A few summers ago, my husband and I decided to head north. To live village life, country life, and a less rushed life, in the mountains of Stowe. My parents’ house was currently empty, and it seemed an ideal way to escape the oppressive DC heat. A way to break the monotony that had gradually manifested over the past few months.
We packed up only the most essential items; our kids, our dogs, a few hundred Nespresso capsules, and cornhole. Our essentials, as it turned out, don’t fit in one car, so we took two and began our 10-hour caravan to New England. We’ve been living in Stowe for over a month now, and while our kids may do feel slightly differently, it was the decision of the year for me and Daniel. I’ve learned a lot about living a simple life. For one, I’ve discovered that while big luxuries are great, little luxuries are even greater.
I’ve compiled a list of the things that Stowe, and village life, have given me. A mix of the tangible and intangible. A list of things that I hadn’t thought much about in the past, but now seem overwhelmingly luxurious. My list is by no means complete and is seen through my tiny, rose-colored lens. I am excited for this list to grow as we spend more time in New England. But for now, and in no particular order, are the 10 things that I have learned to appreciate, love, and (dare I say), consider true luxuries about Stowe living.
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THE BEST OF STOWE #1: THE RECREATION PATH
Looping gently around the town of Stowe, and covering 5.3 scenic miles is the much-loved Rec Path. The path is beautifully maintained and easily accessed. One natural starting point is directly behind the Stowe Community Church, the soaring centerpiece of the village. However, there are countless places to enter, and exit, the serpentine route.
Sixteen meticulously kept wooden bridges appear intermittently, and cry for photo ops, as they arch over clear, stone-filled streams. The low rumble of bikes that pass over the wooden slats would alert me to their oncoming presence. Tots on tricycles would whiz past me, their parents racing to catch up. Bikers, walkers, and runners share the meandering path, which bends and curves around and behind the town’s main streets.
Lovely, hidden picnic spots dot the water’s edge, and I often hear kids splashing and squealing by the banks. A picturesque way to burn calories, the Rec Path has just the right balance of shade and sun, streams and fields, and cows and gardens, to keep me entertained for a few hours.
Often, we bike to the back garden of Idletyme Brewing Co., a local restaurant, and enjoy a well-earned drink to cool off. It has an idyllic location, being both on Mountain Road, and the Rec Path. Fried pickles tempt me, which comes as no surprise if you read ahead to little luxury #3. Oversized, soft pretzels come hanging on a stand with a variety of dipping sauces. Daniel always orders a flight of local IPAs from the tap.
THE BEST OF STOWE #2: THE QUIET PATH
If the Rec Path doesn’t conjure up a Norman Rockwell portrait, the Quiet Path certainly does. Built as a low-impact extension of the Rec Path, the mown grass pathways keep the Quiet Path true to its name.
The 1.8-mile panoramic route hugs the perimeter of tall, quickly-growing cornfields, and a burbling stream filled with beaver dams that my dogs always seem to destroy inadvertently. Alpine views are within sight, as is the steeple of the community church in the distance, at certain points along the way.
Foot traffic only, whether four-legged or two, is allowed, and I found it amusing to read that dogs need to be under voice or leash control. Voice control is certainly not guaranteed with my two willful dogs, but luckily I have yet to be reprimanded.
THE BEST OF STOWE #3: THE FARMERS’ MARKET
Sunday mornings quickly became something to look forward to, during a time when every day was beginning to feel like a Sunday. Small and unpretentious, and sitting just off Mountain Road, is the Stowe Farmers’ Market. A gathering of local vegetable producers, cheese vendors, ice cream makers, handmade crafts, and a variety of ethnic food stalls, the market offers different tastes and treats for the widely differing tastebuds in my family.
My favorite food stall is Green Mountain Potstickers. Homemade dough that is just the right consistency, and balanced with the optimal amount of fillings—like, edamame, scallions, chives, and tofu, for starters. Their scallion pancakes easily compete with ones I’d had long ago in Beijing, as do the cold sesame noodle salads topped with julienne sliced veggies.
I became obsessed with the pickled goods from Gizmo’s Pickled Plus. I knew I liked pickles before our summer in Stowe, but I didn’t know I liked them quite this much. Sunshine Pickles, Bread and Butter Chips, Corn Relish, Pickled Beets, and Sour Salty Dog Spears (the perfect beer-drinking pickle, they advertise) are just a sampling of what is on offer. When the vendor suggested I could get twelve jars for the price of ten, I scoffed. ‘Who could eat that many pickled things?’, I thought. Then I promptly went ahead and bought twelve.
All the pickled goods are freshly made, and preserved in original soda-lime glass mason jars. Gizmos just might top the list of what I will miss most when we head home. Although, I was told not to worry, as they ship worldwide. Phew, crisis averted.
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THE BEST OF STOWE #4: SAGE FARM
I discovered that one of the Farmers’ Market vendors is located just up the road from our house. Sage Farm Goat Dairy is a picture-perfect, insta-ready, and family-run goat farm located on upper West Hill Road. The weathered gray barn/farm store sits neatly next to a field of wildflowers and a tattered, wooden fence. A small sign invites customers to walk in. The store is unattended and provides an honesty box alongside the refrigerated case of small-batch artisanal goat cheeses and fresh eggs.
Chickens peck noisily at the ground, and some days we spotted the goats roaming the fields. They have a bucolic spot, those lucky alpine goats. By the smug look on their long faces, I’m guessing that they know it.
THE BEST OF STOWE #5: FROM MARIA’S GARDEN
A pretty, gray, clapboard house sits at the top of Cape Cod Road; the charming roadside flower stand called From Maria’s Garden. Mason jar-filled wildflowers are presented daily, as are hand-cut bouquets and potted plants. A price list and honesty jar sit nearby, and she recently let me know that she has had the honor system in place since 1987. Honesty—a popular Stowe theme.
As her website notes, Maria escaped the corporate life in NYC, to live a simpler one, in Vermont. She is a certified floral designer and aside from her daily roadside flowers, designs for weddings and events.
Every time I drive past, I am tempted to buy, and during our first few weeks in Stowe, I did just that. The homespun feeling that radiates from the colorful property is magnetic, and I have often seen Maria’s husband, shears in hand, cutting for the day’s arrangements.
Lately, noticing the variety of wildflowers that are blooming in our own backyard, I’ve started to create my own masterpieces. Although I think I need a little help. I wonder if Maria is available for lessons?
THE BEST OF STOWE #6: STOWE VILLAGE
The village of Stowe has a storybook setting, just the right amount of charm, quaint shops, ice cream parlors, and lively (modern definition: ‘socially distant’ lively) restaurants, to wander and explore. Stowe village is slow-paced, an inherent part of its charm.
My son and I bike to breakfast some mornings, passing acres of cornfields and barns, and sit outside at Café on Main, his favorite spot. We eavesdrop on the locals gossiping over their coffees, and Stowe Reporters. Little shops hide behind big shops. Stowe has many lovely historic homes to gawk over, and photographing them became another daily pastime.
The Historic Old Depot houses one of my favorite Stowe treasures, Bear Pond Books. Perhaps, because it was ‘born’ the same year I was, 1970. Or, that it’s a 2nd generation, family-owned, independent bookstore that’s still going strong, despite the rise of Amazon. In 35 years, I’ve never visited Stowe without getting lost in the aisles of Bear Pond.
Jennifer Hale, the owner, and her staff handpick the books. Her sweet pup, Tucker, curls up on a bed behind the register. I wonder if he, too, has a say in the book choices, as there are a lot of canine-related tomes. It feels highly curated, warm, and inviting, even on the coldest winter days. I rarely leave empty-handed.
A notable Stowe fact — neon signs are strictly forbidden. Yet, another way that Stowe is able to maintain its charm. Until I found myself in a non-neon environment, I realized how much of my life is neon-filled. Its absence has been refreshing.
THE BEST OF STOWE #7: STOWE TRAILS
The countless hiking and mountain biking trails could take up a post of their own. Suffice it to say, hiking has become one of my go-to activities over the years, and Stowe has more mountains, gorges, notches, summits, and waterfalls than I have time to tackle.
One morning, Daniel and I hiked to Sterling Pond. A steep, natural rock staircase welcomed us to the 2-mile climb and got my legs fired up faster than I was prepared for. Dense foliage, streams, and wet rocks gave way to tall pines, a signal that the summit was close by. Moss-covered stones, fallen tree trunks, wild mushrooms, and a plush carpet of ferns covered the mountain floor. The reward for our efforts was a glorious, serene pond, which to me, should really be called a lake. Whatever it is called, it was a beautiful sight after an arduous climb.
Our next morning of hiking started with a steep, 4.5 mile, switchback drive to the top of the Toll Road, followed by an hour-long open vista hike (The Long Trail) to the ‘chin’ of Mt Mansfield. There, we were rewarded with blue skies and 360-degree views of the area. We looked down over the grass-covered winter ski runs and gazed out towards the distant layers of overlapping mountains. My favorite kind of hike, both starting and ending at the top. Views rule.
While hiking back towards the car, we passed a man with a butterfly net, who we learned was actually searching for dragonflies. Although, not just any dragonfly—he was on a mission to spot a particularly elusive species. Since then, I’ve taken note of the dragonflies I see every day at the pond, after not having given them any thought before.
Click Here for My Free Stowe Summer Hot Sheet
THE BEST OF STOWE #8: WILDLIFE, VERMONT-STYLE
Who needs Africa to experience wildlife? In Stowe, I’ve seen beavers, frogs, hummingbirds, dragonflies, chipmunks, cows, gophers, snakes, horses, and even a pair of berry-eating bears. While not the traditional ‘big five’, wildlife is fascinating no matter what the size.
One early morning in July, my walk revealed a world of beaver dams, vivid clusters of fiery tiger lilies, dilapidated barns, and grazing cows. Even if I chose the same route to walk each day, I would inevitably spot something I hadn’t seen the day before, which was due, in part, to the ever-changing light, weather conditions, and bovine behavior.
I stopped mid-run one day to take a photo of a cornfield and found myself at a stand-off with a suspicious gopher. While stretching, later on, I caught a Monarch butterfly feasting on a flower. I never stop in my DC life. In Stowe, I stop, and in doing so am rewarded with the littlest, most beautiful sights.
THE BEST OF STOWE #9: AL FRESCO DINING
Being such a popular, all-season, travel destination, it isn’t surprising that Stowe has restaurants and cafés to suit just about everyone. Having had years of local eating under my belt (literally, and figuratively) I came to town armed with a few faves.
The Bistro at Ten Acres has been perched at the junction of Luce Hill Road and Barrows Road for as long as I can remember and has always been a favorite of my parents. We sat outside for dinner watching a particularly remarkable sunset one night and wondered what it would be like to cash it all in and make the simple life of Stowe a permanent one.
Even outdoors, the Bistro at Ten Acres feels intimate. A musician played guitar, just far enough from the patio so that we could still have a conversation. The dry, summer air certainly made the night memorable, as did my lovely spring pesto over homemade linguini.
At 91 Main Street, California-inspired, Plate, became a new favorite. The owners, while originally from LA, have been in Stowe for years. Their menu is described as being able to satisfy meat lovers to hard-core vegans. I’m not vegan but gravitated toward the vegan dishes when we visited. I thought the vegan crab cake starter was a highlight of the menu, as was the Tofu Ramen, and Plate’s interpretation of a veggie burger. The wine list was especially well-thought-out, and I’d be lying if I said that didn’t somehow factor into our return throughout the month.
THE BEST OF STOWE #10: MOUNTAIN SCENERY
Bucolic pastoral scenes that appear to be lifted from the canvas of a Wyeth, abound. Wispy streaks of yellow grasses and lavender wildflowers lay against green pastures and distant blue skies. This led to an epiphanic moment.
After having spent days wondering why the sunsets seem to be more colorful in Vermont, or the clouds more defined, I finally realized that it had nothing to do with the sun, or the clouds, at all. It’s the scenery against which the sunsets set, and the cloud formations sit above, that make it more spectacular. The sky can be gorgeous anywhere, like, over the NJ Turnpike, for instance, but it wouldn’t look quite as pretty. (No offense, NJ). It’s the surrounding scene that makes it extraordinary.
The late afternoon thunderstorms that pass through mountainous Stowe instantly turn on all of the primary colors of the landscape. At times, we’ve been able to see both the incoming storm and the blue sky at exactly the same time. The dark clouds would inevitably swallow up the sky, and then bright blue would once again emerge.
After one particularly fast and furious morning storm, I witnessed a full rainbow that was so bright, it glowed.
SUMMER ISN’T OVER, YET
Many of us are not able to travel like we used to, or want to, which is an unfortunate reality. Big trips have been interrupted, changed, or put on hold, indefinitely. Our time in Stowe has given me the chance to think more creatively, or as Steve Jobs would say, think differently.
Tomorrow I head back to DC. Our house in Vermont has felt like another world, and the change of scenery has been healthy on many levels. I’ve realized that I can define luxury in more ways than I had thought. Luxury is personal. For me, it is spotting a photo-worthy pond, buying pickles at a farmers’ market, or goat cheese from a barn with an honesty box. How do you define luxury? It’s worth finding out.
Click here for my free Stowe summer hot sheet
Interactive Map of My Favorite Stowe Places
