I am Lost and Found

Tag: Beach

The Best Of Mérida: Mexico’s Newest Hot Spot

“Where’s Mérida?” you wonder, and “Why should I go there?” I’m happy you asked. Mérida, Mexico, is the capital city of the Yucatán State. It’s simple luxuries fly under the radar in terms of typical Mexican tourist destinations—more rustic, fewer bells, fewer whistles, and friendlier on the wallet. Long may that last. Recently, I spent three days uncovering the best of Mérida, Mexico, old school style with a pen and paper. Three days exploring boutiques, boutique hotels, hidden watering holes, and airy rooftop bars.

Was it enough? Not by a hot Mexican mile.

My iPhone lights up. ‘Mérida is 🔥’ It’s Amy, one of my oldest and closest friends. Is she reporting the weather or preparing me for the fabulousness of Mérida? As of two weeks ago, I couldn’t have found Mérida, or the Yucatán, on a map if you gave me a million pesos.

Yet here I am, booking flights on one computer tab and mapping it out on another. This isn’t me; I don’t fly by the seat of my pants. I get to the airport at least two hours before my scheduled departure time and book restaurants a month out. I prepare for Christmas in August. Planning is my thing.

Until it isn’t.

Why Mérida, Mexico?

Amy and her husband decide to live in Mérida, Mexico, for a month, testing a work-from-anywhere model they hope to repeat if successful. Mérida is the capital of the Yucatán State and is quickly becoming one of the most sought-after destinations in Mexico.

They offer their extra bedroom and plunge pool as an incentive to visit. Amy says she’s already scouted out the best of Mérida, Mexico—no need to research. I’m sold on the plunge pool.

The Best of Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico

Despite the gaping holes in my knowledge about the location, the language, and nearly everything about Mérida, I can’t wait to get there. My daughter, Ella, seems happy, too. But it’s hard to tell, as her happy face, annoyed face, and indifferent face look so much alike. As ever, I’m optimistic.

Mérida, here we come!

My ‘Best of Mérida’ shortlist follows, fueled by Amy’s insider knowledge and advanced planning. You’d be surprised by what you can experience in three days unless you know Amy. Then you wouldn’t be surprised at all. If I’m a travel planner, Amy’s the Marie Kondo of travel planning. She had our life-changing, magical Mérida itinerary tidied up before I could say muchas gracias.

When our plane touches down, I know one thing for sure. Amy’s right, Mérida is hot.

Mi casa es su casa, in Mérida

We grab a taxi and head out. Crumbling concrete casas begging to be brought back to life reside next to those lovingly restored. Some with fresh coats of pastel-colored paint, flickering colonial-era lanterns, and glossy wooden doors. They’ve been returned to their original glory. This juxtaposition of old and new is what makes Mérida especially captivating.

Time has taken its toll on the buildings’ bones, not their souls. I imagine the conquistadors of centuries past roaming these very streets. Its history is palpable. Each turned corner reveals a new palette of watery rainbow-washed colors, glimpses of hidden courtyards, taquerias, and colorful plazas.

The city streets are laid out in a series of perfect right angles. A topographical chessboard of sorts. This layout makes the city accessible to even the most geographically stunted (myself included).

Their Airbnb is on the edge of the historic old town and has a seafoam green facade with bright white trim and a cerulean blue door. A light breeze takes the edge off the midday heat, and I hear a woman’s voice singing scales from above. Her undulating notes escape a top-floor window like liberated butterflies.

I quickly discover that music, in one form or another, is woven into the city’s DNA. I’ve only been here 18 minutes, but I know I will love it. 72 hours. The clock is ticking.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Hotels

I research hotels anyway, for fun. Yes, I think that’s fun. One day, when I bring my husband here, I’ll know exactly where to stay. The planner in me makes a fleeting appearance. A Google search combined with a chance to wander the city in real-time provides a shortlist of possibilities for my next trip to Mérida. Or possibly yours.

Coqui Coqui Residences

The five Yucatán-based residences of eternally boutique-chic Coqui Coqui Residences & Spa balance old-world charm with modern amenities. I fantasize about hopping from one swoon-worthy locale to the next.

Each residence is part chic hotel and part perfumery, with a spritz of tropical glamour. The Mérida location, built in 1903, is an ivory townhouse on a quiet street. It has only one room! I’m dying to see it!

The saleswoman says it’s occupied. That it’s always occupied, she notes my disappointment yet says the room has not one but two freestanding bathtubs. The epitome of Belle Epoque style, it also has a private rooftop pool and is accessed via a staircase, so elegant that Architectural Digest could devote an entire spread to it.

I drown my sorrows by devouring several of Coqui Coqui’s decadent chocolates and testing their perfumes. It’s tough to choose a favorite among the Yucatán-inspired fragrances. Should my new signature scent lean towards earthy tobacco or Hawaiian Tropic circa 1985? I choose coconut. This should be the toughest decision I make all day.

Coqui Coqui’s richly textured ochre-colored walls and black and white marble floors are devastatingly photogenic. Crystal chandeliers drip from double-height ceilings. Velvet poofs, curtains, and gilded, golden-framed mirrors convey an ultra-chic opulence. I slowly meander around this aromatic sanctuary, taking it all in.

Rosas y Xocolate

Rosas y Xocolate is a duo of the pinkest pink French mansions transformed into a boutique hotel that receives accolades for its style and service, not to mention an award-winning restaurant.

I step inside to oooh, ahhhh, and recalibrate my body temperature. Did I mention Merida is hot? The tranquil entry is a respite from the buzzy, pedestrian-filled Paseo de Montejo. I continue to meander, which is starting to wear on Ella. She is not a meanderer. Is that her annoyed face or hangry face? I look the other way.

The interior is dark and moody, a break from the dizzying bright blue skies outside. It’s like walking into a warm chocolate cookie. Or, maybe I’m hungry, too. I notice a wall of wine, oversized modern art displayed on a nearby easel, and a sunny outdoor patio for drinks. Rosas y Xocolate has my essentials covered.

Each of the 17 rooms is unique, featuring handmade chocolate soaps. Now that’s a hotel product I’d love to steal, I mean buy. Splashes of the hotel’s signature shade of rose abound, whether as an accent wall, a throw pillow, or actual blossoms. Bravo, Rosas y Xocolate.

Hotel Sevilla

Located in the oldest part of historic Mérida, just one block from the main square, sits Hotel Sevilla. A restored 19th-century hotel, old and new come together in this magical, spacious, hidden jewel with gardens, sun-drenched patios, and beautiful rooms. This compact boutique hotel oozes Colonial charm, adding a touch of industrial drama to its coveted city location.

Get My Free Mérida Hot Sheet—Just Click!

Hotel Cigno

A 19th-century mansion turned boutique hotel, this seven-room property on the outskirts of town has a delicate combination of traditional glamour and modern flourishes. Its azul-painted facade is as welcoming as the cenotes themselves. Hotel Cigno offers excursions and dining experiences to make any gringo feel at home in Mérida. The rooms are reasonably priced, with a splash of old and new Mexican design and some with private plunge pools to escape the heat.

Check Hotel Cigno availability here

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Boutiques and Babkas

Amy and John have been in Mérida, Mexico, for three weeks when Ella and I arrive. This allows them to narrow down the shops and boutiques worth visiting during our limited time.

The following day, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at home. Amy presents an array of flaky croissants, including tiramisu, almond-topped, and knotted babkas from Soco, a local artisanal bakery. Soco’s plumped-up pastries could easily compete with boulangeries in Paris.

Its derelict hole-in-the-wall style belies the doughy gems inside. I visit three times in as many days, pretending that Mexican calories don’t count. Or rather, French-inspired, Mexican-made calories don’t count. You get the idea.

PC: Ella Edwards

Caracol Púrapura, Mérida

Mexican folk art, handmade jewelry, and ceramics are just a few of the treasures to be unearthed at the intersection of Calles 60 and 53. Caracol Púrapura feels more like a museum than a series of local boutiques. Larger-than-life sculptures fill the cavernous space.

Vessels turned from Oaxacan black clay and Huichol beaded bracelets made by Wixárica artisans are displayed alongside paintings, handbags, and intricately designed pottery. These handicrafts preserve the traditions of Mexico while simultaneously supporting the local artists.

Taller Maya, Mérida

After more meandering, I pronounce Taller Maya as my favorite boutique. Taller Maya could live as comfortably on Spring Street in Soho as in Mérida. The clean, spare, brightly lit space has unusually high ceilings and an overall breezy feel. I stroll around the store several times, seeing something new and beautiful with each lap.

Solid marble pedestal bowls, modern wooden furniture, luminous lamps, and hand-woven hammocks only begin to describe the highly curated wares at Taller Maya. I covet it all, down to the handwoven tortilla warmers. A study in neutrals and as welcoming as a Tribeca loft. I would have moved in immediately had they offered.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Sights

Mérida feels real. Perhaps this is the most luxurious thing about it. When so many places in Mexico are tourist-focused to the point of being inauthentic, Mérida nails it without effort. Oh, and it’s incredibly affordable, at least for now.

First time in Mérida? Click here for an entertaining self-guided walking tour and discover the best of the city!

Plaza Grande, Mérida

We explore the city from the main square, Plaza Grande. Its prismatic energy echoes the vibrant buildings and lush grassy knolls. It’s also the home to the magnificent Cathédral of Mérida.

Constructed from Mayan ruins, the Cathédral of Mérida, aka San Ildefonso Cathédral, sits on the east side of Plaza Grande. It’s an imposing 16th-century backdrop to the lively promenades, street vendors, and historical buildings.

But, as far as I’m concerned, the multicolored city sign at Plaza Grande is the end-all-be-all tourist attraction. It is the best tourist trap/photo op in Mérida, without question. Even Ella liked it.

‘Welcome to Mérida!’, it shouts, in all colors of the rainbow, ‘We’re so happy you’re here!’. I stopped to take a photograph just as a real-life rainbow appeared behind it. I kid you not. Photo evidence above.

Paseo Montejo, Mérida

On Sundays, the Paseo Montejo, Mérida’s wide, tree-lined street, is closed to pedestrians and cyclists only. Locals and tourists stroll the pavement, listen to music, dance, walk dogs, and brunch on verandas. Inspired by the Champs-Élysées and dotted with palatial Beaux-Arts homes, it’s a way to harness the city’s energy while burning off babka-sized calories.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Cuisine

Local Mayan, Caribbean, Spanish, North African, and Middle Eastern cultures influence Yucatán cuisine. No wonder food is the center of Mérida’s universe.

That we drink and eat our way through the city is an understatement. Ella sums it up well: ‘We didn’t just go for drinks before dinner, we went for drinks at four different places, and then tacos, before dinner.’ Amy and John know how to live. My people.

Panuchos Yucatecan became my favorite Mexican food despite having never heard of it before. Panuchos are two lightly fried corn tortillas with a thin layer of refried black beans between them. They are topped with chicken, pickled onion, and sliced avocado. Indescribably amazing.

I vow only to eat them in Mexico, fearing they can’t be re-created elsewhere. I grab my pen and add it to my list: ‘Best of Mérida: panuchos.’

Interested in a walking Food Tour of Mérida? Click here to learn more!

El Marlín Azul, Mérida

With humble beginnings as a food truck in Merida’s industrial zone, El Marlin Azul is now considered one of the best places to eat in the city. I can speak with culinary confidence about the shrimp ceviche. Amy and John had bought some from the store the morning we arrived—our first foray into Yucatán cuisine. I make another vow, and add another entry: ‘Best of Merida: ceviche at El Marlín Azul’.

Restaurant Micaela, Mérida

Restaurant Micaela’s website claims its food is a tribute to Nana’s cooking, but the vibe is anything but grandmotherly. Micaela’s is a hidden gem in the old town, featuring vivid mural-painted walls, terra cotta tiles, and soft amber lighting. The hustle of its open kitchen further enhances the buzziness. Micaela’s is the kind of place to eat, drink, and linger, which is easy to do when the food is this good.

We order various appetizers for the table, including Crudo de atún (fresh tuna) and Rellenos de queso Oaxaca, followed by steak, short ribs, and other carnivorous entrées. Micaela’s Nana also notes that cooking is her love language. I hear you, Nana—loud and clear.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Cocktails and Tacos

Terraza Picheta is said to have the only terrace overlooking the old city of Mérida, Mexico. When we enter the expansive patio just before sunset, it’s clear they’ve won the Mérida lottery for location.

The views are panoramic and dominated by the cathedral in the east. Our rainbow remains a non-stop photo op until I turn around to re-focus my camera on the setting sun.

One round of drinks and a few appetizers are consumed until the sun is gone. Time for dinner—I think.

Not quite. First, we stop for another cocktail and pre-dinner taco at El Lucero, where I fall in love with the never-before-heard-of panucho. Lanterns hang at varying heights from an enormous vaulted and thatched roof. Palm trees line the stone walls. Marc Anthony’s smoky tenor fills the room.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Cocktails, Tacos, and Jenga

Patio Petanca is the complete opposite of Terraza Picheta. Low-key and hidden to Picheta’s upscale and wide-open. But it still makes the list. Petanca’s graffiti-covered metal door opens up to a game lover’s dream—an outdoor space with two boules courts and piles of games to keep one’s mind sharp throughout happy hour.

In Merida, boules is known as petanque, and the sandy game area takes up nearly all of Patio Petanca’s modest space. Amy and John order mezcal. I have a beer. No, Mom, no one has taken over my blog, I mean, website. I drink beer. But only in Mexico.

A fierce game of Mexican Jenga begins, and Ella eventually topples the tower. Before she can complain, a sudden rainstorm has us fleeing for cover under the thatched bar. There we find, really and truly, the world’s best taco.

If you don’t believe me, Amy, John, and Ella agree. This is the world’s best taco. Petanca has brought in a guest chef from nearby Pico de Gallo, much like Miami’s LIV would bring in DJ Steve Aoki. Well, not exactly the same way.

We want more tacos, but are dangerously late for dinner, which shouldn’t matter as none of us are hungry anymore. I open my notebook: ‘Best of Merida: tacos at Patio Petanca with guest chef from Pico de Gallo.’ My list is growing longer by the minute.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Live Music

Live music abounds in Mérida. You only need to walk down the street and follow your ears. Jazz and Blues lovers won’t want to miss a night at Dzalbay Cantina. Pick a night, any night. Because at Dzalbay, there’s never a night without live music. And with its well-tended bar of 30 beers and delectable cocktails, one night won’t be enough.

Best of Mérida, Mexico: Daytrippin’

You don’t have to be super adventurous, a good swimmer, or even like water to enjoy the cenotes of the Yucatán. Trust me. Cenotes result from centuries-old, collapsing limestone bedrock that forms underground pools. The Yucatán peninsula has over 7,000 cenotes, some of which are thought to have been created by asteroids.

Swimming (or, in my case, wading) in freshwater cenotes is an otherworldly experience. Ancient Mayans believed that cenotes were sacred passages to the underworld. I believe they are a refreshing, ethereal escape from the Mexican sun. Undeniably, they are natural stunners and worth the trip out of town.

Santa Barbara Cenotes, Mérida

We visit the Santa Barbara cenotes on a quiet Monday morning, leaving the house at 9am to beat the crowds. Our driver knows exactly where to go, which is reassuring as the directions on the pamphlet have some cenotes-sized holes. ‘Located entrance of Homún. Take the first turning to the right and following road next to police station’. (sic) Hmmm.

The inexpensive entrance fee covers the bikes and life jackets. Despite my poor aquatic skills, I refuse to wear the life jacket. I get reprimanded three times, one in each of the cenotes. Cascabel, Chacsikín, and Xooch are within a mile of one another—each is more beautiful than the next.

Skip the lines! Click here to get tickets for Merida’s famous cenotes!

At Cascabel, we descend a precarious set of wooden steps toward a secret pool of water. Drippy cave sounds plink and plonk, and well-placed underwater lighting makes the setting even more surreal. There are a few other visitors, but not many. Amy and Ella swim the loop in the cave. I don’t. We hop back on our bikes and head to the other cenotes.

The entrance to the Xooch’ cenote is through a moss-covered arch at the bottom of a steep stone stairway. It theatrically opens to a freshwater pool with a wide-open Simpson-blue sky lighting it from above.

Trees hover precipitously on the crater’s edge, their long roots dangling toward the water’s surface. It feels very Jurassic Park circa 1993, and I half expect to see a pterodactyl swoop overhead. Instead, we see equally prehistoric-looking iguanas.

We float and enjoy the sounds of nature. For a full fifteen minutes, we have Xooch completely to ourselves. Well, almost. One particularly angry iguana gives me the side-eye from his perch on the cave wall. Gringos, he must be thinking in his pea-sized brain, vámanos!

Mayapan Ruins, Mérida

Chichen Itza Ruins are one of Mexico’s most famous Mayan sites, and for good reason. However, some lesser-known sites are equally enticing for those who want ruins for themselves. Mayapan is one of those places, and with a $2.40 entrance fee, there is very little reason not to go. Intrepid guests are free to climb the ancient ruins at their own risk, naturally.

Mayapan is 25 miles from Mérida, in a pueblo called Tecoh. It’s said that Mayapan may have been the last Mayan city to be built and inhabited. The central pyramid is named the Castle of Kukulcan, and I climb its crumbling steps easily, proud of my speed and fearlessness.

Upon reaching the top, panic replaces pride, and my knees buckle. My husband’s voice echoes in my head, ‘Going up is optional. Coming down is mandatory.’ I hate it when he says that. It takes me three times as long to return to Earth. It isn’t pretty, speedy, or fearless. Humbled and sweaty, we head back to Mérida.

Celestún Beach

The sleepy fishing village of Celestún is about an hour or so west of Mérida. With its pristine white sandy beaches lined with coconut trees, you might think that’s plenty of motivation to attract visitors. But this sprawling natural wetland has much more to offer. In addition to being home to over 400 migratory birds, the most famous of which are the stunning pink flamingos, it also has a hidden gem—Baldiosera spring.

Baldiosera Spring is a hidden gem in the Yucatan, reminiscent of a cenote nestled amidst the mangroves. Visitors can access this idyllic spot via boat along the river’s estuaries—a magical addition to any Mérida itinerary.

Click here for a tour of the Ria Celestún Biosphere Reserve to see the resident pink flamingos

Mérida is 🔥

The unassuming luxuries of the Yucatán and Mérida are found behind crumbling facades, upon makeshift stages, and within subterranean pools of water. At first glance, it appears to be an uncomplicated life. After three days of compiling my ‘Best of Mérida’ shortlist, I realize just how much Yucatán history there is here, below the surface, as deep as the cenotes themselves.

To add a little fuel to the fire, consider this. Three days in Mérida, Mexico, will cost less than one at a swanky hotel in Punta Mita. Is budget luxury a thing? It all depends on our definitions of luxury. I have room for both in my travels.

‘Why visit Mérida?’ Because it’s hot. It is in temperature for sure, but even more so as a destination to visit before the rest of the world finds it. Hopefully, this snapshot of one of Mexico’s most understated, richly colored cities sparks Marie Kondo-esque joy.

If not, there’s always Cancun.

Discover Mérida’s Hidden Gems with my E-Guide!
Click here!

First time in Mérida? Click here for an entertaining self-guided walking tour!

Interactive Mérida, Yucatán map with my hot spots

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

Mérida FAQs

Where exactly is Mérida? Tucked into Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, Mérida is about 35 km from the Gulf and has its own international airport, Manuel Crescencio Rejón International. You can also fly into Cancún International Airport and drive three to four hours west, watching the jungle quietly take over the landscape.

When’s the best time to visit? November through March is Mérida’s sweet spot: balmy days, low humidity, and breezy nights that make you want to linger in a courtyard with a mezcal cocktail in hand. Summer brings the heat and humidity, and June through October is the rainy season—though storms here are more cameo appearances than all-day affairs.

Why does everyone love Mérida? Because it’s a city with soul. Colorful facades, Mayan roots, colonial charm, world-class food, and a pace that encourages you to slow down. Stroll Paseo de Montejo, dip into nearby cenotes, listen to live music in the plazas after dark, and you’ll get it.

Is Mérida expensive? Mérida is refreshingly gentle on the wallet. Boutique hotels and chic Airbnbs abound without requiring a trust fund. Tacos are divine and cheap, taxis are easy, and splurges, like tasting menus and rooftop cocktails, won’t leave you wincing when the bill comes.

What can’t I miss? A sunset walk down Paseo de Montejo • A dip in the cool turquoise waters of Cenote X’batun or Cenote San Ignacio • Sunday markets on the Plaza Grande (with churros that could change lives) • A history fix at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya • A day trip to Uxmal or Chichén Itzá because standing beneath a 1,000-year-old pyramid never gets old.

Does working as a digital nomad based in Mexico (or anywhere else) appeal? Look no further than JOOBLE and start packing.

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

March 21, 2025
Where’s Corsica? The Ultimate Guide To Our Corsica Travels

Our Corsica travels take us canyoning through mountains and hiking to mountaintop lakes. Our Corsica travels take us from party beaches to remote ones. Traveling in Corsica is an adventure a day, sprinkled with riverside retreats, clifftop restaurants, and the occasional wild pig.

Where’s Corsica, exactly? And does it belong on your travel wish list? Read on.

“If you don’t project yourself outwards,” our canyoning instructor says calmly, “it will end—how do you say in English—badly.”

I peer over the granite ledge. A gushing waterfall lies to my left, and a rock face extends 30 feet below. I feel, rather than see, my husband and kids doubting me from the water below. ‘Terrified’ vastly understates my singular emotion.

“Project outwards”, our guide repeats. Ever the rule follower, I close my eyes and—

Don’t panic, Mom; it ends well.

Where’s Corsica, exactly?

“Corsica is Italian.”, one friend says. Another assures me it’s Greek. The island of Corsica is closer to mainland Italy than any other country. Yet, surprise!—it’s a territory of France.

Who knew? I sure didn’t. Corsica is as elusive as Keyser Söze in The Usual Suspects. We meet only three other Americans on our trip. A testament to how relatively unknown Corsica is in the United States.

Why visit Corsica? I’ll pretend you asked. Follow along on our island adventures to discover what makes Corsica worth finding on a map.

As an aside, if The Usual Suspects reference escaped you, head over to your sofa and watch it. I’ll wait.

Corsica: What I wish I knew

Corsica is the fourth-largest island in the Mediterranean. There is no public transportation, so renting a car is a must. But be warned: Narrow roads and lanes run serpentine around colossal boulders and cliffs. Hairpin turns are frequent and hair-raising.

There are few, if any, barriers between cars and sudden death. Corsican drivers take to the roads like Lewis Hamilton wannabes. They drive like angry wasps. They laugh at lanes. According to my kids, I gasp 3,000 times. And that number doesn’t include the times I disguise my gasp as a cough.

I’m not making a case for Corsica. Bear with me. It gets better.

Corsica: by the numbers

Corsica is 112 miles long at its longest and 52 miles wide at its widest. It has 620 miles of coastline with 200 beaches. It’s home to the world-famous GR 20 Trail and has over 120 summits. Simmer down Corsica, my flights are booked.

We have 12 days. I want to cover ground but not feel rushed. Visit areas with different terrain and activities. Dine on authentic Corsican food and drink local wine. It’s a tall order, but Corsica delivers.

In Corsica, there are no bad regions (only bad drivers). Note the map of our route above. Those art school fees are really paying off, Dad.

Instead of a linear path (hahaha, there are no linear paths in Corsica!) I’ve outlined the highlights from our three destinations in Corsica. Will any of our adventures inspire you to visit? Let’s find out.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Canyoning, Haut-Corse

I jump—plunging into the cold canyon water with semi-wild abandon. I emerge, still holding my nose, to looks of disbelief (my kids, our guide) and pride (my husband). See, Mom? No need to panic.

“What is canyoning?” you ask. A friend aptly describes canyoning as ‘white water rafting without a raft.’ Hmmm, I don’t even enjoy white water rafting with a raft. The gorges and valleys of the Restonica River are widely known for the sport. If I’m going to try it, I’m in the right place.

After a sweaty 45-minute bathing-suit-clad hike, we put on our wetsuits, helmets, and water shoes. This isn’t pretty. Note the lack of photographic evidence. You’ll have to take me at my word.

We wade into a crystal clear pool of water. It’s crazy fun—to use a technical canyoning term. We scale boulders, swim under waterfalls, jump off cliffs, slide over rocks, and zip line above the river with child-like joy.

White water rafting without a raft turns out to be my new favorite sport.

Corsica Travels: Hiking, Haut-Corse

Our holiday wouldn’t be complete without a ~~treacherous~~ hike organized by my husband. The fact that Daniel and I fight when we hike would lead one to think it’s an activity to be avoided. But, no.

The ride to the trailhead is short yet harrowing. Blind corners with unyielding boulders on one side and unnerving precipices on the other. My kids will say I’m being hyperbolic. Wait. They don’t know what hyperbolic means. They’ll say I’m being emo.

Our goal is a 4-mile in-and-out hike to Lac de Melu in Haut-Corse. The lake sits at an elevation of 5,610 ft. Why we never visit sea-level lakes as regular people do baffles me. The views, (it pains me to admit), are worth the struggle. Don’t tell Daniel.

The landscape is prehistoric. I feel small—like ‘on the set of Jurassic Park’ small. Instead of ferocious dinosaurs, though, we encounter docile cows. Tall pines and fragrant alders look tiny against the towering, jagged mountains that loom in the distance.

Rangy rock faces glisten in the colors of Olympic medals. A gold medal is exactly what I’ll deserve after a day dodging cow dung with two moody teenagers. That, and a vodka tonic.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Coastal Towns and Vineyards

Choosing which towns to visit on an island with 650 miles of coastline is challenging. But I rise to it. Three exceptional examples follow.

PORTO-VECCHIO

Porto-Vecchio is a harbor town in southeast Corsica. Its focal point is Eglise St. Jean-Baptiste, a 19th-century church tower. Beside the church, an old-fashioned merry-go-round slowly rotates, delighting children.

Boutiques, wine shops, and restaurants are abuzz on the piazza. The heartbeat of Porto-Vecchio is palpable. A lovely introduction to Corsican life.

BONIFACIO

Bonifacio towers over the southernmost tip of Corsica. Its sculpted chalk-white limestone cliffs plunge dramatically into the Mediterranean Sea. These imposing sea walls make Bonifacio one of the most popular places to visit in Corsica.

Bonifacio is as picturesque as it is historical. The Staircase of King Aragon sits 200 feet above the sea. It was built in 1420 to access a freshwater well. Each of the 189 irregular stone steps is an accident waiting to happen, yet they are the highlight of my day.

After I reach the bottom, I walk along and under caves of eroding limestone. The Mediterranean views are interrupted only by paper-white sails of passing schooners. The water is luminous.

The downside of King Aragon’s arduous steps is as clear as the sea. What goes down must come up. I curse you, King Aragon. My quads still hurt.

PATRIMONIO

Patrimonio is considered Corsica’s best-known wine region. Our drive through Patrimonio reveals patterns of terraced vineyards in the foreground and Saint Florent Bay in the background. It’s a spectacular setting to sample the wines of the region. As an added bonus, it requires no death-defying roads.

We visit Domaine Leccia and Orenga de Gaffory wineries. Since I’m the only one in my family who enjoys wine tasting, I’m forced to drink at record speed. Corsicans do nothing at record speed except drive. Needless to say, I do nothing to alter American stereotypes. I hope the other three Americans in Corsica are better behaved.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Hilltop Villages

While visiting Corsica’s numerous hilltop villages, we hear pealing church bells celebrating a local wedding. We sit on lively piazzas with glasses of cloudy Pastis—a centuries-old pastime. Visiting these villages is another highlight of our Corsica travels.

Learn about private wine-tasting tours near Calvi. Click here!

NONZA

Nonza is located along another sea cliff wall. This time on the west coast of Cap Corse. Nonza is so tiny that by the time we realize we’ve reached it, we’ve passed it. My husband does an 18-point K-turn and finds a place to park. I make a mental note that arguing while driving has surpassed arguing while hiking.

The village centers around the 16th-century church of Saint-Julie. Its bright orange facade stands out against the village’s otherwise white-washed, ancient buildings. Wild oleander is in bloom, in colors to inspire Nars’ next lip gloss shades.

We have lunch at La Sassa, an outdoor-only restaurant with a low-key party vibe and Michelin-worthy food. It is 160 meters above the beach and overhangs the sea.

White-capped waves swirl below, and the Genoese Tower of Nonza soars above—an unparalleled lunch setting, indeed.

Reservations are a must at La Sassa. I’m not proud to admit it, but I felt smug watching hungry onlookers envy my tuna tartare.

CORTE

Corte lies deep in the mountainous interior of the island. The air smells of pine, the humidity is low, and rivers and waterfalls rumble gently in the distance.

Although crowded, the town of Corte feels untouched by mainstream tourism. The piazza overflows with locals. A musician croons. I notice people sitting on windowsills above—catching notes as they rise into the sky. I capture a snapshot of Corsican life in my mind rather than with my camera.

Corte steals my heart in the subtlest ways, with its hidden pottery studios, produce markets, and a spectacular citadel piercing the sky. When I return home, I’ll remember these moments—the simplicity and authenticity—and I’ll miss them.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

OLETTA

Oletta is the opposite of the lively and musical Corte. It’s eerily quiet, with jagged stone steps and paths that weave intricately around the village. Flowers and vines climb crumbling stone walls and overflow from ceramic pots. How they grow is a mystery, as Oletta’s narrow, sleepy streets hardly allow for sunlight to reach them.

One evening, we dine in the village, and the residents magically appear—playing cards, laughing, and drinking. Where have they been hiding?

We sit outdoors at A Forge, a restaurant overlooking the valley. By the time we head back to our hotel, everyone has disappeared, and the town is silent again.

Corsica Travels: Beaches

The beaches surrounding Corsica range from nearly deserted, boat-access only to restaurant-lined with a party vibe. For the sake of keeping my audience engaged (are you still with me?), two of many standouts follow.

THE LAVEZZI ISLANDS ARCHIPELAGO

The Lavezzi Islands Archipelago, in southern Corsica, is just a few miles from Bonifacio’s formidable limestone walls. Accessible only by boat, it’s an aquatic playground for divers and snorkelers alike.

Some islands are quiet, with gigantic granite boulders that break the water’s glassy surface. Coral reefs are chock full of colorful schools of fish.

Other islands are a party on the sea with tranquil, waist-deep water. This creates a pop-up pool party atmosphere that is impossible not to enjoy. Think bikini-clad (and yikes, Speed-O-clad) people dancing on boats, in-water volleyball games, and colorful inflatable rafts floating on the placid Mediterranean Sea.

Discover the Lavezzi islands and the cliffs of Bonifacio by boat! Click her e.

AGRIATES DESERT

The Agriates Desert, in Northern Corsica, is a barren and dry coastline mainly accessible by boat. Any day in Corsica that doesn’t require driving is my kind of day.

But calling this 40km stretch of protected land a desert is misleading. The Agriates Desert is home to Corsica’s most remote beaches: Windswept, scrub-covered, wild, and sun-scorched.

Windex-colored waters, pale limestone boulders, and wide stretches of golden sand make this part of the Corsican coast so appealing. The air is heavy with history and the scent of the island’s ubiquitous maquis.

Maquis is a scrubby, untamed shrub that covers much of Corsica’s hills. Its scent combines at least nine herbs, including eucalyptus, juniper, rosemary, and heather. The scent is so popular that the famous French perfumery Diptique makes a maquis-scented candle. For $72, I can relive my Corsica memories from home.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Retreats and Hotels

Each of our three accommodations in Corsica is equally enchanting—from riverside retreats to hilltop and beachside boutique hotels. When I ask the kids which place is their favorite, they can’t decide. Well done, me.

LES BERGERIES DE PALOMBAGGIA

Les Bergeries de Palombaggia, in Porto-Vecchio, is a Relais & Chateaux property seven miles from Sardinia. This Italian island’s silhouette provides a never-ending and beautiful backdrop to our stay. Grazie, Italia.

Life at Les Bergeries centers around its inviting infinity-edged pool. The views at sunset, when the sky mirrors the sea, are especially spectacular. Palombaggia Beach is a short, convenient, and pretty walk from the hotel.

The sea air is filled with the aromatic herbs of the maquis. Les Bergeries’ old terra cotta roof tiles have faded to rich hues of sienna and mocha. I spot olive trees with silvery sage leaves and vibrant green umbrella pines. Les Bergeries’ color palette is as French as it gets. The overall vibe is ‘low-key fancy’—my favorite kind.

HIGHLIGHTS Breakfast with locally made jams, crêpes, brioches, and traditional Fiodone (Corsican cheesecake) / La Table de Mina’s poolside dining patio at sunset / Suites with hydrangea-filled balconies overlooking the pool and sea

Check Availability at Les Bergeries de Palambaggia here

HOTEL DOMINIQUE COLONNA

Dominique Colonna, in Corte, is a riverside boutique hotel. Inspired by nature, its charm lies in sheer simplicity. Intentionally spartan in design, the rooms are divine, with small balconies facing the river.

The hotel’s low-impact exterior respectfully sits within the dramatic mountainous scenery. Dominique Colonna is a sublime spot from which we launch our Haut-Corse adventures. But the grounds are so welcoming and intimate that I’m hard-pressed to leave it each day.

HIGHLIGHTS Impeccably-maintained Mediterranean gardens that showcase dwarf olive trees, climbing white jasmine, and Florentine cypresses / The tiered riverside terrace for a breakfast of housemade granolas and local honey / A private massage cube made of wood and glass, nestled in the woods by the pool

Check Availability at Hotel Dominique Colonna here

AETHOS U PALAZZU SERENU

U Palazzu Serenu, in Oletta, was once a 17th-century palace. After a complete restoration, this nine-room hotel is now basking in its original glory. This classic, austere, contemporary boutique hotel has rooms and common spaces designed in layers of white.

Our suite’s white-louvered windows have all-encompassing views of vineyards and Saint Florent Bay. Recycled wood, museum-worthy art, and artfully chosen coffee table books make the rooms feel personal and homey.

U Palazzu Serenu’s unique selling point is its secret access to Oletta. A creaky back gate hidden behind the pool’s tiered lounging area allows me to explore Oletta whenever I want. I go each day, searching for signs of life. Mainly, I see feral cats.

HIGHLIGHTS The small, sheltered dining space by the pool is by reservation only. It serves ‘Italian classics with a Corsican twist.’ The artwork and sculptures are by renowned artists such as Paul de Pignol, Wendy Wischer, and Udo Nöger. The pool. Views from the pool. Drinks at the pool.

In Corsica, All’s Well That Ends Well

It’s pretty hard not to fall for Corsica. Even if that means intentionally falling from a 30-foot granite ledge into a gurgling river. I placed my trust in this rugged, craggy, and far-flung island. I was ever-rewarded.

The beauty of Corsica is in the adventures, but it’s also in the details—the colorful facade of a hilltop church against emerald green mountains. Wild oleander poking through an ancient stone wall beside an abandoned Genoese tower. A pottery studio found only by following wooden signs through a maze-like village. Wild pigs grazing on the side of the road.

As I said, it’s hard not to fall for Corsica. Just don’t forget to project outwards. You won’t regret it.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Ready to travel—but can’t find the time to plan?

Anyone can Google a destination, but finding the right sources, the hidden gems, the places worth your time—well, that’s an art that takes time. I’ll cut through the noise, saving you from hours of searching in the wrong places. Each of my recommendations is researched with your specific trip in mind.

After visiting 70 countries on 7 continents, I know how overwhelming travel planning can be.

But I also know how to make it easy. And exciting. And stress-free.

Click here to learn more about Jamie Edwards Travel Coaching

My research. Your adventure.

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

May 10, 2024
In 1950, A Party Started At Eden Rock St. Barths. It’s Still Going.

I walk through the airport’s cool, frosted glass doors. Salt-tinged air warms my face. Out here, the party’s in full swing. People gather with glasses in hand. Bottles of Chassagne-Montrachet chill in buckets of ice at their feet. Bursts of laughter radiate from the well-heeled crowd as a rainbow assortment of Minis and Mokes whizzes behind them. It feels like happy hour on a breezy NYC rooftop, not airport arrivals.

I scan the crowd. Our villa manager is easy to spot. He’s wearing tell-tale Eden Rock red. Fred greets us as if we’re old friends. ‘Are you ready?’ he asks with a cheeky grin. It’s unclear what he means by ‘ready.’ But whatever it is, we unanimously agree that we are.

Eden Rock St. Barths—allons-y!

Eden Rock is Rooted in 1950s Glamour

Let’s back up a few decades to set the scene. In the early 1950s, French aviator and adventurer Rémy de Haenen built a hotel on a rocky promontory overlooking a secluded turquoise bay in St. Barths. Rémy dreamed his hotel would become a destination for the rich and famous. It didn’t take long for him to get his wish. Greta Garbo, Howard Hughes, and other celebrities soon christened red-roofed Eden Rock their Caribbean hideaway.

In 1995, Jane and David Matthews purchased Eden Rock from de Haenen. As the story goes, the Matthews (aka Pippa Middleton’s in-laws) sailed to the island and became immediately smitten. Furthering Rémy’s flair for all things fabulous, the Matthews added clifftop cottages and palatial suites, catapulting Eden Rock St. Barths into one of the world’s leading hotels.

Two decades later, the Matthews partnered with Oetker Collection to manage the property, further elevating its already high standards of luxury. Today, one could just as quickly spot a rockstar or an NFL quarterback sitting beside an aging politician or a teenage influencer.

Not a rock star? ‘So what?’ There’s room (and rooms) in St. Barths for all. But the glamour of this chic French island comes at a price—especially if the Eden Rock Hotel or one of its 150 private villas are involved.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

The Arrival

En route to our hilltop home away from home, a prop plane passes overhead. And by overhead, I mean I can practically touch it. We navigate a small roundabout where people gather with iPhones shooting video—a popular island activity. In the near distance, the Eden Rock Hotel comes into view. A departing plane is so close to the water it nearly takes the floppy hat off a sunbather.

There are many hotels on St. Barths with dramatic views. But only at Eden Rock can one watch charter planes arrive and depart from the comfort of a cushy sunlounger. Anywhere else, a hotel this close to the runway would be a dealbreaker vacation-wise. Leave it to the French to flip the script. The thrilling take-offs and landings are part of the island’s joie de vivre.

Gray Malin’s ‘The Arrival’

At 2,100 feet long, the runway on St. Barths is one of the world’s shortest, so only small planes can land. Therefore, most people (aside from those who fly private) connect through a neighboring island, usually St. Maarten or Puerto Rico.

To put an exclamation point on this long narrative about a short runway, fine-art photographer Gray Malin chose this very subject for his famous à la plage series. ‘The Arrival’ is one of his best-selling prints, no doubt adorning living room walls from Paris to LA.

The Eden Rock Bubble

It’s easy to get caught up in the Eden Rock bubble. Everyone in it looks so glamorous. Women wear gem-toned Missoni kaftans with oversized woven hats. Men don crisp white linen shirts, pastel-colored shorts, and Italian espadrilles. Their sunkissed kids trail behind them on their way to the Sand Bar for truffle-topped pizzas. It’s island eye candy all around.

The Eden Rock bubble has its own boutique. Did you forget that cute boho dress you planned to wear to Bagatelle? It’s Zimmermann’s crochet wrap to the rescue. Suddenly desperate for a tote that mirrors the bay’s exact shade of blue? Goyard’s Turquoise St. Louis bag with matching beach towel has you covered.

Blue, white, and red may be sewn into the island’s fabric, but the labels are decidedly Off White and Orlebar Brown.

Eden Rock St. Barths, The Hotel

In September 2017, the Eden Rock Hotel suffered extensive damage from Hurricane Irma. By 2019, it had reopened its welcoming red doors to guests eager to reclaim paradise. Eden Rock returned to its former glory with 37 rooms, a Jean-George Vongerichten restaurant, a new world-class spa, and an attentive and absurdly attractive staff of over 200 strong.

Other hotel highlights include the British-Colonial-style Rémy Bar, on-beach spa treatments, professional sunscreen attendants (not a typo), and a roving frosé trolley. Because mon dieu!—at these rates, no one should have to leave their sunlounger for a glass of Whispering Angel.

PC: Eden Rock

Incredibly, all 37 rooms and suites at Eden Rock are individually curated. Jane Matthews lovingly designed them, showcasing local and international artwork at every turn. Some rooms are on the beach, and others are on its famous rocks. All are spectacular.

Inspired by a schooner, the Captain’s Room has brass portholes, maritime leather seats, and a private pool. Spencer’s Room is perched on the face of the rock and pays homage to Africa with eclectic carved wooden masks, woven rugs, and a regal four-poster bed. Then there’s the Pippa, the Garbo, and the Howard Hughes. How to choose? A champagne problem, indeed.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

PC: Eden Rock

Villa Like a Rockstar

There isn’t a superlative that hasn’t been used to describe the Eden Rock Hotel. This puts me at a loss for words to describe their most extravagant villa. At 17,000 square feet, Villa Rockstar is called ‘a two hundred million dollar yacht on land.’ Between us, that isn’t much of a selling point. I’d rent a yacht if I wanted to be on a yacht. But who am I to question the marketing team of one of the leading hotels in the world?

Villa Rockstar has everything you could ever need and just as many things you don’t. The six-bedroom villa’s secluded location lies behind 10-foot walls on St. Jean’s beach. One of the many oversized bathrooms is circular and tiled in (wait for it) white gold. Rockstar has a dedicated chef and butler service around the clock, a 20-meter heated pool, and a jacuzzi. According to the website, Villa Rockstar also has a ‘basement full of surprises.’

PC: Eden Rock

Other amenities include daily breakfast delivery, a fully-equipped techno-gym, a multi-car-filled garage, a private business office, and a custom-designed Italian kitchen. While I don’t know who is driving, cooking, working, or exercising when they visit Villa Rockstar, I would trade it all for breakfast delivery. The brioche at Eden Rock is no joke.

The website also ensures guests that ‘privacy and discretion’ are Villa Rockstar’s watch words. Is that the same thing as safe words? Safe words aren’t just for the bedroom anymore. Does this have anything to do with the surprises in the basement? Grab eleven of your closest friends and party like a rockstar at Villa Rockstar. When you discover what’s hidden in the basement, please share.

Villa Neo and Eden Rock’s 148 Other Villas

Villa Rockstar notwithstanding, Eden Rock has private villas across the island for (nearly) all budgets. Eden Rock conveniently divides its villa portfolio among four categories: Classic, Deluxe, Prestige, and Ultraluxe. If you think classic is code for inexpensive, you’d be incorrect. Nothing is inexpensive on St. Barths. Instead, think of classic as code for least expensive. And even then, prepare for sticker shock.

Neo is a six-bedroom supermodern ultraluxe villa. It has glass staircases, glass walls, and glass sculptures. The pool spans the length of the villa and towers high above St. Jean’s beach. Neo’s outside space is sprawling with double-bed sunloungers and wide umbrellas.

Some bathrooms have deep soaking tubs (alas, none tiled in white gold) and spacious balconies. The kitchen is not ornamental. Our chef, Eric, whips up fabulous French meals there every day. That we’re spoiled is evident.

Breakfast is a daily delight—and more decadent with each passing morning. Airy crépes on Monday, Belgian waffles with berries on Tuesday, fluffy frittatas on Wednesday… you get the idea. That every meal Eric creates comes with baguettes, brioches, and croissants does nothing to help our waistlines. We waddle to the Eden Rock boutique to buy bigger kaftans.

After a week of fantastic in-villa meals, Eric tells us he’s never seen a group consume so much bread. We pat our bellies proudly and take it as a compliment—though I’m pretty sure it isn’t.

Dining Beyond the Bubble

With all the French carbohydrates one could desire, you may question why we’d ever leave the ~~bubble~~ villa. St. Barths has a world-class dining scene, which always includes incredible people-watching in chic settings with DJs and live music. So get out, we do, and it’s worth it.

Three standout meals are Sella, Bagatelle, and Nikki Beach. Each restaurant incorporates a party element to accompany the food and wine. At Sella, Jerusalem-born, Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit serves Middle Eastern cuisine in an amber-infused, low-lit waterfront setting. The DJ’s hypnotic Arabic music fuses intricate melodies and rhythmic patterns with charred meats and vegetables. We all love it.

Bagatelle starts typically enough—with a convivial dinner party vibe. But by the time the appetizers arrived, the DJ had ratcheted up the music so loud that I couldn’t hear my husband. As the entrées appeared, guests and servers started dancing.

Then, models began weaving around the dancers in cute boho dresses. Champagne corks spiral through the air. John Legend is singing Happy Birthday. Bagatelle is not a restaurant; it’s a bar mitzvah.

Just Another Sunday at Nikki Beach

Nikki Beach deserves a post of its own. And maybe one day, when strapped for content, I’ll write it. Until then, believe me when I say a trip to St. Barths without Sunday brunch at Nikki Beach is a big mistake.

Sundays at Nikki Beach are legendary in St. Barths. It’s a Caribbean darty (to use my least favorite word but most favorite concept). The great thing about a daytime party is that you can have fun whether you are 8, 18, or 88. And at Nikki Beach, ‘fun’ could mean a sparkler-topped bottle of Veuve Clicquot, a hot French saxophonist dancing on your table, or a gladiator towing a sorority girl around on a chariot. On our Sunday, fun included all of the above.

Colorful sushi boats filled with seared ahi tuna, red caviar-topped salmon, and pink ebi sail around the room. As the music tempo increases, the crowd rises to the occasion (literally and figuratively). People kick off their shoes and dance like no one is watching. Although, of course, everyone is. We order a bottle of Dom and go for it. Nikki Beach is the place to splurge on the most splurge-worthy island in the Caribbean.

“Are You Ready?”

I think back to Fred’s cheeky grin seven days ago. I’m sure he knew we’d need a vacation to recover from our vacation. I’m sure he knew we’d have baguette withdrawal, suffer from severe sleep deficit, and have hearing loss in one, if not both, ears. After so many years tending to guests’ needs in the Eden Rock bubble, he’s seen it all. No wonder he was smiling.

At the airport, newly arriving guests exit as I enter the frosted glass doors. Salt-tinged air warms their faces. I take one last glance behind me. I see signature Eden Rock red shirts and bottles of ice-cold Chablis. Glasses clink. Laughter fills the air. A rainbow assortment of Minis and Mokes whizzes by on the street.

In St. Barth’s, the party never ends.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

April 5, 2024
5 of the Best Caribbean Beach Bars

My top five favorite Caribbean beach bars and restaurants are personal. They’re based on my memories of food, wine, people, and views. My top five list might change over time, but these are the Caribbean beach bars and beach clubs that keep my travel memories alive and kicking.

My Top Five Caribbean Beach Bars

When assessing the best beach bars, suffice it to say that I have a few baseline requirements. A vibe that naturally pairs with the island’s culture is one. Combining tourists and locals adds authenticity and credibility, and festive air helps. The food (if served) is at a culinary level that matches the establishment’s look and atmosphere. And lastly, a USP (Unique Selling Point) that makes me yearn to go back months after the holiday has ended.

Except for Anegada, I’ve been fortunate enough to visit the following Caribbean beach clubs and bars more than once. That qualifies me as an expert in my own experiences, that is. Next time you find yourself in the Caribbean (and let’s all agree that we hope that time is soon), let me know if you concur. Or better yet, tell me about your favorite Caribbean bars and restaurants.

Click Here For My Free Caribbean Beach Bar Hot Sheet

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 5 / Basil’s Bar, Mustique

Island Vibe: Celebrity Secret Hideaway

Basil’s is a Caribbean beach bar and restaurant leisurely perched on the edge of Britannia Bay in Mustique. It attempts to camouflage the island’s undercover glamour. Lush and verdant, Mustique has only two hotels and two restaurants. Its beauty is hiding in plain sight among the breezy Windward Islands.

Why I like Basil’s: Chill, open-air, Basil’s woos villa owners, villa renters, reclusive celebrities, and yachties alike, with a combination of casual food (like perfectly seasoned grilled lobsters), a low-key atmosphere, and spectacular sea views.

I’ll admit, though, that I have little memory of the food because the setting is the star, day, and night. Mega-yachts and sublime sailboats were anchored in the distance, which created another layer to this Caribbean bar’s swoon-worthy backdrop.

USP: I like to settle into the indoor/outdoor living spaces and nooks or park myself on one of the wooden stools overlooking the tranquil Caribbean Sea.

Worth mentioning: Live Music/DJ Nights/Basil’s Boutique/Accessible by car or boat

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 4 / Catherine’s Café, Antigua

Island Vibe: Casual European Beach

To say Catherine’s is a Caribbean beach club that is comfortable in her own skin is an understatement. Open-air, louver-shuttered, sea-breezy Catherine’s Café on the island of Antigua lazes under warm, butter-yellow Veuve Cliquot umbrellas.

Why I like Catherine’s: Catherine’s barefoot casual Caribbean beach bar feels like Europe. I see naked toddlers running amok with their half-naked mums chasing them. It boasts a French-inspired menu and a well-thought-out wine list.

I can’t forget our effervescent bartender, Damien, who kept us in good spirits. Neem trees enshroud the hidden location. It practically begs one to spend an afternoon there—which is exactly what we did.

USP: The cozy and intimate beach area adjacent to the bar offers lovely bay views in a secluded setting.

Worth mentioning: Live Music/Cheese Course/G+T Menu/Bakery/Boutique/Accessible by car or boat

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 3 / The Rum Bar, Cooper Island

Island Vibe: Desert-Island Barefoot Beach Shack

Our sailboat grabbed one of the last available moorings in Manchioneel Bay, off the shores of Cooper Island. I felt like a survivor about to crawl onto a deserted beach. The people lazing on the wooden decks of the Rum Bar were scrappy and barefooted, semi-drunk, and happily marooned. It was as if we had found a hidden outpost, a tiny island jewel box, where a lucky few were escaping the outside world. Idyllic.

Why I like The Rum Bar: Cooper Island has an authenticity that is somewhat unique to the British Virgin Islands, which are often heavy with tourists and can sometimes feel manufactured.

A clear sign that the Rum Bar, part of the modest Cooper Island Beach Club, is all it’s cracked up to be was that we noticed yacht crews hanging at the bar—the real-life version of ‘Below Deck.’ If the Rum Bar was where they chose to spend their limited free time, we knew we were on to something good. It‘s definitely a Caribbean beach bar worth exploring.

USP: The remote and rickety beach shack-chic setting that, true to its name, houses 280 different rums.

Worth mentioning: Bakery/Barista/Accessible only by boat/Arrive early to get one of the 30 coveted moorings

Click Here For My Free Caribbean Beach Bar Hot Sheet

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 2 / Anegada, Cow Wreck Beach Bar

Island Vibe: Utterly Remote Castaway

Seventeen nautical miles from Virgin Gorda sits the pancake flat, remote island of Anegada. The name Anegada means ‘drowned island.’ At only 28 feet tall at its highest elevation, it could not feel farther away from civilization. That’s exactly what makes this Caribbean beach bar and restaurant so enchanting.

Why do they call it Cow Wreck Beach, I wondered? In 1929, a 380-foot-long steel freighter called The Rocus was heading from Trinidad to Baltimore. The Rocus’s cargo was filled with cow bones that would later be ground into fertilizer.

Unfortunately, The Rocus made an unexpected and devastatingly final stop when she collided with Anegada’s treacherous Horseshoe Reef. Since the wreck, the ocean floor has remained eerily scattered with cow bones. As for the freighter, it’s still lodged on its starboard side just beneath the water’s surface. It hasn’t budged an inch since 1929.

Why I like Cow Wreck: There are thousands of sea urchin shells in every size and all the varying degrees of white that the sun can bleach. The sea is a color that one would immediately assume is an Instagram filter. The open-air beach bar has peeling paint, plastic chairs, and dive-y, no-frills decor.

USP: A Caribbean beach bar that is this challenging to get to only adds to its allure.

Worth mentioning: Wreck Punch/Lobster/Bar games/Accessible only by boat or ferry

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 1 / St. Barths, Nikki Beach

Island Vibe: Over-the-top beach club party

There’s nowhere else in the Caribbean quite like St. Barths. Authentic French through and through, the words St. Barths conjure up Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous glamour. Nikki Beach is ideally situated to soak up the island’s eternally sun-filled vibes.

Imagine the days when Greta Garbo and other Hollywood stars walked these very shores. Now imagine Beyonce and Jay-Z at the table beside you. Nikki Beach gradually turns up the volume throughout their two Sunday seatings. You will never want the party to end.

Why I like Nikki Beach: Dance on the tables with wild abandon whether you are 8, 18, or 88. The upbeat party on the beach is for everyone. Order one of the famous sushi boats to go along with your 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet. Go wild and pair vintage Dom Perignon with an ounce or two of caviar. The sky is the limit here in every way. No one goes home hungry or thirsty without a beachy glow after a day at Nikki Beach.

USP: Glam, glam, and more glam. Part Caribbean beach club and part beach bar, it offers killer views of St. Jean’s Bay and incredible people-watching for hours on end.

Worth mentioning: Reservations are a must/Live DJ/Special occasion splurge

Dream job: If becoming a bartender abroad is your life goal, look no further than JOOBLE for inspiration.

Click Here For My Free Caribbean Beach Bar Hot Sheet

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

February 6, 2024
From Jamaica, With Love: The Goldeneye Resort Review

Our van takes a sharp left from the busy road through a small gap in an unassuming stone wall. Twisted tree limbs dangle over it and I have the urge to hold my breath as we squeeze through. I peer out the rear window, half expecting the gap to close up and disappear into the overgrowth. I’ve arrived at Goldeneye in Jamaica, the very place where James Bond was brought to life by author Ian Fleming. Although I’ve been on the grounds all of seven seconds, its magnetic pull is undeniable.

It’s another world in here.

Why Jamaica?

We choose Jamaica for utilitarian and unromantic reasons. It’s less than two weeks until the avalanche otherwise known as Christmas arrives and Jamaica is a non-stop three-hour flight from DC. Perfect. I need a quick getaway to find my holiday spirit. I hope it fits in my carry-on. I’ve overpacked as usual.

Our driver is easy to spot, holding up a small sign that reads ‘Goldeneye’. I smile, imagining myself beachside within the hour. ‘How far to the resort?’, I ask, ready to get out of my bulky plane clothes. ‘Two hours’, he replies with a wide grin. I throw my head back and laugh, having heard this joke before. ‘No, really.’ I say, ‘How far?’ Still smiling, but not joking, he repeats, ‘Two hours.’ Ugh.

But, once we pass the mega, all-inclusive resorts of Montego Bay, the ride is a snap. I take mental notes as we traverse the northern coast of the island: uninterrupted views of the Caribbean Sea, colorful rowboats in shallow salt marshes, hot pink oleander hovering over narrow medians, and banded palm trees lining crescent coves.

Before I know it, two hours have elapsed. As a bonus, I’m completely relaxed.

Our van takes a sharp left… oh wait, you know that part. Moving on.

Goldeneye, Jamaica: A Brief History

Super fans of 007 will likely know that Jamaica is where Ian Fleming wrote his famous British spy series. In 1946, Mr. Fleming, a former British soldier himself, built Goldeneye, a villa perched majestically on a sea cliff with expansive Caribbean views. At one time, Goldeneye was the social epicenter of the island, with guests like Truman Capote, Princess Margaret, and Errol Flynn coming and going throughout the year.

Twelve years after Mr. Fleming died, reggae pioneer Bob Marley bought the estate. Shortly thereafter, he sold it to Island Records founder, Chris Blackwell who added 25 acres to the original 15 and converted the property into a small hotel.

James Bond is the most charming secret agent in history. And while I’m a big fan, I’ll admit now that I was a tad nervous about the Bond theme being too, well, theme-y. It’s not. There are subtle nods, like the License to Chill cocktail I enjoyed at Button Beach every day. But, that’s about it. So, if you’re a 007 enthusiast hoping for a Bond-themed lazy river or paragliding excursion, manage your expectations.

Goldeneye hasn’t lost its original allure. Celebrities, models, and rock stars alike visit today—just not the week we are there, unfortunately.

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Rooms With A View, At Goldeneye

Goldeneye has three types of rooms; beach villa, lagoon cottage, or beach hut. Despite being within such close proximity to one another, they are very different. As the name implies, beach villas are on the beach. Unlike other resorts where a beach villa might mean you have to walk (gasp!) five minutes to said beach, Goldeneye’s beach villas are located in the sand, just steps from the water.

Let me flog my point. I pack four pairs of shoes, including the sneakers (or trainers, this is a former English colony!) I wore on the plane. Once at the resort, I don’t wear shoes. Not to dinner, not to the spa. Not at all. I’m pretty much walking on sand the entire time I’m there. If Goldeneye doesn’t define ‘barefoot luxury’ I’ll eat my shoe (I mean, trainer).

Our villa has a wide-covered veranda and two beach loungers on either side of a large umbrella facing Low Cay. The decor is beach shack fancy, Jamaica-style. Aka rustic. Our villa has dark wood accents, bright batik-dyed colored fabrics, a claw-footed tub, and a refreshing outdoor shower.

A full kitchen we never use has a Smeg refrigerator that keeps our Red Stripe and bottled water cold. The gauzy netting above our king bed isn’t decorative, which worries me. That I wake up bite-free each morning is a mosquito miracle.

The Blue Lagoon (Cottages)

The lagoon cottages would be my second choice of accommodation at Goldeneye. Perched directly on the calm, warm lagoon, they’re unlike anything I’ve seen in the Caribbean. The lagoon people can swim from their private docks to search for giant sea turtles lurking below the surface. They can tie their kayaks up to the dock after a late afternoon paddle.

It all feels very Blue Lagoon circa 1980—sans Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins. I’ll bet they’ve been past guests. I make a note to check the guest book.

Hut Life

Goldeneye’s beach huts are a world unto themselves, clustered between Button Beach and Snorkeler’s Cove. Contrary to the name, beach huts are not on the beach. They are huts near the beach. It’s an important nuance. Some huts are raised ten feet from the ground and overlook flower-filled gardens and paths. Others have private verandas and outdoor showers.

According to Goldeneye’s website, hut life is about casualness and simplicity. It states that the freestanding huts are special because of the louvered windows that control the light and breeze. To me, this is code for no air conditioning. But, if you’d like a basic, primal, louvered window wooden cabana near the beach, consider hut life.

Pretty windows notwithstanding, if we ever wondered if we were hut people, the huts at Goldeneye assure us we aren’t.

Simple Luxury, at Goldeneye

Our waiter does a little jig between the tables, singing along with the music, a wide smile on his face. The Field Spa hut dangles over the lagoon’s edge and I enjoy a warm foot bath on the veranda while awaiting my massage. Johnny cakes for breakfast and homemade plantain chips with snapper ceviche for lunch. The simple luxury of Goldeneye is in the details.

Sea turtle nests are found around the beach villas. Wooden signs acknowledge their locations and lighting is kept intentionally low to accommodate them. The benefit of tiki torches being our sole source of light means we can see constellations overhead with such clarity I walk into more than one palm tree while stargazing.

This could be 1964, 1974, or 2004. I doubt much has changed at Goldeneye in Jamaica over the decades. It’s no-frills, simple luxuries like these that have guests returning again and again.

To Do, Or Not To Do

At Goldeneye, I do practically nothing. If there was ever a place to do nothing, this is it. I don’t leave the property. Aside from eating, drinking, and sleeping, here’s a list of what I did:

I read The Heaven and Earth Grocery Store, by James McBride. If you haven’t read it you are missing out on some seriously fine writing. No offense, Mr. Fleming.

I kayaked around the lagoon. It was so serene and peaceful that I did it twice.

I had a sports massage. This wasn’t serene or peaceful. My mistake—I should have chosen better.

In four days, my step counter totals under 5,000 steps. It probably thought I was dead.

Who Goes to Goldeneye?

Aside from all the celebrities we don’t see at Goldeneye, the resort caters to normal people who want complete seclusion in a lush, tropical setting. There’s plenty for kids to do, snorkeling, swimming, and an array of other water sports like sailing and SUP. But once the sun goes down, it’s pin-drop quiet. While that’s appealing to me, who believes a good night’s sleep is a gift from the gods, kids might disagree.

We come to Goldeneye seeking escape, not adventure. Goldeneye delivers. Natural beauty is everywhere. The Caribbean Sea, turquoise lagoons, fiery sunsets, and thousands of trees. We see trees in every stage of life, from newly planted plum, almond, and mango trees to mature orange, coconut, and apple trees.

Many of these trees have signs displaying who donated them. Goldeneye’s innovative plant-a-tree program means guests can tell friends at home that their mango tree grows beside Kate Moss’s coconut one. Your bragging rights are helping to sustain the planet. One thousand dollars well spent.

Goldeneye: The Antidote to the Mega-Resort

Ian Fleming may be long gone, but his creativity lives on in this picturesque and remote coastal part of Jamaica. It’s all too easy to see how one can be inspired here. The gentle, lapping waves, mesmerizing sea turtles, starry nights, and whistling birds are just a few of the reasons Goldeneye Resort is so captivating.

Forget what you think you know about Jamaica. It’s not only mega-resorts with water slides, pirate-themed water parks, and ‘frozé all day’. Not that there’s anything wrong with frozé. Actually, everything is wrong with frozé, but that’s an opinion for a future post.

It’s another world behind the stone walls of Goldeneye. Channel your inner secret agent. The one who needs to relax after saving the world from total destruction (or trying to get your son into college, etc). Find a reason to go barefoot and fancy-free for a few days. Bring a book. Consider Casino Royale—the very one that kickstarted Fleming’s famous series.

Or do nothing at all.

See what all the fuss is about at Goldeneye. Click here!

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December 15, 2023
Sugar Beach is The Caribbean’s Ultimate Family Friendly Resort

Sugar Beach, St. Lucia—When my family heads off on a beach holiday, some of us want to do everything, and some of us want to do nothing. Usually, I want to do a little bit of something, then a whole lot of nothing. As it turns out, there is a place for families like us where you can do absolutely everything, or absolutely nothing, at exactly the same time. Sugar Beach, St. Lucia, seemed to find that fantastic balance of being a family-friendly resort while not feeling like it was designed for kids.

Between the Pitons at Sugar Beach in St. Lucia

The Pitons, a duo of volcanic spires, are St. Lucia’s main event. I’d happily debate anyone who says otherwise. It’s the unique selling point of Viceroy’s Sugar Beach and St. Lucia, as far as I am concerned. Sitting at 2,618ft and 2,438ft, respectively, both Gros and Petit Pitons are the natural defining features of this lush paradise.

St. Lucia’s Sugar Beach won the Caribbean lottery on location, being one of only two resorts that rest between them and the only one that is beachfront. They have been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and at any given time of day, one piton is lit to perfection, while the other lies in dramatic shadow. Both are awe-inspiring and magnificent around the clock. They are so highly regarded that the local beer is named ‘Piton’ in their honor.

Sugar Beach’s villas and cottages

Contrary to our usual travel mantra of never repeating a trip, this was our second time to St. Lucia and Sugar Beach. In 2014, we opted for a white clapboard colonial cottage neatly camouflaged in the hills overlooking the sea.

With its private plunge pool, Rainforest Spa, and on-demand golf cart access, this Viceroy resort was the kind of hideaway we sought. Cascading flora and fauna nearly swallowed the entrance, and it boasted majestic views of the Pitons—nature enveloped us from all angles.

This time, we had a few more people in tow and opted for a beachfront villa. In contrast to the intimate cottage, it was wide-open and airy, had two pools and a hot tub, and sat directly on the beach.

The long, infinity pool paralleled the sea, hovering just high enough above it so it looked like we were swimming laps alongside the horizon. The villa’s expansive patio had front-row seats to sunsets, and during our five nights, each was more spectacular than the one before.

We found it so hard to tear ourselves away that on our last evening; we decided to have dinner on the patio and settle in for the night. The four poster beds had gauzy mosquito netting that gave the rooms a dreamy feeling. White-on-white, with dark wooden colonial touches, added to the breezy vibe of the villa.

Every window faced the ocean, where we watched the chartered catamarans and privately owned yachts slowly drift in and out of the harbor—an unvarnished portrait of the ever-changing seascape being painted before our eyes.

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Colonial Vibes at Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

Sugar Beach sits on a staggering 100 acres of rainforest on what was once a thriving sugar plantation dating back to the 18th century. Today, plantation architecture characterizes the villas from the inside out. Common areas are accented by potted plants that border the exterior and inner walkways. Overgrown and lush, tropical flowers appear around every corner.

The villa’s loungy outdoor seating surrounds the pool, and doors are wide open to the sea from the bedrooms and living spaces. The kitchen was stocked with wine, fruit, and bottled water. If something was needed, it was just a phone call to our villa butler to help.

Resort Life at Sugar Beach

Our villa was a short walk to the main part of the resort, which was a nice perk as the kids could easily come and go as they pleased. The Pitons that bookend the bay make it a finite wonderland for roaming kids. The main house has multiple restaurants, a kid’s club, a sushi bar, swinging daybeds, and touches of surprisingly interesting artwork.

Sugar Beach takes hotel artwork to another level, and I wondered who curated it. Notably, too, was that the artwork seemed to stand the test of time. It is not an easy feat in a world constantly reinventing itself.

Culinary delights at Sugar Beach

There are multiple restaurants and bars at Sugar Beach, each having its slice of Caribbean character. Restaurant Bayside is open-air and (as named) steps from the bay. Fresh tuna, Mahi Mahi, wood-fired pizzas, and multiple vegetarian options made everyone in our group happy.

We surprised ourselves with more than one dinner at The Cane Bar. The Cane Bar is nearly hidden behind an imposing black door off the art gallery. Asian in inspiration, with the exciting addition of being known for its rum drinks.

It was a much-needed change up from the Caribbean-influenced menus. Fresh tuna, sea bream, and sea bass, all with pretty presentations, had us coming back. The decor is classic in black and white, yet somehow made warmer by the avant-garde sculpture and unusual multi-media pieces.

While my only wish is that it also had outdoor seating, it was a hit with our entire group. As a bonus, a billiards room is tucked in the back—a place to relax with a cocktail post-dinner and hide from our kids.

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Sugar Beach’s atypical breakfast buffet

Breakfast is served on another veranda, above a sweeping flight of stairs and past a large, beautiful pond. I’m not much for breakfast, but the Sugar Beach interpretation makes anyone rethink the run-of-the-mill buffet. My kids are still talking about it as a highlight months later. Fresh yogurts, grains, fruits, cereals. Various juices, like watermelon, guava, and papaya, sat chilling in glass pitchers.

There are at least five different types of freshly baked bread. The T80 sourdough became an immediate obsession among us. We may or may not have ‘borrowed’ a few loaves the morning we left the resort for our sailing trip. Made-to-order smoothies and enough cow’s milk alternatives to make any lactose-free guest swoon. Breakfast buffet, perfected.

The Ultimate Hike at Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

An experiment in forgetting about pain, climbing Gros Piton was far more challenging than I remembered from 2014. Perhaps being older, less fit, and having a moody teenager in tow added to the drama.

We started at sea level, which added about 30 minutes to the climb. Big mistake. We were in full sweat when we reached the village entrance. Annoying perky hikers were beginning their ascent.

Our guides kept to our pace, which was a challenge as our group was scattered all over the mountain. I stayed far enough ahead of my daughter so that I couldn’t hear her complaints. And behind my husband, son, and friend, who high-tailed it to the summit at breakneck speed.

There are two summit viewpoints, and after 1 1/2 hours or so, we reached the first. If I had to do it again, I’d skip the first summit and go directly to the next one. It was far prettier and made the blood, sweat, and tears more worthwhile. I will even go as far as to say that the mid-mountain summit is just as breathtaking. It stares directly toward Petit Piton (which, confusingly, is more challenging to climb than Gros Piton).

My quads were on fire for the remainder of the day (and the next). I counted it as my ‘something’ for the trip. Then, I spent the next four days congratulating myself for having earned four days of ‘nothing.’ My daughter still complains about the hike regularly.

Click here for details: A Guided Gros Piton hike with the best views of St Lucia!

Wander or Lounge? Both, naturally.

There’s no end to activities available at a family-friendly spot like Sugar Beach. Among them are waterskiing, scuba, snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, tennis, the Rainforest Spa, and tubing. My favorite? On the beach, under a shaggy, golden, thatched umbrella with an order of shrimp tacos. From there, I could watch the kids waterski or jump from the circular water loungers that dotted the swimming area.

For all the activities on hand, though, it never felt like an over-the-top, Disney-fied experience. At times, it had a homespun quality—kids left to play a game of pick-up soccer or to run with wild abandon on the beach.

The Rainforest Spa at Viceroy’s Sugar Beach

Even in a setting as relaxed as St. Lucia, there are always ways to get a little more relaxed. The Rainforest Spa at Sugar Beach is in a class of its own. A long, bamboo-lined, serpentine corridor dotted with rattan-covered lanterns leads to the spa reception—allowing just the right amount of romantic light through its slats.

The massage huts are scattered around, hovering in the trees, with sunlight filtering softly between the leaves. I felt like I had happened upon a primitive island—an ethereal start to an hour of relaxation.

St. Lucia, unfiltered

In an overly filtered world (and I love my filters as much as the next Instagrammer), I will say that I draw the line at sunsets. If I can’t capture the sunset without using one, then it just isn’t worth capturing.

Luckily, St. Lucian sunsets required no filters. The nightly drama, the changing kaleidoscope of colors, was one of the few things everyone in my family could sit still for.

Often, the simplest things bring the most happiness. Even if stripped of boats, gear, toys, and massage tables, Sugar Beach St. Lucia would still overdeliver. What lies between the pitons is a timeless natural wonder, enhanced by the warm-hearted staff that made us feel wholly welcome.

On our final night, a fierce game of beach cricket ensued. It was one of my favorite lasting memories of the trip. To paraphrase Winston Churchill, “All the great things are simple.” I couldn’t agree more.

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December 1, 2023
The end of the road in José Ignacio, Uruguay
Travel to Uruguay’s famous small town /

Depending on when you travel to Uruguay’s José Ignacio, you could either find a sleepy fishing village or a crowded jet setter’s playground. Chances are, you will love José Ignacio either way, as there is just so much to fall in love with. Well off the beaten path and fantastically difficult to get to, José Ignacio combines some of our favorite things in one place: untouched beaches, casual but fabulous food, and a chill vibe. Lunch at the rustic beach shack Parador La Huella, a Jose Ignacio see-and-be-seen scene, starts at 2pm and runs into dinner.

Travel to Uruguay For José Ignacio’s Under the Radar glam

Dirt roads with hand-painted signs add to the casual chic-ness of José Ignacio. But don’t be fooled, it is incredibly under-the-radar glam. Tiny pop-up boutiques along the beach roads are charming and then juxtaposed with a bright red Ferrari, which you soon realize isn’t unusual in José Ignacio. Imagine the Hamptons fifty years ago, as that starts to give you an idea of what to expect from this tiny strip of land, sandwiched between two beaches, a little over an hour from Montevideo.

As we decided to travel to Uruguay in the off-season, there were fewer Ferraris and more bicycles, and we were able to get around easily enough. Our resort, Bahia Vik, had bikes on hand for all of us, but we could have just as happily walked into town. The long vast beach line was so untouched and relatively tourist-free in March, perfect for kite flying as we soon discovered. There are so few people and so much to explore along the craggy coast.

At one point, my husband started to look for music to accompany his beach yoga session and quickly realized that he was already listening to the perfect playlist, the beach sounds were soft and soothing. No Spotify is necessary.

Travel to Uruguay For José Ignacio’s Estancia Vik

My daughter and I took advantage of Bahia Vik’s sister property, Estancia Vik, which is ten minutes away, for a half-day horseback ride. Horses are generally not my thing, but the riding was gentle, and the scenery majestic. Trotting along the expanse of rolling hills of the estancia for a few hours was incredibly peaceful and serene. It is surprising to see the landscape change from sand, dunes, and rock to pure forest in the span of a few miles.

We spent six nights in this little corner of Uruguay and could have stayed longer. It was a lifestyle I could see myself adopting. I imagine the high season is as crazy as the low season is sleepy. About a mile down the beach from us was the third Vik property, Playa Vik, which was severe and angular, and thoroughly modern in design.

The pool, with its dark blue water and underlighting of stars, jutted out towards the sea like a knife. I have never seen another pool like it. We ordered the house wine and sat on the pool’s edge for sunset more than once. Then, we retreated to the nearby firepit to get warm as the sun disappeared.

Travel to Uruguay For A touch of France in José Ignacio

One restaurant that kept drawing us back (until the waiter knew not only our wine choice but our kids’ names) was Almacen El Palmar. The menu is French, surprisingly. Part bakery, part market, part outdoor garden, it is intriguing mostly because of how unassuming it looks.

A hand-painted group of signs greets you on the path, pointing you toward Peru, Spain, and Japan. The France sign points you to the front door. It looks so low-key you might not expect anything from the food. We loved the low-buzzy atmosphere (and the food!) so much that we went back three times. An unusual move for a family that prides itself on never doing the same thing twice.

While there was much to do in and around José Ignacio, such as horseback riding, olive oil tastings, and touring nearby Punta del Este, we realized the most beautiful thing about José Ignacio was just settling into it and letting go.

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Travel to Uruguay For A Taste Of Tannat

Tannat is the bold, savory, spicy red grape that has put Uruguayan wines on the map. Bodega Garzón is a perfectly modern, slick, 85-million-dollar property from which to taste it. Uruguay has much to offer oenophiles the world over. Lovingly called the Tuscany of Uruguay, wine lovers travel to Uruguay to experience the unique wines and admire the rolling hills and hectares of vines.

Travel to Uruguay

Travel to Uruguay for the wine, the beaches, the beach shacks, and the remote hotels. Stay for the vibe and the scenery. José Ignacio’s under-the-radar style is a breath of fresh air—miles from the expected. Time to get there before the secrets of José Ignacio are secrets no longer.

Check availability at Bahia Vik here!

Five reasons to get lost in José Ignacio, Uruguay:
- The starry-bottomed architectural and gravitational wonder of a pool at Playa Vik.
- Trying the Tannat, Uruguay’s star red grape.
- Sinking into a three-hour lunch at Parador La Huella…barefoot.
- The nightly fire pits at Bahia Vik and Play Vik will motivate you not only to have one more drink but to maybe engage in conversations with strangers.
- Opening the doors to Playa Vik around sunset, and being temporarily blinded by rays as you head out towards the pool. Remember that scene in Indiana Jones when the sun finally hits the staff in the right place to reveal the location of the ark? That kind of blinding light.
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March 1, 2023
Morgan’s Rock—an Ecolodge Hotel on the edge of the jungle

An ecolodge hotel in a sub-tropical Nicaraguan jungle isn’t for everyone. When I booked it, I wasn’t even sure it was for me. In my mind, ‘sub-tropical’ translated to ‘blindingly hot with no A/C.’ ‘Ecolodge’ meant remote and natural, which we all know is code for ‘no electricity and buggy.’ Ecolodge, I noted, was just one syllable shy of Econolodge.

At that time, the holidays were closing in fast. Halloween decorations dangled menacingly in Safeway. Toddlers wearing matching turkey PJs populated my Instagram feed. Christmas muzak filled the halls at Bloomingdale’s—daily reminders of upcoming chaos.

In other words, September.

I wondered how far away we could get, physically and mentally, once the last Christmas gift was unwrapped. An eco-lodge hotel sounded promising-ish.

Morgan’s Rock, here we come

An ecolodge in Nicaragua. A place where I can empty my accumulated holiday anxieties onto the beach and get reacquainted with an abstract concept called simplicity. A place where I can regain my far-sighted vision.

I’d like to sit still and watch cloud formations form. Or, spend an hour watching the sun dip below the ocean’s horizon and change the world into a kaleidoscope of colors. Appreciating simple things like these take time and age. At an eco-lodge in Nicaragua, I think, I’ll have both.

Admittedly, I don’t have a clue what an ecolodge hotel is really about. Only what I imagine it’s about. I do little to no research on our destination before switching my iPhone to airplane mode, adopting a fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants mindset to kick off the New Year.

And fly we did. Two flights and one shockingly small ‘charter’ plane ride over an active volcano later, we touch down on Nicaragua’s Emerald Coast—a grass-covered field surrounded by a forest. Several dozen howler monkeys greet us upon arrival. Yikes.

What is an ecolodge hotel, exactly?

Calling oneself an ecolodge these days is as easy as calling that 95lb Labradoodle in seat 32C a service pet. There are stark differences between a lodge being ‘green’ versus ‘eco.’ Ecolodges focus on minimizing the effects of tourism and the physical structure of lodging on the environment.

Ecolodges contribute to local communities, offer educational opportunities to guests, help preserve ecosystems, and promote conservation efforts. True eco-lodges are situated deep within pristine, natural environments and have minimal impact on the landscape.

In contrast, green lodges or hotels are usually found in more urban areas. Improvements and sustainability practices are added to an existing structure to become more eco-friendly. While green is good, eco is better—at least from an environmental POV.

Morgan’s Rock resides on a small, sheltered, mile-long crescent bay on the edge of a jungle. Its 15 bungalows and three villas are nestled near the beach on its 4,000 acres. Each villa or bungalow is intentionally positioned where the fewest amount of trees are removed to build them. That’s not an easy feat in a world where guests expect unobstructed 360-degree ocean views to accompany their freshly squeezed orange juice and avo toast.

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What’s the history of Morgan’s Rock?

Morgan’s Rock was built in 2004 by the Ponçon family. Agronomist Clément-Marie Ponçon was sent to Nicaragua in 1978 on assignment by the French government to advise on developing agriculture and agroforestry.

Clément stayed on in Nicaragua, eventually starting, among other endeavors, a coffee processing plant that encompasses nearly 40% of Nicaragua’s production. In 2004, he and his wife opened a five-star eco-lodge in Nicaragua, the first of its kind on 350 acres of tropical beachfront—Morgan’s Rock.

Aside from becoming an ecolodge long before an ecolodge was a thing, Morgan’s Rock is a working farm with an estuary and organic gardens. A visit to Morgan’s Rock allows for experiences not found at typical hotels. Like the opportunity to milk cows, harvest shrimp, take a guided jungle walk at night, or go on a sloth-spotting mission in the morning.

What is the property layout?

Steep, winding, hand-crafted wooden staircases take us through the jungle’s canopy. My calves complain as I make them climb what feels like the height of the Washington Monument multiple times a day. But along the way, the scenery masks the pain, from the micro to the macro. Vines strangle ancient ficus trees. Little lizards scurry between the rocks, and howler monkeys unleash their monstrous howls.

The jungle is overgrown, hilly, and filled with animals we can hear but rarely see. We cross a 100-ft suspension bridge with views to the Pacific en route to our bungalow. The wobbly bridge makes Morgan’s Rock feel like a Hollywood movie set. The theme song to Raiders of The Lost Ark is on a constant loop in my head because my husband insists on playing it every time we cross it—more than once, I consider throwing him off.

Morgan’s Rock has a large platform yoga deck with complimentary classes. The dining area is open-plan. It overlooks a small pool that overlooks the ever-empty beach that overlooks the sea. A separate private thatched dining loft is available for larger groups, as well as a full spa.

Permanent private beach huts with braided hammocks are dotted along the beach—far enough ashore so as not to be whisked away by high tide. A small food and drink hut is nearby, so we are never more than 20 feet from a Bloody Mary or a shrimp taco.

What’s an Ecolodge hotel bungalow like?

Bungalow #3 is an aerie—set high above the beach and made with local materials by local craftsmen—another important component of ecolodge accommodations. The walls facing the sea aren’t walls at all. They are floor-to-ceiling screens that offer the money shot of sinking sunsets and rising tides.

The bed placement is at the room’s highest point and maximizes the panoramic view. I don’t even have to leave it to be fully immersed in nature. Trilling, whistling, squawking, and chirping from the birds. Howling, from the monkeys.

Eco-lodge hotels like Morgan’s Rock use energy-efficient lighting and/or very little lighting overall. Solar panels and low-impact ‘natural’ A/C units allow us to sleep comfortably each night. Hallelujah! The interiors of the treehouses are designed to mimic the jungle with dark wooden tree-like posts and thatched pitched roofs.

The sound of the ocean lulls me to sleep at any given time of day, which makes the actual getting out of bed an issue. Thankfully, there is a pot of strong Nicaraguan coffee within arm’s reach. Eventually, I head to our deck to give the swinging day bed some attention before breakfast.

What’s the wildlife situation?

A big draw to staying at an ecolodge that preserves its natural surroundings in such a delicate way is the presence of animal life. More than once I equate our time in Nicaragua to a safari. From the simple indoor/outdoor treehouse accommodations to the immersion in wildlife.

On our first morning, a troop of howler monkeys passes through the area before 6am. The sun is not up yet, but everything else in the jungle most definitely is. I’m already acquainted with the howlers when they so warmly greeted us at the airstrip, or else I wouldn’t have left the bed.

Among the various noises howler monkeys make, none is more unique than the one that unfurls like a monster waking from the dead. Think White Walkers from Game of Thrones. Seriously, google ‘howler monkey sounds.’ I’ll wait. Then imagine it times ten. You wouldn’t leave the bed either.

There are many interesting species of wildlife in this part of Nicaragua. A list of what we see and don’t see follows. Fun fact: the scorpions and tarantulas here aren’t deadly. As if that’s comforting…

Howler Monkey: Saw some, heard dozens.

Capuchin Monkey: None.

Spider Monkey: One.

Scorpions: None.

Tarantula: One.

Snake: One.

Lizards: Many.

Crabs: It’s the beach, duh.

Sea Turtles: None. Wrong season.

Sloths: Sadly, none.

Jaguar: None.

Birds: White-Throated Magpie Jay, Rufous Tailed Hummingbirds, Crested Caracaras, among others. Still with me? No more birds, I promise.

Check Availability for Morgan’s Rock here

What do you do at an Ecolodge hotel?

The beauty of an ecolodge visit goes well beyond a stunning natural setting. In the case of Morgan’s Rock, we decide to find a balance between eco-tourism activities and more relaxing ones. The Emerald Coast is well known for surfing, and my husband and son surf most mornings at a nearby beach called Maderas.

Those mornings, I do pilates on our deck after I’ve spent a sufficient amount of time lounging in the regular bed and swinging on the daybed. The view from our room is better than any other spot on the property, and has coffee. I have no motivation to leave it.

Daniel and I mountain bike. I take a guided bird-watching walk (which is more of a bird-listening walk.) Daniel and Chase boogie-board. I read in the hammock. We SUP and kayak in the estuary. Chase convinces me there are crocs below the water’s surface, which ruins my experience. It enhances his. No one rides horses.

What’s the best thing about Morgan’s Rock?

The sunsets are hands down the prettiest and most dramatic I’ve ever seen. After sunset viewing, my second favorite activity is the farm visit. It has the potential to be cheesy. It isn’t. A group of us pile into a van and drive ten minutes to the working farm on the property. As we walk towards the cows, I notice a woman making corn tortillas and a table set for ten. I’m hungry—and happy.

The mama cow won’t stand up for us to milk her, so they bring her calf to nurse. That clever trick gets her moving. After milking the cow, a first for me, we gather eggs. We hold cute baby chicks in our hands, and I learn the hard way that they risk being pecked to death if accidentally dropped. While no chicks die that day, it’s chicken-coop chaos for a very long minute.

Soon after the chick incident, we make tortillas. Using the milk we squeezed and the eggs we collected, we are treated to a traditional Nicaraguan breakfast, including Gallo Pinto. Nicknamed Spotted Rooster due to its colors, Gallo Pinto is a flavorful mix of beans, rice, peppers, cilantro, and onions. Fresh coffee, passionfruit juice, and convivial chit-chat complete the morning. I’m ready for my book and a hammock.

What’s the food and service like at Morgan’s Rock?

The food at Morgan’s Rock is simple and basic, as one would expect from a remote ecolodge that sources most of its ingredients. I remind myself that I’m craving simplicity—it’s the reason I’m here. The best dishes are seafood-based. My lobster dinner has a whopping four lobster tails, grilled beautifully with just the right amount of butter. The thatched, open-air dining space is breezy and ambient with clinking glasses that amplify the festive mood.

Beach lunches are tacos, ceviche, salads, and grilled skewers. Early on, I discover from another guest that we could order off-menu. Clearly, Americans make up most of the clientele here. I google traditional Nicaraguan dishes like Indio Viejo and ask if they can accommodate. Of course, they can. Morgan’s Rock could certainly place more faith in American tastebuds and offer more traditional Nicaraguan options. Those dishes were the best.

The service is attentive, genuine, warm, and responsive. With so many steps at the property, it is truly amazing that our requests are handled so promptly. The staff is in excellent physical shape for obvious reasons.

That said, there are many times when things get lost in translation. These times mainly have to do with food. Ordering a sirloin but getting a rib-eye. Asking for garlic shrimp and receiving lobster. If you are a natural-born complainer, this isn’t the place for you. If you can roll with misunderstandings from a well-meaning and always-smiling staff, then you are sure to love your visit.

HNY from an Ecolodge in the jungle

A small sailboat crosses the bay on the distant horizon. Its paperwhite sail pierces the blue sky. My far-sighted vision is restored. I listen to the chorus of the jungle and the waves crashing against the desolate white sand beach in front of me. It’s New Year’s Day. I’m content.

There’s no pillow menu at Morgan’s Rock. There’s no reserve wine list and no signature scent. There are no TVs or phones. There are thousands of steps, harmless critters, and not much to do after dark. Rustic luxury here really means rustic—and not in the Blackberry Mountain way. This is a true ecolodge hotel—one of the first of its kind.

There are spectacular, unfiltered, and unobstructed sunsets. And wildlife sounds unlike any I hear at home. There is excellent coffee. Options for adrenaline junkies to move and options for the sedentary to stay still. There’s a farm with cows, baby chicks, and fancy roosters.

An ecolodge in a sub-tropical Nicaraguan jungle isn’t for everyone. How many readers did I lose at ‘critters?’ Adventure is all the rage. So are experiences. And eco-lodges. I couldn’t have imagined a better way to start the year. With a clear head, a beach view, and a heavy dose of simplicity.

Happy New Year.

Check availability at Morgan’s Rock here

January 7, 2023
5 Top 5 Travel Wish Lists: Where To Go Right Now

I’m at Black Coffee, sitting on a cushy, green leather banquette—my usual spot. On my right are two well-heeled Washingtonians talking about Koks, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in, wait for it—the Faroe Islands. I can’t contain my excitement! I know Koks–it’s on my travel wish list! How in the world do they know about Koks? I’m dying to ask. Then reconsider.

That would be weird.

My excitement manifests physically. It’s like I’ve had six espresso shots in as many minutes. I’m quite literally bouncing off the banquette. The women leave rather suddenly. I wonder if my bouncing has something to do with it.

What’s the point?

Let me back up a few hours—to 8am in my kitchen. I settle into a swivel chair with an oat milk cappuccino. I swirl, twirl, and sip while playing Worlde, Quordle, and Spelling Bee. This perky combination of caffeine and wordplay ignites my brain on even the dreariest DC mornings.

That the outcome of these games determines my mood is an overstatement. But I’d be lying if I said the days I get Wordle-in-two doesn’t feel good. Combine that with ‘genius’ status on Spelling Bee and a winning Quordle, and it’s the trifecta of morning happiness. Sometimes I go right back to bed, exhausted from having overachieved so early in the day.

I’ve devoted a paragraph to my New York Times-centric morning routine for good reason. ‘Geez, get to the point already!’, you’re thinking. The point is, while most mornings are uneventful and dominated by a trio of silly brainteasers, some days I overhear a pair of chatty women in a coffee shop, and my brain kicks into overdrive.

Travel talk gives me a jolt as powerful as those six shots of espresso. It fuels me in a way that can only be described in multiple coffee-related metaphors. As illustrated by my encounter at Black Coffee, being a participant in the conversation is irrelevant.

Travel Wish Lists

My travel wish list has been curated from multiple trustworthy sources. Sources like Condé Nast Traveler’s ‘Gold List’, Travel+Leisure’s ‘It List’, Forbes Travel Guide’s Star Award Winners, and San Pellegrino’s ‘World’s Best List’. And increasingly more often from the most-addictive travel resource ever—Instagram. My wish list is always at hand, by which I mean is on my phone, which is always in my hand.

‘But, where to begin?’ My travel wish list is a lengthy, unorganized account of hotels, lodges, countries, cities, ranches, and restaurants. An inventory of adventures, experiences, and expeditions. Describing them all would far exceed my typical 2500-word count.

I pause to think. (This pause lasts a week). My brain, only moments ago on a Quorldle high, is now creatively stuck. I’m swimming in mental cement.

Aha! I’ll list my top five travel wish lists. Not only will it be entertaining to write, but it will also force me to organize this ongoing, unsystematic list that has been vexing me for years.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Wish List v. Lust List

Years ago, I created an entry in my ‘Notes’ app called, ‘Travel Lust’. For the sake of SEO, I’m renaming it Travel Wish List. If you think the words Travel Wish List are being overused already, it’s not by accident. Anyone who’s had experience with Search Engine Optimization will understand why. And, I certainly don’t want this post to rank for ‘lust’. That’s someone else’s blog, I mean, website.

My top five travel wish lists in five categories follow. Hotels and Resorts, Lodges and Retreats, Experiences, Countries, and Culinary Adventures. One winner and four other winners per category. There are no losers, it’s a wish list remember.

This is going to be fun, and possibly very expensive—for all of us.

Want all 5 wish lists in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

PC: Hotel Esencia

My Travel Wish List: 5 / Hotels and Resorts

Wish List Winner: Hotel Esencia, Xpu-Ha, Mexico

Last month, a friend sent me an article about Hotel Esencia, in Mexico. After reading it, I sent it to my husband Daniel, explaining my deep need to go there. He now deeply dislikes her.

This happens often, much to my husband’s chagrin. Many of these seemingly harmless emails turn into future three-night, non-refundable deposits. My list is longer than I have time or money to accomplish. But please, keep sending. Daniel will need to postpone retirement for a few more years. I’m sure he’s ok with that.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Esencia sky-rocketed to the top of my travel wish list. Conceptualized by a Hollywood producer and entrepreneur, the hotel’s 45 rooms and suites, and three uber-sophisticated villas were once the private hideaway of Italian duchess, Rosa de Ferrari. Lucky duchess.

Quiet, unassuming, and refined luxury abounds. Located between Tulum and Cancún, Esencia’s home-away-from-home vibe is intentional (that is, if your home is beachside, flanked by jungles, and includes sea turtle nesting grounds).

Morning treats are delivered to rooms through secret cubby holes. That’s pretty irresistible. I imagine enjoying warm brioches and flaky croissants while lounging in my pjs. The bold, bright tropical decor adds to the hotel’s glamour. It reminds me of Mondrian, the Dutch painter who rejected perceived reality and stripped form down to its most basic elements. Esencia’s palette is a refreshing change from most Mexican resorts which rely heavily on traditional colors and rustic furnishings.

The yoga loft is insta-perfect, with ecru, crocheted hammocks hanging below an open-air wooden platform. My savasana would surely last hours, which would put me at risk of missing afternoon cocktails. I’d best leave the chaturangas to Daniel.

PC: Hotel Esencia

USP (Unique Selling Point):

Esencia’s two-story, Rooftop Wellness Suite is the ultimate in modern Mayan jungle luxury. With a full-sized pool, multiple terraces, and a private fitness studio (including a Peloton bike and The Mirror), I see no compelling reason to leave it. As an aside, I see no compelling reason for a private fitness studio, either. I’m on holiday. I’ll punish myself with The Mirror when I get home, thank you.

This premiere suite acts as a ‘hotel within a hotel’ at this sweeping 50-acre estate. So, if you’d like to go on a resort holiday without having to see another soul, Hotel Esencia is the place for you. It’s most definitely the place for me.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Note: August 26, 2022. As I place the finishing touches on this post, Forbes Travel Guide has just announced today that Hotel Esencia earned its coveted five-star award for 2022. Well deserved Esencia, but now I’ll never be able to get a reservation. (See how I’m able to be both topical and tropical at the same time here?)

Four other winners:

Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur, California

Hacienda AltaGracia, Costa Rica

San Domenico Palace, Taormina, Italy

One&Only Moonlight Basin, Montana (Opening 2024)

Why did these make the list?

Each of these hotels and brands is not only top of its class in terms of service and accommodations but also takes style and artistry to innovative levels.

Swoon over the organic architecture and natural coastal beauty at Post Ranch Inn. Spot the elusive Quetzal in Costa Rica at Hacienda AltaGracia. Prepare to get lost in the Montana wilderness, at One&Only’s first US-based resort. The Four Seasons’ San Domenico Palace in Italy is a restored 14th-century convent with views of Mount Etna. Enough said.

Click the links at your own risk. Yes, they are expensive. Whoever said, ‘you can’t take it with you,’ is my soul mate.

PC: Islas Secas

My Travel Wish List: 4 / Lodges and Retreats

Wish List Winner: Islas Secas, Panama

I’m reluctant to write about Islas Secas. I don’t want you to know about it. Yes, that’s how selfish I am. That I’d rather not write about a hot, new destination for fear that you get there before I do is indefensible.

I’d like to go to Panama before every else has it on their radar. Ten years ago we told friends we were headed to Costa Rica. We may as well have said we were taking the kids to North Korea on a beach holiday. Look at Costa Rica now—the epicenter of spring break family travel.

As is evident by its name, Islas Secas is an island. An archipelago, to be more clear, comprised of 14 volcanic islands off the Pacific coast of the country. With iconographic names like Isla Barracuda, Isla Iguana, and Isla Coco, I imagine days snorkeling beside shiny, snake-like fish, photographing colorful reptiles, and drinking from oversized coconuts. Over-caffeinated yet again, my imagination runs wild.

Panamanian design is everywhere; light, breezy tactile fabrics, plantation shutters, and thatched rooftops. The four-bedroom Casita Grande looks especially captivating. I daydream about a milestone birthday there. It could be mine, a friend’s, or a neighbor’s. I’m not going to be picky.

PC: Islas Secas

USP:

The website affirms Islas Secas’ devotion to sustainable and nature-driven tourism. It tempts me with stats like 750 species of fish, 80 species of birds, and humpback whale-watching.

When I read the website, I almost can’t bear it. I bounce again, the universal sign for overexcitement.

I think you should go. And I think you should take me with you.

Four other winners:

Taylor River Lodge, Colorado

Bishop’s Lodge, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Kachi Lodge, Bolivia

Mashpi Lodge, Ecuador

Why did these make the list?

It’s a secret to no one who keeps up with luxury and adventure retreats that these four make the list. Known for tailor-made, one-of-a-kind experiences, Eleven Experience owns 13 remote properties around the world. Its Colorado-based Taylor River Lodge was once a local fishing and tackle shop before it became an off-the-grid, eight-cabin river retreat.

Auberge-owned Bishop’s Lodge in Santa Fe embraces the rich mountain colors of New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo range. Each room, with woven Navajo rugs and textiles, is a sanctuary unto its own.

Kachi or Mashpi? Both/and, please. This duo of South American lodges is equally breathtaking. Mashpi Lodge is set deep in the Chocó-Andean Cloud Forest. No, I didn’t make that up. Conversely, Kachi Lodge sits at the foot of the Tunupa Volcano, and atop Bolivia’s famed Uyuni Salt Flats. Cloud Forest or Salt Flat? How to choose? I’ll repeat. Both/and.

Want all 5 winners in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

My Travel Wish List: 3 / Travel Experiences

Wish List Winner: Explore the Galápagos Islands via Pikaia Lodge

I must have a thing for archipelagos because here I am adding yet another to my list. Archipelagos are obviously all the rage.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

One thousand kilometers off of the Ecuadorian coast lies 19 islands of marine wonders—the Galápagos Islands. They are often referred to as a ‘unique living museum of evolution’. If that isn’t a tantalizing travel soundbite, I don’t know what is.

That the Galápagos Islands’ wildlife lacks natural predators is pretty well-known. This is partly due to the islands’ volcanic origin and extreme remoteness. I’d love to swim with sea lions, dolphins, and giant tortoises. I want to admire exotic birds and uncover species that don’t exist anywhere else in the world. The animals are approachable and tame (and I hear they love the camera). Sign me up.

USP:

Pikaia Lodge’s prime access to this extraordinary part of the world is why it pairs so organically with a Galápagos Island adventure. Pikaia Lodge is a luxury eco-adventure property with cutting-edge architecture and a strong environmentally conscious mindset. Its 14 rooms sit 450 meters above sea level on the edge of an extinct volcano. I’ve always wanted to stay on the edge of an extinct volcano, (rather than an active one), naturally.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

Pikaia Lodge is entirely carbon-neutral and is made up of stone, lava, glass, and steel. This striking architectural combination doesn’t attempt to steal the limelight from the landscape. It looms high over Santa Cruz Island as if it too is leisurely observing the wonders of the Galápagos.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

Four other winners:

Hike Acadia National Park, Maine

Vineyard stay in Bordeaux

Photography Safari in Namibia

Polar Expedition to Antarctica

Why did these make the list?

Hiking at Acadia National Park complements my passion for photographing panoramic views. A vineyard stay in Bordeaux embraces my obsession with cabernets, berets, and soufflés. (I don’t actually like berets, but I’ll do anything for cadence). My love of wildlife would be taken to extremes in Antarctica and Africa.

Narrowing down my top five travel experiences is a challenge. Each time I think I have a final list, another idea emerges. It’s like whack-a-mole in my head. That these five experiences align with my favorite activities is no surprise. What is a surprise is how well these wish lists are acting as birthday, anniversary, and Christmas gift lists, too! I’m nothing if not efficient.

PC: Dylan Shaw, Unsplash

My Travel Wish List: 2 / Countries

Wish List Winner: The Faroe Islands

Do you know where the Faroe Islands are? Despite my current obsession with this self-governing nation, I didn’t know exactly where they were either. I’ve since learned this archipelago of 18 mountainous islands (yes, another archipelago!) is located halfway between Scotland and Iceland and is named after sheep. I love sheep! Now, I want to go there more than ever.

PC: Marc Zimmer, Unsplash

Turf-roofed houses are nurtured by the year-round rainy climate. Even your year-round rain isn’t enough to deter me, Faroe Islands. And I hate getting wet.

PC: Lynn Fae, Unsplash

The hamlets of the Faroe Islands are the stuff of fairy tales. Frodo would feel at home in the shire-like countryside. Lakes, lagoons, and lighthouses are all virtually untouched by tourism. At least for the moment. That I’d like to get there before everyone else reinforces just how selfish I am.

Four other winners:

Panama

Bolivia

Ecuador

Namibia

Why did these make the list?

If you’ve read this far, it’s clear why these countries round out this travel wish list. They each have resorts, hotels, retreats, or experiences I would love to visit or do one day. They are also countries not quite on the mainstream travel radar.

PC: Beinta á Torskilsheyggi

My Travel Wish List: 1 / Culinary Adventures

Wish List Winner: Koks, The Faroe Islands

What a coincidence! If you believe in coincidences, that is. The restaurant at the top of my culinary wish list is located at the top of my country wish list—the Faroe Islands. A visit there would be a travel wish list twofer. I wonder if I’ve lost Daniel by now?

Chef Poul Andrias Ziska is the culinary creator-in-chief behind Koks (which since my morning at Black Coffee, I learn has been temporarily relocated to Greenland). That’s ok, I’m in no rush. That he uses mainly Faroese ingredients in his Michelin-starred dishes compels me to open up another tab and find out exactly what those ingredients are.

PC: Claes Bech-Poulsen

Being a set of islands should be a significant clue. However, beyond fish and seafood, the Faroese diet consists of organic lamb, fermented meat, and root vegetables like kohlrabi, turnips, and rhubarb. I wonder if the two ladies at Black Coffee are aware of this?

Koks is known as the ‘world’s most remote foodie destination.’ Its imaginative dishes follow the seasons and its architecture follows the traditional Nordic style. I will follow Koks anywhere, even to Greenland, if I have to.

Left, PC: Claes Bech-Poulsen Right, PC: Beinta á Torskilsheyggi

Four other winners:

Single Thread, Healdsburg, California

The Three Chimneys, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Restaurant La Chassagnette, Provence, France

été, Tokyo

Why did these make the list?

Dine in the gardens of Arles-based, Michelin-starred La Chassagnette or at farm-inspired micro-seasonal Single Thread in Healdsburg, California. Their spectacular settings match their equally spectacular culinary offerings.

With no sign and one table, Restaurant été, run by female chef Natsuko Shoji, is one of the most coveted reservations in Tokyo. Her French-Japanese-inspired menu is considered flawless, as is her sense of style and design.

Finally, Three Chimneys marks yet another impossible-to-reach-but-worth-the-effort restaurant. It’s hidden on the dramatic shores of Loch Dunvegan on the Isle of Skye. The Nordic-Scottish epicurean experience can only be topped with a night’s stay at adjoining House-Over-By. Those Scots are nothing if not literal.

Want all 5 wish list winners in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

Aspiration v. inspiration

On the surface, these lists seem superficial. ‘I want to go here. Eat there. Do this.’ I dig deeper into the ‘why’ and notice it’s the experiences I crave. Would I like those experiences to be in or near lovely places, at nice hotels, and with extraordinary food? Why, yes I would

There are many ways to experience cultures, countries, and food. Less expensive ways and more authentic ways, no doubt. This is my wish list so I get to choose the way I want to explore the world. You get to choose yours.

My lists are both aspirational and inspirational. Reading about them makes me happy. Sharing them with you makes me happier (earlier selfishness aside). Going to them would make me ecstatic.

Go big or stay home

My daily life in Washington DC revolves around a one-mile radius. I go to Black Coffee for golden lattes, Millie’s for overpriced salads, CVS to channel inner patience, and Battery Kemble Park to walk my labs. I like my routine, it centers me.

Sometimes inspiration strikes, whether by eavesdropping at Safeway or reading the Sunday Style section of the New York Times. I write lists. Sometimes those lists lead to trips where I leave my DC bubble and discover a far-flung corner of the globe. Sometimes they gather dust up there on the cloud.

But, the days I get Wordle-in-two? Watch out world, anything can happen.

Click here. Be the first to know where I’m going next.

Author’s Note: I am grateful to the hotels, resorts, restaurants, and lodges who kindly gave me high-res photos for use in this post. I’m also using Unsplash for the first time, and praise the photographers who are giving away their gorgeous photos for free. Typically, I only feature my own photos. But alas, if I had my own pictures of these stunning places, they wouldn’t be on my wish list.

If you ever want to get in touch, ask a question, or discuss a way to partner, please email me at [email protected].

April 26, 2022
Searching for the peaceful life, at Amanzoe, Greece

Google Amanzoe. Go ahead, I’ll wait.

With 156,000 search results, Amanzoe is hardly a well-kept secret. What can I say or write that hasn’t already been said or written about this palatial property? How can I uncover beauty not instantly available by scrolling postage stamp-sized squares on the phone? Or, found in a quick Google search?

Let me give it a try. But perhaps first, a few things you will find in a quick Google search of Amanzoe, because essentials are still important, naturally.

Amanzoe, Greece: The Facts

Where is Amanzoe?

Amanzoe sits on the Peloponnese Peninsula, which is on the southern coast of the Greek mainland. It’s about a 2.5-hour drive from Athens and overlooks the Argolic Gulf and the Saronic Islands.

How do you get to Amanzoe?

There are three ways to get from Athens to Amanzoe: helicopter, Aman private car, and rental car. As you might imagine, this list is not only ordered from most to least expensive but from shortest to longest travel time.

How many rooms does Amanzoe have?

Amanzoe has 38 unique accommodations. A combination of one-bedroom pavilions, beach cabanas, and villas. The villas range in size from one bedroom to nine.

Nine-bedroom Villa 20 is the stuff of Aman legend. It has six swimming pools, multiple dining areas, four kitchens, and a Greek Taverna barbecue. Villa 20 also has a private spa, a private gym, sculpture gardens, and 360-degree panoramic sea views. Did I mention it is spread over a whopping six levels on four acres?

Oh, and a staff of 18.

Villa 20—an Aman within an Aman. How meta.

Amanzoe Facts aside

Six days isn’t enough time to become an expert on Amanzoe, or on anything, for that matter. Nonetheless, six days was enough time to learn a few noteworthy aspects of the property. As well as the people who keep it running seamlessly. Not to mention the Argolis peninsula, which is ever so gracefully situated between the Saronic and Argolic Gulfs.

Amanzoe, First impressions count

We arrived at Amanzoe at 4pm, after three flights, two layovers, and a scenic 30-minute helicopter ride. Any signs of fatigue evaporated the moment we walked through the monumental entrance. Greek in design, glossy, and white. The scent of jasmine filled the air. I turned my head left and noticed the tell-tale, star-shaped flowers, en masse.

Looking ahead, a wide, elongated reflecting pool drew my eye toward the centerpiece of Amanzoe. An enormous circular marble platform hovered above the Aegean Sea. When I use the term jaw-dropping, it is not metaphorically.

Olive trees with their chalky green leaves, and age-revealing gnarled trunks, dot the Amanzoe property. Some, are crooked and wrinkled (the elders), others skinny and lanky, (the teenagers), and all the life stages in between.

Click Here. Get my Wish List Destination Hot Sheet FREE.

Amanzoe, Sunset commentary

In May, the sun starts to set well after 8pm. That gave us plenty of time to settle into our villa and return to the platform for cocktails. Later, we would witness the nightly ritual of ‘sunset commentary’.

We overheard guests compare the sky to the one of the previous night—were the streaks more tangerine or pumpkin-colored? Those purples, would you say plum or eggplant?

I wondered if the staff ever tired of the setting sun, or the running commentary. I imagine they don’t since each night was similar in terms of sheer beauty but quite different in the details.

The shifting rays made the marble glow and forced deep shadows from the olive trees. Mother Nature must live here, I thought.

To add an unnecessary, yet ethereal touch of theater to the scene, a fire table was ignited each evening. A gesture of solidarity with the sun’s disappearance.

Amanzoe, Greece: Questions, Answered

Paul Linder is the master of ceremonies (aka General Manager) at Amanzoe, Greece. He floats breezily among the guests, speaking en français to the French, and en español to the Spanish. All the while looking like he stepped out of Italian Vogue. And ever-smiling—Paul is in his element.

“What don’t people know about Amanzoe?” I asked, “because it seems as if it’s all been said.” Paul paused. Then he told me that the area where Amanzoe resides, Porto Heli, is considered “the Hamptons of Greece”. That, I didn’t know.

Kings, former kings, celebrities, former celebrities, shipping, and business tycoons come here to not be seen. The entire peninsula has a distinguished air of privacy. Their mega-villas dot the landscape. And their bespoke super-yachts peek out from secluded coves and pop from the sapphire blue waters.

Paul went on to speak of the architectural elements that make up Amanzoe itself: stone, glass, marble, and wood. He spoke of the natural elements, the flora, and fauna, all native to Greece.

Each olive tree at Amanzoe had been artfully placed or replaced—some of which are up to 600 years old. Ed Tuttle, the creative genius behind Amanzoe, as well as over 30 other Aman properties, sadly died last year. But his work lives on, and what an awe-inspiring body of work it is.

If you build it

The palette of the Peloponnese Peninsula, and Amanzoe, is subtle shades of yellow, green, and purple. Wispy grasses, Mediterranean herbs, and slender emerald-colored cypress trees thrive. Bursts of fuchsia breakthrough in the form of a single flower. Or, a cluster of berries and a wave of bougainvillea. Lavender abounds.

Perhaps, the most interesting thing Paul remarked upon, was how the setting of Amanzoe was purposely built and designed. The grandiose main pavilion was created to represent the Acropolis. The villas below symbolize the city of Athens. How clever.

An intentional nod to ancient times. Amanzoe even replicated the famous theatre from nearby Epidaurus (in miniature, thankfully) on the property. Guests can reserve the amphitheater in advance, and dine privately among a hundred ambient lanterns. Mr. Tuttle, I stand in awe.

This intriguing mini-city design is certainly one way that Amanzoe stands out among its peers. Which prevents it from ever feeling crowded, even at capacity. If I had Villa 20, I would never leave it. In fact, I doubt I could even find my way out.

Amanzoe’s Villa 31

Villa 31 has the distinction of being the only one-bedroom villa at Amanzoe. There are many freestanding one-bedroom pavilions. However, Villa 31 is one-of-a-kind, perched on the far western tip of the property. It quietly overlooks the untamed landscape and the Aegean Sea.

Towards late afternoon, the mountains across the gulf start to lose detail and their sharp edges. The layers of blue melt into one another, creating a panoramic watercolor.

Mediterranean gardens surround the villa and the 25-meter infinity-edged pool. Bees feast on lavender. Amanzoe’s Villa 31 is made of stone and possesses a rustic, farmhouse feeling, unlike the other villas.

The interior is as serene and inviting as the exterior. Nearly every window and door open to the pool and sea.

A shaded terrace with cushy seating and a small reflecting pool form a separate structure from the villa. This is where our inventive chef, Stelios, created our in-villa meals.

Irina, our lovely dedicated host, helped organize everything from bicycles and golf carts to picnics, and afternoon cocktails. The staff is so warm, knowledgeable, and friendly. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t come home with a few new people to follow on Instagram.

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Plain Sky, at Amanzoe

The most unusual aspect of Villa 31 is its immersive art installation created by the acclaimed artist, James Turrell. The only one of Turrell’s permanent works found in the Mediterranean.

“Sky Plain” is a subterranean room accessed by a hidden staircase on the side of the villa. The perimeter of the 20 x 20-foot space is lined with built-in cushioned benches. The walls and floor are comprised of streaky, glossy black marble.

A square opening, in what looks like a paper-thin ceiling, appears cut with a razor. It established a one-dimensional color-blocking effect as we looked toward the sky. This flattened effect, we were soon to discover, was an essential component of the display.

In the span of about twenty minutes, colored lights in the room slowly changed, and so seemingly did the sky. It was an illusion. The sky was not gray, green, or dark blue.

In fact, it was sunset. (Or sunrise, which is the two times of day the exhibit is displayed.) The sky was pure cerulean blue. Believe me, we checked.

Only guests of Villa 31 have access to Mr. Turrell’s perception-defying installation, which made us feel like total Amanzoe VIPs.

Daytrippin’ from Amanzoe

One of the many things Aman does extraordinarily well is excursions. Amanzoe has more ways to explore the Peloponnese than we had time. We chose carefully, knowing how hard it would be to leave the villa.

At 9am, we boarded the Amanzoe One, a Wally powerboat, with a bottle of wine and a picnic lunch.

We sped past the islands of Spetses and Dokos on our way to Hydra. Hydra, we were told, is an island where time has stood still for over 200 years.

Hydra, Idra, Ydra

There are no motorized vehicles on Hydra (aside from the local ambulance). Horses, donkeys, and mules roam the streets as they had done in centuries past. They carry packaged goods, produce, and sometimes people, from the port into the town. Water taxis bob in the marina to take residents and tourists to the mainland.

Hydra isn’t only a picturesque town, with a central clock tower, and lemon and orange trees growing in abundance. It’s also an appealingly quiet one. The clip-clop of hooves was a welcome change from engines.

The slick stone steps led us high above the port, from where we could see daily life unfolding below. I got lost in a daydream of living on Hydra, with its simplicity, calm, and natural beauty.

Where wellness began

It can appear that ‘wellness’ is a new phenomenon, as it’s so trendy and newsworthy these days. The ancient town of Epidaurus, however, was at one time considered the healing and wellness center of the universe.

Sick people traveled by boat, and then walked for miles, to cure their ailments here as early as the 6th century B.C. As the fame of the region grew, so did its prosperity, which enabled an enormous stone amphitheater to be built.

When completed, it seated 14,000 people. To this day, while in partial ruins, even a lowered voice still carries to the uppermost rows. In fact, a yearly music festival returns to the stage each June. Mark your calendars.

Epidaurus also includes the ruins of a sanctuary, a hospital, temples, and a posh hotel. In 1988, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since Greece had just re-opened its doors to tourism, we were nearly alone at this ancient spiritual site.

Lunch Detour

We took an alternate route back to Amanzoe via the enchanting seaport town of Nafplio. Nafplio is a popular weekend destination for Athenians, the authenticity of the old town was palpable. There we shared a traditional Greek lobster and pasta lunch. To say we overindulged is an understatement.

Tourism is the primary source of revenue in Nafplio. Yet, it didn’t feel overly touristy. I noticed how everyone seemed to know one another along the waterfront promenade of local restaurants. After a few hours of wandering, we headed back to the resort. We were eager to sit poolside and dream about our next meal.

Amanzoe’s 24-hour menu

Excellent food and wine are to be expected at Amanzoe. That again is nothing Google can’t tell you. No guest will go hungry between the two open-air Greek/Mediterranean restaurants, and Nama, the Japanese-inspired restaurant off the main pool.

Thankfully, we discovered the 24-hour menu on our first day. No, not the room service menu, but a list of special dishes that need extra preparation time. The choices were abundant, and I wished I had another week to try them all.

We opted for Lamb ‘Kleftiko’ the following evening. It was presented in a traditional rustic dutch oven overflowing with aromatic scents. Like, rosemary, cinnamon, honey, and lemon. The 12-hour slow-baked lamb fell off the bone and soaked up the juices below. Potatoes and cubes of melting ‘Kefalotyri’ cheese completed the dish. It was divine.

Our personable waiter, Adam, revealed the origin of ‘Kleftiko’, which means ‘stolen’. During the Greek revolution, the guerrillas, called Klephts, survived by stealing lamb or goats from the hillside. Who needs Google when you have Adam?

Amanzoe’s Sustainability Sidebar

The Aman brand has a strong commitment to sustainability, environmental protection, and local culture. As an example, the food at the resort was both seasonal, as well as ethically-sourced.

Wine, From the Fire

The ‘Greek Hellfires’ ravaged 670,000 acres of land in 2007. Thousands of fires scorched the hillsides, and many vineyards didn’t survive, including the Brintziki Vineyard outside of Olympia. However, almost miraculously, their grapes did. From those unscathed grapes, left to struggle in extreme conditions, came wine. They named it ‘Dia Pyros’—‘from the fire’.

There are only 2300 bottles of this celebrated wine, each bottle numbered and signed by the vintner and the oenologist. Our waiter offered us a glimpse of this rare vintage, paired with the story of its endurance.

Peaceful Life found, at Amanzoe

What’s left to know? What parting words can complete our extraordinary experience? Perhaps this—in Sanskrit, ‘Amanzoe’ means ‘peaceful life”, a fitting name if there ever was one. But, maybe you already knew that.

Go ahead, Google it. I’ll wait.

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May 30, 2021

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