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Category: Feast in the Caribbean

5 of the Best Caribbean Beach Bars

My top five favorite Caribbean beach bars and restaurants are personal. They’re based on my memories of food, wine, people, and views. My top five list might change over time, but these are the Caribbean beach bars and beach clubs that keep my travel memories alive and kicking.

My Top Five Caribbean Beach Bars

When assessing the best beach bars, suffice it to say that I have a few baseline requirements. A vibe that naturally pairs with the island’s culture is one. Combining tourists and locals adds authenticity and credibility, and festive air helps. The food (if served) is at a culinary level that matches the establishment’s look and atmosphere. And lastly, a USP (Unique Selling Point) that makes me yearn to go back months after the holiday has ended.

Except for Anegada, I’ve been fortunate enough to visit the following Caribbean beach clubs and bars more than once. That qualifies me as an expert in my own experiences, that is. Next time you find yourself in the Caribbean (and let’s all agree that we hope that time is soon), let me know if you concur. Or better yet, tell me about your favorite Caribbean bars and restaurants.

Click Here For My Free Caribbean Beach Bar Hot Sheet

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 5 / Basil’s Bar, Mustique

Island Vibe: Celebrity Secret Hideaway

Basil’s is a Caribbean beach bar and restaurant leisurely perched on the edge of Britannia Bay in Mustique. It attempts to camouflage the island’s undercover glamour. Lush and verdant, Mustique has only two hotels and two restaurants. Its beauty is hiding in plain sight among the breezy Windward Islands.

Why I like Basil’s: Chill, open-air, Basil’s woos villa owners, villa renters, reclusive celebrities, and yachties alike, with a combination of casual food (like perfectly seasoned grilled lobsters), a low-key atmosphere, and spectacular sea views.

I’ll admit, though, that I have little memory of the food because the setting is the star, day, and night. Mega-yachts and sublime sailboats were anchored in the distance, which created another layer to this Caribbean bar’s swoon-worthy backdrop.

USP: I like to settle into the indoor/outdoor living spaces and nooks or park myself on one of the wooden stools overlooking the tranquil Caribbean Sea.

Worth mentioning: Live Music/DJ Nights/Basil’s Boutique/Accessible by car or boat

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 4 / Catherine’s Café, Antigua

Island Vibe: Casual European Beach

To say Catherine’s is a Caribbean beach club that is comfortable in her own skin is an understatement. Open-air, louver-shuttered, sea-breezy Catherine’s Café on the island of Antigua lazes under warm, butter-yellow Veuve Cliquot umbrellas.

Why I like Catherine’s: Catherine’s barefoot casual Caribbean beach bar feels like Europe. I see naked toddlers running amok with their half-naked mums chasing them. It boasts a French-inspired menu and a well-thought-out wine list.

I can’t forget our effervescent bartender, Damien, who kept us in good spirits. Neem trees enshroud the hidden location. It practically begs one to spend an afternoon there—which is exactly what we did.

USP: The cozy and intimate beach area adjacent to the bar offers lovely bay views in a secluded setting.

Worth mentioning: Live Music/Cheese Course/G+T Menu/Bakery/Boutique/Accessible by car or boat

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 3 / The Rum Bar, Cooper Island

Island Vibe: Desert-Island Barefoot Beach Shack

Our sailboat grabbed one of the last available moorings in Manchioneel Bay, off the shores of Cooper Island. I felt like a survivor about to crawl onto a deserted beach. The people lazing on the wooden decks of the Rum Bar were scrappy and barefooted, semi-drunk, and happily marooned. It was as if we had found a hidden outpost, a tiny island jewel box, where a lucky few were escaping the outside world. Idyllic.

Why I like The Rum Bar: Cooper Island has an authenticity that is somewhat unique to the British Virgin Islands, which are often heavy with tourists and can sometimes feel manufactured.

A clear sign that the Rum Bar, part of the modest Cooper Island Beach Club, is all it’s cracked up to be was that we noticed yacht crews hanging at the bar—the real-life version of ‘Below Deck.’ If the Rum Bar was where they chose to spend their limited free time, we knew we were on to something good. It‘s definitely a Caribbean beach bar worth exploring.

USP: The remote and rickety beach shack-chic setting that, true to its name, houses 280 different rums.

Worth mentioning: Bakery/Barista/Accessible only by boat/Arrive early to get one of the 30 coveted moorings

Click Here For My Free Caribbean Beach Bar Hot Sheet

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 2 / Anegada, Cow Wreck Beach Bar

Island Vibe: Utterly Remote Castaway

Seventeen nautical miles from Virgin Gorda sits the pancake flat, remote island of Anegada. The name Anegada means ‘drowned island.’ At only 28 feet tall at its highest elevation, it could not feel farther away from civilization. That’s exactly what makes this Caribbean beach bar and restaurant so enchanting.

Why do they call it Cow Wreck Beach, I wondered? In 1929, a 380-foot-long steel freighter called The Rocus was heading from Trinidad to Baltimore. The Rocus’s cargo was filled with cow bones that would later be ground into fertilizer.

Unfortunately, The Rocus made an unexpected and devastatingly final stop when she collided with Anegada’s treacherous Horseshoe Reef. Since the wreck, the ocean floor has remained eerily scattered with cow bones. As for the freighter, it’s still lodged on its starboard side just beneath the water’s surface. It hasn’t budged an inch since 1929.

Why I like Cow Wreck: There are thousands of sea urchin shells in every size and all the varying degrees of white that the sun can bleach. The sea is a color that one would immediately assume is an Instagram filter. The open-air beach bar has peeling paint, plastic chairs, and dive-y, no-frills decor.

USP: A Caribbean beach bar that is this challenging to get to only adds to its allure.

Worth mentioning: Wreck Punch/Lobster/Bar games/Accessible only by boat or ferry

Best Caribbean Beach bars: 1 / St. Barths, Nikki Beach

Island Vibe: Over-the-top beach club party

There’s nowhere else in the Caribbean quite like St. Barths. Authentic French through and through, the words St. Barths conjure up Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous glamour. Nikki Beach is ideally situated to soak up the island’s eternally sun-filled vibes.

Imagine the days when Greta Garbo and other Hollywood stars walked these very shores. Now imagine Beyonce and Jay-Z at the table beside you. Nikki Beach gradually turns up the volume throughout their two Sunday seatings. You will never want the party to end.

Why I like Nikki Beach: Dance on the tables with wild abandon whether you are 8, 18, or 88. The upbeat party on the beach is for everyone. Order one of the famous sushi boats to go along with your 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet. Go wild and pair vintage Dom Perignon with an ounce or two of caviar. The sky is the limit here in every way. No one goes home hungry or thirsty without a beachy glow after a day at Nikki Beach.

USP: Glam, glam, and more glam. Part Caribbean beach club and part beach bar, it offers killer views of St. Jean’s Bay and incredible people-watching for hours on end.

Worth mentioning: Reservations are a must/Live DJ/Special occasion splurge

Dream job: If becoming a bartender abroad is your life goal, look no further than JOOBLE for inspiration.

Click Here For My Free Caribbean Beach Bar Hot Sheet

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

February 6, 2024
The Best Lunch Spot in Antigua is…

Catherine’s Café, The Best Lunch in Antigua

Some days I can hardly remember what I ate for breakfast. On other days, I can’t remember what book I am reading. More often than I’d like to admit, I can’t remember what day of the week it is. What I do remember though, is the best beach lunch I had on the island of Antigua nearly 15 years ago.

My husband, our daughter (who was then nine months old), and I, traveled to this charming Caribbean island in the West Indies for the wedding of close friends. Being new parents, and tired parents, we tried to keep up with all of the festivities of the young, hip, and childless wedding crowd.

We made a decent effort, and really placed it all on the line for a festive lunch at Catherine’s Café, knowing full well that daytime drinking, and parenting an infant, could be a disastrous combination.

Catherine’s has since changed locations, from a waterfront deck at English Harbour, to a beachside one, at the tip of Pigeon Beach, overlooking Falmouth Harbour.

However, much remains unchanged — the salty, seaside vibe, the perfectly-paced tempo of the music, and the dreamy lull of the breezy sea air. So what if I can’t remember exactly what Catherine’s looked like back then, or what I ate? The feeling was the memory. And it felt right, again.

Booked on a feeling at Catherine’s Cafe

When we decided to book a family trip to Antigua, it was based on emotion and memory. My husband and I had two priorities, lunch at Catherine’s Café, and sunset views at Shirley Heights Lookout.

For those who know us, it isn’t completely surprising that we would plan a trip around a restaurant, or a view, or a feeling. Not that our knee-jerk reactions to travel haven’t occasionally led us astray. I have booked a hotel in the wrong part of a city, or the country, or unknowingly during the rainy season. Whoops.

More often than not, however, I do the research and the planning. Yet, being surprised by a mistake can sometimes be exciting. It can also cause marital stress, but that’s a different post.

Set sail for Antigua

The islands of Antigua and Barbuda were settled by the English in 1632 and eventually gained independence in 1981. Antigua has much to offer tourists, yet for some reason doesn’t feel ruled by tourism.

In 2016, Antigua became home to a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nelson’s Dockyard. In order to be deemed a UNESCO site, a place or landmark must have ‘cultural, historical and/or natural significance’. It is legally protected from then onwards for future generations to enjoy. We walked around this small piece of history at dusk, the orange glow of the sun simmering in the inky sea—mere inches from some of the world’s most expensive and drool-inducing yachts.

Nelson’s Dockyard is also the home to Antigua’s famous annual sailing regatta. Drawing competitors worldwide, and heading into its 53rd year, I was amused to discover the inspiration for the famous week-long regatta.

As the story goes—in 1968, a group of island hoteliers and friends thought they could extend the winter tourist season by adding on the regatta. This clever idea has since become a strong part of Antigua’s heritage and culture, not to mention an excuse to check out the 150-200 yachts that descend upon the island each year.

Antigua: the Nature Island

Despite the glamorous yachts and sailboats, Antigua is remarkably chill in attitude, content to allow its natural wonders to take center stage. These natural wonders, many small and hidden, are patiently waiting for you if you take the time to really look.

We kayaked along shallow serpentine inlets that opened up to a large, serene pond. Gray herons swooped noisily over our heads, while clusters of flying fish paralleled our route. I collected microscopic, pale pink, jewel-like shells. Both full, and double, rainbows appeared after nearly every passing shower.

Early one morning on the beach, I watched Piers Morgan (yes, that Piers Morgan) take a photo of his wife in front of a particularly vibrant double rainbow. Nearby, an Antiguan woman from the resort murmured, “We see that every day.” I wasn’t sure if she meant the double rainbow or Piers Morgan. A unique daily sighting, either way.

Zooming in on my photos a little later, I laughed as I realized that my shot of the double rainbow captured Piers taking a photo of it, too. When I checked out his Instagram feed, sure enough, there it was. How meta.

Overall, there is a kind of beauty in Antigua that can only be revealed by allowing the mind to stop thinking and just look. A slow burn of beauty, a marathon, rather than a sprint, of beauty. (Note to self: you have officially overused the word ‘beauty’. Find thesaurus.)

Antigua’s Shirley Heights Lookout

Once a military lookout and gun battery, Shirley Heights is now a party every Sunday night for locals and tourists alike. In order to fully appreciate this sunset celebration, you need to get past the expected cheesiness; the loud reggae band, the cheap drinks, the throng of (sometimes not so civilized) tourists, and just go for it. Why? Because Shirley Heights, at 490 feet and with 360-degree views, offers the best panorama of the island, hands down.

If you are at all like us, and only interested in the sunset, go early, grab a drink, and a coveted spot on the ledge that overlooks Falmouth and English Harbours. Then, hold your ground.

We watched as a rainstorm swept over the harbors, obscuring them completely, and then clear just in time for the sun to re-introduce itself and descend. Despite the drizzle, we stayed put, refusing to give up our perch. It was worth getting a little wet, the sky was mesmerizing and dramatic, offering up prismatic colors and textures that are hard to define. Shirley Heights, fifteen years later, and still on top of its game.

Taking it slowly in Antigua

Many Caribbean islands have their version of the boozy beach lunch. St Barths has the colorful daytime club/restaurant, Nikki Beach. The under-the-radar glam island of Mustique is known for its equally understated beach bar, Basil’s.

Yet, there is something about the inherent low-key-ness of Antigua that especially lends itself to dedicating long sun-framed hours to lunch. I love the natural, lazy blurring of meals when lunch is leisurely and sometimes surprisingly turns into dinner. The un-rushed antithesis of real life. Again, giving time to lingering, watching, and absorbing.

Being responsible parents, we decided to taxi to Catherine’s from our resort. Antigua is particularly hilly, with narrow roads, and it is difficult to tell what is around each corner, whether that be a secluded cove, a colorful church, or a careening truck. We thought it best to leave the driving to an island expert.

Catherine’s, at last

A wooden planked path past a bakery and a boutique led us to our destination—open-air, louver-shuttered, sea-breezy Catherine’s Café. Ahead, Veuve Clicquot branded, butter yellow umbrellas popped brilliantly from the sand, adding another layer of warmth to the already warm atmosphere.

Inviting circular loungers were haphazardly scattered around, and large Neem trees offered shade. Naked, sun-kissed French toddlers ran amok. I could tell right away that the new Catherine’s was going to be worth rediscovering.

We arrived at the unfashionably early time of 12pm, which afforded us a chance to snag a prime beachfront table. Our shoes promptly came off as we settled into the plush chairs, and into the scene. The tables filled up quickly, and we overheard one entitled guest try to buy their way to a better table position. He was really going to kill the vibe, I thought. Then I smiled and relaxed. My uncool, early timing had paid off.

Later, I overheard another guest pompously remark, “I’ve gone off Ott in favor of Whispering Angel.” A few hours at lunch here and I could easily start a new instagram account: OverheardAntigua. Maybe it already exists?

Damien, the charmer

I introduced myself to Damien, the effervescent bartender, and asked if he would mind if I used his photo on my site. Happy to oblige, he smiled, posed, then told us about his favorite drinks.

From behind the row of garnish-filled mason jars, he produced an extensive gin and tonic menu. I think he knew we were there for the long haul. Drinks-wise, Damien nailed it. Never doubt a Caribbean bartender on his own turf.

Even the color palette of Catherine’s—ecru, ivory, eggshell blue, and foamy green—seemed designed to compliment the beachscape. Tightly woven Chilewich mats, pale rattan chairs and oversized dangling, domed lampshades added to the gentle vibe of the café. The soundtrack— the ebb and flow of the sea, the soft clinking of glasses, squealing babies, and the best sound of all, the sound of true vacation laziness.

The background music that particular day was Jamiroquai, and I was suddenly overcome with nostalgia, that English funk and acid jazz brought me back to the early 90s in NYC. I love when music attaches itself to a moment. A past memory and a current one collide in the best way.

The Parisian-influenced menu made us feel like we were on a French island rather than a former British one. Halfway into our meal, a group of 15 gorgeous, tanned, twenty-somethings sat at the table beside us. The four of us quietly argued whether they were mega-yacht owners’ kids, or the cast of the TV show, Below Deck.

After a bit of research (aka questioning the waiter), we discovered they were, indeed, the crew from one of the yachts in the harbor. I kept a sharp eye on my daughter who had already fallen in love with a ruggedly handsome deckhand sitting at the head of the table.

Choices at Catherine’s

We indulged in almost everything the menu had to offer. The roast chicken was artfully placed on a slice of layered potatoes. Freshly diced tuna tartare was garnished with a touch of fennel and greens—another standout. The gazpacho was almost too pretty to eat.

A cheese course seemed important to complete the meal, or maybe just to elongate it. The baguettes were freshly baked, with perfectly salted, creamy French butter served alongside, and cut on-demand at a central area that also doubled as the barista station.

The service might have been a little snail-paced that day, but those who complained missed out on the very reason for lunching at a place like Catherine’s in the first place. It is the long meal, the marathon of courses, and the multiple bottles of wine, that make the boozy lunch a boozy lunch. The sooner one gets on island time, the better.

Memories of Antigua

So, while my memory is unreliable at the best of times, I have learned, above all else, to trust my feelings. Thank you, Catherine and Shirley, for living up to expectations, and even exceeding them in some ways. As an aside, today is Tuesday, I had a peanut butter banana smoothie for breakfast, and am currently reading The Hungry Tide, by Amitav Ghosh.

Long live the boozy beach lunch.

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February 4, 2020
St Barths is always a good idea

If a picture is worth a thousand words, then this post will virtually write itself. With boundless blue skies, and streaks of white clouds that read more watercolor than a photograph, St Barths is one unending photo op after another. To paraphrase a famous quote “St Barths is always a good idea.” I couldn’t agree more.

St. Barthélemy

Not more than a speck in the West Indies, St Barths was discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493. With a population that hovers near 10,000, French-speaking and French-influenced, this Caribbean island makes up for its small size with a grand personality. Luxury and boutique shopping, swanky restaurants, superfine, white sandy beaches, and trendy nightclubs only begin to scratch the surface of what’s on offer.

However, this post is not about St Barths, per se. It is about an extraordinary villa that just happens to be on this extraordinary island. A volcanic island that is surrounded by shallow reefs, and shades of blue water that are—to use a common cliché—indescribable. Attempting brevity, and allowing the story to unfold through the photographs, I will try my best not to overhype.

Although I won’t promise.

Villa Ixfalia

Winding up the steep, narrow streets towards the villa, streets that seem to defy the laws of traction and gravity, was an adventure in itself. A sharp inhale at each curve, wondering if a truck or car was careening toward us from the opposite direction.

St Barths has made a miraculous recovery since Irma, but there is much activity and building going on, which makes the roads even more precarious. I allow myself to exhale—we have arrived. It is the highest point on this lush, green north-facing hillside. Villa Ixfalia.

Enter at your own risk

The overgrown jungle-like entrance to Ixfalia is deceptive. Perhaps this is intentional. A way to create even greater impact—like the opening of the velvet curtain at showtime, or the unveiling of a piece of art. Walk along the wooden planked path, through the wide, glass threshold, and into the open-air living space. Twenty or more rattan lampshades lazily sway above you. Varying in shapes and sizes, and dangling at varying heights, they create a mesmerizing display.

However, as beautiful as the lights may be, chances are you won’t notice them, as your eyes are reflectively drawn forward.

Cue the panorama—the only thing that lies between you and the sea is a glacier-blue infinity pool. A pool that will make you feel like you are swimming in the sky.

Villa life at Ixfalia

Ixfalia is perched several hundred feet in the air, majestically overlooking St Jean Beach and the iconic red-roof-topped Eden Rock Hotel. The blurring of indoor and outdoor living at the villa is reinforced at every turn. Rooms are wide open to the sea in nearly every direction, with modern, sheer shades that can be electronically maneuvered when needed.

There is surround sound music that can be accessed through your personal Sonos. Don’t have a St Barths playlist? No worries, as there are a few pre-made on hand. We immediately plugged in, then jumped from daytime pool party to pre-dinner lounge party, to post-dinner dance party—everyone a DJ with competing playlists.

Chasing the sun in St Barths

As with any well-designed villa, there are multiple places to relax, have cocktails, or disappear with a good book.

Tiered patio areas offered large, soft, double-wide sun loungers. It became a daily game of leapfrog, as we lost the sun over the hillside and moved from one sunny tier to another.

Once the last drop light gave out, we prepared ourselves for sunset with spicy margueritas. We then watched the beautiful streaks of color, oranges, and purples, crisscross the sky in front of us.

At Ixfalia, It’s all in the details

Each of the four bedrooms at Ixfalia is designed in soft woods tones and natural textiles. A study in white, various shades blending and melding. Driftwood is used generously throughout the property, both in elegant, organic ways, as well as in functional ways.

A driftwood seating area doubles as art from afar, a large entanglement of wood is perfectly placed on an otherwise blank wall. It is the opposite of glitzy ornamental opulence; there are natural finishes vs. gold-plated ones. Sandstone, sand, and shells rather than gemstones, mirrors, and baubles.

Ixfalia Masterd the villa in St Barths

The master bedroom is slightly separated from the main villa, facing the sweeping sea views — with a magnificent rock formation framed behind it. Among its many amenities, it boasts an enormous bathroom, complete with a stand-alone tub and open-plan rain shower.

The walk-in closet is so large, Stella McCartney could organize her next fashion show from it with room to spare. The king bed is centered and faces the floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors that lead to the pool, and then onwards to the sea. Again, you feel like you are miles above the world, staring straight into the sky.

Found objects

The other rooms are sea-facing as well, some with private outdoor showers, all with flat-screen Apple TVs, and found objects on display. Bleached animal skulls, organic sculptures, gigantic white shells, and beadwork, among them. Every room is different, yet each with a similar low-key vibe and complimenting color palette. Rattan is a strong natural feature throughout the rooms, from the tall, standing lamps and ottomans, to the delicate cup holders that hide a bottle of Evian on the night table.

We found ourselves in a constant conundrum—wanting to explore the island but never wanting to leave the villa.

Seeing (Eden Roc) Red

Red may not be the first color that comes to mind when imagining St Barths, but it is the primary color of Eden Rock, a premier luxury resort that also owns about 100 villas dotted around the island. An Eden Rock villa will give you extra perks: pole position loungers at Nikki Beach, hard to get dinner reservations, delivery of your rental car to the villa, and daily maid service, to name a few.

An ‘Ultraluxe’ Eden Rock villa includes a dedicated butler and chef, which takes villa living to an entirely new level. Eden Rock red certainly equals access on this island, and access in St Barths can be critical depending on how much or how little you’d like to do.

Carla

The very first touch point of our trip was Carla, and up until the moment we departed, she was one of the highlights of our stay. Never without a smile, a kind word, a laugh, and a ‘with pleasure’ when asked to help, we could not have had the same trip without her.

Carla was born in Johannesburg, but raised in Italy. Her career in hospitality has taken her from Europe, to America, and back to Europe, before her current role at Eden Rock. She told us funny stories of playing Chip, from Chip and Dale, while working at the Disney cruise line. Her flawless French is mixed with a twinge of her native Italian and adds to her effervescent charm.

As I said to my husband early on, it was as if she anticipated our every need. In the gorgeous open plan of Ixfalia, she was somehow always there when needed, and magically disappeared when we didn’t.

Some joked it was going to be hard to go back to reality without Carla. What I later thought was that I wanted to go back to reality and channel a little bit of my ‘inner Carla’. Her genuine sense of kindness and her ability to deliver happiness was contagious. An extra beam of light in sunny St Barths.

The talented Ms. Virginie

The same goes for Virginie, our lovely French chef. Not only was every meal perfectly presented, both verbally and artistically, she was always smiling and happy to take requests. She shared photos of her adorable newborn son, a foodie in the making!

Breakfast each morning was a carb-oholic’s dream. Her grandmother’s brioche french toast was a true highlight, so delicate and warm, it would have been a sin to add syrup. Each morning I swore I wouldn’t indulge, yet each morning I did. The secret, she confided, was that the brioche was soaked overnight in cream. Vacation calories don’t count, right?

If you don’t have a sweet tooth, however, she had many other tricks up her sleeve: a homemade chia pudding topped with granola, platters of artfully presented fresh fruit, soft scrambled eggs with herbs and ham, and perfectly crisped bacon, to name a few.

Fresh juices: beet, green, and pineapple lined the table, as did grilled baguette drizzled with olive oil. Carla and Virginie seemed to have memorized each of our caffeine vices upon arrival and had cappuccinos or herbal teas brewing as we sat down.

Nikki Beach, St Barths

As with Carla, Virginie seemed to anticipate our every culinary need. On Sunday we were booked at Nikki Beach for brunch, a daytime pool club/restaurant that gains momentum as the day goes on.

Waiters dance with magnums of rosé on their shoulders, saxophonists perform on tabletops, and eventually, most of the room, young and old, is up and moving. The music imperceptibly ratchets up over time, so that you might find yourself struggling to have a conversation.

Knowing full well that we wouldn’t want a heavy meal later on as planned, Virginie suggested a homemade pizza night. After indulging at Nikki Beach, it was the perfect way to end our day. Every few minutes a new pizza emerged: veggie, pepperoni, four cheese, and truffle among them.

Virginie whipped up so many fantastic meals that we began to rethink our ‘in v. out’ food strategy. Her steak with homemade Bernaise sauce was divine, as was the decadent homemade chocolate chip cookie topped with ice cream.

We enjoyed a lunch of roast chicken with rosemary, quinoa salad, and baked cauliflower. It was a side dish that became a main dish: a full head of cauliflower that had been baked in spices for over two hours, then sliced table-side like a birthday cake. I am still waiting for the recipe, Virginie!

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St Barths: Beyond Ixfalia

No mega-resorts line the beachfront of St Barths, and only a handful of low-key, high-end hotels like Le Toiny and Eden Rock have been within the jet-set crosshairs for decades. There is certainly an unruffled movie star quality to the people. An air of white linen, and understated elegance that is as breezy and natural as the island itself. All within these 25 square miles seems to have more sunlight than is physically possible.

In v. Out, Le déjeuner on St Barths

We sacrificed villa time for a few noteworthy excursions. We headed to the understated beach restaurant at the glamorous Hotel Le Toiny. The property has been fully rebuilt since Irma and is nothing short of spectacular. The spare and wild coastline will have you imagining that you have the island to yourself.

The restaurant digs its feet (and tables!) firmly into the sand, no shoes are required, (or even allowed), as there is a wooden shelf to stack them as you arrive. But don’t be fooled, it is as upscale and decadent as a beach restaurant can be.

In v. Out, le dîner on St Barths

There is no shortage of dining options on the island, but getting a reservation is still a trial during the high season, so booking early is certainly the way to go. We opted for tiny L’Isola, a modern, Italian, boutique restaurant by Santa Monica chef, Fabrizio Bianconi.

L’Isola boldly dares to abide away from the beach and is tucked on the edge of St Barths’ capital, Gustavia. Despite its location, it draws a crowd that will have you standing three deep at the long, inviting bar, waiting for his inventive fare. The room is low-lit, yet the buzz is high, and you could imagine you are in Milan or NYC as easily as St Barths.

Beach life on St Barths

The rugged, rocky coastline of St Barths is possibly the most beautiful natural element it possesses. The black, porous, volcanic rocks lump together along Columbier Beach in an Instagrammers dream setting. In fact, there were more than a few young girls who made the backdrop their personal photo studio. Selfies for miles.

Columbier is not easily found, and it is either a 25-minute coastal hike or a boat to gain access, which makes the beach all the more private and exclusive feeling. Sailboats and yachts dot the bay, and goats with their kids roam the rocks. It is a 180-degree shift from extravagant Nikki Beach, yet both are worth a trip in their own right.

St Barths is always a good idea

To paraphrase Audrey Hepburn, there is very little reason not to go to St Barth’s. Whether you want to be hidden, be seen, or both/and, St Barths is one of the few Caribbean islands that has just about everything going for it. With the French twist, it also has the innate culture that some islands lack.

Where I failed in brevity, I made up for it in detail. The story wrote itself, didn’t it? It’s all in the pictures.

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Five reasons to get lost:

• The hottest and one of the most well-known venues in St Barths is Le Ti. But don’t come for the food! Le Ti is part boudoir, part cabaret, and is always completely off the charts.

• Shellona Beach at sundown is buzzy and relaxed. Grab a table in the sand, order a cocktail, and spend a few hours people-watching. Gorgeous women model clothes from the neighboring boutique, walking the beach like a catwalk.

• In-villa massages with ocean breezes are a great way to bridge the gap between day and night.

• Virginie’s overnight cream-soaked brioche. Worth another mention.

• Driving the iconic, colorful island mokes up and down the hills of St Barths. Equal parts are breathtaking and terrifying.

March 6, 2019

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