Our van takes a sharp left from the busy road through a small gap in an unassuming stone wall. Twisted tree limbs dangle over it and I have the urge to hold my breath as we squeeze through. I peer out the rear window, half expecting the gap to close up and disappear into the overgrowth. I’ve arrived at Goldeneye in Jamaica, the very place where James Bond was brought to life by author Ian Fleming. Although I’ve been on the grounds all of seven seconds, its magnetic pull is undeniable.
It’s another world in here.
Why Jamaica?
We choose Jamaica for utilitarian and unromantic reasons. It’s less than two weeks until the avalanche otherwise known as Christmas arrives and Jamaica is a non-stop three-hour flight from DC. Perfect. I need a quick getaway to find my holiday spirit. I hope it fits in my carry-on. I’ve overpacked as usual.
Our driver is easy to spot, holding up a small sign that reads ‘Goldeneye’. I smile, imagining myself beachside within the hour. ‘How far to the resort?’, I ask, ready to get out of my bulky plane clothes. ‘Two hours’, he replies with a wide grin. I throw my head back and laugh, having heard this joke before. ‘No, really.’ I say, ‘How far?’ Still smiling, but not joking, he repeats, ‘Two hours.’ Ugh.
But, once we pass the mega, all-inclusive resorts of Montego Bay, the ride is a snap. I take mental notes as we traverse the northern coast of the island: uninterrupted views of the Caribbean Sea, colorful rowboats in shallow salt marshes, hot pink oleander hovering over narrow medians, and banded palm trees lining crescent coves.
Before I know it, two hours have elapsed. As a bonus, I’m completely relaxed.
Our van takes a sharp left… oh wait, you know that part. Moving on.
Goldeneye, Jamaica: A Brief History
Super fans of 007 will likely know that Jamaica is where Ian Fleming wrote his famous British spy series. In 1946, Mr. Fleming, a former British soldier himself, built Goldeneye, a villa perched majestically on a sea cliff with expansive Caribbean views. At one time, Goldeneye was the social epicenter of the island, with guests like Truman Capote, Princess Margaret, and Errol Flynn coming and going throughout the year.
Twelve years after Mr. Fleming died, reggae pioneer Bob Marley bought the estate. Shortly thereafter, he sold it to Island Records founder, Chris Blackwell who added 25 acres to the original 15 and converted the property into a small hotel.
James Bond is the most charming secret agent in history. And while I’m a big fan, I’ll admit now that I was a tad nervous about the Bond theme being too, well, theme-y. It’s not. There are subtle nods, like the License to Chill cocktail I enjoyed at Button Beach every day. But, that’s about it. So, if you’re a 007 enthusiast hoping for a Bond-themed lazy river or paragliding excursion, manage your expectations.
Goldeneye hasn’t lost its original allure. Celebrities, models, and rock stars alike visit today—just not the week we are there, unfortunately.
Click here for my wish list destination hot sheet. It’s free.
Rooms With A View, At Goldeneye
Goldeneye has three types of rooms; beach villa, lagoon cottage, or beach hut. Despite being within such close proximity to one another, they are very different. As the name implies, beach villas are on the beach. Unlike other resorts where a beach villa might mean you have to walk (gasp!) five minutes to said beach, Goldeneye’s beach villas are located in the sand, just steps from the water.
Let me flog my point. I pack four pairs of shoes, including the sneakers (or trainers, this is a former English colony!) I wore on the plane. Once at the resort, I don’t wear shoes. Not to dinner, not to the spa. Not at all. I’m pretty much walking on sand the entire time I’m there. If Goldeneye doesn’t define ‘barefoot luxury’ I’ll eat my shoe (I mean, trainer).
Our villa has a wide-covered veranda and two beach loungers on either side of a large umbrella facing Low Cay. The decor is beach shack fancy, Jamaica-style. Aka rustic. Our villa has dark wood accents, bright batik-dyed colored fabrics, a claw-footed tub, and a refreshing outdoor shower.
A full kitchen we never use has a Smeg refrigerator that keeps our Red Stripe and bottled water cold. The gauzy netting above our king bed isn’t decorative, which worries me. That I wake up bite-free each morning is a mosquito miracle.
The Blue Lagoon (Cottages)
The lagoon cottages would be my second choice of accommodation at Goldeneye. Perched directly on the calm, warm lagoon, they’re unlike anything I’ve seen in the Caribbean. The lagoon people can swim from their private docks to search for giant sea turtles lurking below the surface. They can tie their kayaks up to the dock after a late afternoon paddle.
It all feels very Blue Lagoon circa 1980—sans Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins. I’ll bet they’ve been past guests. I make a note to check the guest book.
Hut Life
Goldeneye’s beach huts are a world unto themselves, clustered between Button Beach and Snorkeler’s Cove. Contrary to the name, beach huts are not on the beach. They are huts near the beach. It’s an important nuance. Some huts are raised ten feet from the ground and overlook flower-filled gardens and paths. Others have private verandas and outdoor showers.
According to Goldeneye’s website, hut life is about casualness and simplicity. It states that the freestanding huts are special because of the louvered windows that control the light and breeze. To me, this is code for no air conditioning. But, if you’d like a basic, primal, louvered window wooden cabana near the beach, consider hut life.
Pretty windows notwithstanding, if we ever wondered if we were hut people, the huts at Goldeneye assure us we aren’t.
Simple Luxury, at Goldeneye
Our waiter does a little jig between the tables, singing along with the music, a wide smile on his face. The Field Spa hut dangles over the lagoon’s edge and I enjoy a warm foot bath on the veranda while awaiting my massage. Johnny cakes for breakfast and homemade plantain chips with snapper ceviche for lunch. The simple luxury of Goldeneye is in the details.
Sea turtle nests are found around the beach villas. Wooden signs acknowledge their locations and lighting is kept intentionally low to accommodate them. The benefit of tiki torches being our sole source of light means we can see constellations overhead with such clarity I walk into more than one palm tree while stargazing.
This could be 1964, 1974, or 2004. I doubt much has changed at Goldeneye in Jamaica over the decades. It’s no-frills, simple luxuries like these that have guests returning again and again.
To Do, Or Not To Do
At Goldeneye, I do practically nothing. If there was ever a place to do nothing, this is it. I don’t leave the property. Aside from eating, drinking, and sleeping, here’s a list of what I did:
I read The Heaven and Earth Grocery Store, by James McBride. If you haven’t read it you are missing out on some seriously fine writing. No offense, Mr. Fleming.
I kayaked around the lagoon. It was so serene and peaceful that I did it twice.
I had a sports massage. This wasn’t serene or peaceful. My mistake—I should have chosen better.
In four days, my step counter totals under 5,000 steps. It probably thought I was dead.
Who Goes to Goldeneye?
Aside from all the celebrities we don’t see at Goldeneye, the resort caters to normal people who want complete seclusion in a lush, tropical setting. There’s plenty for kids to do, snorkeling, swimming, and an array of other water sports like sailing and SUP. But once the sun goes down, it’s pin-drop quiet. While that’s appealing to me, who believes a good night’s sleep is a gift from the gods, kids might disagree.
We come to Goldeneye seeking escape, not adventure. Goldeneye delivers. Natural beauty is everywhere. The Caribbean Sea, turquoise lagoons, fiery sunsets, and thousands of trees. We see trees in every stage of life, from newly planted plum, almond, and mango trees to mature orange, coconut, and apple trees.
Many of these trees have signs displaying who donated them. Goldeneye’s innovative plant-a-tree program means guests can tell friends at home that their mango tree grows beside Kate Moss’s coconut one. Your bragging rights are helping to sustain the planet. One thousand dollars well spent.
Goldeneye: The Antidote to the Mega-Resort
Ian Fleming may be long gone, but his creativity lives on in this picturesque and remote coastal part of Jamaica. It’s all too easy to see how one can be inspired here. The gentle, lapping waves, mesmerizing sea turtles, starry nights, and whistling birds are just a few of the reasons Goldeneye Resort is so captivating.
Forget what you think you know about Jamaica. It’s not only mega-resorts with water slides, pirate-themed water parks, and ‘frozé all day’. Not that there’s anything wrong with frozé. Actually, everything is wrong with frozé, but that’s an opinion for a future post.
It’s another world behind the stone walls of Goldeneye. Channel your inner secret agent. The one who needs to relax after saving the world from total destruction, (or trying to get your son into college, etc). Find a reason to go barefoot and fancy-free for a few days. Bring a book. Consider Casino Royale—the very one that kickstarted Fleming’s famous series.
Or, do nothing at all.
Click here for my wish list destination hot sheet. It’s free.
This sounds like the perfect escape after all the holiday madness. Wanna go back with me? 🙂
Looks gorgeous! x
Hi there! Thanks for your amazing review! I wanted to ask about the Beach Huts… when you say you are not hut people – does that mean you wouldn’t consider staying in one? They are $750+ per night, so for that price I assumed they’d be ok, but maybe they’re not. Would love your thoughts. Thank you so much!