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A Local’s Guide: These Places Will Make You Fall for Stowe

In 30 days, I’m moving to Stowe.

If my teenage self knew she’d one day be living in rural Vermont, she’d laugh that layer of AquaNet right off her teased head. That girl wasn’t destined for the slow life. She wouldn’t be caught dead in Muck Boots slogging along snow-covered roads. She’d be clicking down city sidewalks in stilettos.

Forty years later, that girl is a middle-aged woman. Now I’m the one laughing. Part giddiness and part nervous energy. How did I get here? What am I going to do in Vermont? And where can I get a cute pair of Muck Boots?

I’ve traveled to Stowe, Vermont, since childhood. But I’m just as surprised as that sassy teenager I’m choosing to live there permanently. Big cities have defined my decades—the aforementioned Manhattan sidewalks in my 20s and early 30s. Raising a family in Tokyo in my 40s, and then punching through 50 in the political maelstrom of DC. Each of these places has surpassed expectations. I have no doubt Stowe will follow suit.

Ok, maybe a little bit of doubt.

What I don’t doubt is the beauty of Vermont, and Stowe in particular. Stowe encapsulates New England charm. Don’t believe me? Ask any of the nearly one million visitors who flock to it each year. There are plenty of reasons to fall for Stowe. For those who don’t already know its wonders, allow me to introduce you.

I’ll start with Fall.

A Stowe for All Seasons

Stowe is a year-round destination. In winter, Mt. Mansfield dominates, with 116 runs over 485 acres of skiable terrain. The mountain appeals to all ski skill levels, and has enough snowshoeing trails and non-skiing activities to please any winter traveler. There’s just as much to do off the slopes as on them.

The village is a holiday postcard, with the Community Church acting like Santa’s beacon. When it’s lit up on a snowy night, the steeple casts an ethereal glow over Main Street. It feels as if you’ve stepped into an old winter’s tale.

In summer, bikers, hikers, dogs, and walkers share the Recreation and Quiet Paths that loop the town. The paths are dotted with low arching bridges over bubbling streams and wispy, golden fields. Layers of green mountains unfold in every direction.

Fall is Extraordinary

But Fall. Well, Fall is extraordinary. From September through late October, Stowe glows, fully aware it’s her moment to shine. Leaves the color of a golden retriever’s coat fall from skies whose only intention is to show them off.

In the Fall, the village is a hive of activity. Shoppers spill out of Bear Pond Books, arms piled high with fiction and fantasy. Kids ogle over jars of old-fashioned sweets at Stowe Mercantile, and wannabe interior designers fawn over the farm-chic wares at Farm Home Co.. Pumpkins pop up along West Hill Road, cradled in patches that conjure up Charlie Brown’s Halloween antics. Crumbling red barns make our hearts skip a beat and add a cinematic touch to the country scene.

But also in the Fall, Stowe becomes a wee bit challenging to navigate. The restaurants book up, and sharing the road becomes a lesson in kindness. But kindness abounds—because everyone is just so damn happy. Kaleidoscopic colors lining a historic Main Street just bring out the best in people, I guess. Even the New Yorkers.

There’s no shortage of blog posts and magazine articles describing Stowe in the Fall. It’s a small town; the best places to stay, dine, drink, and hike are easily Google-able. But local knowledge always rules—and local knowledge I have. Forty years of it, in fact. Soon enough, my local knowledge will get even more refined, as we pack our bags and drive as far north as we can without a passport.

Whether you’ve already been to Stowe or are planning your first trip, here are my favorite haunts, drives, hikes, views, and ways to get the most out of a Fall Stowe getaway. Prepare to fall in love.

Go Stowe

How many towns have their own logo? Surely there are none as recognizable, timeless, and with as much gravitas as Stowe’s. The ‘Flying S,’ as it’s often called, was initially designed by a German-born artist named Sascha Maurer, who created posters for U.S. ski resorts.

The logo first appeared in the 1950s and has since been used to market and brand Stowe. As a former graphic designer, I admire how the ‘S’ evokes the downhill swish of a ski turn. As a former advertising exec, I appreciate how the tagline, ‘Go Stowe,’ serves as both an invitation and a rallying cry to explore.

So, let’s explore.

Quench Your Thirst

Hot Chocolate Break: ‘Tis the season for dark chocolate pumpkins and Bourbon caramels. Lake Champlain Chocolate is a Main Street boutique that has been an ongoing ode to chocolate since 1983, about the time I started visiting Stowe. Travel + Leisure may have named it ‘America’s Best Hot Chocolate,’ but if I were you, I’d do some personal research. Don’t skip the colorful Stowe mural hidden around the side of the building—a family selfie moment you won’t regret, no matter how much your kids cringe.

A Shot of Espresso at Café On Moscow: This teeny-tiny coffee-and-sandwich shop on the outer edge of Stowe is far enough away from the maddening crowds to feel like you’ve discovered it first. Beyond great coffee, baked goods, and sandwiches, they sell a handful of crafts from local artisans and have a few outdoor tables to soak up the sun. There are lots of great country roads nearby to get lost among the leaves.

Pop-Up Pastries: Whereabouts is a nighttime speakeasy that transforms into a pop-up coffee and bakehouse on Friday mornings. Local entrepreneur, Hannah Mitrani, cleverly roped in nearby Hyde Park’s Two Sons to showcase their buttery baguettes, scones, and muffins. Open from 8am til every crumb is gone—set your alarm.

Orange is the New Black (Cap): Coffee is always in season, but with its badass brews and front porch views, the Black Cap Café was made for Fall. The line might snake out the door, but resist the temptation to cross the street to a soulless franchise. Black Cap coffees, sandwiches, and baked goods are worth the wait. Women-owned and women-powered, with a shot of Chaggaccino or VT maple syrup. You’re on holiday—what’s the rush?

Legendary Brews: The Alchemist got its start in nearby Waterbury, but now offers its cult-following Heady Topper, among other IPAs, from its Stowe location. What’s all the fuss? Well, Heady Topper’s distribution is small and has consistently ranked among the world’s best beers—two valid reasons to seek it out. True beer-bros will want to book a brewery tour. Check the website for details.

It’s All About the Leaves

Fall Into Step: The Quiet and Rec Paths are two trail systems that capture what makes Stowe so special. I’d be lying if I said this scenic duo isn’t partially responsible for my move to Stowe. There isn’t a season they disappoint me, not a weather condition I’m not awed by. The mornings when a low sheath of fog slowly lifts above the mountains are one of my favorite sights. And when shards of sunlight break through the cover, it’s proof of a Higher Power if there ever was one.

The Stowe Recreation Path stretches 5.3 miles—a gentle ribbon of pavement perfect for biking, walking, or simply sitting on a bench to watch the leaves drift down. There are several access points, but one of the prettiest is just behind the Stowe Community Church, where the canopy blazes with color. Be sure to turn around as you wander—you’ll find one of the most iconic photo angles of the church steeple as you look back towards town.

The Quiet Path is just that: quiet. Reserved for walkers, both two-legged and four, it’s a peaceful counterpoint to the lively Rec Path. Park at the Mayo Farm Road lot (near the intersection of Weeks Hill Road), and meander along the edges of open cornfields. Slip down to the rocky stream bank, and you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of verdant Mount Mansfield.

Get Lost: Percy Farm’s famous corn maze will delight visitors of all ages—unless corn mazes scare the bejeesus out of you, like they do me. If that’s the case, sit at a picnic table and let your crew test their sense of direction and battle claustrophobia.

Located just off the Mountain Road, visitors can pull into the Thompson Park lot and follow the Recreation Path north on foot. Cross a small bridge, and the maze will be on your left. Don’t forget your camera; the Fall foliage here is unbeatable.

Worcester Views Rule: Speaking of Percy and his farm, I consider the best spot to admire the Worcester mountain range to be at the intersection of Weeks Hill and Percy Hill Roads, where Percy’s barn once stood. From here, you can see the expanse of the range, which in the Fall is lit up to perfection. Not long ago, Percy’s historic barn burned down, but the iconic dairy cows remain. I hear the bears are envious that the cows have the best views around. Those bovines always do look pretty smug.

Parker’s Barn is Falling Down: Parker’s Barn’s days are numbered. Literally numbered. Built in 1875 and located on West Hill Road near Mayo Farm, this weathered Stowe icon has seen better days. While the town decides its fate, make a detour. In the fall, Weeks Hill is alive with color, and Parker’s pigeon-filled barn stands as a striking foreground to Green Mountain views.

The Money Shot: Looking for the best steeple view? My go-to spot is from the parking lot at Tangerine & Olive, a mountain road boutique just a bit beyond Stowe’s famous covered bridge. While there, be sure to show this sweet shop some love. Tangerine & Olive has unique adventure-driven items you won’t find anywhere else in town. If you decide to drive, use the dedicated parking area just before the store; otherwise, I might get blacklisted from Stowe before I even get there.

Golden Hour SkyRide: You won’t burn any calories to get these views, but your heart will race anyway. The Stowe Gondola SkyRide in autumn is distractingly beautiful, with views of rolling hills blanketed in burnt reds, rich golds, and fiery oranges. On clear days, you can see for miles—past the patchwork of the Green Mountains, over the valley floor, and toward the distant Adirondacks. Go at golden hour or in the morning for peak pics.

Through The Notch: Smuggler’s Notch is the stuff of legends—one of Vermont’s most dramatic mountain passes and, at one time, a notorious Prohibition smuggling route. Today, the leaf-obsessed can drive this winding corridor of towering cliffs, enormous, prehistoric boulders, and lush forests. Once winter arrives, the Notch closes to vehicular traffic, so grab your hiking boots or snowshoes to tackle it on foot. The scenery will be worth it, and your heart will thank you.

Where to Burn Calories

Top of the Mountain: This scenic drive along the Auto Toll Road has 4.5 miles of switchbacks and hairy curves that take you to the summit ridge of Mt. Mansfield. The colors along the ride are astounding, and since you aren’t going much faster than 20 mph, you’ll have lots of time to admire them. ‘That doesn’t sound very active,’ you’re thinking. Just hang on.

Arriving at the top is just the beginning of this Stowe Mountain exclusive. From the parking lot, hike the Long Trail to the ‘chin’ of the mountain. The hike undulates, passing through narrow pine-laden spots and open rocky plateaus. You don’t have to hike all the way to the chin for stunning scenery (or to burn calories), but if you do, sit and stay for a while. An open panorama of layered blues and greens, along with views of Lake Champlain in the distance, will have you spinning in circles trying to take it all in.

Hikers’ Warning: Not all trails come with a warning, but the Cliff Trail’s is well-deserved. I didn’t want to hike the Cliff Trail, but I’m married to someone who often ~~nudges~~ ~~pushes~~ throws me beyond my comfort zone—something about him I simultaneously love and hate.

I can testify to the Cliff Trail’s rigor. It follows a very steep, exposed 1.1-mile route that had me climbing iron rungs and gasping across rock gaps. It had me cursing my husband—and wondering how my cardio had plummeted so drastically, given that I practically live in an Equinox. But when I finished, I felt superhuman, and devoured an entire pizza on the way home.

There are several ways to access this short yet steep hike. One is from the parking lot at the top of the Toll Road (bring a map; I wouldn’t be able to find the trailhead without one), and the other is from a trail near the top of the gondola. Whichever you choose, bring water, wear hiking shoes, and don’t forget sunscreen.

The Pinnacle: Stowe Pinnacle is one of Vermont’s most rewarding short hikes—especially in the Fall, when the landscape explodes with color. This round-trip hike is 3.7 miles with a steady uphill ascent, including some rocky scrambles. The reward for your effort? The most fabulous views of Mount Mansfield from an open bouldered ledge. Just be sure to follow the same color trail markers back down the mountain. I’m not going to get into specifics, but let’s just say a disagreement about the color blue almost cost me my marriage.

All About Ranch Camp: Ranch Camp is the cycling hub of Stowe. It also serves some of the best lunches in town. I never miss a chance to order The Rock, a grain bowl piled high with everything I love: fresh avocado, black beans, arugula, corn salsa, and brown basmati rice. The menu is custom-made to celebrate the completion of any Stowe activity, even if that activity is driving up the Toll Road.

Ranch Camp rents bikes and E-bikes, so no need to tow your own if you want to take on Stowe’s mountain trails. Cady Hill Forest is one of Stowe’s most popular biking trails, and it’s conveniently accessed behind Ranch Camp. Often referred to as the ‘maple jungle,’ this trail system is peaceful, lush, and intimate.

Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

The Butler’s Breakfast: I don’t usually eat breakfast, but the first thing I’m going to do when I move to Stowe is beeline to The Butler’s Pantry for buttermilk pancakes drenched in Vermont maple syrup. There’s always a wait, so it must be worth it.

To help ease the pain of waiting, however, their website has a ‘Join the Waitlist’ link, which I interpret as an excuse to walk along Main Street and build up an appetite. Beyond pancakes, Butler’s Pantry serves other morning delights like Challah French Toast, Three-Egg Omelets, and Biscuits and Gravy.

Ranch Camp Refresh: I already sang the praises of Ranch Camp, but it deserves an encore. I never, ever, don’t eat lunch at Ranch Camp when I’m in Stowe. I’m considering asking whether they have any job openings, so I can offset how much I spend there. Don’t miss Cody’s Crunch Wrap. It’s a twofer—so big you can save half for tomorrow’s breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

The Hills Are Alive: Yes, those hills are in Stowe, too. Everyone knows about Trapp’s Family Lodge. So instead, try the gloriously understated and intimate Edson Hill for dinner. The dining room is beautiful, everything a Vermont lodge should be. Despite its long history in Stowe, Edson Hill has kept up with the times without losing its warm elegance.

In the Fall, Edson Hill’s 38 acres exude Vermont country charm. New England flavors with a twist are on order; try the Maine Lobster Hand Roll with Yuzu, Shiso, and Spicy Furikake, Trumpet Mushroom Tempura, or the Roasted Hudson Valley Chicken with Sunchokes and Roasted Brussel Sprouts. Save room for Sticky Toffee Pudding. Edson Hill also has gorgeous cottages and rooms—if I didn’t live in Stowe, this is where I’d stay.

Getting Granular

I only know a handful of practical, hyper-local tips about Stowe. But watch this space. I’m going to be a ruthless tip collector once I get there. Do you already live in my future hometown? What can I add? Drop me a note!

Parking Matters: If you don’t find a spot on Main Street, don’t lose hope. Try the public parking behind the Community Church, or the lot behind Shaw’s and the Green Mountain Inn. There’s another lot located near the Post Office on Depot Street. May the parking gods be with you!

Avoid Road Rage: Fall is one of Stowe’s most popular times of year for tourism, so traffic is a given. If you want to avoid losing your mind, consider the time of day you drive into Stowe and around town. The stop sign at Mountain Road and Main Street is particularly infuriating in the afternoons. Get out early, wear your comfiest sneakers, and walk. Smile.

Self-Catering, Stowe-Style: Shaw’s Supermarket is not the only place to stock up on groceries for your Airbnb or rental (thank God). We love Commodities for produce and specialty items. Yes, it’s pricier. But the produce is fresh, and the parking lot is easy.

Basement Wines: Not basement prices, but the wines found at Fine Wine Cellars will suit all of your vino-related needs. This family-run business on the Mountain Road started as a hobby and, over the years, expanded beyond wine by adding a cute gift shop. The earthy cellar is the real deal, complete with low ceilings, the scent of bold tannins, and the faint aroma of fermented yeast—awakening senses that true oenophiles will appreciate and will make the rest of us sneeze.

Tracking Color: If you have flexibility in your vacation plans, consider using a Fall Foliage tracker before you commit to a travel date. There’s definitely some risk using this tactic, as many Stowe hotels book up quite far in advance. Grab a Farmer’s Almanac and start researching, or take your best guess. Either way, it’s nice to have some idea of the color by tracking previous year’s color paths.

Good Things Come With Age

In 30 days, I’m moving to Stowe. I’m trading my Manolos for Muck Boots and my insecurities for a sense of adventure.

Wine isn’t the only thing that gets better with age. As I’ve matured, I’ve come to appreciate things my younger self wouldn’t have given a flying fig about: a crimson-tinged maple leaf, a misty morning fog, and a pine-filled trail that opens onto a vast panorama. I’ve realized that beauty is something I can observe, not something I have to possess.

I’ve spent decades enjoying big-city life and all that comes with it: jam-packed restaurants, buzzy bars, and sleek, modern gyms. Now, small-town life sounds divine. I’m ready for cozy dining rooms, local watering holes, and more trails than I’ll ever have time to hike. I understand the appeal of getting into flannel PJs at 5pm. Wait, doesn’t everyone?

What I love about my future hometown goes far beyond that, though. Beyond colorful leaves, pumpkin patches, and dog walks on quiet paths. I recognize that I crave different things than I used to. Although I don’t know exactly what my life will look like in Stowe, I know I’ll figure it out when I get there.

Think about taking a drive north. Fall in Vermont is undeniably beautiful, and Stowe oozes New England charm. To my DC peeps: I’m not expecting visitors every weekend, but I sure wouldn’t mind it. Mark your calendars. I’ll save a seat for you at Ranch Camp.

Maybe you’ll fall for Stowe, too.

Get My E-Guide: The Ultimate Non-Skier’s Guide to Stowe

5 Stowe FAQs:

How do I get to Stowe?
Stowe is about a 45-minute drive from Burlington International Airport (BTV). Fly into Burlington, rent a car, and you’ll be winding through mountain roads in no time.

What’s the population of Stowe?
Just under 6,000 people call Stowe home. Small town. Big personality.

How big is Stowe?
Stowe covers about 72 square miles—about the size of San Francisco, just with more maple trees and fewer tech bros.

Do I need a car?
Yes. While the main village is walkable, most of Stowe’s best spots—trails, farms, covered bridges—are a short drive away. Having a car is key.

Is Stowe dog-friendly?
Very. You’ll find trails, patios, and even inns that welcome your four-legged BFFs.

October 24, 2025
What’s Love Got To Do With It? At Wolf Cove Inn, Everything.

Historic Maine inns are some of the last vestiges of simple and timeless country gatherings. Whether as a natural stop on the way to a big city or as a place to break up a long road trip, the classic Maine inn is as quintessential as a Maine lobster. So when millennial innkeepers Geoff and Nicole Skidmore decided to buy Wolf Cove Inn, they didn’t miss a beat turning it into a destination that honors the past but walks headfirst into the now.

Follow me to Wolf Cove Inn, where love is found in the details.

They say a loon’s call echoing across a glassy lake at dusk is one of nature’s most haunting sounds. One that leaves an imprint in your mind. During our two nights at Wolf Cove Inn, we see the loons, yet they remain silent. They glide unhurried and unbothered across Tripp Lake in pairs, like long-lost lovebirds.

Wolf Cove Inn, located in Poland, Maine, is a modern-day love story that unfolds in unexpected ways. There’s the love of the bucolic property—a Maine inn that was brought back to life by California transplants, Nicole and Geoff Skidmore. There’s family love, as Nicole and Geoff discovered they were pregnant with their son while finding Wolf Cove. Then there are the inn’s signature micro-weddings, which quietly celebrate love.

And, there are the loons. Who doesn’t love the loons?

Love is sprinkled throughout the property like fairy dust. It manifests in ways big and small. Whether as a boat house ‘Romance Dinner’, a private lakeview sauna oasis, an elopement, or a photo op in a tandem swing with your favorite person. Wolf Cove Inn has declared love a core value.

Nicole and Geoff have redefined the image of a stuffy historic Maine inn, essentially flipping the script, right down to the dinner soundtrack.

Saying Goodbye to Hollywood

Love is so naturally sewn into the fabric of Wolf Cove because it was a romantic endeavor from the start. In 2021, Geoff decided to leave his job at Disney Motion Pictures in California, unfulfilled by the remote post-pandemic setup. One weekend, he and Nicole left their tech-filled worlds behind to tackle Washington’s Mt. Rainier. It was somewhere between miles 40 and 50 that kick-started a heartfelt conversation. What did they want to do with their lives?

Nicole comes from an innkeeping background, her paternal grandparents having previously owned a B&B on Cape Cod. This connection sparked a passion for the hospitality industry that was destined to come full circle.

A dream started to take shape, and soon they were scouring the country for an inn to call their own, inviting Nicole’s dad, Bruce, to partner with them. It was during this arduous and lengthy process that they discovered Nicole was pregnant. Little did they know how soon they’d be parenting two needy babies, Aiden and Wolf Cove.

Maybe it’s because so much tenderness went into creating Wolf Cove Inn, or because their son was brought into the world there, that the underlying tones are so intrinsically sentimental.

Geoff calls the innkeeping experience one of passionate progress. Always evolving, growing, and changing. Hmmmm, that sounds a lot like raising a child.

In and Around Wolf Cove

Wolf Cove has thirteen thoughtfully designed rooms, including the newly renovated Deer Isle Suite and a standalone cabin called the Eagle’s Nest. We stay in Deer Isle. It’s complete with a full kitchen, private backyard patio entrance, an art installation wall that channels Mother Nature, and a host of other amenities.

All the rooms are named with Maine in mind, Acadia, Cadillac Mountain, and Moosehead Lake, to name a few. Some have hot tubs, fireplaces, and cushy king beds. A select few are dog-friendly. The Eagle’s Nest is nestled between tall pines and has panoramic lake views.

Geoff tells me they have plans to upgrade the rooms over time, taking care to evolve and refine while never loosening their grip on the guest experience. It’s a labor of love. And as every parent knows, maturity takes time and patience.

Millennial Experiences Aren’t Just for Millennials

Geoff is a natural storyteller. I admire his talent for capturing slice-of-life moments: Aiden chasing their dog Luna across the lawn, a peek inside the fabulously-curated sauna oasis experience, or poking fun at the trials and tribulations of innkeeping.

Geoff catches these moments in a way that is endearing and relatable. Then, after a long day tending to guests’ needs, overseeing the property, and a host of other tasks, he goes home and starts uploading to Instagram and TikTok. Nicole’s job also continues—a toddler is a round-the-clock undertaking. Many of Wolf Cove’s reels have gone viral, amassing thousands of views and followers. The life of a millennial innkeeper is always IRT.

Nicole and Geoff’s relatability is what makes this Maine inn especially unique. I’ve been to many inns, yet I can’t remember one where the hosts were so visible and accessible. Geoff and Nicole are intentional with Wolf Cove Inn. Every aspect has been thought through. Guest movements are anticipated. The pace flows naturally.

They’ve also somehow discovered what many historic inns lack—that true hospitality lives in the details. That the guest experience is more than a comfy bed and an in-room Nespresso machine. And that bridging the traditional and the new can only be accomplished with good old-fashioned hard work. They do this all while chasing Aiden, their toddling innkeeper-in-training.

Setting the (Instagrammable) Scene at Wolf Cove Inn

At Wolf Cove, the lake and its ever-present birdlife add to the rhythm of our stay. With the help of my Merlin app, I hear Bay-Breasted Warblers, Pine Warblers, and Chipping Sparrows among other species. Birdsong is Wolf Cove’s built-in soundtrack—best listened to while taking advantage of their picture-postcard views and Instagrammable nooks and crannies.

Tripp Lake, rimmed with uninterrupted pines and cast in silhouette at dusk, is cinematic. A trellised arch overlooks the water, perfect for a golden-hour photo. A red-roofed barn rests across the hill, as if lifted from an American folk painting. Colorful buoys hang playfully from a white-shingled boathouse, while canoes and Adirondack chairs wait on the shore—everywhere you turn, it’s one frame-worthy scene after another.

Beyond Bed and Breakfast

Wolf Cove Inn uses local purveyors for just about everything. The all-day coffee station beans come from 44 North and are best savored on the sun porch in a handmade mug from local potting duo Kristen and Joe Camp. Campfire Pottery creates the tableware we dine on each night, which is as hearty and artful as the meals.

Unlike other Maine inns, Wolf Cove takes its culinary program beyond breakfast. Executive Chef Kevin Peters spent time at both Blue Hill in New York and Noma in Copenhagen. At Wolf Cove, he returns to his Maine roots to take charge of the dining experience. Whether enjoying his signature free-form vegetable lasagna with its handmade sheets of pasta and ultra-delicate béchamel, or his bold short rib and bone marrow ragu, each bite is infused with, you guessed it, love.

Whisk and Butter make the Wolf Cove Inn love story even sweeter. After dinner, we devour their dark chocolate caramel sea salt cake, topped with chocolate ganache, before we sit by the lake listening for the elusive loons. As if in consolation, an owl hoots weakly. Appeased, I head to our suite and sink into a deep sleep.

The Boat House Bistro is the Original Love Shack

I ask Geoff how the Boat House Bistro came into being, and his answer surprises me, although it shouldn’t. He tells me it came from an Instagram post.

“Social media just freaked out about it,” Geoff says with a smile. He had shot video of the 20-square-foot space, an original boat house overhanging the lake, and unknowingly created a viral moment.

“Everyone wanted to know how they could book it. I knew we were on to something.” Geoff and Nicole’s constant drive to create and enhance means Wolf Cove Inn will continue to surprise guests.

The Boat House Bistro helped prompt an uptick in the culinary program at Wolf Cove Inn. What started as simple pizzas and chili dinners evolved into an elevated culinary program that sticks closely to Maine. It’s the ultimate intimate, private dining experience—naturally enhanced by the lakeside scene, the orange-tinged sunsets, and the loons’ eerie call.

In the Name of Love: Micro-Weddings and Elopements

There’s something undeniably romantic about choosing to elope. Not out of haste or rebellion, but with intention. To strip away the expectations and the crowds. To focus only on what (and who) matters most.

Maybe it’s the stillness of Tripp Lake, the loons, or the way the light catches the pines at golden hour, but Wolf Cove Inn seems to be made for elopements and micro-weddings. Perhaps it’s Nicole’s golden touch, her attention to every detail, and gift for inspiring romance.

Wolf Cove offers wedding and elopement packages to help couples curate and commemorate the first day of their lives together. This is Nicole’s sweet spot. And after seeing a few of the ceremony locations, I’m tempted to renew my vows. My husband takes to the idea exactly as I expect, then readily agrees to paddle me to the middle of the lake so I can search for eagles. Mission accomplished.

Love Conquers All

At dusk, Tripp Lake looks like glass. A hush falls over the landscape, and the conical spires of evergreens are backlit by the setting sun. I try to manifest a loon—a long, mournful, distant wail calling to his partner, “I’m here, where are you?” he will cry. Moments later, she will respond. “I’m over here. Find me.” It’s solitude, peacefulness, and yearning, all wrapped up in one long, amorous note. But not today, which is fine. Another reason to return to Wolf Cove.

Before we get on the road, I ask Geoff one last question: ‘What do you ultimately want here?’ He thinks for a moment, then replies, “In this little remote part of Maine, I want to create the unexpected. Something that creates a sense of FOMO. Something that gets people to stop scrolling and say, ‘Whoa, that’s different, that’s unique.’ I’d really love that.”

At its core, Wolf Cove Inn is a love story. A series of love stories. Not only between people, but between place and its purpose, old and new, between stillness and sound.

This historic Maine inn is waiting. Head north and find it.

Saying ‘I do’

Wolf Cove makes tying the knot with your favorite peeps picture perfect by offering Inn Buyout Wedding Packages. They can accommodate up to 50 guests for an intimate and beautiful lakeside ceremony. Click here to learn more!

Disclaimer: Although Wolf Cove Inn kindly hosted me for my stay, all opinions stated are my own. As always, I’ll only recommend places I fully believe in.

June 10, 2025
It Takes a (Kona) Village: The Big Island’s Most Well-Loved Property Gets a New Life

Why is Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort, so well-loved? Maybe it’s their prized location, a crescent bay where the Pacific Ocean stretches into the horizon without interruption. Or, the well-appointed ‘hales’ and locally-sourced cuisine. Maybe it’s the staff who welcome every guest with a natural smile. It’s all of that, and more. But what truly sets Kona Village apart is its connection to the past, where the traditions of this former fishing village are literally etched into the island’s volcanic landscape.

We peel off the long, flat highway. The sun is strong and high overhead. It would be simple to say the landscape is black and leave it at that. It’s more than black. It’s layers of charcoal, soot, and smoke. Its textures are made of craggy, cratered, and coarse rocks. Dry grasses struggle to take root in spaces between them, adding a wisp of gold to the otherwise bleak terrain. Petroglyphs scrawled on flat boulders evoke an ancient blackboard. Fields of lava tumble towards the sea, frozen in time.

Beyond the lava fields, palm trees rise like a mirage sprung to life—their green fronds swaying, vibrant and alive against the mighty Pacific. Kona’s history is one of devastation, renewal, and resilience. The energy here feels sacred.

Another left. Then, a long palm tree-lined road leads to Kona Village. A few Premier League hopefuls kick a ball across grass so perfectly green and manicured, I’m convinced it’s fake. Ahead, the Kahuwai Bay comes into view.

The History of Kona Village

Johnno and Helen Jackson happened upon Kahuwai Bay in 1965, arriving on their schooner after sailing the South Pacific. On the site of an abandoned village, they built Kona Village Resort—a secluded retreat that thrived for decades, drawing visitors from around the world to their sliver of Hawaiian paradise.

That is, until March of 2011, when a tsunami ripped through the Big Island of Hawaii, taking Kona Village Resort with it. The land lay barren and vacant, waiting patiently for its next chapter.

Twelve years later, Rosewood recaptures the beauty and traditions of the past and rebuilds Kona Village. It restores the property thoughtfully, with raised hales (thatched Hawaiian huts) that complement the landscape. It brings in local artisans, solar power, and green initiatives. But most importantly, it honors Kona’s history.

Today, village life thrives again in and around the Kahuwai Bay. Whether found in carved stones or imprinted in the dark skies overhead, Kona Village may have been reimagined, but it hasn’t lost its soul.

Setting the Scene(ry) at Rosewood Kona Village

Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort, has 150 villas and suites across 81 lava rock-covered acres. Low-arching bridges connect lagoons. A volcanic mountain range looms in the distance. Despite being the height of spring break, there isn’t a time during our stay that the resort feels overcrowded.

Black-crowned night herons hunch over the lagoon like statues, foraging for frogs and insects. Koloa Maoli ducks glide across the water. A train of baby Francolin follows Mama Francolin, leaving little tracks in the sand. White egrets with golden beaks fly past low palms filled with red-crested cardinals. I geek out with my binoculars, embracing my inner birder with pride.

Complimentary cruising bikes can be found throughout Kona Village. As hard as it is to leave the lagoon, I grab one and start exploring. The resort’s oceanside looks and feels like another planet. Villas on this side of Kona Village have infinity pools and quiet beaches dotted with stone fire pits and sun loungers facing the sea.

The shoreline is encrusted with lava rocks, black sand beaches, arched stone caves, and lava tubes.

The Pacific Ocean crashes violently against the rocks. In the distance, I see Mauna Kea, a volcano that last erupted 4500 years ago. I think it’s due, and only hope this isn’t the week Mother Nature has scheduled her next performance.

It’s wild and untamed. Desolate and raw. Completely unlike my Disney-esque lagoon. I love them both for different reasons.

Lagoon Life

I’d thought long and hard about our room choice at Kona Village. Had we not just spent three nights sea-facing on Maui, I would have most likely chosen an oceanfront villa. Who stays in Hawaii and doesn’t opt for an ocean view?

But the lagoon villa surprises me. The entrance is discreetly tucked away among the flowers and trees. The raised lagoon-facing deck spans the length of the villa, optimal for birding. Wooden slatted walls, a warm, neutral palette, and contemporary decor are a study in timeless understatement. Every book, lamp, and piece of furniture looks hand-picked.

Bowls of ripe fruit, cocktail mixers, and fresh flowers are details worth savoring. The living space is open and airy, and our bathroom has a concrete standalone tub and outdoor shower. It’s twice the size of my first NYC apartment.

This is the magic of Kona. Despite its size, everything feels small, welcoming, and intimate. Like a village.

Kona History, in Surround Sound

The Kona Village Resort encourages a conversation with the past. With 22 anchialine pools and 21 archeological sites across the property, the lands are not only well-maintained but well-loved. One morning, I stumble upon an area once the site of a village kitchen. Later, I see a pockmarked slab of stone that reminds me of checkers. A nearby plaque confirms it was a traditional board game.

Not far from the lagoon, I find a raised wooden boardwalk where ancient petroglyphs are carved into stones and slabs. Ala Hele Papa is an on-property open-air museum, filled with archaeological treasures. These petroglyphs reveal the stories of the past.

One carving, Honu I Ka ‘Upena, shows a sea turtle in an intricate net pattern. Another, Hapi Kanaka, depicts a burial procession—two human figures carrying a third between them.

There are 440 documented drawings in the area, some of which are almost 1,000 years old. Rosewood binds the art and stories of the past to the present day. The petroglyphs and relics are complemented by common areas filled with bold and dramatic modern art.

Nearly all the commissioned artwork around the property is created by artists who are native Hawaiians or current residents.

In Hawaii, Jetlag is your BFF

I head to The Market around 7am, ready to embrace the day with the help of a strong cappuccino. The Market is Kona’s hub, located beachside and stocked with baked goods and complimentary fresh fruit alongside matchas, espressos, and cold brews.

The Market opens at 5:30am. Anywhere else, this would seem absurd. But in Hawaii, most of the guests have traveled from mainland USA and are jetlagged. 7am Hawaii Standard Time (HST) looks and feels like lunchtime Eastern Standard Time (EST). Kids run amok. Snorkels pop out of the water. Some intrepid travelers have already returned from a morning hike.

On (and Off) Property at Kona Village

As one would expect from a world-class resort, endless activities, excursions, spa treatments, and water sports are on hand. The tiered adults-only pool is steps from the beach. After our fair share of adventures on the Road to Hana the previous week, we’re happy to do the bare minimum: eat, drink, caffeinate, and sunbathe.

We get off property a few times, if only to justify the rental car. Those excursions are worth it. We see more of the island’s beauty, hike beside royal burial grounds, and watch a giant sea turtle play in a shallow rock pool. Natural beauty and wildlife are ever-present in Kona.

But there’s nothing like coming ‘home’ after a few hours away. It was especially important to get to Talk Story Bar, Kona Village’s beach cocktail shack, before sunset. I’ll always remember Talk Story as the place I saw the green flash—a phenomenon that occurs when the sun’s final rays disappear into the horizon. Until that night at precisely 6:42pm, I was convinced it was pure myth.

Moana, Shipwrecks, and Cowboys

There are three restaurants at Rosewood Kona Village. Over our five nights, we eat twice at open-air Moana, twice at beachfront Kahuwai Cookhouse, and on our final night, score a coveted seat at the Shipwreck Bar for sushi. This shipwreck is no beach gimmick. It’s Johnno Jackson’s beloved schooner, restored as a place to gather and imbibe—a nod to the resort’s fishing village past.

At Kahuwai Cookhouse, wooden tables dig into the sand under twinkling lights mimicking the constellations overhead. The menu celebrates Hawaii’s cowboy (paniolo) culture with Hawaiian specialties, like huli huli chicken and steak tacos.

Restaurant Moana may double as a breakfast venue, but it feels completely different at dinner time. It serves Pacific Rim-to-table cuisine with sustainably sourced ingredients. The high-pitched roof, open-air setting, and amber lighting create a vibe worth dressing up for. Meals are long and relaxed. The lapping waves provide a lulling soundtrack to accompany the clinking glasses and low laughter.

Did I mention the flip side of jetlag? Everyone is asleep by 9pm.

Daily Rhythms

The days take on the slow island rhythm I crave after our many near-death experiences on the Road to Hana. Early mornings with the sunrise and the birds. The Market for coffee and a leisurely breakfast at Moana. A few hours in the sun, then a stroll along the bay searching for shells.

Later, beachside ceviche with a bottle of chilled wine. A nap (because why not?) under a thatched umbrella. Reading, biking, swimming, and scouting for sea turtles and whales. More birding. More biking. Sunset at Talk Story Bar and then another dinner under the stars. This pace is so unlike my real life. What a vacation is meant to be.

It Takes a Village

I grab my last Kona cappuccino and scan the horizon for whales. I’m so busy looking into the distance, I nearly miss a seal belly-rolling towards the shore less than ten yards away. She bounces her weight back and forth using her flippers to propel her massive body onto the beach.

This is 403, a regular guest at Kona Village. She’s an endangered monk seal, one of only ten around the islands, and she’s ready for a nap after a long swim from Maui.

The beach staff springs into action. “It takes a village,” the young, shirtless Hawaiian says with a smile, as he cordons off the area around her. (Not creative license, he really said that!) A quiet crowd gathers. Cameras click. Then, just as naturally, village life resumes. 403 may nap for up to 24 hours. And while she takes up prime beach real estate, no one seems to mind.

Kona Village is a sacred place. I imagine the villagers who lived here centuries ago. They left behind a road map in their petroglyphs and carvings. An insight into their lives. Those who visit Hawaii’s Kona Village can retrace their paths. Follow in their steps. Their fishing village may no longer exist, but it’s honored here.

A new life, built on the memories of the past.

Ready to travel—but can’t find the time to plan?

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My research. Your adventure.

May 27, 2025
Don’t Drive Maui’s Road to Hana Without This One Simple Thing

I wrestle with my iPhone, trying to connect it to CarPlay as we race out of the Enterprise parking garage. Speed bumps ignored, the Jeep lurches and bounces like a bronco at a Texas rodeo. Was a 4×4 really necessary? The answer will be clear soon enough, but suffice it to say—hell, yeah!

Finally, I pair successfully and set up the Shaka Guide—an app designed to expertly navigate the Road to Hana—a drive on eastern Maui known for its crazy switchbacks, towering waterfalls, and dramatic landscapes.

‘It’s about the journey, not the destination,’ I tell my husband and daughter for the umpteenth time. They scowl. This is new territory for Daniel, who thinks the destination is the destination. I close my eyes and practice square breathing.

Shep Who?

When we exited Kahului Airport after twelve hours on two planes, an overnight in Waikiki, and an ungodly early morning hop to Maui, we were understandably tired (aka grumpy, under-caffeinated, and hangry). But we were on Maui. Who can complain?

I thought of my dad. As he’s mentioned more than once, one of his fraternity brothers lives on Maui. “Would you be able to meet up with Shep? You know, my fraternity brother, Shep? You’d love Shep. He’s a great guy.”

My dad has a weekly Zoom with his college buddies. And although I don’t think anyone aside from my dad gets a chance to speak, Shep is a name I hear often. My dad has great friends, all of whom are impressive and unique. My dad is a great friend. He’s also impressive and unique. Unfortunately, we don’t have time to see Shep on this trip, I tell my dad. We are driving the Road to Hana. Plus, I’m sure Shep has things to do.

So when we stumble wearily from the plane, our carry-ons and neck pillows trailing behind us, I jump when Ella shouts, “Oh my god, Mom, look!” I follow her gaze. The wall ahead has a banner that reads ‘Maui Nui Hall of Fame’ above a grid of portraits. Sandwiched between Woody Harrelson and Paul Simon is Shep. Shep Gordon. Hollywood talent manager, film agent, and producer.

Oh, and loyal fraternity brother to one Barry Lyman.

But First, (Kona) Coffee

Our hotel in Hana can take up to eight hours to reach, depending on how many fun stops one makes along the way. That’s the point of the Shaka App, I tell Daniel, ‘fun stops.’ Places to watch waterfalls, swim, hike, walk a black sand beach, climb through lava caves, and explore. It’s the journey, the journey, the journey…

This is how I knew we wouldn’t be able to meet Shep. I’d be happy if Daniel stopped for breakfast.

A perky male voice pipes up in surround sound, “Aloha! Welcome to the Shaka Guide’s Road to Hana driving tour!” Whoa, it’s too early in the morning for that kind of tone. I lower the volume. “It’s going to be a great day on our drive and tour together!” the voice continues. Ella and Daniel look nervous. I’m as thrilled as Victoria Ratliff clutching her first G+T of the day. This is going to be fantastic.

“Our trusty, albeit overeager, guide needs a name,” I say. “We’ll be listening to him for hours. Any ideas?”

“Shep!” Ella and Daniel shout in unison.

So begins our adventure along the Road to Hana.

Maui’s Most Famous Road

In the 1500s, Maui’s King Piʻilani initiated the construction of what was essentially a long, dirt footpath across Eastern Maui. The path was about 5 feet wide and stretched over 138 miles, enabling travel and trade across the island. By the 1870s, the road was improved, yet still unpaved.

It would remain that way until 1926, the official opening of ‘The Road to Hana,’ when groundwork and bridge construction were implemented for a more passable route. (I guess crossing rivers and streams by rope swing got old quickly.) Fast forward to the 1960s—a fully paved, albeit harrowing, road was complete.

By the numbers, the Road to Hana is impressive. This 64.4-mile scenic tropical drive that connects Kahului to Hana town has 620 curves (some with switchbacks that double back on themselves), 59 bridges (46 of which are single lane), over 18 waterfalls, countless beaches (some with black sand), bamboo forests, marbled eucalyptus trees, and ocean views.

Divorce Highway

Hana Highway’s switchbacks, sweetly rebranded as curves, had been on my mind since I booked the trip. Daniel and I have braved many death-defying, hair-raising, and winding roads: Corsica, Mexico, and Mallorca are a few standouts. We survived them, but not without a few heated discussions. I think he drives too fast; he thinks I worry too much about his driving too fast. We’re both right. But being right hardly matters when I’m convinced we’re about to launch off a cliff every 45 seconds.

Having Shep alert us of upcoming sharp turns and single-lane bridges eases my mind. He even describes how to share the road with the locals, who careen around curves like Formula One hopefuls.

I’ll let Shep tell Daniel to slow down, tell us where the nearest bathrooms are, and where we should stop for a snack. And he does. Hence, the Road to Hana, sometimes dubbed ‘Divorce Highway,’ is a pretty pleasant ride. Shep, if I didn’t thank you earlier, hear me now. You saved my marriage.

Navigating the Road to Hana With The Shaka Guide

Over the next three days, the Shaka Guide becomes our lifeline—highlighting 33 tour stops and 125 Tour Audio Points over 10-12 hours. I know what you’re thinking. Did Shep talk for 10-12 hours? In the downtime between talking points, the Shaka Guide played traditional Hawaiian music. The ukulele and drums set the tone—soft, rhythmic, and pure aloha vibes.

Since the Shaka app is connected to Google Maps, Shep always knew exactly where we were. Even if we didn’t. Even when it bordered on creepy. “Ignore the row of illegally parked cars ahead on the right,” Shep instructed. Then, reading my mind. “Don’t worry; better examples of marbled eucalyptus are ahead.” Sure enough, a few cars were stopped on the right, just like Shep said.

I have to give the Shaka Guide props; this kind of attention to detail is hard to pull off in real-time. To say we got more out of the drive than if we’d been reading a traditional guidebook is an understatement.

We would have missed critical turn-offs on a road where backtracking isn’t an option. We’d have missed magical views while arguing who has the right of way on 46 single-lane bridges. And we would have missed some stops altogether, clueless about what lay beyond the next bend.

It’s not called Divorce Highway for nothing.

The Road to Hana: Starting Out

The Road to Hana officially starts at mile marker 0. Shep tells us not to worry if the marker is missing, as travelers sometimes take it as a souvenir. We stop in Paʻia Town to grab a coffee and provision up. This is the first and only town we will see before we reach Hana Town in 6-7-8 hours. And although there are promises of huli-huli chicken and banana bread stands along the route, there’s no way I’m letting hanger ruin our journey.

Thanks to advanced planning, we had reserved The Hana-Maui Resort for three nights. Hana-Maui is the only traditional resort in Hana Town. With only 66 rooms and suites, it’s 620 hell-ish curves back to Paʻia Town if you don’t book one.

Check Hana-Maui Resort Availability here

Approaching Mile Marker 0

Our first stop is Hoʻokipa Beach, just off the highway past Paʻia Town. Roosters roam the gravelly parking lot, pecking with intention, while the Pacific Ocean surges below. Although called the ‘windsurfing capital of the world,’ we only see surfers sitting in the lineup and a few napping monk seals.

We return to the Jeep and drive towards the turn-off to the legendary surf break, Jaws. During the winter, we learn the waves here can reach as high as 70ft. Shep tells us to “Be aware; it’s a long and bumpy dirt road that leads to the beach.” We’re warned that the single-lane dirt track to see the break is sometimes impassable, with deep ruts and deep puddles. 4WD is a must. We skip it and vow to see it on our way back to the airport (cue foreshadowing).

Shep says we are approaching mile marker 0. If Daniel’s concerned that we’ve already stopped twice and haven’t officially started the road to Hana, it doesn’t show.

The Road to Hana: Bamboo Forests, Lava Caves, and Waterfalls

Our three days of driving are as exciting, adventurous, and scenic as I’d hoped. We see majestic waterfalls, including Twin Falls (mile marker 2) and 400-foot Waimoku Falls (mile marker 42). We trek the Pipiwai Trail, past ancient banyan trees and through tall bamboo groves, whose clacking sounds like a line of tumbling dominoes.

The sandwiches stave off hunger, as planned, but a stop at Aunty Sandy’s (mile marker 16) for a warm loaf of banana bread is the crowning culinary moment of the morning. The raging Pacific crashes against lava rocks. Palms cling to the beach and lean permanently sideways from the wind. Everything along the road feels green, mystical, and alive.

Shep tells us that if we haven’t bought tickets in advance for Waʻanapanapa State Park (mile marker 32), one of Maui’s most famous black sand beaches, we’re out of luck, as same-day passes can’t be purchased. “Ummmm, no, I hadn’t secured advance tickets,” I tell Daniel and Ella. They don’t seem to mind. Daniel probably views this as a win—an extra hour at our resort in Hana Town.

Ever the optimist, Shep reminds us there’s much more to see and do ahead. After a short ukulele melody, he has us pull off the road.

“Maybe Shep’s wrong?” Ella says as we look around. “Where’s the cave?”

But just then, we spot an opening, about three feet tall, on the edge of the highway. We peer in; it’s pitch black. ‘Trust Shep,’ I think as I scramble in. We crawl through the short, drippy, black lava cave and pop out into the forest (mile marker 23). Exhilarating and surprising, this is what the Road to Hana is about.

Hana Town: Hidden Beaches, Food Trucks, and the Hana-Maui Resort

We arrive at the Hana-Maui Resort around 4pm. It’s been a day. Miles of hairpin turns, stone bridges, gushing waterfalls, hiking, and eating. Our weathered green cottage is an oasis.—modest and clean, with 360-degree uninterrupted ocean views and an oversized veranda. We embrace stillness for the first time in days.

The only traditional restaurant in the area is at Hana-Maui, where we have two of our three dinners. But lunch steals the show in Hana Town, where groupings of food trucks keep locals and tourists well-fed. Choices abound, including homemade tacos filled with chicken, shrimp, or beef, poke bowls, huli-huli chicken, Thai food, acai bowls, and smoothies. Lunch is so good; I crave lunch for dinner. But unfortunately, the food trucks close at 630pm.

After visiting the coffee truck one morning, I sit on our deck with my book. On my left, just outside the property’s perimeter, I notice people heading down the steep hill towards the bay. ‘Where are they going?’ I wonder. Curiosity gets the best of me. Ella and Daniel are poolside, honing their Hawaiian tropic tans. I text them my general whereabouts and set off.

A ten-minute cliff-hugging hike takes me to a crescent cove with enormous red lava cinder cliffs and a red sand beach. A wall of black lava rocks absorbs the Pacific break, revealing a tranquil pool. There’s no feeling quite like discovering a hidden beach. Although not exactly hidden. As the Shaka Guide later revealed, this is Red Sand Beach (mile marker 35).

I bask in the sun and enjoy the solitude on our last full day in Hana.

Check out the Hana-Maui Resort Reviews Here

On the Road to Hana, Trust Your Guide

Our flight to Kona is at 12:30pm and the last thing I want is to get stuck on the Hana Highway. I package our early morning wake-up with the promise of one last stop at our favorite coffee truck and the chance to see anything we missed on the way up. Daniel has his heart set on Jaws.

The all-knowing Maui gods say the drive from Hana Town to Paʻia Town is roughly 2 ½ hours without stops. Daniel clocks in at 1 hour 48 minutes. He’d make a great local. So when we get to the turn-off for this mythical surf break, I’m unconcerned; we have time to spare.

Our Jeep creeps down the single-track dirt path, which gets steeper, narrower, muddier, and more deeply rutted the further we go. We cross puddles of indeterminate depth. Mud attacks the windows and obscures our view. The silence in the car is deafening. Even Shep is speechless. What have we gotten ourselves into? There’s no going back—turning around is physically impossible.

Finally, we reach Jaws, locally known as Peʻahi—one of the world’s most famous big wave surf spots. It earned its nickname from the sudden, monstrous swells that can appear seemingly out of nowhere.

Legendary Surf Break, Jaws

We hop out of the Jeep and anxiously gaze out over the cliff. Jaws’ waves are tragically underwhelming. But none of us would have appreciated them, even if they had towered at 70ft with Kai Lenny deep in the barrel. We were too worried about the mile-long trek back to the highway. I ask Daniel what he thinks, assuming he will assuage my fears like always. “50/50,” he says with little confidence.

I start square breathing. Ella checks her phone for a signal, and Daniel puts the Jeep into gear. Off we go.

Some journeys lead to great destinations, others to great stories. On the Road to Hana, we got both.

Did You Notice?

You don’t have to be a cartographer to recognize my list of sights is geographically out of order, but they are the moments that made our journey. Use the Shaka Guide to map out your adventure. Click here to get yours!

Get Your Own Shaka Guide! Click Here.

April 5, 2025
3 Sensational Summer Days in Stowe: A Vermont Secret No Longer
Think Stowe is only for leaf peepers and ski bums? Let me introduce you to summer—my favorite season in Stowe. Sure, it’s not even spring yet, but it’s never too early to plan for summer. Read on for inspiration—what to do, where to hike, eat, drink, and stay. Discover some off-the-beaten-path places only locals know about, like eerie covered bridges and how to sniff out the best coffee in town. Ready to take on Vermont’s not-so-best-kept secret?

I round the bend, obeying the speed limit like the rule follower I am. Mac’s Market appears on my left, marking the spot where, for a mile or so, Route 100 becomes Main Street. I stop at the intersection of Main and Mountain. A full stop. A deep breath. A smile.

Stowe’s Main Street is an apple pie-shaped slice of Americana. It transports me from my fast-paced city existence to a slow-paced country one. No matter the season, it feels like coming home. But in the summer, it feels like something else.

It feels green.

A Stowe for (almost) All Seasons

In the Fall, Stowe is an intense kaleidoscope of color. Reds, oranges, and yellows transform the landscape little by little each day. By winter, those harvest colors are replaced by blankets of white—a muted landscape marked by the woooosssh of a skier or the crunch of snow underfoot. Spring brings the mud, keeping tourists at bay. The village quietly regroups.

But in the summer, Stowe is a love letter to green—hunter, honeydew, laurel, lichen, moss, grass, forest, sage, and mint. In the summer, Stowe owns green. These greens have a distinct look, feel, and smell—layered mountains, freshly mown meadows, and forests thick with birch, elm, poplar, and hickory.

In Stowe, green is a vibe.

40 Summers of Stowe

Summer in Stowe isn’t the secret it was when I was a kid. Even today, it’s overshadowed by its bossy older siblings, Winter and Fall. I’ve been visiting Stowe for more than 40 years. Over the decades, the village has grown and changed, adding stores selling non-GMO granola, organic wines, and overpriced avocados. But at its core, it remains the same—a place to get reacquainted with Mother Nature, to embrace the simple life—and to recharge.

In Stowe, nature and adventure unfold in many ways. No two days are the same. Tackle winding, wildflower-filled trails and bike through overgrown forests. Lose yourself in the town’s galleries or seek out Scottish Highland cows to photograph. For those who believe the best adventures are savored, Stowe’s food scene will satisfy your cravings.

Are the Green Mountains of Stowe on your summer radar? Or, do you wonder if they hold enough to captivate you and your family? Read on for inspiration on how to spend three sensational days in Vermont’s prettiest village.

My Stowe Summer E-Guide: with all the links you need to plan your trip!

Day 1: What to do in Stowe

9am-ish: My brain doesn’t boot up until my first sip of coffee. For a small town, Stowe has multiple places I like to caffeinate (none of which ends in ‘bucks). Black Cap Coffee is powered by women pouring badass brews. Don’t be intimidated by the lines. These women move fast. And their coffee will kick start your first day in Stowe like a green flag at NASCAR.

I recently added a teaspoon of Chagaccino to my coffee order. Chaga is a medicinal mushroom rich in antioxidants and claims, among other health benefits, to lower blood pressure and stimulate immune systems. I’m all in for Black Cap’s Chagaccino cappuccino. But boosting immune systems comes at a price. Be warned!

10am: Sufficiently revved, I stroll Stowe’s picturesque Main Street. I stop at long-time faves like Shaw’s General Store and Bear Pond Books. Many of these independent businesses have been here since I was a kid.

I cross the street and dip into Farm Home Co, a home decor shop that, with its highly-curated wares, could just as happily live on Main Street, Sag Harbor. A few doors down is The Country Store, a home goods shop where I inevitably buy kitchen gadgets I don’t need. A Hasselback potato slicer catches my eye. I head to the register. Yes, we make Hasselback potatoes at least twice a year. Money well spent, indeed.

And this one time, at Ranch Camp

I take a hard turn at Mountain Road and walk through Stowe’s 150ft pedestrian-covered bridge. Dewey’s Bridge has been a village icon since 1973. I grab my phone. From here, the views of Stowe’s Community Church, the town’s crowned jewel, are postcard-worthy.

12pm: After a few (hundred) snaps, I beeline to Ranch Camp, a five-minute walk up the road. Part bike shop, part sandwich shop, part tap room, Ranch Camp has an entire menu worth devouring. For RC virgins, I strongly recommend The Rock. I’m a Ranch Camp expert, and I still can never not order The Rock.

The Rock is a protein bowl of perfect proportions—arugula and brown basmati rice with black beans and corn salsa, topped with an avocado sliced with surgeon-like precision (no doubt with a gadget they bought at The Country Store).

My Stowe E-Guide is filled with even more things to do. Click Here!

The Stowe Summer Trifecta: Nap, Dinner, Stroll

2pm: At this point in the day, I need one of three things: coffee, chocolate, or a nap. If chocolate is your pick-me-up, Lake Champlain Chocolates is nearby. Travel + Leisure named their hot chocolate ‘America’s Best.’ And no, hot chocolate isn’t just for winter.

5pm: If the sun is shining, grab an Adirondack chair and a microbrew and watch the world go by from the front lawn of Stowe Public House. This al fresco pitstop sometimes blends into dinner, so I book an early table at Plate just a few doors down. This California-inspired restaurant is always packed. But even if I forget to make a res, I grab a stool and enjoy my Hearts of Palm Vegan ‘Crab Cakes’ at the bar.

8pm: At summer’s peak, the sun remains high in the sky well past my bedtime. But I can’t pass up an after-dinner stroll along Stowe’s Rec Path. I catch it just behind the church for a last few breaths of green mountain air before I fall into a deep summer slumber.

Day 2: What to do in Stowe

9am-ish: Hidden in the far back corner of Baggy Knees Shopping Center, Woodland Bakery is the coffee and pastry shop no local wants you to know about. When I become a local, I will curse you for going there, but for now, be my guest!

The air inside Woodland is pure butter. I salivate like my black lab at dinnertime. The coffee quietly screams artisanal, and though Woodland isn’t only for coffee snobs, they’ll feel right at home. At Woodland, brews, brioche, and butter rule.

10am: It’s time to hike the Green Mountains Stowe is so well known for. Try Sterling Pond, which is accessed from the top of Smugglers’ Notch via a trailhead on Route 108—a moderate hike to an alpine pond. Or follow the same pass once used by outlaws and smugglers—Smugglers’ Notch Trail is near the Barnes Camp Visitor Center. This steep uphill hike winds through dramatic cliffs, enormous boulders, and forests.

If you have kids in tow, take them to Percy Farm’s yearly corn maze and enjoy the views while they get lost in the tall cornfields for a while.

For those who love waterfalls (who doesn’t love waterfalls?), Glen Moss Falls, located right off Route 100, is a picturesque stop. It’s more walk than hike, so don’t expect to burn off that brioche here. Bingham Falls, accessed from a marked trailhead along Route 108, rewards hikers with a dramatic cascade and inviting, albeit cold, layers of swimming holes.

An afternoon of brews, boutiques, and burgers

12:30pm: One of Stowe’s prettiest places to have lunch is the Ideltyme Brewery and Restaurant’s backyard garden. With its central, convivial, al fresco bar and simple bites like warm pretzel bread with pub mustard and fried pickles, it’s easy to whittle away a few hours in the sun with a flight of beer.

1:30pm: If you’re in Stowe on a summer Sunday, and I highly recommend that you are, walk from Idletyme to the farmer’s market. Weave in and around the tented vendors: popsicles, potstickers, and artisan popcorn. Herbs, herbal roots, and herbal-infused teas—it’s everything a village farmer’s market should be.

3:30pm: The Mountain Road is lined with standalone shops and boutiques. Archery Close is one of the best, with brands that elevate Vermont flannel like Amundsen, Marine Layer, and Faherty, as well as curated accessories and shoes.

There are two Coco Goose boutiques. I’m not sure why, but they’re both worth visiting. With brands I covet, like Nili Lotan, Ulla Johnson, Veronica Beard, and Herno, those Coco Geese certainly know their audience.

7pm: Warm summer nights in Stowe are made for Doc Ponds. Casual and lively, kick back with a cold craft beer, some cheddar fritters, and a burger with hand-cut fries. The vibe is effortlessly cool—with vinyl records spinning, picnic tables on the patio, and a steady hum of conversation. Whether you roll in from a day of hard-core hiking or hard-core shopping, Doc Ponds is a great place to end the day.

More hikes, more restaurants, more shopping. Click Here for my Stowe E-Guide!

Day 3: What to do in Stowe

9am: I’m not a yogi, yet I love the morning Yin Yoga class at The Swimming Hole. In Yin Yoga, you hold stretching poses until you almost fall asleep. I love to sleep. Yin Yoga is the yoga for me. The Swimming Hole also has a gym and a pool, where day passes are sold. This is an especially good option should your summer day start with some rain. Those Green Mountains don’t get green by themselves, remember!

10am: Walk or bike the 5.3-mile scenic trail that loops around town. The Rec Path path follows the West Branch of the Little River, crossing 11 low-arching bridges and ducking behind the Stowe Community Church. Each turn has a beautiful view of the landscape. Wildflowers line the trail and mountain views around every bend. Wear a bathing suit and take a picnic lunch with you. You’ll find plenty of spots to hang out beside the river.

1pm: Take a scenic drive to some of Stowe’s iconic and historic covered bridges and barns—snapshots of Vermont’s past. Gold Brook Bridge, aka Emily’s Bridge, comes with a ghost story. After being abandoned by her lover, legend has it that Emily met a tragic fate here. Red Covered Bridge, just outside town, is classic Vermont—bold, bright, and reflected in the slow-moving brook below.

Take a selfie with Parker’s Barn on Weeks Hill Road. Although the town gives funds to keep it standing, this iconic and dilapidated red barn’s days are numbered. The dozens of pigeons who live there should start looking for new lodgings.

Time to Splurge

2pm: A vacation isn’t a vacation without some decadent splurges. The Spa at Topnotch Resort is just what I need to soothe my weary body and soul after a few adrenaline-filled days. Topnotch’s Spa has been a favorite of mine for decades and offers classic treatments, from 25-minute spot massages to 80-minute deep tissue massages. But it has also changed with the times and has R&R CBD and Thai massages.

Don’t forget to book in advance—I’m not the only one who thinks the Spa at Topnotch is the best.

7pm: Edson Hill is just far enough from the bustle of town for those looking for a quiet place for drinks and dinner. The Tavern has brown leather couches and low post-and-beam ceilings that define coziness. The restaurant has modernized classic New England fare with a seasonally changing menu. Views are photo-worthy in every direction—a culinary standout in Stowe.

This Stowe day trip comes with a scoop of Cherry Garcia. Click here to learn more.

A Stowe Hotel for Everyone

Finding the right place to stay in Stowe in summer depends on your vibe—are you here to unwind at the spa, explore every mountain trail, or just soak in the small-town ambiance with a cocktail?

For the Romantics:

Edson Hill is as elegant as it gets in Stowe. Set on 38 rolling acres, this beautiful and romantic spot has eight Manor House rooms and 15 guest houses, each oozing sophistication and antique charm. Four poster beds with crisp white linens, fireplaces, velvet couches, and standalone soaking tubs may mean you never leave the room. But, those who do will be rewarded, as the property has wildflower-filled walking trails, horse stables, and a bucolic pond.

For the Spa-Goers:

Topnotch Resort & Spa is for those who want luxury without the pretense. Tucked into the mountains, Topnotch has topnotch views, an award-winning spa, and an outdoor pool that begs for lazy afternoons. Whether you’re booking a tennis lesson, indulging in a deep tissue massage, or sipping wine by the fire pit—lean into relaxation at Topnotch.

For the Best Village Location:

The Green Mountain Inn is a quintessentially Stowe inn located on Main Street in the heart of Stowe village. It’s quaint, cozy, and packed with old-world charm—only steps away from shops, restaurants, and the Rec Path. With its creaky floors, afternoon tea, and kind hospitality, you’ll feel like a regular, even on your first visit.

The Green Mountains are Calling

‘Stowe’s such a small town—do you ever get bored?’ I sometimes get asked. No, never. Not in 40 years. But feel free to ask me again in ten.

It’s hard to get bored in a place where the morning fog continuously reshapes the scenery, where the Green Mountains often take on layers of blue, and where I’ll never exhaust the hiking trails and summit views. Where I feel green.

I might get bored of my go-to grain bowl at Ranch Camp. But I doubt it.

My $10 Stowe E-Guide has even more fabulous places to stay. Click Here!

My Interactive Stowe Map

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android
Ready to travel—but can’t find the time to plan?

Anyone can Google a destination, but finding the right sources, the hidden gems, the places worth your time—well, that’s an art that takes time. I’ll cut through the noise, saving you from hours of searching in the wrong places. Each of my recommendations is researched with your specific trip in mind.

After visiting 70 countries on 7 continents, I know how overwhelming travel planning can be.

But I also know how to make it easy. And exciting. And stress-free.

Click here to learn more about Jamie Edwards Travel Coaching

My research. Your adventure.
February 26, 2025
10 Amazing Gifts For Birders, Travelers, and Frequent Fliers

It’s never the wrong time to buy a gift for the birder in your life. Do you have a birder in your life? A traveler? A traveler who likes to birdwatch? Look no further. A few of the best gifts for birders, travelers, and frequent fliers are summed up right here.

On our honeymoon, my husband and I went to Africa on safari. The first morning in Tanzania, we woke at 6am to descend into the Ngorongoro Crater. Just behind us in the jeep sat an older couple. They were chicly dressed, head-to-toe, in shades of safari-brown. This was not their first ~~rodeo~~ safari. In their hands, they held little notebooks with little illustrations of little birds. I turned to the woman, “What are those for?” I asked. “We’re birders!” she exclaimed. My blank look begged for clarification. “Birds! We’re here for the birds.”

I resisted the urge to giggle and pivoted back to Daniel. A smirk passed between us. Later, when we were alone in our lodge, we roared with laughter. Birds? That’s ridiculous! We can see birds at home. Lions! We’re here for the lions!

This Post is For the Bird(er)s

It took me decades to appreciate our fine feathered friends. But, once I got the bug, I mean, bird, it was all over. I bought binoculars, I bought books, I downloaded apps—all for the birds. Only recently, when thinking about a new post idea for I am Lost and Found, did I connect the dots. Birds, flying and traveling. Bingo.

Whether you’re a birder who likes to travel, a traveler who likes birds, or simply looking for gift ideas for the frequent flier in your life, read on for inspiration.

(Please note the affiliate links below. I may receive a small referral fee should a product be bought through my site. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

10 Gifts for Birders Who Love to Travel

I get it. We aren’t called bird nerds for nothing. But once I owned my bird nerdiness, I was set free. Stay in the closet if you must, but the moment you embrace your inner birder, the better. Until then, take a peek at the best gifts for birders who love to travel.

1 / Binoculars

A birder without a great pair of binocs is missing out, literally. With binoculars, birders will take in views they may have never seen otherwise. Some top-of-the-line examples magnify up to 12x and higher, but the current sweet spot for birdwatchers is buying handheld binoculars with a magnification of 8 or 8.5x. From what I understand, this is partly due to image stabilization.

I like this pair because of its compact size and rugged exterior. But, no matter which pair you buy, the benefits of birdwatching are clear. Want to splurge? Watch how those benefits become crystal clear with these luxury binoculars from Swarovski.

2 / North American Bird Pocket Guide

What good are those fancy binoculars if you can’t identify the birds? Go old school and keep a pocket field guide on hand when traveling. An Amazon search results in many options for compact field guides. But the one that has me clicking won’t be found there.

Birds: An Illustrated Field Guide is visually stunning. Handbound in white leather, the cover can be personalized for your favorite birder. Each spread is a wonder—an illustrated profile of 50 of North America’s most popular birds. It’s a mere 5×7 inches in size, so throw it in your backpack or keep it in your car for easy access.

3 / Better Living Through Birding, by Christian Cooper

I won’t rehash the unfortunate reason Christian Cooper became so well-known. Instead, I’ll thank the bird gods for giving us his beautifully written and engaging book. In this captivating, true story, Cooper recounts how a life spent watching birds prepared him to be a gay, Black man in America.

You needn’t be a bird lover to enjoy Cooper’s wondrous story, Better Living Through Birding: Notes from a Black Man in the Natural World. Part travelogue, part memoir, and part primer on the art of birdwatching, it’s no wonder it’s a New York Times bestseller. Cooper’s tale will resonate with everyone.

Click Here To Get My Free Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet

4 / Merlin Bird ID App

Sometimes the best gifts cost nothing at all. This gift for birders is not only free, but it won’t take up any luggage space. Hello Merlin.

The Merlin Bird ID app was developed in 2014 by Cornell Lab Orinthologist Jesse Barry, who set out to answer the simple question, “What bird am I seeing?” Today, the app can identify over 6,000 species across six continents. This can be achieved by picture, whistle, or song. Whether you’re a novice birdwatcher or a fully-feathered bird aficionado, let Merlin answer all of your birding calls.

5 / a birdy told me…

Not long ago, I stumbled upon Pamela Berger’s brilliant website, a birdy told me… I subscribed, and my Fridays haven’t been the same since. Pamela drops a list of swoon-worthy, highly curated links into my inbox every Friday.

Pamela’s newsletter format is simple—an effortlessly composed handful of her favorite things. Her favorites might be about home design, art, style, travel, fashion, or culture. Typically, it’s a mix of all of the above.

Not a Friday goes by that I don’t find a candle to covet, a book to binge read, or a cross-body to carry. Pamela’s thoughts and links are interwoven with a unique stream-of-consciousness writing style I envy.

a birdy told me… and now I’m telling you.

6 / Bird Notecards

I’m a letter writer. Ok, I used to be a letter writer. Now, I’m a notecard writer. But let’s face it, getting anything in the mailbox that isn’t from AARP or Land’s End is a treat.

Birds are living, breathing mini works of art. Their plumage, markings, unique body shapes, and feathers make them natural models for artists around the world. It’s not hard to find notecards with bird designs (over two million pop up on Google). What’s hard to find is perfectly executed, species-specific ones that are inspired by real-life sightings.

Brad Sneed is a seasoned illustrator and fine artist who’s well-known for his children’s picture books. But, dig deep into his website to discover his handcrafted notecards. Brad’s work is an ideal gift for any bird-lover who also happens to be a notecard writer. There are more of us out there than you’d think.

I’m in awe of Brad’s feather-light details on the Snowy Owl. I admire the rich red hues of his Red-Bellied Woodpecker’s head. As it turns out, this common woodpecker’s belly is actually pale pink, not red, as advertised. The pink belly can only be detected when it’s hanging upside down. Now that’s a rare sighting!

Each box of eight notecards is exquisite. And, with multiple notecard sets to choose from, good luck selecting just one for the bird lover in your life.

7 / The Traveler’s Atlas of The World

What birder doesn’t need an oversized illustrative atlas to inspire travel to bird-centric destinations? National Geographic’s latest coffee table tome features a Grey Crowned Crane, Uganda’s national bird, on the cover. The Traveler’s Atlas of the World couldn’t be more exhilarating. I’m planning to give it to every single person on my Christmas list (whether they were naughty or nice), and that’s not only because I contributed four sections.

An atlas is a present that takes us through time. It brings the world into our living rooms. It allows us to pinpoint future vacations and relive the ones we’ve taken. Click here to own it for yourself, or of course, as a gift to your favorite frequent flier.

8 / Bird Bingo

Whoever said bingo is just for toddlers and old ladies in Boca Raton has never played Bird Bingo. We were gifted this amazing game when our kids were in elementary school. Years later, I still can’t part with it. Aside from being artfully designed and illustrated, it is a genius way to teach kids (and everyone else) about birds.

Glasgow-based artist Christine Berrie’s colored pencils take bingo to new heights. If you can stop coveting the 64 magnificent illustrations for a moment, you can learn that at 11.5 ft, the Wandering Albatross’s wingspan is the longest of any bird. Leave the cumbersome box behind and pack Bird Bingo for your next family trip. When your kids can easily identify a Lilac-Breasted Roller, you’ll have me to thank. Be sure to use one of Brad’s notecards when you do.

9 / Eagle Creek Rolling Duffel

The few times I’ve spotted an eagle in the wild have been momentous occasions. Yes, I need to get out more. Eagles symbolize many things, including courage, strength, and freedom.

It’s no secret I’m a fan of Eagle Creek. Their products often end up in my posts for many reasons—but mostly because they last. We’re hard on our bags. And when they finally bust a seam or zipper, Eagle Creek fixes them—free of charge.

The ‘No Matter What’ Rolling Duffel comes in various sizes and colors, making it a must-give gift for travelers and frequent fliers. That it comes in Safari Brown tempts me to book another trip to Africa. Kudos to Eagle Creek’s clever marketing team.

However, the coolest thing about this bag is its ‘Chasing Zero’ process that eliminates nearly all product waste. The other coolest thing about it is that it can compress down into a stuff sack not much bigger than a 7-Eleven 30-ounce Big Gulp.

10 / Birds Watercolor Workbook

No birder with a neglected creative side should be without this adorable little workbook. I stumbled upon it while exploring the latest independent bookshop to open in the area. Within an hour of buying this avian gem, I set to work on my first bird, the Bluebird.

Female-owned and powered by Gayle Weiswasser and Amy Joyce, they named their store Wonderland because they believe ‘that reading and books open worlds of wonder, no matter where in life you are.’

If you live in the DC/MD area, run, don’t walk, or, should I say, fly, don’t run, to Wonderland Books.

Wisdom Comes With Age

Twenty years later, we go on safari—again. This time to the Okavango Delta in Botswana. Daniel and I are dressed head-to-toe in shades of safari brown. In our hands, we have little notebooks with little illustrations of little birds. Our kids sit in front of us. They look at our notebooks and then at each other. A smirk passes between them. I’m about to explain—but I change my mind.

One day, they’ll get it.

Click Here To Get My Free Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet

February 14, 2025
Why off-season is the best season in Kennebunkport, Maine

Kennebunkport, Maine, is an ideal escape in the summer, as everyone knows. But a visit to the Kennebunks in the off-season is just as rewarding. Maybe even more so, as the crowds have left and a level of calm is restored to this coastal town. Kennebunkport, Maine, has something to please every kind of traveler. Read on to discover my favorite places.

Oftentimes, the best trips are the least planned, last-minute escapes. The ones that fall into your lap at just the right time. Instead of thinking, ‘I can’t.’, you think, ‘Why not?’.

When my college friend, Amy, invited me to visit her in Kennebunkport, where she’s lived for five years, I went full-speed ‘Why not?’. While I could only get away for a brief mid-week stint, I soon realized that even 36 hours in Kennebunkport could feel like a leisurely holiday when exploring new territory without an agenda. I needed some time on the beach, and Kennebunkport beaches are known to be spectacular.

The PERKS OF THE OFF-SEASON in Kennebunkport, Maine

April is considered off-season in Kennebunkport. But I could feel the low buzz of activity as the shops, restaurants, and hotels prepared for the onslaught of tourists soon descending upon the town. Some places I wanted to explore were still closed, which gave me ample ammunition to revisit.

The town was beautifully quiet, so I didn’t have to fight crowds as I walked and shopped or wasted time searching for parking. The beaches were undisturbed, and I had the shells all to myself.

The film The Truman Show kept popping into my head—for obvious reasons. Everything looked so strikingly utopian. I remain convinced that the ducks had on/off switches.

KENNEBUNKPORT, MAINE: BEACHES RULE

Within hours of arriving, Amy and I drive directly to Gooch’s Beach. Kennebunk and Kennebunkport, Maine beaches are known worldwide, and it was easy to see why. The late afternoon sun highlighted the clapboard houses lined the serpentine beach drive.

The water was still, the tide low and glassy, and the beaches virtually empty. There was a brisk chill in the coastal air, and everything looked calm and peaceful—another allure of the off-season in the Kennebunks. I could immediately see why Amy had chosen to give up the fast pace of NYC in favor of this picturesque locale.

As the sun disappeared, it reminded me of my favorite snooty, intellectual, yet rarely used art school word—chiaroscuro. The contrast was so dramatic, with sweeping brushstrokes of light and dark where the sand met the sea. The shadows elongated as if on a time-lapse video. The clouds quietly hovered and picked up the colors of what the sun left behind.

Where would I stay in Kennebunk? The White Barn Inn, Naturally. Click here for availability.

KENNEBUNKPORT, MAINE: GOING SOLO

I returned to the Kennebunkport beaches the following day to capture them in the morning light. The three crescent beaches that hug the coast in nearby Kennebunk are Gooch’s, Middle, and Mother’s beaches. Each has a unique topographic personality.

Middle Beach is mainly rocks, and I amassed quite a collection of shells there, ensuring I didn’t accidentally take any concealed snails back to DC. (Note past mistakes, some smells you never forget).

The white sandy beaches that line the Maine coast undoubtedly look different when the tourists arrive, but today, they are barren and soundless.

Visit the Kennebunks: Highs and Highlights

Snug Harbor Farm, without question, was the highlight of my morning. I’m sure the staff wondered if I was ever going to leave, and after about an hour, I reluctantly did, if only because I knew there was so much more to explore and so little time to do it.

A combination of farm, boutique, greenhouse, nursery, and dovecot, Snug Harbor was the antidote for my all-too-often nature-starved life.

Each greenhouse was more exquisite than the next, some containing seemingly never-ending rows of artfully designed succulents. Some had tall potted greenery, such as curry and lavender, pruned to look more like popsicles than plants.

Fuschia, Cypress, Coleus, and green and silver Santolina filled the nurseries. It was a garden circus, and I most definitely overstayed my welcome.

THE SNUG HARBOR BIO

Landscape designer Anthony Elliott bought Snug Harbor in 1998 and has since cultivated his love of traditional English gardens to create this local oasis. Martha Stewart cites Snug Harbor as one of her favorite sources for gardening advice. Well done, Mr. Elliott.

Miniature horses wander the farm, as well as pretty, colorful roosters and fluffy white pigeons that appear to have been recently tumble-dried. There is the resident bunny and, I’ve read, a ghost or two.

In an equine twist, I discovered the wandering miniature horses wandered a little too much for Snug Harbor’s liking. They’ve been relocated to a more secure location since their attempted escape.

Explore Kennebunkport on this private historic district walking tour. Click here!

Come Sail Away on Ocean Ave

Another fantastic spot to shop is Sea Bags, located on Ocean Avenue in Kennebunkport. Based in Portland, they handcraft every bag from recycled sails—yes, actual sails that have traveled around the world.

Each piece is made on the waterfront in Portland, and no two bags are exactly alike. The vintage collection is my fave with bits of the sail’s original stitching, grommets, and scuffs. They’re rugged, refined, and totally New England. I dare you to choose just one.

LOBSTER X 2: KENNEBUNKPORT, MAINE

When choosing my only lunch in Kennebunkport, it was a given that I would have a lobster roll—a Maine staple. Armed with Amy’s recs, Alisson’s was the place to go. I was advised to sit at the bar and order the lobster roll and the award-winning clam chowder.

In one of the few times I’ve defied my all-knowing friend, I decided to double down on lobster: ordering lobster roll and lobster bisque. Too much of a good thing? Hardly. The lobster bisque was especially mind-blowing, with just the right texture, creaminess, and saltiness.

CLICK HERE TO GET MY FREE KENNEBUNKPORT HOT SHEET

EAT + DRINK IN KENNEBUNKPORT

As this was a mini-break, I meandered around town faster than usual, soaking up all the Kennebunks had to offer. My shortlist of Amy’s shortlist follows:

The Lost Fire, Patagonian Bar & Grill: A steak lover’s must, Head chef German Lucarelli is passionate about authentic Patagonian barbecue on his custom wood-fired grills. His smoky, hearty cuts have been firing up the Kennebunks since 2018.

Ultramar: The seafood sister restaurant to The Lost Fire has dishes to please all, including lobster four ways: bisque, roll, salad, or on top of spaghetti and other seasonal delights.

Boulangerie: If you don’t know, Boulangerie is ‘a proper bakery.’ I mean it: close your eyes, and these pastries will make you feel like you’ve been transported to Paris. Quiche, coffeecake, and croissants to die for, as one exuberant reviewer proclaimed. Pair with a cappuccino and grab a seat to enjoy the off-season.

Batson’s River Brewing & Distilling: Gastropub, brew pub, All-American bar. Call Batson’s whatever you’d like. Just be sure to order truffle fries and duck-fat cornbread to go with your stouts and brews.

Chez Rosa’s Bistro: A small French bistro in a romantic New England barn setting, offering comfort food influenced by nature, local seafood, farms, and pastures.

Rosella KPT: From NYC’s East Village to KPT, Maine, Rosella KPT’s sustainable sashimi and sushi are a welcome addition to Keenebunkport’s food scene. Centrally located at the Grand Hotel, mouth-watering slices of ahi tuna, yellowtail amberjack, and Acadian Redfish steal the show. But save room for dessert; the miso carrot cake is not to be missed.

Even more to do in KENNEBUNKPORT

KPort Provisions: The ultimate general store. Wine, coffee, Maine gifts, Bush paraphernalia, baked goods, and anything else you might need to picnic in the Kennebunks. If I had another lunch to spare, I would have grabbed a sandwich and a bottle of rosé and sat on the water’s edge to enjoy the afternoon view of the local church.

Minka: A beautifully curated artisan boutique. Home decor, accessories, and handbags are all chosen with evident care. The owners have thought through every detail in displaying their wares—grouping items by product and inventively by color palette. The designer in me was dazzled—a standout in a town of inviting boutiques.

Maine Art Hill: A collection of galleries and pop-up studios that highlight local artists. The open and brightly lit gallery was designed by the owner, John Spain, who has been in Kennebunkport for 30 years. There is art at price points that will work for just about everyone.

Dannah: A burst of blooms and coastal charm welcome you to Dannah. Inside, the boutique brims with beautifully curated finds—from lotions and artisan candles to jewelry, scarves, and handbags. Thoughtful touches like greeting cards, journals, and home décor mingle with a children’s section overflowing with plush animals. Whether your style is whimsical or refined, Dannah has something for everyone.

Dannah for Men: Kennebunkport’s newest shop focuses on men (how refreshing!) Unique gifts, home decor, barware, books, personal care & grooming, wallets, watches, belts, hats, sunglasses & readers, apparel, and so much more.

And A few More

Daytrip Society: A thoughtfully curated design store born from a love of adventure. Founded by native Mainers and passionate explorers, it offers a distinctive blend of home décor, gifts, accessories, and locally crafted treasures—each piece chosen to spark a sense of wanderlust.

Dock Square Emporium: Also at 30 years in Kennebunkport, this lovely little shop has local crafts and unique home decor, honey, cookbooks, terrariums, and succulents. The owner couldn’t have been more cheerful and hospitable. When I arrived, she’d just opened a damaged shipment of honey—a gooey, sticky mess. Instead of being annoyed, she was laughing about it with the customers.

Kennebunkport is the kind of place that somehow manages to make tourists feel like locals.

GOOSE ROCKS BEACH

Amy’s boss, Eric, generously gave me his car to explore. I would have been more than happy driving Amy’s fabulous blue pick-up truck, which was bought at an auction, sight unseen, by her husband. It still has the faded imprint of the ‘Kennebunk Parks and Recreation’ logo on the doors.

Eric insisted, which is how I could peruse the Maine beaches and coast. I started at Goose Rocks Beach and headed toward the exclusive enclave, Hidden Pond. Then, I stopped to watch the lobster pots unload before heading south toward the Bush compound. I chose the indirect, scenic route, not heading from point A to B, but rather a complicated yet scenically satisfying zig zag.

Where would I stay in Kennebunk? The White Barn Inn, Naturally. Click here for availability.

SCENIC HIGHWAYS OF THE KENNEBUNKS

As I drove out of town the following day, a whirlwind of lobster, ocean breezes, and freshly roasted coffee followed in my wake. I discovered one more reason to love this state that had thus far eluded me. I couldn’t put my finger on it right away, though. Why did this soulless highway seem so much nicer than the highways at home?

What was missing? Advertising. About 40 years ago, the governor signed into law an act that removed nearly 10,000 billboards from the highways of Maine. What a respite from my commercially overdosed daily life.

While I rarely travel without a plan or (gasp!) a dinner reservation, a visit to the Kennebunks was just what I needed to remind myself that some of the best finds are the ones you don’t plan. The ones that have you following roads based on instinct rather than Google.

Why not?

Explore Kennebunkport on this private historic district walking tour. Click here!

CLICK HERE TO GET MY FREE KENNEBUNKPORT, MAINE HOT SHEET

Anyone can Google a destination, but finding the right sources, the hidden gems, the places worth your time—well, that’s an art that takes time. I’ll cut through the noise, saving you from hours of searching in the wrong places. Each of my recommendations is researched with your specific trip in mind.

After visiting 70 countries on 7 continents, I know how overwhelming travel planning can be.

But I also know how to make it easy. And exciting. And stress-free.

Click here to learn more about Jamie Edwards Travel Coaching

My research. Your adventure.

January 1, 2025
The Most Inspirational (Non-Skiers) Guide To Stowe

I love to ski in Stowe. Ummm, let me rephrase that. I love to ski in Stowe when the sky is cloudless, cobalt blue, and the temperature is firmly north of 32 degrees. I love to ski when the slopes are blanketed in fresh powder and are crowd-free. Because I despise early wake-ups, I usually don’t hit the slopes until 9am. Then, I only ski until lunch because once I’ve devoured a cheeseburger and fries, I’m as active as a lioness after a kill.

You can probably guess how often I ski.

Undeniably, Stowe is a spectacular ski and snowboard destination. But non-skiers can still enjoy a winter holiday there. I’ve been visiting Stowe since 1984 and can vouch for activities beyond Mt. Mansfield’s double-black diamonds. Back then, I was a reluctant skier who only cared about cute ski outfits and hot ski instructors.

If you are your family’s most reluctant skier, let me acquaint you with Stowe’s other winter charms. There’s more to this Vermont village than meets the eye.

Why Stowe?

Stowe today isn’t much different from it was 40 years ago. Many of the shops, inns, and restaurants that I recall from my teen years remain. Bear Pond Books, Shaw’s General Store, and the Green Mountain Inn are just a few places that have stood the test of time. That Stowe has been able to retain its old-world sensibility is one reason why I come back each year. The fact that ghastly neon signs are banned is another.

But there’s more.

Stowe is a jewel-toned destination nearly year-round. In the summer, emerald green hills layer against sapphire blue skies. In autumn, throngs of leaf-peepers descend upon the town for ruby-red, topaz, and gold-tinged foliage.

By winter, those vivid colors disappear, muting the landscape. Yet, beauty abounds even on days when the snow isn’t glistening like diamonds. Morning fog rolls over the mountains, then slowly lifts as the sun ekes through. In the late afternoon, the sun descends behind the peaks and humps—leaving lavender and pink skies in its wake.

Stowe, a brief history

I wasn’t keen on history in high school so I promise to only bore you briefly with it here. Stowe was chartered in 1763, but its first settlers didn’t arrive until 30 years later. Back then, Stowe’s population totaled 316 people and 8,000 grazing sheep. You don’t need a statistics degree to figure out that the farming industry dominated Stowe’s early years. However, Stowe became a popular summer resort destination by the mid-nineteenth century due to its evergreen mountains and scenic terrain.

In 1921, Stowe hosted its first Winter Carnival, thus putting it squarely on the map as a cold-weather hot spot. Ski tracks were cleared, trails were added, and tourists began to arrive en masse. Before you could say baaaaa, Stowe became the ‘Ski Capital of the East.’

Beyond the slopes in Stowe, Vermont

Despite its history, don’t be fooled into thinking that skiing monopolizes winter in Stowe. This picturesque village aims to please all. I recently spent 12 days in Stowe—only two of which had skis attached to my feet.

What did I do for the other ten days? And what could I have done if I weren’t so content sitting fireside with my Johanna Basford coloring books? Read on for three days of inspiration.

Stowe Inspiration: Day One

A beautiful sunrise is one of the few things that gets me out of bed early. And in Stowe, there’s nothing better than watching the sun rise over snow-capped mountains. The landscape is hushed, and the bustle of the day is still hours away. In Stowe, mountain views rule. One of the best places to catch them is along the Stowe Rec Path. With over 5 miles of public paths, visitors can walk, run, or bike—all the while admiring Stowe’s natural beauty.

PC: Mark Vandenberg

I enter the Rec Path behind Stowe’s famous white-steepled church, but access points are everywhere. Arched wooden bridges dot the landscape, and I lose myself in the rhythmic sounds of the babbling brook. I take comfort in the fact that bears hibernate and photograph the covered bridge that links Main Street to Mountain Road. It starts to flurry, which adds a bit of whimsy to the bucolic scene.

Insider Tip: For those who love iconic red barns, catch a glimpse of Parker’s Barn before it’s gone. Most of Stowe’s old barns have collapsed over the decades, and Parker’s isn’t far behind. First built in 1875 and located on Weeks Hill Road at Mayo Farm, the fate of this dilapidated structure is in the town’s hands. But for now, you can still take a selfie beside it or capture its beauty with snow-covered fields in the distance. It may not be around the next time you visit.

Coffee Break

Eventually, I get cold. This is winter in Stowe, mind you. So I stumble into my new favorite coffee shop for an oat milk cappuccino. Woodland Baking & Coffee is hard to find, tucked in the far corner of the Baggy Knees Shopping Center—a place I now know of thanks to my new Stowe friend, Emily.

The coffee is crazy good—to use a technical coffee term. But it’s the scent of freshly baked loaves, croissants, and other crumbly, buttery, flaky delights that lure me inside. The ingredients are sourced locally. The crowd is local, too. I hope Emily is still my friend after I’ve told everyone about her secret coffee spot.

Farm Home Obsessed

Stowe has a few lovely interior design shops that make me long for a mountain house to decorate. Farm Home Co.’s showroom is meticulously curated. I covet the hand-woven baskets, especially the ones with a delicate, open, and wavy lip. The piles of patterned vintage kilim pillows, woolen throws, and bleached jute rugs tempt me to give my bedroom a makeover.

Insider Tip: Farm Home Co. has a nearby boutique property accommodating up to ten people. In the heart of town and designed to farm home perfection, this 150-year-old white clapboard gem has family reunion written all over it.

And this one time, at Ranch Camp

All this longing and coveting makes me hungry. So I beeline for Ranch Camp, a bike shop/biker hub/lunch spot perched on Mountain Road. Over 12 days, I ate there five times. Four of those times, I have The Rock, a warm grain bowl filled with black beans, arugula, corn salsa, sliced avo, brown basmati rice, and topped with perfectly grilled chicken. Four out of five times—yes, it’s that good.

A full morning of non-skiing activities and a hearty grain bowl begs for downtime. I head home and begin a Eugene Levy movie marathon: American Pie, Best in Show, and Schitt’s Creek. Right around the time Jim starts stripping, I fall asleep. (If you have no idea what I’m talking about, head to the couch and start streaming American Pie pronto).

For those who prefer the big screen, the Stowe Cinema 3Plex has been in show business since 1972 and serves guests beer and cocktails at their seats. What better way to see the latest Oscar contenders than with a Stowe Cider or Heady Topper in hand?

Insider Tip: A double India Pale Ale, Heady Topper is the 8th-best beer in the world according to Beer Advocate. It’s brewed in Stowe and Waterbury in tiny quantities, which gives it added allure in the craft beer-drinking world. A great place to try one of these famous brews is at The Alchemist, which also gives brewery tours.

Looking for even more to do in Stowe?

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PC: Mark Vandenberg

Stowe Inspiration: Day Two

I’m a part-time yogi. Occasionally, I’ll humor my husband and join him for a Warrior 3 or Downward Facing Dog. But no matter how often I practice, I only like the Shavasana part. For real yogis, Peak Yoga is located at The Swimming Hole, a fire-engine-red building just off Weeks Hill Road. A non-profit community pool and athletic center, this local fitness treasure is a hub for yogis and athletes alike.

Insider Tip: The Swimming Hole offers day passes. This means anyone can take advantage of the facility while visiting Stowe. My favorite classes are Yin Yoga and Gentle Flow. Sign up for classes here.

Looking for a small, private group tour of Stowe? Click here!

The Hills Are Alive

One of my favorite Stowe activities is snowshoeing. Anyone imagining unwieldy tennis racket-type snow boot attachments, please join me in the present day. Snowshoes today are high-tech, comfortable, and pretty badass. Click here for proof.

A popular spot to snowshoe and cross-country ski is the Trapp Family Lodge. Yes, the von Trapps of The Sound of Music fame. The von Trapps escaped to Stowe after fleeing Austria in the 1940’s. Their vast hilltop property offers sweeping panoramic views of the Worcester Mountains and has snow-covered fields dotted with herds of endearing Scottish Highland cows.

Insider Tip: If you don’t already own a pair of snowshoes or cross-country skis, it’s a snap to rent them on-site at Trapps. Pinnacle Ski & Sports is another place in town that will take care of all rental equipment needs.

PC: Mark Vandenberg

On Main

If you have the energy, wander Stowe’s Main Street. In a word, it’s delightful. I inevitably find myself absorbed in the best-seller section of Bear Pond Books. Beyond books, Bear Pond sells games, puzzles, note cards, and unique gifts. One level below Bear Pond is Stowe Mercantile. With old-fashioned candy jars brimming with jawbreakers, sour balls, and rock candy, the Mercantile is a childhood dream come to life.

Insider Tip: While typically more crowded due to its Main Street location, Black Cap Coffee & Bakery whips up fantastic brews and is set in a historic Vermont building across from the church and community center. Women-owned and run, Black Cap also serves breakfast and lunch.

Off Main

Sometimes, you have to take a few detours to find hidden gems. A few of my favorite places for retail therapy are not on Main Street. At least not anymore. Archery Close has moved to the Mountain Road. And thank god they did. With all this beautiful space to show off their curated collection of emerging designers, I might grab a sleeping bag and move in. Some of my favorite brands live here, like ba&sh, Marine Layer, Faherty, and Amundsen.

Next door, another Stowe essential has taken advantage of more space. Family-owned Commodities Natural Market has specialty groceries, IPAs, Vermont beef, farm-fresh eggs, and about a thousand other things you will want to take home. If you are self-catering at an Airbnb or a rental, you can’t do better than this cozy Chipotle Cheddar beef chili recipe from Half-Baked Harvest (is there nothing a block of cream cheese can’t improve?). You’ll find everything you need to make it (even Gochuchang) at Commodities.

And lastly, don’t leave town without visiting one (or both) of Coco Goose’s Stowe boutiques. From Herno puffers and Veronica Beard blazers to about a hundred styles of denim, Coco Goose knows its audience. Yes, it’s us, the non-skiers of Stowe! The 2038 Mountain Road location is attached to Après, a super cool cocktail and wine bar in an unexpected location. So once you’re shopped out, you can revive with a gin martini. Remember: you don’t need to ski to après!

Grab a Plate

Time for dinner already? Head back to Main Street. Using seasonal ingredients, Plate is a culinary highlight of any trip to Stowe. Its lively and convivial atmosphere keeps diners in place long after the meal has ended. One of my favorite plates at Plate has never left the menu—Vegan ‘Crab Cakes’. Made from hearts of palm and topped with a cashew aioli, it’s one of the restaurant’s most popular starters.

Other temptations at Plate include the Little Leaf Farm Lettuce with grapefruit wedges, maple granola, and avocado and the Grilled Pork Chop with bacon, brussel sprout slaw, and apple butter. Chef Aaron Martin and his wife Jennifer have brilliantly paired a small-town atmosphere with a big-city menu.

Insider Tip: Plate used to be old-school and take dinner reservations by phone only, but are now easily accessed via Open Table. Can’t get a table? Head to the bar instead. First come, first served!

Stowe Inspiration: Day Three

Despite my allergy to early wake-ups, I make exceptions beyond pretty sunrises. Hiking is an activity I enjoy year-round. In Stowe, there are trails to accommodate every fitness level. The Notch is one of the most user-friendly—a 3.5-mile paved pass between Stowe and Cambridge.

During the winter, the road is closed to vehicles due to the steep switchbacks that make navigating dangerous. This annual closure makes it a wonderful place to hike, snowshoe, cross-country ski, or even sled.

Massive boulders and 1,000-foot cliffs give the area a prehistoric air. I wind my way to the top under a canopy of snow-laden firs and paper birch trees. The Notch is an ideal way to burn pre-lunch calories.

Dashing through the snow

Not all outdoor activities in Stowe require elevating heart rates. Topnotch, a high-end hotel, offers festive sleigh rides. Beautiful Edson Hill has an outdoor apres-ski firepit available to guests whether they’ve skied or not. Spruce Peak Village has an ice skating rink, and the landscape offers miles of snowmobiling trails.

Our snowmobiling trip was an unexpected highlight, as I’d rather hunker down with a mug of chamomile tea before a roaring fire with my markers than get on an unwieldy piece of motorized metal in the snow. But the team at Stowe Snowmobile knows exactly what they are doing. After a short indoor video, a short outdoor tutorial, and memorizing the safety mantra, “When in trouble, let go!” I was ready to tackle the trails—all 25 miles of them. It was two of the most fun, snow-filled hours I’ve had in 40 years.

PC: Mark Vandenberg

Non-active activities

Stowe is inherently enchanting. I often take a drive in search of the area’s covered bridges. SLR and iPhone in tow, I wind up and around the hills, admiring the mountains as I go.

One bridge worth seeking out is Goldbrook Bridge, aka Emily’s Bridge. Built in 1844, this Howe Truss bridge is said to be haunted by Emily’s ghost. Another is barn red Brookdale Bridge, located at the Rec Path’s end. Photo ops abound in Stowe. Aside from coloring, it’s probably my favorite non-active activity.

Insider Tip: Avoid Main Street, Mountain Road, and Shaw’s Supermarket like the plague starting around 3-4pm. This is when all those hungry skiers and snowboarders leave the mountain en masse—creating traffic havoc and unwieldy check-out lines.

Spa-Bound

Even days when I don’t clock more than 2,000 steps, a winter massage is always welcome. The Spa at Topnotch has treatments to warm guests from the inside out. Take your pick from the extensive menu: Thai, deep tissue, CBD, magnesium, or a side-by-side massage with your partner. With scrubs, facials, peels, and infusions, the Spa at Topnotch is a full-day activity in my book.

Unwind at Cork

Nothing completes my day like a glass of wine. Cork is a wine bar designed for unwinding on a Stowe side street just off Main. Vermont’s first and only natural wine shop and restaurant, its dimly lit atmosphere draws many locals. Small bites like croquettes, baked brie, and focaccia with whipped ricotta pair well with my bold cabernet.

After dinner, I step outside the restaurant and notice the dramatic underlighting of Stowe’s church steeple. A few snowflakes fall, which adds to the setting of the fairy tale. According to the forecast, a storm is on the way. I head home and fall into a deep sleep.

Love craft beer? Take a Half-Day Local Brewery Tour. Click here for details.

PC: Mark Vandenberg

Let it ~~Snow~~ Stowe

I wake up at 7am and am on the mountain within an hour. It’s 22 degrees, and the skies are a dense, foggy gray. At the Quad’s summit, the visibility is compromised, and snow conditions are frozen granular, at best. More people are flying down Lord and Sunrise than I would like. There isn’t a single hot ski instructor in sight.

It’s epic.

Looking for even more to do in Stowe?

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Heading to Stowe this summer? Click here for three inspirational itineraries!

5 Stowe FAQs:

How do I get to Stowe?
Stowe is about a 45-minute drive from Burlington International Airport (BTV). Fly into Burlington, rent a car, and you’ll be winding through snowy mountain roads in no time.

What’s the population of Stowe?
Just under 6,000 people call Stowe home. Small town. Big personality.

How big is Stowe?
Stowe covers about 72 square miles—about the size of San Francisco, just with more x-country trails and fewer tech bros.

Do I need a car?
Yes. While the main village is walkable, most of Stowe’s best spots—trails, coffee shops, covered bridges—are a short drive away. Having a car is key.

Is Stowe dog-friendly?
Very. You’ll find trails, paths, and even inns that welcome your four-legged BFFs.

Stowe, Vermont Interactive Map

Map from Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

About Mark Vandenberg:

I don’t normally highlight other photographers, but when I find one so clearly superior in their field, I’m all too happy to showcase them. Having discovered his talent for capturing landscapes about 15 years ago, he’s now one of Stowe’s leading fine art photographers.

Follow Mark’s work at www.stowebeautiful.com and on Instagram: @stowebeautiful.

Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.

September 14, 2024
Stowe in Summer: 10 of the Best Ways to get Local

A few summers ago, my husband and I decided to head north. To live village life, country life, and a less rushed life in the mountains of Stowe. My parents’ house was empty, and it seemed an ideal way to escape the oppressive DC heat—a way to break the monotony that had gradually manifested over the past few months.

We packed up only the most essential items: our kids, our dogs, a few hundred Nespresso capsules, and cornhole. As it turned out, our essentials don’t fit in one car, so we took two and began our 10-hour caravan to New England. We’ve been living in Stowe for over a month now, and while our kids ~~may~~ do feel slightly differently, it was the decision of the year for me and Daniel. I’ve learned a lot about living a simple life. For one, I’ve discovered that while big luxuries are great, little luxuries are even greater.

I’ve compiled a list of the things that Stowe and village life have given me—a mix of the tangible and intangible. A list of things I hadn’t thought much about but now seem overwhelmingly luxurious. My list is by no means complete and is seen through my tiny, rose-colored lens. I am excited for this list to grow as we spend more time in New England. But for now, and in no particular order, are the 10 things I have learned to appreciate, love, and (dare I say?) consider true luxuries about Stowe living.

Click here for my free Stowe Summer Hot Sheet

THE BEST OF STOWE #1: THE RECREATION PATH

Looping gently around the town of Stowe and covering 5.3 scenic miles is the much-loved Rec Path. The path is beautifully maintained and easily accessible. One natural starting point is directly behind the Stowe Community Church, the soaring centerpiece of the village. However, there are countless places to enter and exit the serpentine route.

Sixteen meticulously kept wooden bridges appear intermittently, crying out for photo ops as they arch over clear, stone-filled streams. The low rumble of bikes that pass over the wooden slats would alert me to their oncoming presence. Tots on tricycles would whiz past me, their parents racing to catch up. Bikers, walkers, and runners share the meandering path, which bends and curves around and behind the town’s main streets.

Lovely, hidden picnic spots dot the water’s edge, and I often hear kids splashing and squealing by the banks. A picturesque way to burn calories, the Rec Path has just the right balance of shade and sun, streams and fields, and cows and gardens to keep me entertained for a few hours.

Often, we bike to the back garden of Idletyme Brewing Co., a local restaurant, and enjoy a well-earned drink to cool off. It has an idyllic location on Mountain Road and the Rec Path. Fried pickles tempt me, which is no surprise if you read ahead to little luxury #3. Oversized, soft pretzels come hanging on a stand with various dipping sauces. Daniel always orders a flight of local IPAs from the tap.

THE BEST OF STOWE #2: THE QUIET PATH

If the Rec Path doesn’t conjure up a Norman Rockwell portrait, the Quiet Path certainly does. Built as a low-impact extension of the Rec Path, the mown grass pathways keep the Quiet Path true to its name.

The 1.8-mile panoramic route hugs the perimeter of tall, rapidly-growing cornfields and a burbling stream filled with beaver dams that my dogs always seem to destroy inadvertently. Alpine views are within sight, as is the steeple of the community church in the distance at specific points along the way.

Foot traffic only, whether four-legged or two, is allowed, and I found it amusing to read that dogs need to be under voice or leash control. Voice control is certainly not guaranteed with my two willful dogs, but luckily, I have yet to be reprimanded.

THE BEST OF STOWE #3: THE FARMERS’ MARKET

Sunday mornings quickly became something to look forward to when every day was beginning to feel like a Sunday. What was once a small smattering of vendors has since blossomed into a destination unto itself—the Stowe Farmers’ Market. A gathering of local vegetable producers, cheese vendors, ice cream makers, handmade crafts, and a variety of ethnic food stalls, the market offers different tastes and treats for the widely differing taste buds in my family.

My favorite food stall is Green Mountain Potstickers. Homemade dough that is just the right consistency, and balanced with the optimal amount of fillings—like edamame, scallions, chives, and tofu, for starters. Their scallion pancakes easily compete with those I’d had long ago in Beijing, as do the cold sesame noodle salads topped with julienne-sliced veggies.

The list of vendors and artisans at the Stowe Farmer’s Market has grown since the summer of COVID. Some of my favorites include Two Sons Bakehouse, Sage Farm Goat Dairy, and Stephanie Grace Ceramics. I don’t know how someone could pass by her stall without wanting to buy one of her magnificent porcelain creations. I certainly couldn’t.

The market is open from 10am-2pm from May through October. Go for lunch and be sure to grab a picnic table in the shade.

Click Here For My Free Stowe Summer Hot Sheet

THE BEST OF STOWE #4: SAGE FARM

I discovered that one of the Farmers’ Market vendors is just up the road from our house. Sage Farm Goat Dairy is a picture-perfect, Insta-ready, and family-run goat farm located on Upper West Hill Road. The weathered gray barn/farm store sits neatly next to a field of wildflowers and a tattered wooden fence. A small sign invites customers to walk in. The store is unattended and provides an honesty box alongside the refrigerated case of small-batch artisanal goat cheeses and fresh eggs.

Chickens peck noisily at the ground; some days, we spotted the goats roaming the fields. They have a bucolic spot, those lucky alpine goats. By the smug look on their long faces, I’m guessing that they know it.

THE BEST OF STOWE #5: FROM MARIA’S GARDEN

A pretty, gray, clapboard house sits at the top of Cape Cod Road; the charming roadside flower stand called From Maria’s Garden. Mason jar-filled wildflowers are presented daily, as are hand-cut bouquets and potted plants. A price list and honesty jar sit nearby, and she recently let me know that she has had the honor system in place since 1987—honesty—a popular Stowe theme.

As her website notes, Maria escaped the corporate life in NYC to live a simpler one in Vermont. She is a certified floral designer. Aside from her daily roadside flowers, she designs for weddings and events.

Every time I drive past, I am tempted to buy, and during our first few weeks in Stowe, I did just that. The homespun feeling that radiates from the colorful property is magnetic, and I have often seen Maria’s husband, shears in hand, cutting for the day’s arrangements.

Lately, noticing the variety of wildflowers that are blooming in our own backyard, I’ve started to create my own masterpieces. Although I think I need a little help. I wonder if Maria is available for lessons?

THE BEST OF STOWE #6: STOWE VILLAGE

The village of Stowe has a storybook setting, just the right amount of charm, quaint shops, ice cream parlors, and lively (modern definition: ‘socially distant’ lively) restaurants to wander and explore. Stowe village is slow-paced, an inherent part of its charm.

My son and I bike to breakfast some mornings, passing acres of cornfields and barns, and sit outside at his favorite, Café on Main. We eavesdrop on the locals gossiping over their coffees and Stowe Reporters. Little shops hide behind big shops. Stowe has many lovely historic homes to gawk over; photographing them became another daily pastime.

The Historic Old Depot houses one of my favorite Stowe treasures, Bear Pond Books. Perhaps because it was ‘born’ the same year I was, 1970. Or that it’s a 2nd generation, family-owned, independent bookstore that’s still going strong despite the rise of Amazon. In 35 years, I’ve never visited Stowe without getting lost in the aisles of Bear Pond.

Jennifer Hale, the owner, and her staff handpick the books. Her sweet pup, Tucker, curls up on a bed behind the register. I wonder if he, too, has a say in the book choices, as there are a lot of canine-related tomes. It feels highly curated, warm, and inviting, even on the coldest winter days. I rarely leave empty-handed.

A notable Stowe fact is that neon signs are strictly forbidden. Yet another way that Stowe can maintain its charm. Until I found myself in a non-neon environment, I realized how much of my life is neon-filled. Its absence has been refreshing.

THE BEST OF STOWE #7: STOWE TRAILS

The countless hiking and mountain biking trails could take up a post of their own. Suffice it to say that hiking has become one of my go-to activities over the years, and Stowe has more mountains, gorges, notches, summits, and waterfalls than I have time to tackle.

One morning, Daniel and I hiked to Sterling Pond. A steep, natural rock staircase welcomed us to the 2-mile climb and got my legs fired up faster than I was prepared for. Dense foliage, streams, and wet rocks gave way to tall pines, signaling that the summit was close. Moss-covered stones, fallen tree trunks, wild mushrooms, and a plush carpet of ferns covered the mountain floor. The reward for our efforts was a glorious, serene pond, which, to me, should be called a lake. Whatever it is called, it was a beautiful sight after an arduous climb.

Our next morning of hiking started with a steep, 4.5-mile switchback drive to the top of the Toll Road, followed by an hour-long open vista hike (The Long Trail) to the ‘chin’ of Mt Mansfield. There, we were rewarded with blue skies and 360-degree views of the area. We looked down over the grass-covered winter ski runs and gazed out towards the distant layers of overlapping mountains. My favorite kind of hike—one that both starts and ends at the top. Views rule.

While hiking back towards the car, we passed a man with a butterfly net, who we learned was actually searching for dragonflies. Although not just any dragonfly—he was on a mission to spot a particularly elusive species. Since then, I’ve taken note of the dragonflies I see every day at the pond after not having given them any thought before.

Click Here for My Free Stowe Summer Hot Sheet

THE BEST OF STOWE #8: WILDLIFE, VERMONT-STYLE

Who needs Africa to experience wildlife? In Stowe, I’ve seen beavers, frogs, hummingbirds, dragonflies, chipmunks, cows, gophers, snakes, horses, and even a pair of berry-eating bears. While not the traditional ‘big five,’ wildlife is fascinating regardless of size.

One early morning in July, my walk revealed a world of beaver dams, vivid clusters of fiery tiger lilies, dilapidated barns, and grazing cows. Even if I chose the same route to walk each day, I would inevitably spot something I hadn’t seen the day before, which was due, in part, to the ever-changing light, weather conditions, and bovine behavior.

I stopped mid-run one day to take a photo of a cornfield and found myself at a stand-off with a suspicious gopher. While stretching, later on, I caught a Monarch butterfly feasting on a flower. I never stop in my DC life. In Stowe, I stop and, in doing so, am rewarded with the littlest, most beautiful sights.

THE BEST OF STOWE #9: AL FRESCO DINING

Being such a popular, all-season travel destination, it isn’t surprising that Stowe has restaurants and cafés to suit just about everyone. Having had years of local eating under my belt (literally and figuratively), I came to town armed with a few faves.

The Bistro at Ten Acres has been perched at the junction of Luce Hill Road and Barrows Road for as long as I can remember and has always been my parents’ favorite. We sat outside for dinner, watching a particularly remarkable sunset one night, and wondered what it would be like to cash it all in and make the simple life of Stowe a permanent one.

Even outdoors, the Bistro at Ten Acres feels intimate. A musician played guitar, just far enough from the patio so that we could still have a conversation. The dry summer air made the night memorable, as did my lovely spring pesto over homemade linguini.

At 91 Main Street, California-inspired Plate became a new favorite. The owners, originally from LA, have been in Stowe for years. Their menu is described as being able to satisfy meat lovers and hard-core vegans. I’m not vegan, but I gravitated toward the vegan dishes when we visited. I thought the vegan crab cake starter was a menu highlight, as was the Tofu Ramen and Plate’s interpretation of a veggie burger. The wine list was incredibly well-thought-out, and I’d be lying if I said that didn’t somehow factor into our return throughout the month.

THE BEST OF STOWE #10: MOUNTAIN SCENERY

Bucolic pastoral scenes that appear to be lifted from the canvas of a Wyeth abound. Wispy streaks of yellow grasses and lavender wildflowers lay against green pastures and distant blue skies. This led to an epiphanic moment.

After having spent days wondering why the sunsets seem to be more colorful in Vermont or the clouds more defined, I finally realized that it had nothing to do with the sun or the clouds at all. It’s the scenery against which the sunsets set and the cloud formations sit above that make it more spectacular. The sky can be gorgeous anywhere, like over the NJ Turnpike, for instance, but it wouldn’t look quite as pretty. (No offense, NJ). It’s the surrounding scene that makes it extraordinary.

The late afternoon thunderstorms that pass through mountainous Stowe instantly turn on all of the primary colors of the landscape. At times, we’ve been able to see both the incoming storm and the blue sky at exactly the same time. The dark clouds would inevitably swallow up the sky, and then bright blue would once again emerge.

After one particularly fast and furious morning storm, I witnessed a full rainbow that was so bright that it glowed.

SUMMER ISN’T OVER, YET

Tomorrow, I head back to DC. Our house in Vermont has felt like another world, and the change of scenery has been healthy on many levels. I’ve realized that I can define luxury in more ways than I had thought. Luxury is personal. It’s spotting a photo-worthy pond, buying pickles at a farmers’ market, or goat cheese from a barn with an honesty box.

How do you define luxury? It’s worth finding out.

Click here for my free Stowe summer hot sheet

Interactive Map of My Favorite Stowe Places

Trip map created using Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

June 15, 2024
21 amazing local things to do in Georgetown DC

What are the best things to do in Georgetown, DC’s historic neighborhood? Read on to discover the best shopping, dining, art, and more in one of the most beautiful parts of our nation’s capital.

I grew up in a small town in New Jersey. My earliest hometown memories include Pizza Hut, Friday night high school football games, and hanging out at Dairy Queen. I never gave much thought to my hometown as a destination; it was just where I happened to grow up.

Fast-forward thirty years to Washington, D.C. My new hometown is a pretty impressive destination, worthy of many posts about history, culture, arts, and restaurants. There are endless things to do. Where to start? Georgetown is likely my most indispensable locale. Keep count as I outline 21 of my favorite haunts in one of DC’s prettiest and most historic neighborhoods.

Things to do in Georgetown: Feed Your Soul

Georgetown is a college, pedestrian, shopping, eating, and drinking neighborhood. The streets teem with life at all hours. Late morning, post-Soul Cycle (#1), students line up at South Block (#2) for an Açai Bowl. Kids run amok around Georgetown Waterfront Park along the Potomac River. Tourists snake out the door and up the street at Georgetown Cupcakes (#3). Politicians hold court at Cafe Milano (#4) late into the night.

There’s much history to be discovered as you weave through the narrow streets. Most of Georgetown is laid out in an easy-to-navigate grid, and many Federal-style historic homes feature bronze plaques listing the names and dates of former residents.

Things to do in Georgetown: Get historic

Being a historical neighborhood, it’s understandable that the building codes are restrictive. There are strict rules about what can and cannot be done to the architecture. Some of the streets have the original cable car tracks and cobbled pavement. While pretty, they make for bumpy driving and a downright nightmare for stilettos. Women, be warned.

The two main thoroughfares of the neighborhood are Wisconsin Avenue and M Street. Lined with lamp posts of overgrown baskets of flowers, they make the streets even lovelier to roam.

Lately, more chain stores have descended upon the area. Apple, Vuori, and Lululemon are a few heavy hitters. But the inherent charm remains. For every chain store, there’s still at least one independently owned boutique to complement it.

One store with a long family history is The Phoenix (#5), located on Upper Wisconsin Avenue. Samantha Hays Gushner is the third-generation owner, and the boutique has been in her family since 1955. Ms. Gushner says, “The Phoenix is a thoughtfully curated, sustainable lifestyle brand in a space that inspires creativity and wanderlust.” I couldn’t have said it better, Samantha.

Things to do in Georgetown: Get Baked

Along the C&O Canal, just south of M Street, lies the best-kept caffeinated secret in town. Baked & Wired (#6) (don’t be fooled, there’s no Wi-Fi) draws a local crowd due to its small-batched baked goods and decadent roasts. Lattes, Americanos, espressos, and cappuccinos are all made with loving care by baristas devoted to their craft.

The homemade ‘Hippie Crack’ granola is as addictive as its name implies. The same goes for the oversized cupcakes that compete with nearby Sprinkles and Georgetown Cupcakes. Size-wise, and with creative varieties like Pretty Bitchin’, Uniporn, Dirty Chai, and Texas Sheet Cake, they certainly know their demographics’ taste buds.

Latte in hand, I often walk down the canal path or along the waterfront of the Potomac River. There’s always something different to see as homeowners tirelessly care for their window boxes and gardens. Climbing roses, hydrangeas, and clematis grip the walls for dear life. The brickwork alone would make most builders swoon. A heavy hit of a high-gloss black shutter contrasts sharply against the rich red or charcoal walls.

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Things to do in Georgetown: Take a Culture Break

Blues Alley Jazz Club (#7) lies in a back alley between Wisconsin Street and K Street. It was founded in 1985 by the larger-than-life jazz trumpeter Dizzy Gillespie. Decades later, this supper club is going strong. A friend and jazz talent, Eric Felten, and his 14-piece band (#8) often perform there. We make sure to catch his show each December. It’s the ultimate festive kick-off to the holidays and within striking distance of one of our favorite bistros, Chez Billy Sud.

A few doors down, Hinckley Pottery (#9) is a DC fixture started by owner and uber-talented ceramicist Jill Hinckley. Her Blues Alley location is a former stable dating back to the early 1900s. It’s an artist’s paradise, with high ceilings, natural sunlight, and space to get lost on the wheel for a few hours.

Things to do in Georgetown: Lunch at the Waterfront

For many years, the Georgetown Waterfront (#10) had been an underutilized space and a culinary wasteland for anyone other than a college student on a beer budget. Recently, it added some notable gems. Arguably the best is the high-end seafood restaurant Fiola Mare (#11).

The customer service at Fiola Mare is superlative. The seafood (lobster ravioli being a must-eat) is worthy of a special dinner. My husband often indulges in the decadent Bomboloni, ricotta donuts accompanied by a gooey maple dipping sauce, and vanilla chantilly.

The golden-lit Key Bridge in the distance punctuates the Potomac River view. Often, we see Marine One swoop overhead. Given the choice, a long, leisurely, rosé-infused lunch would be my ideal way to start the weekend.

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Most diners would walk into Fiola Mare and choose a stool at the pretty, airy front bar. However, fewer know about the smaller bar tucked away towards the end of the dining room. It’s our favorite cocktail spot, with Memorial Bridge and The Kennedy Center lit up nearby—a quintessential DC view to go with a Mint Julep.

Things to do in Georgetown: Walk it out

Many homes display American flags that sway in the breeze. Others have window boxes overflowing with lush red and pink roses. In May, the lollipop-lookalike allium towers over the gardens like sentries. Many historic homes boast old-fashioned yet modernized period lantern lighting, with flames flickering as they did 100 years ago.

I’ve lived here for over ten years, yet there is something new to see each day. Churches of every denomination find peace in the side streets. Colorful doors, each making a statement. Ancient, ivy-covered walls and stonework in all colors and levels of distress catch the eye. Walk the backstreets of Georgetown and stumble upon Dumbarton Oaks (#12) along the way.

Things to do in Georgetown: Head To Wisconsin

Starting at Wisconsin and K Streets NW, I often grab a Kale Caesar at SweetGreen (#13). Then, I work my way up the street for an oat milk cappuccino at Compass Coffee (#14). I continue north and head toward the art galleries at the top of Georgetown.

Avant-garde galleries and home decor studios line Wisconsin Avenue, with windowfronts filled with paintings, sculptures, and multi-media art. Window shopping is one of my favorite pastimes in Georgetown.

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Things to do in Georgetown: See stars (and politicians)

Georgetown caters to a college and post-college crowd, which means many loud, jam-packed bars. That said, there are a few spots to enjoy a civilized cocktail and dinner. Michael Mina, the celebrity chef, has a fantastic steakhouse in the Four Seasons Hotel on M Street called Bourbon Steak (#15).

While most hotel bars don’t draw locals, we often find ourselves there with friends. The drinks are inspired, and the service is what you would expect from a hotel of that caliber. Bourbon Steak also has a fabulous, if pricey, menu.

Cafe Milano, a DC institution on Prospect Street NW, has attracted the DC elite and politicians for decades. The established sentiment is deeply ingrained. Any night, you could see Former Treasury Secretary Mnuchin, Former US Senator Al Franken, or a Saudi Prince. The old-world and old-school maitre d’ knows exactly how to run the show, a ballet of political precision.

PC: Lutèce

Dining, au français

Off the canal is Chez Billy Sud (#16), another taste of Europe in America. The convivial dining room draws a local crowd. Chez Billy Sud’s outdoor patio adjacent to the restaurant is idyllic in the summer, with warm lighting and intimate tables.

Brendan L’Etolie’s southern French menu is steeped in traditional fare, like escargots, paté, and mussels. The wine list complements the food, Bordeaux, Cahors, and Burgundy, just waiting to be decanted. Inside, the long dining room is lined on one side by a tall, cushioned banquette, while small tables fill in the remainder of the space. Stepping inside Chez Billy Sud feels like getting out of the city for a few hours.

Georgetown can’t have enough French restaurants. My current go-to for lunch or brunch is Lutèce (#17), a bistro on Wisconsin Avenue. With its simple, modern cuisine in a simple, intimate setting, Michelin-starred chef Matt Conroy and his wife, Pastry Chef Isabel Coss, create a place worthy of starting or finishing a day in Georgetown. My favorite dish is the traditional French Omelet with mushroom fricassée, Boursin, and sabayon, but the entire menu is equally tempting.

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Things to do in Georgetown: M and Wisconsin

Another back alley behind M Street has an impressive grouping of design boutiques and eateries. Cady’s Alley (#18) is accessed down a set of steps discreetly hidden between 33rd and 34th streets on M Street. A few of my faves include Contemporaria, a high-end, modern furniture shop, and Kafé Leopold (#19), an Austrian brunch/lunch spot and bakery where we have a glass of wine or pilsner on the sun-drenched patio.

Georgetown has more to do than eat, drink, and shop. The Old Stone House (#20) dates back to 1765. It’s known to be the oldest unchanged historic home in Washington, D.C. Currently, it’s a house museum with a pretty, if tiny, garden and a magnificent magnolia tree that blooms every April.

The Key Bridge Boat House, along K Street and the Potomac River, is a place to rent stand-up paddle boards or kayaks. One of the most unique nights in the nation’s capital was renting kayaks on July 4th to watch the fireworks launched over the Kennedy Center. Every motorboat, canoe, and kayak claimed the ‘best seat in the house, ‘ all sharing the Potomac River for a festive, pyrotechnic night.

Beyond (the Grave) in DC

Maybe you’ve seen all there is to see in Georgetown and are looking for something genuinely off-the-beaten-path to round out your trip to the Nation’s Capital? Join a DC Ghost Tour (#21) and get to know the deep, dark, and chilling past of Washington DC. With multiple locations within the Beltway and more than enough haunted hotels, pubs, and streets to prowl, this just may be the highlight of your trip.

Hometown High

As I think back to my Jersey hometown and how it shaped me as a kid, I can’t help but wonder how DC will shape mine. Growing up in a large city versus a small, ‘everyone-knows-your-story’ town are two ends of a spectrum. I guess we’re all a product of our hometown. While I’m sure my kids will be running for the door as I did, I hope they take a moment to appreciate where they grew up.

Somehow, I doubt it.

Looking for more to do in and around Georgetown?

Click below for direct access to some of the best tours in the city!

Self-Guided Audio Walking Tour of Georgetown

Taste of Georgetown Walking Food Tour

Historic Georgetown: History, Gossip & Architecture Tour

Washington Private Tour of Basilica, Cathedral and Embassy Row

Self-Guided Audio Tour of the National Mall

Steal My Georgetown Itinerary—For Only $10, All the Local Knowledge You Need to Visit is in This E-guide!

What To Do in Georgetown: My Interactive Map

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

June 6, 2024

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