I am Lost and Found

Category: Wander North America

A Local’s Guide: These Places Will Make You Fall for Stowe

In 30 days, I’m moving to Stowe.

If my teenage self knew she’d one day be living in rural Vermont, she’d laugh that layer of AquaNet right off her teased head. That girl wasn’t destined for the slow life. She wouldn’t be caught dead in Muck Boots slogging along snow-covered roads. She’d be clicking down city sidewalks in stilettos.

Forty years later, that girl is a middle-aged woman. Now I’m the one laughing. Part giddiness and part nervous energy. How did I get here? What am I going to do in Vermont? And where can I get a cute pair of Muck Boots?

I’ve traveled to Stowe, Vermont, since childhood. But I’m just as surprised as that sassy teenager I’m choosing to live there permanently. Big cities have defined my decades—the aforementioned Manhattan sidewalks in my 20s and early 30s. Raising a family in Tokyo in my 40s, and then punching through 50 in the political maelstrom of DC. Each of these places has surpassed expectations. I have no doubt Stowe will follow suit.

Ok, maybe a little bit of doubt.

What I don’t doubt is the beauty of Vermont, and Stowe in particular. Stowe encapsulates New England charm. Don’t believe me? Ask any of the nearly one million visitors who flock to it each year. There are plenty of reasons to fall for Stowe. For those who don’t already know its wonders, allow me to introduce you.

I’ll start with Fall.

A Stowe for All Seasons

Stowe is a year-round destination. In winter, Mt. Mansfield dominates, with 116 runs over 485 acres of skiable terrain. The mountain appeals to all ski skill levels, and has enough snowshoeing trails and non-skiing activities to please any winter traveler. There’s just as much to do off the slopes as on them.

The village is a holiday postcard, with the Community Church acting like Santa’s beacon. When it’s lit up on a snowy night, the steeple casts an ethereal glow over Main Street. It feels as if you’ve stepped into an old winter’s tale.

In summer, bikers, hikers, dogs, and walkers share the Recreation and Quiet Paths that loop the town. The paths are dotted with low arching bridges over bubbling streams and wispy, golden fields. Layers of green mountains unfold in every direction.

Fall is Extraordinary

But Fall. Well, Fall is extraordinary. From September through late October, Stowe glows, fully aware it’s her moment to shine. Leaves the color of a golden retriever’s coat fall from skies whose only intention is to show them off.

In the Fall, the village is a hive of activity. Shoppers spill out of Bear Pond Books, arms piled high with fiction and fantasy. Kids ogle over jars of old-fashioned sweets at Stowe Mercantile, and wannabe interior designers fawn over the farm-chic wares at Farm Home Co.. Pumpkins pop up along West Hill Road, cradled in patches that conjure up Charlie Brown’s Halloween antics. Crumbling red barns make our hearts skip a beat and add a cinematic touch to the country scene.

But also in the Fall, Stowe becomes a wee bit challenging to navigate. The restaurants book up, and sharing the road becomes a lesson in kindness. But kindness abounds—because everyone is just so damn happy. Kaleidoscopic colors lining a historic Main Street just bring out the best in people, I guess. Even the New Yorkers.

There’s no shortage of blog posts and magazine articles describing Stowe in the Fall. It’s a small town; the best places to stay, dine, drink, and hike are easily Google-able. But local knowledge always rules—and local knowledge I have. Forty years of it, in fact. Soon enough, my local knowledge will get even more refined, as we pack our bags and drive as far north as we can without a passport.

Whether you’ve already been to Stowe or are planning your first trip, here are my favorite haunts, drives, hikes, views, and ways to get the most out of a Fall Stowe getaway. Prepare to fall in love.

Go Stowe

How many towns have their own logo? Surely there are none as recognizable, timeless, and with as much gravitas as Stowe’s. The ‘Flying S,’ as it’s often called, was initially designed by a German-born artist named Sascha Maurer, who created posters for U.S. ski resorts.

The logo first appeared in the 1950s and has since been used to market and brand Stowe. As a former graphic designer, I admire how the ‘S’ evokes the downhill swish of a ski turn. As a former advertising exec, I appreciate how the tagline, ‘Go Stowe,’ serves as both an invitation and a rallying cry to explore.

So, let’s explore.

Quench Your Thirst

Hot Chocolate Break: ‘Tis the season for dark chocolate pumpkins and Bourbon caramels. Lake Champlain Chocolate is a Main Street boutique that has been an ongoing ode to chocolate since 1983, about the time I started visiting Stowe. Travel + Leisure may have named it ‘America’s Best Hot Chocolate,’ but if I were you, I’d do some personal research. Don’t skip the colorful Stowe mural hidden around the side of the building—a family selfie moment you won’t regret, no matter how much your kids cringe.

A Shot of Espresso at Café On Moscow: This teeny-tiny coffee-and-sandwich shop on the outer edge of Stowe is far enough away from the maddening crowds to feel like you’ve discovered it first. Beyond great coffee, baked goods, and sandwiches, they sell a handful of crafts from local artisans and have a few outdoor tables to soak up the sun. There are lots of great country roads nearby to get lost among the leaves.

Pop-Up Pastries: Whereabouts is a nighttime speakeasy that transforms into a pop-up coffee and bakehouse on Friday mornings. Local entrepreneur, Hannah Mitrani, cleverly roped in nearby Hyde Park’s Two Sons to showcase their buttery baguettes, scones, and muffins. Open from 8am til every crumb is gone—set your alarm.

Orange is the New Black (Cap): Coffee is always in season, but with its badass brews and front porch views, the Black Cap Café was made for Fall. The line might snake out the door, but resist the temptation to cross the street to a soulless franchise. Black Cap coffees, sandwiches, and baked goods are worth the wait. Women-owned and women-powered, with a shot of Chaggaccino or VT maple syrup. You’re on holiday—what’s the rush?

Legendary Brews: The Alchemist got its start in nearby Waterbury, but now offers its cult-following Heady Topper, among other IPAs, from its Stowe location. What’s all the fuss? Well, Heady Topper’s distribution is small and has consistently ranked among the world’s best beers—two valid reasons to seek it out. True beer-bros will want to book a brewery tour. Check the website for details.

It’s All About the Leaves

Fall Into Step: The Quiet and Rec Paths are two trail systems that capture what makes Stowe so special. I’d be lying if I said this scenic duo isn’t partially responsible for my move to Stowe. There isn’t a season they disappoint me, not a weather condition I’m not awed by. The mornings when a low sheath of fog slowly lifts above the mountains are one of my favorite sights. And when shards of sunlight break through the cover, it’s proof of a Higher Power if there ever was one.

The Stowe Recreation Path stretches 5.3 miles—a gentle ribbon of pavement perfect for biking, walking, or simply sitting on a bench to watch the leaves drift down. There are several access points, but one of the prettiest is just behind the Stowe Community Church, where the canopy blazes with color. Be sure to turn around as you wander—you’ll find one of the most iconic photo angles of the church steeple as you look back towards town.

The Quiet Path is just that: quiet. Reserved for walkers, both two-legged and four, it’s a peaceful counterpoint to the lively Rec Path. Park at the Mayo Farm Road lot (near the intersection of Weeks Hill Road), and meander along the edges of open cornfields. Slip down to the rocky stream bank, and you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of verdant Mount Mansfield.

Get Lost: Percy Farm’s famous corn maze will delight visitors of all ages—unless corn mazes scare the bejeesus out of you, like they do me. If that’s the case, sit at a picnic table and let your crew test their sense of direction and battle claustrophobia.

Located just off the Mountain Road, visitors can pull into the Thompson Park lot and follow the Recreation Path north on foot. Cross a small bridge, and the maze will be on your left. Don’t forget your camera; the Fall foliage here is unbeatable.

Worcester Views Rule: Speaking of Percy and his farm, I consider the best spot to admire the Worcester mountain range to be at the intersection of Weeks Hill and Percy Hill Roads, where Percy’s barn once stood. From here, you can see the expanse of the range, which in the Fall is lit up to perfection. Not long ago, Percy’s historic barn burned down, but the iconic dairy cows remain. I hear the bears are envious that the cows have the best views around. Those bovines always do look pretty smug.

Parker’s Barn is Falling Down: Parker’s Barn’s days are numbered. Literally numbered. Built in 1875 and located on West Hill Road near Mayo Farm, this weathered Stowe icon has seen better days. While the town decides its fate, make a detour. In the fall, Weeks Hill is alive with color, and Parker’s pigeon-filled barn stands as a striking foreground to Green Mountain views.

The Money Shot: Looking for the best steeple view? My go-to spot is from the parking lot at Tangerine & Olive, a mountain road boutique just a bit beyond Stowe’s famous covered bridge. While there, be sure to show this sweet shop some love. Tangerine & Olive has unique adventure-driven items you won’t find anywhere else in town. If you decide to drive, use the dedicated parking area just before the store; otherwise, I might get blacklisted from Stowe before I even get there.

Golden Hour SkyRide: You won’t burn any calories to get these views, but your heart will race anyway. The Stowe Gondola SkyRide in autumn is distractingly beautiful, with views of rolling hills blanketed in burnt reds, rich golds, and fiery oranges. On clear days, you can see for miles—past the patchwork of the Green Mountains, over the valley floor, and toward the distant Adirondacks. Go at golden hour or in the morning for peak pics.

Through The Notch: Smuggler’s Notch is the stuff of legends—one of Vermont’s most dramatic mountain passes and, at one time, a notorious Prohibition smuggling route. Today, the leaf-obsessed can drive this winding corridor of towering cliffs, enormous, prehistoric boulders, and lush forests. Once winter arrives, the Notch closes to vehicular traffic, so grab your hiking boots or snowshoes to tackle it on foot. The scenery will be worth it, and your heart will thank you.

Where to Burn Calories

Top of the Mountain: This scenic drive along the Auto Toll Road has 4.5 miles of switchbacks and hairy curves that take you to the summit ridge of Mt. Mansfield. The colors along the ride are astounding, and since you aren’t going much faster than 20 mph, you’ll have lots of time to admire them. ‘That doesn’t sound very active,’ you’re thinking. Just hang on.

Arriving at the top is just the beginning of this Stowe Mountain exclusive. From the parking lot, hike the Long Trail to the ‘chin’ of the mountain. The hike undulates, passing through narrow pine-laden spots and open rocky plateaus. You don’t have to hike all the way to the chin for stunning scenery (or to burn calories), but if you do, sit and stay for a while. An open panorama of layered blues and greens, along with views of Lake Champlain in the distance, will have you spinning in circles trying to take it all in.

Hikers’ Warning: Not all trails come with a warning, but the Cliff Trail’s is well-deserved. I didn’t want to hike the Cliff Trail, but I’m married to someone who often ~~nudges~~ ~~pushes~~ throws me beyond my comfort zone—something about him I simultaneously love and hate.

I can testify to the Cliff Trail’s rigor. It follows a very steep, exposed 1.1-mile route that had me climbing iron rungs and gasping across rock gaps. It had me cursing my husband—and wondering how my cardio had plummeted so drastically, given that I practically live in an Equinox. But when I finished, I felt superhuman, and devoured an entire pizza on the way home.

There are several ways to access this short yet steep hike. One is from the parking lot at the top of the Toll Road (bring a map; I wouldn’t be able to find the trailhead without one), and the other is from a trail near the top of the gondola. Whichever you choose, bring water, wear hiking shoes, and don’t forget sunscreen.

The Pinnacle: Stowe Pinnacle is one of Vermont’s most rewarding short hikes—especially in the Fall, when the landscape explodes with color. This round-trip hike is 3.7 miles with a steady uphill ascent, including some rocky scrambles. The reward for your effort? The most fabulous views of Mount Mansfield from an open bouldered ledge. Just be sure to follow the same color trail markers back down the mountain. I’m not going to get into specifics, but let’s just say a disagreement about the color blue almost cost me my marriage.

All About Ranch Camp: Ranch Camp is the cycling hub of Stowe. It also serves some of the best lunches in town. I never miss a chance to order The Rock, a grain bowl piled high with everything I love: fresh avocado, black beans, arugula, corn salsa, and brown basmati rice. The menu is custom-made to celebrate the completion of any Stowe activity, even if that activity is driving up the Toll Road.

Ranch Camp rents bikes and E-bikes, so no need to tow your own if you want to take on Stowe’s mountain trails. Cady Hill Forest is one of Stowe’s most popular biking trails, and it’s conveniently accessed behind Ranch Camp. Often referred to as the ‘maple jungle,’ this trail system is peaceful, lush, and intimate.

Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

The Butler’s Breakfast: I don’t usually eat breakfast, but the first thing I’m going to do when I move to Stowe is beeline to The Butler’s Pantry for buttermilk pancakes drenched in Vermont maple syrup. There’s always a wait, so it must be worth it.

To help ease the pain of waiting, however, their website has a ‘Join the Waitlist’ link, which I interpret as an excuse to walk along Main Street and build up an appetite. Beyond pancakes, Butler’s Pantry serves other morning delights like Challah French Toast, Three-Egg Omelets, and Biscuits and Gravy.

Ranch Camp Refresh: I already sang the praises of Ranch Camp, but it deserves an encore. I never, ever, don’t eat lunch at Ranch Camp when I’m in Stowe. I’m considering asking whether they have any job openings, so I can offset how much I spend there. Don’t miss Cody’s Crunch Wrap. It’s a twofer—so big you can save half for tomorrow’s breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

The Hills Are Alive: Yes, those hills are in Stowe, too. Everyone knows about Trapp’s Family Lodge. So instead, try the gloriously understated and intimate Edson Hill for dinner. The dining room is beautiful, everything a Vermont lodge should be. Despite its long history in Stowe, Edson Hill has kept up with the times without losing its warm elegance.

In the Fall, Edson Hill’s 38 acres exude Vermont country charm. New England flavors with a twist are on order; try the Maine Lobster Hand Roll with Yuzu, Shiso, and Spicy Furikake, Trumpet Mushroom Tempura, or the Roasted Hudson Valley Chicken with Sunchokes and Roasted Brussel Sprouts. Save room for Sticky Toffee Pudding. Edson Hill also has gorgeous cottages and rooms—if I didn’t live in Stowe, this is where I’d stay.

Getting Granular

I only know a handful of practical, hyper-local tips about Stowe. But watch this space. I’m going to be a ruthless tip collector once I get there. Do you already live in my future hometown? What can I add? Drop me a note!

Parking Matters: If you don’t find a spot on Main Street, don’t lose hope. Try the public parking behind the Community Church, or the lot behind Shaw’s and the Green Mountain Inn. There’s another lot located near the Post Office on Depot Street. May the parking gods be with you!

Avoid Road Rage: Fall is one of Stowe’s most popular times of year for tourism, so traffic is a given. If you want to avoid losing your mind, consider the time of day you drive into Stowe and around town. The stop sign at Mountain Road and Main Street is particularly infuriating in the afternoons. Get out early, wear your comfiest sneakers, and walk. Smile.

Self-Catering, Stowe-Style: Shaw’s Supermarket is not the only place to stock up on groceries for your Airbnb or rental (thank God). We love Commodities for produce and specialty items. Yes, it’s pricier. But the produce is fresh, and the parking lot is easy.

Basement Wines: Not basement prices, but the wines found at Fine Wine Cellars will suit all of your vino-related needs. This family-run business on the Mountain Road started as a hobby and, over the years, expanded beyond wine by adding a cute gift shop. The earthy cellar is the real deal, complete with low ceilings, the scent of bold tannins, and the faint aroma of fermented yeast—awakening senses that true oenophiles will appreciate and will make the rest of us sneeze.

Tracking Color: If you have flexibility in your vacation plans, consider using a Fall Foliage tracker before you commit to a travel date. There’s definitely some risk using this tactic, as many Stowe hotels book up quite far in advance. Grab a Farmer’s Almanac and start researching, or take your best guess. Either way, it’s nice to have some idea of the color by tracking previous year’s color paths.

Good Things Come With Age

In 30 days, I’m moving to Stowe. I’m trading my Manolos for Muck Boots and my insecurities for a sense of adventure.

Wine isn’t the only thing that gets better with age. As I’ve matured, I’ve come to appreciate things my younger self wouldn’t have given a flying fig about: a crimson-tinged maple leaf, a misty morning fog, and a pine-filled trail that opens onto a vast panorama. I’ve realized that beauty is something I can observe, not something I have to possess.

I’ve spent decades enjoying big-city life and all that comes with it: jam-packed restaurants, buzzy bars, and sleek, modern gyms. Now, small-town life sounds divine. I’m ready for cozy dining rooms, local watering holes, and more trails than I’ll ever have time to hike. I understand the appeal of getting into flannel PJs at 5pm. Wait, doesn’t everyone?

What I love about my future hometown goes far beyond that, though. Beyond colorful leaves, pumpkin patches, and dog walks on quiet paths. I recognize that I crave different things than I used to. Although I don’t know exactly what my life will look like in Stowe, I know I’ll figure it out when I get there.

Think about taking a drive north. Fall in Vermont is undeniably beautiful, and Stowe oozes New England charm. To my DC peeps: I’m not expecting visitors every weekend, but I sure wouldn’t mind it. Mark your calendars. I’ll save a seat for you at Ranch Camp.

Maybe you’ll fall for Stowe, too.

Get My E-Guide: The Ultimate Non-Skier’s Guide to Stowe

5 Stowe FAQs:

How do I get to Stowe?
Stowe is about a 45-minute drive from Burlington International Airport (BTV). Fly into Burlington, rent a car, and you’ll be winding through mountain roads in no time.

What’s the population of Stowe?
Just under 6,000 people call Stowe home. Small town. Big personality.

How big is Stowe?
Stowe covers about 72 square miles—about the size of San Francisco, just with more maple trees and fewer tech bros.

Do I need a car?
Yes. While the main village is walkable, most of Stowe’s best spots—trails, farms, covered bridges—are a short drive away. Having a car is key.

Is Stowe dog-friendly?
Very. You’ll find trails, patios, and even inns that welcome your four-legged BFFs.

October 24, 2025
It Takes a (Kona) Village: The Big Island’s Most Well-Loved Property Gets a New Life

Why is Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort, so well-loved? Maybe it’s their prized location, a crescent bay where the Pacific Ocean stretches into the horizon without interruption. Or, the well-appointed ‘hales’ and locally-sourced cuisine. Maybe it’s the staff who welcome every guest with a natural smile. It’s all of that, and more. But what truly sets Kona Village apart is its connection to the past, where the traditions of this former fishing village are literally etched into the island’s volcanic landscape.

We peel off the long, flat highway. The sun is strong and high overhead. It would be simple to say the landscape is black and leave it at that. It’s more than black. It’s layers of charcoal, soot, and smoke. Its textures are made of craggy, cratered, and coarse rocks. Dry grasses struggle to take root in spaces between them, adding a wisp of gold to the otherwise bleak terrain. Petroglyphs scrawled on flat boulders evoke an ancient blackboard. Fields of lava tumble towards the sea, frozen in time.

Beyond the lava fields, palm trees rise like a mirage sprung to life—their green fronds swaying, vibrant and alive against the mighty Pacific. Kona’s history is one of devastation, renewal, and resilience. The energy here feels sacred.

Another left. Then, a long palm tree-lined road leads to Kona Village. A few Premier League hopefuls kick a ball across grass so perfectly green and manicured, I’m convinced it’s fake. Ahead, the Kahuwai Bay comes into view.

The History of Kona Village

Johnno and Helen Jackson happened upon Kahuwai Bay in 1965, arriving on their schooner after sailing the South Pacific. On the site of an abandoned village, they built Kona Village Resort—a secluded retreat that thrived for decades, drawing visitors from around the world to their sliver of Hawaiian paradise.

That is, until March of 2011, when a tsunami ripped through the Big Island of Hawaii, taking Kona Village Resort with it. The land lay barren and vacant, waiting patiently for its next chapter.

Twelve years later, Rosewood recaptures the beauty and traditions of the past and rebuilds Kona Village. It restores the property thoughtfully, with raised hales (thatched Hawaiian huts) that complement the landscape. It brings in local artisans, solar power, and green initiatives. But most importantly, it honors Kona’s history.

Today, village life thrives again in and around the Kahuwai Bay. Whether found in carved stones or imprinted in the dark skies overhead, Kona Village may have been reimagined, but it hasn’t lost its soul.

Setting the Scene(ry) at Rosewood Kona Village

Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort, has 150 villas and suites across 81 lava rock-covered acres. Low-arching bridges connect lagoons. A volcanic mountain range looms in the distance. Despite being the height of spring break, there isn’t a time during our stay that the resort feels overcrowded.

Black-crowned night herons hunch over the lagoon like statues, foraging for frogs and insects. Koloa Maoli ducks glide across the water. A train of baby Francolin follows Mama Francolin, leaving little tracks in the sand. White egrets with golden beaks fly past low palms filled with red-crested cardinals. I geek out with my binoculars, embracing my inner birder with pride.

Complimentary cruising bikes can be found throughout Kona Village. As hard as it is to leave the lagoon, I grab one and start exploring. The resort’s oceanside looks and feels like another planet. Villas on this side of Kona Village have infinity pools and quiet beaches dotted with stone fire pits and sun loungers facing the sea.

The shoreline is encrusted with lava rocks, black sand beaches, arched stone caves, and lava tubes.

The Pacific Ocean crashes violently against the rocks. In the distance, I see Mauna Kea, a volcano that last erupted 4500 years ago. I think it’s due, and only hope this isn’t the week Mother Nature has scheduled her next performance.

It’s wild and untamed. Desolate and raw. Completely unlike my Disney-esque lagoon. I love them both for different reasons.

Lagoon Life

I’d thought long and hard about our room choice at Kona Village. Had we not just spent three nights sea-facing on Maui, I would have most likely chosen an oceanfront villa. Who stays in Hawaii and doesn’t opt for an ocean view?

But the lagoon villa surprises me. The entrance is discreetly tucked away among the flowers and trees. The raised lagoon-facing deck spans the length of the villa, optimal for birding. Wooden slatted walls, a warm, neutral palette, and contemporary decor are a study in timeless understatement. Every book, lamp, and piece of furniture looks hand-picked.

Bowls of ripe fruit, cocktail mixers, and fresh flowers are details worth savoring. The living space is open and airy, and our bathroom has a concrete standalone tub and outdoor shower. It’s twice the size of my first NYC apartment.

This is the magic of Kona. Despite its size, everything feels small, welcoming, and intimate. Like a village.

Kona History, in Surround Sound

The Kona Village Resort encourages a conversation with the past. With 22 anchialine pools and 21 archeological sites across the property, the lands are not only well-maintained but well-loved. One morning, I stumble upon an area once the site of a village kitchen. Later, I see a pockmarked slab of stone that reminds me of checkers. A nearby plaque confirms it was a traditional board game.

Not far from the lagoon, I find a raised wooden boardwalk where ancient petroglyphs are carved into stones and slabs. Ala Hele Papa is an on-property open-air museum, filled with archaeological treasures. These petroglyphs reveal the stories of the past.

One carving, Honu I Ka ‘Upena, shows a sea turtle in an intricate net pattern. Another, Hapi Kanaka, depicts a burial procession—two human figures carrying a third between them.

There are 440 documented drawings in the area, some of which are almost 1,000 years old. Rosewood binds the art and stories of the past to the present day. The petroglyphs and relics are complemented by common areas filled with bold and dramatic modern art.

Nearly all the commissioned artwork around the property is created by artists who are native Hawaiians or current residents.

In Hawaii, Jetlag is your BFF

I head to The Market around 7am, ready to embrace the day with the help of a strong cappuccino. The Market is Kona’s hub, located beachside and stocked with baked goods and complimentary fresh fruit alongside matchas, espressos, and cold brews.

The Market opens at 5:30am. Anywhere else, this would seem absurd. But in Hawaii, most of the guests have traveled from mainland USA and are jetlagged. 7am Hawaii Standard Time (HST) looks and feels like lunchtime Eastern Standard Time (EST). Kids run amok. Snorkels pop out of the water. Some intrepid travelers have already returned from a morning hike.

On (and Off) Property at Kona Village

As one would expect from a world-class resort, endless activities, excursions, spa treatments, and water sports are on hand. The tiered adults-only pool is steps from the beach. After our fair share of adventures on the Road to Hana the previous week, we’re happy to do the bare minimum: eat, drink, caffeinate, and sunbathe.

We get off property a few times, if only to justify the rental car. Those excursions are worth it. We see more of the island’s beauty, hike beside royal burial grounds, and watch a giant sea turtle play in a shallow rock pool. Natural beauty and wildlife are ever-present in Kona.

But there’s nothing like coming ‘home’ after a few hours away. It was especially important to get to Talk Story Bar, Kona Village’s beach cocktail shack, before sunset. I’ll always remember Talk Story as the place I saw the green flash—a phenomenon that occurs when the sun’s final rays disappear into the horizon. Until that night at precisely 6:42pm, I was convinced it was pure myth.

Moana, Shipwrecks, and Cowboys

There are three restaurants at Rosewood Kona Village. Over our five nights, we eat twice at open-air Moana, twice at beachfront Kahuwai Cookhouse, and on our final night, score a coveted seat at the Shipwreck Bar for sushi. This shipwreck is no beach gimmick. It’s Johnno Jackson’s beloved schooner, restored as a place to gather and imbibe—a nod to the resort’s fishing village past.

At Kahuwai Cookhouse, wooden tables dig into the sand under twinkling lights mimicking the constellations overhead. The menu celebrates Hawaii’s cowboy (paniolo) culture with Hawaiian specialties, like huli huli chicken and steak tacos.

Restaurant Moana may double as a breakfast venue, but it feels completely different at dinner time. It serves Pacific Rim-to-table cuisine with sustainably sourced ingredients. The high-pitched roof, open-air setting, and amber lighting create a vibe worth dressing up for. Meals are long and relaxed. The lapping waves provide a lulling soundtrack to accompany the clinking glasses and low laughter.

Did I mention the flip side of jetlag? Everyone is asleep by 9pm.

Daily Rhythms

The days take on the slow island rhythm I crave after our many near-death experiences on the Road to Hana. Early mornings with the sunrise and the birds. The Market for coffee and a leisurely breakfast at Moana. A few hours in the sun, then a stroll along the bay searching for shells.

Later, beachside ceviche with a bottle of chilled wine. A nap (because why not?) under a thatched umbrella. Reading, biking, swimming, and scouting for sea turtles and whales. More birding. More biking. Sunset at Talk Story Bar and then another dinner under the stars. This pace is so unlike my real life. What a vacation is meant to be.

It Takes a Village

I grab my last Kona cappuccino and scan the horizon for whales. I’m so busy looking into the distance, I nearly miss a seal belly-rolling towards the shore less than ten yards away. She bounces her weight back and forth using her flippers to propel her massive body onto the beach.

This is 403, a regular guest at Kona Village. She’s an endangered monk seal, one of only ten around the islands, and she’s ready for a nap after a long swim from Maui.

The beach staff springs into action. “It takes a village,” the young, shirtless Hawaiian says with a smile, as he cordons off the area around her. (Not creative license, he really said that!) A quiet crowd gathers. Cameras click. Then, just as naturally, village life resumes. 403 may nap for up to 24 hours. And while she takes up prime beach real estate, no one seems to mind.

Kona Village is a sacred place. I imagine the villagers who lived here centuries ago. They left behind a road map in their petroglyphs and carvings. An insight into their lives. Those who visit Hawaii’s Kona Village can retrace their paths. Follow in their steps. Their fishing village may no longer exist, but it’s honored here.

A new life, built on the memories of the past.

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May 27, 2025
Don’t Drive Maui’s Road to Hana Without This One Simple Thing

I wrestle with my iPhone, trying to connect it to CarPlay as we race out of the Enterprise parking garage. Speed bumps ignored, the Jeep lurches and bounces like a bronco at a Texas rodeo. Was a 4×4 really necessary? The answer will be clear soon enough, but suffice it to say—hell, yeah!

Finally, I pair successfully and set up the Shaka Guide—an app designed to expertly navigate the Road to Hana—a drive on eastern Maui known for its crazy switchbacks, towering waterfalls, and dramatic landscapes.

‘It’s about the journey, not the destination,’ I tell my husband and daughter for the umpteenth time. They scowl. This is new territory for Daniel, who thinks the destination is the destination. I close my eyes and practice square breathing.

Shep Who?

When we exited Kahului Airport after twelve hours on two planes, an overnight in Waikiki, and an ungodly early morning hop to Maui, we were understandably tired (aka grumpy, under-caffeinated, and hangry). But we were on Maui. Who can complain?

I thought of my dad. As he’s mentioned more than once, one of his fraternity brothers lives on Maui. “Would you be able to meet up with Shep? You know, my fraternity brother, Shep? You’d love Shep. He’s a great guy.”

My dad has a weekly Zoom with his college buddies. And although I don’t think anyone aside from my dad gets a chance to speak, Shep is a name I hear often. My dad has great friends, all of whom are impressive and unique. My dad is a great friend. He’s also impressive and unique. Unfortunately, we don’t have time to see Shep on this trip, I tell my dad. We are driving the Road to Hana. Plus, I’m sure Shep has things to do.

So when we stumble wearily from the plane, our carry-ons and neck pillows trailing behind us, I jump when Ella shouts, “Oh my god, Mom, look!” I follow her gaze. The wall ahead has a banner that reads ‘Maui Nui Hall of Fame’ above a grid of portraits. Sandwiched between Woody Harrelson and Paul Simon is Shep. Shep Gordon. Hollywood talent manager, film agent, and producer.

Oh, and loyal fraternity brother to one Barry Lyman.

But First, (Kona) Coffee

Our hotel in Hana can take up to eight hours to reach, depending on how many fun stops one makes along the way. That’s the point of the Shaka App, I tell Daniel, ‘fun stops.’ Places to watch waterfalls, swim, hike, walk a black sand beach, climb through lava caves, and explore. It’s the journey, the journey, the journey…

This is how I knew we wouldn’t be able to meet Shep. I’d be happy if Daniel stopped for breakfast.

A perky male voice pipes up in surround sound, “Aloha! Welcome to the Shaka Guide’s Road to Hana driving tour!” Whoa, it’s too early in the morning for that kind of tone. I lower the volume. “It’s going to be a great day on our drive and tour together!” the voice continues. Ella and Daniel look nervous. I’m as thrilled as Victoria Ratliff clutching her first G+T of the day. This is going to be fantastic.

“Our trusty, albeit overeager, guide needs a name,” I say. “We’ll be listening to him for hours. Any ideas?”

“Shep!” Ella and Daniel shout in unison.

So begins our adventure along the Road to Hana.

Maui’s Most Famous Road

In the 1500s, Maui’s King Piʻilani initiated the construction of what was essentially a long, dirt footpath across Eastern Maui. The path was about 5 feet wide and stretched over 138 miles, enabling travel and trade across the island. By the 1870s, the road was improved, yet still unpaved.

It would remain that way until 1926, the official opening of ‘The Road to Hana,’ when groundwork and bridge construction were implemented for a more passable route. (I guess crossing rivers and streams by rope swing got old quickly.) Fast forward to the 1960s—a fully paved, albeit harrowing, road was complete.

By the numbers, the Road to Hana is impressive. This 64.4-mile scenic tropical drive that connects Kahului to Hana town has 620 curves (some with switchbacks that double back on themselves), 59 bridges (46 of which are single lane), over 18 waterfalls, countless beaches (some with black sand), bamboo forests, marbled eucalyptus trees, and ocean views.

Divorce Highway

Hana Highway’s switchbacks, sweetly rebranded as curves, had been on my mind since I booked the trip. Daniel and I have braved many death-defying, hair-raising, and winding roads: Corsica, Mexico, and Mallorca are a few standouts. We survived them, but not without a few heated discussions. I think he drives too fast; he thinks I worry too much about his driving too fast. We’re both right. But being right hardly matters when I’m convinced we’re about to launch off a cliff every 45 seconds.

Having Shep alert us of upcoming sharp turns and single-lane bridges eases my mind. He even describes how to share the road with the locals, who careen around curves like Formula One hopefuls.

I’ll let Shep tell Daniel to slow down, tell us where the nearest bathrooms are, and where we should stop for a snack. And he does. Hence, the Road to Hana, sometimes dubbed ‘Divorce Highway,’ is a pretty pleasant ride. Shep, if I didn’t thank you earlier, hear me now. You saved my marriage.

Navigating the Road to Hana With The Shaka Guide

Over the next three days, the Shaka Guide becomes our lifeline—highlighting 33 tour stops and 125 Tour Audio Points over 10-12 hours. I know what you’re thinking. Did Shep talk for 10-12 hours? In the downtime between talking points, the Shaka Guide played traditional Hawaiian music. The ukulele and drums set the tone—soft, rhythmic, and pure aloha vibes.

Since the Shaka app is connected to Google Maps, Shep always knew exactly where we were. Even if we didn’t. Even when it bordered on creepy. “Ignore the row of illegally parked cars ahead on the right,” Shep instructed. Then, reading my mind. “Don’t worry; better examples of marbled eucalyptus are ahead.” Sure enough, a few cars were stopped on the right, just like Shep said.

I have to give the Shaka Guide props; this kind of attention to detail is hard to pull off in real-time. To say we got more out of the drive than if we’d been reading a traditional guidebook is an understatement.

We would have missed critical turn-offs on a road where backtracking isn’t an option. We’d have missed magical views while arguing who has the right of way on 46 single-lane bridges. And we would have missed some stops altogether, clueless about what lay beyond the next bend.

It’s not called Divorce Highway for nothing.

The Road to Hana: Starting Out

The Road to Hana officially starts at mile marker 0. Shep tells us not to worry if the marker is missing, as travelers sometimes take it as a souvenir. We stop in Paʻia Town to grab a coffee and provision up. This is the first and only town we will see before we reach Hana Town in 6-7-8 hours. And although there are promises of huli-huli chicken and banana bread stands along the route, there’s no way I’m letting hanger ruin our journey.

Thanks to advanced planning, we had reserved The Hana-Maui Resort for three nights. Hana-Maui is the only traditional resort in Hana Town. With only 66 rooms and suites, it’s 620 hell-ish curves back to Paʻia Town if you don’t book one.

Check Hana-Maui Resort Availability here

Approaching Mile Marker 0

Our first stop is Hoʻokipa Beach, just off the highway past Paʻia Town. Roosters roam the gravelly parking lot, pecking with intention, while the Pacific Ocean surges below. Although called the ‘windsurfing capital of the world,’ we only see surfers sitting in the lineup and a few napping monk seals.

We return to the Jeep and drive towards the turn-off to the legendary surf break, Jaws. During the winter, we learn the waves here can reach as high as 70ft. Shep tells us to “Be aware; it’s a long and bumpy dirt road that leads to the beach.” We’re warned that the single-lane dirt track to see the break is sometimes impassable, with deep ruts and deep puddles. 4WD is a must. We skip it and vow to see it on our way back to the airport (cue foreshadowing).

Shep says we are approaching mile marker 0. If Daniel’s concerned that we’ve already stopped twice and haven’t officially started the road to Hana, it doesn’t show.

The Road to Hana: Bamboo Forests, Lava Caves, and Waterfalls

Our three days of driving are as exciting, adventurous, and scenic as I’d hoped. We see majestic waterfalls, including Twin Falls (mile marker 2) and 400-foot Waimoku Falls (mile marker 42). We trek the Pipiwai Trail, past ancient banyan trees and through tall bamboo groves, whose clacking sounds like a line of tumbling dominoes.

The sandwiches stave off hunger, as planned, but a stop at Aunty Sandy’s (mile marker 16) for a warm loaf of banana bread is the crowning culinary moment of the morning. The raging Pacific crashes against lava rocks. Palms cling to the beach and lean permanently sideways from the wind. Everything along the road feels green, mystical, and alive.

Shep tells us that if we haven’t bought tickets in advance for Waʻanapanapa State Park (mile marker 32), one of Maui’s most famous black sand beaches, we’re out of luck, as same-day passes can’t be purchased. “Ummmm, no, I hadn’t secured advance tickets,” I tell Daniel and Ella. They don’t seem to mind. Daniel probably views this as a win—an extra hour at our resort in Hana Town.

Ever the optimist, Shep reminds us there’s much more to see and do ahead. After a short ukulele melody, he has us pull off the road.

“Maybe Shep’s wrong?” Ella says as we look around. “Where’s the cave?”

But just then, we spot an opening, about three feet tall, on the edge of the highway. We peer in; it’s pitch black. ‘Trust Shep,’ I think as I scramble in. We crawl through the short, drippy, black lava cave and pop out into the forest (mile marker 23). Exhilarating and surprising, this is what the Road to Hana is about.

Hana Town: Hidden Beaches, Food Trucks, and the Hana-Maui Resort

We arrive at the Hana-Maui Resort around 4pm. It’s been a day. Miles of hairpin turns, stone bridges, gushing waterfalls, hiking, and eating. Our weathered green cottage is an oasis.—modest and clean, with 360-degree uninterrupted ocean views and an oversized veranda. We embrace stillness for the first time in days.

The only traditional restaurant in the area is at Hana-Maui, where we have two of our three dinners. But lunch steals the show in Hana Town, where groupings of food trucks keep locals and tourists well-fed. Choices abound, including homemade tacos filled with chicken, shrimp, or beef, poke bowls, huli-huli chicken, Thai food, acai bowls, and smoothies. Lunch is so good; I crave lunch for dinner. But unfortunately, the food trucks close at 630pm.

After visiting the coffee truck one morning, I sit on our deck with my book. On my left, just outside the property’s perimeter, I notice people heading down the steep hill towards the bay. ‘Where are they going?’ I wonder. Curiosity gets the best of me. Ella and Daniel are poolside, honing their Hawaiian tropic tans. I text them my general whereabouts and set off.

A ten-minute cliff-hugging hike takes me to a crescent cove with enormous red lava cinder cliffs and a red sand beach. A wall of black lava rocks absorbs the Pacific break, revealing a tranquil pool. There’s no feeling quite like discovering a hidden beach. Although not exactly hidden. As the Shaka Guide later revealed, this is Red Sand Beach (mile marker 35).

I bask in the sun and enjoy the solitude on our last full day in Hana.

Check out the Hana-Maui Resort Reviews Here

On the Road to Hana, Trust Your Guide

Our flight to Kona is at 12:30pm and the last thing I want is to get stuck on the Hana Highway. I package our early morning wake-up with the promise of one last stop at our favorite coffee truck and the chance to see anything we missed on the way up. Daniel has his heart set on Jaws.

The all-knowing Maui gods say the drive from Hana Town to Paʻia Town is roughly 2 ½ hours without stops. Daniel clocks in at 1 hour 48 minutes. He’d make a great local. So when we get to the turn-off for this mythical surf break, I’m unconcerned; we have time to spare.

Our Jeep creeps down the single-track dirt path, which gets steeper, narrower, muddier, and more deeply rutted the further we go. We cross puddles of indeterminate depth. Mud attacks the windows and obscures our view. The silence in the car is deafening. Even Shep is speechless. What have we gotten ourselves into? There’s no going back—turning around is physically impossible.

Finally, we reach Jaws, locally known as Peʻahi—one of the world’s most famous big wave surf spots. It earned its nickname from the sudden, monstrous swells that can appear seemingly out of nowhere.

Legendary Surf Break, Jaws

We hop out of the Jeep and anxiously gaze out over the cliff. Jaws’ waves are tragically underwhelming. But none of us would have appreciated them, even if they had towered at 70ft with Kai Lenny deep in the barrel. We were too worried about the mile-long trek back to the highway. I ask Daniel what he thinks, assuming he will assuage my fears like always. “50/50,” he says with little confidence.

I start square breathing. Ella checks her phone for a signal, and Daniel puts the Jeep into gear. Off we go.

Some journeys lead to great destinations, others to great stories. On the Road to Hana, we got both.

Did You Notice?

You don’t have to be a cartographer to recognize my list of sights is geographically out of order, but they are the moments that made our journey. Use the Shaka Guide to map out your adventure. Click here to get yours!

Get Your Own Shaka Guide! Click Here.

April 5, 2025
3 Sensational Summer Days in Stowe: A Vermont Secret No Longer
Think Stowe is only for leaf peepers and ski bums? Let me introduce you to summer—my favorite season in Stowe. Sure, it’s not even spring yet, but it’s never too early to plan for summer. Read on for inspiration—what to do, where to hike, eat, drink, and stay. Discover some off-the-beaten-path places only locals know about, like eerie covered bridges and how to sniff out the best coffee in town. Ready to take on Vermont’s not-so-best-kept secret?

I round the bend, obeying the speed limit like the rule follower I am. Mac’s Market appears on my left, marking the spot where, for a mile or so, Route 100 becomes Main Street. I stop at the intersection of Main and Mountain. A full stop. A deep breath. A smile.

Stowe’s Main Street is an apple pie-shaped slice of Americana. It transports me from my fast-paced city existence to a slow-paced country one. No matter the season, it feels like coming home. But in the summer, it feels like something else.

It feels green.

A Stowe for (almost) All Seasons

In the Fall, Stowe is an intense kaleidoscope of color. Reds, oranges, and yellows transform the landscape little by little each day. By winter, those harvest colors are replaced by blankets of white—a muted landscape marked by the woooosssh of a skier or the crunch of snow underfoot. Spring brings the mud, keeping tourists at bay. The village quietly regroups.

But in the summer, Stowe is a love letter to green—hunter, honeydew, laurel, lichen, moss, grass, forest, sage, and mint. In the summer, Stowe owns green. These greens have a distinct look, feel, and smell—layered mountains, freshly mown meadows, and forests thick with birch, elm, poplar, and hickory.

In Stowe, green is a vibe.

40 Summers of Stowe

Summer in Stowe isn’t the secret it was when I was a kid. Even today, it’s overshadowed by its bossy older siblings, Winter and Fall. I’ve been visiting Stowe for more than 40 years. Over the decades, the village has grown and changed, adding stores selling non-GMO granola, organic wines, and overpriced avocados. But at its core, it remains the same—a place to get reacquainted with Mother Nature, to embrace the simple life—and to recharge.

In Stowe, nature and adventure unfold in many ways. No two days are the same. Tackle winding, wildflower-filled trails and bike through overgrown forests. Lose yourself in the town’s galleries or seek out Scottish Highland cows to photograph. For those who believe the best adventures are savored, Stowe’s food scene will satisfy your cravings.

Are the Green Mountains of Stowe on your summer radar? Or, do you wonder if they hold enough to captivate you and your family? Read on for inspiration on how to spend three sensational days in Vermont’s prettiest village.

My Stowe Summer E-Guide: with all the links you need to plan your trip!

Day 1: What to do in Stowe

9am-ish: My brain doesn’t boot up until my first sip of coffee. For a small town, Stowe has multiple places I like to caffeinate (none of which ends in ‘bucks). Black Cap Coffee is powered by women pouring badass brews. Don’t be intimidated by the lines. These women move fast. And their coffee will kick start your first day in Stowe like a green flag at NASCAR.

I recently added a teaspoon of Chagaccino to my coffee order. Chaga is a medicinal mushroom rich in antioxidants and claims, among other health benefits, to lower blood pressure and stimulate immune systems. I’m all in for Black Cap’s Chagaccino cappuccino. But boosting immune systems comes at a price. Be warned!

10am: Sufficiently revved, I stroll Stowe’s picturesque Main Street. I stop at long-time faves like Shaw’s General Store and Bear Pond Books. Many of these independent businesses have been here since I was a kid.

I cross the street and dip into Farm Home Co, a home decor shop that, with its highly-curated wares, could just as happily live on Main Street, Sag Harbor. A few doors down is The Country Store, a home goods shop where I inevitably buy kitchen gadgets I don’t need. A Hasselback potato slicer catches my eye. I head to the register. Yes, we make Hasselback potatoes at least twice a year. Money well spent, indeed.

And this one time, at Ranch Camp

I take a hard turn at Mountain Road and walk through Stowe’s 150ft pedestrian-covered bridge. Dewey’s Bridge has been a village icon since 1973. I grab my phone. From here, the views of Stowe’s Community Church, the town’s crowned jewel, are postcard-worthy.

12pm: After a few (hundred) snaps, I beeline to Ranch Camp, a five-minute walk up the road. Part bike shop, part sandwich shop, part tap room, Ranch Camp has an entire menu worth devouring. For RC virgins, I strongly recommend The Rock. I’m a Ranch Camp expert, and I still can never not order The Rock.

The Rock is a protein bowl of perfect proportions—arugula and brown basmati rice with black beans and corn salsa, topped with an avocado sliced with surgeon-like precision (no doubt with a gadget they bought at The Country Store).

My Stowe E-Guide is filled with even more things to do. Click Here!

The Stowe Summer Trifecta: Nap, Dinner, Stroll

2pm: At this point in the day, I need one of three things: coffee, chocolate, or a nap. If chocolate is your pick-me-up, Lake Champlain Chocolates is nearby. Travel + Leisure named their hot chocolate ‘America’s Best.’ And no, hot chocolate isn’t just for winter.

5pm: If the sun is shining, grab an Adirondack chair and a microbrew and watch the world go by from the front lawn of Stowe Public House. This al fresco pitstop sometimes blends into dinner, so I book an early table at Plate just a few doors down. This California-inspired restaurant is always packed. But even if I forget to make a res, I grab a stool and enjoy my Hearts of Palm Vegan ‘Crab Cakes’ at the bar.

8pm: At summer’s peak, the sun remains high in the sky well past my bedtime. But I can’t pass up an after-dinner stroll along Stowe’s Rec Path. I catch it just behind the church for a last few breaths of green mountain air before I fall into a deep summer slumber.

Day 2: What to do in Stowe

9am-ish: Hidden in the far back corner of Baggy Knees Shopping Center, Woodland Bakery is the coffee and pastry shop no local wants you to know about. When I become a local, I will curse you for going there, but for now, be my guest!

The air inside Woodland is pure butter. I salivate like my black lab at dinnertime. The coffee quietly screams artisanal, and though Woodland isn’t only for coffee snobs, they’ll feel right at home. At Woodland, brews, brioche, and butter rule.

10am: It’s time to hike the Green Mountains Stowe is so well known for. Try Sterling Pond, which is accessed from the top of Smugglers’ Notch via a trailhead on Route 108—a moderate hike to an alpine pond. Or follow the same pass once used by outlaws and smugglers—Smugglers’ Notch Trail is near the Barnes Camp Visitor Center. This steep uphill hike winds through dramatic cliffs, enormous boulders, and forests.

If you have kids in tow, take them to Percy Farm’s yearly corn maze and enjoy the views while they get lost in the tall cornfields for a while.

For those who love waterfalls (who doesn’t love waterfalls?), Glen Moss Falls, located right off Route 100, is a picturesque stop. It’s more walk than hike, so don’t expect to burn off that brioche here. Bingham Falls, accessed from a marked trailhead along Route 108, rewards hikers with a dramatic cascade and inviting, albeit cold, layers of swimming holes.

An afternoon of brews, boutiques, and burgers

12:30pm: One of Stowe’s prettiest places to have lunch is the Ideltyme Brewery and Restaurant’s backyard garden. With its central, convivial, al fresco bar and simple bites like warm pretzel bread with pub mustard and fried pickles, it’s easy to whittle away a few hours in the sun with a flight of beer.

1:30pm: If you’re in Stowe on a summer Sunday, and I highly recommend that you are, walk from Idletyme to the farmer’s market. Weave in and around the tented vendors: popsicles, potstickers, and artisan popcorn. Herbs, herbal roots, and herbal-infused teas—it’s everything a village farmer’s market should be.

3:30pm: The Mountain Road is lined with standalone shops and boutiques. Archery Close is one of the best, with brands that elevate Vermont flannel like Amundsen, Marine Layer, and Faherty, as well as curated accessories and shoes.

There are two Coco Goose boutiques. I’m not sure why, but they’re both worth visiting. With brands I covet, like Nili Lotan, Ulla Johnson, Veronica Beard, and Herno, those Coco Geese certainly know their audience.

7pm: Warm summer nights in Stowe are made for Doc Ponds. Casual and lively, kick back with a cold craft beer, some cheddar fritters, and a burger with hand-cut fries. The vibe is effortlessly cool—with vinyl records spinning, picnic tables on the patio, and a steady hum of conversation. Whether you roll in from a day of hard-core hiking or hard-core shopping, Doc Ponds is a great place to end the day.

More hikes, more restaurants, more shopping. Click Here for my Stowe E-Guide!

Day 3: What to do in Stowe

9am: I’m not a yogi, yet I love the morning Yin Yoga class at The Swimming Hole. In Yin Yoga, you hold stretching poses until you almost fall asleep. I love to sleep. Yin Yoga is the yoga for me. The Swimming Hole also has a gym and a pool, where day passes are sold. This is an especially good option should your summer day start with some rain. Those Green Mountains don’t get green by themselves, remember!

10am: Walk or bike the 5.3-mile scenic trail that loops around town. The Rec Path path follows the West Branch of the Little River, crossing 11 low-arching bridges and ducking behind the Stowe Community Church. Each turn has a beautiful view of the landscape. Wildflowers line the trail and mountain views around every bend. Wear a bathing suit and take a picnic lunch with you. You’ll find plenty of spots to hang out beside the river.

1pm: Take a scenic drive to some of Stowe’s iconic and historic covered bridges and barns—snapshots of Vermont’s past. Gold Brook Bridge, aka Emily’s Bridge, comes with a ghost story. After being abandoned by her lover, legend has it that Emily met a tragic fate here. Red Covered Bridge, just outside town, is classic Vermont—bold, bright, and reflected in the slow-moving brook below.

Take a selfie with Parker’s Barn on Weeks Hill Road. Although the town gives funds to keep it standing, this iconic and dilapidated red barn’s days are numbered. The dozens of pigeons who live there should start looking for new lodgings.

Time to Splurge

2pm: A vacation isn’t a vacation without some decadent splurges. The Spa at Topnotch Resort is just what I need to soothe my weary body and soul after a few adrenaline-filled days. Topnotch’s Spa has been a favorite of mine for decades and offers classic treatments, from 25-minute spot massages to 80-minute deep tissue massages. But it has also changed with the times and has R&R CBD and Thai massages.

Don’t forget to book in advance—I’m not the only one who thinks the Spa at Topnotch is the best.

7pm: Edson Hill is just far enough from the bustle of town for those looking for a quiet place for drinks and dinner. The Tavern has brown leather couches and low post-and-beam ceilings that define coziness. The restaurant has modernized classic New England fare with a seasonally changing menu. Views are photo-worthy in every direction—a culinary standout in Stowe.

This Stowe day trip comes with a scoop of Cherry Garcia. Click here to learn more.

A Stowe Hotel for Everyone

Finding the right place to stay in Stowe in summer depends on your vibe—are you here to unwind at the spa, explore every mountain trail, or just soak in the small-town ambiance with a cocktail?

For the Romantics:

Edson Hill is as elegant as it gets in Stowe. Set on 38 rolling acres, this beautiful and romantic spot has eight Manor House rooms and 15 guest houses, each oozing sophistication and antique charm. Four poster beds with crisp white linens, fireplaces, velvet couches, and standalone soaking tubs may mean you never leave the room. But, those who do will be rewarded, as the property has wildflower-filled walking trails, horse stables, and a bucolic pond.

For the Spa-Goers:

Topnotch Resort & Spa is for those who want luxury without the pretense. Tucked into the mountains, Topnotch has topnotch views, an award-winning spa, and an outdoor pool that begs for lazy afternoons. Whether you’re booking a tennis lesson, indulging in a deep tissue massage, or sipping wine by the fire pit—lean into relaxation at Topnotch.

For the Best Village Location:

The Green Mountain Inn is a quintessentially Stowe inn located on Main Street in the heart of Stowe village. It’s quaint, cozy, and packed with old-world charm—only steps away from shops, restaurants, and the Rec Path. With its creaky floors, afternoon tea, and kind hospitality, you’ll feel like a regular, even on your first visit.

The Green Mountains are Calling

‘Stowe’s such a small town—do you ever get bored?’ I sometimes get asked. No, never. Not in 40 years. But feel free to ask me again in ten.

It’s hard to get bored in a place where the morning fog continuously reshapes the scenery, where the Green Mountains often take on layers of blue, and where I’ll never exhaust the hiking trails and summit views. Where I feel green.

I might get bored of my go-to grain bowl at Ranch Camp. But I doubt it.

My $10 Stowe E-Guide has even more fabulous places to stay. Click Here!

My Interactive Stowe Map

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android
Ready to travel—but can’t find the time to plan?

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After visiting 70 countries on 7 continents, I know how overwhelming travel planning can be.

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My research. Your adventure.
February 26, 2025
The Most Inspirational (Non-Skiers) Guide To Stowe

I love to ski in Stowe. Ummm, let me rephrase that. I love to ski in Stowe when the sky is cloudless, cobalt blue, and the temperature is firmly north of 32 degrees. I love to ski when the slopes are blanketed in fresh powder and are crowd-free. Because I despise early wake-ups, I usually don’t hit the slopes until 9am. Then, I only ski until lunch because once I’ve devoured a cheeseburger and fries, I’m as active as a lioness after a kill.

You can probably guess how often I ski.

Undeniably, Stowe is a spectacular ski and snowboard destination. But non-skiers can still enjoy a winter holiday there. I’ve been visiting Stowe since 1984 and can vouch for activities beyond Mt. Mansfield’s double-black diamonds. Back then, I was a reluctant skier who only cared about cute ski outfits and hot ski instructors.

If you are your family’s most reluctant skier, let me acquaint you with Stowe’s other winter charms. There’s more to this Vermont village than meets the eye.

Why Stowe?

Stowe today isn’t much different from it was 40 years ago. Many of the shops, inns, and restaurants that I recall from my teen years remain. Bear Pond Books, Shaw’s General Store, and the Green Mountain Inn are just a few places that have stood the test of time. That Stowe has been able to retain its old-world sensibility is one reason why I come back each year. The fact that ghastly neon signs are banned is another.

But there’s more.

Stowe is a jewel-toned destination nearly year-round. In the summer, emerald green hills layer against sapphire blue skies. In autumn, throngs of leaf-peepers descend upon the town for ruby-red, topaz, and gold-tinged foliage.

By winter, those vivid colors disappear, muting the landscape. Yet, beauty abounds even on days when the snow isn’t glistening like diamonds. Morning fog rolls over the mountains, then slowly lifts as the sun ekes through. In the late afternoon, the sun descends behind the peaks and humps—leaving lavender and pink skies in its wake.

Stowe, a brief history

I wasn’t keen on history in high school so I promise to only bore you briefly with it here. Stowe was chartered in 1763, but its first settlers didn’t arrive until 30 years later. Back then, Stowe’s population totaled 316 people and 8,000 grazing sheep. You don’t need a statistics degree to figure out that the farming industry dominated Stowe’s early years. However, Stowe became a popular summer resort destination by the mid-nineteenth century due to its evergreen mountains and scenic terrain.

In 1921, Stowe hosted its first Winter Carnival, thus putting it squarely on the map as a cold-weather hot spot. Ski tracks were cleared, trails were added, and tourists began to arrive en masse. Before you could say baaaaa, Stowe became the ‘Ski Capital of the East.’

Beyond the slopes in Stowe, Vermont

Despite its history, don’t be fooled into thinking that skiing monopolizes winter in Stowe. This picturesque village aims to please all. I recently spent 12 days in Stowe—only two of which had skis attached to my feet.

What did I do for the other ten days? And what could I have done if I weren’t so content sitting fireside with my Johanna Basford coloring books? Read on for three days of inspiration.

Stowe Inspiration: Day One

A beautiful sunrise is one of the few things that gets me out of bed early. And in Stowe, there’s nothing better than watching the sun rise over snow-capped mountains. The landscape is hushed, and the bustle of the day is still hours away. In Stowe, mountain views rule. One of the best places to catch them is along the Stowe Rec Path. With over 5 miles of public paths, visitors can walk, run, or bike—all the while admiring Stowe’s natural beauty.

PC: Mark Vandenberg

I enter the Rec Path behind Stowe’s famous white-steepled church, but access points are everywhere. Arched wooden bridges dot the landscape, and I lose myself in the rhythmic sounds of the babbling brook. I take comfort in the fact that bears hibernate and photograph the covered bridge that links Main Street to Mountain Road. It starts to flurry, which adds a bit of whimsy to the bucolic scene.

Insider Tip: For those who love iconic red barns, catch a glimpse of Parker’s Barn before it’s gone. Most of Stowe’s old barns have collapsed over the decades, and Parker’s isn’t far behind. First built in 1875 and located on Weeks Hill Road at Mayo Farm, the fate of this dilapidated structure is in the town’s hands. But for now, you can still take a selfie beside it or capture its beauty with snow-covered fields in the distance. It may not be around the next time you visit.

Coffee Break

Eventually, I get cold. This is winter in Stowe, mind you. So I stumble into my new favorite coffee shop for an oat milk cappuccino. Woodland Baking & Coffee is hard to find, tucked in the far corner of the Baggy Knees Shopping Center—a place I now know of thanks to my new Stowe friend, Emily.

The coffee is crazy good—to use a technical coffee term. But it’s the scent of freshly baked loaves, croissants, and other crumbly, buttery, flaky delights that lure me inside. The ingredients are sourced locally. The crowd is local, too. I hope Emily is still my friend after I’ve told everyone about her secret coffee spot.

Farm Home Obsessed

Stowe has a few lovely interior design shops that make me long for a mountain house to decorate. Farm Home Co.’s showroom is meticulously curated. I covet the hand-woven baskets, especially the ones with a delicate, open, and wavy lip. The piles of patterned vintage kilim pillows, woolen throws, and bleached jute rugs tempt me to give my bedroom a makeover.

Insider Tip: Farm Home Co. has a nearby boutique property accommodating up to ten people. In the heart of town and designed to farm home perfection, this 150-year-old white clapboard gem has family reunion written all over it.

And this one time, at Ranch Camp

All this longing and coveting makes me hungry. So I beeline for Ranch Camp, a bike shop/biker hub/lunch spot perched on Mountain Road. Over 12 days, I ate there five times. Four of those times, I have The Rock, a warm grain bowl filled with black beans, arugula, corn salsa, sliced avo, brown basmati rice, and topped with perfectly grilled chicken. Four out of five times—yes, it’s that good.

A full morning of non-skiing activities and a hearty grain bowl begs for downtime. I head home and begin a Eugene Levy movie marathon: American Pie, Best in Show, and Schitt’s Creek. Right around the time Jim starts stripping, I fall asleep. (If you have no idea what I’m talking about, head to the couch and start streaming American Pie pronto).

For those who prefer the big screen, the Stowe Cinema 3Plex has been in show business since 1972 and serves guests beer and cocktails at their seats. What better way to see the latest Oscar contenders than with a Stowe Cider or Heady Topper in hand?

Insider Tip: A double India Pale Ale, Heady Topper is the 8th-best beer in the world according to Beer Advocate. It’s brewed in Stowe and Waterbury in tiny quantities, which gives it added allure in the craft beer-drinking world. A great place to try one of these famous brews is at The Alchemist, which also gives brewery tours.

Looking for even more to do in Stowe?

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PC: Mark Vandenberg

Stowe Inspiration: Day Two

I’m a part-time yogi. Occasionally, I’ll humor my husband and join him for a Warrior 3 or Downward Facing Dog. But no matter how often I practice, I only like the Shavasana part. For real yogis, Peak Yoga is located at The Swimming Hole, a fire-engine-red building just off Weeks Hill Road. A non-profit community pool and athletic center, this local fitness treasure is a hub for yogis and athletes alike.

Insider Tip: The Swimming Hole offers day passes. This means anyone can take advantage of the facility while visiting Stowe. My favorite classes are Yin Yoga and Gentle Flow. Sign up for classes here.

Looking for a small, private group tour of Stowe? Click here!

The Hills Are Alive

One of my favorite Stowe activities is snowshoeing. Anyone imagining unwieldy tennis racket-type snow boot attachments, please join me in the present day. Snowshoes today are high-tech, comfortable, and pretty badass. Click here for proof.

A popular spot to snowshoe and cross-country ski is the Trapp Family Lodge. Yes, the von Trapps of The Sound of Music fame. The von Trapps escaped to Stowe after fleeing Austria in the 1940’s. Their vast hilltop property offers sweeping panoramic views of the Worcester Mountains and has snow-covered fields dotted with herds of endearing Scottish Highland cows.

Insider Tip: If you don’t already own a pair of snowshoes or cross-country skis, it’s a snap to rent them on-site at Trapps. Pinnacle Ski & Sports is another place in town that will take care of all rental equipment needs.

PC: Mark Vandenberg

On Main

If you have the energy, wander Stowe’s Main Street. In a word, it’s delightful. I inevitably find myself absorbed in the best-seller section of Bear Pond Books. Beyond books, Bear Pond sells games, puzzles, note cards, and unique gifts. One level below Bear Pond is Stowe Mercantile. With old-fashioned candy jars brimming with jawbreakers, sour balls, and rock candy, the Mercantile is a childhood dream come to life.

Insider Tip: While typically more crowded due to its Main Street location, Black Cap Coffee & Bakery whips up fantastic brews and is set in a historic Vermont building across from the church and community center. Women-owned and run, Black Cap also serves breakfast and lunch.

Off Main

Sometimes, you have to take a few detours to find hidden gems. A few of my favorite places for retail therapy are not on Main Street. At least not anymore. Archery Close has moved to the Mountain Road. And thank god they did. With all this beautiful space to show off their curated collection of emerging designers, I might grab a sleeping bag and move in. Some of my favorite brands live here, like ba&sh, Marine Layer, Faherty, and Amundsen.

Next door, another Stowe essential has taken advantage of more space. Family-owned Commodities Natural Market has specialty groceries, IPAs, Vermont beef, farm-fresh eggs, and about a thousand other things you will want to take home. If you are self-catering at an Airbnb or a rental, you can’t do better than this cozy Chipotle Cheddar beef chili recipe from Half-Baked Harvest (is there nothing a block of cream cheese can’t improve?). You’ll find everything you need to make it (even Gochuchang) at Commodities.

And lastly, don’t leave town without visiting one (or both) of Coco Goose’s Stowe boutiques. From Herno puffers and Veronica Beard blazers to about a hundred styles of denim, Coco Goose knows its audience. Yes, it’s us, the non-skiers of Stowe! The 2038 Mountain Road location is attached to Après, a super cool cocktail and wine bar in an unexpected location. So once you’re shopped out, you can revive with a gin martini. Remember: you don’t need to ski to après!

Grab a Plate

Time for dinner already? Head back to Main Street. Using seasonal ingredients, Plate is a culinary highlight of any trip to Stowe. Its lively and convivial atmosphere keeps diners in place long after the meal has ended. One of my favorite plates at Plate has never left the menu—Vegan ‘Crab Cakes’. Made from hearts of palm and topped with a cashew aioli, it’s one of the restaurant’s most popular starters.

Other temptations at Plate include the Little Leaf Farm Lettuce with grapefruit wedges, maple granola, and avocado and the Grilled Pork Chop with bacon, brussel sprout slaw, and apple butter. Chef Aaron Martin and his wife Jennifer have brilliantly paired a small-town atmosphere with a big-city menu.

Insider Tip: Plate used to be old-school and take dinner reservations by phone only, but are now easily accessed via Open Table. Can’t get a table? Head to the bar instead. First come, first served!

Stowe Inspiration: Day Three

Despite my allergy to early wake-ups, I make exceptions beyond pretty sunrises. Hiking is an activity I enjoy year-round. In Stowe, there are trails to accommodate every fitness level. The Notch is one of the most user-friendly—a 3.5-mile paved pass between Stowe and Cambridge.

During the winter, the road is closed to vehicles due to the steep switchbacks that make navigating dangerous. This annual closure makes it a wonderful place to hike, snowshoe, cross-country ski, or even sled.

Massive boulders and 1,000-foot cliffs give the area a prehistoric air. I wind my way to the top under a canopy of snow-laden firs and paper birch trees. The Notch is an ideal way to burn pre-lunch calories.

Dashing through the snow

Not all outdoor activities in Stowe require elevating heart rates. Topnotch, a high-end hotel, offers festive sleigh rides. Beautiful Edson Hill has an outdoor apres-ski firepit available to guests whether they’ve skied or not. Spruce Peak Village has an ice skating rink, and the landscape offers miles of snowmobiling trails.

Our snowmobiling trip was an unexpected highlight, as I’d rather hunker down with a mug of chamomile tea before a roaring fire with my markers than get on an unwieldy piece of motorized metal in the snow. But the team at Stowe Snowmobile knows exactly what they are doing. After a short indoor video, a short outdoor tutorial, and memorizing the safety mantra, “When in trouble, let go!” I was ready to tackle the trails—all 25 miles of them. It was two of the most fun, snow-filled hours I’ve had in 40 years.

PC: Mark Vandenberg

Non-active activities

Stowe is inherently enchanting. I often take a drive in search of the area’s covered bridges. SLR and iPhone in tow, I wind up and around the hills, admiring the mountains as I go.

One bridge worth seeking out is Goldbrook Bridge, aka Emily’s Bridge. Built in 1844, this Howe Truss bridge is said to be haunted by Emily’s ghost. Another is barn red Brookdale Bridge, located at the Rec Path’s end. Photo ops abound in Stowe. Aside from coloring, it’s probably my favorite non-active activity.

Insider Tip: Avoid Main Street, Mountain Road, and Shaw’s Supermarket like the plague starting around 3-4pm. This is when all those hungry skiers and snowboarders leave the mountain en masse—creating traffic havoc and unwieldy check-out lines.

Spa-Bound

Even days when I don’t clock more than 2,000 steps, a winter massage is always welcome. The Spa at Topnotch has treatments to warm guests from the inside out. Take your pick from the extensive menu: Thai, deep tissue, CBD, magnesium, or a side-by-side massage with your partner. With scrubs, facials, peels, and infusions, the Spa at Topnotch is a full-day activity in my book.

Unwind at Cork

Nothing completes my day like a glass of wine. Cork is a wine bar designed for unwinding on a Stowe side street just off Main. Vermont’s first and only natural wine shop and restaurant, its dimly lit atmosphere draws many locals. Small bites like croquettes, baked brie, and focaccia with whipped ricotta pair well with my bold cabernet.

After dinner, I step outside the restaurant and notice the dramatic underlighting of Stowe’s church steeple. A few snowflakes fall, which adds to the setting of the fairy tale. According to the forecast, a storm is on the way. I head home and fall into a deep sleep.

Love craft beer? Take a Half-Day Local Brewery Tour. Click here for details.

PC: Mark Vandenberg

Let it ~~Snow~~ Stowe

I wake up at 7am and am on the mountain within an hour. It’s 22 degrees, and the skies are a dense, foggy gray. At the Quad’s summit, the visibility is compromised, and snow conditions are frozen granular, at best. More people are flying down Lord and Sunrise than I would like. There isn’t a single hot ski instructor in sight.

It’s epic.

Looking for even more to do in Stowe?

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Heading to Stowe this summer? Click here for three inspirational itineraries!

5 Stowe FAQs:

How do I get to Stowe?
Stowe is about a 45-minute drive from Burlington International Airport (BTV). Fly into Burlington, rent a car, and you’ll be winding through snowy mountain roads in no time.

What’s the population of Stowe?
Just under 6,000 people call Stowe home. Small town. Big personality.

How big is Stowe?
Stowe covers about 72 square miles—about the size of San Francisco, just with more x-country trails and fewer tech bros.

Do I need a car?
Yes. While the main village is walkable, most of Stowe’s best spots—trails, coffee shops, covered bridges—are a short drive away. Having a car is key.

Is Stowe dog-friendly?
Very. You’ll find trails, paths, and even inns that welcome your four-legged BFFs.

Stowe, Vermont Interactive Map

Map from Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

About Mark Vandenberg:

I don’t normally highlight other photographers, but when I find one so clearly superior in their field, I’m all too happy to showcase them. Having discovered his talent for capturing landscapes about 15 years ago, he’s now one of Stowe’s leading fine art photographers.

Follow Mark’s work at www.stowebeautiful.com and on Instagram: @stowebeautiful.

Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.

September 14, 2024
12 Hours In Mérida: Everything You Need To Know

Mérida has captured the attention of intrepid travelers seeking a combination of history, art, architecture, music, culinary adventures, shopping, and good old-fashioned fun. Located in the northwest corner of the Yucatán Peninsula, Mérida is quickly climbing the hot lists with its boutiques, boutique hotels, rooftop bars, and street-side taco stands.

Read all about Mérida, the ultimate way to spend 12 hours in Mexico’s hottest city, and a few quick hit FAQs to get you going.

My whirlwind trip to Mérida is hardly enough time to scratch the surface of the Yucatán State’s culturally rich capital. I had only three days to explore. Three days to eat, drink, shop, and soak up Mérida’s unique vibe.

But, if I had to pare the best of Mérida down to one day, this is what I’d do.

12 Hours in Mérida

I’ve been invited to stay at a friend’s Airbnb in Mérida. Amy and her husband live there for a month, enjoying the new work-from-anywhere culture. Amy’s detailed research provides me with excellent local intel; like Mérida’s best shopping, Mérida’s best restaurants, and Mérida’s best bars.

The only downside (and I use downside loosely here) is that I can’t stay in one of Mérida’s boutique hotels. Ever the nosy blogger, I peek into a few anyway—for research! I decided that if I were to stay in a Mérida hotel, hands down, I’d choose Coqui Coqui.

Coqui Coqui has just one room. One fabulous room! So, if Mérida is on your Mérida wish list, book the room first and wrap your itinerary tightly around it. Part perfumery, part boutique hotel, all Belle Epoque boudoir-chic, Coqui Coqui dazzles with its marble-clad bathroom and his and her (her and her, him and him) side-by-side claw-footed tubs. The tubs alone are reason enough for me to plan a trip to Mérida, but the highly-curated boutique and the building are worth visiting even if the room isn’t available.

But first, coffee

I don’t know about you, but my day isn’t a day without caffeine. I wish I weren’t a coffee snob, but I’ve been on this planet long enough to know one thing—I need very good coffee. Thankfully, Mérida accommodates.

9am, Soco Bakery

A nondescript stone facade and a rickety wooden bench are all that welcome patrons to Soco, a bakery on a colorful Merida backstreet. It would be easy to pass by and never know the delectable treasures that lie inside. That is if it weren’t for one thing—the buttery scent of just-baked croissants wafting from the door.

Soco is a social hub. It’s immediately clear their clientele is fiercely loyal. I can see why. The barista creates specialty coffees like chai lattes, cold brews, horchatas, and kombucha. The baked goods are beyond explanation. Aside from a variety of fresh loaves of bread, croissants, and pain au chocolate, Soco has melt-in-your-mouth options like babka, Basque cheesecake, and mango lemon cruffins (not a typo, think croissant/muffin)

I grab a flat white and a bag of pastries. Fully fueled, I’m ready to take on Mérida.

10am, Plaza Grande

Plaza Grande is the beating heart of Mérida—a garden-filled square that’s an ideal place to begin exploring. Technically, the tree-lined Plaza Grande is a circle rather than a square. Its eight pedestrian walkways radiate from its center. I amble over to the unmissable, larger-than-life, rainbow-colored Mérida letters. With the Mexican flag waving in the background, it’s a natural photo op and an official welcome to this vibrant city.

11am, San Ildefonso Cathedral

As if this colorful welcome isn’t enough reason to love Plaza Grande, it’s also home to the Cathedral of Mérida. Also known as San Ildefonso, the 16-century cathedral looms over the square’s east side, I mean circle. Constructed from Mayan ruins, it’s an imposing backdrop to the lively promenades and historic buildings.

Street vendors set up their stalls, tourists wander, and locals rush past on their way to work. There’s a buzz in the air. Mérida is waking up!

Before I know it, it’s time for lunch. Am I hungry? I am! My flaky almond croissant is a distant high-calorie memory. Amy, my favorite Mérida-know-it-all, recommends ceviche from El Marlín Azul. Never one to pass on local insight, I turn right on Calle 62 and continue to rebuild my appetite.

12pm, El Marlín Azul

Unfortunately, El Marlín Azul is only four minutes from Plaza Grande, which doesn’t bode well for my step counter. With humble beginnings as a food truck in the industrial zone, El Marlín Azul is now considered one of the best places to eat in the city. Another unassuming storefront leads me to think that the best places to eat in Mérida compete to look the shabbiest.

A handwritten menu lists the day’s specials. I don’t speak Spanish, but I know enough words to order my favorites: camarone, pulpo, and pescado ceviche. Other delights include tuna tostadas, shrimp brochette, and fajitas. Trust me when I say no one leaves El Marlín Azul hungry. No wonder dinners don’t begin until at least 9pm. I swear I’ll never eat again. But I don’t swear I’ll never drink again. With so many local watering holes and swanky rooftop bars, a pre-dinner cocktail progressive is in my future.

Once again, full and happy, it’s time to shop. I continue down Calle 62 towards Caracol Púrapura, stopping at boutiques along the way.

130pm, Caracol Púrapura

Caracol Púrapura (Purple Snail) is a series of galleries that feels more like a museum than a shopping area. Handmade Talavera ceramic jewelry, Mexican folk art, and intricately embroidered clothing are just a few of the treasures to be unearthed from this inner courtyard at the intersection of Calles 60 and 53. The handicrafts found at Caracol Púrapura preserve Mexico’s traditions while supporting local artists.

I head back towards Plaza Grande en route to another Mérida shop that champions Mexican artisans in a completely different yet equally unique setting.

230pm, Taller Maya

It’s deceiving to refer to Taller Maya as just a home goods store. It has goals beyond traditional commercial endeavors. Taller Maya is a part of the World Fair Trade Organization, which aims to keep Mayan culture alive through relationships with hundreds of artisans in 40 communities across the Yucatán Peninsula.

Marble pedestal bowls, wooden furniture, luminous lamps, and hand-woven hammocks only begin to describe the wares offered at this highly curated Mérida boutique. Taller Maya is open and airy—a study in neutrals designed to feel like an uber-modern Mayan living room. I briefly wonder about squatter’s rights in Mexico.

I always think the best way to get to know a new city is through café culture. It’s one of my least active city activities. Depending on the time of day, I sit with a (coffee, a glass of wine, a Bloody Mary, etc) to watch city life unfold. After all this walking and shopping, I’m ready to imbibe.

4pm, El Lucero

Amy and I stop for a pre-dinner taco and beer at El Lucero. It’s here that I fall in love with panuchos. (I didn’t know what a panucho was either.) Panuchos are a specialty food of the Yucatán—refried tortillas stuffed with refried black beans and topped with a combo of pulled chicken, chopped cabbage, tomato, avocado, pickled red onions, and jalapeno pepper. Oh panucho, you had me at ‘refried’. While beer is not my go-to drink, it’s Mexico, and Corona pairs perfectly with my panucho.

6pm, Patio Petanca

The next stop on our pre-dinner progressive food tour is Patio Petanca. A graffiti-covered metal door opens up to an outdoor courtyard space with two boule courts and piles of games to keep one’s mind sharp throughout happy hour.

In Merida, boules is known as petanque, hence the name Patio Petanca. The petanque court takes up nearly all of Patio Petanca’s modest space. We opt for the less active game of giant Jenga and enjoy what I can safely say is the world’s best taco.

730pm, Terraza Picheta

A mini rainstorm has us shelter in place for another beer and the world’s best taco before we head back toward the center of Mérida. Just off the north side of the ~~square~~ circle is Terraza Picheta, a rooftop bar and restaurant known for its sunset views. The cathedral in the east dominates the panoramic views. Bravo, Terraza Picheta, you win the Mérida location lottery.

Finally, we are off to dinner. Am I hungry? I’m not sure. But, I’m happy for the 15-minute stroll to Micaela Mar & Lena. It’s an opportunity to see the streets of Mérida come alive at night and burn a few calories ahead of my next meal.

930pm, Micaela Mar & Lena

Local Mayan, Caribbean, Spanish, North African, and Middle Eastern cultures influence yucatán cuisine. It’s no wonder food is the center of Mérida’s universe. Our dinner at Micaela Mar & Lena proves that simple, unfussy food trumps all.

Micaela is set in a historic home with ambient lighting, a bright color palette, and a convivial buzz. Mar & Lena translates to sea and grill, which means that although seafood-centric, there are no wrong choices on the menu.

Dinner starts late and ends very late. I’ve spent all day eating, drinking, sightseeing, and shopping in Mérida. I’m shattered, but happily so.

Adios, Mérida

Amy and I wander back to her Airbnb, buzzing from the wine, satiated from heaving plates of gorditas, uchepos, and guacamole. The temperatures have cooled off, and the streets are quieter the further we get from the city’s heart. I hear a woman singing somewhere in the distance. Her soprano notes cut through the air and carry up into the night sky. In a city chock full of energy and vitality, it’s a theatrical ending to my adventure. Adios, Mérida.

Discover The Best of Mérida’s with my full-color 10-page e-guide. Download it here!

Looking for more hidden gems and unique experiences in Mérida?

• Explore four off-the-beaten-path cenotes

• Savor authentic Yucatan cuisine on a walking food tour

• Explore the Celestún biosphere on a guided boat ride

• For Foodies Only: A private guided food tour of Mérida

Mérida: FAQs

Where is Mérida? On Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, Mérida sits 35 km from the Gulf. Fly straight into Manuel Crescencio Rejón International Airport or land in Cancún International Airport and drive three scenic hours west.

Best time to visit? November–March. Warm days, cool nights, and zero humidity drama. Summer’s hot, rainy season’s short-lived.

Why go? Mérida is history wrapped in color—Mayan roots, colonial charm, and slow, sun-drenched afternoons. Stroll Paseo de Montejo, swim in cenotes, listen to music in the plazas. It whispers, not shouts.

Is it pricey? Nope. Boutique stays, tacos, and mezcal nights are surprisingly affordable. Even splurges don’t sting.

August 8, 2024
Stowe in Summer: 10 of the Best Ways to get Local

A few summers ago, my husband and I decided to head north. To live village life, country life, and a less rushed life in the mountains of Stowe. My parents’ house was empty, and it seemed an ideal way to escape the oppressive DC heat—a way to break the monotony that had gradually manifested over the past few months.

We packed up only the most essential items: our kids, our dogs, a few hundred Nespresso capsules, and cornhole. As it turned out, our essentials don’t fit in one car, so we took two and began our 10-hour caravan to New England. We’ve been living in Stowe for over a month now, and while our kids ~~may~~ do feel slightly differently, it was the decision of the year for me and Daniel. I’ve learned a lot about living a simple life. For one, I’ve discovered that while big luxuries are great, little luxuries are even greater.

I’ve compiled a list of the things that Stowe and village life have given me—a mix of the tangible and intangible. A list of things I hadn’t thought much about but now seem overwhelmingly luxurious. My list is by no means complete and is seen through my tiny, rose-colored lens. I am excited for this list to grow as we spend more time in New England. But for now, and in no particular order, are the 10 things I have learned to appreciate, love, and (dare I say?) consider true luxuries about Stowe living.

Click here for my free Stowe Summer Hot Sheet

THE BEST OF STOWE #1: THE RECREATION PATH

Looping gently around the town of Stowe and covering 5.3 scenic miles is the much-loved Rec Path. The path is beautifully maintained and easily accessible. One natural starting point is directly behind the Stowe Community Church, the soaring centerpiece of the village. However, there are countless places to enter and exit the serpentine route.

Sixteen meticulously kept wooden bridges appear intermittently, crying out for photo ops as they arch over clear, stone-filled streams. The low rumble of bikes that pass over the wooden slats would alert me to their oncoming presence. Tots on tricycles would whiz past me, their parents racing to catch up. Bikers, walkers, and runners share the meandering path, which bends and curves around and behind the town’s main streets.

Lovely, hidden picnic spots dot the water’s edge, and I often hear kids splashing and squealing by the banks. A picturesque way to burn calories, the Rec Path has just the right balance of shade and sun, streams and fields, and cows and gardens to keep me entertained for a few hours.

Often, we bike to the back garden of Idletyme Brewing Co., a local restaurant, and enjoy a well-earned drink to cool off. It has an idyllic location on Mountain Road and the Rec Path. Fried pickles tempt me, which is no surprise if you read ahead to little luxury #3. Oversized, soft pretzels come hanging on a stand with various dipping sauces. Daniel always orders a flight of local IPAs from the tap.

THE BEST OF STOWE #2: THE QUIET PATH

If the Rec Path doesn’t conjure up a Norman Rockwell portrait, the Quiet Path certainly does. Built as a low-impact extension of the Rec Path, the mown grass pathways keep the Quiet Path true to its name.

The 1.8-mile panoramic route hugs the perimeter of tall, rapidly-growing cornfields and a burbling stream filled with beaver dams that my dogs always seem to destroy inadvertently. Alpine views are within sight, as is the steeple of the community church in the distance at specific points along the way.

Foot traffic only, whether four-legged or two, is allowed, and I found it amusing to read that dogs need to be under voice or leash control. Voice control is certainly not guaranteed with my two willful dogs, but luckily, I have yet to be reprimanded.

THE BEST OF STOWE #3: THE FARMERS’ MARKET

Sunday mornings quickly became something to look forward to when every day was beginning to feel like a Sunday. What was once a small smattering of vendors has since blossomed into a destination unto itself—the Stowe Farmers’ Market. A gathering of local vegetable producers, cheese vendors, ice cream makers, handmade crafts, and a variety of ethnic food stalls, the market offers different tastes and treats for the widely differing taste buds in my family.

My favorite food stall is Green Mountain Potstickers. Homemade dough that is just the right consistency, and balanced with the optimal amount of fillings—like edamame, scallions, chives, and tofu, for starters. Their scallion pancakes easily compete with those I’d had long ago in Beijing, as do the cold sesame noodle salads topped with julienne-sliced veggies.

The list of vendors and artisans at the Stowe Farmer’s Market has grown since the summer of COVID. Some of my favorites include Two Sons Bakehouse, Sage Farm Goat Dairy, and Stephanie Grace Ceramics. I don’t know how someone could pass by her stall without wanting to buy one of her magnificent porcelain creations. I certainly couldn’t.

The market is open from 10am-2pm from May through October. Go for lunch and be sure to grab a picnic table in the shade.

Click Here For My Free Stowe Summer Hot Sheet

THE BEST OF STOWE #4: SAGE FARM

I discovered that one of the Farmers’ Market vendors is just up the road from our house. Sage Farm Goat Dairy is a picture-perfect, Insta-ready, and family-run goat farm located on Upper West Hill Road. The weathered gray barn/farm store sits neatly next to a field of wildflowers and a tattered wooden fence. A small sign invites customers to walk in. The store is unattended and provides an honesty box alongside the refrigerated case of small-batch artisanal goat cheeses and fresh eggs.

Chickens peck noisily at the ground; some days, we spotted the goats roaming the fields. They have a bucolic spot, those lucky alpine goats. By the smug look on their long faces, I’m guessing that they know it.

THE BEST OF STOWE #5: FROM MARIA’S GARDEN

A pretty, gray, clapboard house sits at the top of Cape Cod Road; the charming roadside flower stand called From Maria’s Garden. Mason jar-filled wildflowers are presented daily, as are hand-cut bouquets and potted plants. A price list and honesty jar sit nearby, and she recently let me know that she has had the honor system in place since 1987—honesty—a popular Stowe theme.

As her website notes, Maria escaped the corporate life in NYC to live a simpler one in Vermont. She is a certified floral designer. Aside from her daily roadside flowers, she designs for weddings and events.

Every time I drive past, I am tempted to buy, and during our first few weeks in Stowe, I did just that. The homespun feeling that radiates from the colorful property is magnetic, and I have often seen Maria’s husband, shears in hand, cutting for the day’s arrangements.

Lately, noticing the variety of wildflowers that are blooming in our own backyard, I’ve started to create my own masterpieces. Although I think I need a little help. I wonder if Maria is available for lessons?

THE BEST OF STOWE #6: STOWE VILLAGE

The village of Stowe has a storybook setting, just the right amount of charm, quaint shops, ice cream parlors, and lively (modern definition: ‘socially distant’ lively) restaurants to wander and explore. Stowe village is slow-paced, an inherent part of its charm.

My son and I bike to breakfast some mornings, passing acres of cornfields and barns, and sit outside at his favorite, Café on Main. We eavesdrop on the locals gossiping over their coffees and Stowe Reporters. Little shops hide behind big shops. Stowe has many lovely historic homes to gawk over; photographing them became another daily pastime.

The Historic Old Depot houses one of my favorite Stowe treasures, Bear Pond Books. Perhaps because it was ‘born’ the same year I was, 1970. Or that it’s a 2nd generation, family-owned, independent bookstore that’s still going strong despite the rise of Amazon. In 35 years, I’ve never visited Stowe without getting lost in the aisles of Bear Pond.

Jennifer Hale, the owner, and her staff handpick the books. Her sweet pup, Tucker, curls up on a bed behind the register. I wonder if he, too, has a say in the book choices, as there are a lot of canine-related tomes. It feels highly curated, warm, and inviting, even on the coldest winter days. I rarely leave empty-handed.

A notable Stowe fact is that neon signs are strictly forbidden. Yet another way that Stowe can maintain its charm. Until I found myself in a non-neon environment, I realized how much of my life is neon-filled. Its absence has been refreshing.

THE BEST OF STOWE #7: STOWE TRAILS

The countless hiking and mountain biking trails could take up a post of their own. Suffice it to say that hiking has become one of my go-to activities over the years, and Stowe has more mountains, gorges, notches, summits, and waterfalls than I have time to tackle.

One morning, Daniel and I hiked to Sterling Pond. A steep, natural rock staircase welcomed us to the 2-mile climb and got my legs fired up faster than I was prepared for. Dense foliage, streams, and wet rocks gave way to tall pines, signaling that the summit was close. Moss-covered stones, fallen tree trunks, wild mushrooms, and a plush carpet of ferns covered the mountain floor. The reward for our efforts was a glorious, serene pond, which, to me, should be called a lake. Whatever it is called, it was a beautiful sight after an arduous climb.

Our next morning of hiking started with a steep, 4.5-mile switchback drive to the top of the Toll Road, followed by an hour-long open vista hike (The Long Trail) to the ‘chin’ of Mt Mansfield. There, we were rewarded with blue skies and 360-degree views of the area. We looked down over the grass-covered winter ski runs and gazed out towards the distant layers of overlapping mountains. My favorite kind of hike—one that both starts and ends at the top. Views rule.

While hiking back towards the car, we passed a man with a butterfly net, who we learned was actually searching for dragonflies. Although not just any dragonfly—he was on a mission to spot a particularly elusive species. Since then, I’ve taken note of the dragonflies I see every day at the pond after not having given them any thought before.

Click Here for My Free Stowe Summer Hot Sheet

THE BEST OF STOWE #8: WILDLIFE, VERMONT-STYLE

Who needs Africa to experience wildlife? In Stowe, I’ve seen beavers, frogs, hummingbirds, dragonflies, chipmunks, cows, gophers, snakes, horses, and even a pair of berry-eating bears. While not the traditional ‘big five,’ wildlife is fascinating regardless of size.

One early morning in July, my walk revealed a world of beaver dams, vivid clusters of fiery tiger lilies, dilapidated barns, and grazing cows. Even if I chose the same route to walk each day, I would inevitably spot something I hadn’t seen the day before, which was due, in part, to the ever-changing light, weather conditions, and bovine behavior.

I stopped mid-run one day to take a photo of a cornfield and found myself at a stand-off with a suspicious gopher. While stretching, later on, I caught a Monarch butterfly feasting on a flower. I never stop in my DC life. In Stowe, I stop and, in doing so, am rewarded with the littlest, most beautiful sights.

THE BEST OF STOWE #9: AL FRESCO DINING

Being such a popular, all-season travel destination, it isn’t surprising that Stowe has restaurants and cafés to suit just about everyone. Having had years of local eating under my belt (literally and figuratively), I came to town armed with a few faves.

The Bistro at Ten Acres has been perched at the junction of Luce Hill Road and Barrows Road for as long as I can remember and has always been my parents’ favorite. We sat outside for dinner, watching a particularly remarkable sunset one night, and wondered what it would be like to cash it all in and make the simple life of Stowe a permanent one.

Even outdoors, the Bistro at Ten Acres feels intimate. A musician played guitar, just far enough from the patio so that we could still have a conversation. The dry summer air made the night memorable, as did my lovely spring pesto over homemade linguini.

At 91 Main Street, California-inspired Plate became a new favorite. The owners, originally from LA, have been in Stowe for years. Their menu is described as being able to satisfy meat lovers and hard-core vegans. I’m not vegan, but I gravitated toward the vegan dishes when we visited. I thought the vegan crab cake starter was a menu highlight, as was the Tofu Ramen and Plate’s interpretation of a veggie burger. The wine list was incredibly well-thought-out, and I’d be lying if I said that didn’t somehow factor into our return throughout the month.

THE BEST OF STOWE #10: MOUNTAIN SCENERY

Bucolic pastoral scenes that appear to be lifted from the canvas of a Wyeth abound. Wispy streaks of yellow grasses and lavender wildflowers lay against green pastures and distant blue skies. This led to an epiphanic moment.

After having spent days wondering why the sunsets seem to be more colorful in Vermont or the clouds more defined, I finally realized that it had nothing to do with the sun or the clouds at all. It’s the scenery against which the sunsets set and the cloud formations sit above that make it more spectacular. The sky can be gorgeous anywhere, like over the NJ Turnpike, for instance, but it wouldn’t look quite as pretty. (No offense, NJ). It’s the surrounding scene that makes it extraordinary.

The late afternoon thunderstorms that pass through mountainous Stowe instantly turn on all of the primary colors of the landscape. At times, we’ve been able to see both the incoming storm and the blue sky at exactly the same time. The dark clouds would inevitably swallow up the sky, and then bright blue would once again emerge.

After one particularly fast and furious morning storm, I witnessed a full rainbow that was so bright that it glowed.

SUMMER ISN’T OVER, YET

Tomorrow, I head back to DC. Our house in Vermont has felt like another world, and the change of scenery has been healthy on many levels. I’ve realized that I can define luxury in more ways than I had thought. Luxury is personal. It’s spotting a photo-worthy pond, buying pickles at a farmers’ market, or goat cheese from a barn with an honesty box.

How do you define luxury? It’s worth finding out.

Click here for my free Stowe summer hot sheet

Interactive Map of My Favorite Stowe Places

Trip map created using Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

June 15, 2024
How To Spend 12 Hours In Georgetown (Like A Local)

I’ve lived in Washington, D.C., for nearly 14 years. Aside from my childhood home, it’s the longest I’ve lived in any one place. Our nation’s capital has been good to me. It offers all the things I love in one bite-sized city. If DC is the solar system I reside in, Georgetown is my favorite planet.

When friends and family visit, they ask how I’d spend an ideal day in DC. While the city offers world-class museums, monuments, and parks, I always gravitate toward Georgetown’s historic and cobbled streets. It’s a microcosm of the city that can be easily explored in a day.

If the last time you traveled to Washington DC was on your 4th-grade class trip, it’s time to come back. The monuments haven’t changed much since 1982, so add Georgetown to your itinerary. Need a cheat sheet? I’ve got you covered.

Good Morning, Georgetown

I start my day with Wordle and an oat milk cappuccino. Those mornings, I find myself in Georgetown, where my favorite place to caffeinate is the DC-founded Compass Coffee. The cavernous space takes over part of the old Georgetown movie theater. It has a fun, buzzy vibe filled with laptop-toting, pajama-wearing Georgetown University students.

I bring my laptop but leave my pajamas at home, where they belong, and soak up their collective collegiate energy. Inevitably, I’ll start to reminisce about my university days. That leads me to wonder what my daughter is up to at college right now. Where does she get her coffee? Then, I think about writing a post about Seattle. Or, about coffee. Or, about coffee in Seattle. What was her starting Wordle word? Next thing I know, three hours have passed, and I’ve nothing to show for it but an empty mug and a disappointing 5/6 Wordle score.

Insider Tip: According to the ever-studious Georgetown University students, the seating area behind the coffee machines is the best place to meet up and get work done.

Café Love

All that daydreaming and non-productiveness makes me hungry. Thankfully, Georgetown has lots of dining options. When I’m ready for lunch, one of my go-to spots is Peacock Café.

PC: Peacock Café

Brotherly Love

Brothers Shahab and Maziar Farivar opened Peacock Café as a six-seat take-out restaurant in 1991. It’s now one of the most adored cafés in Georgetown. Every day feels like a carefree summer Friday at Peacock, and that has everything to do with Shahab’s sunny disposition when he greets guests at the door.

Peacock Café’s side street location off Wisconsin Avenue is filled with locals, as many tourists don’t veer from the main drag. The entire menu tempts me. But being a creature of habit, I always order the Ahi Tuna Salad. Maziar’s thinly sliced, seared sushi-grade tuna on a bed of arugula drizzled with sesame lemon gets me every time.

Insider Tip: You can take a chance and walk in at Peacock (Shahab will undoubtedly do his best to accommodate), but it’s a better bet to reserve on Open Table.

A must-have for visiting Georgetown—Download My $10 E-Guide for insider’s local knowledge here

PC: Yellow

The Sunny Side of the Street

Farther up Wisconsin is Yellow the Café. Yellow opened in 2022, and lunch in Georgetown hasn’t been the same since. There’s been a recent uptick in ethnic eateries like Shouk, Taim, and Simply Banh Mi, but I love Yellow best.

I love the easygoing, modern, and sunny decor. My mouth waters at the menu of mezze, hummus, and wood-fired pitas. I love the fusion of French cooking techniques and Middle Eastern flavors. And I love the fancy coffee program (yes, I can have multiple favorite coffee shops in Georgetown!). Without fail, a Baklava Latte or Coconut Cardamom Iced Coffee always satiates my second wave of caffeine cravings.

More than anything—I love that multicultural restaurants are thriving in Georgetown. It’s about time.

Insider Tip: The line starts to form by 11 a.m. on weekends, so be sure to arrive early if Yellow the Café is your brunch spot of choice. On weekdays, Yellow offers online ordering for pick-up

Book Hill—Georgetown’s Design District

In Georgetown, there’s no better way to burn off Coconut Cardamom calories than shopping. Of all the things to do in Georgetown, shopping is my guiltiest pleasure. Georgetown has its fair share of chain stores like Patagonia, CB2, and Apple. But the real gems of this lustrous neighborhood lie in the spaces between them.

Technically speaking, Book Hill is the Georgetown area from O Street to Reservoir Road along Wisconsin Avenue. It’s a section of Georgetown becoming known for high-end home decor shops, French boulangeries, and art galleries. Whether I feel like gallery hopping, window shopping, or increasing my step count, there’s much to keep me busy in Book Hill.

PC: Ally Banks Interiors

Women-Powered

Ally Banks Interiors and Pillar & Post are independent, female-owned boutiques in Book Hill. Ally Banks is one of DC’s most sought-after interior designers, who, after years in the industry, started her Georgetown shop. On any given day, I might come across a hand-woven Moroccan rug, a series of pen-and-ink drawings by Darrell Dean, or a set of Acacia Wood Salt and Pepper Mills I can’t live without. Ally’s highly curated sensibilities are on full display and are as timeless and extraordinary as her wares.

Insider Tip: Ally’s website is not only beautifully designed, it has items not found in her brick-and-mortar store.

Pillar & Post

Pillar & Post is just a few storefronts away and specializes in British antiques, gifts, and furnishings. Inspired by her frequent visits to London (her parents lived there for 15 years), owner Daphna Peled left US politics to bring a touch of UK royalty to Georgetown. Her keen eye for all things beautiful means her bi-annual scouting trips result in treasures for commoners like me.

I might spy an antique dressing mirror, a Tambour Top Writing Slope, an 18th-century botanical print, or a Victorian Chamber Pot. I can’t help but feel I’m stepping onto the set of Downton Abbey whenever I walk into Daphna’s time-transporting boutique.

Insider Tip: Daphna says she has much more in storage than she has on display in her shop or on her website. So be sure to ask if you are looking for something special from across the pond.

Late Afternoon Retail Therapy

A day in Georgetown isn’t complete unless each of my senses is stirred. The first time I entered the Georgetown outpost of Le Labo, the famous NYC-based perfumery, I let the distressed walls, peeling painted doors, and wooden planked floors fool me. I quickly discovered there are no bargains to be found at Le Labo. But ohhhhhhh, who cares? I must have a signature scent! After much sniffing, sneezing, whiffing, and wafting, I decided mine is Another 13. Want to find yours? For a price, there’s a signature scent for everyone.

Insider Tip: The Le Labo Discovery Set is an economical way to find a favorite scent.

Created For: I am Lost and Found

Shop Made In DC is my new favorite place to buy gifts. As the name implies, everything sold at Shop Made in DC is—made in DC. Having been a full-time designer, a short-term ceramicist, and an all-time lover of art, I can happily get behind a place that celebrates and supports local artists.

Shop Made in DC sells apothecary products to fill my bathtub, chocolate-laden gift boxes to fill my stomach, and unique hand-crafted items to fill my holiday stockings. That the inventory is always refreshed with new and exciting artists has me shopping Made in DC often.

Don’t miss this: Shop Made in DC offers classes to spark our creative sides. Collage, candle-making, or wine and watercolor, anyone? Check their website for details.

Craft Cocktails and Cozy Dinners

Originally a 1783 tavern established by clockmaker John Suter, The Fountain Inn (aka Suter’s Tavern) is reborn as an intimate spirits tasting room in Upper Georgetown. If you believe in history, Suter’s is known to be the first stagecoach stop in Georgetown for presidents and locals alike.

The see-and-be-seen watering hole of the 90s (the 1790s, that is), this moody, dramatic, and ambiently lit space has over 250 rare and vintage sips and craft cocktails. It’s an ideal venue to relax after a day on the go. If it was good enough for Washington, it’s certainly good enough for me.

Insider Knowledge: George Washington slept here (really!) In his diary dated March 28, 1791, he wrote, “dined (and lodged) at Suter’s Tavern.” I read this on the internet so it’s definitely true.

In Cady’s Alley

Cady’s Alley’s super sexy Kyojin Sushi has been number one on my Georgetown restaurant list for some time. Signature dishes like Tataki-style seared fish with French caviar, truffle wasabi, chili yuzu, or garlic ponzu have me opening a tab for Open Table as I write.

It seems I’m not the only person in DC with Kyojin on their wish list. The next available Friday reservation is at 530pm. I grab it anyway. I’ll call it a late lunch. Everyone knows that 5:30pm is the new 7:30pm.

I check out the menu: A5 Wagyu topped with Hokkaido uni, BBQ Eel Bowl, and Lavender-Smoked Salmon. These descriptions make me miss our years in Tokyo. Kyojin’s website claims that no two dining experiences are alike. I’ll be there at 530pm sharp to make sure you deliver on your promise, Chef Kannasute.

Don’t miss this: Kyojin’s Smoke Box includes a choice of Sashimi, Yuzu Ice, Chili Yuzu, Carpaccio Sauce, and Garlic Ponzu—all Cold Smoked with Lavender.

PC: The Graham

Late-ish Drinks and Snacks

It’s hard to call it quits just because I’ve finished dinner at 7:15pm. The Rooftop at the Graham is just the place to soak up what’s left of the sunlight and admire sweeping city views. On the off-chance I’m still hungry, I can enjoy ceviche, charcuterie, or hand-crafted tacos. At minimum, I sink into one of the rooftop sofas and order my go-to cocktail—a cucumber mint martini—the surest and fastest way to end my night. Worth it!

Insider Tip: The Graham is a historic luxury hotel nestled on the banks of the Potomac River. This would be my pick if I ever needed a hotel in Georgetown. It’s not only historic but also romantic. For more romantic ideas and activities in Washington, DC, click here. Pay special attention to #6 on the list. I’m thrilled to have been named a local expert on Redfin’s Apartment Guide.

Good Night, Georgetown

Georgetown has much to brag about for a neighborhood under two square miles. Its former residents include Julia Child, JFK, and Elizabeth Taylor. Films shot here include The Exorcist, St. Elmo’s Fire, and Wedding Crashers. It has wide green spaces, a wide and wild blue(ish) river, and wildly famous cupcakes.

I always look for new places to eat, shop, walk, explore, and drink in my adopted hometown. But somehow, I always seem to find myself wandering the streets of Georgetown. Fourth grade was eons ago. It’s time to come back.

A must-have for visiting Georgetown—Download My $10 E-Guide for insider’s local knowledge here

Have more than 12 hours? Just click on these popular Georgetown crowd-pleasers:

• The Taste of Georgetown Walking Food Tour

• DC‘s Hop-on Hop-off Tour by Open-top Bus with 17 Stops

I’m all about working remotely these days! Does working as a digital nomad appeal to you?
If so, take a peek at these online opportunities at Jooble.

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

November 15, 2023
5 Travel Wish List Destinations That Will Inspire

I am Lost and Found’s original tagline was ‘Luxury Travel.’ Over the years my travel tastes evolved and ‘luxury travel’ felt limiting. Plus, I wasn’t only traveling to luxury hotels anymore. So I changed it to ‘Adventure and Luxury Travel.’ Eventually, even that felt limiting. I thought about the goals of my site. I am Lost and Found inspires travel—so ‘Inspiring Travel’ it is. Ready for inspiration? Follow along for five travel wish list destinations I’m dreaming about right now.

It’s another sticky, steamy day in DC. I should be doing something productive. Instead, I’m at my local coffee shop sipping an iced latte and daydreaming about future travels. I spin the globe in my mind. Green continents and blue oceans swirl together like a Van Gogh immersion experience. It takes my attention away from today’s news where most of the world is covered in a sheath of orange and red.

I pause over Norway—an appealing place right now for obvious reasons. Breathing crisp, cool, Arctic air sounds blissful. I take another sip of coffee and add it to my travel wish list, suddenly energized to write.

I keep spinning the globe. The next few hours unfold easily.

Join me as I waste time. Time that could be spent figuring out the dinner my kids will complain about least or watching the next intestine-twisting episode of The Bear. Read along for the next installment of my top five travel wish list destinations. Lord knows my husband will regret he didn’t join me this morning. This post is going to cost him.

Travel Wish List: 5 / Manshausen Island, Norway

A telling indicator a place belongs on my travel wish list is when I can’t contain my emotions after discovering it. Those times I frantically fire off picturesque screen grabs to my husband, Daniel, and impatiently wait for a thumbs-up emoji—eager to book it before he can blink. This is exactly how I feel when I look at Manshausen Island’s website. Obsessed.

Manshausen’s seven modern sea cabins and two sea towers hover over the water. Glass windows take full advantage of the spectacular views. It’s easy to see why the sea cabins have won so many design awards. They’ve adopted a ‘compact living’ mentality, focusing on comfort and ‘calm minimalism’. I’ve never heard of calm minimalism but I’d love to book a one-way ticket there and never look back.

Where is Manshausen Island?

Manshausen is a 55-acre island off the coast of northern Norway, across the fjord of the Lofoten Islands. In the late 1600s, Manhausen was a trading post. Today, it’s owned by famous polar explorer, writer, and photographer, Børge Ousland who turned Manshausen into one of the world’s best-kept secret adventure destinations.

I deep dive into Børge Ousland’s Wikipedia page. Ousland began his career as a Norwegian Special Forces Officer. In 1994, he made the first unsupported trek to the North Pole from Russia’s Arctic Cape. Then, as if that wasn’t bad-ass enough, in 1996 Børge Ousland was the first person to cross Antarctica solo. That he did it unsupported, on skis, and over 58 days makes my head spin like the globe I was daydreaming about earlier. Oh, and then he got married at the North Pole in 2012. Ok, Børge, simmer.

What to do on Manshausen Island?

Some activities on Manshausen Island abide by the seasons while others are enjoyed year-round. Sea kayaking, fishing, trekking, mountain climbing, traversing, cave touring, and eagle spotting are just a few of the Nordic adventures on hand. Add on wellness and culinary programs that touch upon all of the senses and it’s pretty clear why this island north of the Arctic Circle is so captivating.

Børge Ousland notwithstanding, visitors don’t need to be polar explorers or Special Ops to fall for Manshausen. Coastal museums, fortresses, fishing villages, and the original 1690 trading post are travel-worthy attractions nearby. Personally, I’d be content sitting at my panoramic sea cabin window with a cozy blanket, the latest Ann Patchett novel, and a glass of wine.

USP (Unique Selling Point) #1: The Northern Lights in the winter or the midnight sun in the summer? How to choose when to visit this Arctic escape from reality? Manshausen Island will just have to count as two travel wish list destinations. Do I see another thumbs-up, Daniel?

USP #2: Børge Ousland.

Click Here. Get My Wish List Destination Hot Sheet Free.

Travel Wish List: 4 / Katmai National Park, Alaska

I count eight brown bears wading in the current. I see two bear cubs lumbering over slick boulders, pawing one another like feisty toddlers. A gull swoops overhead catching the attention of mama bear, who is competing with another bear for a fishing spot. The gulls’ caws, the gurgling river, and the steady gush of waterfalls are the only discernable sounds.

I’m not at Katmai National Park, but oh how I wish I was. Instead, I’m one of 2393 wildlife ~~geeks~~ enthusiasts simultaneously viewing Alaskan brown bears on the Brooks Falls bear cam. I’ve been watching them for longer than you’d imagine possible and have even started giving names to my faves.

Where is Katmai National Park?

Located on the Alaskan peninsula across from Kodiak Island, Katmai National Park and Preserve is 300 miles south of Anchorage. Katmai was designated a national monument in 1918 in order to protect it after a volcanic eruption in 1912. The area, 18 volcanoes strong (seven active), is also known as the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Whoever’s in charge of Katmai’s branding deserves a raise. I’d visit based on the name of that valley alone.

What to do at Katmai National Park?

The bears are the main attraction in this incredibly remote and untamed part of the American wilderness. That’s why I want to go. I want a front-row seat to see Yogi, Baloo, and Teddy catch sockeye salmon in real-time. The grainy webcam footage, while highly addictive, just isn’t cutting it.

Katmai is one of the top ten least visited national parks in the United States with just under 25,000 tourists last year. Compare that to Yellowstone’s 3 million and I’ve easily uncovered another great reason to visit.

The park is home to more than 2000 Alaskan brown bears. Grizzlies are the smaller species of brown bears and live further inland. If bears aren’t your thing, feel free to move on to my next travel wish list entry. But, if bears aren’t your thing, we should reconsider our friendship. Just kidding, I have lots of friends who don’t like bears.

Flightseeing, boating, catch-and-release fishing, backcountry hiking, and camping make Katmai National Park a haven for adventure seekers. There aren’t enough luxury hotel products on Earth to get me to camp in the backcountry though. That’s where the grizzlies are! My adventure mindset has limits.

USP: Grizzly bears, Alaskan brown bears, bear cubs, bears catching sockeye salmon, bears swimming, bears frolicking beneath waterfalls, Yogi, Baloo, and Teddy…

Travel Wish List: 3 / Wildflower Farms, New York

Built in 2022, Wildflower Farms is a modern ode to the Hudson Valley. Its tranquil and serene landscape seems to have sprouted up like the wildflowers for which it is named. An all-season boutique property, Wildflower Farms has an epicurean program that celebrates the region and a wellness program that celebrates healthy living. It’s clear there is much to celebrate at Wildflower Farms.

Where is Wildflower Farms?

Those who hail from the East Coast will have likely heard of the Hudson Valley. Just 90 miles north of New York City, the Hudson Valley is so renowned for natural beauty, it inspired an artistic movement. In the 19th century, the Hudson River School was founded by Thomas Cole and other landscape artists who were influenced by Romanticism.

The Hudson River School’s realistic paintings depict a pastoral world where humans and nature coexist in harmony. A romantic notion indeed! With 65 free-standing cabins and cottages set on 140 secluded acres, Wildflower Farms, an Auberge property, artfully continues the movement’s philosophy of awe and wonder.

What to do at Wildflower Farms?

The valley’s Hudson School may have been heavily influenced by romance but Wildflower Farms appeals to both couples and families alike. There are so many activities I want to take part in I’m considering asking if I can be a summer intern. Fall intern? Carrot peeler?

I can tell that a weekend at Wildflower Farms won’t be enough time for me to express my inner artist. Do I take a class in Botanical Mixology or Botanical Baking? Should I make pressed flower pottery or bake floral focaccia?

How do I choose the best ways to activate my sporty side (yes, Daniel, I have a sporty side)? Do I fly fish or forage, e-bike, or wine taste? Wine tasting is a sport, right? I scan the wellness menu. What if I can’t fit in Mountain Mat Pilates or a Sound Bath? Champagne problems at Wildflower Farms abound.

USP: Ridge Suites have views of the Shawangunk Mountain Range interrupted only by fields of wildflowers. We can either climb the rugged Shawangunks, admire them from the suite’s floor-to-ceiling windows, or grab a brush and start painting. Given enough time, I would happily do all three.

Click Here. Get My Wish List Destination Hot Sheet Free.

Travel Wish List: 2 / ULUM Moab, Utah

Some of our favorite vacations have been to national parks located in desert locations: Joshua Tree, Canyonlands, and Arches, among them. We’ve stayed at AirBNBs, rustic lodges, and super swanky hotels. But glamping at ULUM Moab is a class of accommodation all its own.

For anyone not familiar with glamping, it means ‘glamourous camping’, a term open to wide interpretation. I’ve glamped in places that were a far cry from the ‘glamour’ advertised. ULUM Moab appears to have found the sweet spot for adventure and luxury to coexist.

Its 50 safari-styled tent suites have private viewing decks. There are three dipping pools, a yoga deck, and modern common spaces that embrace indoor/outdoor life. Add in Parachute Linens, Aesop products, and bespoke Pendleton wool blankets, and this glamping destination offers better amenities than most traditional hotels.

Where is ULUM Moab?

Located 25 miles south of Moab and within reach of multiple national and state parks, ULUM Moab is a secluded desert paradise. The camp is set on 200 acres of red rock formations and mesas and is just steps from Looking Glass Arch. ULUM Moab is the ultimate introduction to the beauty of the American Southwest.

What to do at ULUM Moab?

On-site activities at ULUM Moab range from relaxing guided nature walks, sound bath meditations, yoga, and stargazing. Your Adventure Concierge (yes, that’s a thing) will help curate off-site excursions like white-water river rafting, kayaking, paddleboarding, National Park tours, and canyoneering. If you haven’t canyoneered, you haven’t lived. It’s one of the funnest activities of all time (and yes, I’m aware funnest isn’t a real word).

At night, as you prepare to stargaze, sit by the bonfire and make polite chit-chat with other like-minded adventurers. Swap stories about the slot canyons you discovered while canyoneering or how you snored through the sound bath. Then grab your Pendleton blanket, a bottle of wine, and settle into the dark skies and constellations above.

USP: With 360 mountain views by day and starry skies by night, ULUM Moab has perfected glamping—the ultimate way to get comfortable in nature.

Travel Wish List: 1 / Dolomites, Italy

The last time my insides physically ached from witnessing natural beauty was a few summers ago in Jackson, Wyoming. The Tetons were so striking, so unbelievably scenic in their razor-cut jaggedness, that I was compelled to photograph them for hours each day. By day three, my husband wanted to feed me to the bears. If the Italian Dolomites are making my insides ache just from my Instagram feed, I can’t imagine what would happen if I saw them in real life.

Where are the Dolomites?

The Dolomites are a mountain range in northeastern Italy. They are sometimes referred to as the ‘Pale Mountains’ due to the carbonate minerals in the rocks. In 2009, they were officially named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Dolomites have been around for millennia. Why it took so long for UNESCO to recognize them is a mystery.

The Dolomites boast some of the most unique and beautiful hotels in the world. Many of them have won awards for design and architecture. The hotels are so swoon-worthy, I wouldn’t know how to choose one without having FOMO about the others.

What to do in the Dolomites?

While renowned for winter skiing, there is much to do in the Dolomites in the summer months, too. This mesmerizing mountain range is the center of the region’s universe. It’s where the luckiest hotels face and the point from which many adventure activities revolve.

Some of the hotels in the Dolomites defy gravity, like the ultra-modern Alpin Panorama Hotel Hubertus. Others, like Forestis, have mountain-facing private pools that make it impossible to leave the room. Aman’s Rosa Alpina (soon to reopen) embraces traditional alpine architecture and has a restaurant with three Michelin stars.

Climbing, hiking, waterfall chasing, rafting, and mountain biking will appease those with an adventurous spirit. Wellness retreats, spas, and woodland walks will satisfy those looking to reset and recharge.

USP: With over 20 Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, the Dolomites are a wish list destination for foodies, too.

Wasting Time

It’s hot in DC, and just about everywhere else in the world right now. I’m sure the oppressive heat has much to do with how these travel wish list destinations came about. Fresh, crisp, mountain air, fields of wildflowers, calm desert-scapes, and bear-filled streams are all pretty enticing right now.

I imagine myself sitting here next January—cupping my latte, complaining about the cold, and daydreaming about warmer climes. I’ll once again spin the globe in my mind, excited to see where I land, and ready to write another batch of travel wish list destinations.

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Author’s Note: I am grateful to the hotels who kindly gave me high-res photos for use in this post. I’m also using Unsplash for the first time, and praise the photographers who are giving away their gorgeous photos for free. Typically, I only feature my own photos. But alas, if I had my own pictures of these wish list destinations, they wouldn’t be on my wish list.

July 30, 2023
Enchanted. Why Mii Amo is the best Sedona spa.

Mother/Daughter Adventures at the Best Sedona Spa

Air is air. Of course, it can be humid, dry, or wet. It can be conditioned or heated, still or sticky—the adjectives are endless. When I visited the Mii Amo spa in Sedona, I looked for words to describe the air. How did it feel? Neither crisp, nor brisk, nor thin, nor heavy. Then, it dawned on me. I wasn’t feeling anything. The air was imperceptible.

The beauty of not noticing the air is that my other senses are on much higher alert. Sounds become more pronounced, and colors more intense. Brilliant mesas and red rocks define the landscape of Sedona, which is about an hour-long drive from Scottsdale.

Along the drive to our Sedona resort and spa, Southern Arizona’s ubiquitous pale green Saguaro cacti were replaced by other shades of green. Prickly Pear cacti, cypress, sycamore, pine, and juniper trees took over the landscape. It was an arboreal introduction to the Sonoran Desert—our destination for the next few days—a Sedona spa tucked away in the desert wilderness.

Spa-bound, in Sedona

My mom, sister, and I were headed to Mii Amo, a resort and spa part of The Enchantment Resort in Sedona, Arizona. This gorgeous Sedona spa was awarded the #1 Best Destination Spa in the US for the second year in a row by Travel + Leisure Magazine. This coveted spa experience has the added luxury of being situated in one of the most alluring spots in the United States.

The famous ‘Red Rocks’ of Sedona surround Mii Amo. The resort and spa sit at an altitude of 4500 feet and are low in profile—nearly hidden in the Upper Sonoran Desert. It’s as if Arizona gave every architect in Sedona the same Benjamin Moore paint chips and said, ‘Please conform to the colors of the desert.’

Sedona’s Color and Light

Burnt reds, persimmons, ochres, and every shade of warmth in between live in Sedona, Arizona. But what makes the desert even more interesting are the clusters of unexpected and brazen greens. Sedona’s Verde Valley, or Green Valley, is named after the copper that was once mined in the area. The bold greens are a spectacular addition— an unanticipated contrast to the sun-lit rocks throughout the day.

The canyon walls are hundreds of millions of years of age. And comprised of nine staggering layers of stone. The receding oceans created the canyons. The result? Rock formations are a natural, visual wonderland. You need not be a geologist to appreciate the striations and layers of color and rock on museum-like display. Limestone, sandstone, and mud, among other elements, have made this piece of Arizona a literal hot spot.

As the light and shadows changed, I prepared to see something new emerge every hour. The mountain views never disappoint, whether with partly cloudy skies, cloudy skies, or full sun.

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Sedona’s Vistas, views, and Vortexes

Mii Amo means ‘one’s path or journey’. Feeling grateful to be guests at the best spa in Sedona, we decided to get started on that journey right away. My sister and I hiked to Vista Point around 6pm on our first evening in Sedona.

As an added convenience, guests can access many hiking paths from the property itself. The sun was already dipping towards the west. And our short hike to the viewpoint took about 20 minutes via a well-beaten red dirt path. We were told to look for a tree hugging itself,’ as that was a known vortex site. Upon reaching the point, however, it looked like every gnarled and twisted juniper was hugging itself.

The entire area is thought to be a vortex. A vortex is a swirling center of energy that many believe has healing and spiritual powers. Not one to deny an area of its spiritual power, I sat against a rock and decided to channel some positive energy.

Piles of delicate toppling rock cairns dotted the point, each one quietly declaring, ‘I was here!’. The silence was all-encompassing—a drastic change from my daily life in DC.

Desert Life at Sedona’s Best Spa

The setting sun was piercing and lit the upper third of the mountain range on fire. Whether or not one believes in the healing powers of the vortexes (or vortices, as I’ve recently learned), it was impossible not to feel inspired and restored there— the views were unparalleled.

I enjoyed it so much that I returned each day at different times. Once, I ventured out as early as 5am to catch sight of the hot air balloons that hovered over the distant mesa.

I was on high alert, ready to walk into a herd (aka squadron) of wild javelinas as I had done with my sister on our first hike. Rodent or pig? Neither, surprisingly. They are just strange 60-pound hairy mammals that roam the area.

I was reminded of the ROUS (Rodents Of Unusual Size) from the film The Princess Bride. Luckily, javelinas aren’t smart and have poor eyesight. Needless to say, I made it back to the resort unharmed.

Despite that encounter, my sister and I returned the next day. This time, our efforts were rewarded by finding a solo flutist upon a tall red rock. We were told he plays there often. However, we counted ourselves lucky to catch a performance. His ethereal music caught the wind and soared across the valley. It was mesmerizing.

Coffee Pot and other rocks around Sedona

Another day, we hired a local guide, an Apache Native American, and explored for a few hours. He was a proud man, a bit gruff, but very knowledgeable about the area.

From George, we learned to differentiate between the Prickly Pear and Agave plants. We learned how to loosen the nut from the cone of a pinola tree. And the different mating calls of the male quail. Our three-mile hike brought us past Coffee Pot and other luminous rock formations. We paused at an ancient birthing place and reflected on the size of the canyons around us.

A Peek Inside The Best Spa In Sedona

Sixteen casitas, some with hot tubs and indoor and outdoor fireplaces, are offered at Mii Amo. There’s a small juice bar, a café, a boutique, indoor/outdoor pools, and a gym. And, of course, the highly-regarded spa treatment area. The spa experience at Mii Amo is small and intimate. While the spa is only a short walk from Enchantment (its larger, family-friendly sibling), this Sedona spa feels a world away.

The rooms were clean and modern but felt dated and needed a facelift. Soon, a complete overhaul is expected to be revealed. Watch this space.

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Spa food reframed

The food at the café exceeded our expectations. For me, the inherent nature of ‘spa food’ has been synonymous with being tasteless. I was proven wrong at Mii Amo. Unsurprisingly, the best spa in Sedona would also have the best spa food.

Spinach, mushroom, and tomato frittatas. Almond chickpea pancakes with lemon ricotta, berries, and prickly pear syrup. Welcome to breakfast! A hearty but healthy way to get my day started. While caffeine and alcohol might be against the rules for some spas, they were readily available to the spa-goers of Mii Amo. I am not one of those people who can start my day without a kick of caffeine. Thank you, Mii Amo.

At This Sedona Spa, Three’s a charm

The front entrance of Mii Amo’s resort and spa is dramatic, with massive rock formations looming above. There is a shaded area of trees that are teeming with hummingbird activity. Attracted by the hanging feeders, I was told that at any given time of day, I would see at least a ‘charm’ of hummingbirds jostling for nectar.

Just a few steps beyond the entry, the Crystal Grotto is a small, cave-like room with a round opening to the sky. Here, one can sit peacefully in thought or be led in meditation by a guide.

Wanting to take advantage of the enchanting Sedona vibes, I went in a few times to enjoy the comforting sound of running water. Anytime I could find a moment of restoration or calm I was up for it, this was part of the reason I was here, after all.

The Sedona Spa: Juice life

At Mii Amo, our hardest daily decision was deciding which smoothie or juice to try. A rough life in the desert, for sure! My favorites were the Maca Smoothie (banana, almond butter, maca powder) and Renew Juice (rhubarb, strawberry, lime). A hint of jasmine permeated the air. And low enough to barely register was the sound of ethereal spa music.

The pool staff remembered our names and our favorite juices. They even reserved the loungers we preferred from the previous day. One especially thoughtful staff member made us feel like he’d known us for years. It was an impressive point of differentiation in the ever-demanding one-upmanship of the resort and spa industry.

The Best Spa In Sedona Exceeds Expectations

Depending upon your perspective, the variety of spa treatments and spa experiences at Mii Amo ranged from traditional to off-the-wall. I experimented with less traditional treatments like ‘Energy Clearing’ and ‘Past-Life Regression.’ I also tried several spa experience staples like a Shiatsu Massage and a Clay Wrap.

Our three-day package included six spa treatments during our stay (two 90-minute and four 60-minute). Sitting in the spa’s waiting room, we would meet people from all over the country. Many had been to Mii Amo more than once, and quite a few from Europe and beyond.

The spa staff had a warmth and genuine love of their craft. Each spa treatment opened my mind to new ways of seeing and listening. And each was as relaxing as I’d hoped. My mom, sister, and I all agreed that the spa treatments were restorative in multiple ways. Ways that I wish I could reproduce in my ‘real life.’

Experience the ethereal side of Sedona with this hidden gem: A Spiritual Vortex Tour

Beyond Mii Amo

After three days at the spa, we spent a few nights at the neighboring Enchantment Resort. We sat by the pool, enjoyed the spectacular views, and headed off-property for some sightseeing.

One highlight was the Chapel of the Holy Cross. An earth-toned and delicate chapel that looks as if it is hovering on the edge of a butte. Inspired by the Empire State Building in the 1930s, it was finally completed in 1957. Picturesque from every angle, the central cross of the chapel’s exterior dives directly into the red rocks.

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The best places to dine in Sedona

We chose our one dinner away from Enchantment with care. A friend had recommended Mariposa. We were lucky to get a coveted reservation on the patio at sunset.

The views and setting were magical, with fire-lit iron globes flanking the entrance. Many diners left their tables mid-meal (me included) to capture the colors in the sky. From what I remember, the food was good, but not the main reason for heading to Mariposa. That said, I would head back any day to watch the sky perform.

While we only had one dinner beyond Mii Amo’s sacred grounds, many other places in Sedona will wow visitors with views and fabulous food. Cress on Oak Creek is in the luxurious hotel Auberge de Sedona. Whether one chooses to dine inside or out, the creekside views are ever-romantic.

Elote is an award-winning modern Mexican restaurant that gets accolades from tourists and locals alike. With locally sourced ingredients and a lively atmosphere, Elote is a must-eat spot while visiting Sedona. Don’t miss the divine corn bisque, a menu highlight.

Tortas de Fuego is a brightly-lit Mexican eatery that specializes in (you know it, tortas). Also known for its burritos and nachos, no one will go home hungry after a meal in one of Sedona’s most popular jaunts.

One last hike at Sedona’s best spa

On my final morning, I took one last vista hike and decided to head out without a camera. I was afraid I would regret not having the chance to capture something that had eluded me before. For almost an hour, I sat in the shade, watching the sun creep along the edge of the rock formations. Was the light creating the character of the mountains or simply revealing it? Without the distraction of a camera, I was fully present in nature and lost in thought.

I’m not sure why I’m surprised that I was less distracted looking at the mountains with my eyes vs through a lens. But it was one of my favorite moments of the trip.

A few days after returning home from Sedona, I was listening to a podcast by Elizabeth Gilbert, the author of Eat, Pray Love. She confessed, “I prefer to live in an enchanted world.” A world where even the air is enchanted?

Well said, Ms. Gilbert. I’m right there with you.

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Author’s Note: The spa at Mii Amo re-opened after a full renovation. It looks spectacular. I am hoping to go next year.

July 10, 2023

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