I am Lost and Found

Category: Caribbean

In 1950, A Party Started At Eden Rock St. Barths. It’s Still Going.

I walk through the airport’s cool, frosted glass doors. Salt-tinged air warms my face. Out here, the party’s in full swing. People gather with glasses in hand. Bottles of Chassagne-Montrachet chill in buckets of ice at their feet. Bursts of laughter radiate from the well-heeled crowd as a rainbow assortment of Minis and Mokes whizzes behind them. It feels like happy hour on a breezy NYC rooftop, not airport arrivals.

I scan the crowd. Our villa manager is easy to spot. He’s wearing tell-tale Eden Rock red. Fred greets us as if we’re old friends. ‘Are you ready?’ he asks with a cheeky grin. It’s unclear what he means by ‘ready.’ But whatever it is, we unanimously agree that we are.

Eden Rock St. Barths—allons-y!

Eden Rock is Rooted in 1950s Glamour

Let’s back up a few decades to set the scene. In the early 1950s, French aviator and adventurer Rémy de Haenen built a hotel on a rocky promontory overlooking a secluded turquoise bay in St. Barths. Rémy dreamed his hotel would become a destination for the rich and famous. It didn’t take long for him to get his wish. Greta Garbo, Howard Hughes, and other celebrities soon christened red-roofed Eden Rock their Caribbean hideaway.

In 1995, Jane and David Matthews purchased Eden Rock from de Haenen. As the story goes, the Matthews (aka Pippa Middleton’s in-laws) sailed to the island and became immediately smitten. Furthering Rémy’s flair for all things fabulous, the Matthews added clifftop cottages and palatial suites, catapulting Eden Rock St. Barths into one of the world’s leading hotels.

Two decades later, the Matthews partnered with Oetker Collection to manage the property, further elevating its already high standards of luxury. Today, one could just as quickly spot a rockstar or an NFL quarterback sitting beside an aging politician or a teenage influencer.

Not a rock star? ‘So what?’ There’s room (and rooms) in St. Barths for all. But the glamour of this chic French island comes at a price—especially if the Eden Rock Hotel or one of its 150 private villas are involved.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

The Arrival

En route to our hilltop home away from home, a prop plane passes overhead. And by overhead, I mean I can practically touch it. We navigate a small roundabout where people gather with iPhones shooting video—a popular island activity. In the near distance, the Eden Rock Hotel comes into view. A departing plane is so close to the water it nearly takes the floppy hat off a sunbather.

There are many hotels on St. Barths with dramatic views. But only at Eden Rock can one watch charter planes arrive and depart from the comfort of a cushy sunlounger. Anywhere else, a hotel this close to the runway would be a dealbreaker vacation-wise. Leave it to the French to flip the script. The thrilling take-offs and landings are part of the island’s joie de vivre.

Gray Malin’s ‘The Arrival’

At 2,100 feet long, the runway on St. Barths is one of the world’s shortest, so only small planes can land. Therefore, most people (aside from those who fly private) connect through a neighboring island, usually St. Maarten or Puerto Rico.

To put an exclamation point on this long narrative about a short runway, fine-art photographer Gray Malin chose this very subject for his famous à la plage series. ‘The Arrival’ is one of his best-selling prints, no doubt adorning living room walls from Paris to LA.

The Eden Rock Bubble

It’s easy to get caught up in the Eden Rock bubble. Everyone in it looks so glamorous. Women wear gem-toned Missoni kaftans with oversized woven hats. Men don crisp white linen shirts, pastel-colored shorts, and Italian espadrilles. Their sunkissed kids trail behind them on their way to the Sand Bar for truffle-topped pizzas. It’s island eye candy all around.

The Eden Rock bubble has its own boutique. Did you forget that cute boho dress you planned to wear to Bagatelle? It’s Zimmermann’s crochet wrap to the rescue. Suddenly desperate for a tote that mirrors the bay’s exact shade of blue? Goyard’s Turquoise St. Louis bag with matching beach towel has you covered.

Blue, white, and red may be sewn into the island’s fabric, but the labels are decidedly Off White and Orlebar Brown.

Eden Rock St. Barths, The Hotel

In September 2017, the Eden Rock Hotel suffered extensive damage from Hurricane Irma. By 2019, it had reopened its welcoming red doors to guests eager to reclaim paradise. Eden Rock returned to its former glory with 37 rooms, a Jean-George Vongerichten restaurant, a new world-class spa, and an attentive and absurdly attractive staff of over 200 strong.

Other hotel highlights include the British-Colonial-style Rémy Bar, on-beach spa treatments, professional sunscreen attendants (not a typo), and a roving frosé trolley. Because mon dieu!—at these rates, no one should have to leave their sunlounger for a glass of Whispering Angel.

PC: Eden Rock

Incredibly, all 37 rooms and suites at Eden Rock are individually curated. Jane Matthews lovingly designed them, showcasing local and international artwork at every turn. Some rooms are on the beach, and others are on its famous rocks. All are spectacular.

Inspired by a schooner, the Captain’s Room has brass portholes, maritime leather seats, and a private pool. Spencer’s Room is perched on the face of the rock and pays homage to Africa with eclectic carved wooden masks, woven rugs, and a regal four-poster bed. Then there’s the Pippa, the Garbo, and the Howard Hughes. How to choose? A champagne problem, indeed.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

PC: Eden Rock

Villa Like a Rockstar

There isn’t a superlative that hasn’t been used to describe the Eden Rock Hotel. This puts me at a loss for words to describe their most extravagant villa. At 17,000 square feet, Villa Rockstar is called ‘a two hundred million dollar yacht on land.’ Between us, that isn’t much of a selling point. I’d rent a yacht if I wanted to be on a yacht. But who am I to question the marketing team of one of the leading hotels in the world?

Villa Rockstar has everything you could ever need and just as many things you don’t. The six-bedroom villa’s secluded location lies behind 10-foot walls on St. Jean’s beach. One of the many oversized bathrooms is circular and tiled in (wait for it) white gold. Rockstar has a dedicated chef and butler service around the clock, a 20-meter heated pool, and a jacuzzi. According to the website, Villa Rockstar also has a ‘basement full of surprises.’

PC: Eden Rock

Other amenities include daily breakfast delivery, a fully-equipped techno-gym, a multi-car-filled garage, a private business office, and a custom-designed Italian kitchen. While I don’t know who is driving, cooking, working, or exercising when they visit Villa Rockstar, I would trade it all for breakfast delivery. The brioche at Eden Rock is no joke.

The website also ensures guests that ‘privacy and discretion’ are Villa Rockstar’s watch words. Is that the same thing as safe words? Safe words aren’t just for the bedroom anymore. Does this have anything to do with the surprises in the basement? Grab eleven of your closest friends and party like a rockstar at Villa Rockstar. When you discover what’s hidden in the basement, please share.

Villa Neo and Eden Rock’s 148 Other Villas

Villa Rockstar notwithstanding, Eden Rock has private villas across the island for (nearly) all budgets. Eden Rock conveniently divides its villa portfolio among four categories: Classic, Deluxe, Prestige, and Ultraluxe. If you think classic is code for inexpensive, you’d be incorrect. Nothing is inexpensive on St. Barths. Instead, think of classic as code for least expensive. And even then, prepare for sticker shock.

Neo is a six-bedroom supermodern ultraluxe villa. It has glass staircases, glass walls, and glass sculptures. The pool spans the length of the villa and towers high above St. Jean’s beach. Neo’s outside space is sprawling with double-bed sunloungers and wide umbrellas.

Some bathrooms have deep soaking tubs (alas, none tiled in white gold) and spacious balconies. The kitchen is not ornamental. Our chef, Eric, whips up fabulous French meals there every day. That we’re spoiled is evident.

Breakfast is a daily delight—and more decadent with each passing morning. Airy crépes on Monday, Belgian waffles with berries on Tuesday, fluffy frittatas on Wednesday… you get the idea. That every meal Eric creates comes with baguettes, brioches, and croissants does nothing to help our waistlines. We waddle to the Eden Rock boutique to buy bigger kaftans.

After a week of fantastic in-villa meals, Eric tells us he’s never seen a group consume so much bread. We pat our bellies proudly and take it as a compliment—though I’m pretty sure it isn’t.

Dining Beyond the Bubble

With all the French carbohydrates one could desire, you may question why we’d ever leave the ~~bubble~~ villa. St. Barths has a world-class dining scene, which always includes incredible people-watching in chic settings with DJs and live music. So get out, we do, and it’s worth it.

Three standout meals are Sella, Bagatelle, and Nikki Beach. Each restaurant incorporates a party element to accompany the food and wine. At Sella, Jerusalem-born, Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit serves Middle Eastern cuisine in an amber-infused, low-lit waterfront setting. The DJ’s hypnotic Arabic music fuses intricate melodies and rhythmic patterns with charred meats and vegetables. We all love it.

Bagatelle starts typically enough—with a convivial dinner party vibe. But by the time the appetizers arrived, the DJ had ratcheted up the music so loud that I couldn’t hear my husband. As the entrées appeared, guests and servers started dancing.

Then, models began weaving around the dancers in cute boho dresses. Champagne corks spiral through the air. John Legend is singing Happy Birthday. Bagatelle is not a restaurant; it’s a bar mitzvah.

Just Another Sunday at Nikki Beach

Nikki Beach deserves a post of its own. And maybe one day, when strapped for content, I’ll write it. Until then, believe me when I say a trip to St. Barths without Sunday brunch at Nikki Beach is a big mistake.

Sundays at Nikki Beach are legendary in St. Barths. It’s a Caribbean darty (to use my least favorite word but most favorite concept). The great thing about a daytime party is that you can have fun whether you are 8, 18, or 88. And at Nikki Beach, ‘fun’ could mean a sparkler-topped bottle of Veuve Clicquot, a hot French saxophonist dancing on your table, or a gladiator towing a sorority girl around on a chariot. On our Sunday, fun included all of the above.

Colorful sushi boats filled with seared ahi tuna, red caviar-topped salmon, and pink ebi sail around the room. As the music tempo increases, the crowd rises to the occasion (literally and figuratively). People kick off their shoes and dance like no one is watching. Although, of course, everyone is. We order a bottle of Dom and go for it. Nikki Beach is the place to splurge on the most splurge-worthy island in the Caribbean.

“Are You Ready?”

I think back to Fred’s cheeky grin seven days ago. I’m sure he knew we’d need a vacation to recover from our vacation. I’m sure he knew we’d have baguette withdrawal, suffer from severe sleep deficit, and have hearing loss in one, if not both, ears. After so many years tending to guests’ needs in the Eden Rock bubble, he’s seen it all. No wonder he was smiling.

At the airport, newly arriving guests exit as I enter the frosted glass doors. Salt-tinged air warms their faces. I take one last glance behind me. I see signature Eden Rock red shirts and bottles of ice-cold Chablis. Glasses clink. Laughter fills the air. A rainbow assortment of Minis and Mokes whizzes by on the street.

In St. Barth’s, the party never ends.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

April 5, 2024
5 of the Best Caribbean Beach Bars

My top five favorite Caribbean beach bars and restaurants are personal. They’re based on my memories of food, wine, people, and views. My top five list might change over time, but these are the Caribbean beach bars and beach clubs that keep my travel memories alive and kicking.

My Top Five Caribbean Beach Bars

When assessing the best beach bars, suffice it to say that I have a few baseline requirements. A vibe that naturally pairs with the island’s culture is one. Combining tourists and locals adds authenticity and credibility, and festive air helps. The food (if served) is at a culinary level that matches the establishment’s look and atmosphere. And lastly, a USP (Unique Selling Point) that makes me yearn to go back months after the holiday has ended.

Except for Anegada, I’ve been fortunate enough to visit the following Caribbean beach clubs and bars more than once. That qualifies me as an expert in my own experiences, that is. Next time you find yourself in the Caribbean (and let’s all agree that we hope that time is soon), let me know if you concur. Or better yet, tell me about your favorite Caribbean bars and restaurants.

Click Here For My Free Caribbean Beach Bar Hot Sheet

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 5 / Basil’s Bar, Mustique

Island Vibe: Celebrity Secret Hideaway

Basil’s is a Caribbean beach bar and restaurant leisurely perched on the edge of Britannia Bay in Mustique. It attempts to camouflage the island’s undercover glamour. Lush and verdant, Mustique has only two hotels and two restaurants. Its beauty is hiding in plain sight among the breezy Windward Islands.

Why I like Basil’s: Chill, open-air, Basil’s woos villa owners, villa renters, reclusive celebrities, and yachties alike, with a combination of casual food (like perfectly seasoned grilled lobsters), a low-key atmosphere, and spectacular sea views.

I’ll admit, though, that I have little memory of the food because the setting is the star, day, and night. Mega-yachts and sublime sailboats were anchored in the distance, which created another layer to this Caribbean bar’s swoon-worthy backdrop.

USP: I like to settle into the indoor/outdoor living spaces and nooks or park myself on one of the wooden stools overlooking the tranquil Caribbean Sea.

Worth mentioning: Live Music/DJ Nights/Basil’s Boutique/Accessible by car or boat

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 4 / Catherine’s Café, Antigua

Island Vibe: Casual European Beach

To say Catherine’s is a Caribbean beach club that is comfortable in her own skin is an understatement. Open-air, louver-shuttered, sea-breezy Catherine’s Café on the island of Antigua lazes under warm, butter-yellow Veuve Cliquot umbrellas.

Why I like Catherine’s: Catherine’s barefoot casual Caribbean beach bar feels like Europe. I see naked toddlers running amok with their half-naked mums chasing them. It boasts a French-inspired menu and a well-thought-out wine list.

I can’t forget our effervescent bartender, Damien, who kept us in good spirits. Neem trees enshroud the hidden location. It practically begs one to spend an afternoon there—which is exactly what we did.

USP: The cozy and intimate beach area adjacent to the bar offers lovely bay views in a secluded setting.

Worth mentioning: Live Music/Cheese Course/G+T Menu/Bakery/Boutique/Accessible by car or boat

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 3 / The Rum Bar, Cooper Island

Island Vibe: Desert-Island Barefoot Beach Shack

Our sailboat grabbed one of the last available moorings in Manchioneel Bay, off the shores of Cooper Island. I felt like a survivor about to crawl onto a deserted beach. The people lazing on the wooden decks of the Rum Bar were scrappy and barefooted, semi-drunk, and happily marooned. It was as if we had found a hidden outpost, a tiny island jewel box, where a lucky few were escaping the outside world. Idyllic.

Why I like The Rum Bar: Cooper Island has an authenticity that is somewhat unique to the British Virgin Islands, which are often heavy with tourists and can sometimes feel manufactured.

A clear sign that the Rum Bar, part of the modest Cooper Island Beach Club, is all it’s cracked up to be was that we noticed yacht crews hanging at the bar—the real-life version of ‘Below Deck.’ If the Rum Bar was where they chose to spend their limited free time, we knew we were on to something good. It‘s definitely a Caribbean beach bar worth exploring.

USP: The remote and rickety beach shack-chic setting that, true to its name, houses 280 different rums.

Worth mentioning: Bakery/Barista/Accessible only by boat/Arrive early to get one of the 30 coveted moorings

Click Here For My Free Caribbean Beach Bar Hot Sheet

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 2 / Anegada, Cow Wreck Beach Bar

Island Vibe: Utterly Remote Castaway

Seventeen nautical miles from Virgin Gorda sits the pancake flat, remote island of Anegada. The name Anegada means ‘drowned island.’ At only 28 feet tall at its highest elevation, it could not feel farther away from civilization. That’s exactly what makes this Caribbean beach bar and restaurant so enchanting.

Why do they call it Cow Wreck Beach, I wondered? In 1929, a 380-foot-long steel freighter called The Rocus was heading from Trinidad to Baltimore. The Rocus’s cargo was filled with cow bones that would later be ground into fertilizer.

Unfortunately, The Rocus made an unexpected and devastatingly final stop when she collided with Anegada’s treacherous Horseshoe Reef. Since the wreck, the ocean floor has remained eerily scattered with cow bones. As for the freighter, it’s still lodged on its starboard side just beneath the water’s surface. It hasn’t budged an inch since 1929.

Why I like Cow Wreck: There are thousands of sea urchin shells in every size and all the varying degrees of white that the sun can bleach. The sea is a color that one would immediately assume is an Instagram filter. The open-air beach bar has peeling paint, plastic chairs, and dive-y, no-frills decor.

USP: A Caribbean beach bar that is this challenging to get to only adds to its allure.

Worth mentioning: Wreck Punch/Lobster/Bar games/Accessible only by boat or ferry

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 1 / St. Barths, Nikki Beach

Island Vibe: Over-the-top beach club party

There’s nowhere else in the Caribbean quite like St. Barths. Authentic French through and through, the words St. Barths conjure up Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous glamour. Nikki Beach is ideally situated to soak up the island’s eternally sun-filled vibes.

Imagine the days when Greta Garbo and other Hollywood stars walked these very shores. Now imagine Beyonce and Jay-Z at the table beside you. Nikki Beach gradually turns up the volume throughout their two Sunday seatings. You will never want the party to end.

Why I like Nikki Beach: Dance on the tables with wild abandon whether you are 8, 18, or 88. The upbeat party on the beach is for everyone. Order one of the famous sushi boats to go along with your 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet. Go wild and pair vintage Dom Perignon with an ounce or two of caviar. The sky is the limit here in every way. No one goes home hungry or thirsty without a beachy glow after a day at Nikki Beach.

USP: Glam, glam, and more glam. Part Caribbean beach club and part beach bar, it offers killer views of St. Jean’s Bay and incredible people-watching for hours on end.

Worth mentioning: Reservations are a must/Live DJ/Special occasion splurge

Dream job: If becoming a bartender abroad is your life goal, look no further than JOOBLE for inspiration.

Click Here For My Free Caribbean Beach Bar Hot Sheet

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

February 6, 2024
From Jamaica, With Love: The Goldeneye Resort Review

Our van takes a sharp left from the busy road through a small gap in an unassuming stone wall. Twisted tree limbs dangle over it and I have the urge to hold my breath as we squeeze through. I peer out the rear window, half expecting the gap to close up and disappear into the overgrowth. I’ve arrived at Goldeneye in Jamaica, the very place where James Bond was brought to life by author Ian Fleming. Although I’ve been on the grounds all of seven seconds, its magnetic pull is undeniable.

It’s another world in here.

Why Jamaica?

We choose Jamaica for utilitarian and unromantic reasons. It’s less than two weeks until the avalanche otherwise known as Christmas arrives and Jamaica is a non-stop three-hour flight from DC. Perfect. I need a quick getaway to find my holiday spirit. I hope it fits in my carry-on. I’ve overpacked as usual.

Our driver is easy to spot, holding up a small sign that reads ‘Goldeneye’. I smile, imagining myself beachside within the hour. ‘How far to the resort?’, I ask, ready to get out of my bulky plane clothes. ‘Two hours’, he replies with a wide grin. I throw my head back and laugh, having heard this joke before. ‘No, really.’ I say, ‘How far?’ Still smiling, but not joking, he repeats, ‘Two hours.’ Ugh.

But, once we pass the mega, all-inclusive resorts of Montego Bay, the ride is a snap. I take mental notes as we traverse the northern coast of the island: uninterrupted views of the Caribbean Sea, colorful rowboats in shallow salt marshes, hot pink oleander hovering over narrow medians, and banded palm trees lining crescent coves.

Before I know it, two hours have elapsed. As a bonus, I’m completely relaxed.

Our van takes a sharp left… oh wait, you know that part. Moving on.

Goldeneye, Jamaica: A Brief History

Super fans of 007 will likely know that Jamaica is where Ian Fleming wrote his famous British spy series. In 1946, Mr. Fleming, a former British soldier himself, built Goldeneye, a villa perched majestically on a sea cliff with expansive Caribbean views. At one time, Goldeneye was the social epicenter of the island, with guests like Truman Capote, Princess Margaret, and Errol Flynn coming and going throughout the year.

Twelve years after Mr. Fleming died, reggae pioneer Bob Marley bought the estate. Shortly thereafter, he sold it to Island Records founder, Chris Blackwell who added 25 acres to the original 15 and converted the property into a small hotel.

James Bond is the most charming secret agent in history. And while I’m a big fan, I’ll admit now that I was a tad nervous about the Bond theme being too, well, theme-y. It’s not. There are subtle nods, like the License to Chill cocktail I enjoyed at Button Beach every day. But, that’s about it. So, if you’re a 007 enthusiast hoping for a Bond-themed lazy river or paragliding excursion, manage your expectations.

Goldeneye hasn’t lost its original allure. Celebrities, models, and rock stars alike visit today—just not the week we are there, unfortunately.

Click here for my wish list destination hot sheet. It’s free.

Rooms With A View, At Goldeneye

Goldeneye has three types of rooms; beach villa, lagoon cottage, or beach hut. Despite being within such close proximity to one another, they are very different. As the name implies, beach villas are on the beach. Unlike other resorts where a beach villa might mean you have to walk (gasp!) five minutes to said beach, Goldeneye’s beach villas are located in the sand, just steps from the water.

Let me flog my point. I pack four pairs of shoes, including the sneakers (or trainers, this is a former English colony!) I wore on the plane. Once at the resort, I don’t wear shoes. Not to dinner, not to the spa. Not at all. I’m pretty much walking on sand the entire time I’m there. If Goldeneye doesn’t define ‘barefoot luxury’ I’ll eat my shoe (I mean, trainer).

Our villa has a wide-covered veranda and two beach loungers on either side of a large umbrella facing Low Cay. The decor is beach shack fancy, Jamaica-style. Aka rustic. Our villa has dark wood accents, bright batik-dyed colored fabrics, a claw-footed tub, and a refreshing outdoor shower.

A full kitchen we never use has a Smeg refrigerator that keeps our Red Stripe and bottled water cold. The gauzy netting above our king bed isn’t decorative, which worries me. That I wake up bite-free each morning is a mosquito miracle.

The Blue Lagoon (Cottages)

The lagoon cottages would be my second choice of accommodation at Goldeneye. Perched directly on the calm, warm lagoon, they’re unlike anything I’ve seen in the Caribbean. The lagoon people can swim from their private docks to search for giant sea turtles lurking below the surface. They can tie their kayaks up to the dock after a late afternoon paddle.

It all feels very Blue Lagoon circa 1980—sans Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins. I’ll bet they’ve been past guests. I make a note to check the guest book.

Hut Life

Goldeneye’s beach huts are a world unto themselves, clustered between Button Beach and Snorkeler’s Cove. Contrary to the name, beach huts are not on the beach. They are huts near the beach. It’s an important nuance. Some huts are raised ten feet from the ground and overlook flower-filled gardens and paths. Others have private verandas and outdoor showers.

According to Goldeneye’s website, hut life is about casualness and simplicity. It states that the freestanding huts are special because of the louvered windows that control the light and breeze. To me, this is code for no air conditioning. But, if you’d like a basic, primal, louvered window wooden cabana near the beach, consider hut life.

Pretty windows notwithstanding, if we ever wondered if we were hut people, the huts at Goldeneye assure us we aren’t.

Simple Luxury, at Goldeneye

Our waiter does a little jig between the tables, singing along with the music, a wide smile on his face. The Field Spa hut dangles over the lagoon’s edge and I enjoy a warm foot bath on the veranda while awaiting my massage. Johnny cakes for breakfast and homemade plantain chips with snapper ceviche for lunch. The simple luxury of Goldeneye is in the details.

Sea turtle nests are found around the beach villas. Wooden signs acknowledge their locations and lighting is kept intentionally low to accommodate them. The benefit of tiki torches being our sole source of light means we can see constellations overhead with such clarity I walk into more than one palm tree while stargazing.

This could be 1964, 1974, or 2004. I doubt much has changed at Goldeneye in Jamaica over the decades. It’s no-frills, simple luxuries like these that have guests returning again and again.

To Do, Or Not To Do

At Goldeneye, I do practically nothing. If there was ever a place to do nothing, this is it. I don’t leave the property. Aside from eating, drinking, and sleeping, here’s a list of what I did:

I read The Heaven and Earth Grocery Store, by James McBride. If you haven’t read it you are missing out on some seriously fine writing. No offense, Mr. Fleming.

I kayaked around the lagoon. It was so serene and peaceful that I did it twice.

I had a sports massage. This wasn’t serene or peaceful. My mistake—I should have chosen better.

In four days, my step counter totals under 5,000 steps. It probably thought I was dead.

Who Goes to Goldeneye?

Aside from all the celebrities we don’t see at Goldeneye, the resort caters to normal people who want complete seclusion in a lush, tropical setting. There’s plenty for kids to do, snorkeling, swimming, and an array of other water sports like sailing and SUP. But once the sun goes down, it’s pin-drop quiet. While that’s appealing to me, who believes a good night’s sleep is a gift from the gods, kids might disagree.

We come to Goldeneye seeking escape, not adventure. Goldeneye delivers. Natural beauty is everywhere. The Caribbean Sea, turquoise lagoons, fiery sunsets, and thousands of trees. We see trees in every stage of life, from newly planted plum, almond, and mango trees to mature orange, coconut, and apple trees.

Many of these trees have signs displaying who donated them. Goldeneye’s innovative plant-a-tree program means guests can tell friends at home that their mango tree grows beside Kate Moss’s coconut one. Your bragging rights are helping to sustain the planet. One thousand dollars well spent.

Goldeneye: The Antidote to the Mega-Resort

Ian Fleming may be long gone, but his creativity lives on in this picturesque and remote coastal part of Jamaica. It’s all too easy to see how one can be inspired here. The gentle, lapping waves, mesmerizing sea turtles, starry nights, and whistling birds are just a few of the reasons Goldeneye Resort is so captivating.

Forget what you think you know about Jamaica. It’s not only mega-resorts with water slides, pirate-themed water parks, and ‘frozé all day’. Not that there’s anything wrong with frozé. Actually, everything is wrong with frozé, but that’s an opinion for a future post.

It’s another world behind the stone walls of Goldeneye. Channel your inner secret agent. The one who needs to relax after saving the world from total destruction (or trying to get your son into college, etc). Find a reason to go barefoot and fancy-free for a few days. Bring a book. Consider Casino Royale—the very one that kickstarted Fleming’s famous series.

Or do nothing at all.

See what all the fuss is about at Goldeneye. Click here!

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December 15, 2023
Sugar Beach is The Caribbean’s Ultimate Family Friendly Resort

Sugar Beach, St. Lucia—When my family heads off on a beach holiday, some of us want to do everything, and some of us want to do nothing. Usually, I want to do a little bit of something, then a whole lot of nothing. As it turns out, there is a place for families like us where you can do absolutely everything, or absolutely nothing, at exactly the same time. Sugar Beach, St. Lucia, seemed to find that fantastic balance of being a family-friendly resort while not feeling like it was designed for kids.

Between the Pitons at Sugar Beach in St. Lucia

The Pitons, a duo of volcanic spires, are St. Lucia’s main event. I’d happily debate anyone who says otherwise. It’s the unique selling point of Viceroy’s Sugar Beach and St. Lucia, as far as I am concerned. Sitting at 2,618ft and 2,438ft, respectively, both Gros and Petit Pitons are the natural defining features of this lush paradise.

St. Lucia’s Sugar Beach won the Caribbean lottery on location, being one of only two resorts that rest between them and the only one that is beachfront. They have been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and at any given time of day, one piton is lit to perfection, while the other lies in dramatic shadow. Both are awe-inspiring and magnificent around the clock. They are so highly regarded that the local beer is named ‘Piton’ in their honor.

Sugar Beach’s villas and cottages

Contrary to our usual travel mantra of never repeating a trip, this was our second time to St. Lucia and Sugar Beach. In 2014, we opted for a white clapboard colonial cottage neatly camouflaged in the hills overlooking the sea.

With its private plunge pool, Rainforest Spa, and on-demand golf cart access, this Viceroy resort was the kind of hideaway we sought. Cascading flora and fauna nearly swallowed the entrance, and it boasted majestic views of the Pitons—nature enveloped us from all angles.

This time, we had a few more people in tow and opted for a beachfront villa. In contrast to the intimate cottage, it was wide-open and airy, had two pools and a hot tub, and sat directly on the beach.

The long, infinity pool paralleled the sea, hovering just high enough above it so it looked like we were swimming laps alongside the horizon. The villa’s expansive patio had front-row seats to sunsets, and during our five nights, each was more spectacular than the one before.

We found it so hard to tear ourselves away that on our last evening; we decided to have dinner on the patio and settle in for the night. The four poster beds had gauzy mosquito netting that gave the rooms a dreamy feeling. White-on-white, with dark wooden colonial touches, added to the breezy vibe of the villa.

Every window faced the ocean, where we watched the chartered catamarans and privately owned yachts slowly drift in and out of the harbor—an unvarnished portrait of the ever-changing seascape being painted before our eyes.

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Colonial Vibes at Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

Sugar Beach sits on a staggering 100 acres of rainforest on what was once a thriving sugar plantation dating back to the 18th century. Today, plantation architecture characterizes the villas from the inside out. Common areas are accented by potted plants that border the exterior and inner walkways. Overgrown and lush, tropical flowers appear around every corner.

The villa’s loungy outdoor seating surrounds the pool, and doors are wide open to the sea from the bedrooms and living spaces. The kitchen was stocked with wine, fruit, and bottled water. If something was needed, it was just a phone call to our villa butler to help.

Resort Life at Sugar Beach

Our villa was a short walk to the main part of the resort, which was a nice perk as the kids could easily come and go as they pleased. The Pitons that bookend the bay make it a finite wonderland for roaming kids. The main house has multiple restaurants, a kid’s club, a sushi bar, swinging daybeds, and touches of surprisingly interesting artwork.

Sugar Beach takes hotel artwork to another level, and I wondered who curated it. Notably, too, was that the artwork seemed to stand the test of time. It is not an easy feat in a world constantly reinventing itself.

Culinary delights at Sugar Beach

There are multiple restaurants and bars at Sugar Beach, each having its slice of Caribbean character. Restaurant Bayside is open-air and (as named) steps from the bay. Fresh tuna, Mahi Mahi, wood-fired pizzas, and multiple vegetarian options made everyone in our group happy.

We surprised ourselves with more than one dinner at The Cane Bar. The Cane Bar is nearly hidden behind an imposing black door off the art gallery. Asian in inspiration, with the exciting addition of being known for its rum drinks.

It was a much-needed change up from the Caribbean-influenced menus. Fresh tuna, sea bream, and sea bass, all with pretty presentations, had us coming back. The decor is classic in black and white, yet somehow made warmer by the avant-garde sculpture and unusual multi-media pieces.

While my only wish is that it also had outdoor seating, it was a hit with our entire group. As a bonus, a billiards room is tucked in the back—a place to relax with a cocktail post-dinner and hide from our kids.

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Sugar Beach’s atypical breakfast buffet

Breakfast is served on another veranda, above a sweeping flight of stairs and past a large, beautiful pond. I’m not much for breakfast, but the Sugar Beach interpretation makes anyone rethink the run-of-the-mill buffet. My kids are still talking about it as a highlight months later. Fresh yogurts, grains, fruits, cereals. Various juices, like watermelon, guava, and papaya, sat chilling in glass pitchers.

There are at least five different types of freshly baked bread. The T80 sourdough became an immediate obsession among us. We may or may not have ‘borrowed’ a few loaves the morning we left the resort for our sailing trip. Made-to-order smoothies and enough cow’s milk alternatives to make any lactose-free guest swoon. Breakfast buffet, perfected.

The Ultimate Hike at Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

An experiment in forgetting about pain, climbing Gros Piton was far more challenging than I remembered from 2014. Perhaps being older, less fit, and having a moody teenager in tow added to the drama.

We started at sea level, which added about 30 minutes to the climb. Big mistake. We were in full sweat when we reached the village entrance. Annoying perky hikers were beginning their ascent.

Our guides kept to our pace, which was a challenge as our group was scattered all over the mountain. I stayed far enough ahead of my daughter so that I couldn’t hear her complaints. And behind my husband, son, and friend, who high-tailed it to the summit at breakneck speed.

There are two summit viewpoints, and after 1 1/2 hours or so, we reached the first. If I had to do it again, I’d skip the first summit and go directly to the next one. It was far prettier and made the blood, sweat, and tears more worthwhile. I will even go as far as to say that the mid-mountain summit is just as breathtaking. It stares directly toward Petit Piton (which, confusingly, is more challenging to climb than Gros Piton).

My quads were on fire for the remainder of the day (and the next). I counted it as my ‘something’ for the trip. Then, I spent the next four days congratulating myself for having earned four days of ‘nothing.’ My daughter still complains about the hike regularly.

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Wander or Lounge? Both, naturally.

There’s no end to activities available at a family-friendly spot like Sugar Beach. Among them are waterskiing, scuba, snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, tennis, the Rainforest Spa, and tubing. My favorite? On the beach, under a shaggy, golden, thatched umbrella with an order of shrimp tacos. From there, I could watch the kids waterski or jump from the circular water loungers that dotted the swimming area.

For all the activities on hand, though, it never felt like an over-the-top, Disney-fied experience. At times, it had a homespun quality—kids left to play a game of pick-up soccer or to run with wild abandon on the beach.

The Rainforest Spa at Viceroy’s Sugar Beach

Even in a setting as relaxed as St. Lucia, there are always ways to get a little more relaxed. The Rainforest Spa at Sugar Beach is in a class of its own. A long, bamboo-lined, serpentine corridor dotted with rattan-covered lanterns leads to the spa reception—allowing just the right amount of romantic light through its slats.

The massage huts are scattered around, hovering in the trees, with sunlight filtering softly between the leaves. I felt like I had happened upon a primitive island—an ethereal start to an hour of relaxation.

St. Lucia, unfiltered

In an overly filtered world (and I love my filters as much as the next Instagrammer), I will say that I draw the line at sunsets. If I can’t capture the sunset without using one, then it just isn’t worth capturing.

Luckily, St. Lucian sunsets required no filters. The nightly drama, the changing kaleidoscope of colors, was one of the few things everyone in my family could sit still for.

Often, the simplest things bring the most happiness. Even if stripped of boats, gear, toys, and massage tables, Sugar Beach St. Lucia would still overdeliver. What lies between the pitons is a timeless natural wonder, enhanced by the warm-hearted staff that made us feel wholly welcome.

On our final night, a fierce game of beach cricket ensued. It was one of my favorite lasting memories of the trip. To paraphrase Winston Churchill, “All the great things are simple.” I couldn’t agree more.

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December 1, 2023
The Most Beautiful Places to Go Sailing in Belize
Sailing in Belize is the antidote to Caribbean over-tourism. Follow along on our adventure to the Belize Barrier Reef where we discover some of the world’s best underwater life, remote islands, and just how much food one really needs to survive.

I wake up with the sun. In Belize, the sun is an early riser. Only two things motivate me to wake up this early—a morning flight and the promise of a magnificent sunrise. The fact that the former is mandatory and the latter is optional means I don’t see as many sunrises as I’d like.

Our boat rolls gently with the waves, trying its best to keep me nestled under my featherlight duvet. I overcome the desire to burrow and head above deck, still in my PJs. Which is how I find myself staring out at the sea at this ungodly hour.

The water is calm, reflecting the sky’s cotton candy colors. If not for the seagulls dive-bombing the surface, I wouldn’t be able to tell where the ocean ended and the sky began. The air is still. As if it, too, is reluctant to wake up.

A pair of bottle-nosed dolphins silently pinwheel through the water. Three Frigatebirds searching for food follow in their wake. There is no breeze, no sound, and only open water for infinite nautical miles. I smile—satisfied that the early wake-up has paid off.

It always does.

Dreaming of spring (break)

It’s spring break—that annual week-long bridge between winter and spring, cold and warm. Spring break exclaims, ‘You’ve nearly made it through another year of sweltering soccer games and off-key school concerts! Home stretch, only eight weeks ‘til summer!’ This is my favorite time of year to travel, aside from one thing. Most of the country is on spring break, too.

Every year we ask ourselves, ‘Where can we go that everyone else isn’t going?’ Every year it seems that everyone is everywhere we are. This year will be different.

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Why sail in Belize?

Why sail in Belize when the Caribbean islands are so much closer to home? Well, (and I’m preparing for backlash here) the British Virgin Islands are a circus, for one. It’s a Disney-fied version of Caribbean life that mainly caters to the lowest common denominator class of tourists regarding food and service. Whoa, that’s pretty harsh. On the flip side, the Caribbean is stunning, with the potential for wonderful photos once you airbrush out all those pesky people.

This brings me to my second point—the BVI is crowded. With over 500,000 people descending upon the islands last year alone, I’m surprised Virgin Gorda hasn’t exceeded its maximum capacity and sunk. Third, even reaching far-flung islands like Anegada is a cut-throat race for the last mooring ball. And, unless you’re competing in the BVI annual regatta, there is no reason to race on a sailing holiday.

My husband Daniel promises that sailing in Belize, with its abundance of sea life and remote, windswept islands, will be the antidote to Caribbean over-tourism. A place where my depleted brain can recharge.

I hate it when he’s right.
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Where is Belize?

Belize is the only country in Central America where English is the official language. It’s also Central America’s least populated country. It lies between Mexico and Guatemala with a coastline that’s home to hundreds of mostly uninhabited islands, off-shore atolls, mangrove forests, and an endless bounty of marine life. Belize’s Barrier Reef is the 2nd largest in the world—second only to that great one off the coast of Australia.

Comprised of seven protected areas, the reef was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. I’m glad Daniel made me pack my ridiculous-looking Snuba mask. If there’s ever a place to Snuba without fear of being spotted, it’s the least populated country in Central America.

There are 450 islands, or cayes (keys), along the Belizean coast. Some are for sale, should you have several hundred thousand dollars and a boatload of imagination to spare. While the cayes to the north of Belize City are popular destinations to sail in Belize, we opt for the quieter waters south of Placencia. This proves to be a blessing and a full-on Disney curse.

Reef Life in Belize

The shallow turquoise waters around the Belize Barrier Reef are distractingly beautiful. The sea’s astonishing clarity allows us to see fish, rays, and coral without having to get our toes wet. Mother Nature’s patterns are easily visible beneath the surface: the swaying branches of an orange sea fan, black stripes on a yellow Reef Butterflyfish, and raked sandy grooves on the sea floor. I look up and set my focus on the shore. Vibrant green palm fronds bend with the breeze, casually dangling over the water. Their snaking, windblown trunks firmly anchored to the beach.

The curse of being in a faraway and less-traveled, tropical environment is that there is nowhere to provision. I remind Daniel, (our provisioner-in-chief) that I hadn’t planned to starve to death on spring break this year. Don’t ask why we find ourselves in a position of being so egregiously understocked, but let’s just say I wasn’t invited into the supermarket on embarkation day. Big. Mistake.

By our third day at sea, we cast our rods, and pray to the fishing gods for help.

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Come sail away

There’s something beautifully simple about living on the water. Sailing always reminds me that what stresses me out in the real world is not as overwhelming as I think. The built-in soundtrack of life at sea; birds, waves, and wind, is music to my citified ears. The colors are so vivid and change hue so often, I never get bored with the palette.

I like how it feels when the boat tightens as the wind finds its groove and fills the sail. It’s then that I find a seat at the bow and take inventory of the ever-changing scenery—a school of shimmery flying fish, an osprey guarding a sandy atoll, or a spotted eagle ray moving beneath us like an underwater butterfly.

The Belize Barrier Reef is alive and well in 2023. Long may that last.

Sailing in Belize: Cattyshack

I’m not sure who’s in charge of naming boats for Moorings, but I’d like the job. I can do better than Seas The Day, Rum ‘n’ Coke, and Abby Normal. Our catamaran’s name, Cattyshack, is only slightly less awful. But Cattyshack it is, and she serves us well for our week sailing in Belize.

Cattyshack is 45ft long with four bedrooms, four en-suite bathrooms, multiple outdoor viewing nooks (aka cocktail lounges), and lots of deck space to sunbathe and read. It has a large saloon with ample storage for all the food we’ve failed to bring. Cattyshack also has paddleboards, snorkeling equipment, fishing poles, and air conditioning. But Cattyshack’s most valuable assets are Raj and Christina—our captain and cook.

The Cattyshack Crew

Captain Raj has been sailing the Belize Barrier Reef his entire life and seems to know every sandbar, caye, and mangrove forest like the back of his Belizean hand. We’re ever impressed by his expertise, as sailing around the reef is tricky for even the most accomplished seamen. The depth of the water can shift from 75ft to 5ft within seconds, and I’m sure more than a few Seas The Days have been caught off-guard and run aground.

One night we are anchored well beyond the reef, completely exposed, when a large storm hits at 2am. I feel the heavy swells and see the lightning flash with my eyes shut. My coping mechanism is to hide under the covers and pretend it’s not happening. My husband excitedly heads above deck and out into the storm with Raj. Despite drawing the short straw to sleep in the upstairs saloon, our teenage son, Chase, snoozes right through it.

Master Chef

In the eerie stillness of the morning, we discover the only other two cats in the vicinity have crashed into each other, making us all the more grateful for Raj’s keen instincts.

Having a cook on board allows us to truly relax. And since our food supply is limited, we rely upon Christina’s skills to make it last. I didn’t need to be intuitive to note her displeasure with our amateur provisioning. We apologize as she continues to turn lemons into lemonade with each breakfast, lunch, and dinner. How she stretches our meager supplies into so many edible Belizean dishes is a mystery Gordon Ramsay couldn’t solve.

Thankfully both Christina and Raj are superior fishermen and share their catches with us. Our contribution is one enormous barracuda our friend Duncan reels in with well-deserved pride. Christina prepares it like the master chef she is, using an array of spices and coconut oil she brought on board. A veritable feast ensues.

Islands of Belize

Sailing is inherently simple. In theory, all one needs is a compass, wind, and a carefree spirit. A fishing rod helps. We learn to live on less throughout the week and savor each meal as if it’s our last. Raj takes us to a few islands with low-key restaurants that allow us to purchase produce and alcohol (at a considerable upcharge, naturally).

Are these escapades a part of the adventure? Definitely. Do they make for future blogging fodder? You know it. By the week’s end, no condiment gets left behind. I forage limes from the bottom of our tequila drinks and olives from our empty Bloody Mary tumblers. Waste not, want not, Belize-style.

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Where to sail in Belize: Hideaway Caye

We sail to Hideaway Caye early in the week, well before we know the limits of our food supply. Florida natives Dustin and Kim fell in love with Belize while on vacation one year and decided to leave the Sunshine State for good. Together they built an island paradise complete with a restaurant, bar, and a single pink and green guest cabana. Those searching for an off-the-grid experience in an already off-the-grid location should look no further than Hideaway Caye.

Raised wooden planks lit with tiny fairy lights lead us from the dock to Kim and Dustin’s thatched open-air bar. The menu is limited, serving mainly Queen Conch, which is one of the most celebrated foods in Belize. Conch season runs from October through June and Kim prepares this Belizean delicacy in two delectable ways. We devour her conch fritters and conch ceviche along with cocktails, and convivial banter.

Where to sail in Belize: Rendezvous Caye

After a storm-free night’s sleep, light breakfast, and leisurely sail, Rendezvous Caye comes into view. I take out my binoculars and focus on this narrow slip of an island, hardly believing that it once belonged to Ringo Starr. “The drummer from the Beatles!”, I tell Chase, who looks miffed. “The Beatles? One of the greatest bands of all time?”, I add. He still looks confused.

Ugh. Forget it.

I scan the length of the island, noticing osprey and other birds of prey in the trees. They don’t seem happy about our arrival. I know that look well, my mother makes the same face when she’s annoyed. I silently promise we won’t disturb their peace and hope they don’t see me as a mid-morning snack.

Three thatched umbrellas pop up from the water at the sandy tip of the island. I wonder where the cabana boys are hiding with my gin and tonic. The island looks completely abandoned. This could never happen in the Caribbean, I think as I struggle with my Snuba mask. Once firmly in place, I make my way towards the barren shore, noting where the osprey is perched before jumping in.

My son and his friend paddleboard while the rest of us swim. We spend a few hours as castaways, exploring, shelling, and playing beach cricket. Later on, a family from another cat, Texas Two Step (really, Moorings?), appears and joins the game.

As much as I complain about having to pack a bat, wicket, and a can of tennis balls on every vacation, beach cricket is always a crowd-pleaser. As the sun begins to wane, we say goodbye to Rendezvous and head back to the boat for sunset cocktails—my favorite activity of the day.
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Where to sail in Belize: Ray Caye

Approaching Ray Caye is like finding water after being lost in the desert for a week. A private island resort with pristine beaches, colorful, modest guest houses, and wait for it, a full-service restaurant and bar, Ray Caye is para- para- paradise. Get it, Chase? Coldplay! Paradise?

Lionfish Bar and Grill serves more than just conch, which in itself is a perfectly acceptable reason to love it. We descend upon it like feral cats, which annoys the resort’s legitimate guests. It doesn’t escape me that we manage to disturb so many people and various species of wildlife on our trip. Daniel gets experimental and orders lionfish cakes while I replenish my veggie quotient with island-grown arugula tossed with sweet cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, and red onion.

Once my belly is officially full, I head to the pool, order a Bloody Mary (more veggies!), and settle in for the afternoon. The kids seek out the island’s famous sea slide. The hours melt away.

The Rhythm of Boat Life

The days melt away, too. The rhythm of boat life is melodic and carefree. Early mornings are quiet and pensive. The sea picks up just as our caffeine kicks in, and we sail for a few hours towards the next caye. By midday, the sea is alive with activity, and we spot dolphins, rays, and tarpon from the deck. By late afternoon, we’d migrated to the upper deck for drinks. Each night we say this is the best sunset yet. Every night it is.

After dinner, we gaze up at the inky star-filled sky and revel in the quiet. The water rolls away from our boat like a red carpet on Oscar Night. Going home is going to hurt.

Before long, we’ve reached the end of the week, the end of our provisions, and for Christina, quite possibly, the end of her rope. Daniel defends his position by declaring we’ve had an overeating problem rather than an underprovisioning one.

Under the sea

It’s our final morning sailing in Belize. I force myself out of bed early, knowing this will be the last sunrise I choose to see for a while. The sea is pale pink, once again a reflection of the sky. In researching shades of pink, (no wonder it takes me a month to write a post) I learn that Benjamin Moore’s ‘First Light’ won ‘Color of the Year’ in 2020. Benjamin Moore’s color namer could teach the Mooring’s boat namer a thing or two.

I imagine the sea life teeming below me; the ever-colorful living reef, scorpionfish, parrotfish, and barracuda. I picture the brain coral, fire coral, and mushroom coral—all of which I’d seen clear as day with my trusty Snuba mask, which I’ve learned to love.

Two bottle-nosed dolphins break the surface in the distance. I pretend they are the same pair who welcomed me to Belize at sunrise one week ago. In Belize, there are treasures to be found both under the sea and above it.

I smile—satisfied that the early wake-up has once again paid off.

It always does.

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July 4, 2023
The Best Lunch Spot in Antigua is…

Catherine’s Café, The Best Lunch in Antigua

Some days I can hardly remember what I ate for breakfast. On other days, I can’t remember what book I am reading. More often than I’d like to admit, I can’t remember what day of the week it is. What I do remember though, is the best beach lunch I had on the island of Antigua nearly 15 years ago.

My husband, our daughter (who was then nine months old), and I, traveled to this charming Caribbean island in the West Indies for the wedding of close friends. Being new parents, and tired parents, we tried to keep up with all of the festivities of the young, hip, and childless wedding crowd.

We made a decent effort, and really placed it all on the line for a festive lunch at Catherine’s Café, knowing full well that daytime drinking, and parenting an infant, could be a disastrous combination.

Catherine’s has since changed locations, from a waterfront deck at English Harbour, to a beachside one, at the tip of Pigeon Beach, overlooking Falmouth Harbour.

However, much remains unchanged — the salty, seaside vibe, the perfectly-paced tempo of the music, and the dreamy lull of the breezy sea air. So what if I can’t remember exactly what Catherine’s looked like back then, or what I ate? The feeling was the memory. And it felt right, again.

Booked on a feeling at Catherine’s Cafe

When we decided to book a family trip to Antigua, it was based on emotion and memory. My husband and I had two priorities, lunch at Catherine’s Café, and sunset views at Shirley Heights Lookout.

For those who know us, it isn’t completely surprising that we would plan a trip around a restaurant, or a view, or a feeling. Not that our knee-jerk reactions to travel haven’t occasionally led us astray. I have booked a hotel in the wrong part of a city, or the country, or unknowingly during the rainy season. Whoops.

More often than not, however, I do the research and the planning. Yet, being surprised by a mistake can sometimes be exciting. It can also cause marital stress, but that’s a different post.

Set sail for Antigua

The islands of Antigua and Barbuda were settled by the English in 1632 and eventually gained independence in 1981. Antigua has much to offer tourists, yet for some reason doesn’t feel ruled by tourism.

In 2016, Antigua became home to a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nelson’s Dockyard. In order to be deemed a UNESCO site, a place or landmark must have ‘cultural, historical and/or natural significance’. It is legally protected from then onwards for future generations to enjoy. We walked around this small piece of history at dusk, the orange glow of the sun simmering in the inky sea—mere inches from some of the world’s most expensive and drool-inducing yachts.

Nelson’s Dockyard is also the home to Antigua’s famous annual sailing regatta. Drawing competitors worldwide, and heading into its 53rd year, I was amused to discover the inspiration for the famous week-long regatta.

As the story goes—in 1968, a group of island hoteliers and friends thought they could extend the winter tourist season by adding on the regatta. This clever idea has since become a strong part of Antigua’s heritage and culture, not to mention an excuse to check out the 150-200 yachts that descend upon the island each year.

Antigua: the Nature Island

Despite the glamorous yachts and sailboats, Antigua is remarkably chill in attitude, content to allow its natural wonders to take center stage. These natural wonders, many small and hidden, are patiently waiting for you if you take the time to really look.

We kayaked along shallow serpentine inlets that opened up to a large, serene pond. Gray herons swooped noisily over our heads, while clusters of flying fish paralleled our route. I collected microscopic, pale pink, jewel-like shells. Both full, and double, rainbows appeared after nearly every passing shower.

Early one morning on the beach, I watched Piers Morgan (yes, that Piers Morgan) take a photo of his wife in front of a particularly vibrant double rainbow. Nearby, an Antiguan woman from the resort murmured, “We see that every day.” I wasn’t sure if she meant the double rainbow or Piers Morgan. A unique daily sighting, either way.

Zooming in on my photos a little later, I laughed as I realized that my shot of the double rainbow captured Piers taking a photo of it, too. When I checked out his Instagram feed, sure enough, there it was. How meta.

Overall, there is a kind of beauty in Antigua that can only be revealed by allowing the mind to stop thinking and just look. A slow burn of beauty, a marathon, rather than a sprint, of beauty. (Note to self: you have officially overused the word ‘beauty’. Find thesaurus.)

Antigua’s Shirley Heights Lookout

Once a military lookout and gun battery, Shirley Heights is now a party every Sunday night for locals and tourists alike. In order to fully appreciate this sunset celebration, you need to get past the expected cheesiness; the loud reggae band, the cheap drinks, the throng of (sometimes not so civilized) tourists, and just go for it. Why? Because Shirley Heights, at 490 feet and with 360-degree views, offers the best panorama of the island, hands down.

If you are at all like us, and only interested in the sunset, go early, grab a drink, and a coveted spot on the ledge that overlooks Falmouth and English Harbours. Then, hold your ground.

We watched as a rainstorm swept over the harbors, obscuring them completely, and then clear just in time for the sun to re-introduce itself and descend. Despite the drizzle, we stayed put, refusing to give up our perch. It was worth getting a little wet, the sky was mesmerizing and dramatic, offering up prismatic colors and textures that are hard to define. Shirley Heights, fifteen years later, and still on top of its game.

Taking it slowly in Antigua

Many Caribbean islands have their version of the boozy beach lunch. St Barths has the colorful daytime club/restaurant, Nikki Beach. The under-the-radar glam island of Mustique is known for its equally understated beach bar, Basil’s.

Yet, there is something about the inherent low-key-ness of Antigua that especially lends itself to dedicating long sun-framed hours to lunch. I love the natural, lazy blurring of meals when lunch is leisurely and sometimes surprisingly turns into dinner. The un-rushed antithesis of real life. Again, giving time to lingering, watching, and absorbing.

Being responsible parents, we decided to taxi to Catherine’s from our resort. Antigua is particularly hilly, with narrow roads, and it is difficult to tell what is around each corner, whether that be a secluded cove, a colorful church, or a careening truck. We thought it best to leave the driving to an island expert.

Catherine’s, at last

A wooden planked path past a bakery and a boutique led us to our destination—open-air, louver-shuttered, sea-breezy Catherine’s Café. Ahead, Veuve Clicquot branded, butter yellow umbrellas popped brilliantly from the sand, adding another layer of warmth to the already warm atmosphere.

Inviting circular loungers were haphazardly scattered around, and large Neem trees offered shade. Naked, sun-kissed French toddlers ran amok. I could tell right away that the new Catherine’s was going to be worth rediscovering.

We arrived at the unfashionably early time of 12pm, which afforded us a chance to snag a prime beachfront table. Our shoes promptly came off as we settled into the plush chairs, and into the scene. The tables filled up quickly, and we overheard one entitled guest try to buy their way to a better table position. He was really going to kill the vibe, I thought. Then I smiled and relaxed. My uncool, early timing had paid off.

Later, I overheard another guest pompously remark, “I’ve gone off Ott in favor of Whispering Angel.” A few hours at lunch here and I could easily start a new instagram account: OverheardAntigua. Maybe it already exists?

Damien, the charmer

I introduced myself to Damien, the effervescent bartender, and asked if he would mind if I used his photo on my site. Happy to oblige, he smiled, posed, then told us about his favorite drinks.

From behind the row of garnish-filled mason jars, he produced an extensive gin and tonic menu. I think he knew we were there for the long haul. Drinks-wise, Damien nailed it. Never doubt a Caribbean bartender on his own turf.

Even the color palette of Catherine’s—ecru, ivory, eggshell blue, and foamy green—seemed designed to compliment the beachscape. Tightly woven Chilewich mats, pale rattan chairs and oversized dangling, domed lampshades added to the gentle vibe of the café. The soundtrack— the ebb and flow of the sea, the soft clinking of glasses, squealing babies, and the best sound of all, the sound of true vacation laziness.

The background music that particular day was Jamiroquai, and I was suddenly overcome with nostalgia, that English funk and acid jazz brought me back to the early 90s in NYC. I love when music attaches itself to a moment. A past memory and a current one collide in the best way.

The Parisian-influenced menu made us feel like we were on a French island rather than a former British one. Halfway into our meal, a group of 15 gorgeous, tanned, twenty-somethings sat at the table beside us. The four of us quietly argued whether they were mega-yacht owners’ kids, or the cast of the TV show, Below Deck.

After a bit of research (aka questioning the waiter), we discovered they were, indeed, the crew from one of the yachts in the harbor. I kept a sharp eye on my daughter who had already fallen in love with a ruggedly handsome deckhand sitting at the head of the table.

Choices at Catherine’s

We indulged in almost everything the menu had to offer. The roast chicken was artfully placed on a slice of layered potatoes. Freshly diced tuna tartare was garnished with a touch of fennel and greens—another standout. The gazpacho was almost too pretty to eat.

A cheese course seemed important to complete the meal, or maybe just to elongate it. The baguettes were freshly baked, with perfectly salted, creamy French butter served alongside, and cut on-demand at a central area that also doubled as the barista station.

The service might have been a little snail-paced that day, but those who complained missed out on the very reason for lunching at a place like Catherine’s in the first place. It is the long meal, the marathon of courses, and the multiple bottles of wine, that make the boozy lunch a boozy lunch. The sooner one gets on island time, the better.

Memories of Antigua

So, while my memory is unreliable at the best of times, I have learned, above all else, to trust my feelings. Thank you, Catherine and Shirley, for living up to expectations, and even exceeding them in some ways. As an aside, today is Tuesday, I had a peanut butter banana smoothie for breakfast, and am currently reading The Hungry Tide, by Amitav Ghosh.

Long live the boozy beach lunch.

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February 4, 2020
St Barths is always a good idea

If a picture is worth a thousand words, then this post will virtually write itself. With boundless blue skies, and streaks of white clouds that read more watercolor than a photograph, St Barths is one unending photo op after another. To paraphrase a famous quote “St Barths is always a good idea.” I couldn’t agree more.

St. Barthélemy

Not more than a speck in the West Indies, St Barths was discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493. With a population that hovers near 10,000, French-speaking and French-influenced, this Caribbean island makes up for its small size with a grand personality. Luxury and boutique shopping, swanky restaurants, superfine, white sandy beaches, and trendy nightclubs only begin to scratch the surface of what’s on offer.

However, this post is not about St Barths, per se. It is about an extraordinary villa that just happens to be on this extraordinary island. A volcanic island that is surrounded by shallow reefs, and shades of blue water that are—to use a common cliché—indescribable. Attempting brevity, and allowing the story to unfold through the photographs, I will try my best not to overhype.

Although I won’t promise.

Villa Ixfalia

Winding up the steep, narrow streets towards the villa, streets that seem to defy the laws of traction and gravity, was an adventure in itself. A sharp inhale at each curve, wondering if a truck or car was careening toward us from the opposite direction.

St Barths has made a miraculous recovery since Irma, but there is much activity and building going on, which makes the roads even more precarious. I allow myself to exhale—we have arrived. It is the highest point on this lush, green north-facing hillside. Villa Ixfalia.

Enter at your own risk

The overgrown jungle-like entrance to Ixfalia is deceptive. Perhaps this is intentional. A way to create even greater impact—like the opening of the velvet curtain at showtime, or the unveiling of a piece of art. Walk along the wooden planked path, through the wide, glass threshold, and into the open-air living space. Twenty or more rattan lampshades lazily sway above you. Varying in shapes and sizes, and dangling at varying heights, they create a mesmerizing display.

However, as beautiful as the lights may be, chances are you won’t notice them, as your eyes are reflectively drawn forward.

Cue the panorama—the only thing that lies between you and the sea is a glacier-blue infinity pool. A pool that will make you feel like you are swimming in the sky.

Villa life at Ixfalia

Ixfalia is perched several hundred feet in the air, majestically overlooking St Jean Beach and the iconic red-roof-topped Eden Rock Hotel. The blurring of indoor and outdoor living at the villa is reinforced at every turn. Rooms are wide open to the sea in nearly every direction, with modern, sheer shades that can be electronically maneuvered when needed.

There is surround sound music that can be accessed through your personal Sonos. Don’t have a St Barths playlist? No worries, as there are a few pre-made on hand. We immediately plugged in, then jumped from daytime pool party to pre-dinner lounge party, to post-dinner dance party—everyone a DJ with competing playlists.

Chasing the sun in St Barths

As with any well-designed villa, there are multiple places to relax, have cocktails, or disappear with a good book.

Tiered patio areas offered large, soft, double-wide sun loungers. It became a daily game of leapfrog, as we lost the sun over the hillside and moved from one sunny tier to another.

Once the last drop light gave out, we prepared ourselves for sunset with spicy margueritas. We then watched the beautiful streaks of color, oranges, and purples, crisscross the sky in front of us.

At Ixfalia, It’s all in the details

Each of the four bedrooms at Ixfalia is designed in soft woods tones and natural textiles. A study in white, various shades blending and melding. Driftwood is used generously throughout the property, both in elegant, organic ways, as well as in functional ways.

A driftwood seating area doubles as art from afar, a large entanglement of wood is perfectly placed on an otherwise blank wall. It is the opposite of glitzy ornamental opulence; there are natural finishes vs. gold-plated ones. Sandstone, sand, and shells rather than gemstones, mirrors, and baubles.

Ixfalia Masterd the villa in St Barths

The master bedroom is slightly separated from the main villa, facing the sweeping sea views — with a magnificent rock formation framed behind it. Among its many amenities, it boasts an enormous bathroom, complete with a stand-alone tub and open-plan rain shower.

The walk-in closet is so large, Stella McCartney could organize her next fashion show from it with room to spare. The king bed is centered and faces the floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors that lead to the pool, and then onwards to the sea. Again, you feel like you are miles above the world, staring straight into the sky.

Found objects

The other rooms are sea-facing as well, some with private outdoor showers, all with flat-screen Apple TVs, and found objects on display. Bleached animal skulls, organic sculptures, gigantic white shells, and beadwork, among them. Every room is different, yet each with a similar low-key vibe and complimenting color palette. Rattan is a strong natural feature throughout the rooms, from the tall, standing lamps and ottomans, to the delicate cup holders that hide a bottle of Evian on the night table.

We found ourselves in a constant conundrum—wanting to explore the island but never wanting to leave the villa.

Seeing (Eden Roc) Red

Red may not be the first color that comes to mind when imagining St Barths, but it is the primary color of Eden Rock, a premier luxury resort that also owns about 100 villas dotted around the island. An Eden Rock villa will give you extra perks: pole position loungers at Nikki Beach, hard to get dinner reservations, delivery of your rental car to the villa, and daily maid service, to name a few.

An ‘Ultraluxe’ Eden Rock villa includes a dedicated butler and chef, which takes villa living to an entirely new level. Eden Rock red certainly equals access on this island, and access in St Barths can be critical depending on how much or how little you’d like to do.

Carla

The very first touch point of our trip was Carla, and up until the moment we departed, she was one of the highlights of our stay. Never without a smile, a kind word, a laugh, and a ‘with pleasure’ when asked to help, we could not have had the same trip without her.

Carla was born in Johannesburg, but raised in Italy. Her career in hospitality has taken her from Europe, to America, and back to Europe, before her current role at Eden Rock. She told us funny stories of playing Chip, from Chip and Dale, while working at the Disney cruise line. Her flawless French is mixed with a twinge of her native Italian and adds to her effervescent charm.

As I said to my husband early on, it was as if she anticipated our every need. In the gorgeous open plan of Ixfalia, she was somehow always there when needed, and magically disappeared when we didn’t.

Some joked it was going to be hard to go back to reality without Carla. What I later thought was that I wanted to go back to reality and channel a little bit of my ‘inner Carla’. Her genuine sense of kindness and her ability to deliver happiness was contagious. An extra beam of light in sunny St Barths.

The talented Ms. Virginie

The same goes for Virginie, our lovely French chef. Not only was every meal perfectly presented, both verbally and artistically, she was always smiling and happy to take requests. She shared photos of her adorable newborn son, a foodie in the making!

Breakfast each morning was a carb-oholic’s dream. Her grandmother’s brioche french toast was a true highlight, so delicate and warm, it would have been a sin to add syrup. Each morning I swore I wouldn’t indulge, yet each morning I did. The secret, she confided, was that the brioche was soaked overnight in cream. Vacation calories don’t count, right?

If you don’t have a sweet tooth, however, she had many other tricks up her sleeve: a homemade chia pudding topped with granola, platters of artfully presented fresh fruit, soft scrambled eggs with herbs and ham, and perfectly crisped bacon, to name a few.

Fresh juices: beet, green, and pineapple lined the table, as did grilled baguette drizzled with olive oil. Carla and Virginie seemed to have memorized each of our caffeine vices upon arrival and had cappuccinos or herbal teas brewing as we sat down.

Nikki Beach, St Barths

As with Carla, Virginie seemed to anticipate our every culinary need. On Sunday we were booked at Nikki Beach for brunch, a daytime pool club/restaurant that gains momentum as the day goes on.

Waiters dance with magnums of rosé on their shoulders, saxophonists perform on tabletops, and eventually, most of the room, young and old, is up and moving. The music imperceptibly ratchets up over time, so that you might find yourself struggling to have a conversation.

Knowing full well that we wouldn’t want a heavy meal later on as planned, Virginie suggested a homemade pizza night. After indulging at Nikki Beach, it was the perfect way to end our day. Every few minutes a new pizza emerged: veggie, pepperoni, four cheese, and truffle among them.

Virginie whipped up so many fantastic meals that we began to rethink our ‘in v. out’ food strategy. Her steak with homemade Bernaise sauce was divine, as was the decadent homemade chocolate chip cookie topped with ice cream.

We enjoyed a lunch of roast chicken with rosemary, quinoa salad, and baked cauliflower. It was a side dish that became a main dish: a full head of cauliflower that had been baked in spices for over two hours, then sliced table-side like a birthday cake. I am still waiting for the recipe, Virginie!

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St Barths: Beyond Ixfalia

No mega-resorts line the beachfront of St Barths, and only a handful of low-key, high-end hotels like Le Toiny and Eden Rock have been within the jet-set crosshairs for decades. There is certainly an unruffled movie star quality to the people. An air of white linen, and understated elegance that is as breezy and natural as the island itself. All within these 25 square miles seems to have more sunlight than is physically possible.

In v. Out, Le déjeuner on St Barths

We sacrificed villa time for a few noteworthy excursions. We headed to the understated beach restaurant at the glamorous Hotel Le Toiny. The property has been fully rebuilt since Irma and is nothing short of spectacular. The spare and wild coastline will have you imagining that you have the island to yourself.

The restaurant digs its feet (and tables!) firmly into the sand, no shoes are required, (or even allowed), as there is a wooden shelf to stack them as you arrive. But don’t be fooled, it is as upscale and decadent as a beach restaurant can be.

In v. Out, le dîner on St Barths

There is no shortage of dining options on the island, but getting a reservation is still a trial during the high season, so booking early is certainly the way to go. We opted for tiny L’Isola, a modern, Italian, boutique restaurant by Santa Monica chef, Fabrizio Bianconi.

L’Isola boldly dares to abide away from the beach and is tucked on the edge of St Barths’ capital, Gustavia. Despite its location, it draws a crowd that will have you standing three deep at the long, inviting bar, waiting for his inventive fare. The room is low-lit, yet the buzz is high, and you could imagine you are in Milan or NYC as easily as St Barths.

Beach life on St Barths

The rugged, rocky coastline of St Barths is possibly the most beautiful natural element it possesses. The black, porous, volcanic rocks lump together along Columbier Beach in an Instagrammers dream setting. In fact, there were more than a few young girls who made the backdrop their personal photo studio. Selfies for miles.

Columbier is not easily found, and it is either a 25-minute coastal hike or a boat to gain access, which makes the beach all the more private and exclusive feeling. Sailboats and yachts dot the bay, and goats with their kids roam the rocks. It is a 180-degree shift from extravagant Nikki Beach, yet both are worth a trip in their own right.

St Barths is always a good idea

To paraphrase Audrey Hepburn, there is very little reason not to go to St Barth’s. Whether you want to be hidden, be seen, or both/and, St Barths is one of the few Caribbean islands that has just about everything going for it. With the French twist, it also has the innate culture that some islands lack.

Where I failed in brevity, I made up for it in detail. The story wrote itself, didn’t it? It’s all in the pictures.

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Five reasons to get lost:

• The hottest and one of the most well-known venues in St Barths is Le Ti. But don’t come for the food! Le Ti is part boudoir, part cabaret, and is always completely off the charts.

• Shellona Beach at sundown is buzzy and relaxed. Grab a table in the sand, order a cocktail, and spend a few hours people-watching. Gorgeous women model clothes from the neighboring boutique, walking the beach like a catwalk.

• In-villa massages with ocean breezes are a great way to bridge the gap between day and night.

• Virginie’s overnight cream-soaked brioche. Worth another mention.

• Driving the iconic, colorful island mokes up and down the hills of St Barths. Equal parts are breathtaking and terrifying.

March 6, 2019

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