I am Lost and Found

Category: Stay in the Caribbean

In 1950, A Party Started At Eden Rock St. Barths. It’s Still Going.

I walk through the airport’s cool, frosted glass doors. Salt-tinged air warms my face. Out here, the party’s in full swing. People gather with glasses in hand. Bottles of Chassagne-Montrachet chill in buckets of ice at their feet. Bursts of laughter radiate from the well-heeled crowd as a rainbow assortment of Minis and Mokes whizzes behind them. It feels like happy hour on a breezy NYC rooftop, not airport arrivals.

I scan the crowd. Our villa manager is easy to spot. He’s wearing tell-tale Eden Rock red. Fred greets us as if we’re old friends. ‘Are you ready?’ he asks with a cheeky grin. It’s unclear what he means by ‘ready.’ But whatever it is, we unanimously agree that we are.

Eden Rock St. Barths—allons-y!

Eden Rock is Rooted in 1950s Glamour

Let’s back up a few decades to set the scene. In the early 1950s, French aviator and adventurer Rémy de Haenen built a hotel on a rocky promontory overlooking a secluded turquoise bay in St. Barths. Rémy dreamed his hotel would become a destination for the rich and famous. It didn’t take long for him to get his wish. Greta Garbo, Howard Hughes, and other celebrities soon christened red-roofed Eden Rock their Caribbean hideaway.

In 1995, Jane and David Matthews purchased Eden Rock from de Haenen. As the story goes, the Matthews (aka Pippa Middleton’s in-laws) sailed to the island and became immediately smitten. Furthering Rémy’s flair for all things fabulous, the Matthews added clifftop cottages and palatial suites, catapulting Eden Rock St. Barths into one of the world’s leading hotels.

Two decades later, the Matthews partnered with Oetker Collection to manage the property, further elevating its already high standards of luxury. Today, one could just as quickly spot a rockstar or an NFL quarterback sitting beside an aging politician or a teenage influencer.

Not a rock star? ‘So what?’ There’s room (and rooms) in St. Barths for all. But the glamour of this chic French island comes at a price—especially if the Eden Rock Hotel or one of its 150 private villas are involved.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

The Arrival

En route to our hilltop home away from home, a prop plane passes overhead. And by overhead, I mean I can practically touch it. We navigate a small roundabout where people gather with iPhones shooting video—a popular island activity. In the near distance, the Eden Rock Hotel comes into view. A departing plane is so close to the water it nearly takes the floppy hat off a sunbather.

There are many hotels on St. Barths with dramatic views. But only at Eden Rock can one watch charter planes arrive and depart from the comfort of a cushy sunlounger. Anywhere else, a hotel this close to the runway would be a dealbreaker vacation-wise. Leave it to the French to flip the script. The thrilling take-offs and landings are part of the island’s joie de vivre.

Gray Malin’s ‘The Arrival’

At 2,100 feet long, the runway on St. Barths is one of the world’s shortest, so only small planes can land. Therefore, most people (aside from those who fly private) connect through a neighboring island, usually St. Maarten or Puerto Rico.

To put an exclamation point on this long narrative about a short runway, fine-art photographer Gray Malin chose this very subject for his famous à la plage series. ‘The Arrival’ is one of his best-selling prints, no doubt adorning living room walls from Paris to LA.

The Eden Rock Bubble

It’s easy to get caught up in the Eden Rock bubble. Everyone in it looks so glamorous. Women wear gem-toned Missoni kaftans with oversized woven hats. Men don crisp white linen shirts, pastel-colored shorts, and Italian espadrilles. Their sunkissed kids trail behind them on their way to the Sand Bar for truffle-topped pizzas. It’s island eye candy all around.

The Eden Rock bubble has its own boutique. Did you forget that cute boho dress you planned to wear to Bagatelle? It’s Zimmermann’s crochet wrap to the rescue. Suddenly desperate for a tote that mirrors the bay’s exact shade of blue? Goyard’s Turquoise St. Louis bag with matching beach towel has you covered.

Blue, white, and red may be sewn into the island’s fabric, but the labels are decidedly Off White and Orlebar Brown.

Eden Rock St. Barths, The Hotel

In September 2017, the Eden Rock Hotel suffered extensive damage from Hurricane Irma. By 2019, it had reopened its welcoming red doors to guests eager to reclaim paradise. Eden Rock returned to its former glory with 37 rooms, a Jean-George Vongerichten restaurant, a new world-class spa, and an attentive and absurdly attractive staff of over 200 strong.

Other hotel highlights include the British-Colonial-style Rémy Bar, on-beach spa treatments, professional sunscreen attendants (not a typo), and a roving frosé trolley. Because mon dieu!—at these rates, no one should have to leave their sunlounger for a glass of Whispering Angel.

PC: Eden Rock

Incredibly, all 37 rooms and suites at Eden Rock are individually curated. Jane Matthews lovingly designed them, showcasing local and international artwork at every turn. Some rooms are on the beach, and others are on its famous rocks. All are spectacular.

Inspired by a schooner, the Captain’s Room has brass portholes, maritime leather seats, and a private pool. Spencer’s Room is perched on the face of the rock and pays homage to Africa with eclectic carved wooden masks, woven rugs, and a regal four-poster bed. Then there’s the Pippa, the Garbo, and the Howard Hughes. How to choose? A champagne problem, indeed.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

PC: Eden Rock

Villa Like a Rockstar

There isn’t a superlative that hasn’t been used to describe the Eden Rock Hotel. This puts me at a loss for words to describe their most extravagant villa. At 17,000 square feet, Villa Rockstar is called ‘a two hundred million dollar yacht on land.’ Between us, that isn’t much of a selling point. I’d rent a yacht if I wanted to be on a yacht. But who am I to question the marketing team of one of the leading hotels in the world?

Villa Rockstar has everything you could ever need and just as many things you don’t. The six-bedroom villa’s secluded location lies behind 10-foot walls on St. Jean’s beach. One of the many oversized bathrooms is circular and tiled in (wait for it) white gold. Rockstar has a dedicated chef and butler service around the clock, a 20-meter heated pool, and a jacuzzi. According to the website, Villa Rockstar also has a ‘basement full of surprises.’

PC: Eden Rock

Other amenities include daily breakfast delivery, a fully-equipped techno-gym, a multi-car-filled garage, a private business office, and a custom-designed Italian kitchen. While I don’t know who is driving, cooking, working, or exercising when they visit Villa Rockstar, I would trade it all for breakfast delivery. The brioche at Eden Rock is no joke.

The website also ensures guests that ‘privacy and discretion’ are Villa Rockstar’s watch words. Is that the same thing as safe words? Safe words aren’t just for the bedroom anymore. Does this have anything to do with the surprises in the basement? Grab eleven of your closest friends and party like a rockstar at Villa Rockstar. When you discover what’s hidden in the basement, please share.

Villa Neo and Eden Rock’s 148 Other Villas

Villa Rockstar notwithstanding, Eden Rock has private villas across the island for (nearly) all budgets. Eden Rock conveniently divides its villa portfolio among four categories: Classic, Deluxe, Prestige, and Ultraluxe. If you think classic is code for inexpensive, you’d be incorrect. Nothing is inexpensive on St. Barths. Instead, think of classic as code for least expensive. And even then, prepare for sticker shock.

Neo is a six-bedroom supermodern ultraluxe villa. It has glass staircases, glass walls, and glass sculptures. The pool spans the length of the villa and towers high above St. Jean’s beach. Neo’s outside space is sprawling with double-bed sunloungers and wide umbrellas.

Some bathrooms have deep soaking tubs (alas, none tiled in white gold) and spacious balconies. The kitchen is not ornamental. Our chef, Eric, whips up fabulous French meals there every day. That we’re spoiled is evident.

Breakfast is a daily delight—and more decadent with each passing morning. Airy crépes on Monday, Belgian waffles with berries on Tuesday, fluffy frittatas on Wednesday… you get the idea. That every meal Eric creates comes with baguettes, brioches, and croissants does nothing to help our waistlines. We waddle to the Eden Rock boutique to buy bigger kaftans.

After a week of fantastic in-villa meals, Eric tells us he’s never seen a group consume so much bread. We pat our bellies proudly and take it as a compliment—though I’m pretty sure it isn’t.

Dining Beyond the Bubble

With all the French carbohydrates one could desire, you may question why we’d ever leave the ~~bubble~~ villa. St. Barths has a world-class dining scene, which always includes incredible people-watching in chic settings with DJs and live music. So get out, we do, and it’s worth it.

Three standout meals are Sella, Bagatelle, and Nikki Beach. Each restaurant incorporates a party element to accompany the food and wine. At Sella, Jerusalem-born, Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit serves Middle Eastern cuisine in an amber-infused, low-lit waterfront setting. The DJ’s hypnotic Arabic music fuses intricate melodies and rhythmic patterns with charred meats and vegetables. We all love it.

Bagatelle starts typically enough—with a convivial dinner party vibe. But by the time the appetizers arrived, the DJ had ratcheted up the music so loud that I couldn’t hear my husband. As the entrées appeared, guests and servers started dancing.

Then, models began weaving around the dancers in cute boho dresses. Champagne corks spiral through the air. John Legend is singing Happy Birthday. Bagatelle is not a restaurant; it’s a bar mitzvah.

Just Another Sunday at Nikki Beach

Nikki Beach deserves a post of its own. And maybe one day, when strapped for content, I’ll write it. Until then, believe me when I say a trip to St. Barths without Sunday brunch at Nikki Beach is a big mistake.

Sundays at Nikki Beach are legendary in St. Barths. It’s a Caribbean darty (to use my least favorite word but most favorite concept). The great thing about a daytime party is that you can have fun whether you are 8, 18, or 88. And at Nikki Beach, ‘fun’ could mean a sparkler-topped bottle of Veuve Clicquot, a hot French saxophonist dancing on your table, or a gladiator towing a sorority girl around on a chariot. On our Sunday, fun included all of the above.

Colorful sushi boats filled with seared ahi tuna, red caviar-topped salmon, and pink ebi sail around the room. As the music tempo increases, the crowd rises to the occasion (literally and figuratively). People kick off their shoes and dance like no one is watching. Although, of course, everyone is. We order a bottle of Dom and go for it. Nikki Beach is the place to splurge on the most splurge-worthy island in the Caribbean.

“Are You Ready?”

I think back to Fred’s cheeky grin seven days ago. I’m sure he knew we’d need a vacation to recover from our vacation. I’m sure he knew we’d have baguette withdrawal, suffer from severe sleep deficit, and have hearing loss in one, if not both, ears. After so many years tending to guests’ needs in the Eden Rock bubble, he’s seen it all. No wonder he was smiling.

At the airport, newly arriving guests exit as I enter the frosted glass doors. Salt-tinged air warms their faces. I take one last glance behind me. I see signature Eden Rock red shirts and bottles of ice-cold Chablis. Glasses clink. Laughter fills the air. A rainbow assortment of Minis and Mokes whizzes by on the street.

In St. Barth’s, the party never ends.

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April 5, 2024
From Jamaica, With Love: The Goldeneye Resort Review

Our van takes a sharp left from the busy road through a small gap in an unassuming stone wall. Twisted tree limbs dangle over it and I have the urge to hold my breath as we squeeze through. I peer out the rear window, half expecting the gap to close up and disappear into the overgrowth. I’ve arrived at Goldeneye in Jamaica, the very place where James Bond was brought to life by author Ian Fleming. Although I’ve been on the grounds all of seven seconds, its magnetic pull is undeniable.

It’s another world in here.

Why Jamaica?

We choose Jamaica for utilitarian and unromantic reasons. It’s less than two weeks until the avalanche otherwise known as Christmas arrives and Jamaica is a non-stop three-hour flight from DC. Perfect. I need a quick getaway to find my holiday spirit. I hope it fits in my carry-on. I’ve overpacked as usual.

Our driver is easy to spot, holding up a small sign that reads ‘Goldeneye’. I smile, imagining myself beachside within the hour. ‘How far to the resort?’, I ask, ready to get out of my bulky plane clothes. ‘Two hours’, he replies with a wide grin. I throw my head back and laugh, having heard this joke before. ‘No, really.’ I say, ‘How far?’ Still smiling, but not joking, he repeats, ‘Two hours.’ Ugh.

But, once we pass the mega, all-inclusive resorts of Montego Bay, the ride is a snap. I take mental notes as we traverse the northern coast of the island: uninterrupted views of the Caribbean Sea, colorful rowboats in shallow salt marshes, hot pink oleander hovering over narrow medians, and banded palm trees lining crescent coves.

Before I know it, two hours have elapsed. As a bonus, I’m completely relaxed.

Our van takes a sharp left… oh wait, you know that part. Moving on.

Goldeneye, Jamaica: A Brief History

Super fans of 007 will likely know that Jamaica is where Ian Fleming wrote his famous British spy series. In 1946, Mr. Fleming, a former British soldier himself, built Goldeneye, a villa perched majestically on a sea cliff with expansive Caribbean views. At one time, Goldeneye was the social epicenter of the island, with guests like Truman Capote, Princess Margaret, and Errol Flynn coming and going throughout the year.

Twelve years after Mr. Fleming died, reggae pioneer Bob Marley bought the estate. Shortly thereafter, he sold it to Island Records founder, Chris Blackwell who added 25 acres to the original 15 and converted the property into a small hotel.

James Bond is the most charming secret agent in history. And while I’m a big fan, I’ll admit now that I was a tad nervous about the Bond theme being too, well, theme-y. It’s not. There are subtle nods, like the License to Chill cocktail I enjoyed at Button Beach every day. But, that’s about it. So, if you’re a 007 enthusiast hoping for a Bond-themed lazy river or paragliding excursion, manage your expectations.

Goldeneye hasn’t lost its original allure. Celebrities, models, and rock stars alike visit today—just not the week we are there, unfortunately.

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Rooms With A View, At Goldeneye

Goldeneye has three types of rooms; beach villa, lagoon cottage, or beach hut. Despite being within such close proximity to one another, they are very different. As the name implies, beach villas are on the beach. Unlike other resorts where a beach villa might mean you have to walk (gasp!) five minutes to said beach, Goldeneye’s beach villas are located in the sand, just steps from the water.

Let me flog my point. I pack four pairs of shoes, including the sneakers (or trainers, this is a former English colony!) I wore on the plane. Once at the resort, I don’t wear shoes. Not to dinner, not to the spa. Not at all. I’m pretty much walking on sand the entire time I’m there. If Goldeneye doesn’t define ‘barefoot luxury’ I’ll eat my shoe (I mean, trainer).

Our villa has a wide-covered veranda and two beach loungers on either side of a large umbrella facing Low Cay. The decor is beach shack fancy, Jamaica-style. Aka rustic. Our villa has dark wood accents, bright batik-dyed colored fabrics, a claw-footed tub, and a refreshing outdoor shower.

A full kitchen we never use has a Smeg refrigerator that keeps our Red Stripe and bottled water cold. The gauzy netting above our king bed isn’t decorative, which worries me. That I wake up bite-free each morning is a mosquito miracle.

The Blue Lagoon (Cottages)

The lagoon cottages would be my second choice of accommodation at Goldeneye. Perched directly on the calm, warm lagoon, they’re unlike anything I’ve seen in the Caribbean. The lagoon people can swim from their private docks to search for giant sea turtles lurking below the surface. They can tie their kayaks up to the dock after a late afternoon paddle.

It all feels very Blue Lagoon circa 1980—sans Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins. I’ll bet they’ve been past guests. I make a note to check the guest book.

Hut Life

Goldeneye’s beach huts are a world unto themselves, clustered between Button Beach and Snorkeler’s Cove. Contrary to the name, beach huts are not on the beach. They are huts near the beach. It’s an important nuance. Some huts are raised ten feet from the ground and overlook flower-filled gardens and paths. Others have private verandas and outdoor showers.

According to Goldeneye’s website, hut life is about casualness and simplicity. It states that the freestanding huts are special because of the louvered windows that control the light and breeze. To me, this is code for no air conditioning. But, if you’d like a basic, primal, louvered window wooden cabana near the beach, consider hut life.

Pretty windows notwithstanding, if we ever wondered if we were hut people, the huts at Goldeneye assure us we aren’t.

Simple Luxury, at Goldeneye

Our waiter does a little jig between the tables, singing along with the music, a wide smile on his face. The Field Spa hut dangles over the lagoon’s edge and I enjoy a warm foot bath on the veranda while awaiting my massage. Johnny cakes for breakfast and homemade plantain chips with snapper ceviche for lunch. The simple luxury of Goldeneye is in the details.

Sea turtle nests are found around the beach villas. Wooden signs acknowledge their locations and lighting is kept intentionally low to accommodate them. The benefit of tiki torches being our sole source of light means we can see constellations overhead with such clarity I walk into more than one palm tree while stargazing.

This could be 1964, 1974, or 2004. I doubt much has changed at Goldeneye in Jamaica over the decades. It’s no-frills, simple luxuries like these that have guests returning again and again.

To Do, Or Not To Do

At Goldeneye, I do practically nothing. If there was ever a place to do nothing, this is it. I don’t leave the property. Aside from eating, drinking, and sleeping, here’s a list of what I did:

I read The Heaven and Earth Grocery Store, by James McBride. If you haven’t read it you are missing out on some seriously fine writing. No offense, Mr. Fleming.

I kayaked around the lagoon. It was so serene and peaceful that I did it twice.

I had a sports massage. This wasn’t serene or peaceful. My mistake—I should have chosen better.

In four days, my step counter totals under 5,000 steps. It probably thought I was dead.

Who Goes to Goldeneye?

Aside from all the celebrities we don’t see at Goldeneye, the resort caters to normal people who want complete seclusion in a lush, tropical setting. There’s plenty for kids to do, snorkeling, swimming, and an array of other water sports like sailing and SUP. But once the sun goes down, it’s pin-drop quiet. While that’s appealing to me, who believes a good night’s sleep is a gift from the gods, kids might disagree.

We come to Goldeneye seeking escape, not adventure. Goldeneye delivers. Natural beauty is everywhere. The Caribbean Sea, turquoise lagoons, fiery sunsets, and thousands of trees. We see trees in every stage of life, from newly planted plum, almond, and mango trees to mature orange, coconut, and apple trees.

Many of these trees have signs displaying who donated them. Goldeneye’s innovative plant-a-tree program means guests can tell friends at home that their mango tree grows beside Kate Moss’s coconut one. Your bragging rights are helping to sustain the planet. One thousand dollars well spent.

Goldeneye: The Antidote to the Mega-Resort

Ian Fleming may be long gone, but his creativity lives on in this picturesque and remote coastal part of Jamaica. It’s all too easy to see how one can be inspired here. The gentle, lapping waves, mesmerizing sea turtles, starry nights, and whistling birds are just a few of the reasons Goldeneye Resort is so captivating.

Forget what you think you know about Jamaica. It’s not only mega-resorts with water slides, pirate-themed water parks, and ‘frozé all day’. Not that there’s anything wrong with frozé. Actually, everything is wrong with frozé, but that’s an opinion for a future post.

It’s another world behind the stone walls of Goldeneye. Channel your inner secret agent. The one who needs to relax after saving the world from total destruction (or trying to get your son into college, etc). Find a reason to go barefoot and fancy-free for a few days. Bring a book. Consider Casino Royale—the very one that kickstarted Fleming’s famous series.

Or do nothing at all.

See what all the fuss is about at Goldeneye. Click here!

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December 15, 2023
Sugar Beach is The Caribbean’s Ultimate Family Friendly Resort

Sugar Beach, St. Lucia—When my family heads off on a beach holiday, some of us want to do everything, and some of us want to do nothing. Usually, I want to do a little bit of something, then a whole lot of nothing. As it turns out, there is a place for families like us where you can do absolutely everything, or absolutely nothing, at exactly the same time. Sugar Beach, St. Lucia, seemed to find that fantastic balance of being a family-friendly resort while not feeling like it was designed for kids.

Between the Pitons at Sugar Beach in St. Lucia

The Pitons, a duo of volcanic spires, are St. Lucia’s main event. I’d happily debate anyone who says otherwise. It’s the unique selling point of Viceroy’s Sugar Beach and St. Lucia, as far as I am concerned. Sitting at 2,618ft and 2,438ft, respectively, both Gros and Petit Pitons are the natural defining features of this lush paradise.

St. Lucia’s Sugar Beach won the Caribbean lottery on location, being one of only two resorts that rest between them and the only one that is beachfront. They have been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and at any given time of day, one piton is lit to perfection, while the other lies in dramatic shadow. Both are awe-inspiring and magnificent around the clock. They are so highly regarded that the local beer is named ‘Piton’ in their honor.

Sugar Beach’s villas and cottages

Contrary to our usual travel mantra of never repeating a trip, this was our second time to St. Lucia and Sugar Beach. In 2014, we opted for a white clapboard colonial cottage neatly camouflaged in the hills overlooking the sea.

With its private plunge pool, Rainforest Spa, and on-demand golf cart access, this Viceroy resort was the kind of hideaway we sought. Cascading flora and fauna nearly swallowed the entrance, and it boasted majestic views of the Pitons—nature enveloped us from all angles.

This time, we had a few more people in tow and opted for a beachfront villa. In contrast to the intimate cottage, it was wide-open and airy, had two pools and a hot tub, and sat directly on the beach.

The long, infinity pool paralleled the sea, hovering just high enough above it so it looked like we were swimming laps alongside the horizon. The villa’s expansive patio had front-row seats to sunsets, and during our five nights, each was more spectacular than the one before.

We found it so hard to tear ourselves away that on our last evening; we decided to have dinner on the patio and settle in for the night. The four poster beds had gauzy mosquito netting that gave the rooms a dreamy feeling. White-on-white, with dark wooden colonial touches, added to the breezy vibe of the villa.

Every window faced the ocean, where we watched the chartered catamarans and privately owned yachts slowly drift in and out of the harbor—an unvarnished portrait of the ever-changing seascape being painted before our eyes.

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Colonial Vibes at Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

Sugar Beach sits on a staggering 100 acres of rainforest on what was once a thriving sugar plantation dating back to the 18th century. Today, plantation architecture characterizes the villas from the inside out. Common areas are accented by potted plants that border the exterior and inner walkways. Overgrown and lush, tropical flowers appear around every corner.

The villa’s loungy outdoor seating surrounds the pool, and doors are wide open to the sea from the bedrooms and living spaces. The kitchen was stocked with wine, fruit, and bottled water. If something was needed, it was just a phone call to our villa butler to help.

Resort Life at Sugar Beach

Our villa was a short walk to the main part of the resort, which was a nice perk as the kids could easily come and go as they pleased. The Pitons that bookend the bay make it a finite wonderland for roaming kids. The main house has multiple restaurants, a kid’s club, a sushi bar, swinging daybeds, and touches of surprisingly interesting artwork.

Sugar Beach takes hotel artwork to another level, and I wondered who curated it. Notably, too, was that the artwork seemed to stand the test of time. It is not an easy feat in a world constantly reinventing itself.

Culinary delights at Sugar Beach

There are multiple restaurants and bars at Sugar Beach, each having its slice of Caribbean character. Restaurant Bayside is open-air and (as named) steps from the bay. Fresh tuna, Mahi Mahi, wood-fired pizzas, and multiple vegetarian options made everyone in our group happy.

We surprised ourselves with more than one dinner at The Cane Bar. The Cane Bar is nearly hidden behind an imposing black door off the art gallery. Asian in inspiration, with the exciting addition of being known for its rum drinks.

It was a much-needed change up from the Caribbean-influenced menus. Fresh tuna, sea bream, and sea bass, all with pretty presentations, had us coming back. The decor is classic in black and white, yet somehow made warmer by the avant-garde sculpture and unusual multi-media pieces.

While my only wish is that it also had outdoor seating, it was a hit with our entire group. As a bonus, a billiards room is tucked in the back—a place to relax with a cocktail post-dinner and hide from our kids.

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Sugar Beach’s atypical breakfast buffet

Breakfast is served on another veranda, above a sweeping flight of stairs and past a large, beautiful pond. I’m not much for breakfast, but the Sugar Beach interpretation makes anyone rethink the run-of-the-mill buffet. My kids are still talking about it as a highlight months later. Fresh yogurts, grains, fruits, cereals. Various juices, like watermelon, guava, and papaya, sat chilling in glass pitchers.

There are at least five different types of freshly baked bread. The T80 sourdough became an immediate obsession among us. We may or may not have ‘borrowed’ a few loaves the morning we left the resort for our sailing trip. Made-to-order smoothies and enough cow’s milk alternatives to make any lactose-free guest swoon. Breakfast buffet, perfected.

The Ultimate Hike at Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

An experiment in forgetting about pain, climbing Gros Piton was far more challenging than I remembered from 2014. Perhaps being older, less fit, and having a moody teenager in tow added to the drama.

We started at sea level, which added about 30 minutes to the climb. Big mistake. We were in full sweat when we reached the village entrance. Annoying perky hikers were beginning their ascent.

Our guides kept to our pace, which was a challenge as our group was scattered all over the mountain. I stayed far enough ahead of my daughter so that I couldn’t hear her complaints. And behind my husband, son, and friend, who high-tailed it to the summit at breakneck speed.

There are two summit viewpoints, and after 1 1/2 hours or so, we reached the first. If I had to do it again, I’d skip the first summit and go directly to the next one. It was far prettier and made the blood, sweat, and tears more worthwhile. I will even go as far as to say that the mid-mountain summit is just as breathtaking. It stares directly toward Petit Piton (which, confusingly, is more challenging to climb than Gros Piton).

My quads were on fire for the remainder of the day (and the next). I counted it as my ‘something’ for the trip. Then, I spent the next four days congratulating myself for having earned four days of ‘nothing.’ My daughter still complains about the hike regularly.

Click here for details: A Guided Gros Piton hike with the best views of St Lucia!

Wander or Lounge? Both, naturally.

There’s no end to activities available at a family-friendly spot like Sugar Beach. Among them are waterskiing, scuba, snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, tennis, the Rainforest Spa, and tubing. My favorite? On the beach, under a shaggy, golden, thatched umbrella with an order of shrimp tacos. From there, I could watch the kids waterski or jump from the circular water loungers that dotted the swimming area.

For all the activities on hand, though, it never felt like an over-the-top, Disney-fied experience. At times, it had a homespun quality—kids left to play a game of pick-up soccer or to run with wild abandon on the beach.

The Rainforest Spa at Viceroy’s Sugar Beach

Even in a setting as relaxed as St. Lucia, there are always ways to get a little more relaxed. The Rainforest Spa at Sugar Beach is in a class of its own. A long, bamboo-lined, serpentine corridor dotted with rattan-covered lanterns leads to the spa reception—allowing just the right amount of romantic light through its slats.

The massage huts are scattered around, hovering in the trees, with sunlight filtering softly between the leaves. I felt like I had happened upon a primitive island—an ethereal start to an hour of relaxation.

St. Lucia, unfiltered

In an overly filtered world (and I love my filters as much as the next Instagrammer), I will say that I draw the line at sunsets. If I can’t capture the sunset without using one, then it just isn’t worth capturing.

Luckily, St. Lucian sunsets required no filters. The nightly drama, the changing kaleidoscope of colors, was one of the few things everyone in my family could sit still for.

Often, the simplest things bring the most happiness. Even if stripped of boats, gear, toys, and massage tables, Sugar Beach St. Lucia would still overdeliver. What lies between the pitons is a timeless natural wonder, enhanced by the warm-hearted staff that made us feel wholly welcome.

On our final night, a fierce game of beach cricket ensued. It was one of my favorite lasting memories of the trip. To paraphrase Winston Churchill, “All the great things are simple.” I couldn’t agree more.

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December 1, 2023
St Barths is always a good idea

If a picture is worth a thousand words, then this post will virtually write itself. With boundless blue skies, and streaks of white clouds that read more watercolor than a photograph, St Barths is one unending photo op after another. To paraphrase a famous quote “St Barths is always a good idea.” I couldn’t agree more.

St. Barthélemy

Not more than a speck in the West Indies, St Barths was discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493. With a population that hovers near 10,000, French-speaking and French-influenced, this Caribbean island makes up for its small size with a grand personality. Luxury and boutique shopping, swanky restaurants, superfine, white sandy beaches, and trendy nightclubs only begin to scratch the surface of what’s on offer.

However, this post is not about St Barths, per se. It is about an extraordinary villa that just happens to be on this extraordinary island. A volcanic island that is surrounded by shallow reefs, and shades of blue water that are—to use a common cliché—indescribable. Attempting brevity, and allowing the story to unfold through the photographs, I will try my best not to overhype.

Although I won’t promise.

Villa Ixfalia

Winding up the steep, narrow streets towards the villa, streets that seem to defy the laws of traction and gravity, was an adventure in itself. A sharp inhale at each curve, wondering if a truck or car was careening toward us from the opposite direction.

St Barths has made a miraculous recovery since Irma, but there is much activity and building going on, which makes the roads even more precarious. I allow myself to exhale—we have arrived. It is the highest point on this lush, green north-facing hillside. Villa Ixfalia.

Enter at your own risk

The overgrown jungle-like entrance to Ixfalia is deceptive. Perhaps this is intentional. A way to create even greater impact—like the opening of the velvet curtain at showtime, or the unveiling of a piece of art. Walk along the wooden planked path, through the wide, glass threshold, and into the open-air living space. Twenty or more rattan lampshades lazily sway above you. Varying in shapes and sizes, and dangling at varying heights, they create a mesmerizing display.

However, as beautiful as the lights may be, chances are you won’t notice them, as your eyes are reflectively drawn forward.

Cue the panorama—the only thing that lies between you and the sea is a glacier-blue infinity pool. A pool that will make you feel like you are swimming in the sky.

Villa life at Ixfalia

Ixfalia is perched several hundred feet in the air, majestically overlooking St Jean Beach and the iconic red-roof-topped Eden Rock Hotel. The blurring of indoor and outdoor living at the villa is reinforced at every turn. Rooms are wide open to the sea in nearly every direction, with modern, sheer shades that can be electronically maneuvered when needed.

There is surround sound music that can be accessed through your personal Sonos. Don’t have a St Barths playlist? No worries, as there are a few pre-made on hand. We immediately plugged in, then jumped from daytime pool party to pre-dinner lounge party, to post-dinner dance party—everyone a DJ with competing playlists.

Chasing the sun in St Barths

As with any well-designed villa, there are multiple places to relax, have cocktails, or disappear with a good book.

Tiered patio areas offered large, soft, double-wide sun loungers. It became a daily game of leapfrog, as we lost the sun over the hillside and moved from one sunny tier to another.

Once the last drop light gave out, we prepared ourselves for sunset with spicy margueritas. We then watched the beautiful streaks of color, oranges, and purples, crisscross the sky in front of us.

At Ixfalia, It’s all in the details

Each of the four bedrooms at Ixfalia is designed in soft woods tones and natural textiles. A study in white, various shades blending and melding. Driftwood is used generously throughout the property, both in elegant, organic ways, as well as in functional ways.

A driftwood seating area doubles as art from afar, a large entanglement of wood is perfectly placed on an otherwise blank wall. It is the opposite of glitzy ornamental opulence; there are natural finishes vs. gold-plated ones. Sandstone, sand, and shells rather than gemstones, mirrors, and baubles.

Ixfalia Masterd the villa in St Barths

The master bedroom is slightly separated from the main villa, facing the sweeping sea views — with a magnificent rock formation framed behind it. Among its many amenities, it boasts an enormous bathroom, complete with a stand-alone tub and open-plan rain shower.

The walk-in closet is so large, Stella McCartney could organize her next fashion show from it with room to spare. The king bed is centered and faces the floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors that lead to the pool, and then onwards to the sea. Again, you feel like you are miles above the world, staring straight into the sky.

Found objects

The other rooms are sea-facing as well, some with private outdoor showers, all with flat-screen Apple TVs, and found objects on display. Bleached animal skulls, organic sculptures, gigantic white shells, and beadwork, among them. Every room is different, yet each with a similar low-key vibe and complimenting color palette. Rattan is a strong natural feature throughout the rooms, from the tall, standing lamps and ottomans, to the delicate cup holders that hide a bottle of Evian on the night table.

We found ourselves in a constant conundrum—wanting to explore the island but never wanting to leave the villa.

Seeing (Eden Roc) Red

Red may not be the first color that comes to mind when imagining St Barths, but it is the primary color of Eden Rock, a premier luxury resort that also owns about 100 villas dotted around the island. An Eden Rock villa will give you extra perks: pole position loungers at Nikki Beach, hard to get dinner reservations, delivery of your rental car to the villa, and daily maid service, to name a few.

An ‘Ultraluxe’ Eden Rock villa includes a dedicated butler and chef, which takes villa living to an entirely new level. Eden Rock red certainly equals access on this island, and access in St Barths can be critical depending on how much or how little you’d like to do.

Carla

The very first touch point of our trip was Carla, and up until the moment we departed, she was one of the highlights of our stay. Never without a smile, a kind word, a laugh, and a ‘with pleasure’ when asked to help, we could not have had the same trip without her.

Carla was born in Johannesburg, but raised in Italy. Her career in hospitality has taken her from Europe, to America, and back to Europe, before her current role at Eden Rock. She told us funny stories of playing Chip, from Chip and Dale, while working at the Disney cruise line. Her flawless French is mixed with a twinge of her native Italian and adds to her effervescent charm.

As I said to my husband early on, it was as if she anticipated our every need. In the gorgeous open plan of Ixfalia, she was somehow always there when needed, and magically disappeared when we didn’t.

Some joked it was going to be hard to go back to reality without Carla. What I later thought was that I wanted to go back to reality and channel a little bit of my ‘inner Carla’. Her genuine sense of kindness and her ability to deliver happiness was contagious. An extra beam of light in sunny St Barths.

The talented Ms. Virginie

The same goes for Virginie, our lovely French chef. Not only was every meal perfectly presented, both verbally and artistically, she was always smiling and happy to take requests. She shared photos of her adorable newborn son, a foodie in the making!

Breakfast each morning was a carb-oholic’s dream. Her grandmother’s brioche french toast was a true highlight, so delicate and warm, it would have been a sin to add syrup. Each morning I swore I wouldn’t indulge, yet each morning I did. The secret, she confided, was that the brioche was soaked overnight in cream. Vacation calories don’t count, right?

If you don’t have a sweet tooth, however, she had many other tricks up her sleeve: a homemade chia pudding topped with granola, platters of artfully presented fresh fruit, soft scrambled eggs with herbs and ham, and perfectly crisped bacon, to name a few.

Fresh juices: beet, green, and pineapple lined the table, as did grilled baguette drizzled with olive oil. Carla and Virginie seemed to have memorized each of our caffeine vices upon arrival and had cappuccinos or herbal teas brewing as we sat down.

Nikki Beach, St Barths

As with Carla, Virginie seemed to anticipate our every culinary need. On Sunday we were booked at Nikki Beach for brunch, a daytime pool club/restaurant that gains momentum as the day goes on.

Waiters dance with magnums of rosé on their shoulders, saxophonists perform on tabletops, and eventually, most of the room, young and old, is up and moving. The music imperceptibly ratchets up over time, so that you might find yourself struggling to have a conversation.

Knowing full well that we wouldn’t want a heavy meal later on as planned, Virginie suggested a homemade pizza night. After indulging at Nikki Beach, it was the perfect way to end our day. Every few minutes a new pizza emerged: veggie, pepperoni, four cheese, and truffle among them.

Virginie whipped up so many fantastic meals that we began to rethink our ‘in v. out’ food strategy. Her steak with homemade Bernaise sauce was divine, as was the decadent homemade chocolate chip cookie topped with ice cream.

We enjoyed a lunch of roast chicken with rosemary, quinoa salad, and baked cauliflower. It was a side dish that became a main dish: a full head of cauliflower that had been baked in spices for over two hours, then sliced table-side like a birthday cake. I am still waiting for the recipe, Virginie!

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St Barths: Beyond Ixfalia

No mega-resorts line the beachfront of St Barths, and only a handful of low-key, high-end hotels like Le Toiny and Eden Rock have been within the jet-set crosshairs for decades. There is certainly an unruffled movie star quality to the people. An air of white linen, and understated elegance that is as breezy and natural as the island itself. All within these 25 square miles seems to have more sunlight than is physically possible.

In v. Out, Le déjeuner on St Barths

We sacrificed villa time for a few noteworthy excursions. We headed to the understated beach restaurant at the glamorous Hotel Le Toiny. The property has been fully rebuilt since Irma and is nothing short of spectacular. The spare and wild coastline will have you imagining that you have the island to yourself.

The restaurant digs its feet (and tables!) firmly into the sand, no shoes are required, (or even allowed), as there is a wooden shelf to stack them as you arrive. But don’t be fooled, it is as upscale and decadent as a beach restaurant can be.

In v. Out, le dîner on St Barths

There is no shortage of dining options on the island, but getting a reservation is still a trial during the high season, so booking early is certainly the way to go. We opted for tiny L’Isola, a modern, Italian, boutique restaurant by Santa Monica chef, Fabrizio Bianconi.

L’Isola boldly dares to abide away from the beach and is tucked on the edge of St Barths’ capital, Gustavia. Despite its location, it draws a crowd that will have you standing three deep at the long, inviting bar, waiting for his inventive fare. The room is low-lit, yet the buzz is high, and you could imagine you are in Milan or NYC as easily as St Barths.

Beach life on St Barths

The rugged, rocky coastline of St Barths is possibly the most beautiful natural element it possesses. The black, porous, volcanic rocks lump together along Columbier Beach in an Instagrammers dream setting. In fact, there were more than a few young girls who made the backdrop their personal photo studio. Selfies for miles.

Columbier is not easily found, and it is either a 25-minute coastal hike or a boat to gain access, which makes the beach all the more private and exclusive feeling. Sailboats and yachts dot the bay, and goats with their kids roam the rocks. It is a 180-degree shift from extravagant Nikki Beach, yet both are worth a trip in their own right.

St Barths is always a good idea

To paraphrase Audrey Hepburn, there is very little reason not to go to St Barth’s. Whether you want to be hidden, be seen, or both/and, St Barths is one of the few Caribbean islands that has just about everything going for it. With the French twist, it also has the innate culture that some islands lack.

Where I failed in brevity, I made up for it in detail. The story wrote itself, didn’t it? It’s all in the pictures.

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Five reasons to get lost:

• The hottest and one of the most well-known venues in St Barths is Le Ti. But don’t come for the food! Le Ti is part boudoir, part cabaret, and is always completely off the charts.

• Shellona Beach at sundown is buzzy and relaxed. Grab a table in the sand, order a cocktail, and spend a few hours people-watching. Gorgeous women model clothes from the neighboring boutique, walking the beach like a catwalk.

• In-villa massages with ocean breezes are a great way to bridge the gap between day and night.

• Virginie’s overnight cream-soaked brioche. Worth another mention.

• Driving the iconic, colorful island mokes up and down the hills of St Barths. Equal parts are breathtaking and terrifying.

March 6, 2019

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