Category: South Africa

  • How To Pack for an African Safari (Carry-On Only)

    How To Pack for an African Safari (Carry-On Only)

    Are you heading on safari for the first time? An African safari is an adventurer’s travel trifecta—a combination of breathtaking wildlife, stunning terrain, and unparalleled lodging and hospitality. With over 20+ game drives across four countries, I’ve learned a thing or two about how to simplify the preparation for this exciting experience. My packing lists follow—organized into four simple categories. You can also download my ‘Ultimate Safari Packing List’ to have them all in one easy-to-access place.

    And while it’s not necessary to travel with only a carry-on—if you can manage it, you won’t regret it.


    Coach bag

    The first time I went on an African safari was in 2002. It was my honeymoon. My soon-to-be husband had kept it a surprise until check-in at JFK—a gesture that felt romantic then, but would feel utterly controlling now. That’s twenty years of marriage for you.

    A few weeks before departure, Daniel gave me a gift—an overnight bag from Coach. I loved its cherry red canvas exterior, wide shoulder strap, and soft leather details. But as I’d come to expect from many of Daniel’s gifts, it came with a catch. 

    “It’s for our honeymoon!” Daniel chirped excitedly. “Oh, how cool! You mean it’s my carry-on bag?” I questioned, although I already knew the answer.

    tracking in Africa

    Being Prepared Is Isn’t Everything

    How I packed for a three-week trip to an unknown destination in a bag designed for a weekend getaway is baffling. As my faded disposable camera photos show, I packed the wrong clothes, the wrong gear, and way too many shoes. Yet, I can’t recall needing a single thing as we journeyed across Tanzania that June. That’s young love for you. 

    Despite my anecdotal story of unpreparedness, I vowed to be ready when we took our kids on safari years later. I googled safari clothing, what to wear on safari, safari must-haves, and safari packing lists. This time, I’d be prepared. This ain’t no honeymoon.  

    If a similar Google search got you here, congratulations—you have a safari on the horizon. It’s one of the world’s most intense, immersive, engaging, and magical experiences. I’ve been on safari in Tanzania, Botswana, South Africa, and Uganda. With each trip, I fine-tuned my packing skills, filing away tips for my future safari-bound self and my safari-bound friends and relatives. I figured out how to consolidate. And found my safari style without entirely forgoing fashion. I made peace with layers and colorless clothes.

    on safari

    Safari Style 101

    Safaris are considered once-in-a-lifetime experiences due to their high costs and far-flung locations. It’s painful to shell out even more money for clothing you may never wear again.

    Thankfully, safari clothing need not be expensive. The best way to dress for a safari is modestly and with a neutral color palette. Take advantage of a high/low buying strategy. This means spending more on certain pieces (like a good fleece or puffer) to balance items (like underlayers) where you can safely compromise fashion and durability.

    Bush plane

    In Africa, It’s All About Layers

    Safari game drives typically occur around sunrise and sundown. You don’t need David Attenborough to tell you these are the times of day when wildlife is most active. Unfortunately, these coincide with the times of day I am least active. But safari is well worth going outside of your comfort zone! Be suspicious of an outfitter that advertises a noon game drive. The leopards and lions will be enjoying a midday siesta. You should consider one, too. Game drives are tiring.

    As for safari clothing, it’s all about layering. Think about a tank top base layer, a lightweight, long-sleeved mid-layer, and a fleece and puffer outer layer. The thin mid-layer will be your new BFF, as it will protect your skin from the sun and pesky tsetse flies. Lightweight, long pants are better than shorts despite the temperature for the same reason. Invest in a good fleece and puffer, as you will wear them daily and likely beyond Africa.

    sunset

    And it’s all about the Sun

    Mornings in Africa are typically cool. You’ll be awake before the sun. Sunrises and sunsets are another reason why we go to Africa. The muted layers of the terrain will morph and change as the day breaks, adding another level of awe to an already awe-inspired morning. Sunsets are equally mesmerizing—with no air pollution or city lights to spoil them.

    As the temperatures rise, slowly peel off your layers. Settle into the sounds of the savannah. Get your camera ready and listen to your all-knowing guides. The fun is about to begin.

    Author and husband on safari

    Safari Clothing Packing List:

    2 x base layers (tank or short-sleeved shirts)
    2 x mid-layers (lightweight and long-sleeved, neutral colors)
    * 1 x fleece (neutral color)
    * 1 x lightweight puffer (I like this one from Patagonia because it folds down to the size of a paperback)
    1-2 linen shirts and/or shorts or, for women, a wrinkle-free dress (for evenings around the firepit comparing wildlife sightings, also doubles as a nice outfit for layover city days)
    2 x lightweight pants (zip-off ones are popular; I don’t know why)
    Buff (for dust, flies, and keeping hair off your face—the uses of a good buff are endless)
    2 x sports bras 
    7 x underwear (many lodges have complimentary laundry)
    7 x socks (at least two thicker and longer pairs to go over pants if on a walking safari or a trek in Uganda. Otherwise, prepare to meet the local fire ant community.)
    Hat (wide-brimmed to protect your neck and, yes, neutral)
    * Hiking shoes (broken in, in advance)
    Closed-toe shoes or sneakers 
    Flip flops (for hanging around the pool)
    1 x bathing suit (it’s tempting to take more—don’t. This isn’t Cabo.)

    * Splurge-worthy item


    Click here for my free ‘Ultimate Africa Safari Packing Lists’


    lion on Canon camera

    Gearing Up

    The right gear is integral to a safari experience, especially for wannabe wildlife photographers, bird nerds, and travel bloggers. But gear is cumbersome. Choose what to pack with care. Unless you’re applying for a job at Nat Geo, an iPhone may suffice—they take beautiful photos. My go-to is a combo—an iPhone (hanging from a lanyard around my neck at all times) and a Canon Rebel SL2, which is lightweight, user-friendly, and has WI-FI capabilities so I can post to Instagram in real-time. 

    Safari Gear Packing List:

    * Luggage (Eagle Creek is my go-to choice; this is my pick)
    Packing cubes (Eagle Creek packing cubes have endless uses: toiletries for plastic-free countries, dirty laundry, souvenirs)
    iPhone and charger
    iPhone lanyard (Somewhat dorky, yes—but you’ll thank me when baboons don’t steal your phone)
    * Camera and lenses (one good zoom will do—they’re expensive, consider renting one)
    Extra battery and/or SD card
    * Binoculars (sometimes provided, but having your own is worthwhile—these are the ones I use)
    Sunglasses
    Day pack (for your gear)
    Universal Travel Adapter (this is the one I have)

    * Splurge-worthy item

    White rhinos in Africa

    Little Things Count

    Don’t let the length of the following list scare you. In total, these self-care items take up less space than that extra pair of shoes you won’t wear. But little things count—especially things that protect our bodies and minds in one of the most unforgiving places on Earth.

    Safari Self-Care Packing List:

    Sunscreen (transferred into CVS travel-sized containers you can dispose of as you go)
    Lip balm with SPF
    Insect repellent (The National Capital Poison Center recommends a concentration of DEET no higher than 30%)
    Eye mask (this one is my go-to)
    Ear plugs (although the nightly chorus of wildlife is a highlight of safari) 
    Prescription meds (cute pillboxes are all the rage)
    Small medical kit (a nod to my paramedic husband, who doesn’t go to Safeway without one)
    Feminine products (because there’s no CVS in the Okavango Delta)

    Landscape

    Less is Less

    It’s human nature to be overprepared, especially in a place as foreign and remote as Africa. If you’ve chosen a reputable safari outfitter with your travel advisor, then you need not worry. Anything critical you may have forgotten will be taken care of. Strive to pack less. Make a carry-on bag a goal. Feeling unencumbered on a trip with so many moving pieces is liberating. 

    But no matter what you pack in, some things don’t belong on a safari in Africa. 

    What Not to Pack Packing List:

    Perfume (or creams/moisturizers with a strong scent that will attract or repel wildlife)
    Fine jewelry (the rhinos don’t care how many David Yurman bangles you have)
    Plastic bags (some countries, like Rwanda, are polythene-free)
    Dressy clothes and shoes (safari is decidedly casual)
    Drones (restricted in many African countries)
    Hair dryers (most lodges will have them)
    Anything you haven’t worn in the last 12 months (you think you’ll wear it in Africa—we all know you won’t)


    Click here for my free ‘Ultimate Africa Safari Packing Lists’


    Cheetah portrait

    Prepare to see the Unexpected

    One of the best things about an African safari is that anything can happen. One day, you might come across a pride of lions feasting on a wildebeest. On another, an elephant might stroll through your camp during lunch. At night, you may hear a pack of wild dogs on the hunt or discover a bush baby running circles around the inside of your tent.

    These moments define the experience—the moments you’ll retell at the firepit at night. Safari is fueled by adrenaline. Those who choose to go on safari are a self-selecting group of adventure seekers. Where the unexpected is expected, even sought out. Otherwise, we’d just go to the zoo.

    And while surprises are part of the thrill, some aren’t welcome. A few tips follow, most of which I learned from experience. 

    monkey in uganda

    Safari Travel Tips

    Luggage tip: Space in a carry-on bag is limited. So wear your heaviest items on the plane when possible. This includes hiking shoes and your fleece or puffer. You can read more about how I pack and my general packing tips here.

    Safari Planning Tip: Using a travel advisor to plan a safari makes it a stress-free experience. They work with the most well-known and reputable outfitters and can access perks and surprises you won’t get if you book it yourself. I use CIRE for all of my travel bookings. To learn more about why I use a travel advisor, read my post, “Who Needs a Travel Advisor? It Turns Out I Do.”

    Visa, vaccine, and passport tips: Travel advisors will be on top of the visa and vaccine requirements, but checking in advance is helpful. While you’re at it, make sure you have at least six months and one or more free spreads of passport space from the departure date of your trip.

    Clothing tip: As mentioned earlier, wearing neutrals is vital. But why? Colors to avoid wearing include red, yellow, orange, black, dark blue, and camo. Each of these colors has its own set of issues. In many African countries, camouflage is strictly reserved for the military. Dark colors attract tsetse flies, while bright colors make you look like prey. (Looking back at my color choices in 2002, it’s remarkable I’m alive.)

    Silverbacks

    Laundry tip: Many luxury lodges and tent camps include daily laundry. This removes the need for more clothes (and too many pairs of underwear). Get over the fact that you may wear the same pants five times. At least they will be clean. And nobody but you will notice anyway.

    Gear tip: Bring a small daypack in the Land Rover each morning. It’s a safe place to keep all those layers tidy and dust-free for future use.

    Tipping tip: If tipping makes you uncomfortable and anxious, consider choosing an outfitter that includes all gratuities. While the embedded tipping costs most certainly increase the cost of the trip, there are no awkward moments or need to fumble with local currency.

    Insurance tip: A must. Don’t leave home without it.

    Sunset Africa

    What is the Purpose of this Day?

    We wake up at the crack of dawn. It’s still dark. The only sounds I hear are buzzing insects and the rustle of leaves in the breeze. Without speaking, the four of us trudge to the jeep, where our guide, Foster, waits with a wide smile. He looks at my 13-year-old daughter, who’s radiating snarky, salty tween vibes. She’s not smiling.

    “What is the purpose of this day?” Foster says to her in a slow, enchanting baritone. With sleep in her eyes, Ella looks up. I look up, too. Ella doesn’t know. I don’t know. Who thinks about things like that? Foster does.

    But I want to know. I’m guessing Ella does, too, based on how quickly she hops in the jeep. Foster revs the engine, and we set out to find the purpose of this day. It’s somewhere out in the Okavango Delta. The best journeys answer questions you never knew to ask. Keep asking, Foster. We’re all listening.


    Click here for my free ‘Ultimate Africa Safari Packing Lists’


    (Please note some affiliate links above. I may receive a small referral fee should a product be bought through my site, but rest assured, I only highlight products I own and would buy for myself.)

  • 8 Amazing Days Exploring Cape Town, South Africa

    8 Amazing Days Exploring Cape Town, South Africa

    Wandering Cape Town and the Western Cape of South Africa /

    About 15 years ago my husband came back from a trip to Cape Town and declared it one of his favorite cities in the world. A bold and hyperbolic statement from an otherwise understated and pretty well-traveled guy. Fast forward a few years and I can’t disagree.

    Flowers in the wine country

    If there was ever a city that had it all, Cape Town is hard to beat. Beaches, museums, lush wine lands, world-class restaurants, and hotels. Unique ethnic neighborhoods, a hot urban city center, a lively waterfront, and a richly textured culture and history. All set within view of Cape Town’s centerpiece,  majestic Table Mountain. City, country, and seaside collide in what is possibly one of the most breathtaking settings a city can offer.

    Victoria and Albert Harbor and view of Table Mountain

    We spent eight leisurely days exploring Cape Town and its surroundings and could have happily added more. Rarely do we spend more than three nights in any given city, preferring the countryside or beaches to an urban bustle. But Cape Town defied that thinking. We still left much unseen, including a trip to the top of the iconic Table Mountain, which was one of our highest priorities.

    Due in part to the crowds, and the ever-changing weather that produced the aptly named ‘tablecloth’ cloud draping the mountain, we didn’t get a chance to catch the sweeping aerial views of the city. As my husband so optimistically noted, it gives us a reason to come back.

    Camp's Bay The Marley Hotel view from balcony The Marley Hotel room view

    Camp’s Bay, a seaside treasure

    We started our trip at Camp’s Bay, a trendy suburb of Cape Town. An eleven-suite boutique hotel on the beach. With a backdrop of the Twelve Apostles mountain range on one side and the mighty Lion’s Head on the other, it made for eye-popping views in every direction. Being winter in South Africa, the beaches were somewhat empty, but it was warm enough to take leisurely walks along the bay.

    The Marly Hotel

    The Marly Hotel is a great seaside find. Modern with an art deco edge, white and simple. Some rooms have large balconies facing either the water or the mountains. It’s tucked away on the second floor of an unassuming beachfront promenade of shops and restaurants. Buzzing sidewalk cafe culture takes over at this beachy retreat.

    The Marly has a cozy sitting area off the lobby complete with a library of books, a Nespresso machine, and DVDs for the taking. Wandering around the Marly, I felt like I was in a friend’s home rather than at a hotel. Just outside its front door is barefoot beach life in full swing.

    Bo Kaap, a colorful a Muslim community Bo Kaap, a colorful a Muslim community

    Exploring Cape Town’s Bo Kaap

    We spent our days exploring the unique neighborhoods of the city. Bo Kaap became an instant favorite. Bo Kaap is a Muslim community that is defined by its many narrow and cobbled streets of bright and cheerfully colorful buildings. Pinks, oranges, greens, and purples create a virtual rainbow of architecture set against the backdrop of Table Mountain. It was a photo opportunity at every corner. The building’s colors bounce dramatically off of the royal blue sky and layered puffy clouds.

    Robben Island

    The V&A Waterfront in Cape Town

    We also wandered the touristy Victoria and Albert Waterfront in Cape Town. It’s an interesting mix of hotels, markets, shops, museums, and even a large Ferris Wheel for a bird’s eye view of the area. We passed Nobel Square, a monument to South Africa’s four Nobel Peace Prize Laureates. The bronze sculptures are larger than life. They pay tribute to Nkosi Albert Luthuli, Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu, former State President FW de Klerk, and former President Nelson Mandela.

    As jet lag worked in our favor that morning, we caught the early ferry to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated for 27 years. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. If you have the chance, book the Robben Island tour well in advance, as it is understandably one of the busiest sites in the city.

    Inmate Tour at Robben Island

    A former inmate took us on a tour of the island, which was simultaneously harrowing and inspiring. A living museum in many ways, penguins still waddle around the bleak paths. We passed the rock quarry where Mandela labored for countless years. I could almost sense the ghosts of the past. It was a somber experience and gave great context to a remarkable and humble man.

    We saw Robben Island on a grim and windy day, which certainly added to the drama of the story our guide/inmate told. We were able to walk into Mandela’s cell for a moment and catch a second of panic as to how it might feel to be trapped there.

    Ferry view on the way to Robben Island

    On our way back to the harbor, the ferry captain slowed down and made a sharp turn, as he spotted a whale nearby. Everyone ran to the port side to catch a glimpse. After the whale had retreated into the water, the ferry captain made a wide turn, and slowly Table Mountain reappeared in the distance. We were transported back to our independent and free lives.

    The Test Kitchen

    Testing World-Class Restaurants in Cape Town

    It just so happens that two of the best restaurants in the world, according to the San Pellegrino list of the World’s Best Restaurants, are located in Cape Town. I had known the Test Kitchen (#50 on the San Pellegrino list, 2018) was a nearly impossible reservation to get and had turned away even A-List celebs who didn’t go through the proper process.

    I also knew that it was unlikely, given the time difference between DC and Cape Town, that I would get through by phone at exactly 8am one month to the day of the reservation date. On a whim, I emailed the Marly Hotel and told them our dates, and asked if they could possibly help. Sure enough, they came through with flying colors. Never underestimate the power of a great hotel concierge! 

    The Test Kitchen dark room Billionaires Shortbread Bread board at The Test Kitchen

    The Test Kitchen Delivers

    The Test Kitchen was a mesmerizing dining experience. We first entered a  ‘dark’ room lounge for cocktails and our first series of bite-sized courses. We were presented with a rolled-up parchment map that visually showed from where in the world each of our next courses was inspired. Then, we were escorted to a wooden door with a brass portal. After a sharp knock, we entered the ‘light’ room, where we continued our meal amidst the bright bustle of chef Luke Dale-Roberts’ open kitchen.

    A dining experience full of contrasts – from the atmosphere to the sound, to the food. Each course builds upon the last, artfully and whimsically presented. The highlight bite of all bites is the insane Billionaire Shortbread. A dazzling and unexpected combination of chili, dark chocolate, and duck. Suspend your disbelief and trust the chef, as it may be the best single bite you ever eat.

    Imiso Ceramics

    Galleries and boutiques in Woodstock

    On our way to dinner that evening, we found ourselves wandering the warehouse-like neighborhood of Woodstock. The Old Biscuit Mill now houses the restaurant, along with a crop of uber-trendy cafes and boutiques. Most were closed at that time of night, except for a brightly lit storefront.

    Handmade pottery lined the shelves throughout the minimal artist space. We walked in and were fortunate enough to meet the two lovely resident artists of Imiso Ceramics (Andile Dyalvane and Zizipho Poswa) whose work surrounded us.

    We fell in love with their work and went back the following morning with the intent to buy. One particularly intriguing collection of Mr. Dyalvane called ‘Scarified’ is an interpretation of a Xhosa ritual of scarring the skin. The clay of the vessels represents the cut skin. It is both haunting and beautiful simultaneously.

    La Colombe enchanted forest room La Colombe enchanted forest room

    Accidental Dining at La Colombe

    A few days later, we found ourselves at La Colombe (#73 on the San Pellegrino list, 2017) by accident. We had been in Constantia for the morning wine tasting and needed a lunch spot. La Colombe had caught our eye earlier on the drive. We knew nothing about it and certainly didn’t realize that people reserved so far in advance to dine there. They told us they were fully booked for lunch, but they had just had a dinner cancellation for that evening.

    We took advantage of the opportunity and found ourselves there five hours later enjoying an unforgettable meal. Complete with one course that took us from our table, behind a secret door, and into a room that can be best described as Alice in Wonderland meets Chef’s Table.

    Setting the dinner stage

    The mystery room had floor-to-ceiling green living walls, koi ponds, miniature gardens, and a Mad Hatter mixing drinks in the corner. We had two imaginative courses in this tiny hideaway before heading back into the otherwise formal dining room. It felt like we stepped into an alternate universe for a few minutes.

    La Colombe tasting menu La Colombe tasting menu

    Another distinct epicurean moment came soon after. This course was served on an ultra-thin white square plate, with pale green gelatin at the base. When we finished, a hidden message was revealed underneath that read: “Food is our theater. We hope you enjoy the show.” A memorable and apt quote from La Colombe, where we were the actors in the show.

    Truth Coffee Truth Coffee

    Truth in Cape Town

    The next morning, we made a necessary detour into Truth Coffee, which boasts itself as having the best coffee in the world. Signs berated us for using sugar. It’s not allowed, or available. The atmosphere is snobby warehouse chic. Exposed duct work, bare bulbs dangling from ultra-high ceilings. An industrial yet surprisingly warm vibe.

    We settled in for cappuccinos and pastries. This is the kind of place where time has no meaning, as it is busy from morning until night. But being a person who loves a little sugar in my cappuccino, I will have to remember to smuggle it in next time.

    The One & Only Cape Town

    Cape Town’s One & Only

    A few days later, we moved from Camp’s Bay to the One & Only Cape Town on the V&A Waterfront. The One & Only is centrally located and with magnificent views of Table Mountain. We were unexpectedly upgraded to an Island Suite that was set back from the main hotel on a small inlet accessible by bridges. The rooms are thoughtfully appointed, and beautifully modern while still warm and inviting in rich earth tones. An oasis within an oasis! 

    The V&A Waterfront area feels much more touristy and carnival-like but is still very worth a wander as it has access to Robben Island, shopping, museums, and markets, and is super high energy. It also has easy access to various neighborhoods to soak up the local vibe. 

    Buying groceries for Rosie’s Soup Kitchen Rosie’s Soup Kitchen Kids at Rosie’s Soup Kitchen Kids at Rosie’s Soup Kitchen

    Rosie’s kitchen, feeding kids in the townships

    While meandering around the energized waterfront, it is easy to forget that there is undeniably much poverty in Cape Town. The townships (the poverty-stricken areas on the outskirts of the city) are a heartbreaking contrast to the affluent suburbs. We had the opportunity to spend a few hours in the township of Khaleshita. On our way, we stopped at a market to buy produce for Rosie’s Soup Kitchen.

    Rosie feeds hundreds of kids each morning before school in a kitchen that is smaller than our hotel’s bathroom. It was a sobering and heart-warming experience. To see how far the money could go, and how many kids it could feed. To see the determination and love that Rosie had for the kids of the township. And mostly, to see how happy the kids were despite challenging life circumstances. 

    Boulders Bay penguins Boulders Bay penguins Cape of Good Hope, cliffside hiking Cape of Good Hope, ostriches

    Having it all, in Cape Town

    We then traveled south, to the southwesternmost point of Africa, the Cape of Good Hope. Cliffside hiking, on and off rickety wooden planks, along the Atlantic Ocean. We followed ostriches and other wild animals. It was a great way to walk off our decadent meals. The scenery was awe-inspiring and the air was crisp and clean. We then went further south to Boulders Bay, where we fell in love with the hundreds of African penguins that live there.

    The area is cordoned off so that they can live peacefully, and we spent hours watching them frolic and waddle around in their natural habitat. Being separated from the penguins by natural wooden fencing, it was easy to feel like we were the zoo animals and the penguins were watching us as entertainment.

    Oprah Winfrey has been quoted as saying, “You can have it all. Just not all at once.” Maybe Oprah had not yet traveled to Cape Town, where you can truly have it all, at once.

    Cape of Good Hope