic plate to a nearby stoop and devour every last bite. So much for sampling.
The Jewels of the Mercado
Mercado Benito Juárez has existed since 1894, making it one of Oaxaca’s oldest and most famous markets. Here, locals rub elbows with tourists, buying everything from baked goods and regional sweets to flowers, footwear, and seafood. It’s a feast for the senses, and we walk the aisles, each named in honor of the state’s regions.
As we wander, I notice woven baskets piled high with insects. I had already tried chapulines (grasshoppers) the night before, as Amy and John were keen to test my taste buds’ limits on arrival.
Chapulines are a common snack, the unlikely jewels of the mercado, and are often found on menus even in the fanciest restaurants. Other edible insects include chicatanas, flying ants (don’t fret, they remove their legs, wings, and heads before cooking them), escamoles (ant larvae), and chincuiles (red worms).
These no-fat, protein-rich bites can be boiled, roasted, toasted, fried, seasoned, or served au naturel. And while I’d ideally like to incorporate 85 grams of protein per day into my diet, boiled bugs are a hard pass.
Mexican Wines, For the Win
Nothing encourages day drinking more than a vacation in Mexico. The combination of warm weather, bustling streets and plazas, and the daylong festive buzz means one is never more than six feet away from a place to imbibe.
While ambling around the Zócalo (Oaxaca’s main square), we sit at an outdoor table for a drink. Nursing my ice-cold Corona, I think there may be no better place to absorb the city’s vibe than from this very spot.
Next, Amy and John lead us to Cuarto de Vino, a nearby bar that serves exclusively Mexican wines. Cuarto’s focus is on small producers and natural wines from Baja and other emerging regions. We sit around the central bar and order a flight of whites. And just like that, our food tour has turned into a bar crawl.
The Best of Oaxaca: A Food Lover’s Guide
There are boundless dining options in Oaxaca, from market stalls to Michelin-starred restaurants. Each rung of the culinary ladder offers plenty of options for hungry tourists. What follows is my curated guide to Oaxaca’s best food. Think of it as your one-stop shop for mapping out the city’s food highlights.
Best Restaurants in Oaxaca
(including Michelin Stars & Bib Gourmands)
Criollo: Helmed by Chef Enrique Olvera of Pujol and Cosme fame, Criollo, one of the city’s chicest dining rooms, is softly lit and deeply atmospheric. On the way to their tables, guests pass tortillas being pressed and cooked on a comal, filling the space with the scent of warm corn. The experience feels soothing and communal—like dinner with family—while a seasonal seven-course tasting menu highlights the depth of Oaxacan cuisine inside a UNESCO Heritage house.
Las Quince Letras: Since 1992, Celia Florián and Fidel Méndez have been seducing diners with their roasted chilies and Creole ingredients. Traditional Oaxacan dishes, including their family’s black mole, are served on a tree-canopied, shaded terrace. (Bib Gourmand)
Ancestral Cocina Tradicional: This simple, beautifully designed, open-air restaurant is tucked away in the residential neighborhood of Xochimilco. Inspired by native ingredients, Ancestral is an off-the-grid spot for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a mezcal Negroni at the bar.
Labo Fermento: After perusing the on-site lab and bodega, get a rooftop table at this low-lit Asia-meets-Latin America hotspot, where fermentation is the culinary theme. Chef-owner Joseph Gilbert and his team conjure ethereal dishes such as fermented tomatillo, huitlacoche kimchi, and my fave: dumplings with quesillo and queso ahumado glazed in a chili oil. Labo is a refreshing change from traditional Mexican fare. (Bib Gourmand)
Levadura de Olla Restaurante: Celebrating the culinary roots of the Sierra Sur region, Levadura de Olla serves atypical ceremonial dishes inspired by the region, including barbacollita tamal (cracked corn, chicken, pork, chilies, and spices), squash blossoms, mole negro, and native Oaxacan tomatoes. (1-Star)
Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante: Alejandro Ruiz pens a love letter to Oaxacan cuisine, with sensational dishes like yellowfin tuna carpaccio, crispy duck tacos, and oregano-scented rabbit. Set within an 18th-century townhouse, guests will fall in love with much more than the food at Casa Oaxaca.
Best Bars in Oaxaca
Cuarto de Vino: A sophisticated, trendy, and convivial wine bar serving an array of Mexican varietals with tapas that effortlessly complement the wines’ flavors.
Tasca El Olivo: A buzzy gastrobar with live music and casual rooftop seating. At El Olivo, food is a family affair, serving tapas, paella, pinchos, and pastas.
Selva Cocktail Bar: If Selva’s mission is to distill the essence of Oaxaca, it overachieves. Named one of the World’s 50 Best Bars by San Pellegrino, Selva takes the art of the cocktail to new levels. Get there before sunset to score one of the two balcony tables overlooking Oaxaca’s magnificent cathedral.
La Popular: Cozy, authentic, and, as the name boasts, incredibly popular. Serving tacos and tortas, as well as spicy soups and salsas, it’s filled with locals enjoying a night out, which is always a good sign.
Best Cafés and Bakeries in Oaxaca
Café El Volador: An intimate, small, and local café, serving everything from rich espressos and luscious hot chocolate to gooey chocolate brownies and guava cheesecake.
Pan con Madre: At this local bakery, good luck choosing just one flaky, buttery pastry. Pair whatever you choose with a silky cappuccino and relax in the courtyard before starting your day.
Boulenc Bakery: With flour sourced from a mill in nearby Nochixtlan, this open-air and hard-to-find local bakery perfects artisan sourdough bread.
Best Street Food and Markets in Oaxaca
Barbacoa El Cabrito (at Mercado 20 Noviembre): Settle into a counter seat and feast on the best goat tacos in town, French-dip-style, with a side of savory consomme.
Tamales Cande (at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas): Known for having some of the top tamales in Oaxaca, don’t miss Minerva’s Tamale Negro, with juicy chicken and black mole.
Super Jugos Angelita (at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas): Looking to quench your thirst after a hot tamale? Turn around. Choose from beet, kiwi, carrot, watermelon, guava, or a combo of any and all of the above at this little juice bar, which sits directly opposite Tamales Cande.
Tacos Del Carmen: Chorizo tacos and memelita con quesillo (fried tortillas with Oaxacan string cheese) are just a few highlights at this lively tented food truck located at the corner of Jesús Carranza and C. de Manuel García Vigil. Cash only.
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Get Local—What to Eat in Oaxaca
Oaxaca is widely considered Mexico’s culinary capital, and the best way to experience it is dish by dish. From smoky moles and crisp tlayudas to sweet Oaxacan hot chocolate, the city’s traditional foods reflect centuries of indigenous and regional influence. If you’re wondering what to eat in Oaxaca, start with these classic dishes.
Empanada: Crispy corn turnover with savory fillings
Tlayudas: Giant toasted tortilla with beans, cheese, and meat
Pozole: Hominy stew with pork and chile
Sopa de Mariscos: Hearty seafood soup
Tamales: Steamed corn masa parcels with savory fillings
Carne Asada: Simply grilled beef, smoky and flavorful
Memelas: Thick corn masa topped with beans and salsa
Quesillo: Mild, creamy, and stringy Oaxacan cheese
Tejate: A cool and frothy traditional cacao and maize drink
Barbacoa: Slow-cooked meat with a rich and savory broth
Tacos al Pastor: Spit-roasted pork tacos with pineapple
Estofado: Sweet-spiced chicken stew with fruit notes
Enchiladas Coloradito: Tortillas in mild red mole sauce
Chapulines: Toasted grasshoppers seasoned with chile and lime
Tacos Dorados: Crispy rolled tacos stuffed and fried
Chile Relleno: Stuffed chile pepper, battered and fried
Enchiladas Suizas and Enchiladas Verdes: Creamy or tangy green-sauce enchiladas
Torta: Mexican sandwich layered with meats and other fillings
Hot Chocolate with Bread: Spiced Oaxacan cacao with sweet bread
In Oaxaca, it’s (also) all about the Mezcal
Yes, the food in Oaxaca is worth writing home about. But let’s not ignore the humble agave, Oaxaca’s most celebrated plant. I have a complicated relationship with tequila, dating back to an unfortunate incident in high school. Fortunately, it’s only after I’ve booked my flight that I discover Oaxaca is the cultural heartland of mezcal, tequila’s more complex cousin.
Amy tells me to relax: “Drinking mezcal isn’t a requirement for visiting, but…” she continues, “I’ve lined up a mezcal tasting for us on Sunday.” My stomach lurches back to the 1980s. Can I travel to the birthplace of mezcal and not give it a chance?
Try a Mezcal Tasting in Oaxaca. Click here!
Mezcal Tasting at Casa Silencio
The ancient towns of Mitla and Matatlan are the epicenters of mezcal production in Oaxaca. Generations of mezcaleros still use traditional, small-batch methods, roasting agave in underground pits, crushing it with stones, and distilling in clay or copper.
We are spending the night at Casa Silencio, a remote boutique hotel just over an hour from Oaxaca City. It’s a working distillery as well as a fascinating example of brutalist architecture set among hectares of agaves. With only six rooms, each named for a natural element, and a destination-worthy restaurant, it’s easy to forgive Amy for the mezcal tour.
The tour takes us over and underground, led by a young, knowledgeable guide who explains the process of making mezcal and its history. After the tour, it’s time for the moment I’ve been dreading. The tasting is set up in the library. Four glasses of mezcal and four small bites from the chef. Our guide encourages us to identify the flavors as we taste.
I sip mezcal #1 and announce that I taste hot pepper and spice. Our guide sips and says he detects guava, sliced apple, and grass. Grrrr. With mezcal #2, I try the fruit route. “Black cherry.” I declare. Our guide smiles and says, “cinnamon.” Discouraged, I wonder if black cherries even grow in Mexico? By mezcal #3, my taste buds are numb. Mezcal #4, I have no memory of.
Despite my tasting failings, the tour is a highlight. I may never be a mezcal aficionado, but I can say with near certainty that I no longer fear it.
Closing Time
It’s about 7am. The sun is rising, and I’m in a taxi starting my long journey home. From the window, I pass purple jacarandas, golden trumpet trees, and soft pink ceiba, all in full bloom. The streets are eerily hushed, which is fine with me. My eyes are puffy, and I’m half asleep.
How could it have taken me until now to discover this humble food mecca in Mexico? Has Oaxaca eluded food lovers worldwide—or just me? That’s the thing about travel, no matter how much we think we’ve seen and experienced, there’s always something more to find. Whether that be a roasted insect, a chocolatey mole, or a leafy succulent that brings me back to 1984.
I pat my stomach, thanking it for allowing me to be so experimental. To try dishes, flavors, and ingredients that have been part of this region’s culinary love language for centuries, but are now mine to savor for the first time.
I wonder how many stars Oaxaca will earn by the time I next visit? I can’t wait to return and find out.
Where to Stay in Oaxaca: My Shortlist
I stayed with friends, but if I had to choose a hotel in Oaxaca, these would be my top picks. Click for details:
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