I am Lost and Found

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A Local’s Guide: These Places Will Make You Fall for Stowe

In 30 days, I’m moving to Stowe.

If my teenage self knew she’d one day be living in rural Vermont, she’d laugh that layer of AquaNet right off her teased head. That girl wasn’t destined for the slow life. She wouldn’t be caught dead in Muck Boots slogging along snow-covered roads. She’d be clicking down city sidewalks in stilettos.

Forty years later, that girl is a middle-aged woman. Now I’m the one laughing. Part giddiness and part nervous energy. How did I get here? What am I going to do in Vermont? And where can I get a cute pair of Muck Boots?

I’ve traveled to Stowe, Vermont, since childhood. But I’m just as surprised as that sassy teenager I’m choosing to live there permanently. Big cities have defined my decades—the aforementioned Manhattan sidewalks in my 20s and early 30s. Raising a family in Tokyo in my 40s, and then punching through 50 in the political maelstrom of DC. Each of these places has surpassed expectations. I have no doubt Stowe will follow suit.

Ok, maybe a little bit of doubt.

What I don’t doubt is the beauty of Vermont, and Stowe in particular. Stowe encapsulates New England charm. Don’t believe me? Ask any of the nearly one million visitors who flock to it each year. There are plenty of reasons to fall for Stowe. For those who don’t already know its wonders, allow me to introduce you.

I’ll start with Fall.

A Stowe for All Seasons

Stowe is a year-round destination. In winter, Mt. Mansfield dominates, with 116 runs over 485 acres of skiable terrain. The mountain appeals to all ski skill levels, and has enough snowshoeing trails and non-skiing activities to please any winter traveler. There’s just as much to do off the slopes as on them.

The village is a holiday postcard, with the Community Church acting like Santa’s beacon. When it’s lit up on a snowy night, the steeple casts an ethereal glow over Main Street. It feels as if you’ve stepped into an old winter’s tale.

In summer, bikers, hikers, dogs, and walkers share the Recreation and Quiet Paths that loop the town. The paths are dotted with low arching bridges over bubbling streams and wispy, golden fields. Layers of green mountains unfold in every direction.

Fall is Extraordinary

But Fall. Well, Fall is extraordinary. From September through late October, Stowe glows, fully aware it’s her moment to shine. Leaves the color of a golden retriever’s coat fall from skies whose only intention is to show them off.

In the Fall, the village is a hive of activity. Shoppers spill out of Bear Pond Books, arms piled high with fiction and fantasy. Kids ogle over jars of old-fashioned sweets at Stowe Mercantile, and wannabe interior designers fawn over the farm-chic wares at Farm Home Co.. Pumpkins pop up along West Hill Road, cradled in patches that conjure up Charlie Brown’s Halloween antics. Crumbling red barns make our hearts skip a beat and add a cinematic touch to the country scene.

But also in the Fall, Stowe becomes a wee bit challenging to navigate. The restaurants book up, and sharing the road becomes a lesson in kindness. But kindness abounds—because everyone is just so damn happy. Kaleidoscopic colors lining a historic Main Street just bring out the best in people, I guess. Even the New Yorkers.

There’s no shortage of blog posts and magazine articles describing Stowe in the Fall. It’s a small town; the best places to stay, dine, drink, and hike are easily Google-able. But local knowledge always rules—and local knowledge I have. Forty years of it, in fact. Soon enough, my local knowledge will get even more refined, as we pack our bags and drive as far north as we can without a passport.

Whether you’ve already been to Stowe or are planning your first trip, here are my favorite haunts, drives, hikes, views, and ways to get the most out of a Fall Stowe getaway. Prepare to fall in love.

Go Stowe

How many towns have their own logo? Surely there are none as recognizable, timeless, and with as much gravitas as Stowe’s. The ‘Flying S,’ as it’s often called, was initially designed by a German-born artist named Sascha Maurer, who created posters for U.S. ski resorts.

The logo first appeared in the 1950s and has since been used to market and brand Stowe. As a former graphic designer, I admire how the ‘S’ evokes the downhill swish of a ski turn. As a former advertising exec, I appreciate how the tagline, ‘Go Stowe,’ serves as both an invitation and a rallying cry to explore.

So, let’s explore.

Quench Your Thirst

Hot Chocolate Break: ‘Tis the season for dark chocolate pumpkins and Bourbon caramels. Lake Champlain Chocolate is a Main Street boutique that has been an ongoing ode to chocolate since 1983, about the time I started visiting Stowe. Travel + Leisure may have named it ‘America’s Best Hot Chocolate,’ but if I were you, I’d do some personal research. Don’t skip the colorful Stowe mural hidden around the side of the building—a family selfie moment you won’t regret, no matter how much your kids cringe.

A Shot of Espresso at Café On Moscow: This teeny-tiny coffee-and-sandwich shop on the outer edge of Stowe is far enough away from the maddening crowds to feel like you’ve discovered it first. Beyond great coffee, baked goods, and sandwiches, they sell a handful of crafts from local artisans and have a few outdoor tables to soak up the sun. There are lots of great country roads nearby to get lost among the leaves.

Pop-Up Pastries: Whereabouts is a nighttime speakeasy that transforms into a pop-up coffee and bakehouse on Friday mornings. Local entrepreneur, Hannah Mitrani, cleverly roped in nearby Hyde Park’s Two Sons to showcase their buttery baguettes, scones, and muffins. Open from 8am til every crumb is gone—set your alarm.

Orange is the New Black (Cap): Coffee is always in season, but with its badass brews and front porch views, the Black Cap Café was made for Fall. The line might snake out the door, but resist the temptation to cross the street to a soulless franchise. Black Cap coffees, sandwiches, and baked goods are worth the wait. Women-owned and women-powered, with a shot of Chaggaccino or VT maple syrup. You’re on holiday—what’s the rush?

Legendary Brews: The Alchemist got its start in nearby Waterbury, but now offers its cult-following Heady Topper, among other IPAs, from its Stowe location. What’s all the fuss? Well, Heady Topper’s distribution is small and has consistently ranked among the world’s best beers—two valid reasons to seek it out. True beer-bros will want to book a brewery tour. Check the website for details.

It’s All About the Leaves

Fall Into Step: The Quiet and Rec Paths are two trail systems that capture what makes Stowe so special. I’d be lying if I said this scenic duo isn’t partially responsible for my move to Stowe. There isn’t a season they disappoint me, not a weather condition I’m not awed by. The mornings when a low sheath of fog slowly lifts above the mountains are one of my favorite sights. And when shards of sunlight break through the cover, it’s proof of a Higher Power if there ever was one.

The Stowe Recreation Path stretches 5.3 miles—a gentle ribbon of pavement perfect for biking, walking, or simply sitting on a bench to watch the leaves drift down. There are several access points, but one of the prettiest is just behind the Stowe Community Church, where the canopy blazes with color. Be sure to turn around as you wander—you’ll find one of the most iconic photo angles of the church steeple as you look back towards town.

The Quiet Path is just that: quiet. Reserved for walkers, both two-legged and four, it’s a peaceful counterpoint to the lively Rec Path. Park at the Mayo Farm Road lot (near the intersection of Weeks Hill Road), and meander along the edges of open cornfields. Slip down to the rocky stream bank, and you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of verdant Mount Mansfield.

Get Lost: Percy Farm’s famous corn maze will delight visitors of all ages—unless corn mazes scare the bejeesus out of you, like they do me. If that’s the case, sit at a picnic table and let your crew test their sense of direction and battle claustrophobia.

Located just off the Mountain Road, visitors can pull into the Thompson Park lot and follow the Recreation Path north on foot. Cross a small bridge, and the maze will be on your left. Don’t forget your camera; the Fall foliage here is unbeatable.

Worcester Views Rule: Speaking of Percy and his farm, I consider the best spot to admire the Worcester mountain range to be at the intersection of Weeks Hill and Percy Hill Roads, where Percy’s barn once stood. From here, you can see the expanse of the range, which in the Fall is lit up to perfection. Not long ago, Percy’s historic barn burned down, but the iconic dairy cows remain. I hear the bears are envious that the cows have the best views around. Those bovines always do look pretty smug.

Parker’s Barn is Falling Down: Parker’s Barn’s days are numbered. Literally numbered. Built in 1875 and located on West Hill Road near Mayo Farm, this weathered Stowe icon has seen better days. While the town decides its fate, make a detour. In the fall, Weeks Hill is alive with color, and Parker’s pigeon-filled barn stands as a striking foreground to Green Mountain views.

The Money Shot: Looking for the best steeple view? My go-to spot is from the parking lot at Tangerine & Olive, a mountain road boutique just a bit beyond Stowe’s famous covered bridge. While there, be sure to show this sweet shop some love. Tangerine & Olive has unique adventure-driven items you won’t find anywhere else in town. If you decide to drive, use the dedicated parking area just before the store; otherwise, I might get blacklisted from Stowe before I even get there.

Golden Hour SkyRide: You won’t burn any calories to get these views, but your heart will race anyway. The Stowe Gondola SkyRide in autumn is distractingly beautiful, with views of rolling hills blanketed in burnt reds, rich golds, and fiery oranges. On clear days, you can see for miles—past the patchwork of the Green Mountains, over the valley floor, and toward the distant Adirondacks. Go at golden hour or in the morning for peak pics.

Through The Notch: Smuggler’s Notch is the stuff of legends—one of Vermont’s most dramatic mountain passes and, at one time, a notorious Prohibition smuggling route. Today, the leaf-obsessed can drive this winding corridor of towering cliffs, enormous, prehistoric boulders, and lush forests. Once winter arrives, the Notch closes to vehicular traffic, so grab your hiking boots or snowshoes to tackle it on foot. The scenery will be worth it, and your heart will thank you.

Where to Burn Calories

Top of the Mountain: This scenic drive along the Auto Toll Road has 4.5 miles of switchbacks and hairy curves that take you to the summit ridge of Mt. Mansfield. The colors along the ride are astounding, and since you aren’t going much faster than 20 mph, you’ll have lots of time to admire them. ‘That doesn’t sound very active,’ you’re thinking. Just hang on.

Arriving at the top is just the beginning of this Stowe Mountain exclusive. From the parking lot, hike the Long Trail to the ‘chin’ of the mountain. The hike undulates, passing through narrow pine-laden spots and open rocky plateaus. You don’t have to hike all the way to the chin for stunning scenery (or to burn calories), but if you do, sit and stay for a while. An open panorama of layered blues and greens, along with views of Lake Champlain in the distance, will have you spinning in circles trying to take it all in.

Hikers’ Warning: Not all trails come with a warning, but the Cliff Trail’s is well-deserved. I didn’t want to hike the Cliff Trail, but I’m married to someone who often ~~nudges~~ ~~pushes~~ throws me beyond my comfort zone—something about him I simultaneously love and hate.

I can testify to the Cliff Trail’s rigor. It follows a very steep, exposed 1.1-mile route that had me climbing iron rungs and gasping across rock gaps. It had me cursing my husband—and wondering how my cardio had plummeted so drastically, given that I practically live in an Equinox. But when I finished, I felt superhuman, and devoured an entire pizza on the way home.

There are several ways to access this short yet steep hike. One is from the parking lot at the top of the Toll Road (bring a map; I wouldn’t be able to find the trailhead without one), and the other is from a trail near the top of the gondola. Whichever you choose, bring water, wear hiking shoes, and don’t forget sunscreen.

The Pinnacle: Stowe Pinnacle is one of Vermont’s most rewarding short hikes—especially in the Fall, when the landscape explodes with color. This round-trip hike is 3.7 miles with a steady uphill ascent, including some rocky scrambles. The reward for your effort? The most fabulous views of Mount Mansfield from an open bouldered ledge. Just be sure to follow the same color trail markers back down the mountain. I’m not going to get into specifics, but let’s just say a disagreement about the color blue almost cost me my marriage.

All About Ranch Camp: Ranch Camp is the cycling hub of Stowe. It also serves some of the best lunches in town. I never miss a chance to order The Rock, a grain bowl piled high with everything I love: fresh avocado, black beans, arugula, corn salsa, and brown basmati rice. The menu is custom-made to celebrate the completion of any Stowe activity, even if that activity is driving up the Toll Road.

Ranch Camp rents bikes and E-bikes, so no need to tow your own if you want to take on Stowe’s mountain trails. Cady Hill Forest is one of Stowe’s most popular biking trails, and it’s conveniently accessed behind Ranch Camp. Often referred to as the ‘maple jungle,’ this trail system is peaceful, lush, and intimate.

Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

The Butler’s Breakfast: I don’t usually eat breakfast, but the first thing I’m going to do when I move to Stowe is beeline to The Butler’s Pantry for buttermilk pancakes drenched in Vermont maple syrup. There’s always a wait, so it must be worth it.

To help ease the pain of waiting, however, their website has a ‘Join the Waitlist’ link, which I interpret as an excuse to walk along Main Street and build up an appetite. Beyond pancakes, Butler’s Pantry serves other morning delights like Challah French Toast, Three-Egg Omelets, and Biscuits and Gravy.

Ranch Camp Refresh: I already sang the praises of Ranch Camp, but it deserves an encore. I never, ever, don’t eat lunch at Ranch Camp when I’m in Stowe. I’m considering asking whether they have any job openings, so I can offset how much I spend there. Don’t miss Cody’s Crunch Wrap. It’s a twofer—so big you can save half for tomorrow’s breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

The Hills Are Alive: Yes, those hills are in Stowe, too. Everyone knows about Trapp’s Family Lodge. So instead, try the gloriously understated and intimate Edson Hill for dinner. The dining room is beautiful, everything a Vermont lodge should be. Despite its long history in Stowe, Edson Hill has kept up with the times without losing its warm elegance.

In the Fall, Edson Hill’s 38 acres exude Vermont country charm. New England flavors with a twist are on order; try the Maine Lobster Hand Roll with Yuzu, Shiso, and Spicy Furikake, Trumpet Mushroom Tempura, or the Roasted Hudson Valley Chicken with Sunchokes and Roasted Brussel Sprouts. Save room for Sticky Toffee Pudding. Edson Hill also has gorgeous cottages and rooms—if I didn’t live in Stowe, this is where I’d stay.

Getting Granular

I only know a handful of practical, hyper-local tips about Stowe. But watch this space. I’m going to be a ruthless tip collector once I get there. Do you already live in my future hometown? What can I add? Drop me a note!

Parking Matters: If you don’t find a spot on Main Street, don’t lose hope. Try the public parking behind the Community Church, or the lot behind Shaw’s and the Green Mountain Inn. There’s another lot located near the Post Office on Depot Street. May the parking gods be with you!

Avoid Road Rage: Fall is one of Stowe’s most popular times of year for tourism, so traffic is a given. If you want to avoid losing your mind, consider the time of day you drive into Stowe and around town. The stop sign at Mountain Road and Main Street is particularly infuriating in the afternoons. Get out early, wear your comfiest sneakers, and walk. Smile.

Self-Catering, Stowe-Style: Shaw’s Supermarket is not the only place to stock up on groceries for your Airbnb or rental (thank God). We love Commodities for produce and specialty items. Yes, it’s pricier. But the produce is fresh, and the parking lot is easy.

Basement Wines: Not basement prices, but the wines found at Fine Wine Cellars will suit all of your vino-related needs. This family-run business on the Mountain Road started as a hobby and, over the years, expanded beyond wine by adding a cute gift shop. The earthy cellar is the real deal, complete with low ceilings, the scent of bold tannins, and the faint aroma of fermented yeast—awakening senses that true oenophiles will appreciate and will make the rest of us sneeze.

Tracking Color: If you have flexibility in your vacation plans, consider using a Fall Foliage tracker before you commit to a travel date. There’s definitely some risk using this tactic, as many Stowe hotels book up quite far in advance. Grab a Farmer’s Almanac and start researching, or take your best guess. Either way, it’s nice to have some idea of the color by tracking previous year’s color paths.

Good Things Come With Age

In 30 days, I’m moving to Stowe. I’m trading my Manolos for Muck Boots and my insecurities for a sense of adventure.

Wine isn’t the only thing that gets better with age. As I’ve matured, I’ve come to appreciate things my younger self wouldn’t have given a flying fig about: a crimson-tinged maple leaf, a misty morning fog, and a pine-filled trail that opens onto a vast panorama. I’ve realized that beauty is something I can observe, not something I have to possess.

I’ve spent decades enjoying big-city life and all that comes with it: jam-packed restaurants, buzzy bars, and sleek, modern gyms. Now, small-town life sounds divine. I’m ready for cozy dining rooms, local watering holes, and more trails than I’ll ever have time to hike. I understand the appeal of getting into flannel PJs at 5pm. Wait, doesn’t everyone?

What I love about my future hometown goes far beyond that, though. Beyond colorful leaves, pumpkin patches, and dog walks on quiet paths. I recognize that I crave different things than I used to. Although I don’t know exactly what my life will look like in Stowe, I know I’ll figure it out when I get there.

Think about taking a drive north. Fall in Vermont is undeniably beautiful, and Stowe oozes New England charm. To my DC peeps: I’m not expecting visitors every weekend, but I sure wouldn’t mind it. Mark your calendars. I’ll save a seat for you at Ranch Camp.

Maybe you’ll fall for Stowe, too.

Get My E-Guide: The Ultimate Non-Skier’s Guide to Stowe

5 Stowe FAQs:

How do I get to Stowe?
Stowe is about a 45-minute drive from Burlington International Airport (BTV). Fly into Burlington, rent a car, and you’ll be winding through mountain roads in no time.

What’s the population of Stowe?
Just under 6,000 people call Stowe home. Small town. Big personality.

How big is Stowe?
Stowe covers about 72 square miles—about the size of San Francisco, just with more maple trees and fewer tech bros.

Do I need a car?
Yes. While the main village is walkable, most of Stowe’s best spots—trails, farms, covered bridges—are a short drive away. Having a car is key.

Is Stowe dog-friendly?
Very. You’ll find trails, patios, and even inns that welcome your four-legged BFFs.

October 24, 2025
Don’t Drive Maui’s Road to Hana Without This One Simple Thing

I wrestle with my iPhone, trying to connect it to CarPlay as we race out of the Enterprise parking garage. Speed bumps ignored, the Jeep lurches and bounces like a bronco at a Texas rodeo. Was a 4×4 really necessary? The answer will be clear soon enough, but suffice it to say—hell, yeah!

Finally, I pair successfully and set up the Shaka Guide—an app designed to expertly navigate the Road to Hana—a drive on eastern Maui known for its crazy switchbacks, towering waterfalls, and dramatic landscapes.

‘It’s about the journey, not the destination,’ I tell my husband and daughter for the umpteenth time. They scowl. This is new territory for Daniel, who thinks the destination is the destination. I close my eyes and practice square breathing.

Shep Who?

When we exited Kahului Airport after twelve hours on two planes, an overnight in Waikiki, and an ungodly early morning hop to Maui, we were understandably tired (aka grumpy, under-caffeinated, and hangry). But we were on Maui. Who can complain?

I thought of my dad. As he’s mentioned more than once, one of his fraternity brothers lives on Maui. “Would you be able to meet up with Shep? You know, my fraternity brother, Shep? You’d love Shep. He’s a great guy.”

My dad has a weekly Zoom with his college buddies. And although I don’t think anyone aside from my dad gets a chance to speak, Shep is a name I hear often. My dad has great friends, all of whom are impressive and unique. My dad is a great friend. He’s also impressive and unique. Unfortunately, we don’t have time to see Shep on this trip, I tell my dad. We are driving the Road to Hana. Plus, I’m sure Shep has things to do.

So when we stumble wearily from the plane, our carry-ons and neck pillows trailing behind us, I jump when Ella shouts, “Oh my god, Mom, look!” I follow her gaze. The wall ahead has a banner that reads ‘Maui Nui Hall of Fame’ above a grid of portraits. Sandwiched between Woody Harrelson and Paul Simon is Shep. Shep Gordon. Hollywood talent manager, film agent, and producer.

Oh, and loyal fraternity brother to one Barry Lyman.

But First, (Kona) Coffee

Our hotel in Hana can take up to eight hours to reach, depending on how many fun stops one makes along the way. That’s the point of the Shaka App, I tell Daniel, ‘fun stops.’ Places to watch waterfalls, swim, hike, walk a black sand beach, climb through lava caves, and explore. It’s the journey, the journey, the journey…

This is how I knew we wouldn’t be able to meet Shep. I’d be happy if Daniel stopped for breakfast.

A perky male voice pipes up in surround sound, “Aloha! Welcome to the Shaka Guide’s Road to Hana driving tour!” Whoa, it’s too early in the morning for that kind of tone. I lower the volume. “It’s going to be a great day on our drive and tour together!” the voice continues. Ella and Daniel look nervous. I’m as thrilled as Victoria Ratliff clutching her first G+T of the day. This is going to be fantastic.

“Our trusty, albeit overeager, guide needs a name,” I say. “We’ll be listening to him for hours. Any ideas?”

“Shep!” Ella and Daniel shout in unison.

So begins our adventure along the Road to Hana.

Maui’s Most Famous Road

In the 1500s, Maui’s King Piʻilani initiated the construction of what was essentially a long, dirt footpath across Eastern Maui. The path was about 5 feet wide and stretched over 138 miles, enabling travel and trade across the island. By the 1870s, the road was improved, yet still unpaved.

It would remain that way until 1926, the official opening of ‘The Road to Hana,’ when groundwork and bridge construction were implemented for a more passable route. (I guess crossing rivers and streams by rope swing got old quickly.) Fast forward to the 1960s—a fully paved, albeit harrowing, road was complete.

By the numbers, the Road to Hana is impressive. This 64.4-mile scenic tropical drive that connects Kahului to Hana town has 620 curves (some with switchbacks that double back on themselves), 59 bridges (46 of which are single lane), over 18 waterfalls, countless beaches (some with black sand), bamboo forests, marbled eucalyptus trees, and ocean views.

Divorce Highway

Hana Highway’s switchbacks, sweetly rebranded as curves, had been on my mind since I booked the trip. Daniel and I have braved many death-defying, hair-raising, and winding roads: Corsica, Mexico, and Mallorca are a few standouts. We survived them, but not without a few heated discussions. I think he drives too fast; he thinks I worry too much about his driving too fast. We’re both right. But being right hardly matters when I’m convinced we’re about to launch off a cliff every 45 seconds.

Having Shep alert us of upcoming sharp turns and single-lane bridges eases my mind. He even describes how to share the road with the locals, who careen around curves like Formula One hopefuls.

I’ll let Shep tell Daniel to slow down, tell us where the nearest bathrooms are, and where we should stop for a snack. And he does. Hence, the Road to Hana, sometimes dubbed ‘Divorce Highway,’ is a pretty pleasant ride. Shep, if I didn’t thank you earlier, hear me now. You saved my marriage.

Navigating the Road to Hana With The Shaka Guide

Over the next three days, the Shaka Guide becomes our lifeline—highlighting 33 tour stops and 125 Tour Audio Points over 10-12 hours. I know what you’re thinking. Did Shep talk for 10-12 hours? In the downtime between talking points, the Shaka Guide played traditional Hawaiian music. The ukulele and drums set the tone—soft, rhythmic, and pure aloha vibes.

Since the Shaka app is connected to Google Maps, Shep always knew exactly where we were. Even if we didn’t. Even when it bordered on creepy. “Ignore the row of illegally parked cars ahead on the right,” Shep instructed. Then, reading my mind. “Don’t worry; better examples of marbled eucalyptus are ahead.” Sure enough, a few cars were stopped on the right, just like Shep said.

I have to give the Shaka Guide props; this kind of attention to detail is hard to pull off in real-time. To say we got more out of the drive than if we’d been reading a traditional guidebook is an understatement.

We would have missed critical turn-offs on a road where backtracking isn’t an option. We’d have missed magical views while arguing who has the right of way on 46 single-lane bridges. And we would have missed some stops altogether, clueless about what lay beyond the next bend.

It’s not called Divorce Highway for nothing.

The Road to Hana: Starting Out

The Road to Hana officially starts at mile marker 0. Shep tells us not to worry if the marker is missing, as travelers sometimes take it as a souvenir. We stop in Paʻia Town to grab a coffee and provision up. This is the first and only town we will see before we reach Hana Town in 6-7-8 hours. And although there are promises of huli-huli chicken and banana bread stands along the route, there’s no way I’m letting hanger ruin our journey.

Thanks to advanced planning, we had reserved The Hana-Maui Resort for three nights. Hana-Maui is the only traditional resort in Hana Town. With only 66 rooms and suites, it’s 620 hell-ish curves back to Paʻia Town if you don’t book one.

Check Hana-Maui Resort Availability here

Approaching Mile Marker 0

Our first stop is Hoʻokipa Beach, just off the highway past Paʻia Town. Roosters roam the gravelly parking lot, pecking with intention, while the Pacific Ocean surges below. Although called the ‘windsurfing capital of the world,’ we only see surfers sitting in the lineup and a few napping monk seals.

We return to the Jeep and drive towards the turn-off to the legendary surf break, Jaws. During the winter, we learn the waves here can reach as high as 70ft. Shep tells us to “Be aware; it’s a long and bumpy dirt road that leads to the beach.” We’re warned that the single-lane dirt track to see the break is sometimes impassable, with deep ruts and deep puddles. 4WD is a must. We skip it and vow to see it on our way back to the airport (cue foreshadowing).

Shep says we are approaching mile marker 0. If Daniel’s concerned that we’ve already stopped twice and haven’t officially started the road to Hana, it doesn’t show.

The Road to Hana: Bamboo Forests, Lava Caves, and Waterfalls

Our three days of driving are as exciting, adventurous, and scenic as I’d hoped. We see majestic waterfalls, including Twin Falls (mile marker 2) and 400-foot Waimoku Falls (mile marker 42). We trek the Pipiwai Trail, past ancient banyan trees and through tall bamboo groves, whose clacking sounds like a line of tumbling dominoes.

The sandwiches stave off hunger, as planned, but a stop at Aunty Sandy’s (mile marker 16) for a warm loaf of banana bread is the crowning culinary moment of the morning. The raging Pacific crashes against lava rocks. Palms cling to the beach and lean permanently sideways from the wind. Everything along the road feels green, mystical, and alive.

Shep tells us that if we haven’t bought tickets in advance for Waʻanapanapa State Park (mile marker 32), one of Maui’s most famous black sand beaches, we’re out of luck, as same-day passes can’t be purchased. “Ummmm, no, I hadn’t secured advance tickets,” I tell Daniel and Ella. They don’t seem to mind. Daniel probably views this as a win—an extra hour at our resort in Hana Town.

Ever the optimist, Shep reminds us there’s much more to see and do ahead. After a short ukulele melody, he has us pull off the road.

“Maybe Shep’s wrong?” Ella says as we look around. “Where’s the cave?”

But just then, we spot an opening, about three feet tall, on the edge of the highway. We peer in; it’s pitch black. ‘Trust Shep,’ I think as I scramble in. We crawl through the short, drippy, black lava cave and pop out into the forest (mile marker 23). Exhilarating and surprising, this is what the Road to Hana is about.

Hana Town: Hidden Beaches, Food Trucks, and the Hana-Maui Resort

We arrive at the Hana-Maui Resort around 4pm. It’s been a day. Miles of hairpin turns, stone bridges, gushing waterfalls, hiking, and eating. Our weathered green cottage is an oasis.—modest and clean, with 360-degree uninterrupted ocean views and an oversized veranda. We embrace stillness for the first time in days.

The only traditional restaurant in the area is at Hana-Maui, where we have two of our three dinners. But lunch steals the show in Hana Town, where groupings of food trucks keep locals and tourists well-fed. Choices abound, including homemade tacos filled with chicken, shrimp, or beef, poke bowls, huli-huli chicken, Thai food, acai bowls, and smoothies. Lunch is so good; I crave lunch for dinner. But unfortunately, the food trucks close at 630pm.

After visiting the coffee truck one morning, I sit on our deck with my book. On my left, just outside the property’s perimeter, I notice people heading down the steep hill towards the bay. ‘Where are they going?’ I wonder. Curiosity gets the best of me. Ella and Daniel are poolside, honing their Hawaiian tropic tans. I text them my general whereabouts and set off.

A ten-minute cliff-hugging hike takes me to a crescent cove with enormous red lava cinder cliffs and a red sand beach. A wall of black lava rocks absorbs the Pacific break, revealing a tranquil pool. There’s no feeling quite like discovering a hidden beach. Although not exactly hidden. As the Shaka Guide later revealed, this is Red Sand Beach (mile marker 35).

I bask in the sun and enjoy the solitude on our last full day in Hana.

Check out the Hana-Maui Resort Reviews Here

On the Road to Hana, Trust Your Guide

Our flight to Kona is at 12:30pm and the last thing I want is to get stuck on the Hana Highway. I package our early morning wake-up with the promise of one last stop at our favorite coffee truck and the chance to see anything we missed on the way up. Daniel has his heart set on Jaws.

The all-knowing Maui gods say the drive from Hana Town to Paʻia Town is roughly 2 ½ hours without stops. Daniel clocks in at 1 hour 48 minutes. He’d make a great local. So when we get to the turn-off for this mythical surf break, I’m unconcerned; we have time to spare.

Our Jeep creeps down the single-track dirt path, which gets steeper, narrower, muddier, and more deeply rutted the further we go. We cross puddles of indeterminate depth. Mud attacks the windows and obscures our view. The silence in the car is deafening. Even Shep is speechless. What have we gotten ourselves into? There’s no going back—turning around is physically impossible.

Finally, we reach Jaws, locally known as Peʻahi—one of the world’s most famous big wave surf spots. It earned its nickname from the sudden, monstrous swells that can appear seemingly out of nowhere.

Legendary Surf Break, Jaws

We hop out of the Jeep and anxiously gaze out over the cliff. Jaws’ waves are tragically underwhelming. But none of us would have appreciated them, even if they had towered at 70ft with Kai Lenny deep in the barrel. We were too worried about the mile-long trek back to the highway. I ask Daniel what he thinks, assuming he will assuage my fears like always. “50/50,” he says with little confidence.

I start square breathing. Ella checks her phone for a signal, and Daniel puts the Jeep into gear. Off we go.

Some journeys lead to great destinations, others to great stories. On the Road to Hana, we got both.

Did You Notice?

You don’t have to be a cartographer to recognize my list of sights is geographically out of order, but they are the moments that made our journey. Use the Shaka Guide to map out your adventure. Click here to get yours!

Get Your Own Shaka Guide! Click Here.

April 5, 2025
3 Sensational Summer Days in Stowe: A Vermont Secret No Longer
Think Stowe is only for leaf peepers and ski bums? Let me introduce you to summer—my favorite season in Stowe. Sure, it’s not even spring yet, but it’s never too early to plan for summer. Read on for inspiration—what to do, where to hike, eat, drink, and stay. Discover some off-the-beaten-path places only locals know about, like eerie covered bridges and how to sniff out the best coffee in town. Ready to take on Vermont’s not-so-best-kept secret?

I round the bend, obeying the speed limit like the rule follower I am. Mac’s Market appears on my left, marking the spot where, for a mile or so, Route 100 becomes Main Street. I stop at the intersection of Main and Mountain. A full stop. A deep breath. A smile.

Stowe’s Main Street is an apple pie-shaped slice of Americana. It transports me from my fast-paced city existence to a slow-paced country one. No matter the season, it feels like coming home. But in the summer, it feels like something else.

It feels green.

A Stowe for (almost) All Seasons

In the Fall, Stowe is an intense kaleidoscope of color. Reds, oranges, and yellows transform the landscape little by little each day. By winter, those harvest colors are replaced by blankets of white—a muted landscape marked by the woooosssh of a skier or the crunch of snow underfoot. Spring brings the mud, keeping tourists at bay. The village quietly regroups.

But in the summer, Stowe is a love letter to green—hunter, honeydew, laurel, lichen, moss, grass, forest, sage, and mint. In the summer, Stowe owns green. These greens have a distinct look, feel, and smell—layered mountains, freshly mown meadows, and forests thick with birch, elm, poplar, and hickory.

In Stowe, green is a vibe.

40 Summers of Stowe

Summer in Stowe isn’t the secret it was when I was a kid. Even today, it’s overshadowed by its bossy older siblings, Winter and Fall. I’ve been visiting Stowe for more than 40 years. Over the decades, the village has grown and changed, adding stores selling non-GMO granola, organic wines, and overpriced avocados. But at its core, it remains the same—a place to get reacquainted with Mother Nature, to embrace the simple life—and to recharge.

In Stowe, nature and adventure unfold in many ways. No two days are the same. Tackle winding, wildflower-filled trails and bike through overgrown forests. Lose yourself in the town’s galleries or seek out Scottish Highland cows to photograph. For those who believe the best adventures are savored, Stowe’s food scene will satisfy your cravings.

Are the Green Mountains of Stowe on your summer radar? Or, do you wonder if they hold enough to captivate you and your family? Read on for inspiration on how to spend three sensational days in Vermont’s prettiest village.

My Stowe Summer E-Guide: with all the links you need to plan your trip!

Day 1: What to do in Stowe

9am-ish: My brain doesn’t boot up until my first sip of coffee. For a small town, Stowe has multiple places I like to caffeinate (none of which ends in ‘bucks). Black Cap Coffee is powered by women pouring badass brews. Don’t be intimidated by the lines. These women move fast. And their coffee will kick start your first day in Stowe like a green flag at NASCAR.

I recently added a teaspoon of Chagaccino to my coffee order. Chaga is a medicinal mushroom rich in antioxidants and claims, among other health benefits, to lower blood pressure and stimulate immune systems. I’m all in for Black Cap’s Chagaccino cappuccino. But boosting immune systems comes at a price. Be warned!

10am: Sufficiently revved, I stroll Stowe’s picturesque Main Street. I stop at long-time faves like Shaw’s General Store and Bear Pond Books. Many of these independent businesses have been here since I was a kid.

I cross the street and dip into Farm Home Co, a home decor shop that, with its highly-curated wares, could just as happily live on Main Street, Sag Harbor. A few doors down is The Country Store, a home goods shop where I inevitably buy kitchen gadgets I don’t need. A Hasselback potato slicer catches my eye. I head to the register. Yes, we make Hasselback potatoes at least twice a year. Money well spent, indeed.

And this one time, at Ranch Camp

I take a hard turn at Mountain Road and walk through Stowe’s 150ft pedestrian-covered bridge. Dewey’s Bridge has been a village icon since 1973. I grab my phone. From here, the views of Stowe’s Community Church, the town’s crowned jewel, are postcard-worthy.

12pm: After a few (hundred) snaps, I beeline to Ranch Camp, a five-minute walk up the road. Part bike shop, part sandwich shop, part tap room, Ranch Camp has an entire menu worth devouring. For RC virgins, I strongly recommend The Rock. I’m a Ranch Camp expert, and I still can never not order The Rock.

The Rock is a protein bowl of perfect proportions—arugula and brown basmati rice with black beans and corn salsa, topped with an avocado sliced with surgeon-like precision (no doubt with a gadget they bought at The Country Store).

My Stowe E-Guide is filled with even more things to do. Click Here!

The Stowe Summer Trifecta: Nap, Dinner, Stroll

2pm: At this point in the day, I need one of three things: coffee, chocolate, or a nap. If chocolate is your pick-me-up, Lake Champlain Chocolates is nearby. Travel + Leisure named their hot chocolate ‘America’s Best.’ And no, hot chocolate isn’t just for winter.

5pm: If the sun is shining, grab an Adirondack chair and a microbrew and watch the world go by from the front lawn of Stowe Public House. This al fresco pitstop sometimes blends into dinner, so I book an early table at Plate just a few doors down. This California-inspired restaurant is always packed. But even if I forget to make a res, I grab a stool and enjoy my Hearts of Palm Vegan ‘Crab Cakes’ at the bar.

8pm: At summer’s peak, the sun remains high in the sky well past my bedtime. But I can’t pass up an after-dinner stroll along Stowe’s Rec Path. I catch it just behind the church for a last few breaths of green mountain air before I fall into a deep summer slumber.

Day 2: What to do in Stowe

9am-ish: Hidden in the far back corner of Baggy Knees Shopping Center, Woodland Bakery is the coffee and pastry shop no local wants you to know about. When I become a local, I will curse you for going there, but for now, be my guest!

The air inside Woodland is pure butter. I salivate like my black lab at dinnertime. The coffee quietly screams artisanal, and though Woodland isn’t only for coffee snobs, they’ll feel right at home. At Woodland, brews, brioche, and butter rule.

10am: It’s time to hike the Green Mountains Stowe is so well known for. Try Sterling Pond, which is accessed from the top of Smugglers’ Notch via a trailhead on Route 108—a moderate hike to an alpine pond. Or follow the same pass once used by outlaws and smugglers—Smugglers’ Notch Trail is near the Barnes Camp Visitor Center. This steep uphill hike winds through dramatic cliffs, enormous boulders, and forests.

If you have kids in tow, take them to Percy Farm’s yearly corn maze and enjoy the views while they get lost in the tall cornfields for a while.

For those who love waterfalls (who doesn’t love waterfalls?), Glen Moss Falls, located right off Route 100, is a picturesque stop. It’s more walk than hike, so don’t expect to burn off that brioche here. Bingham Falls, accessed from a marked trailhead along Route 108, rewards hikers with a dramatic cascade and inviting, albeit cold, layers of swimming holes.

An afternoon of brews, boutiques, and burgers

12:30pm: One of Stowe’s prettiest places to have lunch is the Ideltyme Brewery and Restaurant’s backyard garden. With its central, convivial, al fresco bar and simple bites like warm pretzel bread with pub mustard and fried pickles, it’s easy to whittle away a few hours in the sun with a flight of beer.

1:30pm: If you’re in Stowe on a summer Sunday, and I highly recommend that you are, walk from Idletyme to the farmer’s market. Weave in and around the tented vendors: popsicles, potstickers, and artisan popcorn. Herbs, herbal roots, and herbal-infused teas—it’s everything a village farmer’s market should be.

3:30pm: The Mountain Road is lined with standalone shops and boutiques. Archery Close is one of the best, with brands that elevate Vermont flannel like Amundsen, Marine Layer, and Faherty, as well as curated accessories and shoes.

There are two Coco Goose boutiques. I’m not sure why, but they’re both worth visiting. With brands I covet, like Nili Lotan, Ulla Johnson, Veronica Beard, and Herno, those Coco Geese certainly know their audience.

7pm: Warm summer nights in Stowe are made for Doc Ponds. Casual and lively, kick back with a cold craft beer, some cheddar fritters, and a burger with hand-cut fries. The vibe is effortlessly cool—with vinyl records spinning, picnic tables on the patio, and a steady hum of conversation. Whether you roll in from a day of hard-core hiking or hard-core shopping, Doc Ponds is a great place to end the day.

More hikes, more restaurants, more shopping. Click Here for my Stowe E-Guide!

Day 3: What to do in Stowe

9am: I’m not a yogi, yet I love the morning Yin Yoga class at The Swimming Hole. In Yin Yoga, you hold stretching poses until you almost fall asleep. I love to sleep. Yin Yoga is the yoga for me. The Swimming Hole also has a gym and a pool, where day passes are sold. This is an especially good option should your summer day start with some rain. Those Green Mountains don’t get green by themselves, remember!

10am: Walk or bike the 5.3-mile scenic trail that loops around town. The Rec Path path follows the West Branch of the Little River, crossing 11 low-arching bridges and ducking behind the Stowe Community Church. Each turn has a beautiful view of the landscape. Wildflowers line the trail and mountain views around every bend. Wear a bathing suit and take a picnic lunch with you. You’ll find plenty of spots to hang out beside the river.

1pm: Take a scenic drive to some of Stowe’s iconic and historic covered bridges and barns—snapshots of Vermont’s past. Gold Brook Bridge, aka Emily’s Bridge, comes with a ghost story. After being abandoned by her lover, legend has it that Emily met a tragic fate here. Red Covered Bridge, just outside town, is classic Vermont—bold, bright, and reflected in the slow-moving brook below.

Take a selfie with Parker’s Barn on Weeks Hill Road. Although the town gives funds to keep it standing, this iconic and dilapidated red barn’s days are numbered. The dozens of pigeons who live there should start looking for new lodgings.

Time to Splurge

2pm: A vacation isn’t a vacation without some decadent splurges. The Spa at Topnotch Resort is just what I need to soothe my weary body and soul after a few adrenaline-filled days. Topnotch’s Spa has been a favorite of mine for decades and offers classic treatments, from 25-minute spot massages to 80-minute deep tissue massages. But it has also changed with the times and has R&R CBD and Thai massages.

Don’t forget to book in advance—I’m not the only one who thinks the Spa at Topnotch is the best.

7pm: Edson Hill is just far enough from the bustle of town for those looking for a quiet place for drinks and dinner. The Tavern has brown leather couches and low post-and-beam ceilings that define coziness. The restaurant has modernized classic New England fare with a seasonally changing menu. Views are photo-worthy in every direction—a culinary standout in Stowe.

This Stowe day trip comes with a scoop of Cherry Garcia. Click here to learn more.

A Stowe Hotel for Everyone

Finding the right place to stay in Stowe in summer depends on your vibe—are you here to unwind at the spa, explore every mountain trail, or just soak in the small-town ambiance with a cocktail?

For the Romantics:

Edson Hill is as elegant as it gets in Stowe. Set on 38 rolling acres, this beautiful and romantic spot has eight Manor House rooms and 15 guest houses, each oozing sophistication and antique charm. Four poster beds with crisp white linens, fireplaces, velvet couches, and standalone soaking tubs may mean you never leave the room. But, those who do will be rewarded, as the property has wildflower-filled walking trails, horse stables, and a bucolic pond.

For the Spa-Goers:

Topnotch Resort & Spa is for those who want luxury without the pretense. Tucked into the mountains, Topnotch has topnotch views, an award-winning spa, and an outdoor pool that begs for lazy afternoons. Whether you’re booking a tennis lesson, indulging in a deep tissue massage, or sipping wine by the fire pit—lean into relaxation at Topnotch.

For the Best Village Location:

The Green Mountain Inn is a quintessentially Stowe inn located on Main Street in the heart of Stowe village. It’s quaint, cozy, and packed with old-world charm—only steps away from shops, restaurants, and the Rec Path. With its creaky floors, afternoon tea, and kind hospitality, you’ll feel like a regular, even on your first visit.

The Green Mountains are Calling

‘Stowe’s such a small town—do you ever get bored?’ I sometimes get asked. No, never. Not in 40 years. But feel free to ask me again in ten.

It’s hard to get bored in a place where the morning fog continuously reshapes the scenery, where the Green Mountains often take on layers of blue, and where I’ll never exhaust the hiking trails and summit views. Where I feel green.

I might get bored of my go-to grain bowl at Ranch Camp. But I doubt it.

My $10 Stowe E-Guide has even more fabulous places to stay. Click Here!

My Interactive Stowe Map

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android
Ready to travel—but can’t find the time to plan?

Anyone can Google a destination, but finding the right sources, the hidden gems, the places worth your time—well, that’s an art that takes time. I’ll cut through the noise, saving you from hours of searching in the wrong places. Each of my recommendations is researched with your specific trip in mind.

After visiting 70 countries on 7 continents, I know how overwhelming travel planning can be.

But I also know how to make it easy. And exciting. And stress-free.

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My research. Your adventure.
February 26, 2025
100 (Amazing) Places To Go

When my kids were little, the 100th day of school was a very big deal. In the days leading up to the 100th day, the excitement was exponential. There were 100th-day projects, 100th-day activities, and 100th-day surprises—all culminating in a 100th-day celebration with a guest appearance by Zero the Hero (a masked superhero played by their teacher’s fiancé).

I never questioned why the 100th day of school was such a big deal. I was knee-deep in 100 Honey Nut Cheerios, 100 LifeSavers, and 100 cotton balls—all glued to neon construction paper courtesy of Elmer. Elementary school was a blur of sticky little fingers wreaking havoc on our black labs and white sofas.

The 100th day of school. For teachers—a way to nurture a love of math. For parents—a categorical mess.

This is my 100th post. I’m as excited by this number as any 1st-grader about to meet their first superhero. To mark the occasion, I won’t abuse processed oats or hard candy. I won’t use glue. Instead, I’ll list 100 places I want to go.

As a point of clarification, these are not 100 places to visit before you die, not the top 100 places to visit in 2025, and definitely not 100 places to see after you die (wow, sometimes Google suggestions are entirely off the mark).

Just 100 (amazing) places.

Lists of lists

My travel wish list has lived in my phone’s Notes App for years, quietly snowballing with conversations overheard in coffee shops, inspiring Instagram posts, friend recommendations, and sidebars in Travel + Leisure magazines. I’ve grouped them into a few broad categories to add structure. But that’s about it. A random, cobbled assortment of (amazing) places to go. 100 places to inspire your next trip. 100 places to add to your travel wish list.

Do you have a travel wish list?

It’s time to create one.

Mustique

Counting to 100

Listing these 100 places was an interesting exercise—sort of like time travel. I thought back to how, years ago, my list was filled with fancy beach hotels in Mexico—places with kids’ clubs so I could have lunch with my husband without cutting quesadillas into poquito pieces. Back then, Caribbean resorts mesmerized me with miles of pristine coastline where my kids would argue over one square foot of sand.

Later, my list included glamorous city hotels so Daniel and I could dine at Michelin-starred restaurants and sit for hours at sidewalk cafés. The kids were the ideal ages to stay with grandparents. Grandparents who thought sno-cones for lunch was perfectly acceptable.

Montenegro (even from behind, Ella looks completely unimpressed)

As the kids got older, we found places with activities we could do as a family—adventurous spots that didn’t solely revolve around the beach or pool. Our kids will deny it, but they hated hiking from the ages of 8-18. Daniel and I selfishly marched them up mountains, forcing them to admire views in places like Montenegro, Mallorca, and Montana. The only times our kids got along was when they were lagging fifty feet behind, complaining about these (their words) god-awful, miserable hikes. They cried child abuse. We hiked faster.

Now, they act like they invented hiking. Jimmy Chin is Ella’s idol. Chase races us to the summit. Parenting is a thankless job.

100 (Amazing) Places To Go

It’s worth mentioning this list is aspirational. If you hope to find budget-friendly and easy-to-get-to destinations, you’re reading the wrong blog. But—if you’re hoping to get inspired and find a few splurge-worthy vacation spots, read on—100 very expensive ideas await!

And lastly, those marked ( * ) are currently at the tippy top of my list.

Pikaia Lodge, Ecuador

Resorts

*Pikaia Lodge, Ecuador

Six Senses Duoro Valley, Portugal

Our Habitas Atacama, Chile

*Isla Secas, Panama

Amangalla, Sri Lanka

Passalacqua, Lake Como, Italy

*Rosewood Kona Village, Hawaii

Susafa, Italy

Six Senses Zighy Bay, Oman

Kachi Lodge, Bolivia

*Chablé Yucatan, Mexico

NIHI Sumba, Indonesia

Hotel Esencia, Mexico

Paradero Todos Santos, Mexico

Sublime Comporta, Portugal

Eteréo, Mexico

Rosewood Vienna, Austria

Forestis Dolomites

Adventure Hotels and Lodges

*Forestis Dolomites, Italy

Tordrillo Mountain Lodge, Alaska

The Three Chimneys, Isle of Skye

*Eriro, Austria

Highland Base, Iceland

Nekupe, Nicaragua

Puquio, Peru

Wilderness Mombo Camp, Botswana

Rosewood Cape Kidnappers, New Zealand

Kisawa Sanctuary, Mozambique

Ilmanaq Lodge, Iceland

Maroma, A Belmond Hotel, Riviera Maya, Mexico

*Shinta Mani Mustang, Nepal

Cheetah Plains Private Game Reserve, South Africa

*Awasi Patagonia, Chile

Taylor River Lodge, Colorado, USA

Shangri La Muscat Canyon Wadi Rum, Jordan

Tierra Patagonia, Chile

Jack’s Camp, Botswana

Hotel Foroyar, Faroe Islands

Fogo Island Inn, Newfoundland

The Omnia, Zermatt, Switzerland

One&Only Gorilla’s Nest, Rwanda

Al Maha, Dubai

Al Moudira, Egypt

Boutique Hotels

*Al Moudira, Egypt

Farmhouse Inn, CA

The Ned Hotel, London

Borgo Santo Pietro, Tuscany, Italy

Son Blanc Farmhouse, Menorca, Spain

Ellerman House, CapeTown

Venice Venice Hotel, Italy

Single Thread Farm, CA

*Ett Hem, Sweden

Aman Rosa Alpina, Dolomites, Italy

Piaule Catskill, NY

The Ned NoMad, NY

The Tokyo EDITION, Tokyo

Hasbrouck House, NY

La Samanna, A Belmond Hotel, St. Martin

Dawn Ranch, CA

Silversands Beach House, Grenada

Casa Polanco, Mexico City

Bishop’s Lodge, Auberge Resorts Collection, Santa Fe, NM

Hotel Sanders, Copenhagen

Post Ranch Inn, CA

The Rooster Antiparos, Greece

*Eleven Rio Palena Lodge, Chile

TRUNK, Tokyo

Palazzo Margherita, Italy

Lime Wood, UK

Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino, Italy

White Barn Inn, Auberge Resorts Collection, Kennebunk, Maine

Petit St Vincent, Caribbean

Private Islands

*Petit St Vincent, Caribbean

Miavana, Madagascar

Bawah Reserve, Indonesia

*Naoshima, Japan

Kokomo Private Island Resort, Fiji

Kudadoo Maldives Private Island

Alaska

Destinations

*Alaska

Sardinia, Italy

*Svalbard, Norway

Namibia

Galapagos Islands

Gstaad, Switzerland

Nepal

Jordan

Malta

*Faroe Islands

Aselund, Norway

Kerala, India

South Georgia Island

Saxony, Germany

*Oaxaca, Mexico

Orient Express

Alternative Travel

*The Venice-Simplon Orient Express, A Belmond Train

Nour El Nil, The Nile River Boat, Egypt

Koks, Faroe Islands

Restaurants

*Koks, Faroe Islands

Den, Tokyo

Quince, San Francisco

Cosme, New York City

Alinea, Chicago

*Single Thread, CA

Florilége, Tokyo

Funke, Los Angeles

*The top of my wish list (subject to change)

100, and counting

I started this blog, (I mean, website), in 2018 with a handful of subscribers and even fewer Instagram followers. Today, I’ve reached my 100th post, have several thousand subscribers, and over 10K Instagram followers. No one is more surprised by these stats than me—and probably my daughter.

I love this ~~blog~~ ~~website~~ blog. It’s given me a creative outlet beyond helping my kids find 100-round things to glue to construction paper. It’s taken my travels to new levels, as I’m constantly thinking about how to best describe what I’m seeing and experiencing, which, in turn, helps me see and experience things differently. 100 posts (often with suspect grammar and incorrect punctuation) about travel.

What’s the point?

I think about this list. What’s the point? I won’t get through 10% of it in my lifetime. But that’s precisely the point. The list will change as I change. Some places will fall off my radar as others replace them. Some will make no sense—did I really want to go to Easter Island??? Others will attempt to recapture those years when my kids waddled along the beach in saggy, swimmy diapers.

I’ll never finish my list. I’ll never win. The hard-core list makers of the world might have trouble with this concept. I know I do. Or, I did. Until I realized that’s the best part: adding, subtracting, and multiplying (the math metaphors are neverending!) destinations. It’s ok to lose.

My kids are adults now. They stopped believing in Zero the Hero around the same time they found out about the tooth fairy. But I thank the teachers, especially Mrs. Haese and her long-suffering husband Derek (aka Zero the Hero), for doing their job. My kids can count. And because they can count, they have lists of their own. Lists that will expand and change as their lives expand and change.

Those elementary school years are a sticky, messy blur. My clearest memories are from our family vacations. So, I’ll keep adding.

Will my list look completely different in ten years? Or even five?

I’m counting on it.

January 4, 2025
The Best of Ibiza, Unabashedly

“Aren’t you a little old for Ibiza?” became an ongoing refrain whenever I mentioned my upcoming trip. What is it about this island off the coast of Spain that prohibits anyone over a certain age from indulging?

I was never much for clubbing. In my 20s, I started a career in advertising and drank beer in basement bars. In my 30s, I started a family and spent weekends changing diapers and craving sleep. When in my 40s, I moved to Tokyo and dragged stubborn toddlers around Southeast Asia.

Now in my 50s, I’m heading off to the world’s biggest party island. Whoever says 50 is too old to go to Ibiza isn’t 50—and hasn’t been to Ibiza. At 50, we have the ultimate travel trifecta—the money we didn’t have in our 20s, the time we didn’t have in our 30s, and the subtle art of not giving a f*ck, perfected.

The Ibiza Crew

In June, sixteen of us head toward Ibiza like bees to honey. We fly in from all directions, Los Angeles, New York, Sweden, Miami, and DC. We’re a mixed bag: English, American, Greek, Swedish, Japanese, Swedish/Japanese, and Brazilian. Some of us are models. Some of us are Brazilian models.

Among us are a semi-professional DJ, two fashion influencers, and one mooching medium. Our group spans decades, from 30 to 60. An eclectic bunch, we’re in Ibiza for one reason—to celebrate our Queen Bee’s 50th birthday. We touch down to blindingly bright blue skies and set off for the villa—Casa Atlantis.

Atlantis Reimagined, in Ibiza

Naming a villa Casa Atlantis is a bold move. ‘Atlantis’ is synonymous with utopia, and utopia is pretty hard to live up to. Legend has it that the lost island of Atlantis was inhabited by spiritual people who, over time, became greedy, petty, and morally bankrupt. Their immoral behavior angered the gods.

Maybe the villa-namers were onto something. What better place to reject conformity and anger gods than at a spiritual vortex like Ibiza? It seems no coincidence that non-conformist, bad-boy, rockstar Noel Gallagher of Oasis once owned Casa Atlantis. His energy is still bouncing around the wonderwalls of the villa.

Casa Atlantis is perched above the Mediterranean Sea in an area of Ibiza called Es Cubells. The sprawling, multi-layered villa is carefully camouflaged in the cliffs. The only way to view Casa Atlantis in its entirety is from a boat, and even then, it isn’t easy to see.

Want all the decadent details of Casa Atlantis? Just click here.

Oasis

Casa Atlantis sleeps up to 20 guests. It has expansive sea views and endless amenities: a private chef and wait staff, an indoor/outdoor massage hut, a full gym, an enormous pool, and a hot tub. The villa has multiple areas to sit, lounge, and dine. Far below the villa, there’s a private jetty and beach.

Our chef cooks meals based on our culinary desires. Traditional Spanish, fancy dim sum, and street vendor Indian are all options. Thankfully, someone else has resolved these complex culinary issues. All I have to do is show up to dinner on time, which in Ibiza is rarely before 10pm.

Getting around the steep, winding roads of the island is a breeze as the villa comes with two Mercedes vans, a Jaguar convertible, two Spyder three-wheelers, and a Vanquish boat. Oh, and for grins and giggles, a Mini Cooper.

Electric blue Morning Glories climb the villa’s white-washed walls. Sea views stretch as far as the eye can see. It’s easy to question why we need to leave the villa at all. But we’re here to experience the whole island, not just this glorious little patch. Some days, we manage to pry ourselves away, albeit not until after breakfast, which ends about 1pm.

Beachin’ at Casa Jondal

Casa Jondal is on Ibiza’s southern coast, a 15-minute drive from Casa Atlantis. Although this glamorous beach restaurant came on the scene in 2020, it looks and feels like it’s been here much longer. Signature pines and junipers add a touch of dusty green to the nautical palette. Casa Jondal is a scene. We grab our sun beds and settle in for the afternoon.

Rickety wooden tables are nestled in the fine white sand. Low-slung seats with comfy white cushions are strategically placed under stretched canvas sailcloths. The low-key vibe is ever-present. It’s just a part of what makes Casa Jondal the hottest beach restaurant in Ibiza.

Chef Rafa Zafra (of El Bullí fame) carefully tends the menu. We dine on lobster three ways, savor slivers of shrimp carpaccio, and mouthwatering croquettes—all from the luxury of our beachfront sunbeds. It’s easy to pass sun-drenched hours over crisp Verdejo and Albariño, taking refreshing dips in the sea between bottles.

Get My Free Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet. Click Here!

The Path to Es Vedrà

Es Vedrà is an uninhabited, jagged, and rocky island set off the southwest coast of Ibiza. At 413 meters tall with dozens of seabirds swooping and darting, the island looks like the set of a fantasy film. Some believe Es Vedrà is home to sirens and sea nymphs. Some believe Es Vedrà has magical powers. One morning, we wake up at ~~the crack of dawn~~ noon to harness some magic for ourselves.

We all know hiking is an activity best done in the morning. But this is Ibiza, where time is measured around DJ sets and dinner reservations. The Swiss guide who leads our troop is uber-fit and no-nonsense. If he’s annoyed we’re starting our hike when the UV index is at its peak, it doesn’t show.

I forget our guide’s name, but let’s call him Jan. Jan is a safety-first kind of guy. He warns us about loose rocks and tree roots, reminds us to hydrate, and reapply sunscreen. Does he not realize some of us are old enough to be his parents? I know all about the benefits of sunscreen, Jan. Thank you.

But, the viewpoint is worth Jan’s running safety commentary—uninterrupted and crowd-free views of Es Vedrà.

With military precision, Jan leads us to the ‘Eye of Es Vedrà’—a natural rock formation that frames the island to picture-postcard perfection. He has the birthday girl scramble to the center of the eye and takes Oscar-worthy panoramic videos of her while hanging from the rocks with his one free hand. I post the video on Instagram, and all my followers think it’s me. I don’t correct them.

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Daytrip to Formentera

The next day, a pair of black Vanquish boats pick us up at Casa Atlantis’ private jetty. The aluminum finishes and sleek torpedo shape feel very 007. We’re on our way to the island of Formentera for lunch. We take a loop around Es Vedrà on the way. I search for sirens and sea nymphs.

As we circle the island, the sun’s angle changes, creating dramatic shadows on the cliffs. We hear birds squawking. Despite how stealthy our Vanquish boats are, the birds are rattled by our approach. The captain cuts the engine, and I close my eyes to soak up Es Vedrà’s magic. If I were a bird, this is where I’d live, too.

Formentera is the smallest of Spain’s Balearic Islands. We approach the shore, and I notice unspoiled beaches against Windex-blue water. Our boats bob and weave around a few anchored yachts until we reach the dock. Es Molí de Sal is low-key, open-air, and uber-chill. We disembark and head to our table—ravenous from a morning where our only activity was getting out of bed.

Want to spend the day Sailing Formentera? Click here to learn more!

We promptly open the champagne we’ve brought along to toast the birthday girl and sink into the restaurant’s easy, natural rhythm. While Es Molí de Sal serves various Mediterranean specialties like tapas, oysters, and caviar, we’ve come for the paella.

After appetizers of fresh salad topped with thin ribbons of carrots and burrata with olives and tomato jam, two enormous paella pans arrive. Plump pieces of spiny lobster and fire-engine red giant shrimp are nestled in the rice—the texture is sublime. Various spices complement the seafood without overpowering it. Our group leaves no grain behind.

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What’s so special about Ibiza?

By now, it’s clear why Ibiza has such a strong magnetic pull. But I’m curious to learn more about the island’s history. Back at the villa, I start Googling. In the 1960s, I read hippies and bohemians descended upon Ibiza to take advantage of its spiritual energy. The island quickly became a magnet for hedonists.

By the ‘80s and ‘90s, the die was cast. Ibiza became Europe’s pinnacle party hot spot—the epicenter for raves, drawing celebrities, rockstars, and pleasure seekers from around the world. I stop scrolling and glance at tonight’s itinerary:

11pm: Dinner at La Torreta
After: Pacha, DJ Solomun

Then, I glance at my phone. It’s 3pm. I have eight hours. Yikes.

The King of Ibiza

DJ Solomun is one of the world’s most famous DJs. Seeing him perform at Pacha, where he plays over twenty Sundays each summer, is an Ibiza highlight. A highlight of staying up until the wee hours of the morning listening to deep, funky baselines and euphoric melodies is your thing. The last time I stayed up until the wee hours, I was watching Seinfeld reruns while breastfeeding. At 5pm, I nap to prepare for the night ahead.

Of Bosnian/German descent, Solomun was born in 1975. I quickly calculate that Solomun and I are nearly the same age. With his long, wavy hair, rugged beard, and broad jawline, Solomun is good-looking in a Ned Stark Game of Thrones kind of way. Solomun is often referred to as the King of Ibiza, although rumor has it he isn’t fond of the title. Regardless, his reign is powerful. The lines snaking out of the club doors at 1am (which is when we arrive) prove it.

I discover tonight’s a ‘special’ night at Pacha—Solomun is doing an extended set. “What does that mean?” I ask the experienced clubbers in my group. “It means that Solomun will play until 7am!” one of the Brazilian models exclaims.

I smile, but I want to cry.

Hey, Mr. DJ

Our planner-in-chief has curated our Ibiza trip to perfection. We have the best table in the club—a cordoned-off, spacious platform behind the DJ booth. Thousands of other clubbers are sandwiched together on the floor like sardines. They’re in their 20s, so they don’t care.

The alcohol is free-flowing, and when Solomun starts his set at 3am, the crowd is charged with electricity (and various other things). We are masses of people, all feeling the same vibe, all letting the base sink into our souls. The beat builds, then drops, builds, then drops.

Hours pass. Hours and hours and hours.

At 630am, I walk outside, squinting my eyes at the brightening sky. Lavender and periwinkle hues touch the clouds. All is muted. Or, is that because my inner ears have stopped functioning? It’s the start of another extraordinary day. Yet, it isn’t. Instead, it’s the end of an extraordinary night. I turn around. Hundreds of people are in my wake, exiting the club after an extended set by Ibiza’s legendary resident DJ.

That was crazy, I think to myself. Then, I pop into the white Mercedes van waiting for me at the curb.

In Ibiza, Age is Just a Number

Sadly, the week ends. I’m not sure my liver could survive another day anyway. We sing one last refrain of Happy Birthday to our host, who orchestrated an unforgettable Ibiza experience. If her goal was to show her friends the Ibiza she loved from her youth, but with a grown-up spin, mission accomplished. I think about what I’ll say to those questioning if I was too old to come here.

“In Ibiza, age is just a number.” I’ll say, not so subtly, “No one really gives a f*ck.”

There’s no shortage of fabulous activities and excursions on Ibiza.

Grab your bikini, hiking boots, and sense of adventure, and try these:

Hike with a private guide to Ibiza’s most secret spots

A sunset boat trip with five of your BFFs

Half-day island tour with built-in Insta-photo op stops

Sail to fabulously understated Formentera with beach stops

SUP to Ibiza’s secret caves

Ready to travel—but can’t find the time to plan?

Anyone can Google a destination, but finding the right sources, the hidden gems, the places worth your time—well, that’s an art that takes time. I’ll cut through the noise, saving you from hours of searching in the wrong places. Each of my recommendations is researched with your specific trip in mind.

After visiting 70 countries on 7 continents, I know how overwhelming travel planning can be.

But I also know how to make it easy. And exciting. And stress-free.

Click here to learn more about Jamie Edwards Travel Coaching

My research. Your adventure.

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November 10, 2024
The Spectacular Lofoten Islands: My Questions, My Answers

The Lofoten Islands are home to some of Earth’s most majestic and dramatic scenery. An adventure-lover’s playground, there‘s no one way to explore this dreamy archipelago in the Arctic Circle. Read on to discover how best to plan a trip to Norway’s most unique islands, including transportation methods, accommodation options, activities, and itinerary ideas.

‘Let’s go to the Lofoten Islands next summer,’ I say to my husband over dinner. He lifts his gaze and looks at me like I’ve just asked him to bungee jump into an active volcano.

‘We got back from Ibiza yesterday!’ he says in exasperation. ‘Next summer is a long way off.’

‘Except it isn’t,’ I argue. ‘Especially for remote places like the Lofoten Islands. Just wait. The rest of Europe has wildfires, crowds, and raging heat. Scandinavia will be the next travel hot spot. Not temperature hot—cool hot. Get it? We’ll be able to say we went first!’

Daniel sighs. I win.

The Lofoten Islands: Where to Start

Yikes, I win! Now what?

The DC heat is melting the soles off my shoes. But there’s no better time to plan for (next) summer. I start by tapping into my trusted travel sources. Google helps me map distances between islands, villages, and sights. Norwegian bloggers recommend lodging whose websites I comb through in granular detail. Adventure bloggers highlight must-do activities that I’m not convinced I’m adventurous enough to do. I cross-reference this information with Condé Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, and Outside Magazine to gauge credibility.

Then, I call my travel advisor to put the pieces of this Norwegian travel puzzle together. And although they’re still placing the finishing touches on their clients’ current summer trips, they listen as if they have all the time in the world. If they’re rolling their eyes about my fear of not getting a cabin in Nusfjord twelve months from now, I can’t tell.

I’m up for an Arctic adventure. The first question is, are you?

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Q. Where are the Lofoten Islands, exactly?

The Lofoten Islands are in Northern Norway, just inside the Arctic Circle—an archipelago of seven main islands bisected by glacial fjords. I discover the Lofoten Islands through Instagram. Those algorithms are scarily spot on. I’m immediately drawn to the dramatic mountainscape and steep walls of the deep, rocky fjords.

I’m intrigued by the Midnight Sun—keen to find out how I’ll stay asleep in the absence of darkness. (Spoiler alert: I don’t—pack an eye mask). I imagine feeling the fresh, cool Arctic air while searching for sea eagles and whales. I’m more excited to sleep in an authentic fisherman’s cabin than an oceanfront suite at The Four Seasons.

Lofoten Facts:

• The Lofoten Island mountains are about 100 miles long and over 3 billion years old.
• The total population of the Lofoten Islands is approximately 24,500.
• In Svolvær, the Midnight Sun prevails from May 25 to July 18.
• During the summer, the Lofoten Islands have a mild, if changeable, climate.

Q. How do we get there?

The key to getting to the Lofoten Islands is the willingness to enjoy the journey and the destination. This is unpopular wisdom in my family, who treat an airport terminal like an Olympic sports arena. It isn’t hard to reach the Lofoten Islands—it just takes time and patience.

The best way to reach the Lofoten Islands is via ferry from the mainland port of Bodø. (Bodø is a 1.5-hour flight from Oslo.) Approaching Lofoten by boat can’t be underestimated. The distant islands are layered in rich gemstone hues of green and blue. The jagged, rugged-edged mountains look prehistoric and cut sharply against the cloudless blue sky. Passengers may even spot a pod of pilot whales if they are lucky. Keep your eyes open.

Travel Notes:

• Oslo is the most convenient gateway to the Lofoten Islands.
• Many visitors fly from Oslo to Bodø then take a passenger ferry or prop plane to Svolvær or Leknes.
• The ferry is a scenic and cost-effective way to get to the Lofoten Islands. Be sure to buy ferry tickets in advance using this link.
• Widerøe offers direct flights from Oslo to Lofoten, but they are seasonal. Check availability.
• Consider adding a few days in Oslo on the way to Lofoten and a few days in Bergen on the way home. Two days are ample time to explore these two cities and have the added benefit of breaking up the travel.

Q. Is Manshaussen Island Worth a Detour?

Manshaussen is an island retreat 850 miles north of Oslo and 31 miles south of the Lofoten Islands. It’s a big detour for a small resort, but I’m not visiting the Arctic Circle without at least one night in their award-winning glass sea cabins. Manshaussen was an insta-discovery circa 2018. Now, via a 1.5-hour flight to Bodø, a 2.5-hour passenger ferry to Nordskot, and a 5-minute speed boat, it becomes an insta-reality.

Sound amazing? Oh, it is! Read all about it here.

After three blissful day-filled nights on Manshaussen, we take a ferry across the Vestfjorden to Svolvær, the unofficial capital of the Lofoten Islands.

Q. How many days will we need?

Like many visitors to the Lofoten Islands, we travel mainly between the towns of Svolvær and Å. This scenic north-to-south driving route takes approximately 2 ½ hours. But having 4-6 days to explore this seemingly short route is necessary, as there are endless villages to wander, mountains to hike, pastries to devour, and wide sandy beaches to divert our attention.

The benefit of having a few extra days allows for flexibility. For example, if it rains the day a big hike is planned, you can adjust as needed.

Q. What’s the best way to get around?

A rental car is a must in the Lofoten Islands. We pick up ours in Svolvær, a natural starting point due to its convenient ferry terminal and airport. Svolvær’s roots as a fishing town are evident everywhere, from the traditional rorbus (fisherman cabins) to classic fishing boats and the ubiquitous stockfish drying racks.

As a side note, stockfish (Arctic Cod) is Lofoten’s claim to fame—Norway’s oldest and most important export. They say the smell of the drying cod is the smell of money, but I think that’s just a clever way to reframe an unpleasant odor.

The main road that connects the islands is the E10. It’s a staggeringly scenic and easy-to-navigate route, with low-arching, serpentine bridges, tunnels, and off-shoots to seaside villages and beaches. Camping and camper vans are especially popular ways to explore, but I’d rather eat stockfish for a year than roam Lofoten by van. My holiday, my choice.

Know before you go:

• Rent a car in advance as availability is limited.
• Public transportation is not an ideal way to get around.
• Go old school and take a paper map just in case WI-FI is an issue.
• The journey is the destination! Enjoy the drive. To use a technical term, it’s crazy beautiful.

Q. What’s a rorbuer?

Rorbuer are the seaside stilted, wooden huts where traveling fishermen lived during the harsh cod fishing season. Up to four fishermen lived in each rorbu, which had kitchenettes and, most importantly, direct access to their boats. Today, these iconic cabins, most painted bright red with white trim, have been retrofitted as tourist accommodations. Some, however, are better retrofitted than others.

Q. Where will we stay?

I dive deep into rorbu websites, knowing we will sacrifice some traditional luxury for a more authentic accommodation experience. Belmond, Aman, and Auberge have yet to break ground in the Arctic. Long may that last.

For our five nights in Lofoten, we decide on two lodgings along our route—two nights in Svolvær and three in Nusfjord. These two bases allow us to easily wander the north and south regions and experience multiple rorbus with multiple views.

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Svinøya Rorb uer

In Svolvær, we stay at Svinøya Rorbuer, whose below-average amenities and modest, underwhelming decor are compensated by its fantastic location, lively outdoor pub/restaurant, and harbor views. I can’t stop photographing the rorbuers and could often be found well past my usual bedtime waiting for the dipping sun to fire up its red exterior.

Nusfjord Arctic Resort, N usfjord

In contrast, Nusfjord Arctic Resort tips as far toward luxury as one can hope for in Lofoten. A Small Luxury Hotel of the World, this resort preserves the look and feel of a traditional fishing village.

Nusfjord’s rorbus are mustard yellow; many are several hundred years old. Tourists are welcome to explore the grounds, the general store, the bakery, the smithy, the boatshed, and the cod liver refinery throughout the day. But come 5pm, the property is reserved for guests only.

Nusfjord’s rooms are beautifully restored and appointed. Our rorbu has an ample yet cozy living space and two small bedrooms. The low ceilings were designed to warm the fishermen in the harsh winter. With soft bathrobes, slippers, and a Nespresso machine, Nusfjord’s cabins would be unrecognizable to the fisherman who slept there decades ago.

Other Rorbuers worth considering:

• El iassen Rorbuer, in Hamnøy/Reine
• Reinefjorden Sjøhus, in Hamnøy/Reine
• Sakrisøy Rorbuer, in Reine

Q. What do we do there?

The Lofoten Islands are an adventure-seeker’s playground. And the Midnight Sun means no barriers exist to enjoying all they offer. Hiking, fishing, kayaking, SUP’ing, and fjord-exploring are just a few adrenaline-filled activities we participate in. We plan geographically, using our two bases wisely.

RIB’ing in Trollsfjord

In Svolvær, we take a high-speed RIB boat across Trollfjord—one of Lofoten’s most breathtaking fjords. RIB stands for ‘rigid inflatable boat.’ They’re an ideal way to crisscross the fjords and soak up the landscape’s natural beauty.

Get tickets for the best RIB boat experiences in Lofoten right here

Trollfjord is defined by its narrow entrance, steep-sided mountains, and convocations of sea eagles. The eagles, also known as white-tailed eagles, are majestic. Their piercing eyes have two centers of focus. This binocular vision means they can see forward and sidewards at the same time, which is a pretty amazing, yet nerdy, bird fact.

Hiking in Svolvær and Reine

Daniel organizes two family hikes. He’s militant about getting to the summits in record time, so to an outside observer, our hikes look like four angry solo hikers muttering silently to themselves. But all our rage dissipates at the summit, even our daughter’s— the views are that good.

The hike to Devil’s Gate (Djevelporten) is accessed via Devil’s Staircase (Djeveltrappa), an ungodly number of stone stairs 1.8 miles straight up the mountain. It’s hell. But unveils a heavenly 360-degree panorama of Svolvær.

Further south, Reinbringen may be the most famous hike in Lofoten. This is due to its pinnacle views over the archipelago’s most picturesque villages—Reine, Sakrisøy, and Hamnøy. At 2 km total in and out, don’t be fooled by the seemingly short distance. This treacherous hike is a one-kilometer staircase to the sky.

Other activities worth mentioning:

• Kayaking (R eine Adventure )
• The Blacksmith Museum and live blacksmith demonstration at Sund
• Artscape Nordland: 35 works of art placed in the landscape across Nordland; five are in Lofoten, including ‘Untitled’ by American artist Dan Graham
• The scenic, seaside Nusfjord to Nesland hike—accessed from Nusfjord Arctic Resort

The Get Your Guide Website for Lofoten is a treasure trove of links to fabulous activities. Check it out here.

Q. What do I pack?

Packing for Lofoten requires anticipating nearly every type of weather. The sky could be misty, foggy, and rainy at breakfast, then bright blue and cloudless by lunch. I wear layers most days, peeling them off as the temperatures rise. Thankfully, nothing is fancy in Lofoten. Hiking shoes and rain gear are a must. But, the inherent hygge culture of Norway means a hot sauna is always just a few white-slippered steps away.

Forgoing fancy doesn’t mean I can’t look good, so I rely on neutral colors and wrinkle-free fabrics I can wear multiple times. All are packed in my Eagle Creek carry-on bag, essential for a trip with so many moving parts.

My packing essentials:

• Lightweight puffer jacket
• Raincoat
• 2 x sweater/fleece
• 2 x short-sleeved shirts and tank tops
• 2 x long, lightweight pants
• 2 x summer dresses
• 1 pair each of birks or sandals and hiking shoes
• Bathing suit
• Sunglasses, sunscreen, hat
• Eyemask

Q. What if I Don’t Want to Go Home?

While most articles and blog posts (including this one) agree that 4-6 days is plenty of time to visit the Lofoten Islands, I would have happily spent another night or two. These breathtaking islands are far less accessible than the Caribbean, and my chances of returning are slim.

I don’t want to go home. Yet I do—via flights to Bergen, Reykjavik, and finally, Washington DC, where we touch down to the same thermometer-shattering heat we left ten days ago. I miss the Arctic air. I miss the Eagles.

Over dinner a few nights later, I say, ‘So Daniel, I’ve been thinking about next summer…’

Get Your Guide has access to dozens of Lofoten activities and adventures. Buy in advance before they sell out!

Click here for my FREE Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet

Anyone can Google a destination, but finding the right sources, the hidden gems, the places worth your time—well, that’s an art that takes time. I’ll cut through the noise, saving you from hours of searching in the wrong places. Each of my recommendations is researched with your specific trip in mind.

After visiting 70 countries on 7 continents, I know how overwhelming travel planning can be.

But I also know how to make it easy. And exciting. And stress-free.

Click here to learn more about Jamie Edwards Travel Coaching

My research. Your adventure.

October 10, 2024
Where in the World is Manshausen Island?

A tiny square on Instagram stops me mid-scroll—a photo of a glass cabin perched above a stone jetty cantilevered over the sea. Through plate glass windows, a seated woman with a book on her lap gazes towards the horizon. The caption reads, “Can you see yourself in this chair?”

That was six years ago. If I’d seen it today, I would’ve been convinced the image was computer-generated. But in 2018, Instagram still depicted reality. Well, sort of.

“Yes!” I think to myself as that familiar swell of travel lust washes over me. “Yes, I can see myself there!” I look at the geo-tag, eager to learn the location of this enchanting chair.

Manshausen Island: 67°50.163’N, 14°46.462’E

I click on the map. Then zoom out. And out. And out. Finally, I recognize the shape of the country—Norway. I sigh. Not just Norway but a remote island off of a mainland village called Nordskot. Nordskot, population 56. The Arctic Circle. Manshausen Island is about as accessible as the moon. I swipe out of Instagram and put my phone away. I sigh again, this time in defeat.

Six years later, when planning our summer vacation, I remember that tiny square. Then, I build an itinerary around it.

Instagram vs. Reality

Who doesn’t love Instagram? Instagram is a portal to an alternate reality. Its mesmerizing photos pull us into a world of swoon-worthy vistas, avant-garde fashion, and food as art.

In 2018, the same year I covet that tiny square, Merriam-Webster declared ‘Instagram’ a verb. Hotels start dedicating Instagrammable spots to encourage social media posts, like Moet Chandon vending machines or waterfall swings. On Instagram, all the world’s a show, and everyone wants to be in it—or at least photograph it.

How would real-life Manshausen compare to its Instagram feed? I recognized the geographic hurdles and inherent risks. Getting there will take three planes, a ferry, and a speedboat. The weather could be hot and sunny or cold and rainy. The food could be inedible. The activities underwhelming. What if the island doesn’t even exist? I was acting on a gut feeling—hoping my family would trust it.

“Ummmm, I found this cool place on Instagram,” I tell them. “Ok, boomer,” my son shoots back, even though I’m not. My daughter raises an eyebrow. My husband says, “What could possibly go wrong?” Exactly.

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It’s the Journey and the Destination

So begins our journey to the Arctic Circle. We fly to Oslo, where we spend two nights at the architectural beauty, The Sommerro Hotel. From Norway’s capital city, we fly to the port town of Bodø to await the 7pm ferry. With hours to spare, we find an outdoor restaurant. I order a Pimms Cup in honor of Wimbledon just as Djokovic and Alcaraz amble onto the court. The sun is shining. We settle in for the match.

The ferry is the first of many surprises in Norway—a glorious introduction to the Arctic landscape and the power of the midnight sun. Passengers disembark at ports called Moskenes and Helnessund. Their spouses, dogs, and kids welcome them eagerly at the dock. I wonder what their stories are. What happens here in Helnessund? Do they know their village is all the rage on Instagram?

When we glide into Nordskot at 9pm, the sun is still high in the sky and casts a golden glow over the towering mountainscape. I imagine few places on Earth evoke a sense of utter breathlessness. The Norwegian islands in the Arctic Circle are some of them.

Angus Staples, one of Manshausen’s two hosts, meets us at the dock and lowers our bags into the boat. He looks like a mountain climber—rugged, compact, and deeply tanned. He whisks us to the island, the final leg of the journey that began with a tiny square on Instagram.

Instagram vs. Reality—the Moment of Truth

Any anxieties I have dissipate once Manshausen comes into view. I breathe a sigh of relief—thankful it exists. The glass cabins act like beacons, welcoming us to the island. The sun radiates off their metal exteriors, and the floor-to-ceiling windows mirror the placid, tranquil water. I see a wide dock stacked with yellow and red kayaks. A wooden sauna and a dozen bleating sheep are not far beyond it. We hear the low-piercing calls of seagulls above.

I hop off the boat to find my chair.

The Manshausen Story Started in 1698

Manshausen is a small, flat, rocky island. A mere 14 acres in all, its roots date back to 1698 when it was a part of the Grøtøya trading post. Its sheltered location made it ideal for the area’s thriving fishing industry. Until the 1800s, Manshausen was used as a fish export storage location. But by the 1900s, ships were just too large to reach the island, and the trading post went bankrupt. After that, the island went through several iterations (none Insta-worthy) until a man named Børge came along.

Børge Ousland bought Manshausen in 2010. And, along with award-winning architect Snorre Stinessen, built a destination for intrepid travelers. Børge is a real-life polar explorer, having spent over 30 years traversing the Arctic and Antarctic regions, often in the bleakest and darkest months.

I imagine when he visits Manshausen between treks, it’s a true respite, with its intimate sauna, simple and flavorful food, and majestic sea eagles soaring overhead.

Norwegian-born Ousland was the first to complete an unsupported solo crossing of Antarctica. He was a deep-sea diver in the North Sea, a Navy Special Forces Officer, and was married at the North Pole. Børge Ousland is an all-around badass. I want to meet him. Sadly, he isn’t at Manshausen when we visit. He’s probably taming orcas, wrestling polar bears, or swimming the Drake Passage.

I overcome my disappointment and focus on more important matters—the sea cabins.

Manshausen’s Award-Winning Cabins

The nine sea cabins and two towers at Manshausen have won over 40 design and architectural awards, hence their inherent stopping power on Instagram. To me, the cabins artfully honor the traditional rorbu (fishing cabins) of the early 1900s. Communities of brightly painted rorbus were positioned in protected harbors with the harbor-facing side of the cabin on poles. This design meant fisherman could easily access their boats each morning.

Today, most rorbus have been retrofitted as picturesque accommodations for travelers. Their fiery red exteriors pop against the green and blue landscape—the kind of imagery that, if you catch the light right, can go viral. Although not mine, unfortunately.

Set on stilts above rocks and the ebbing tide, Manshausen’s nine modern cabins are made of wood, glass, and metal. Their angles and stark edges contrast the natural elements yet meld harmoniously within the scenery. The warm wooden interiors are simple and highly functional, with cubbies, hooks, and storage nooks in all the right places—except for the bathroom. Angus, a few more towel hooks would be helpful, please.

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Franz Josef, Grønland, or Patagonia?

Each sea cabin on the island is named for one of Børge’s expeditions. The towers, Nansen and Amundsen, pay homage to his idols in polar exploration. It won’t surprise anyone who knows me that I heavily researched the ‘best cabin on Manshausen’ before booking. Phone calls were made. Aerial maps were navigated. Leaving this very important decision to fate was not an option.

Franz Josef sits just above the water and has uninterrupted mountain views. Its location at the far edge of the island means no one walks past our cabin, which is fairly important since they’re made almost entirely of glass.

The sea cabins advertise to sleep four people. In hindsight, we should have booked two cabins. During our stay, Norway experienced warmer-than-usual temperatures, and the second bedroom became an unwanted in-room sauna. I’m guessing this isn’t typical—unless you believe in global warming—otherwise, Manshausen should consider central air. Next time, we’ll book Patagonia, too.

Beach Mustard, Bread Ice Cream, and Other Culinary Surprises

Our three days on Manshausen are filled with round-the-clock sunshine, blue skies, and temperatures in the mid-70s. The weather is a gift in this part of the world known for highly changeable microclimates. I sit in my chair, but not as much as I thought I would. There’s too much to see and do.

Mornings on Manshausen are leisurely. Angus visits each guest at breakfast in the main house to confirm plans for the day. Ondrej, Manshausen’s chef and island co-host, creates magic in the open kitchen with a friendly and seasoned staff.

Ondrej tells us nearly all the ingredients he uses are foraged and sourced from the island and local area. On our first night, we have halibut topped with a plant I’d never seen. “It’s beach mustard,” Ondrej says, then mentions he’d found it earlier while walking. I later learn beach mustard is an aquatic herb with a salty, juicy flavor. It’s a spicy contrast to his light, flaky fish and poached tomatoes.

Overall, the food quality, presentation, and variety is another surprise. I’d been anticipating small, oily fishy fish like sardines and anchovies. Instead, we dine on freshly caught halibut and cod. Ondrej pairs unusual ingredients with familiar ones. We enjoy root vegetables like beets, cabbage, and parsnips in multiple ways. Truffle seaweed, pine shoots, and pine cones adorn our plates. Ondrej makes ice cream from leftover bread that he roasts and infuses with milk. Bread ice cream. Brilliant.

A Typical Day on Manshausen is Never Typical

One of the perks of never-ending sunlight is that activities are pretty much available 24/7. One night, our kids take the rowboat to Nordskot at 10pm in search of gummy bears. My husband and I watch from the cabin. Though we can’t hear them, it’s pretty clear from how the boat is rocking that they’re arguing. We look the other way.

Layers of mountains provide endless viewing entertainment. Norway’s mountainous mainland changes from green to blue to deep purple, and far beyond it, the Lofoten Island archipelago’s jagged peaks look like they were cut with a razor’s edge.

Manshausen offers adventures for every type of traveler. One morning we kayak, spotting our first sea eagles of the trip. Another day we fish, and my son catches four large halibut Ondrej will likely serve for dinner.

There’s hardcore mountain climbing along the Nordskot Traverse and more moderate hikes like the one we take to Resshola Cave. Otherwise known as ‘Troll’s Cave,’ it’s 140 meters deep and blankets us in complete darkness for the first time since arriving in Norway. Those trolls really know how to hide. I didn’t see a single one.

Each day, I walk the island, searching for treasures and following the sheep. All they do is eat and bleat. Bessie is my favorite, as she’s the hungriest and always lets me feed her.

Another woolly ewe wears a bell around her neck. I ask Ondrej if it’s so the staff knows where the sheep are at all times. “Actually, no.” He says, “It’s for the sheep. They get distressed when they can’t find each other, so the bell keeps them from getting lost.” At 2am, that very bell tells me the flock is grazing outside Franz Josef’s cabin. Such is life on Manshausen Island.

Sauna Culture

Sauna has been an integral part of Scandinavian culture since, well, forever. Many consider the sauna a sacred space, ‘Nature’s Church,’ a place to cleanse the mind, body, and spirit. It’s easy to see the allure. The mystical and traditional characteristics of the island permeate everything.

The wooden sauna sits beside a natural pool of water. Although the air temperature is warm, the water is anything but. Yet, it’s the best way to prepare, so we jump in and brave the chill. I cleanse my mind, body, and spirit multiple times a day. It’s so restorative my husband now wants one at home. Sauna—the ultimate Scandinavian souvenir.

Manshausen is Unreal/Real

After three days on Manshausen, we gather our things and get ready to meet the ferry. From Nordskot, we will head north to tackle the luminous Lofoten Islands, whose peaks we’ve been admiring in the far distance.

When the ferry floats in, it unloads a few new travelers destined for Manshausen. I wonder how they found it. Did they see it on Instagram? Which cabin did they get? I want to tell them to feed Bessie because she’s always hungry. And I want to prepare them for the ethereal colors of the sky at one o’clock in the morning. I want to hear what they think about bread ice cream.

I want to stay.

Manshausen blurs the lines between illusion and reality. Its location at the edge of the world furthers its dreamlike qualities. Once it’s entirely out of view, I turn around and face north. The Lofoten Islands are waiting. ‘But where will we go next?’ I can’t help but wonder.

I open Instagram and start scrolling.

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Author’s Note: For those who wonder how we packed for this trip, it was carry-on only all the way to the Arctic. My go-to brand is Eagle Creek. Their Gear Warrior Backpack was ideal for my 18-year-old son, pictured below.

August 4, 2024
Stowe in Summer: 10 of the Best Ways to get Local

A few summers ago, my husband and I decided to head north. To live village life, country life, and a less rushed life in the mountains of Stowe. My parents’ house was empty, and it seemed an ideal way to escape the oppressive DC heat—a way to break the monotony that had gradually manifested over the past few months.

We packed up only the most essential items: our kids, our dogs, a few hundred Nespresso capsules, and cornhole. As it turned out, our essentials don’t fit in one car, so we took two and began our 10-hour caravan to New England. We’ve been living in Stowe for over a month now, and while our kids ~~may~~ do feel slightly differently, it was the decision of the year for me and Daniel. I’ve learned a lot about living a simple life. For one, I’ve discovered that while big luxuries are great, little luxuries are even greater.

I’ve compiled a list of the things that Stowe and village life have given me—a mix of the tangible and intangible. A list of things I hadn’t thought much about but now seem overwhelmingly luxurious. My list is by no means complete and is seen through my tiny, rose-colored lens. I am excited for this list to grow as we spend more time in New England. But for now, and in no particular order, are the 10 things I have learned to appreciate, love, and (dare I say?) consider true luxuries about Stowe living.

Click here for my free Stowe Summer Hot Sheet

THE BEST OF STOWE #1: THE RECREATION PATH

Looping gently around the town of Stowe and covering 5.3 scenic miles is the much-loved Rec Path. The path is beautifully maintained and easily accessible. One natural starting point is directly behind the Stowe Community Church, the soaring centerpiece of the village. However, there are countless places to enter and exit the serpentine route.

Sixteen meticulously kept wooden bridges appear intermittently, crying out for photo ops as they arch over clear, stone-filled streams. The low rumble of bikes that pass over the wooden slats would alert me to their oncoming presence. Tots on tricycles would whiz past me, their parents racing to catch up. Bikers, walkers, and runners share the meandering path, which bends and curves around and behind the town’s main streets.

Lovely, hidden picnic spots dot the water’s edge, and I often hear kids splashing and squealing by the banks. A picturesque way to burn calories, the Rec Path has just the right balance of shade and sun, streams and fields, and cows and gardens to keep me entertained for a few hours.

Often, we bike to the back garden of Idletyme Brewing Co., a local restaurant, and enjoy a well-earned drink to cool off. It has an idyllic location on Mountain Road and the Rec Path. Fried pickles tempt me, which is no surprise if you read ahead to little luxury #3. Oversized, soft pretzels come hanging on a stand with various dipping sauces. Daniel always orders a flight of local IPAs from the tap.

THE BEST OF STOWE #2: THE QUIET PATH

If the Rec Path doesn’t conjure up a Norman Rockwell portrait, the Quiet Path certainly does. Built as a low-impact extension of the Rec Path, the mown grass pathways keep the Quiet Path true to its name.

The 1.8-mile panoramic route hugs the perimeter of tall, rapidly-growing cornfields and a burbling stream filled with beaver dams that my dogs always seem to destroy inadvertently. Alpine views are within sight, as is the steeple of the community church in the distance at specific points along the way.

Foot traffic only, whether four-legged or two, is allowed, and I found it amusing to read that dogs need to be under voice or leash control. Voice control is certainly not guaranteed with my two willful dogs, but luckily, I have yet to be reprimanded.

THE BEST OF STOWE #3: THE FARMERS’ MARKET

Sunday mornings quickly became something to look forward to when every day was beginning to feel like a Sunday. What was once a small smattering of vendors has since blossomed into a destination unto itself—the Stowe Farmers’ Market. A gathering of local vegetable producers, cheese vendors, ice cream makers, handmade crafts, and a variety of ethnic food stalls, the market offers different tastes and treats for the widely differing taste buds in my family.

My favorite food stall is Green Mountain Potstickers. Homemade dough that is just the right consistency, and balanced with the optimal amount of fillings—like edamame, scallions, chives, and tofu, for starters. Their scallion pancakes easily compete with those I’d had long ago in Beijing, as do the cold sesame noodle salads topped with julienne-sliced veggies.

The list of vendors and artisans at the Stowe Farmer’s Market has grown since the summer of COVID. Some of my favorites include Two Sons Bakehouse, Sage Farm Goat Dairy, and Stephanie Grace Ceramics. I don’t know how someone could pass by her stall without wanting to buy one of her magnificent porcelain creations. I certainly couldn’t.

The market is open from 10am-2pm from May through October. Go for lunch and be sure to grab a picnic table in the shade.

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THE BEST OF STOWE #4: SAGE FARM

I discovered that one of the Farmers’ Market vendors is just up the road from our house. Sage Farm Goat Dairy is a picture-perfect, Insta-ready, and family-run goat farm located on Upper West Hill Road. The weathered gray barn/farm store sits neatly next to a field of wildflowers and a tattered wooden fence. A small sign invites customers to walk in. The store is unattended and provides an honesty box alongside the refrigerated case of small-batch artisanal goat cheeses and fresh eggs.

Chickens peck noisily at the ground; some days, we spotted the goats roaming the fields. They have a bucolic spot, those lucky alpine goats. By the smug look on their long faces, I’m guessing that they know it.

THE BEST OF STOWE #5: FROM MARIA’S GARDEN

A pretty, gray, clapboard house sits at the top of Cape Cod Road; the charming roadside flower stand called From Maria’s Garden. Mason jar-filled wildflowers are presented daily, as are hand-cut bouquets and potted plants. A price list and honesty jar sit nearby, and she recently let me know that she has had the honor system in place since 1987—honesty—a popular Stowe theme.

As her website notes, Maria escaped the corporate life in NYC to live a simpler one in Vermont. She is a certified floral designer. Aside from her daily roadside flowers, she designs for weddings and events.

Every time I drive past, I am tempted to buy, and during our first few weeks in Stowe, I did just that. The homespun feeling that radiates from the colorful property is magnetic, and I have often seen Maria’s husband, shears in hand, cutting for the day’s arrangements.

Lately, noticing the variety of wildflowers that are blooming in our own backyard, I’ve started to create my own masterpieces. Although I think I need a little help. I wonder if Maria is available for lessons?

THE BEST OF STOWE #6: STOWE VILLAGE

The village of Stowe has a storybook setting, just the right amount of charm, quaint shops, ice cream parlors, and lively (modern definition: ‘socially distant’ lively) restaurants to wander and explore. Stowe village is slow-paced, an inherent part of its charm.

My son and I bike to breakfast some mornings, passing acres of cornfields and barns, and sit outside at his favorite, Café on Main. We eavesdrop on the locals gossiping over their coffees and Stowe Reporters. Little shops hide behind big shops. Stowe has many lovely historic homes to gawk over; photographing them became another daily pastime.

The Historic Old Depot houses one of my favorite Stowe treasures, Bear Pond Books. Perhaps because it was ‘born’ the same year I was, 1970. Or that it’s a 2nd generation, family-owned, independent bookstore that’s still going strong despite the rise of Amazon. In 35 years, I’ve never visited Stowe without getting lost in the aisles of Bear Pond.

Jennifer Hale, the owner, and her staff handpick the books. Her sweet pup, Tucker, curls up on a bed behind the register. I wonder if he, too, has a say in the book choices, as there are a lot of canine-related tomes. It feels highly curated, warm, and inviting, even on the coldest winter days. I rarely leave empty-handed.

A notable Stowe fact is that neon signs are strictly forbidden. Yet another way that Stowe can maintain its charm. Until I found myself in a non-neon environment, I realized how much of my life is neon-filled. Its absence has been refreshing.

THE BEST OF STOWE #7: STOWE TRAILS

The countless hiking and mountain biking trails could take up a post of their own. Suffice it to say that hiking has become one of my go-to activities over the years, and Stowe has more mountains, gorges, notches, summits, and waterfalls than I have time to tackle.

One morning, Daniel and I hiked to Sterling Pond. A steep, natural rock staircase welcomed us to the 2-mile climb and got my legs fired up faster than I was prepared for. Dense foliage, streams, and wet rocks gave way to tall pines, signaling that the summit was close. Moss-covered stones, fallen tree trunks, wild mushrooms, and a plush carpet of ferns covered the mountain floor. The reward for our efforts was a glorious, serene pond, which, to me, should be called a lake. Whatever it is called, it was a beautiful sight after an arduous climb.

Our next morning of hiking started with a steep, 4.5-mile switchback drive to the top of the Toll Road, followed by an hour-long open vista hike (The Long Trail) to the ‘chin’ of Mt Mansfield. There, we were rewarded with blue skies and 360-degree views of the area. We looked down over the grass-covered winter ski runs and gazed out towards the distant layers of overlapping mountains. My favorite kind of hike—one that both starts and ends at the top. Views rule.

While hiking back towards the car, we passed a man with a butterfly net, who we learned was actually searching for dragonflies. Although not just any dragonfly—he was on a mission to spot a particularly elusive species. Since then, I’ve taken note of the dragonflies I see every day at the pond after not having given them any thought before.

Click Here for My Free Stowe Summer Hot Sheet

THE BEST OF STOWE #8: WILDLIFE, VERMONT-STYLE

Who needs Africa to experience wildlife? In Stowe, I’ve seen beavers, frogs, hummingbirds, dragonflies, chipmunks, cows, gophers, snakes, horses, and even a pair of berry-eating bears. While not the traditional ‘big five,’ wildlife is fascinating regardless of size.

One early morning in July, my walk revealed a world of beaver dams, vivid clusters of fiery tiger lilies, dilapidated barns, and grazing cows. Even if I chose the same route to walk each day, I would inevitably spot something I hadn’t seen the day before, which was due, in part, to the ever-changing light, weather conditions, and bovine behavior.

I stopped mid-run one day to take a photo of a cornfield and found myself at a stand-off with a suspicious gopher. While stretching, later on, I caught a Monarch butterfly feasting on a flower. I never stop in my DC life. In Stowe, I stop and, in doing so, am rewarded with the littlest, most beautiful sights.

THE BEST OF STOWE #9: AL FRESCO DINING

Being such a popular, all-season travel destination, it isn’t surprising that Stowe has restaurants and cafés to suit just about everyone. Having had years of local eating under my belt (literally and figuratively), I came to town armed with a few faves.

The Bistro at Ten Acres has been perched at the junction of Luce Hill Road and Barrows Road for as long as I can remember and has always been my parents’ favorite. We sat outside for dinner, watching a particularly remarkable sunset one night, and wondered what it would be like to cash it all in and make the simple life of Stowe a permanent one.

Even outdoors, the Bistro at Ten Acres feels intimate. A musician played guitar, just far enough from the patio so that we could still have a conversation. The dry summer air made the night memorable, as did my lovely spring pesto over homemade linguini.

At 91 Main Street, California-inspired Plate became a new favorite. The owners, originally from LA, have been in Stowe for years. Their menu is described as being able to satisfy meat lovers and hard-core vegans. I’m not vegan, but I gravitated toward the vegan dishes when we visited. I thought the vegan crab cake starter was a menu highlight, as was the Tofu Ramen and Plate’s interpretation of a veggie burger. The wine list was incredibly well-thought-out, and I’d be lying if I said that didn’t somehow factor into our return throughout the month.

THE BEST OF STOWE #10: MOUNTAIN SCENERY

Bucolic pastoral scenes that appear to be lifted from the canvas of a Wyeth abound. Wispy streaks of yellow grasses and lavender wildflowers lay against green pastures and distant blue skies. This led to an epiphanic moment.

After having spent days wondering why the sunsets seem to be more colorful in Vermont or the clouds more defined, I finally realized that it had nothing to do with the sun or the clouds at all. It’s the scenery against which the sunsets set and the cloud formations sit above that make it more spectacular. The sky can be gorgeous anywhere, like over the NJ Turnpike, for instance, but it wouldn’t look quite as pretty. (No offense, NJ). It’s the surrounding scene that makes it extraordinary.

The late afternoon thunderstorms that pass through mountainous Stowe instantly turn on all of the primary colors of the landscape. At times, we’ve been able to see both the incoming storm and the blue sky at exactly the same time. The dark clouds would inevitably swallow up the sky, and then bright blue would once again emerge.

After one particularly fast and furious morning storm, I witnessed a full rainbow that was so bright that it glowed.

SUMMER ISN’T OVER, YET

Tomorrow, I head back to DC. Our house in Vermont has felt like another world, and the change of scenery has been healthy on many levels. I’ve realized that I can define luxury in more ways than I had thought. Luxury is personal. It’s spotting a photo-worthy pond, buying pickles at a farmers’ market, or goat cheese from a barn with an honesty box.

How do you define luxury? It’s worth finding out.

Click here for my free Stowe summer hot sheet

Interactive Map of My Favorite Stowe Places

Trip map created using Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

June 15, 2024
Eagles Soar At Wildflower Farms. So Will You.

Wildflower Farms, an Auberge property in New York’s Hudson Valley, is the antidote to city life. Discover why it’s on everyone’s hot list.

Ryan puts our bags in the back of the motorized cart. Our bungalow is a short walk away, but it’s drizzling, so we welcome the ride. After a few social niceties, ‘Where are you from?’ ‘Is this a girls’ trip?’ ‘Are you sisters?’ Ryan slams the brakes. “I just saw a bald eagle—want to see his nest?” My jaw drops. Does my 16-year-old niece want to meet Taylor Swift? “Yes!” we say in unison. Ryan kicks the cart into gear.

So begins our wildlife-filled weekend at Wildflower Farms. My friend and I have come to this Hudson Valley resort to relax before the upcoming chaos of our sons’ high school graduations. I’m happy, but it’s a bittersweet happiness. That we see a bald eagle guarding her nest within minutes of our arrival seems timely. Symbolic, even.

I’m on the cusp of a major life change—the dreaded empty nest. As melodramatic as it sounds, this eagle sighting becomes a soppy, emotional metaphor for my stay. I have three days in the Hudson Valley to contemplate it.

The Hudson Valley—a Natural Getaway

The Hudson Valley is New York’s fastest-growing hot spot. Boutique hotels pop up like spring daffodils, luring New Yorkers from the concrete jungle. Only 90 minutes from the city, it’s a natural getaway. With deep roots in farming and agriculture, the Hudson Valley has some of the oldest wine-producing areas in the country. It has a thriving food and farmer’s market scene and challenging mountains to hike. The scenery is so bucolic it inspired the Hudson River School, a group of painters whose muse was the verdant landscape.

The Hudson Valley is a destination for art and nature lovers, history buffs, and gourmands. Wildflower Farms couldn’t be better placed to satisfy them all. But be warned. Guests will be hard-pressed to leave the property. The only way to do it all is to build in more time.

The Birth of an Art Movement

One reason guests flock to Wildflower Farms is its delicate balance between indoor and outdoor living. Another is the chance to walk in the footsteps of 19th-century artists like Thomas Cole and Frederic Edwin Church. Among other Hudson River School artists, their romantic vision of the landscape was born and cultivated in this very place. Focusing on three themes of Americana: discovery, exploration, and settlement, the movement’s goal was to portray a place where humans and nature could peacefully coexist.

Although Wildflower Farms caters to the well-heeled city crowd, the parking lot license plates prove people come from farther afield. Black, navy and gray apparel appear to be the uniform of choice, offset by squeaky clean, neon-colored Hokas. Despite the moody apparel and dark skies, Wildflower Farms is inherently bright. The staff seems to be living under an ever-moving sunbeam. Chipper, but not annoyingly so. Welcoming, but not overly eager.

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The Aerie

Ryan is spot-on. We find the eagle sitting in a tall Eastern White Pine beside her nest. Thankfully, Ryan had the wherewithal to stop at our cottage so we could grab our binoculars. They aren’t necessary. The aerie is so big LeBron James could use it for his pre-game nap. Fun fact: aerie is a fancy word for eagle’s nest. I have Will Shortz to thank for this tidbit of bird trivia. It’s one of his favorite New York Times crossword clues.

I see the eagle’s beady, honey-colored eyes through the lens, but I don’t need them to feel her intense stare. Is she counting down the weeks until her eaglets fly away? Is she sad? What will she do with all her downtime once they leave? I told you this would get soppy. Don’t judge until your kids fly the coop.

Welcome to Grand Central Station

An oversized open-air central firepit area called The Great Porch is the entry point of Wildflower Farms. It’s also the resort’s social and culinary hub. We go there for morning cappuccinos, rosé-infused lunches, and pre-dinner cocktails—all complemented by majestic Shawagunk mountain views. Banquettes circle the ever-blazing firepit. Should it be chilly, like during our stay, woolly blankets are within reach.

One morning, a black Suburban ambles up to reception. The trunk pops open, and two big doodles tumble out. Within minutes, water bowls, treats, and two cushy dog beds are placed fireside. The doodles look unfazed—as if this kind of treatment happens wherever they go. I notice their matching Valentino Rockstud collars. Maybe it does.

You Belong Among the Wildflowers

Sixty-five freestanding cabins and cottages are scattered throughout Wildflower Farms’ 140 acres in Gardiner, New York. Deceptively simple from the outside, each cabin is a highly curated gem. I can’t stop humming Tom Petty’s classic tune. I belong here.

The cabins are a destination unto themselves—beautifully appointed and chock full of welcoming treats, like shears for cutting flowers and a miniature glass vase to display them. The Bower Cabins are situated under a canopy of trees and have outdoor spaces to admire the scenery, birdwatch, and listen to the sounds of nature.

Meadow Cottages have vaulted wooden ceilings, wood-burning fireplaces, and private back gardens with daybeds facing the meadow. One morning, instead of racing to breakfast, I open the sliding glass doors to take in the breeze and the view. At Wildflower Farms, I’m constantly reminded to slow down.

Cabin interiors mirror the landscape in ways that would make the Hudson River School painters proud. A moss-green velvet couch sits on top of a stormy-blue patterned rug. A patchwork quilt that looks anything but old-fashioned is draped across a contemporary wood-framed bed. It’s Modern Americana. The rooms are light-filled and airy, with local artisan touches, hand-chosen books, and an inviting window seat to read them.

What to do at Wildflower Farms

Wildflower Farms Resort is like a sleepaway camp for grown-ups. Crafty on-site activities include watercolor classes, floral focaccia baking, botanical mixology, and pressed flower pottery workshops. There are opportunities to make body oils and perfume, shear sheep, take a sound bath, and unlock the astrological secrets of your birth chart.

Off-property activities are equally enchanting: fly fishing, hiking, mountain climbing, and cycling for the active-minded are offset by the treasure trove of wellness experiences at the Thistle Spa. For those who’d rather relax, Body Botany, Restorative River Stone Massage, and the Remodeling Facial are a few of the many treatments they offer. I learn that the spa uses ‘hand-harvested, small-batch oils with floral remedies.’ Bravo, Wildflower, I expect nothing less.

Two outdoor hot tubs, an indoor pool, a relaxation area with platform daybeds, and a sauna are dreamy ways to pass the day, rain or shine. Complimentary yoga classes and a gym are offered in a nearby cottage overlooking a quiet pond. For those who want to splurge, a sailboat can take up to six guests on the Hudson River for a decadent champagne picnic.

Farm to Pocket to Table

Set in the heart of the Hudson Valley, the traditional farm aspects of the property don’t feel contrived. Visitors can opt into as much or as little ‘farm life’ as they’d like. For instance, each morning, guests are invited to feed the farm animals and collect eggs. Later, they can take the eggs to Clay, Wildflower’s restaurant, and have them prepared ‘your way’ for breakfast.

I close my eyes and delicately reach under a fat hen, trying to decide ‘which way’ I want my eggs prepared for breakfast. It’s still raining. But if the chickens aren’t bothered, then neither am I. Move over, Sarah Jessica Parker; I can be a farmer when I want to be. I’m baffled but not surprised when one pushy woman fills her pockets with six eggs, leaving many of us eggless. I resist the urge to accidentally bump into her shiny Moncler vest, hoping karma will prevail.

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Restaurant Clay

Clay, named for the rich soil where Wildflower’s vegetables are grown, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Its enormous yet intimate dining room has a stone fireplace, vaulted ceilings, and a unique seating layout.

Over our three days, I’m determined to sit in them all: the low, curved-back chairs that flank the central fireplace, the high-top tables with a bird’s-eye view into the kitchen, and the convivial banquettes that line the outer walls. Rugs, throw pillows, and upholstery patterns that shouldn’t look good together somehow do and reinforce why I will never be an interior designer.

My traveling companion is plant-based. Executive Sous Chef Kyle Chandler takes this as a personal challenge, creating culinary magic with plants, flowers, and vegetables. I’m secretly envious of her flower and herb-infused Pad Thai entrée, a dish created solely for her that evening. We share the light-as-air sweet potato tempura served with togarashi aioli and basil three nights in a row. Yes, they were that good.

Other menu highlights include farm-roasted carrots with tamarind and watermelon radish, and halibut accompanied by Brussels sprouts, pecans, and lemon. Yet, I will forever associate the humble olive oil pancake with our stay. The size of a standard-issue frisbee, topped with berries and a large dollop of lemon chantilly, it has forever ruined me for breakfast. I have no doubt that everyone who orders it swears it’s too big to finish—then completely devours it.

My Best Friend, Merlin

The rain allows me to experience Wildflower Farms in ways I didn’t anticipate. Instead of sitting by the pool with my nose buried in a book, I open the wide glass doors of our cabin and do pilates while watching mist fall on the meadow. I spot the eagle in a distant tree, this time with her mate. ‘Who’s guarding the nest?’ I wonder. Reading my mind, she takes flight. I watch her wingspan unfold in absolute awe as she soars over my head and out of frame.

The weather doesn’t stop us from exploring the property’s meandering trails. I use my Merlin Bird ID app without fear of ridicule, as my kids are hundreds of miles away. At one point, Merlin picks up seven different bird species chirping at once. If there’s ever a place to embrace your inner birder, Wildflower Farms is that place.

Yet, birds aren’t the only wildlife we see in the Hudson Valley. On one of our morning walks, a large cotton-tailed deer hops across our path. Another afternoon, we see a gray fox on the hunt. I revert to my love of collective nouns and discover that a group of eagles can be called an aerie, a convocation, or a soar. A group of foxes is called a skulk. A female fox is called a vixen, and male foxes are called dogs (how apt!). Who has this coveted collective noun naming job? I want to apply.

The Empty Nest

On our last morning at Wildflower Farms, I’m sitting fireside at The Great Porch when a spectacular thing happens—the sun comes out. I throw off my woolly blanket, abandon my cappuccino, and dash outside to take photos. The clouds part, and a double rainbow ekes its way through them. Gold cascades over the meadow, lighting the tips of the grasses. I see the doodles running amok. The rainbows arch over Wildflower Farms in a way that looks AI-generated. I watch them until they disappear.

There’s only one thing to do before the drive home. I grab my binoculars and walk towards the aerie, excitedly anticipating my last encounter with the eagles. I wait and wait, but they’re a no-show. The waiting gives me time to wallow in my soon-to-be empty nest sadness. Maybe it’s time to look at it in a new light.

An empty nest will give me more opportunities to visit places like Wildflower Farms. More chances to observe animals in their natural habitats (including ones wearing Chloé and Celine). And more chances to explore, discover, and settle—just like the Hudson River School painters did over a century ago.

Upwards and onwards. It’s time to let go.

Click here for my FREE Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet

May 29, 2024
Where’s Corsica? The Ultimate Guide To Our Corsica Travels

Our Corsica travels take us canyoning through mountains and hiking to mountaintop lakes. Our Corsica travels take us from party beaches to remote ones. Traveling in Corsica is an adventure a day, sprinkled with riverside retreats, clifftop restaurants, and the occasional wild pig.

Where’s Corsica, exactly? And does it belong on your travel wish list? Read on.

“If you don’t project yourself outwards,” our canyoning instructor says calmly, “it will end—how do you say in English—badly.”

I peer over the granite ledge. A gushing waterfall lies to my left, and a rock face extends 30 feet below. I feel, rather than see, my husband and kids doubting me from the water below. ‘Terrified’ vastly understates my singular emotion.

“Project outwards”, our guide repeats. Ever the rule follower, I close my eyes and—

Don’t panic, Mom; it ends well.

Where’s Corsica, exactly?

“Corsica is Italian.”, one friend says. Another assures me it’s Greek. The island of Corsica is closer to mainland Italy than any other country. Yet, surprise!—it’s a territory of France.

Who knew? I sure didn’t. Corsica is as elusive as Keyser Söze in The Usual Suspects. We meet only three other Americans on our trip. A testament to how relatively unknown Corsica is in the United States.

Why visit Corsica? I’ll pretend you asked. Follow along on our island adventures to discover what makes Corsica worth finding on a map.

As an aside, if The Usual Suspects reference escaped you, head over to your sofa and watch it. I’ll wait.

Corsica: What I wish I knew

Corsica is the fourth-largest island in the Mediterranean. There is no public transportation, so renting a car is a must. But be warned: Narrow roads and lanes run serpentine around colossal boulders and cliffs. Hairpin turns are frequent and hair-raising.

There are few, if any, barriers between cars and sudden death. Corsican drivers take to the roads like Lewis Hamilton wannabes. They drive like angry wasps. They laugh at lanes. According to my kids, I gasp 3,000 times. And that number doesn’t include the times I disguise my gasp as a cough.

I’m not making a case for Corsica. Bear with me. It gets better.

Corsica: by the numbers

Corsica is 112 miles long at its longest and 52 miles wide at its widest. It has 620 miles of coastline with 200 beaches. It’s home to the world-famous GR 20 Trail and has over 120 summits. Simmer down Corsica, my flights are booked.

We have 12 days. I want to cover ground but not feel rushed. Visit areas with different terrain and activities. Dine on authentic Corsican food and drink local wine. It’s a tall order, but Corsica delivers.

In Corsica, there are no bad regions (only bad drivers). Note the map of our route above. Those art school fees are really paying off, Dad.

Instead of a linear path (hahaha, there are no linear paths in Corsica!) I’ve outlined the highlights from our three destinations in Corsica. Will any of our adventures inspire you to visit? Let’s find out.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Canyoning, Haut-Corse

I jump—plunging into the cold canyon water with semi-wild abandon. I emerge, still holding my nose, to looks of disbelief (my kids, our guide) and pride (my husband). See, Mom? No need to panic.

“What is canyoning?” you ask. A friend aptly describes canyoning as ‘white water rafting without a raft.’ Hmmm, I don’t even enjoy white water rafting with a raft. The gorges and valleys of the Restonica River are widely known for the sport. If I’m going to try it, I’m in the right place.

After a sweaty 45-minute bathing-suit-clad hike, we put on our wetsuits, helmets, and water shoes. This isn’t pretty. Note the lack of photographic evidence. You’ll have to take me at my word.

We wade into a crystal clear pool of water. It’s crazy fun—to use a technical canyoning term. We scale boulders, swim under waterfalls, jump off cliffs, slide over rocks, and zip line above the river with child-like joy.

White water rafting without a raft turns out to be my new favorite sport.

Corsica Travels: Hiking, Haut-Corse

Our holiday wouldn’t be complete without a ~~treacherous~~ hike organized by my husband. The fact that Daniel and I fight when we hike would lead one to think it’s an activity to be avoided. But, no.

The ride to the trailhead is short yet harrowing. Blind corners with unyielding boulders on one side and unnerving precipices on the other. My kids will say I’m being hyperbolic. Wait. They don’t know what hyperbolic means. They’ll say I’m being emo.

Our goal is a 4-mile in-and-out hike to Lac de Melu in Haut-Corse. The lake sits at an elevation of 5,610 ft. Why we never visit sea-level lakes as regular people do baffles me. The views, (it pains me to admit), are worth the struggle. Don’t tell Daniel.

The landscape is prehistoric. I feel small—like ‘on the set of Jurassic Park’ small. Instead of ferocious dinosaurs, though, we encounter docile cows. Tall pines and fragrant alders look tiny against the towering, jagged mountains that loom in the distance.

Rangy rock faces glisten in the colors of Olympic medals. A gold medal is exactly what I’ll deserve after a day dodging cow dung with two moody teenagers. That, and a vodka tonic.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Coastal Towns and Vineyards

Choosing which towns to visit on an island with 650 miles of coastline is challenging. But I rise to it. Three exceptional examples follow.

PORTO-VECCHIO

Porto-Vecchio is a harbor town in southeast Corsica. Its focal point is Eglise St. Jean-Baptiste, a 19th-century church tower. Beside the church, an old-fashioned merry-go-round slowly rotates, delighting children.

Boutiques, wine shops, and restaurants are abuzz on the piazza. The heartbeat of Porto-Vecchio is palpable. A lovely introduction to Corsican life.

BONIFACIO

Bonifacio towers over the southernmost tip of Corsica. Its sculpted chalk-white limestone cliffs plunge dramatically into the Mediterranean Sea. These imposing sea walls make Bonifacio one of the most popular places to visit in Corsica.

Bonifacio is as picturesque as it is historical. The Staircase of King Aragon sits 200 feet above the sea. It was built in 1420 to access a freshwater well. Each of the 189 irregular stone steps is an accident waiting to happen, yet they are the highlight of my day.

After I reach the bottom, I walk along and under caves of eroding limestone. The Mediterranean views are interrupted only by paper-white sails of passing schooners. The water is luminous.

The downside of King Aragon’s arduous steps is as clear as the sea. What goes down must come up. I curse you, King Aragon. My quads still hurt.

PATRIMONIO

Patrimonio is considered Corsica’s best-known wine region. Our drive through Patrimonio reveals patterns of terraced vineyards in the foreground and Saint Florent Bay in the background. It’s a spectacular setting to sample the wines of the region. As an added bonus, it requires no death-defying roads.

We visit Domaine Leccia and Orenga de Gaffory wineries. Since I’m the only one in my family who enjoys wine tasting, I’m forced to drink at record speed. Corsicans do nothing at record speed except drive. Needless to say, I do nothing to alter American stereotypes. I hope the other three Americans in Corsica are better behaved.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Hilltop Villages

While visiting Corsica’s numerous hilltop villages, we hear pealing church bells celebrating a local wedding. We sit on lively piazzas with glasses of cloudy Pastis—a centuries-old pastime. Visiting these villages is another highlight of our Corsica travels.

Learn about private wine-tasting tours near Calvi. Click here!

NONZA

Nonza is located along another sea cliff wall. This time on the west coast of Cap Corse. Nonza is so tiny that by the time we realize we’ve reached it, we’ve passed it. My husband does an 18-point K-turn and finds a place to park. I make a mental note that arguing while driving has surpassed arguing while hiking.

The village centers around the 16th-century church of Saint-Julie. Its bright orange facade stands out against the village’s otherwise white-washed, ancient buildings. Wild oleander is in bloom, in colors to inspire Nars’ next lip gloss shades.

We have lunch at La Sassa, an outdoor-only restaurant with a low-key party vibe and Michelin-worthy food. It is 160 meters above the beach and overhangs the sea.

White-capped waves swirl below, and the Genoese Tower of Nonza soars above—an unparalleled lunch setting, indeed.

Reservations are a must at La Sassa. I’m not proud to admit it, but I felt smug watching hungry onlookers envy my tuna tartare.

CORTE

Corte lies deep in the mountainous interior of the island. The air smells of pine, the humidity is low, and rivers and waterfalls rumble gently in the distance.

Although crowded, the town of Corte feels untouched by mainstream tourism. The piazza overflows with locals. A musician croons. I notice people sitting on windowsills above—catching notes as they rise into the sky. I capture a snapshot of Corsican life in my mind rather than with my camera.

Corte steals my heart in the subtlest ways, with its hidden pottery studios, produce markets, and a spectacular citadel piercing the sky. When I return home, I’ll remember these moments—the simplicity and authenticity—and I’ll miss them.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

OLETTA

Oletta is the opposite of the lively and musical Corte. It’s eerily quiet, with jagged stone steps and paths that weave intricately around the village. Flowers and vines climb crumbling stone walls and overflow from ceramic pots. How they grow is a mystery, as Oletta’s narrow, sleepy streets hardly allow for sunlight to reach them.

One evening, we dine in the village, and the residents magically appear—playing cards, laughing, and drinking. Where have they been hiding?

We sit outdoors at A Forge, a restaurant overlooking the valley. By the time we head back to our hotel, everyone has disappeared, and the town is silent again.

Corsica Travels: Beaches

The beaches surrounding Corsica range from nearly deserted, boat-access only to restaurant-lined with a party vibe. For the sake of keeping my audience engaged (are you still with me?), two of many standouts follow.

THE LAVEZZI ISLANDS ARCHIPELAGO

The Lavezzi Islands Archipelago, in southern Corsica, is just a few miles from Bonifacio’s formidable limestone walls. Accessible only by boat, it’s an aquatic playground for divers and snorkelers alike.

Some islands are quiet, with gigantic granite boulders that break the water’s glassy surface. Coral reefs are chock full of colorful schools of fish.

Other islands are a party on the sea with tranquil, waist-deep water. This creates a pop-up pool party atmosphere that is impossible not to enjoy. Think bikini-clad (and yikes, Speed-O-clad) people dancing on boats, in-water volleyball games, and colorful inflatable rafts floating on the placid Mediterranean Sea.

Discover the Lavezzi islands and the cliffs of Bonifacio by boat! Click her e.

AGRIATES DESERT

The Agriates Desert, in Northern Corsica, is a barren and dry coastline mainly accessible by boat. Any day in Corsica that doesn’t require driving is my kind of day.

But calling this 40km stretch of protected land a desert is misleading. The Agriates Desert is home to Corsica’s most remote beaches: Windswept, scrub-covered, wild, and sun-scorched.

Windex-colored waters, pale limestone boulders, and wide stretches of golden sand make this part of the Corsican coast so appealing. The air is heavy with history and the scent of the island’s ubiquitous maquis.

Maquis is a scrubby, untamed shrub that covers much of Corsica’s hills. Its scent combines at least nine herbs, including eucalyptus, juniper, rosemary, and heather. The scent is so popular that the famous French perfumery Diptique makes a maquis-scented candle. For $72, I can relive my Corsica memories from home.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Retreats and Hotels

Each of our three accommodations in Corsica is equally enchanting—from riverside retreats to hilltop and beachside boutique hotels. When I ask the kids which place is their favorite, they can’t decide. Well done, me.

LES BERGERIES DE PALOMBAGGIA

Les Bergeries de Palombaggia, in Porto-Vecchio, is a Relais & Chateaux property seven miles from Sardinia. This Italian island’s silhouette provides a never-ending and beautiful backdrop to our stay. Grazie, Italia.

Life at Les Bergeries centers around its inviting infinity-edged pool. The views at sunset, when the sky mirrors the sea, are especially spectacular. Palombaggia Beach is a short, convenient, and pretty walk from the hotel.

The sea air is filled with the aromatic herbs of the maquis. Les Bergeries’ old terra cotta roof tiles have faded to rich hues of sienna and mocha. I spot olive trees with silvery sage leaves and vibrant green umbrella pines. Les Bergeries’ color palette is as French as it gets. The overall vibe is ‘low-key fancy’—my favorite kind.

HIGHLIGHTS Breakfast with locally made jams, crêpes, brioches, and traditional Fiodone (Corsican cheesecake) / La Table de Mina’s poolside dining patio at sunset / Suites with hydrangea-filled balconies overlooking the pool and sea

Check Availability at Les Bergeries de Palambaggia here

HOTEL DOMINIQUE COLONNA

Dominique Colonna, in Corte, is a riverside boutique hotel. Inspired by nature, its charm lies in sheer simplicity. Intentionally spartan in design, the rooms are divine, with small balconies facing the river.

The hotel’s low-impact exterior respectfully sits within the dramatic mountainous scenery. Dominique Colonna is a sublime spot from which we launch our Haut-Corse adventures. But the grounds are so welcoming and intimate that I’m hard-pressed to leave it each day.

HIGHLIGHTS Impeccably-maintained Mediterranean gardens that showcase dwarf olive trees, climbing white jasmine, and Florentine cypresses / The tiered riverside terrace for a breakfast of housemade granolas and local honey / A private massage cube made of wood and glass, nestled in the woods by the pool

Check Availability at Hotel Dominique Colonna here

AETHOS U PALAZZU SERENU

U Palazzu Serenu, in Oletta, was once a 17th-century palace. After a complete restoration, this nine-room hotel is now basking in its original glory. This classic, austere, contemporary boutique hotel has rooms and common spaces designed in layers of white.

Our suite’s white-louvered windows have all-encompassing views of vineyards and Saint Florent Bay. Recycled wood, museum-worthy art, and artfully chosen coffee table books make the rooms feel personal and homey.

U Palazzu Serenu’s unique selling point is its secret access to Oletta. A creaky back gate hidden behind the pool’s tiered lounging area allows me to explore Oletta whenever I want. I go each day, searching for signs of life. Mainly, I see feral cats.

HIGHLIGHTS The small, sheltered dining space by the pool is by reservation only. It serves ‘Italian classics with a Corsican twist.’ The artwork and sculptures are by renowned artists such as Paul de Pignol, Wendy Wischer, and Udo Nöger. The pool. Views from the pool. Drinks at the pool.

In Corsica, All’s Well That Ends Well

It’s pretty hard not to fall for Corsica. Even if that means intentionally falling from a 30-foot granite ledge into a gurgling river. I placed my trust in this rugged, craggy, and far-flung island. I was ever-rewarded.

The beauty of Corsica is in the adventures, but it’s also in the details—the colorful facade of a hilltop church against emerald green mountains. Wild oleander poking through an ancient stone wall beside an abandoned Genoese tower. A pottery studio found only by following wooden signs through a maze-like village. Wild pigs grazing on the side of the road.

As I said, it’s hard not to fall for Corsica. Just don’t forget to project outwards. You won’t regret it.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Ready to travel—but can’t find the time to plan?

Anyone can Google a destination, but finding the right sources, the hidden gems, the places worth your time—well, that’s an art that takes time. I’ll cut through the noise, saving you from hours of searching in the wrong places. Each of my recommendations is researched with your specific trip in mind.

After visiting 70 countries on 7 continents, I know how overwhelming travel planning can be.

But I also know how to make it easy. And exciting. And stress-free.

Click here to learn more about Jamie Edwards Travel Coaching

My research. Your adventure.

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

May 10, 2024

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