Wandering Cape Town and the Western Cape of South Africa /
About 15 years ago my husband came back from a trip to Cape Town and declared it one of his favorite cities in the world. A bold and hyperbolic statement from an otherwise understated and pretty well-traveled guy. Fast forward a few years and I can’t disagree.
If there was ever a city that had it all, Cape Town is hard to beat. Beaches, museums, lush wine lands, world-class restaurants, and hotels. Unique ethnic neighborhoods, a hot urban city center, a lively waterfront, and a richly textured culture and history. All set within view of Cape Town’s centerpiece, majestic Table Mountain. City, country, and seaside collide in what is possibly one of the most breathtaking settings a city can offer.
We spent eight leisurely days exploring Cape Town and its surroundings and could have happily added more. Rarely do we spend more than three nights in any given city, preferring the countryside or beaches to an urban bustle. But Cape Town defied that thinking. We still left much unseen, including a trip to the top of the iconic Table Mountain, which was one of our highest priorities.
Due in part to the crowds, and the ever-changing weather that produced the aptly named ‘tablecloth’ cloud draping the mountain, we didn’t get a chance to catch the sweeping aerial views of the city. As my husband so optimistically noted, it gives us a reason to come back.
Camp’s Bay, a seaside treasure
We started our trip at Camp’s Bay, a trendy suburb of Cape Town. An eleven-suite boutique hotel on the beach. With a backdrop of the Twelve Apostles mountain range on one side and the mighty Lion’s Head on the other, it made for eye-popping views in every direction. Being winter in South Africa, the beaches were somewhat empty, but it was warm enough to take leisurely walks along the bay.
The Marly Hotel
The Marly Hotel is a great seaside find. Modern with an art deco edge, white and simple. Some rooms have large balconies facing either the water or the mountains. It’s tucked away on the second floor of an unassuming beachfront promenade of shops and restaurants. Buzzing sidewalk cafe culture takes over at this beachy retreat.
The Marly has a cozy sitting area off the lobby complete with a library of books, a Nespresso machine, and DVDs for the taking. Wandering around the Marly, I felt like I was in a friend’s home rather than at a hotel. Just outside its front door is barefoot beach life in full swing.
Exploring Cape Town’s Bo Kaap
We spent our days exploring the unique neighborhoods of the city. Bo Kaap became an instant favorite. Bo Kaap is a Muslim community that is defined by its many narrow and cobbled streets of bright and cheerfully colorful buildings. Pinks, oranges, greens, and purples create a virtual rainbow of architecture set against the backdrop of Table Mountain. It was a photo opportunity at every corner. The building’s colors bounce dramatically off of the royal blue sky and layered puffy clouds.
The V&A Waterfront in Cape Town
We also wandered the touristy Victoria and Albert Waterfront in Cape Town. It’s an interesting mix of hotels, markets, shops, museums, and even a large Ferris Wheel for a bird’s eye view of the area. We passed Nobel Square, a monument to South Africa’s four Nobel Peace Prize Laureates. The bronze sculptures are larger than life. They pay tribute to Nkosi Albert Luthuli, Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu, former State President FW de Klerk, and former President Nelson Mandela.
As jet lag worked in our favor that morning, we caught the early ferry to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated for 27 years. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. If you have the chance, book the Robben Island tour well in advance, as it is understandably one of the busiest sites in the city.
Inmate Tour at Robben Island
A former inmate took us on a tour of the island, which was simultaneously harrowing and inspiring. A living museum in many ways, penguins still waddle around the bleak paths. We passed the rock quarry where Mandela labored for countless years. I could almost sense the ghosts of the past. It was a somber experience and gave great context to a remarkable and humble man.
We saw Robben Island on a grim and windy day, which certainly added to the drama of the story our guide/inmate told. We were able to walk into Mandela’s cell for a moment and catch a second of panic as to how it might feel to be trapped there.
On our way back to the harbor, the ferry captain slowed down and made a sharp turn, as he spotted a whale nearby. Everyone ran to the port side to catch a glimpse. After the whale had retreated into the water, the ferry captain made a wide turn, and slowly Table Mountain reappeared in the distance. We were transported back to our independent and free lives.
Testing World-Class Restaurants in Cape Town
It just so happens that two of the best restaurants in the world, according to the San Pellegrino list of the World’s Best Restaurants, are located in Cape Town. I had known the Test Kitchen (#50 on the San Pellegrino list, 2018) was a nearly impossible reservation to get and had turned away even A-List celebs who didn’t go through the proper process.
I also knew that it was unlikely, given the time difference between DC and Cape Town, that I would get through by phone at exactly 8am one month to the day of the reservation date. On a whim, I emailed the Marly Hotel and told them our dates, and asked if they could possibly help. Sure enough, they came through with flying colors. Never underestimate the power of a great hotel concierge!
The Test Kitchen Delivers
The Test Kitchen was a mesmerizing dining experience. We first entered a ‘dark’ room lounge for cocktails and our first series of bite-sized courses. We were presented with a rolled-up parchment map that visually showed from where in the world each of our next courses was inspired. Then, we were escorted to a wooden door with a brass portal. After a sharp knock, we entered the ‘light’ room, where we continued our meal amidst the bright bustle of chef Luke Dale-Roberts’ open kitchen.
A dining experience full of contrasts – from the atmosphere to the sound, to the food. Each course builds upon the last, artfully and whimsically presented. The highlight bite of all bites is the insane Billionaire Shortbread. A dazzling and unexpected combination of chili, dark chocolate, and duck. Suspend your disbelief and trust the chef, as it may be the best single bite you ever eat.
Galleries and boutiques in Woodstock
On our way to dinner that evening, we found ourselves wandering the warehouse-like neighborhood of Woodstock. The Old Biscuit Mill now houses the restaurant, along with a crop of uber-trendy cafes and boutiques. Most were closed at that time of night, except for a brightly lit storefront.
Handmade pottery lined the shelves throughout the minimal artist space. We walked in and were fortunate enough to meet the two lovely resident artists of Imiso Ceramics (Andile Dyalvane and Zizipho Poswa) whose work surrounded us.
We fell in love with their work and went back the following morning with the intent to buy. One particularly intriguing collection of Mr. Dyalvane called ‘Scarified’ is an interpretation of a Xhosa ritual of scarring the skin. The clay of the vessels represents the cut skin. It is both haunting and beautiful simultaneously.
Accidental Dining at La Colombe
A few days later, we found ourselves at La Colombe (#73 on the San Pellegrino list, 2017) by accident. We had been in Constantia for the morning wine tasting and needed a lunch spot. La Colombe had caught our eye earlier on the drive. We knew nothing about it and certainly didn’t realize that people reserved so far in advance to dine there. They told us they were fully booked for lunch, but they had just had a dinner cancellation for that evening.
We took advantage of the opportunity and found ourselves there five hours later enjoying an unforgettable meal. Complete with one course that took us from our table, behind a secret door, and into a room that can be best described as Alice in Wonderland meets Chef’s Table.
Setting the dinner stage
The mystery room had floor-to-ceiling green living walls, koi ponds, miniature gardens, and a Mad Hatter mixing drinks in the corner. We had two imaginative courses in this tiny hideaway before heading back into the otherwise formal dining room. It felt like we stepped into an alternate universe for a few minutes.
Another distinct epicurean moment came soon after. This course was served on an ultra-thin white square plate, with pale green gelatin at the base. When we finished, a hidden message was revealed underneath that read: “Food is our theater. We hope you enjoy the show.” A memorable and apt quote from La Colombe, where we were the actors in the show.
Truth in Cape Town
The next morning, we made a necessary detour into Truth Coffee, which boasts itself as having the best coffee in the world. Signs berated us for using sugar. It’s not allowed, or available. The atmosphere is snobby warehouse chic. Exposed duct work, bare bulbs dangling from ultra-high ceilings. An industrial yet surprisingly warm vibe.
We settled in for cappuccinos and pastries. This is the kind of place where time has no meaning, as it is busy from morning until night. But being a person who loves a little sugar in my cappuccino, I will have to remember to smuggle it in next time.
Cape Town’s One & Only
A few days later, we moved from Camp’s Bay to the One & Only Cape Town on the V&A Waterfront. The One & Only is centrally located and with magnificent views of Table Mountain. We were unexpectedly upgraded to an Island Suite that was set back from the main hotel on a small inlet accessible by bridges. The rooms are thoughtfully appointed, and beautifully modern while still warm and inviting in rich earth tones. An oasis within an oasis!
The V&A Waterfront area feels much more touristy and carnival-like but is still very worth a wander as it has access to Robben Island, shopping, museums, and markets, and is super high energy. It also has easy access to various neighborhoods to soak up the local vibe.
Rosie’s kitchen, feeding kids in the townships
While meandering around the energized waterfront, it is easy to forget that there is undeniably much poverty in Cape Town. The townships (the poverty-stricken areas on the outskirts of the city) are a heartbreaking contrast to the affluent suburbs. We had the opportunity to spend a few hours in the township of Khaleshita. On our way, we stopped at a market to buy produce for Rosie’s Soup Kitchen.
Rosie feeds hundreds of kids each morning before school in a kitchen that is smaller than our hotel’s bathroom. It was a sobering and heart-warming experience. To see how far the money could go, and how many kids it could feed. To see the determination and love that Rosie had for the kids of the township. And mostly, to see how happy the kids were despite challenging life circumstances.
Having it all, in Cape Town
We then traveled south, to the southwesternmost point of Africa, the Cape of Good Hope. Cliffside hiking, on and off rickety wooden planks, along the Atlantic Ocean. We followed ostriches and other wild animals. It was a great way to walk off our decadent meals. The scenery was awe-inspiring and the air was crisp and clean. We then went further south to Boulders Bay, where we fell in love with the hundreds of African penguins that live there.
The area is cordoned off so that they can live peacefully, and we spent hours watching them frolic and waddle around in their natural habitat. Being separated from the penguins by natural wooden fencing, it was easy to feel like we were the zoo animals and the penguins were watching us as entertainment.
Oprah Winfrey has been quoted as saying, “You can have it all. Just not all at once.” Maybe Oprah had not yet traveled to Cape Town, where you can truly have it all, at once.
