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Up for a Challenge? Why the Best Family Resort In Punta Mita is The Four Seasons.

Read on to discover the best family resort in Punta Mita— The Four Seasons. Punta Mita is the sun-soaked, palm tree-dotted peninsula in Mexico. And it’s one of the most luxurious spots in Mexico.

For The Love of Travel

I love traveling to hidden, off-the-beaten-path, inaccessible, far-flung destinations. I love hotels that are boutique in size, blend seamlessly into the environment, and whose entrances are easily passed unnoticed.

The Four Seasons Punta Mita is not one of those places.

Yet, it is as close to resort perfection as one can find. Anyone who has been there can write effusive, enthusiastic, and exuberant reviews; wax lyrical about its well-appointed rooms, and its impeccable grounds, and define the nuances between each of the five on-site restaurants. Anyone can describe this stunning property that hangs magnificently off of a jagged, rugged peninsula.

I started to think, (a dangerous undertaking as my husband likes to chide). There are countless typical luxuries that we have come to expect from world-class resorts. Yet, I wondered if there are new table stakes at play. Is there a new set of expectations, now as we begin to crawl out of our bubbles, and into a decidedly different world of travel?

Are these new luxury amenities tangible, intangible, or both? Does the Four Seasons in Punta Mita deliver? And what role, if any, does Mother Nature play? Let’s tally it up.

Setting the stage at the best family resort in Punta Mita

Punta Mita is a 1500-acre private peninsula in Nayarit, Mexico. The peninsula, surrounded by the mighty Pacific on three sides, is a gated community of perfectly extravagant villas, perfectly pristine beach resorts, and perfectly manicured golf courses. Do you detect a theme? Perfect, read on.

Upon arriving at the richly colored garden entrance of the Four Seasons, we are whisked through the open-air lobby towards the hotel’s money view. It’s an expansive 360-degree panorama of the ocean and grounds. Liliana, our concierge, treats us to the new-ish hospitality trend, the ‘non’ check-in, check-in.

We are invited to sit and relax. A server stood nearby with glasses of bubbly, ruby-red fruit punch, and a carafe of tequila (for those of us keen to start the festive season straight away).

Our bags are swiftly transferred to our rooms. No fussy front desk, no wasted minutes waiting for a room key, and no delays. (The Four Seasons: 1, Mother Nature: 0)

Oceanfront life at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

The Oceanfront Casita was true to its name. It isn’t unusual for a resort to claim an oceanfront room that is actually not quite ‘fronting’ the ocean. Anyone who says a hotel room is just a place to rest their head at night hasn’t been to this room.

Our casita was close enough to the sea that I tasted the salt in the air when I stood on the veranda. All that lay between us and the water’s edge were a few low-lying desert plants and lone cacti.

Floor-to-ceiling doors slid open to the outermost edges of the room—a stage welcoming us to the Pacific. The room itself is simple and modern. Each piece of furniture is arranged to maximize the view. A table filled with housemade chips, guacamole, and yet more tequila sat nearby. If the Four Seasons were trying to get us to spend seven days in our casita, they were doing an excellent job.

A flock of seagulls skimmed the water’s surface in front of me, as if on cue from the front desk. An enormous, perfectly-placed boulder broke the surface of the water in the near distance. Later that evening, we discovered it lit by a spotlight, creating an ethereal shimmer to the otherwise inky, black sea.

Which was here first, I wondered, the rock or the resort? My money was on the rock, whose starring role at the resort was likely discovered by a group of clever architects. (Four Seasons: 1, Mother Nature: 1)

Start your day with a Smize

I’m biased toward Mexico. It is a country whose hospitality has welcomed us countless times over the years. Whether a villa vacation, a swanky beach resort, or a wind sports mecca in a sleepy fishing village, Mexico over-delivers. Where is the Mexican hospitality manual hiding, and why won’t they share it with the rest of the world?

The main restaurant, Dos Catrinas, opened up towards the Pacific Ocean. Rafael greeted me each morning and caught on to my breakfast routine immediately. A creature of habit, I like to sit leisurely with my first cappuccino, sometimes writing, sometimes watching for whales, always observing and overhearing, before I move on to anything food-related.

Overheard in Punta Mita

A man at the next table appeared to have a serendipitous encounter with an old acquaintance. Without a trace of irony, he asked, “So, have you had a good year?”. I cringed. At another table, I heard a toddler ask her dad, “What’s your spirit animal?” What’s mine, I thought? Overhearing is a favorite vacation pastime.

Rafael had an endearing way of smiling with his eyes. In our current mask-wearing world, a ‘smize’, or eye smile, is a thing. Just ask supermodel, Tyra Banks, who coined the verb back in 2009 on her TV series, America’s Top Model. Rafael nailed the smize—Tyra would have been impressed. (The Four Seasons: 2, Mother Nature: 1)

The staff’s graciousness was a thread that ran deep and wide throughout the resort. While one could argue that that kind of hospitality is table stakes at a luxury resort (and I agree, it is) somehow, the Four Seasons took it much further. They made a 170+ room resort feel as small and personal as a boutique hotel.

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Beaching, the sport

The two, wide crescent beaches that flanked the property equally captured my attention. More naturally placed boulders and rocks jutted out from the sea, and foamy white, waves crashed against them with wild abandon.

At the start of sunset, when the tide was low, we walked far out into the tidal pools and admired the views of the coastline from afar.

We are beach people and settled ourselves on loungers under wide, thatched umbrellas each morning. Hours melted away. All meals and drinks were conveniently delivered to us. I looked at my step counter for the day: 26. Yikes.

Less typical beachside surprises came in the form of a pop-up catered birthday party on the sand. Or, the roving foot masseuses that could be booked on demand. A daily ‘treat’ (ice-pop, fruit, iced drink), was offered each afternoon, along with the resort’s ice cream cart that had kids and adults alike lining up.

A sandy taco stand nestled between the two coastal crescents served up trios of made-to-order tacos. Home-made pico de gallo topped the pork carnitas and low-key wooden picnic tables made for a lazy, boozy, lunch.

An Evian spritz, and a white, chilled towel, came by just when the sun was at its peak. And, although I didn’t meet him, the resort had a roaming ‘sunglass doctor’, for those who may have had an icky smudge on their Maui Jims. Over the top? For sure. Yet, all these perks were somehow delivered in an unobtrusive, dare I say, understated way.

Resident Hawks at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

The most clever beach amenity, however, was not on the beach. Two regal resident hawks swiftly flew overhead throughout the day. Originally, I assumed the hawks and their falconer were there as entertainment for the kids.

In fact, they were there to scare away greedy crows, and any other birds that attempted to steal a guest’s guacamole when they were otherwise snoozing, or deep into the latest Kristin Hannah novel. A natural way to eradicate a simple nuisance. Novel, indeed! (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 1)

More family-friendly resort ideas:

Far off the beaten path and surfing on-site—Mukul, in Nicaragua, is the ultimate resort for the family.

Keep Mexican hospitality top of mind at yet another family-friendly spot, Esperanza in Cabo San Lucas.

Insta-Pooling at the best family resort in Punta Mita

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Nuna, the resort’s stunningly designed infinity-edged pool. Nuna could have had its own Instagram account, and perhaps it does. By day, its glassy surface mirrored the tall palms and the clouds above. At sunset, it reflected the prismatic patterns of orange, red, and purple that took over the sky.

The pool was a show-stopper. Even the semicircular shaded awning, for those who prefer less sun, was photo-worthy. Uniquely designed, guests could enjoy both the pool and its views over the ocean, simultaneously.

We lost our younger kids to the lazy river for a few hours each day. I tend to associate a lazy river with an opulent, over-the-top, behemoth of a hotel on an island in the Atlantic. The Four Seasons interpretation was tasteful and nestled deeply enough into the resort that one might miss it if unaware of its presence.

The lazy river, combined with a large game room (ping pong, air hockey, and about a dozen large, flat-screen, PlayStations), made the resort kid-friendly without being kid-centric. The game room was also an ideal way to protect them from the sun’s midday rays for a bit. Win, win.

Wildlife, if you know where to look

Diego, one of the many personable waiters, told me that whales usually passed by the resort between 3-4pm, on their way from Puerto Vallarta. I didn’t Doubt Diego but only hoped the whales were punctual, as I was excited to enjoy the whale procession with my afternoon latte.

Whale watching has always been one of my favorite sports in Mexico. I only wish it burned more calories.

As it turns out, the whales were in good form that week, maybe celebrating the end of 2020 with the same enthusiasm that we were. My binoculars were constantly scanning the sea for the tell-tale ocean spray. A clue that a whale will soon break the surface for air. (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 2)

Later in the evening, dozens of baby sea turtles were released into the Pacific, their tiny flippers pushing through the sand. Shallow waves knocked them off balance for a moment while they once again found their bearings.

It was impossible not to route for them as they blindly struggled to reach the sea. Mother Nature in all her glory. (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 3)

On-site surf at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

The rest of my family prefers sports that actually do burn calories. One of the inherent draws of the Four Seasons Punta Mita was the opportunity to surf directly from the resort’s beach. This is unusual. At many resort-based surfing destinations, one needs to drive to get to the ideal surf spot. Having it on-site was a luxurious convenience.

We first met Grant, from TropicSurf, a few years back during a spring break at Mukul, an Auberge resort, in Nicaragua. Our kids had immediately taken to the breaks with his enthusiasm and encouragement. On this trip, Grant even managed to get me out on a board. No small feat, as many of my friends know, being in the ocean is decidedly not my thing.

Although TropicSurf is not a part of the Four Seasons resort, it is a snap to organize. The combination of having TropicSurf on hand and the natural environment in which to surf give a point to both Mother Nature and the resort. (The Four Seasons: 4, Mother Nature: 4)

Mother Nature, for the win at The Four Seasons

How often does one wake up in the morning to a full moon? For me, once.

7:46am December 30, 2020. A rising full moon cast light across the sea towards my veranda. The rarity of the moment did not escape me, nor did the fact that I could see the lunar seas and highlands of the moon’s surface with my naked eye.

The sea bubbled under the moonlit path that unfurled towards me like a red carpet on Oscar Night. Layers of pale pinks and cornflower blues stretched across the sky like an enormous gender reveal for twins.

I thought about the whales—were they confused? Would they still head up here from Puerto Vallarta today as planned? The sun began to rise quickly, greedily chasing the moon from its territory. I watched with as much intensity as I could manage pre-caffeine. The sky was changing at breakneck speed, and this unique phenomenon, I knew, would soon be over.

8:17am. A fitting goodbye for 2020. I got dressed and headed towards caffeine. (The Four Seasons: 4, Mother Nature: 5)

Nothing is perfect

I am reluctant to use the word ‘perfect’ in travel writing. Perfect has a ceiling. It doesn’t allow room for improvement—and who doesn’t have room to improve? Here, I used “perfect” to question the perception of perfection and to think about my own ideals and needs.

Time, as my Soul Cycle instructor, Tanysha, proclaimed mid-ride yesterday, is one thing we can never get back. There is a time and place for adventure and a time and place for pure luxury, both tangible and intangible.

The Four Seasons Punta Mita may be considered a ‘typical’ luxury beach resort. Yet, it found atypical ways to push the envelope in new travel expectations (with a little help from Mother Nature). Some might even say, perfect.

But who’s keeping score?

Click here and see what all the fuss is about at The Four Seasons, Punta Mita

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April 17, 2021
5 stunning villas that will inspire your next getaway

Planning a villa getaway

Now is the time to start planning a villa getaway. Villas, as opposed to hotels, is a natural choice for social distancing. They are inherently secluded and allow guests to spread out. Villas erase the need for babysitters or restaurants since a personal chef can be one of the decadent perks of villa life.

Finding the right villa can be a labor of love. It needs the optimal balance of indoor and outdoor living and is designed with views in mind. They need to have just the right collection of ‘toys’, whether for age 4 or 40.

Super-luxe amenities may include an infinity pool, a beachfront location, and a built-in sound system. A fully-stocked, complimentary, wine cellar, and a yoga sanctuary. These are all in the mix of what makes a villa good, versus absolutely mind-blowing.

These days, understated luxury is all the more sought after. As opposed to extravagant, over-the-top, opulence. The biggest compliment for a villa is that it is so tranquil and so thoughtfully laid out that no one ever wants to leave it.

What follows are my top five villas around the globe. Get ready to pull the trigger.

Best Villa Getaway #5

One-Bedroom Pool Villa at The Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Marrakech, Morocco

Villa Vibe: Modern-riad oasis

The Moroccan property of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel is a short drive from the famous Medina of Marrakech. Yet, it feels like another world. It has over 20 hectares of jasmine patches, olive trees, and 100,000 fragrant roses. The hotel’s 54 private villas dot the property in a scenic serpentine route. Reflecting pools and majestic, wavering palms abound.

Why I like the villas at the Mandarin Oriental:

The austere, one-bedroom pool villa has a rose-covered entry and an oversized, wooden door that opens into a private courtyard.

A long, dramatic, pool welcomes guests like a red carpet to the Oscars. At its far end, the pool morphs into a sheltered hot tub. It nestles squarely against the sliding glass doors of the master suite.

Each room opens up to the central courtyard, reinforcing the blurry edges of indoor and outdoor living. Contemporary Moroccan decor is captured in subtle ways. Soft Berber rugs, elaborate, stone artwork, and even the design details of lampshades.

A hammam-inspired shower is an Arabic bathing ritual used for cleansing. It’s an added luxurious feature of the villa. Yet, it posed yet another distraction from exploring the mesmerizing city of Marrakech.

USP (Unique Selling Point): An elongated, horizontal fire pit cuts into the courtyard wall. An outdoor kitchen and bar, with plush outdoor sofas, make the inside of the villa nearly redundant. It’s just this combination of open-plan architecture overlaid with total seclusion, that makes this hotel villa so enchanting.

Best Villa Getaway #4

The Three-Bedroom Beach Residence at Sugar Beach, St Lucia

Villa Vibe: Colonial charm, perfected

The majestic, towering Pitons are a duo of volcanic spires and the visual centerpiece of the island of St Lucia. They stand at 2,618ft and 2,438ft respectively. The Pitons are the geological defining feature of this mountainous paradise in the Windward Islands.

Viceroy Sugar Beach, once a thriving 18th-century sugar plantation, won the Caribbean lottery on location. It’s one of only two resorts that rest between the Pitons, and the only one that is beachfront. They’ve been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. At any given time of day, one Piton is lit to perfection, while the other lies in dramatic shadow.

Both Pitons are magnificent around the clock. In fact, they are so highly regarded, that they are proudly displayed on the national flag, as well as the name of the local beer. Two high honors, indeed.

Why I like the beach residences at Sugar Beach:

Our plantation-inspired, three-bedroom beach residence has uninterrupted 360 views of the sea. It also sits steps from the beach. Standing on the expansive pool deck, I look to my left—Gros Piton. I look to my right—Petit Piton. Straight ahead are crystal clear cerulean waters. Each direction I face is more inspiring than the next.

Every room has large glass-paned windows that face the ocean. Sliding glass doors reinforce the melding of indoor and outdoor life. From the lantern-lit deck, we watch the chartered catamarans and sailboats slowly drift in and out of the harbor. An unvarnished portrait of the seascape is constantly re-imagined before our eyes.

Four-poster beds have romantic, voile draping that evoked a dream-like sanctuary. White-on-white, silky Egyptian cotton linens, contrast with wooden, colonial touches. Natural jute weaves and rattan adds to the breezy vibe of the residence.

A long, infinity pool parallels the sea, hovering just high enough above it so that it feels as if we are swimming laps alongside the horizon. The connecting hot tub makes for the most secluded sundowner spot on the island.

USP: Beach residences come with a personal butler to attend to all needs that may arise during the stay. Guests are given a cell phone with their direct dial. Butlers can organize excursions, massage appointments, and food and beverage stocked upon arrival.

Best Villa Getaway #3

Casa Majani, Punta Mita, Mexico

Villa Vibe: The ultimate in understated luxury

Punta Mita is an exclusive resort community in Nayarit, Mexico. It has long been associated with understated, beachfront beauty. It’s also the home to both St. Regis and the Four Seasons resorts. Set upon 1500 swoon-worthy acres, and surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on three sides, the lure of Punta Mita is palpable.

There is no shortage of heart-stopping villas to be found on this gently manicured private peninsula in the Pacific Ocean. However, the serene undercurrent of Villa Casa Majani mimics the peninsula itself, with water as its defining feature.

Why I like Casa Majani:

Casa Majani boasts six seductive bedrooms, interconnected via garden-filled pathways, Manzanillo trees, and meandering reflecting pools.

Photo Credit: Casa Majani

Suite Keili is one of two master suites and is best described as a ‘bedroom island.’ The infinity pools that surround the suite look on towards the ocean. They mirror the prismatic colors of the Mexican sky.

Photo Credit: Casa Majani

The architectural centerpiece of the villa is the enormous thatched-roofed grand palapa loft. Infinitely breezy, it plays many roles. Pre-dinner cocktail lounge, shady reading nook, or whale-watching perch.

The natural hues and wooden accents are in line with a modern Mexican aesthetic. Touches of bright, traditional colors like persimmon, fuchsia, and lime green, accent the decor artfully.

On our visit, it takes all of one morning for the seasoned staff to remember each of our names, as well as our caffeinated vices. Mini tacos with fresh guacamole appear poolside before anyone’s stomach had the chance to rumble.

Hand-crafted cocktails magically arrive at the first signs of dusk. A dedicated concierge helped facilitate our needs, whether organizing an on-site masseuse, or a group tequila tasting.

Photo Credit: Casa Majani

USP: Casa Majani is a destination unto itself. But should guests decide to venture off-property, access to the Four Seasons and St Regis resorts is included. Given that Casa Majani has its own yoga studio and gym, one should choose excursions wisely.

Best Villa Getaway #2

Villa Laura, Cortona, Italy

Villa Vibe: Under the Tuscan sun, literally

A sweeping property just outside of the walled Italian village of Cortona is the famed setting of the film, Under the Tuscan Sun. Guests of Villa Laura, have an opportunity to create their own Tuscan memories in this restored 17th-century villa.

Why I like Villa Laura:

The movie and book are based on Frances Mayes’ experience at Bramasole, which means ‘to yearn for the sun.’ It’s something you may never do, as the property fully absorbs every ray of sunlight, whether indoors, or out. Three unique buildings nestle within the property and manicured gardens. The Villa, the Farmhouse, and the Limonaia. There are ten ensuite guest rooms between them.

The buildings date back to 600AD, and part of the charm of Villa Laura is the history that is sensed as you spend time exploring the grounds. The washed stucco villa, with sage green-painted shutters, changes color from pale yellow to rich gold over the course of the day. Light shifts and unfolds. The stone-walled farmhouse has an outdoor dining area that overlooks miles of the verdant Italian countryside.

USP: Every outdoor path presents one stunning photo opportunity after another. A grand pool, a hot tub, and an organic vegetable garden complete the scene.

Indoors, guests will find a pool table, games room, and stocked wine cellar. The nearby village of Cortona might be calling, but it will undoubtedly be difficult to answer.

Best Villa Getaway #1

Villa Ixfalia, St Barths

Villa Vibe: Swanky French Riviera

The overgrown jungle-like entrance of St Barth’s Villa Ixfalia is deceptive. Perhaps, this is intentional—the drama of a velvet curtain opening at showtime. A wooden planked path leads guests through a wide threshold and into a vast, open-air living space.

Why I like Villa Ixfalia:

Over twenty rattan lampshades dangle above in varying shapes, sizes, and heights. Yet, as mesmerizing as they may be, chances are you won’t notice them. Your eyes will be instinctively drawn ahead.

Cue the panorama. The only thing that lies between you and the Caribbean Sea is a glacial blue infinity pool. Perched several hundred feet in the air, you may feel you are swimming in the sky. Vistas overlooks the beaches of this swanky European-influenced island.

Rooms are designed in soft earth tones, and with natural textiles, all sea-facing. Some have private outdoor showers, and all have flat-screen Apple TVs and found objects. Bleached animal skulls, driftwood sculptures, and gigantic white shells add to the nature-inspired villa vibe.

The master bedroom’s king-sized bed faces floor-to-ceiling glass doors that open to the pool. One feels miles above the world, both literally and figuratively. A welcomed distance from reality.

USP: The infinity pool and patio have tiers of large, double-wide sun loungers and captivating views of Eden Rock Resort. Guests will find themselves in a constant conundrum—wanting to explore the island but never wanting to leave the villa. With a dedicated butler and French chef on hand, there is virtually no need.

Get villa-inspired

Many of these villas fall firmly in the ‘understated luxury’ category. But there are countless iterations of this vacation to suit different budgets and geographic restraints.

There are local Airbnbs, far-flung Airbnb Luxe destinations, intimate cabin stays glamping or mountain treehouses. Then, of course, there are luxury hotels that offer private villas and residences. All you need is a bit of inspiration and creativity. A villa vacation can’t come soon enough.

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October 27, 2020
Discover Why Esperanza is the Family Escape You Need

The resort we chose for spring break, not surprisingly, needed to be family-friendly. There is a difference, however, between family-friendly and completely geared toward kids. Striking that balance is never easy, many places have good intentions but fail. Esperanza, in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, had been recommended to me over the years, so we went for it.

It managed to combine all the touches that would make my husband and me happy: the gorgeous views, great food, and thoughtful service, as well as all the things our kids would want. When we booked, we had no idea what would happen in the world just a few months later, but we pushed forward and ended up with a (different kind of) trip to remember.

A Day Like Any Other

It’s March 11th. The president has just announced that all US nationals must return from Europe. There is panic overseas as Americans scramble to get home within two days. There is panic at airports and at universities where students study abroad. There is panic everywhere, it seems. I panic, too.

That evening, my husband and I went back and forth about whether we stay home or go away as planned to Mexico. It’s our kid’s spring break, that coveted two-week bridge between winter and spring, cold and hot. We agree—we will go. An hour later, we agree again—we should stay. The next morning, we agree one more time—let’s just go. Rarely are our views so aligned! Yet, it was far from comforting.

We are aware that this might be our last vacation for a while. We grasp that we are on the cusp of something big. We know our family would benefit from time away, together, and outside of the escalating chaos. We realize that if we go, things will look much different when we return.

We organize ourselves. We prepare to turn around upon touchdown, or, to stay indefinitely, and pack accordingly. Six bottles of Theraflu, five canisters of disinfectant wipes, and three hand pumps of Purell. Is that enough? Are we really going? What did we agree upon again?

It’s March 14th. Lift off.

Touch Down

When we landed in Cabo San Lucas, we were keenly aware that this vacation would be unlike any other. A telling sign was that our plane, normally booked solid at this time of year, boarded only 30 passengers. Social distancing, a term swiftly creeping into everyday vernacular, was not an issue.

The days ahead would be inherently more reflective and heavier with the uncertainty of the future. I knew this trip would be inked in my memory, and not for the usual reasons.

Esperanza

Often, I write about the overall feel of a destination, the gestalt—to use a theory that would make my art history professor proud. My brain simplifies and organizes ideas in a way that is more user-friendly, and more interesting to read. For instance, describing the way the bedsheets felt, or what combination of spices were in that delicious tortilla soup. How, and if, the resort organically settled into its surroundings. Details that prove to be big and important in the world of inspirational travel. Details that make for pretty sound bites.

Esperanza, as anyone can see from photos, is a stunning property that sits upon a jagged cliff above the Sea of Cortez. There is much I can say about the beauty, both natural, and man-made, of this Auberge-owned hotel.

I am going to focus more on the feelings that made our time in Mexico worthwhile, to illustrate the emotive piece of the trip. And, I’m going to write about whales.

Rituals

The main restaurant at Esperanza, Cocina del Mar, is an aerie—as easily suited to hawks as humans, perched high above a small beach. On the way to breakfast each morning, the kids raced to the circular landing at its entrance to glimpse the daily sand drawing. Along the way, we all tried to guess what it might be—a crab, sailboat, and shell. Why this part of the day became such a highlight amused me. I think the idea of a happy surprise was needed, no matter how small.

I naturally fell into a daily ritual of my own. First, I ordered a wellness shot of turmeric root, lime juice, pineapple, and ginger. I didn’t actually enjoy its robust taste or its jarring school bus color, but I wistfully imagined its medicinal value could keep a virus at bay.

What’s Newsworthy?

Next, I read the news, a 15-minute self-imposed maximum, as it made my heart race and my skin heat up. Wasn’t I here partly to escape the news cycle—which was inconsistent, filled with misinformation, and designed to terrify?

Lastly, I looked at the sea, training my vision for the tell-tale puffs of air that signaled a whale’s presence. Some mornings, they popped through the surface like champagne corks on New Year’s Eve, and other days, they were more elusive. This morning routine settled me, and the whale spotting became another highlight of my day. It gave me restorative moments of calm. By the second breakfast, the waiters knew my order, where I liked to be seated, and had a pair of binoculars on standby.

During our week at Esperanza, the world outlook became bleaker, the news became direr. I woke up each day, wondering if this was going to be the last, that we would have to pack up and go. I relied upon the whales to ground my spinning thoughts.

Color and light

The color palette of Esperanza mimicked the landscape. Pale blue, inky blue, beige, and foamy white—naturally soothing colors. Rolling waves edged up, and then crashed below, the rocky promontory where I sat, showing off as if they were a slo-mo video capture for the latest iPhone commercial. Who knew how deafening the sound of the sea could be until you had all the time in the world to listen?

The light was so pretty it appeared to stick to the obsidian-textured rocks. Several hundred wet, black crabs moved as one over them, giving the impression that the rocks were fluid, rather than solid. The gestalt theory again, is the principle of ‘common fate’—that our brains will lump together individual things that move in a similar direction as a group, and consider it one stimulus. It’s pretty clear I had too much time alone with my thoughts at this point, isn’t it?

Animal Kingdom

I watched the cast of crabs (yes, that is the technical term, I just googled it) scuttle as a unit, and immediately felt my blood pressure plummet. Why don’t I watch the Discovery Channel more often, I chided myself. It’s cheaper than therapy! Wildlife viewing—an organic cure-all.

A pair of iguanas played peek-a-boo around the desert-like boulders near the pool. I gathered they were the resident reptiles, and for many days spied them searching for whales with me.

Little Kindnesses

It was clear early on that the resort was overstaffed, having prepared for the normal onslaught of families worldwide to fill their swimming pools, belly up to their bars, and keep the tennis pros on their toes. The resort, a mix of haciendas, suites, villas, and casitas, looked to be at about 40% capacity when we arrived. When we departed, I sensed there were only about 40 guests left.

Waiters glided about the palm-thatched and open-air restaurants, never forgetting an extra wedge of lime for a beer or the preference for soy milk over cow. This was made only slightly easier to remember by the unfortunate fact that the staff outnumbered the guests. At Esperanza, however, attentive service was par for the course, served daily with warm, engaging smiles.

I was impressed by the above-and-beyond kindnesses, the silent and unsaid courtesies that were extended to everyone, by everyone, all of the time. It was as if the waiters, pool staff, and groundskeepers all knew that something was changing and that it may be a while before they returned to any sense of normalcy. They were right.

Images

I can’t say we didn’t fully take advantage of the bubble we found ourselves in that week. Our family bonded in a different way than usual. We were very together, a precursor for the weeks of togetherness ahead.

My son and husband went on a few long desert runs, harassing skittish rabbits along the way. The kids rode waves with local surf instructors. I spent hours coloring with fine-tipped sharpies on the balcony—my current obsession, while the kids made Tik Toks—their current obsession. All of us tore through novels, having brought stacks from home.

The Intrinsic Beauty of Esperanza

I relished any moment that got me past recurring doomsday thoughts. The lulling beach hammock, the statuesque iguanas, the pool waiters who wore pins that cheerfully cried, ‘Yes way, rosé!’. The serendipitous moment I photographed a fisherman just as he reeled in his catch and the way he proudly held up his prize. The prismatic sunsets each night belied the dark state of the world. Those six nights stretched into forever.

The intrinsic beauty of Esperanza was seen, and felt, inside and out. The 17 acres of lush, well-kept gardens, and grounds, are complete with a lovely koi pond, and interesting kid-centric activities like bocce and life-sized chess. The intimate spa is an oasis within the oasis. The nightly bonfire on the balcony of the main entry—all contributed to that escape from reality we were seeking.

Whales

On the day that would become our last full day in Mexico, we spent a few hours at sea searching for whales. The boat picked us up from the pier, and we leisurely motored past the intsa-ready Arch of Cabo San Lucas. This natural rock formation, teetering on the brink of collapse, is located at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula. Normally overrun with tourist boats competing for pole position, we nearly had it to ourselves.

Our captain was, not surprisingly, well versed in all things whale and had a keen eye for spotting them, even from incalculable distances. Yet, as prepared as we were to see what we came for, witnessing the slow-motion corkscrew movement of a breaching whale is nothing short of heart-stopping. Even the biggest grumps in our group (ahem, Chase and Ella) were without words, maybe for the first time. The whales’ powerful and muscular bodies were awesome; their tails slapped the water like pancakes being flipped by a short-order cook.

Seconds later, as if the universe was trying to tell me, ‘You’ve seen all there is to see here, don’t push your luck.’ a burst of texts from well-meaning friends alerted us of the recent world developments. ‘The US borders are closing’, they wrote — ‘when are you coming back?’

Our time was up.

Closure

We had managed six nights in Cabo San Lucas, and every one of them was a bonus in my eyes. I sat at breakfast, wellness shot in hand, that last morning. If Esperanza does any one thing to perfection, it is dining, where even the indoor seating feels like outdoor seating. And the views were transporting, regardless of the time of day.

Throughout the week, I noticed the guests that had canceled their trips by their absence on the neatly spaced pool loungers. (Loungers that would have been annoyingly spoken for by 7am each morning.) I noticed the lack of ambient noise and family chatter in the empty seats of the restaurants. It was a poignant, quiet, self-reflecting spring break. Not exactly what we had in mind when we booked all those months ago, but lovely in many ways, nonetheless.

My mind filled in those gaps. Another principle of gestalt—is closure. In design, closure refers to how the brain will automatically fill in any missing pieces of an image to create a whole. What missing pieces will I bring back into my life, and what pieces will I purposely leave out when I get home?

Esperanza will once again fill its pools, bars, and suites. It may be filling up as we speak, as restrictions loosen, and people decide they don’t want to cook, go food shopping, or clean dishes for a few days. The thoughtful, and extremely capable staff, is waiting. So are the whales. I’m hoping that the whales are waiting, too.

Where will you find yourself next? Just Click.

Experience the magical and color-filled Slot Canyons with Amangiri as your base, in Utah.

Stay out west a little longer and head to the Tetons in Jackson.

Need more adventure? Dunton Hot Springs, in Colorado, will complete your western travel trilogy.

June 19, 2020
The Best Lunch Spot in Antigua is…

Catherine’s Café, The Best Lunch in Antigua

Some days I can hardly remember what I ate for breakfast. On other days, I can’t remember what book I am reading. More often than I’d like to admit, I can’t remember what day of the week it is. What I do remember though, is the best beach lunch I had on the island of Antigua nearly 15 years ago.

My husband, our daughter (who was then nine months old), and I, traveled to this charming Caribbean island in the West Indies for the wedding of close friends. Being new parents, and tired parents, we tried to keep up with all of the festivities of the young, hip, and childless wedding crowd.

We made a decent effort, and really placed it all on the line for a festive lunch at Catherine’s Café, knowing full well that daytime drinking, and parenting an infant, could be a disastrous combination.

Catherine’s has since changed locations, from a waterfront deck at English Harbour, to a beachside one, at the tip of Pigeon Beach, overlooking Falmouth Harbour.

However, much remains unchanged — the salty, seaside vibe, the perfectly-paced tempo of the music, and the dreamy lull of the breezy sea air. So what if I can’t remember exactly what Catherine’s looked like back then, or what I ate? The feeling was the memory. And it felt right, again.

Booked on a feeling at Catherine’s Cafe

When we decided to book a family trip to Antigua, it was based on emotion and memory. My husband and I had two priorities, lunch at Catherine’s Café, and sunset views at Shirley Heights Lookout.

For those who know us, it isn’t completely surprising that we would plan a trip around a restaurant, or a view, or a feeling. Not that our knee-jerk reactions to travel haven’t occasionally led us astray. I have booked a hotel in the wrong part of a city, or the country, or unknowingly during the rainy season. Whoops.

More often than not, however, I do the research and the planning. Yet, being surprised by a mistake can sometimes be exciting. It can also cause marital stress, but that’s a different post.

Set sail for Antigua

The islands of Antigua and Barbuda were settled by the English in 1632 and eventually gained independence in 1981. Antigua has much to offer tourists, yet for some reason doesn’t feel ruled by tourism.

In 2016, Antigua became home to a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nelson’s Dockyard. In order to be deemed a UNESCO site, a place or landmark must have ‘cultural, historical and/or natural significance’. It is legally protected from then onwards for future generations to enjoy. We walked around this small piece of history at dusk, the orange glow of the sun simmering in the inky sea—mere inches from some of the world’s most expensive and drool-inducing yachts.

Nelson’s Dockyard is also the home to Antigua’s famous annual sailing regatta. Drawing competitors worldwide, and heading into its 53rd year, I was amused to discover the inspiration for the famous week-long regatta.

As the story goes—in 1968, a group of island hoteliers and friends thought they could extend the winter tourist season by adding on the regatta. This clever idea has since become a strong part of Antigua’s heritage and culture, not to mention an excuse to check out the 150-200 yachts that descend upon the island each year.

Antigua: the Nature Island

Despite the glamorous yachts and sailboats, Antigua is remarkably chill in attitude, content to allow its natural wonders to take center stage. These natural wonders, many small and hidden, are patiently waiting for you if you take the time to really look.

We kayaked along shallow serpentine inlets that opened up to a large, serene pond. Gray herons swooped noisily over our heads, while clusters of flying fish paralleled our route. I collected microscopic, pale pink, jewel-like shells. Both full, and double, rainbows appeared after nearly every passing shower.

Early one morning on the beach, I watched Piers Morgan (yes, that Piers Morgan) take a photo of his wife in front of a particularly vibrant double rainbow. Nearby, an Antiguan woman from the resort murmured, “We see that every day.” I wasn’t sure if she meant the double rainbow or Piers Morgan. A unique daily sighting, either way.

Zooming in on my photos a little later, I laughed as I realized that my shot of the double rainbow captured Piers taking a photo of it, too. When I checked out his Instagram feed, sure enough, there it was. How meta.

Overall, there is a kind of beauty in Antigua that can only be revealed by allowing the mind to stop thinking and just look. A slow burn of beauty, a marathon, rather than a sprint, of beauty. (Note to self: you have officially overused the word ‘beauty’. Find thesaurus.)

Antigua’s Shirley Heights Lookout

Once a military lookout and gun battery, Shirley Heights is now a party every Sunday night for locals and tourists alike. In order to fully appreciate this sunset celebration, you need to get past the expected cheesiness; the loud reggae band, the cheap drinks, the throng of (sometimes not so civilized) tourists, and just go for it. Why? Because Shirley Heights, at 490 feet and with 360-degree views, offers the best panorama of the island, hands down.

If you are at all like us, and only interested in the sunset, go early, grab a drink, and a coveted spot on the ledge that overlooks Falmouth and English Harbours. Then, hold your ground.

We watched as a rainstorm swept over the harbors, obscuring them completely, and then clear just in time for the sun to re-introduce itself and descend. Despite the drizzle, we stayed put, refusing to give up our perch. It was worth getting a little wet, the sky was mesmerizing and dramatic, offering up prismatic colors and textures that are hard to define. Shirley Heights, fifteen years later, and still on top of its game.

Taking it slowly in Antigua

Many Caribbean islands have their version of the boozy beach lunch. St Barths has the colorful daytime club/restaurant, Nikki Beach. The under-the-radar glam island of Mustique is known for its equally understated beach bar, Basil’s.

Yet, there is something about the inherent low-key-ness of Antigua that especially lends itself to dedicating long sun-framed hours to lunch. I love the natural, lazy blurring of meals when lunch is leisurely and sometimes surprisingly turns into dinner. The un-rushed antithesis of real life. Again, giving time to lingering, watching, and absorbing.

Being responsible parents, we decided to taxi to Catherine’s from our resort. Antigua is particularly hilly, with narrow roads, and it is difficult to tell what is around each corner, whether that be a secluded cove, a colorful church, or a careening truck. We thought it best to leave the driving to an island expert.

Catherine’s, at last

A wooden planked path past a bakery and a boutique led us to our destination—open-air, louver-shuttered, sea-breezy Catherine’s Café. Ahead, Veuve Clicquot branded, butter yellow umbrellas popped brilliantly from the sand, adding another layer of warmth to the already warm atmosphere.

Inviting circular loungers were haphazardly scattered around, and large Neem trees offered shade. Naked, sun-kissed French toddlers ran amok. I could tell right away that the new Catherine’s was going to be worth rediscovering.

We arrived at the unfashionably early time of 12pm, which afforded us a chance to snag a prime beachfront table. Our shoes promptly came off as we settled into the plush chairs, and into the scene. The tables filled up quickly, and we overheard one entitled guest try to buy their way to a better table position. He was really going to kill the vibe, I thought. Then I smiled and relaxed. My uncool, early timing had paid off.

Later, I overheard another guest pompously remark, “I’ve gone off Ott in favor of Whispering Angel.” A few hours at lunch here and I could easily start a new instagram account: OverheardAntigua. Maybe it already exists?

Damien, the charmer

I introduced myself to Damien, the effervescent bartender, and asked if he would mind if I used his photo on my site. Happy to oblige, he smiled, posed, then told us about his favorite drinks.

From behind the row of garnish-filled mason jars, he produced an extensive gin and tonic menu. I think he knew we were there for the long haul. Drinks-wise, Damien nailed it. Never doubt a Caribbean bartender on his own turf.

Even the color palette of Catherine’s—ecru, ivory, eggshell blue, and foamy green—seemed designed to compliment the beachscape. Tightly woven Chilewich mats, pale rattan chairs and oversized dangling, domed lampshades added to the gentle vibe of the café. The soundtrack— the ebb and flow of the sea, the soft clinking of glasses, squealing babies, and the best sound of all, the sound of true vacation laziness.

The background music that particular day was Jamiroquai, and I was suddenly overcome with nostalgia, that English funk and acid jazz brought me back to the early 90s in NYC. I love when music attaches itself to a moment. A past memory and a current one collide in the best way.

The Parisian-influenced menu made us feel like we were on a French island rather than a former British one. Halfway into our meal, a group of 15 gorgeous, tanned, twenty-somethings sat at the table beside us. The four of us quietly argued whether they were mega-yacht owners’ kids, or the cast of the TV show, Below Deck.

After a bit of research (aka questioning the waiter), we discovered they were, indeed, the crew from one of the yachts in the harbor. I kept a sharp eye on my daughter who had already fallen in love with a ruggedly handsome deckhand sitting at the head of the table.

Choices at Catherine’s

We indulged in almost everything the menu had to offer. The roast chicken was artfully placed on a slice of layered potatoes. Freshly diced tuna tartare was garnished with a touch of fennel and greens—another standout. The gazpacho was almost too pretty to eat.

A cheese course seemed important to complete the meal, or maybe just to elongate it. The baguettes were freshly baked, with perfectly salted, creamy French butter served alongside, and cut on-demand at a central area that also doubled as the barista station.

The service might have been a little snail-paced that day, but those who complained missed out on the very reason for lunching at a place like Catherine’s in the first place. It is the long meal, the marathon of courses, and the multiple bottles of wine, that make the boozy lunch a boozy lunch. The sooner one gets on island time, the better.

Memories of Antigua

So, while my memory is unreliable at the best of times, I have learned, above all else, to trust my feelings. Thank you, Catherine and Shirley, for living up to expectations, and even exceeding them in some ways. As an aside, today is Tuesday, I had a peanut butter banana smoothie for breakfast, and am currently reading The Hungry Tide, by Amitav Ghosh.

Long live the boozy beach lunch.

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February 4, 2020
St Barths is always a good idea

If a picture is worth a thousand words, then this post will virtually write itself. With boundless blue skies, and streaks of white clouds that read more watercolor than a photograph, St Barths is one unending photo op after another. To paraphrase a famous quote “St Barths is always a good idea.” I couldn’t agree more.

St. Barthélemy

Not more than a speck in the West Indies, St Barths was discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493. With a population that hovers near 10,000, French-speaking and French-influenced, this Caribbean island makes up for its small size with a grand personality. Luxury and boutique shopping, swanky restaurants, superfine, white sandy beaches, and trendy nightclubs only begin to scratch the surface of what’s on offer.

However, this post is not about St Barths, per se. It is about an extraordinary villa that just happens to be on this extraordinary island. A volcanic island that is surrounded by shallow reefs, and shades of blue water that are—to use a common cliché—indescribable. Attempting brevity, and allowing the story to unfold through the photographs, I will try my best not to overhype.

Although I won’t promise.

Villa Ixfalia

Winding up the steep, narrow streets towards the villa, streets that seem to defy the laws of traction and gravity, was an adventure in itself. A sharp inhale at each curve, wondering if a truck or car was careening toward us from the opposite direction.

St Barths has made a miraculous recovery since Irma, but there is much activity and building going on, which makes the roads even more precarious. I allow myself to exhale—we have arrived. It is the highest point on this lush, green north-facing hillside. Villa Ixfalia.

Enter at your own risk

The overgrown jungle-like entrance to Ixfalia is deceptive. Perhaps this is intentional. A way to create even greater impact—like the opening of the velvet curtain at showtime, or the unveiling of a piece of art. Walk along the wooden planked path, through the wide, glass threshold, and into the open-air living space. Twenty or more rattan lampshades lazily sway above you. Varying in shapes and sizes, and dangling at varying heights, they create a mesmerizing display.

However, as beautiful as the lights may be, chances are you won’t notice them, as your eyes are reflectively drawn forward.

Cue the panorama—the only thing that lies between you and the sea is a glacier-blue infinity pool. A pool that will make you feel like you are swimming in the sky.

Villa life at Ixfalia

Ixfalia is perched several hundred feet in the air, majestically overlooking St Jean Beach and the iconic red-roof-topped Eden Rock Hotel. The blurring of indoor and outdoor living at the villa is reinforced at every turn. Rooms are wide open to the sea in nearly every direction, with modern, sheer shades that can be electronically maneuvered when needed.

There is surround sound music that can be accessed through your personal Sonos. Don’t have a St Barths playlist? No worries, as there are a few pre-made on hand. We immediately plugged in, then jumped from daytime pool party to pre-dinner lounge party, to post-dinner dance party—everyone a DJ with competing playlists.

Chasing the sun in St Barths

As with any well-designed villa, there are multiple places to relax, have cocktails, or disappear with a good book.

Tiered patio areas offered large, soft, double-wide sun loungers. It became a daily game of leapfrog, as we lost the sun over the hillside and moved from one sunny tier to another.

Once the last drop light gave out, we prepared ourselves for sunset with spicy margueritas. We then watched the beautiful streaks of color, oranges, and purples, crisscross the sky in front of us.

At Ixfalia, It’s all in the details

Each of the four bedrooms at Ixfalia is designed in soft woods tones and natural textiles. A study in white, various shades blending and melding. Driftwood is used generously throughout the property, both in elegant, organic ways, as well as in functional ways.

A driftwood seating area doubles as art from afar, a large entanglement of wood is perfectly placed on an otherwise blank wall. It is the opposite of glitzy ornamental opulence; there are natural finishes vs. gold-plated ones. Sandstone, sand, and shells rather than gemstones, mirrors, and baubles.

Ixfalia Masterd the villa in St Barths

The master bedroom is slightly separated from the main villa, facing the sweeping sea views — with a magnificent rock formation framed behind it. Among its many amenities, it boasts an enormous bathroom, complete with a stand-alone tub and open-plan rain shower.

The walk-in closet is so large, Stella McCartney could organize her next fashion show from it with room to spare. The king bed is centered and faces the floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors that lead to the pool, and then onwards to the sea. Again, you feel like you are miles above the world, staring straight into the sky.

Found objects

The other rooms are sea-facing as well, some with private outdoor showers, all with flat-screen Apple TVs, and found objects on display. Bleached animal skulls, organic sculptures, gigantic white shells, and beadwork, among them. Every room is different, yet each with a similar low-key vibe and complimenting color palette. Rattan is a strong natural feature throughout the rooms, from the tall, standing lamps and ottomans, to the delicate cup holders that hide a bottle of Evian on the night table.

We found ourselves in a constant conundrum—wanting to explore the island but never wanting to leave the villa.

Seeing (Eden Roc) Red

Red may not be the first color that comes to mind when imagining St Barths, but it is the primary color of Eden Rock, a premier luxury resort that also owns about 100 villas dotted around the island. An Eden Rock villa will give you extra perks: pole position loungers at Nikki Beach, hard to get dinner reservations, delivery of your rental car to the villa, and daily maid service, to name a few.

An ‘Ultraluxe’ Eden Rock villa includes a dedicated butler and chef, which takes villa living to an entirely new level. Eden Rock red certainly equals access on this island, and access in St Barths can be critical depending on how much or how little you’d like to do.

Carla

The very first touch point of our trip was Carla, and up until the moment we departed, she was one of the highlights of our stay. Never without a smile, a kind word, a laugh, and a ‘with pleasure’ when asked to help, we could not have had the same trip without her.

Carla was born in Johannesburg, but raised in Italy. Her career in hospitality has taken her from Europe, to America, and back to Europe, before her current role at Eden Rock. She told us funny stories of playing Chip, from Chip and Dale, while working at the Disney cruise line. Her flawless French is mixed with a twinge of her native Italian and adds to her effervescent charm.

As I said to my husband early on, it was as if she anticipated our every need. In the gorgeous open plan of Ixfalia, she was somehow always there when needed, and magically disappeared when we didn’t.

Some joked it was going to be hard to go back to reality without Carla. What I later thought was that I wanted to go back to reality and channel a little bit of my ‘inner Carla’. Her genuine sense of kindness and her ability to deliver happiness was contagious. An extra beam of light in sunny St Barths.

The talented Ms. Virginie

The same goes for Virginie, our lovely French chef. Not only was every meal perfectly presented, both verbally and artistically, she was always smiling and happy to take requests. She shared photos of her adorable newborn son, a foodie in the making!

Breakfast each morning was a carb-oholic’s dream. Her grandmother’s brioche french toast was a true highlight, so delicate and warm, it would have been a sin to add syrup. Each morning I swore I wouldn’t indulge, yet each morning I did. The secret, she confided, was that the brioche was soaked overnight in cream. Vacation calories don’t count, right?

If you don’t have a sweet tooth, however, she had many other tricks up her sleeve: a homemade chia pudding topped with granola, platters of artfully presented fresh fruit, soft scrambled eggs with herbs and ham, and perfectly crisped bacon, to name a few.

Fresh juices: beet, green, and pineapple lined the table, as did grilled baguette drizzled with olive oil. Carla and Virginie seemed to have memorized each of our caffeine vices upon arrival and had cappuccinos or herbal teas brewing as we sat down.

Nikki Beach, St Barths

As with Carla, Virginie seemed to anticipate our every culinary need. On Sunday we were booked at Nikki Beach for brunch, a daytime pool club/restaurant that gains momentum as the day goes on.

Waiters dance with magnums of rosé on their shoulders, saxophonists perform on tabletops, and eventually, most of the room, young and old, is up and moving. The music imperceptibly ratchets up over time, so that you might find yourself struggling to have a conversation.

Knowing full well that we wouldn’t want a heavy meal later on as planned, Virginie suggested a homemade pizza night. After indulging at Nikki Beach, it was the perfect way to end our day. Every few minutes a new pizza emerged: veggie, pepperoni, four cheese, and truffle among them.

Virginie whipped up so many fantastic meals that we began to rethink our ‘in v. out’ food strategy. Her steak with homemade Bernaise sauce was divine, as was the decadent homemade chocolate chip cookie topped with ice cream.

We enjoyed a lunch of roast chicken with rosemary, quinoa salad, and baked cauliflower. It was a side dish that became a main dish: a full head of cauliflower that had been baked in spices for over two hours, then sliced table-side like a birthday cake. I am still waiting for the recipe, Virginie!

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St Barths: Beyond Ixfalia

No mega-resorts line the beachfront of St Barths, and only a handful of low-key, high-end hotels like Le Toiny and Eden Rock have been within the jet-set crosshairs for decades. There is certainly an unruffled movie star quality to the people. An air of white linen, and understated elegance that is as breezy and natural as the island itself. All within these 25 square miles seems to have more sunlight than is physically possible.

In v. Out, Le déjeuner on St Barths

We sacrificed villa time for a few noteworthy excursions. We headed to the understated beach restaurant at the glamorous Hotel Le Toiny. The property has been fully rebuilt since Irma and is nothing short of spectacular. The spare and wild coastline will have you imagining that you have the island to yourself.

The restaurant digs its feet (and tables!) firmly into the sand, no shoes are required, (or even allowed), as there is a wooden shelf to stack them as you arrive. But don’t be fooled, it is as upscale and decadent as a beach restaurant can be.

In v. Out, le dîner on St Barths

There is no shortage of dining options on the island, but getting a reservation is still a trial during the high season, so booking early is certainly the way to go. We opted for tiny L’Isola, a modern, Italian, boutique restaurant by Santa Monica chef, Fabrizio Bianconi.

L’Isola boldly dares to abide away from the beach and is tucked on the edge of St Barths’ capital, Gustavia. Despite its location, it draws a crowd that will have you standing three deep at the long, inviting bar, waiting for his inventive fare. The room is low-lit, yet the buzz is high, and you could imagine you are in Milan or NYC as easily as St Barths.

Beach life on St Barths

The rugged, rocky coastline of St Barths is possibly the most beautiful natural element it possesses. The black, porous, volcanic rocks lump together along Columbier Beach in an Instagrammers dream setting. In fact, there were more than a few young girls who made the backdrop their personal photo studio. Selfies for miles.

Columbier is not easily found, and it is either a 25-minute coastal hike or a boat to gain access, which makes the beach all the more private and exclusive feeling. Sailboats and yachts dot the bay, and goats with their kids roam the rocks. It is a 180-degree shift from extravagant Nikki Beach, yet both are worth a trip in their own right.

St Barths is always a good idea

To paraphrase Audrey Hepburn, there is very little reason not to go to St Barth’s. Whether you want to be hidden, be seen, or both/and, St Barths is one of the few Caribbean islands that has just about everything going for it. With the French twist, it also has the innate culture that some islands lack.

Where I failed in brevity, I made up for it in detail. The story wrote itself, didn’t it? It’s all in the pictures.

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Five reasons to get lost:

• The hottest and one of the most well-known venues in St Barths is Le Ti. But don’t come for the food! Le Ti is part boudoir, part cabaret, and is always completely off the charts.

• Shellona Beach at sundown is buzzy and relaxed. Grab a table in the sand, order a cocktail, and spend a few hours people-watching. Gorgeous women model clothes from the neighboring boutique, walking the beach like a catwalk.

• In-villa massages with ocean breezes are a great way to bridge the gap between day and night.

• Virginie’s overnight cream-soaked brioche. Worth another mention.

• Driving the iconic, colorful island mokes up and down the hills of St Barths. Equal parts are breathtaking and terrifying.

March 6, 2019

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