I am Lost and Found

Tag: hiking

Bhutan is the World’s First Magic Kingdom

I’m slightly out of breath, thanking my Soul Cycle instructors for my current fitness level. The climb has been hard work. But I’m prepared. After all, I’ve had a year to get ready. A year to imagine the moment I’d see this architectural wonder in person. Hanging precariously from a mountain cliff, it’s lived up to the hype. After hiking several miles and over 800 stone steps, I’m face to face with the Tiger’s Nest, an ancient monastery in western Bhutan. I’m in awe.

Bhutan is having a moment—and for good reason. For adventurers looking to explore a part of the world untouched by mainstream tourism, travel to Bhutan. Bhutanese life is filled with festivals, markets, culture, and art. Bhutan hotels offer quiet luxury and authentic food. The Bhutanese people are warm and welcoming. Travel to Bhutan is on the rise. Get on your bike and start peddling—the hike to the Tiger’s Nest is not to be missed.

Is Bhutan on your radar? Are you intrigued yet unsure if it’s the right destination for you? Follow along to discover the magic of this faraway kingdom.

Where is Bhutan?

‘So where is this magical country, exactly?’ you might wonder. Bhutan is sandwiched between India and Tibet. Small and landlocked, the kingdom of Bhutan is defined by three topographical features: The Great Himalayas, the Inner Himalayas, and the Southern Foothills.

Technically, Bhutan lies at the intersection of South Asia and East Asia. And while Dzongkha (a dialect of Tibetan) is Bhutan’s national language, all kids learn English in school. This makes traveling to Bhutan even more accessible for English-speaking tourists.

General facts:

Bhutan has a population of just under 800,000 people.

Just over 14,000 square miles, it’s roughly half the size of Indiana.

Thimphu is Bhutan’s capital.

The reigning monarch is King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck. He’s 43 years old, handsome, and adored by his people.

Bhutan’s median age is 29.4 years old, with one-third of its population under 14.

How Difficult is it to Travel to Bhutan?

For being such a remote Asian country, getting to Bhutan is not as challenging as one might think. But it’s not as direct as hopping over the pond to London, either. The best way to travel there is by air. Cities like Bangkok, Kathmandu, Mumbai, and Dehli offer flights to Paro International, which is Bhutan’s only international airport.

The landing at Paro Airport is known to be one of the world’s ~~scariest~~ most thrilling. This is due to a terrifying trifecta of reasons. Firstly, the plane has to navigate a narrow mountain pass in the Himalayas to land in the Paro Valley. Secondly, the runway is short—just over 7000ft. And thirdly, the weather in Bhutan is extremely changeable—susceptible to fog, low clouds, and strong winds. I was ignorant of this valuable information before my trip. You won’t be.

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When to Go

Bhutan’s climate is diverse because of its varied regions. However, the best months to travel there are spring and fall. Tourists will benefit from pleasant, mild temperatures that amplify the glorious terrain. June and July are notoriously hot. In winter months, the weather is less predictable.

‘Bhutan’ translates to ‘Land of the Thunder Dragon’ due to the fierce storms that often roll in from the Himalayan mountain range. Unless fierce storms and unpredictable weather are your thing, spring and fall are your best bets.

Why Travel to Bhutan?

Bhutan has only been open to tourism since 1974, when it was recognized as a country by the United Nations. While its history in tourism is short, the country learned how to please travelers quickly.

Some travel to Bhutan in search of answers, meditative opportunities, and guidance. This tiny Buddhist country has a spiritual footprint that draws travelers from around the world. Monks are accessible and welcome guests with open arms. Others travel to Bhutan with questions like: ‘Why is the Tiger’s Nest so important?’ or, ‘How did Bhutan become the only carbon-negative country in the world?’

Whether seeking a meditative experience or an adventure-filled one, this small country has opportunities for all to enjoy and embrace. It’s one of the most scenic countries in the world, with snow-capped mountains, verdant valleys, and winding rivers. There are opportunities for endless discovery, both personal and atmospheric, in Bhutan.

What to do in Bhutan

Travelers to Bhutan could easily spend two weeks without running out of things to do. But should you only have a week or less to spare, a few highlights follow.

Hike to the Tigers Nest (aka Paro Taktsang)

Follow a steep and strenuous trail to Bhutan’s most well-known and most photographed landmark. Sitting at 3120 meters above the Paro Valley, the Tiger’s Nest began as a cave used for meditation in the 9th century. In 1692, the monastery was formally built around it. Visitors will pass beautiful scenery along the 3.5-mile in-and-out hike, a powered prayer wheel, and rows of fluttering prayer flags. The Tiger’s Nest itself is an architectural marvel. It’s said to cling to the side of the mountain like a gecko.

Visit Punakha Dzong

Once serving as a stronghold against enemy attack, a dzong is a Bhutanese fortress/monastery. The second largest, second oldest, and arguably the most stunning example is Punakha Dzong. Strategically placed between two rivers, this enormous fortress is even more fascinating once we learn no nails were used to build it. If your itinerary only allows for one dzong visit, this is the one to see.

Grab a bow and arrow

Archery (known in Bhutanese as ‘Da’) became the national sport in 1971. Its popularity has soared with every passing decade since. According to Wikipedia, ‘Archery in Bhutan is culturally distinctive because it is a martial art practiced among a modern population that abhors killing.’ In addition, archery builds concentration levels, contributing to better mental health.

Visitors can participate in or watch archery at the Changlimithang Archery Range and Workshops at Changlimithang Stadium in Thimphu. It’s the most popular venue for the sport and is frequented by locals and foreigners alike.

Walk across a suspension bridge

At 160 meters in length, the Punakha Bridge is one of the longest in Bhutan. It links Punakha Dzong to villages across the Po Chu River. Draped in colorful Bhutanese prayer flags, the bridge is about one-half mile from Punakha Dzong and a wonderful starting point for hikes. In a country defined by high mountains and steep gorges, traversing suspension bridges is a way of life. While they will certainly test anyone’s fear of heights, you’ll likely find them to be surprisingly stable.

Drive the Dochu La Pass

The drive from Punakha to Thimphu will take visitors through a mountain pass in the Himalayas called Dochu La. It’s here where 108 stupas (hemispherical structures that contain relics and are used for meditation) known as the ‘Druk Wangyal Chortens’ are displayed. At 3100 meters, on a clear day, travelers will have panoramic views of the highest peak in Bhutan—Gangkar Puensum.

Bhutan’s most unique place to stay

Bhutan has a few wonderful hotels from which travelers can choose to stay. However, Aman Resorts has been a leader in luxury and adventure travel there for decades. Aman is a favorite for travelers looking to immerse themselves in the rich culture of the country they’re visiting.

The ‘Amankora Journey’ in Bhutan is based on guest’s individual goals and desires. With five lodges across five valleys and itineraries that range from three days to 16+, Aman’s experiences are unparalleled in Bhutan. The ‘Amankora Journey’ includes all meals, spa treatments, a car, a driver, and a guide. Each lodge is a Himalayan sanctuary unto its own.

Bhutan Travel: Know Before You Go

Bhutan is a safe country to visit. Petty crime is uncommon, and violent crime is rare. As in any foreign country, it’s always important to be alert. Visitors from the US will need to obtain a visa. And, it’s important to note that Bhutan charges visitors a daily tariff of up to $250 a day in the high season.

Other things to know:

Bhutanese food tends to be spicy.

When visiting a dzong, jeans and hats aren’t allowed. Be respectful by covering up arms and legs.

Internet service is spotty in Bhutan. Consider getting a SIM card when entering the country.

Bhutan roads are windy and steep. If prone to car sickness, don’t forget to pack medications.

Travel insurance is mandatory.

You’re Going Where?

Bhutan is as far off the beaten path as one can get these days. It’s a country known for its staggering beauty, welcoming people, and rich cultural history. Overall—a must-visit for intrepid travelers.

So, when you tell your friends you’re going to Bhutan and they say, “Why Bhutan?” you’ll know. Ready to tackle the Tiger’s Nest? Dust off those hiking boots and start preparing.

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Author’s Note: This article was initially written for CIRE Travel, where I’m a contributing writer and a client.

March 17, 2024
Is Amangani the Best Lodge in Jackson Hole?

We were well on our way to Amangani when I saw ‘WOAH’ on a red octagonal sign that would normally read ‘STOP.’ We’d been in Jackson Hole for a total of 30 minutes. Little did we know that ‘Woah!’ would become the buzzword of this trip among the Teton mountains. Amangani, here we come.

Nerves of Steel, in Jackson Hole

There have been precious few trips where wildlife has played a central role in our experience. Safari in Botswana was certainly one of them, and gorilla tracking in Uganda was another. Closer to home, but no less adventurous, was Jackson Hole, Wyoming. The impetus of the trip was three days of hiking in Jackson Hole’s Teton Mountain Range, planned by my husband, Daniel. I was nervous, I’ll admit now. Not only nervous the hiking would get the best of me physically, but the bears. I was nervous about the bears.

Those who have grown up in the West might find my fears amusing. As a former New Yorker, I was never afraid of being mugged or subway rats—but bears were another story. Being born and raised in the metropolitan northeast, where my most grizzly encounters were with the squeegee guys at the Lincoln Tunnel, the West meant ‘wild’. Frankly, I wasn’t sure I was cut out for it.

Softening the blow, my husband cushioned the trip by booking Amangani. Having spent time at Amangiri in Utah a few years ago, we knew we were in for a decadent experience.

Bear Spray Rentals, in Jackson Hole

After touching down at Jackson Hole Airport, we headed to baggage claim. At the carousel, I spotted a kiosk called ‘Bear Spray Rentals.’ What a clever name for a car rental service, I thought. It took another beat to register that the kiosk was actually renting bear spray. Did I mention that I spent all my adult life in big cities?

According to the attendant, bear spray is rarely used in Jackson Hole, as the bears want to hang out with us about as much as we do with them. That said, I rented a can of bear insurance and went on my merry way.

As a barometer for the kind of scenery we were in for, I needed only to look out the car window. If it’s this scenic at the airport in Jackson Hole, we were in for something pretty spectacular. The airport was named a national monument in 1943 and merged with Grand Teton National Park a few years later. I also discovered that the airport is ‘a popular mating ground for the sage grouse.’ Good local knowledge. I was fitting in already.

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At Amangani, it’s love at first WOAH!

Amangani is low-profile and high-impact, an architectural style we have noticed at many Aman properties. Perched upon a hilltop, with illustrative snow-capped mountain views in the distance (even in July) and green pastures of cows below, Amangani’s vibe is modern rustic lodge-chic. The exterior is a lovely combination of redwood and stone and sits ever-so-comfortably in its surroundings.

A small pond on the grounds, which later became a never-ending photo op, was a flourish on the bucolic scene. It acted as a backdrop to Jackson Hole’s glorious Grand Teton mountain range photos that changed with the light and mirrored the cloud formations that rolled past throughout the day. I was obsessively drawn to this spot, as is clearly evident from the absurd number of photos I took there.

Settling into Amangani

Upon entering Amangani, which means ‘peaceful home’, a grand, sweeping staircase welcomed us. The staircase led to a multi-level windowed wall that formally introduced us to the landscape. Hello, Tetons!

There were plenty of spaces to find quiet at Amangani. Comfy chairs were placed to maximize the panorama of the Snake River Valley, whether in the lounge, the airy central sitting area, or on our private room balcony. Native American touches, oversized sepia-tinted wildlife photography, painted cowhides, and textiles were displayed. Everything was placed with a designer’s touch.

A room for all seasons at Amangani

As tempting as it was to spend all of our time outside in Jackson Hole, the rooms at Amangani encouraged us to stay in. Being an all-season destination, the rooms at Amangani had as much to offer comfort-wise as we could wish for.

A raw-cut stone fireplace sat in the corner. The room’s centerpiece was a low platform bed, donned with crisp, white linens and a wooden headboard that went from floor to ceiling and continued its design onto the ceiling itself. Natural materials in shades of gray, ecru, and soft faux fur accents completed the ambient scene.

Were it not for the showstopper of a pool and the hiking ahead, I would have been hard-pressed to leave the walls of the lodge and head out into Jackson Hole at all.

To infinity and beyond, at Amangani

One of the hotel’s unique selling points was its nearly 400-square-foot heated outdoor infinity pool. The rectangular, blue-toned, mosaic-tiled pool spanned the entire length of the main lodge. It offered uninterrupted mountain views. The icing on the cake was the square, sunken hot tub that sat center stage along the pool’s top edge. Its idyllic location begged us to enjoy a bottle of champagne there.

The row of poolside loungers was a magical spot from which to watch the layers of blue sky evolve throughout the afternoon. Jackson’s jagged Teton mountains cut into the sky in the distance, and puffy cloud formations floated effortlessly in the foreground.

In Jackson Hole, it’s all about the views

A rickety wooden fence edged the perimeter. Beyond that, a steep slope led towards green fields and cow pastures. From our aquatic perch, the cows looked no bigger than ants in the Snake River Valley, and we dreamily watched them migrate across the pasture each day post-hike. My legs were rendered useless by then, and I was very happy to not have to use them for the remainder of the day.

The air was cool and dry. I watched red-tailed hawks crisscross the sky over our heads. An idyllic scene.

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Hiking Jackson Hole’s Cascade Mountain

At 6am, our alarm sounded. This was not my idea of a vacation. Although I knew that once I got going and had some caffeine, I’d be happy to start the morning. Daniel is obsessed with avoiding crowds. He hates parades, auctions, big parties, and just about any situation where he might have to converse with strangers. Hence, the early start time. I, on the other hand, am obsessed with avoiding bears and moose, and I’m told they like to get a jump start on their day around the same time.

According to our guidebook, Jackson Hole’s Cascade Canyon hike is majestic, adorned with a canopy of Douglas firs, sheer canyon walls, and Teton mountain views. However, it warned of the huckleberry bushes along the way that attract grizzlies. In this case, being first on the trail meant being first to greet the hungry huckleberry eaters. I took a long, deep breath, and we set off.

Grand Teton and Jenny Lake

Crossing Jenny Lake to get to the trailhead made the early wake-up worthwhile. The lake was flat and serene, mirroring the mountains and clouds, undulating ripples for as far as I could see. I quickly noticed that the few other passengers on the boat had bells, music, and whistles, to detract wildlife. We had nothing, so were told to keep up a steady, and loud conversation. Who has six hours of steady conversation after 17 years of marriage?

Noisy, gushing waterfalls, wooden footbridges, and enormous pines met us as we started our ascent. It couldn’t have been more beautiful and peaceful, especially since no one else was on the trail. We made it up the first steep pass to Inspiration Point, which offered uninterrupted views of Jenny Lake.

Finding our stride in Jackson Hole

We saw signs of bears, like tree trunks that had been used for sharpening claws, but thankfully, no actual bears. Daniel walked ahead carrying the bear spray, which was a clever ploy to get me to keep up with his faster pace. The 13.6-mile round-trip journey took us through spots called Paintbrush Divide and Hidden Falls, which looked as illustrative as their names implied. Birds of prey glided in the breeze overhead.

Wyoming’s snow-capped Grand Teton welcomed us in the distance like a beacon. I might have smirked more than once on our hike back towards the lake as we passed hikers starting their climb as we finished ours. Thank you, Daniel.

Once again, my weary legs earned the right to sit at the pool’s edge and revel in the morning’s accomplishment, book in one hand, a refreshing drink in the other. With rewards like this, I could certainly get used to hiking.

Eat and drink, Amangani and beyond

While the town of Jackson Hole and Teton Village was only a fifteen-minute drive from the resort, we ended up going out for dinner only twice in five nights. It was too hard to leave the nest after a day of hiking and sun-soaking.

The dining room at the Amangani Lodge was ambient and moody, with a menu with enough variety to satisfy us for three dinners. As you might imagine, the windows played a large role in the setting, and it was hard to concentrate on anything when the views were as captivating as the Teton mountain range.

Jackson Hole’s Snake River Grill

One of our two dinners out in Jackson Hole was at the highly recommended Snake River Grill. We wondered if it could live up to the hype, as everyone I had spoken to about Jackson had waxed lyrical about it. The simple log cabin decor somewhat belies the elegance of the food. We were impressed from the first bite.

The menu at Snake River Grill was bold, with hearty meats like elk, beef cheeks, and pork shank. It also catered to the pescatarian and vegetarian, with options like a roasted cauliflower steak and sea bass. As has become a habit, when I am fully enthralled with a meal, I forget to take photos. I have since become a master at ‘mostly-eaten’ food photography. Take my word for it: the food looked appetizing when it arrived.

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Conquering Jackson Hole’s Delta Lake

The next morning came a little too soon, especially after a stomach full of elk, but I rallied, remembering the views and the scenery, forgetting, for a moment, about the bears. Daniel told me that we were going to hike to Delta Lake, a glacial lake at the base of Grand Teton.

What he didn’t tell me was that to access this hidden gem, we needed to take unofficial, unmaintained trails, navigate several steep boulder fields, and bypass fallen trees along a rocky precipice.

It’s tempting to say it wasn’t worth it—but I can’t lie. It was as if we were discovering another world deep inside the natural wonderland of the Tetons. After about three hours of hiking, we finally caught sight of the lake—Woah!

The lake was a luminous milky turquoise, the kind of color that is impossible to truly describe. I read later that Delta Lake gets its otherworldly hue from the glacial silt of the Teton Glacier. Wherever it gets it, I was sold. Hiking was my new favorite pastime, bears or not.

Al Fresco at Amangani

With day two of hiking (and surviving) behind us, we later celebrated with drinks outside on Amangani’s veranda. The fully stocked bar looked especially beautiful as the setting sun started to descend behind the glass bottles. Another pair of red-tailed hawks soared and circled above as if delicately sewn into the fabric of the scene.

In the distance, dark storms gathered. The air smelled heavy. As it came closer, it became a game of chicken—in which guests would abandon their seats first to take cover. The raindrops didn’t slowly trickle as much as they decided to whole-heartedly dump down on us at once. We dashed indoors.

The storm didn’t disappoint. Jagged lightning bolts took turns bolting, and thunder cracks intermittently cracked. Then, as dramatically as it had started—it stopped. The rainclouds were beyond us, heading towards and eventually obscuring Grand Teton before making their way swiftly across the range. What the storm left behind was a sky of violent color, dramatic clouds, and crisp mountain silhouettes. Woah.

Amangani-led safari

With a hiking reprieve the next day, we headed out with a guide on a land safari in Grand Teton National Park. Our guide was so full of information—about wildlife, mating calls, obscure species, flora, and fauna that I didn’t have the bandwidth in my brain to keep up. I tried to impress him with my mating knowledge of the sage grouse, but it seemed he was already up to speed. Show off.

I was excited for a break and a day of photographic soul food. Searching for wildlife from the safety of a car? Now, I was in my happy place.

Again, an early morning beckoned, as that is when the wildlife is easiest to spot. We immediately came upon a herd of lovely chocolate brown elk silently grazing in a barely sun-touched field. Soon after, we spotted a pair of bison on the road’s edge.

Bisons have an awkward body shape, with a massive hairy head and front quarters compared to their somewhat skinny, spindly hindquarters. I was taken by surprise when we witnessed these large mammals elegantly jump a fence to get more food. They are shockingly limber creatures!

The crowning moment of the morning, without question, was when we drove directly past an enormous grizzly bear grazing just off the side of the road. With wildflowers in the foreground and fields and mountains in the background, it felt like he had been planted there for camera-armed tourists like me.

We watched this lovely old grizzly slowly saunter around, munching plants, minding his own bucolic existence. Woah. It was one of the best wildlife moments of all time. When you have Jackson Hole, who needs Africa?

Tackling the Teton Mountains

It was inevitable that something would go wrong; we were in the wilderness, after all. Our third day of hiking started typically enough. We rode up the aerial tram to Rendezvous Mountain, where we were due to take a scenic 12-mile hike down to the base. Many had told us about the heavenly waffles that were sold at Corbet’s Cabin, just at the summit, and I bee-lined there as soon as we hopped off—energy for the hike ahead.

Again, a victim of half-eaten food photography, I had already inhaled their famous traditional brown sugar-buttered waffle before I remembered to snap it.

Although it was July, there was still snow on the ground in places, and some signage might or might have not been obscured. Or, we might have just missed the signs altogether. We got lost, found ourselves off the trail, my biggest nightmare, and to top it off, we had just descended a harrowing scree field that took all of my technical and physical energy.

As if that weren’t enough, I caught sight of a lumbering silhouette alongside the stream in the distance. Yes, I panicked. Yes, we argued loudly. The upside was that our shouting definitely kept the bear at bay.

After deciding to cut our losses and head back to the tram via the dreaded scree field we had just navigated (exponentially worse going up than down), we had still hiked about 10 miles, had an adventure, and gone nowhere. At least we had those famous buttery waffles.

Until next time, Jackson Hole

Sometimes, it is best to have not seen and done it all. To leave something behind for another day —a reason to return. The iconic male moose had eluded us those five days, even though our eyes were peeled for him at every turn. We had seen our fair share of wildlife in Jackson Hole, snow-capped Teton mountain views, and epic hiking adventures.

Until next time, Jackson Hole.

Author’s Update: Amangani will close in April of 2025 for extensive refurbishment and reopen in the summer of 2026.

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February 15, 2024
How to get to Antarctica—the most extreme place on Earth

My Antarctic travels reveal more than the differences between Weddell and Leopard seals. Or how Gentoo penguins care for their young. My Antarctic travels reveal the power of the wind. And how much of an iceberg we really see floating above the water’s surface. Antarctica evokes awe. I discovered anything can happen in Antarctica—which is exactly the way it should be. Wondering how I got to Antarctica? Bundle up—you’re in the right place.

A humpback whale breaks the water’s inky surface. Remains of barnacles, those ubiquitous ocean hitchhikers, appear on its bulbous body. Thirty feet from my sea kayak, I see its dorsal fin and tail disappear into the sea as if caught in slow motion. An iceberg provides a striking background to its dripping fluke. It takes a deep dive, and I nervously wonder where and when it will resurface.

I’m in Antarctica, the most extreme place on Earth. A humpback whale is swimming directly beneath me. Justifiably, I’m a little nervous, but mainly, I feel at peace.

The idea of Antarctica

I can’t recall what inspired my Antarctic travels. But it will surely have to do with a combination of three things I crave: adventure, wildlife, and a desire to go places before everyone else.

I asked Rick, my 78-year-old stepfather, if he’d like to join me. The conversation goes something like this: “Rick, do you want to go to Ant—”

“YES!”

I could well have been asking Rick to go to Antwerp. Rick is up for anything, which is one of the reasons I ask him. He doesn’t bat an eye. Antarctica, Antwerp, Antigua. He’s in.

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Antarctic Travels: Quark’s Ultramarine

There are two ways to get to Antarctica—by airplane or by ship. Ships typically depart from the southernmost tip of Argentina, from a city named Ushuaia. I choose Quark Expeditions’ ultra-modern Ultramarine. Quark has decades of experience in polar travel. Their two-year-old Ultramarine has a maximum capacity of 199 guests. It’s purpose-built for polar travel and is purely expedition-based. These two factors weigh heavily in my decision.

Purpose-built means the ship was designed from scratch to handle polar conditions. Expedition-based means the trip is all about wildlife, excursions, and the environment: no cringe-y nightly shows or formal dinners.

Base Camp

The Ultramarine is the equivalent of a mountain climber’s base camp. It has everything we need to stay safe, keep warm, and be well-fed on our daily adventures. For instance, Deck 2 has two ready rooms where each guest has a personal cubby for outdoor gear, life-saving equipment, and muck boots. Deck 2 is designed to fast-launch twenty Zodiac boats that shuttle intrepid explorers around the sea with the speed and precision of a military operation.

Deck 5 is where the main restaurant, Balena, is located. Balena’s ever-changing menu has options from fresh tuna to filet mignon. It also has a daily ice cream station where the chef recreates my childhood fave—the Chipwich. There is no all-day buffet, but I can promise that no one on the Ultramarine goes hungry.

Deck 8 has two twin-engine helicopters for flight-seeing, heli-trekking, and heli-landings. Deck 7 has features designed for self-care—a sauna with floor-to-ceiling windows and the aptly named Tundra spa. Bistro 487 and the Panorama Lounge are also on Deck 7—with spaces designed for maximum relaxation between excursions.

Antarctic Eco-Matters

Quark Expeditions has a strong sustainability and eco-conscious mindset. They care about the planet and show it. A few examples include the lack of single-use plastic on board the Ultramarine. Instead, guests are given two soft water bladders that can be refilled at stations throughout the ship. The boat is practically paperless. Computer displays on each deck outline the day’s events, and an onboard phone app provides instant access to information.

Our muck boots are disinfected after each polar landing so as not to spread avian flu. For the same reason, we aren’t allowed to kneel or place equipment on the continent during excursions. The crazy (I mean, adventurous) explorers who sign up to sleep one night on the continent are only allowed to take a sleeping bag. No food. No drinks. And no tents. They are told not to pee on the continent, either. How this played out is anyone’s guess.

Quark has its eco-mindset firmly set. It also has a team of expedition guides I want to be when I grow up.

Explorers Wanted

Our Expedition Leader is named Abbey. Along with the Captain, she’s in charge of, well—everything. Abbey wakes us from our polar slumber each morning via the PA system. Each evening, she (and the team) presents a recap of the day’s events and a briefing for the following day’s Antarctic travels.

Abbey’s sentences often begin with ‘If conditions allow…’ or ‘We are hoping to…’. This isn’t because Abbey is ill-informed. It’s because, from day to day, no one but Mother Nature knows quite what the Antarctic has in store. If this doesn’t pique your interest, perhaps Antarctica is best visited from your couch with David Attenborough and the BBC.

For example, the day we are due to explore Hidden Bay, Mother Nature decides to deny us entry by creating winds the Ultramarine can’t battle. A humbling moment like this makes each day a true adventure in Antarctica. It also makes it difficult to be Abbey.

Antarctic Travels: The Ultramarine Dream Team

The Expedition Team is a multifaceted group of explorers. Fabrice is Ultramarine’s ornithology presenter. He is also a biologist, a children’s picture book author, and a skillful Zodiac driver. Michelle is the onboard photography guide. She is also a trained field guide and fluent in Spanish, French, Catalan, and the Queen’s English—a bonus for many European and South American passengers.

Ross is a 26-year-old British historian. He treats polar history with the gusto of a Broadway performer on opening night. History was my least favorite subject in school (sorry, Ross), yet I’m riveted by every talk he gives. I go to the lounge early for a front-row seat to his Shackleton presentation. I’m not the only one. Ross has a talent for storytelling that goes well beyond his years.

The expertise and unity of the crew, expedition team, expedition leader, and captain (140 people strong) are critical to the journey’s success. When I spend ten hours in my cabin on lockdown due to a category of wind just shy of hurricane strength, I want to know that my fate is in the hands of experts. That way I can best enjoy my pan-seared Dover sole with lemon and couscous while watching The Secret Life of Walter Mitty on my flat-screen TV without a trace of anxiety.

Cabin Fever

My room is big—only marginally smaller than my first studio apartment in NYC, and with more closet space. The modern bathroom has an oversized mirrored vanity, a walk-in shower, and heated floors that are perfect for drying wet gloves or hats overnight. While built-in bottles of shampoo, conditioner, and body wash containers align with the no single-use plastic model, it also means nothing is falling off the shower ledge as we cruise through Antarctic waters.

Cabin 325 has a large picture window facing the sea nearly at sea level. I’m on Deck 3, the lowest deck for cabins, and I like the view more than I anticipated. I sit in the deep window frame with a pillow each night to watch the sea for whales and the sky for birds. I count wandering albatrosses, storm petrels, and Antarctic prions as the sun sets. January is summer in Antarctica, so it stays light well after I’ve gone to bed.

This window is a backstage pass to Antarctica’s glory. I don’t even need to leave my room to experience it.

The Drake Passage, Part One

The Drake Passage is infamous. These words conjure up age-old explorers, choppy, turbulent waters, epic winds, and crashing waves. In the factual sense, the Drake Passage is the shortest route from civilization to Antarctica. It’s 620 miles wide and over 11,000 feet deep, with water passing through it at up to 200 million cubic yards per second. I’m not one for numbers, but that sounds pretty intense. In the abstract sense, the Drake Passage is one of the planet’s most thrilling and exclusive adventures.

I lift my gaze towards the open sea as we leave the safety of the Beagle Channel. Who knows what awaits—which is another part of the adventure of Antarctic travel. Waves gently roll for hundreds of miles with nothing to break their undulating stride. Our two-day passage proves to be eerily calm—an extreme often called the Drake Lake. Guests toast the sea gods with another cocktail. And another.

None of us think about the fact that we will have to come back. It’s just as well.

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Outside, it’s Antarctica

It’s 630am. I race to my cabin window. A world of polar white greets me. I stumble as I get dressed. I grab my binoculars, camera, and heated vest. It may be early, but the rattle and hum of the ship are palpable. The combined energy of 136 toddlers waking up on Christmas morning. I’m afraid if I waste even one moment, Antarctica might disappear.

We have arrived at Hughes Bay, which lies along the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. It’s 26 miles long and may or may not have been the site of Antarctica’s first mainland landing in 1821. None of this means anything to me right now. I’m taking my first polar breaths and catching the first polar breezes on my cheeks. I’m awe-struck by the first windswept, snow-covered landscapes of Antarctica.

Sixty seconds elapse before I see a glossy humpback whale leisurely swimming off the ship’s bow. I’m stunned into silence. I’m not alone.

Antarctica is otherworldly

How can one render the vastness and otherworldliness of Antarctica? A photographer can capture it on film, but depth of field limitations are a hindrance. An artist can draw it but is bound by the edges of the canvas. I’m visual by nature, tied permanently to my camera. But try as I might; the only way I can describe it is through sound.

I hear the rhythm of waves propelling and releasing icebergs, whales trumpeting, and wind whistling. I hear the ice cracking, the deafening echo of ice shelves calving, and distant avalanches roaring: the ship keels and creaks.

I close my eyes—humbled and ever-so-slightly afraid. It dawns on me just how far I am from home, my kids, and my husband. At 7am, Abbey’s voice rings across the ship. It’s time to get breakfast and suit up for the Zodiacs.

Antarctica, we have arrived.

Antarctic Travels: A typical day is never typical

“Tern!” shouts Fabrice, with the enthusiasm other guides use when spotting whales. Fabrice is all about the birds. Our Zodiac group looks up in unison to see a snow-white Antarctic Tern glide overhead. It looks like it’s wearing a black cap and red lipstick. Anyone who ignores birds in Antarctica is missing out.

A typical day in Antarctica is never typical. The two daily excursions that await us may be by Zodiac, sea kayak, stand-up paddle, or helicopter. The excursions take anywhere from 2-4 hours, depending upon how sidetracked the guides get chasing spy-hopping whales or a raft of penguins. This leaves little room for downtime. We eat, have coffee, suit up, and get back out on the water. This is not a leisure cruise, mind you.

Above and below the surface of Antarctica

Each of the 136 passengers on the Ultramarine is invited to take a 15-minute heli-flight. Having two helicopters on board is a perk exclusive to the ship. The opportunity to see Antarctica from above is a total thrill. By the end of the expedition, I’ll have racked up multiple vantage points from which I experience it. Above sea level, at sea level, and below sea level. (The below-sea-level experience is fleeting, not to mention numbing.)

One evening, Abbey alerts us to a trio of orcas off the ship’s starboard side. Their dorsal fins and tell-tale black and white torpedo-shaped bodies bring a hush over the crowd. At 10pm, the sun is still high in the sky. A rose-tinted light is cast over the snowy mountain range and is mirrored on the rippling water.

One day, we spot a Weddell Seal dozing on a teetering tabular iceberg. He yawns and scratches his long, dove-gray whiskered face. He raises a fin in acknowledgment. We respond with a hundred continuous SLR clicks. Photoshoot complete, he returns to his nap. Anything can happen in Antarctica, and everyone wants to capture it.

Sea Kayaking, For The Win

Rick and I are two of only sixteen passengers in the sea kayaking program. We sign up for it the day we put down our deposit and count ourselves lucky for having secured a coveted spot. I’m not exaggerating when I say 120 passengers are jealous of us each day we put on our dry suits.

“How different can it be from the Zodiacs?” you may wonder. In a word, very. Kayaks are stealthy, quiet, provide legitimate exercise, and are solo (or tandem) endeavors. In a kayak, we are even closer to the sea, the ice, and the wildlife.

We kayak through small, bergy bits (a technical term I learned from our fearless guides, DT and Sarah) and larger growlers. DT tells us we only see about 10% of an iceberg above the water’s surface. I have an a-ha moment about the idiom, ‘That’s just the tip of the iceberg…’ I’m guessing most people don’t have to go to Antarctica to learn.

Taking our time on our Antarctic Travels

I watch the sun eke its way through dense, gray cloud cover—savoring the landscape while Rick paddles. In case you’re concerned about Rick’s welfare, this arrangement has been pre-organized. Rick paddles and I take pictures. That’s the deal. Plus, he’s an excellent kayaker. He went to sleepaway camp for 30 years.

Despite Camp Chickawah’s tutelage, DT has to adjust Rick’s foot pedals in the middle of the sea. Twice. I channel inner peace and exhale. DT is surprisingly patient—a big Aussie that none of us wants to disappoint. So if DT isn’t in a rush, neither am I. Pedals locked in place, we catch up to the rest of the kayakers.

A sharp breath escapes from a humpback’s blowhole. Before I can blink, the whale is before us, nearly upon us, and then underneath us. One hundred Ultramarine guests on land with binoculars are oozing with jealousy. Anything can happen in Antarctica, as every day continues to prove.

A collection of penguins

I geek out on collective nouns for animals. Don’t judge. For instance, a group of puffins is called a circus, and a group of jaguars is called a shadow. Imagine my delight in learning the collective nouns of penguins! Bear with me, you’ll love this.

The collective nouns of penguins are determined by where they are and what they are doing! Colonies of penguins are the most commonly known term for a group of penguins, but huddles and rookeries are others. Walking penguins are called a ‘waddle’ and swimming penguins are called a ‘raft’. Am I the only one who loves this stuff? Fabrice?

We see three of the four penguins living in Antarctica: Gentoo, Adélie, and Chinstrap. In January, the Emperor Penguins are further inland. I push away my disappointment and enjoy the 100,000 penguins at hand. Or, should I say, at my feet.

The Penguin Highways of Antarctica

Our Zodiac landings allow us to walk alongside and observe these fascinating creatures. Penguins are the only animals on Earth that look cuter as adults than as babies. Our two hours on Danco Island are an introduction to penguin life I’ll never forget. And that’s not only because it smells so bad.

On Danco’s rocky shoreline, Gentoo penguins waddle as far as the eye can see. They build nests by brazenly stealing their neighbor’s rocks. Then, they squawk at the same neighbor who steals the rocks back. They create convenient paths along the steep mountains to waddle up and belly-slide down—penguin highways. Our guides tell us that penguins always have the right of way. No one argues.

Gentoos have orange bills, a white triangular patch on their otherwise black heads, and are inherently curious. We are asked to stay 15 feet from them, but every time I turn around, I find one staring up at me quizzically.

On another penguin landing, we observe (and by observe, I mean take 4000 photos of) the slightly smaller Chinstraps. Chinstraps are defined by a black stripe that runs across their throat. Four million breeding pairs of these feisty little penguins exist throughout the Antarctic. We see most of them.

The Adélie Penguins are the smallest (and cutest!) of the Antarctic penguin species. Adélies have a white ring around their eyes and a mostly feather-covered bill. Nothing sums up cuteness like a waddle of Adélies balancing on a rocking iceberg before they take the polar plunge. There you go—a fine intro to Antarctic penguins. You’re welcome.

Antarctic Travels are about one thing

In Antarctica, it’s all about the wildlife, but it’s also all about the ice and the landscape. Let’s agree that it’s all intertwined. I allow for transcendental moments every day. I’m spoiled by them.

Today, we see a raft of penguins! Today, we watch an enormous ice shelf topple dramatically into the sea! Today, we pass through the narrow Lemaire Passage! Today, we see orcas hunt a humpback! Today I purposely throw myself into the ocean! Antarctica is a world of hyperbole! I can’t use enough exclamation points to make my point!

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The Drake Passage, Part Two

It’s immediately clear our return crossing will not be another Drake Lake. For a start, Abbey announces we’re heading back a ‘touch’ earlier than planned. At dinner, plates rattle, and waiters weave around unstable guests. There are far fewer diners in the restaurant than usual—a telling sign.

Despite deteriorating conditions, those who can party on. We have drinks at the bar and eventually head off to count Gentoo penguins in our sleep. Throughout the night, the waves and wind increase in severity.

By 9am, it’s obvious we’re in for a wild ride. I’m struggling a little to get to the Panorama Lounge for a much-needed shot of caffeine when Abbey pipes up over the PA system. “For everyone’s safety, we will be on cabin lockdown for the next ten hours. But fear not, all is well!”, she says energetically. “Room service will be coming around shortly.”

Satisfied with my marching orders, I get into my cushy robe and enjoy a movie marathon that involves a Sir Edmund Hillary documentary (but I hate history, Ross!) and The Life Of Pi. I look out the window at what I later learn are 30-foot waves. The wind strength moves the needle to 11 on the Beaufort Wind Scale. A scale that maxes out at (what I also later learned) is 12. We are one notch shy of hurricane-strength winds. In Antarctica, anything can happen. I remind myself that this is what I signed up for. I hope Rick did, too.

Surviving The Drake Shake

Do some passengers despise the passage? Definitely. Do some get sick? Ummmm yes. But do we all agree it’s a right of (Drake) passage? Well, I haven’t taken a formal poll, but yes, let’s agree!

Eventually, we round Cape Horn and the waters still. We’re allowed to leave the cabins. Feeling like released hostages, we toast the sea gods (yet again) and behave like we’ve weathered something big.

Indeed, we have.

Processing Antarctica

I visit my sister a few days after my Antarctic travels. When I wake up at 630am, it’s still dark outside. The sun slowly rises as I head north. Puffy clouds in the distance take me back to the whipped cream peaks of Antarctica. The currents beneath the Delaware Memorial Bridge remind me of kayaking with Rick.

I see a bird swoop overhead and think, “Tern!” channeling my inner Fabrice. But alas, it’s a turkey vulture circling roadkill over the NJ Turnpike.

Over the next two hours, my mind processes the vast, otherwordly continent I left behind. I recall the passengers I befriended and the crew from whom I learned so much. I think of the sky, mountains, and sea. The seals and penguins.

And, of course, the whales.

I’m home. Far from the most extreme place on Earth, but brimming with endless reminders of an awe-inspiring journey. In Antarctica, anything can happen. And that’s fine with me.

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December 15, 2023
Hacienda AltaGracia in Costa Rica is the best choice for wellness
Hacienda AltaGracia is the Costa Rican wellness resort everyone is talking about. Never-ending choices of activities and treatments to nourish mind and body in a tropical, fairy-tale setting. THE WELL, Hacienda AltaGracia’s spa, is a sanctuary within a sanctuary. Good luck choosing between wellness experiences, off-property excursions, where to eat, what to eat, or where to lounge.

There are more than enough choices at Hacienda AltaGracia, an Auberge Resort. There just isn’t enough time.

Our twin-engine Cessna glides over the mountainous interior of Costa Rica. It’s 6am. The sun is skimming the tree tops, and a misty translucent glow is rising above them. Clouds are weaving in and out of view. The deafening roar of the engines makes conversation impossible, so my friend and I sit back and soak up the verdant landscape. Thirty minutes later, our plane dips over the Talamanca Mountains toward our destination—a grassy airstrip at the base of Costa Rica’s newest wellness resort, Hacienda AltaGracia.
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Wellness is always trending at Hacienda AltaGracia

Wellness was once a word synonymous with woo-woo. Is it still? These days, I dare you to find a resort that doesn’t have ‘wellness’ listed in its menu bar. Not just for Los Angelenos anymore, wellness is for everyone. Why shouldn’t it be? Taking care of ourselves from the inside out feels good. There are far worse things trending these days. I have teenagers, bad trends appear in my house daily.

Lisa and I are heading to the mother of all wellness resorts—THE WELL in Costa Rica at Hacienda AltaGracia.

THE WELL, Costa Rica

We’ve come to Hacienda AltaGracia exclusively for THE WELL, one of the most recently opened spas to take on wellness and well-being. In addition to this Costa Rica location, THE WELL has multiple locations in Auberge Resorts around the world, including a stand-alone spa in New York City.

THE WELL is known for combining Eastern and Western healing practices, meditation, body treatments, and holistic treatments. It’s quickly becoming one of the world’s most sought-after wellness experiences. Hacienda AltaGracia opened in November 2021 and is leading the wellness way in Costa Rica.

Perched at the highest point of Hacienda AltaGracia’s 180 lush, tropical acres, THE WELL encompasses over 20,000 square feet of naturally lit space. It’s jaw-dropping. I made a point to watch guests enter it for the first time and count gasps. Everyone gasped. Some gasped twice. It’s that impressive.

THE WELL overlooks the Talamanca mountains, a range that contains both Costa Rica and Panama’s highest peaks. Architecturally, the setting not only exudes calm and serenity but intentionally seeks to bring the outdoors in.

Three oversized windowed walls surround an oversized tranquility pool that always mirrors the sky. Two symmetrical square hot tubs flank the pool. This double-tub feature erases the awkwardness of having to make polite hot tub chit-chat with a stranger. I’m a self-proclaimed chit-chatter. But I have two firm exceptions: airplanes and hot tubs.

What exactly does one do at THE WELL?

At the risk of exceeding my self-imposed 2500-word limit, allow me to list some of the many treatments available at THE WELL, Costa Rica. I didn’t have time to partake in all of these treatments, mind you. Even if I did, I wouldn’t have enough money left to cover my cable bill. (That said, many services and treatments are included in the room rate. Yes, that’s 100% true!)

WELL, WELL, WELL

• Join a visiting master for a guided meditation or a breathing session. Book a one-on-one session later to deep dive into your past life or refine your breathing technique.

• Try botanical yoga.

• Connect with your senses by taking a forest and crystal bath (that’s not a typo). Hacienda AltaGracia has a 700-pound crystal quartz on the property where guests can partake in an integrative energy healing session.

• Find a spot on a warm marble slab and take an ethereal lunar gong bath. Later, head back to the spa for a sunset swim or aromatherapy steam.

• Opt for traditional spa treatments: Swedish massage, hot-stone therapy, or cranial massage, for example.

• Push outside of your comfort zone with less-common treatments: Maderoterapia or Wood Therapy is a traditional Central American practice. Or Hierbas y Flores, a nature-infused experience that incorporates native flowers and massage.

This list is by no means complete. Nor, do you have to sign up for any treatments in order to enjoy THE WELL. I spent time there with a book on a lounge chair trying to read. Unfortunately, I was constantly distracted by the surroundings and found myself over-posting on Instagram. This did defeat the concept of relaxation a wee bit. Anything for my followers!

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THE WELL has more choices than my cleansed mind can compute. Would I like a light, medium, or heavy cotton waffle robe from The Robe Bar? Would I like my custom clay body mask mixed with parsley, sage, rosemary, or thyme? Choice—the wellness luxury that just might ruin my wellness experience. Once I accept that there are only good choices, I calm down.

Beyond THE WELL at Hacienda AltaGracia

Wellness is not limited to treatments at Hacienda AltaGracia. Wellness is slow-cooked oat and quinoa porridge with local honeycomb, berries, and cocoa nibs while watching a charm of hummingbirds. It’s self-guided yoga on our expansive villa deck, listening to frogs croak. Wellness is my morning green juice from Mercado and my evening cocktail at the bar.

Since this is Lisa’s second visit to Hacienda AltaGracia, she takes over the trip’s itinerary. As much as I love to plan, having someone whose travel sensibilities I trust to do it for me is a welcome change. (For the record, I trust my husband’s travel spidey-sense too—in case he reads this and feels slighted.)

A Bath upon Arrival

After landing, we head directly to Mercado—the most non-lobby resort lobby I’ve yet to see. Mercado is part of a highly curated boutique and part of the Friends-style Central Perk. The café has homemade pastries, specialty coffee, juices, quiche, and other baked goods available all day at no cost. Lisa discovers her love of sparkling espresso while I devour cookies like a greedy toddler.

We are gently whisked from Mercado to one of the property’s signature treatments: The River Bath, an immersive outdoor nature-filled experience. An overgrown flower-filled path leads to a warm stone-edged plunge pool beside a cool stone-edged river. Over two hours, we toggle back and forth between the two, looking to cleanse our auras as the treatment advertises. Butterflies surround us. We slot into their habitat with ease.

Wellness, as a travel trend, isn’t limited to people who are fully invested in mindfulness and meditation. It’s good old-fashioned well-being. Resorts like Hacienda AltaGracia appeal to everyone from yogi masters to once-a-year meditators. How you spend time at this tropical Costa Rica wellness resort is your choice. And choices abound.

Over four days, Lisa and I find that critical balance of physical activity, mindfulness, and relaxation. Oh, and eating. That activity is not quite as balanced as the others. At Hacienda AltaGracia, all food is included in the room rate, so we choose to consume everything the menus offer. Cold-marinated Pacific prawns or prawn-filled blue corn tortillas? Both, please. And throw in an order of tuna tiradito, pan-fried line fish, and beef empanadas, if you don’t mind. They don’t mind.

Difficult choices at Hacienda AltaGracia

There are multiple places to dine and drink throughout the property. Grano is the main restaurant with both indoor and outdoor options that are equally inviting. El Cultivo, just beside Grano, is Hacienda AltaGracia’s organic garden. Lunch is served at Las Brisas, one of two open-air poolside restaurants. The food is healthy, but not the tasteless calorie-limited kind of healthy generally associated with spa trips.

I can anticipate the next question. Yes, they serve alcohol at Hacienda AltaGracia! I say this for those who hear the words ‘wellness resort’ and assume they’ll have to smuggle in alcohol.

Wait, you’ve never done that? Me neither.

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For horse lovers only

I’ve never been a horse person. But Hacienda AltaGracia has quite a set-up for those who are. If you don’t like horses, skip ahead. I don’t mind.

Hacienda AltaGracia’s traditional horse show and dinner, Cienfuegos, is an ongoing event at their modern-designed stables. The 42 Peruvian, Spanish, and Costa Rican horses are living their best lives, and they look like they know it.

Lanterns and fire pits are among the sole sources of light. A band of musicians performs low-key background music. After an hour of cocktails and polite chit-chat (a totally acceptable time for chit-chat) at the immaculate stables, we enter the barn and are seated communally for a family-style dinner. Roasted meats, salads, and veggies prepared Costa Rican style keep us satiated. Wine is poured, and the horse show begins.

The riders entertain the crowd with their control of prancing horses. The atmosphere gets livelier with each round of performances (enhanced by each round of drinks). It’s a festive peek into Costa Rican equestrian tradition. Afterward, we take a golf cart back to the villa to dream of horses. Not me, mind you, but I’m sure many people did.

It sounds cheesy, right? But it’s actually totally fun and festive.

Early Mornings at Hacienda AltaGracia

Lisa organized two super early off-property activities so that we could eat the rest of the day without guilt. I despise early wake-ups. Lisa loves them. It’s surprising we are friends. That said, once I was up (and caffeinated), my anger disappeared. Almost.

Rising before the sun has its pluses. Like seeing the sunrise, for one! Another is the early morning sounds and stillness of nature. One morning we take a 7-mile hike to Roca de Nubes and spot a troop of elusive spider monkeys. Wildlife—another plus of early rising.

The following day we hike to a series of three gushing waterfalls. Our guide asks us to choose (again with the choices!) which one we’d like to swim beneath. The answer for me is none. I may have taken the polar plunge in Antarctica earlier this year, but take my word on this, the water in Costa Rica is much colder. Lisa fully embraces the invigorating experience while I merely dip my toes like the water wimp that I am.

Welcome to the jungle

I take a look around. The landscape around Hacienda AltaGracia is rich in texture. Layers upon layers of prehistorically oversized leaves with stencil-like cutouts, palms, ferns, and fruit-filled banana trees. Dramatic low-hanging clouds drape the Talamanca mountains in the distance. Swallow-tailed Kites soar. As the sun descends, the vegetation takes on a warm hue. What was initially shades of green now appear orange, yellow, and red.

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Villa Life at Hacienda AltaGracia

Hacienda AltaGracia’s 50 villas are built into the Costa Rican jungle—seemingly absorbed by it. This makes it feel like a private, remote hideaway. The property is so lovingly nestled in the jungle that the wildlife doesn’t even seem to notice. Hawks swoop overhead and kaleidoscopic-colored butterflies swirl around us.

Our villa’s veranda has a heated plunge pool that overlooks mountainous layers in the distance. Because Lisa wakes up at 4am she always gets to the daybed first. I forgive her.

The living space is lounge-y and inviting, with stacked coffee table books, cushy throws, binoculars, and birding books for bird nerds like me. It has a walk-in closet larger than my first apartment in NYC and a full bar for us to pour drinks as needed. Heated water bottles magically appear tucked under the covers of the beds each evening. If the villa is designed to keep us there, we fail miserably. There is just too much to do.

At Hacienda AltaGracia, it’s your vacation, your choice

On our last night, we have drinks on Grano’s patio with Valerie, one of the visiting wellness masters. Her inherent sense of humor and lightness takes the edge off the woo-woo. We gather around the fire pit at sunset for a release-burning ceremony.

It’s an opportunity to rid ourselves of ‘something that no longer serves us’ by throwing a personal note into the flames. A few husbands attempt to escape, but Valerie lures them back. One by one we throw our paper into the fire and watch it burn. With clear minds and empty stomachs, we head in for dinner.

You don’t have to be a life coach, herbalist, spiritual influencer, or accomplished sound bather in order to have a restorative experience at Hacienda AltaGracia. Everyone can use a few days to reset, recharge, and reload. Whatever your vacation is calling for, there are opportunities to fulfill it at Hacienda AltaGracia. The choices are annoyingly endless.

Well-being and wellness go hand in hand. I can’t think of a better trend to embrace. And you need not go to a luxurious tropical jungle resort in the heart of Costa Rica to do it.

But should you have the choice, it’s certainly a lot more fun.

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October 5, 2023
5 Travel Wish List Destinations That Will Inspire

I am Lost and Found’s original tagline was ‘Luxury Travel.’ Over the years my travel tastes evolved and ‘luxury travel’ felt limiting. Plus, I wasn’t only traveling to luxury hotels anymore. So I changed it to ‘Adventure and Luxury Travel.’ Eventually, even that felt limiting. I thought about the goals of my site. I am Lost and Found inspires travel—so ‘Inspiring Travel’ it is. Ready for inspiration? Follow along for five travel wish list destinations I’m dreaming about right now.

It’s another sticky, steamy day in DC. I should be doing something productive. Instead, I’m at my local coffee shop sipping an iced latte and daydreaming about future travels. I spin the globe in my mind. Green continents and blue oceans swirl together like a Van Gogh immersion experience. It takes my attention away from today’s news where most of the world is covered in a sheath of orange and red.

I pause over Norway—an appealing place right now for obvious reasons. Breathing crisp, cool, Arctic air sounds blissful. I take another sip of coffee and add it to my travel wish list, suddenly energized to write.

I keep spinning the globe. The next few hours unfold easily.

Join me as I waste time. Time that could be spent figuring out the dinner my kids will complain about least or watching the next intestine-twisting episode of The Bear. Read along for the next installment of my top five travel wish list destinations. Lord knows my husband will regret he didn’t join me this morning. This post is going to cost him.

Travel Wish List: 5 / Manshausen Island, Norway

A telling indicator a place belongs on my travel wish list is when I can’t contain my emotions after discovering it. Those times I frantically fire off picturesque screen grabs to my husband, Daniel, and impatiently wait for a thumbs-up emoji—eager to book it before he can blink. This is exactly how I feel when I look at Manshausen Island’s website. Obsessed.

Manshausen’s seven modern sea cabins and two sea towers hover over the water. Glass windows take full advantage of the spectacular views. It’s easy to see why the sea cabins have won so many design awards. They’ve adopted a ‘compact living’ mentality, focusing on comfort and ‘calm minimalism’. I’ve never heard of calm minimalism but I’d love to book a one-way ticket there and never look back.

Where is Manshausen Island?

Manshausen is a 55-acre island off the coast of northern Norway, across the fjord of the Lofoten Islands. In the late 1600s, Manhausen was a trading post. Today, it’s owned by famous polar explorer, writer, and photographer, Børge Ousland who turned Manshausen into one of the world’s best-kept secret adventure destinations.

I deep dive into Børge Ousland’s Wikipedia page. Ousland began his career as a Norwegian Special Forces Officer. In 1994, he made the first unsupported trek to the North Pole from Russia’s Arctic Cape. Then, as if that wasn’t bad-ass enough, in 1996 Børge Ousland was the first person to cross Antarctica solo. That he did it unsupported, on skis, and over 58 days makes my head spin like the globe I was daydreaming about earlier. Oh, and then he got married at the North Pole in 2012. Ok, Børge, simmer.

What to do on Manshausen Island?

Some activities on Manshausen Island abide by the seasons while others are enjoyed year-round. Sea kayaking, fishing, trekking, mountain climbing, traversing, cave touring, and eagle spotting are just a few of the Nordic adventures on hand. Add on wellness and culinary programs that touch upon all of the senses and it’s pretty clear why this island north of the Arctic Circle is so captivating.

Børge Ousland notwithstanding, visitors don’t need to be polar explorers or Special Ops to fall for Manshausen. Coastal museums, fortresses, fishing villages, and the original 1690 trading post are travel-worthy attractions nearby. Personally, I’d be content sitting at my panoramic sea cabin window with a cozy blanket, the latest Ann Patchett novel, and a glass of wine.

USP (Unique Selling Point) #1: The Northern Lights in the winter or the midnight sun in the summer? How to choose when to visit this Arctic escape from reality? Manshausen Island will just have to count as two travel wish list destinations. Do I see another thumbs-up, Daniel?

USP #2: Børge Ousland.

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Travel Wish List: 4 / Katmai National Park, Alaska

I count eight brown bears wading in the current. I see two bear cubs lumbering over slick boulders, pawing one another like feisty toddlers. A gull swoops overhead catching the attention of mama bear, who is competing with another bear for a fishing spot. The gulls’ caws, the gurgling river, and the steady gush of waterfalls are the only discernable sounds.

I’m not at Katmai National Park, but oh how I wish I was. Instead, I’m one of 2393 wildlife ~~geeks~~ enthusiasts simultaneously viewing Alaskan brown bears on the Brooks Falls bear cam. I’ve been watching them for longer than you’d imagine possible and have even started giving names to my faves.

Where is Katmai National Park?

Located on the Alaskan peninsula across from Kodiak Island, Katmai National Park and Preserve is 300 miles south of Anchorage. Katmai was designated a national monument in 1918 in order to protect it after a volcanic eruption in 1912. The area, 18 volcanoes strong (seven active), is also known as the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Whoever’s in charge of Katmai’s branding deserves a raise. I’d visit based on the name of that valley alone.

What to do at Katmai National Park?

The bears are the main attraction in this incredibly remote and untamed part of the American wilderness. That’s why I want to go. I want a front-row seat to see Yogi, Baloo, and Teddy catch sockeye salmon in real-time. The grainy webcam footage, while highly addictive, just isn’t cutting it.

Katmai is one of the top ten least visited national parks in the United States with just under 25,000 tourists last year. Compare that to Yellowstone’s 3 million and I’ve easily uncovered another great reason to visit.

The park is home to more than 2000 Alaskan brown bears. Grizzlies are the smaller species of brown bears and live further inland. If bears aren’t your thing, feel free to move on to my next travel wish list entry. But, if bears aren’t your thing, we should reconsider our friendship. Just kidding, I have lots of friends who don’t like bears.

Flightseeing, boating, catch-and-release fishing, backcountry hiking, and camping make Katmai National Park a haven for adventure seekers. There aren’t enough luxury hotel products on Earth to get me to camp in the backcountry though. That’s where the grizzlies are! My adventure mindset has limits.

USP: Grizzly bears, Alaskan brown bears, bear cubs, bears catching sockeye salmon, bears swimming, bears frolicking beneath waterfalls, Yogi, Baloo, and Teddy…

Travel Wish List: 3 / Wildflower Farms, New York

Built in 2022, Wildflower Farms is a modern ode to the Hudson Valley. Its tranquil and serene landscape seems to have sprouted up like the wildflowers for which it is named. An all-season boutique property, Wildflower Farms has an epicurean program that celebrates the region and a wellness program that celebrates healthy living. It’s clear there is much to celebrate at Wildflower Farms.

Where is Wildflower Farms?

Those who hail from the East Coast will have likely heard of the Hudson Valley. Just 90 miles north of New York City, the Hudson Valley is so renowned for natural beauty, it inspired an artistic movement. In the 19th century, the Hudson River School was founded by Thomas Cole and other landscape artists who were influenced by Romanticism.

The Hudson River School’s realistic paintings depict a pastoral world where humans and nature coexist in harmony. A romantic notion indeed! With 65 free-standing cabins and cottages set on 140 secluded acres, Wildflower Farms, an Auberge property, artfully continues the movement’s philosophy of awe and wonder.

What to do at Wildflower Farms?

The valley’s Hudson School may have been heavily influenced by romance but Wildflower Farms appeals to both couples and families alike. There are so many activities I want to take part in I’m considering asking if I can be a summer intern. Fall intern? Carrot peeler?

I can tell that a weekend at Wildflower Farms won’t be enough time for me to express my inner artist. Do I take a class in Botanical Mixology or Botanical Baking? Should I make pressed flower pottery or bake floral focaccia?

How do I choose the best ways to activate my sporty side (yes, Daniel, I have a sporty side)? Do I fly fish or forage, e-bike, or wine taste? Wine tasting is a sport, right? I scan the wellness menu. What if I can’t fit in Mountain Mat Pilates or a Sound Bath? Champagne problems at Wildflower Farms abound.

USP: Ridge Suites have views of the Shawangunk Mountain Range interrupted only by fields of wildflowers. We can either climb the rugged Shawangunks, admire them from the suite’s floor-to-ceiling windows, or grab a brush and start painting. Given enough time, I would happily do all three.

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Travel Wish List: 2 / ULUM Moab, Utah

Some of our favorite vacations have been to national parks located in desert locations: Joshua Tree, Canyonlands, and Arches, among them. We’ve stayed at AirBNBs, rustic lodges, and super swanky hotels. But glamping at ULUM Moab is a class of accommodation all its own.

For anyone not familiar with glamping, it means ‘glamourous camping’, a term open to wide interpretation. I’ve glamped in places that were a far cry from the ‘glamour’ advertised. ULUM Moab appears to have found the sweet spot for adventure and luxury to coexist.

Its 50 safari-styled tent suites have private viewing decks. There are three dipping pools, a yoga deck, and modern common spaces that embrace indoor/outdoor life. Add in Parachute Linens, Aesop products, and bespoke Pendleton wool blankets, and this glamping destination offers better amenities than most traditional hotels.

Where is ULUM Moab?

Located 25 miles south of Moab and within reach of multiple national and state parks, ULUM Moab is a secluded desert paradise. The camp is set on 200 acres of red rock formations and mesas and is just steps from Looking Glass Arch. ULUM Moab is the ultimate introduction to the beauty of the American Southwest.

What to do at ULUM Moab?

On-site activities at ULUM Moab range from relaxing guided nature walks, sound bath meditations, yoga, and stargazing. Your Adventure Concierge (yes, that’s a thing) will help curate off-site excursions like white-water river rafting, kayaking, paddleboarding, National Park tours, and canyoneering. If you haven’t canyoneered, you haven’t lived. It’s one of the funnest activities of all time (and yes, I’m aware funnest isn’t a real word).

At night, as you prepare to stargaze, sit by the bonfire and make polite chit-chat with other like-minded adventurers. Swap stories about the slot canyons you discovered while canyoneering or how you snored through the sound bath. Then grab your Pendleton blanket, a bottle of wine, and settle into the dark skies and constellations above.

USP: With 360 mountain views by day and starry skies by night, ULUM Moab has perfected glamping—the ultimate way to get comfortable in nature.

Travel Wish List: 1 / Dolomites, Italy

The last time my insides physically ached from witnessing natural beauty was a few summers ago in Jackson, Wyoming. The Tetons were so striking, so unbelievably scenic in their razor-cut jaggedness, that I was compelled to photograph them for hours each day. By day three, my husband wanted to feed me to the bears. If the Italian Dolomites are making my insides ache just from my Instagram feed, I can’t imagine what would happen if I saw them in real life.

Where are the Dolomites?

The Dolomites are a mountain range in northeastern Italy. They are sometimes referred to as the ‘Pale Mountains’ due to the carbonate minerals in the rocks. In 2009, they were officially named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Dolomites have been around for millennia. Why it took so long for UNESCO to recognize them is a mystery.

The Dolomites boast some of the most unique and beautiful hotels in the world. Many of them have won awards for design and architecture. The hotels are so swoon-worthy, I wouldn’t know how to choose one without having FOMO about the others.

What to do in the Dolomites?

While renowned for winter skiing, there is much to do in the Dolomites in the summer months, too. This mesmerizing mountain range is the center of the region’s universe. It’s where the luckiest hotels face and the point from which many adventure activities revolve.

Some of the hotels in the Dolomites defy gravity, like the ultra-modern Alpin Panorama Hotel Hubertus. Others, like Forestis, have mountain-facing private pools that make it impossible to leave the room. Aman’s Rosa Alpina (soon to reopen) embraces traditional alpine architecture and has a restaurant with three Michelin stars.

Climbing, hiking, waterfall chasing, rafting, and mountain biking will appease those with an adventurous spirit. Wellness retreats, spas, and woodland walks will satisfy those looking to reset and recharge.

USP: With over 20 Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, the Dolomites are a wish list destination for foodies, too.

Wasting Time

It’s hot in DC, and just about everywhere else in the world right now. I’m sure the oppressive heat has much to do with how these travel wish list destinations came about. Fresh, crisp, mountain air, fields of wildflowers, calm desert-scapes, and bear-filled streams are all pretty enticing right now.

I imagine myself sitting here next January—cupping my latte, complaining about the cold, and daydreaming about warmer climes. I’ll once again spin the globe in my mind, excited to see where I land, and ready to write another batch of travel wish list destinations.

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Author’s Note: I am grateful to the hotels who kindly gave me high-res photos for use in this post. I’m also using Unsplash for the first time, and praise the photographers who are giving away their gorgeous photos for free. Typically, I only feature my own photos. But alas, if I had my own pictures of these wish list destinations, they wouldn’t be on my wish list.

July 30, 2023
Enchanted. Why Mii Amo is the best Sedona spa.

Mother/Daughter Adventures at the Best Sedona Spa

Air is air. Of course, it can be humid, dry, or wet. It can be conditioned or heated, still or sticky—the adjectives are endless. When I visited the Mii Amo spa in Sedona, I looked for words to describe the air. How did it feel? Neither crisp, nor brisk, nor thin, nor heavy. Then, it dawned on me. I wasn’t feeling anything. The air was imperceptible.

The beauty of not noticing the air is that my other senses are on much higher alert. Sounds become more pronounced, and colors more intense. Brilliant mesas and red rocks define the landscape of Sedona, which is about an hour-long drive from Scottsdale.

Along the drive to our Sedona resort and spa, Southern Arizona’s ubiquitous pale green Saguaro cacti were replaced by other shades of green. Prickly Pear cacti, cypress, sycamore, pine, and juniper trees took over the landscape. It was an arboreal introduction to the Sonoran Desert—our destination for the next few days—a Sedona spa tucked away in the desert wilderness.

Spa-bound, in Sedona

My mom, sister, and I were headed to Mii Amo, a resort and spa part of The Enchantment Resort in Sedona, Arizona. This gorgeous Sedona spa was awarded the #1 Best Destination Spa in the US for the second year in a row by Travel + Leisure Magazine. This coveted spa experience has the added luxury of being situated in one of the most alluring spots in the United States.

The famous ‘Red Rocks’ of Sedona surround Mii Amo. The resort and spa sit at an altitude of 4500 feet and are low in profile—nearly hidden in the Upper Sonoran Desert. It’s as if Arizona gave every architect in Sedona the same Benjamin Moore paint chips and said, ‘Please conform to the colors of the desert.’

Sedona’s Color and Light

Burnt reds, persimmons, ochres, and every shade of warmth in between live in Sedona, Arizona. But what makes the desert even more interesting are the clusters of unexpected and brazen greens. Sedona’s Verde Valley, or Green Valley, is named after the copper that was once mined in the area. The bold greens are a spectacular addition— an unanticipated contrast to the sun-lit rocks throughout the day.

The canyon walls are hundreds of millions of years of age. And comprised of nine staggering layers of stone. The receding oceans created the canyons. The result? Rock formations are a natural, visual wonderland. You need not be a geologist to appreciate the striations and layers of color and rock on museum-like display. Limestone, sandstone, and mud, among other elements, have made this piece of Arizona a literal hot spot.

As the light and shadows changed, I prepared to see something new emerge every hour. The mountain views never disappoint, whether with partly cloudy skies, cloudy skies, or full sun.

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Sedona’s Vistas, views, and Vortexes

Mii Amo means ‘one’s path or journey’. Feeling grateful to be guests at the best spa in Sedona, we decided to get started on that journey right away. My sister and I hiked to Vista Point around 6pm on our first evening in Sedona.

As an added convenience, guests can access many hiking paths from the property itself. The sun was already dipping towards the west. And our short hike to the viewpoint took about 20 minutes via a well-beaten red dirt path. We were told to look for a tree hugging itself,’ as that was a known vortex site. Upon reaching the point, however, it looked like every gnarled and twisted juniper was hugging itself.

The entire area is thought to be a vortex. A vortex is a swirling center of energy that many believe has healing and spiritual powers. Not one to deny an area of its spiritual power, I sat against a rock and decided to channel some positive energy.

Piles of delicate toppling rock cairns dotted the point, each one quietly declaring, ‘I was here!’. The silence was all-encompassing—a drastic change from my daily life in DC.

Desert Life at Sedona’s Best Spa

The setting sun was piercing and lit the upper third of the mountain range on fire. Whether or not one believes in the healing powers of the vortexes (or vortices, as I’ve recently learned), it was impossible not to feel inspired and restored there— the views were unparalleled.

I enjoyed it so much that I returned each day at different times. Once, I ventured out as early as 5am to catch sight of the hot air balloons that hovered over the distant mesa.

I was on high alert, ready to walk into a herd (aka squadron) of wild javelinas as I had done with my sister on our first hike. Rodent or pig? Neither, surprisingly. They are just strange 60-pound hairy mammals that roam the area.

I was reminded of the ROUS (Rodents Of Unusual Size) from the film The Princess Bride. Luckily, javelinas aren’t smart and have poor eyesight. Needless to say, I made it back to the resort unharmed.

Despite that encounter, my sister and I returned the next day. This time, our efforts were rewarded by finding a solo flutist upon a tall red rock. We were told he plays there often. However, we counted ourselves lucky to catch a performance. His ethereal music caught the wind and soared across the valley. It was mesmerizing.

Coffee Pot and other rocks around Sedona

Another day, we hired a local guide, an Apache Native American, and explored for a few hours. He was a proud man, a bit gruff, but very knowledgeable about the area.

From George, we learned to differentiate between the Prickly Pear and Agave plants. We learned how to loosen the nut from the cone of a pinola tree. And the different mating calls of the male quail. Our three-mile hike brought us past Coffee Pot and other luminous rock formations. We paused at an ancient birthing place and reflected on the size of the canyons around us.

A Peek Inside The Best Spa In Sedona

Sixteen casitas, some with hot tubs and indoor and outdoor fireplaces, are offered at Mii Amo. There’s a small juice bar, a café, a boutique, indoor/outdoor pools, and a gym. And, of course, the highly-regarded spa treatment area. The spa experience at Mii Amo is small and intimate. While the spa is only a short walk from Enchantment (its larger, family-friendly sibling), this Sedona spa feels a world away.

The rooms were clean and modern but felt dated and needed a facelift. Soon, a complete overhaul is expected to be revealed. Watch this space.

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Spa food reframed

The food at the café exceeded our expectations. For me, the inherent nature of ‘spa food’ has been synonymous with being tasteless. I was proven wrong at Mii Amo. Unsurprisingly, the best spa in Sedona would also have the best spa food.

Spinach, mushroom, and tomato frittatas. Almond chickpea pancakes with lemon ricotta, berries, and prickly pear syrup. Welcome to breakfast! A hearty but healthy way to get my day started. While caffeine and alcohol might be against the rules for some spas, they were readily available to the spa-goers of Mii Amo. I am not one of those people who can start my day without a kick of caffeine. Thank you, Mii Amo.

At This Sedona Spa, Three’s a charm

The front entrance of Mii Amo’s resort and spa is dramatic, with massive rock formations looming above. There is a shaded area of trees that are teeming with hummingbird activity. Attracted by the hanging feeders, I was told that at any given time of day, I would see at least a ‘charm’ of hummingbirds jostling for nectar.

Just a few steps beyond the entry, the Crystal Grotto is a small, cave-like room with a round opening to the sky. Here, one can sit peacefully in thought or be led in meditation by a guide.

Wanting to take advantage of the enchanting Sedona vibes, I went in a few times to enjoy the comforting sound of running water. Anytime I could find a moment of restoration or calm I was up for it, this was part of the reason I was here, after all.

The Sedona Spa: Juice life

At Mii Amo, our hardest daily decision was deciding which smoothie or juice to try. A rough life in the desert, for sure! My favorites were the Maca Smoothie (banana, almond butter, maca powder) and Renew Juice (rhubarb, strawberry, lime). A hint of jasmine permeated the air. And low enough to barely register was the sound of ethereal spa music.

The pool staff remembered our names and our favorite juices. They even reserved the loungers we preferred from the previous day. One especially thoughtful staff member made us feel like he’d known us for years. It was an impressive point of differentiation in the ever-demanding one-upmanship of the resort and spa industry.

The Best Spa In Sedona Exceeds Expectations

Depending upon your perspective, the variety of spa treatments and spa experiences at Mii Amo ranged from traditional to off-the-wall. I experimented with less traditional treatments like ‘Energy Clearing’ and ‘Past-Life Regression.’ I also tried several spa experience staples like a Shiatsu Massage and a Clay Wrap.

Our three-day package included six spa treatments during our stay (two 90-minute and four 60-minute). Sitting in the spa’s waiting room, we would meet people from all over the country. Many had been to Mii Amo more than once, and quite a few from Europe and beyond.

The spa staff had a warmth and genuine love of their craft. Each spa treatment opened my mind to new ways of seeing and listening. And each was as relaxing as I’d hoped. My mom, sister, and I all agreed that the spa treatments were restorative in multiple ways. Ways that I wish I could reproduce in my ‘real life.’

Experience the ethereal side of Sedona with this hidden gem: A Spiritual Vortex Tour

Beyond Mii Amo

After three days at the spa, we spent a few nights at the neighboring Enchantment Resort. We sat by the pool, enjoyed the spectacular views, and headed off-property for some sightseeing.

One highlight was the Chapel of the Holy Cross. An earth-toned and delicate chapel that looks as if it is hovering on the edge of a butte. Inspired by the Empire State Building in the 1930s, it was finally completed in 1957. Picturesque from every angle, the central cross of the chapel’s exterior dives directly into the red rocks.

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The best places to dine in Sedona

We chose our one dinner away from Enchantment with care. A friend had recommended Mariposa. We were lucky to get a coveted reservation on the patio at sunset.

The views and setting were magical, with fire-lit iron globes flanking the entrance. Many diners left their tables mid-meal (me included) to capture the colors in the sky. From what I remember, the food was good, but not the main reason for heading to Mariposa. That said, I would head back any day to watch the sky perform.

While we only had one dinner beyond Mii Amo’s sacred grounds, many other places in Sedona will wow visitors with views and fabulous food. Cress on Oak Creek is in the luxurious hotel Auberge de Sedona. Whether one chooses to dine inside or out, the creekside views are ever-romantic.

Elote is an award-winning modern Mexican restaurant that gets accolades from tourists and locals alike. With locally sourced ingredients and a lively atmosphere, Elote is a must-eat spot while visiting Sedona. Don’t miss the divine corn bisque, a menu highlight.

Tortas de Fuego is a brightly-lit Mexican eatery that specializes in (you know it, tortas). Also known for its burritos and nachos, no one will go home hungry after a meal in one of Sedona’s most popular jaunts.

One last hike at Sedona’s best spa

On my final morning, I took one last vista hike and decided to head out without a camera. I was afraid I would regret not having the chance to capture something that had eluded me before. For almost an hour, I sat in the shade, watching the sun creep along the edge of the rock formations. Was the light creating the character of the mountains or simply revealing it? Without the distraction of a camera, I was fully present in nature and lost in thought.

I’m not sure why I’m surprised that I was less distracted looking at the mountains with my eyes vs through a lens. But it was one of my favorite moments of the trip.

A few days after returning home from Sedona, I was listening to a podcast by Elizabeth Gilbert, the author of Eat, Pray Love. She confessed, “I prefer to live in an enchanted world.” A world where even the air is enchanted?

Well said, Ms. Gilbert. I’m right there with you.

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Author’s Note: The spa at Mii Amo re-opened after a full renovation. It looks spectacular. I am hoping to go next year.

July 10, 2023
Amangiri is the hideaway hidden in plain sight

Amangiri is one of the most luxurious resorts in the world. Amangiri has won awards for its spectacular pool, its desert location, and over-the-top excursions. Read on for a sneak peek into Utah’s decadent resort, Amangiri. Discover if a vacation in the Utah desert is right for you.

What’s Aman?

Years ago, when we lived in Tokyo, I remember a dinner party where we met a woman named Fang. She’d been an ex-pat in Japan for years. We were fresh off the proverbial boat, trying to make sense of a new and foreign life. After she casually mentioned an upcoming trip to Aman in Indonesia, we innocently asked, “What’s Aman?”. Cue sardonic laughter, followed by a cryptic smile that implied, ‘If you have to ask, maybe you are at the wrong dinner party’. Fast forward a decade. We have since learned about the inherent draw of Aman and Amangiri, a luxurious oasis hidden in the Utah desert.

The Aman group of resorts is scattered across the globe. They define a niche of low-key, high-end luxury, unlike much of what is out there, which tends to be either one or the other. Typically, in far-flung, remote, and unique destinations, they almost always sit discreetly in their environments. For instance, Amansara, in Cambodia, was the former guest villa of the country’s King Sihanouk.

Many Aman hotels don’t have a signed entrance, making them challenging to find. They rarely, if ever, have a lobby, bellboys, or a front desk. Founded by Indonesian native Adrian Zecha in 1988, Aman now has dozens of boutique properties around the world. Each prides itself on intrinsic beauty and stellar, almost invisible service.

Amangiri is hidden in plain sight

Amangiri, one of only three Aman properties in the continental US, is impossible to spot when viewed from above. In fact, it’s also impossible to spot when you are driving. With about 600 acres, it nestles beautifully into the desert landscape. The colors mirror the dusty terrain. Low, flat rooftops quietly conceal the beauty that lies beneath. It’s beautiful from the inside out. Every detail has been thoughtfully decided upon, whether natural or manmade.

Bring the outside in at Amangiri

Our suite was spacious, strikingly monochromatic, and naturally lit by expansive picture windows. Rooms are mountain-facing so that not a single golden drop of sun is missed throughout the day. The contrast of the warm glow that hovered and then completely dropped out of sight was something to look forward to each evening. With a glass of wine, we had front-row seats for every performance.

Rooms and suites are as natural as the outdoors itself. Stone, wood, and clay describe both the mellow color palette as well as the raw materials. The beds float mid-room, facing the windows so that there is no escape from the elements.

The outside patio had a small fire table to take the chill off the slightly cool summer nights while we enjoyed sunset cocktails. Nearby, a straw hat and parasol were on hand to shield the all-day rays, a hand-carved walking stick for hikes, and state-of-the-art binoculars. Amangiri, you thought of everything. Details rule.

Amangiri is only a click away. Check here for availability.

Amangiri’s Panoramic vistas

The Dining Room and Great Room at Amangiri are open-plan layouts with panoramic windows that essentially double as a permanent and ever-changing art exhibit. As we walked around the common spaces, we took note of local handicrafts, such as geometric-designed hand-woven baskets and pottery.

As ever, coming back to the resort after an invigorating day immersed in nature felt decadent, and our relaxing time ahead felt well-deserved. Four fireplaces with comfortable lounge-like seating were welcoming spots to cozy up with a pre-dinner drink. A floor-to-ceiling walnut wine cellar that would make any wine aficionado swoon was another fun place to explore.

The cuisine at Amangiri, given its geographic location, is influenced by Native Americans. Interesting flavor combinations, such as Shrimp and Mesquite Smoked Grits accompanied by Cholla Cactus Bud, caught my eye. We experimented with new dishes and flavors daily, and the jovial bartender created cocktails to match our choices.

A large telescope beckoned us from the Great Room’s expansive windows so we could get as up close and personal with the terrain as we wanted. I imagined wildlife roaming in the distance, the owls burrowing in the rocks, and the critters scuttling quickly across the desert floor.

The ABCs of Amangiri: Adventures, Buttes, and Champagne

Amangiri’s proximity to Lake Powell and Antelope Canyon is a significant draw, as they are a launch point for so many interesting adventures. One could easily spend a week and not begin to exhaust the excursions available: hiking the red rocks, crossing the challenging Via Ferrata, and climbing into the slot canyons, to name a few. There is also hot air ballooning, kayaking, and horseback riding—a playground for the adventure junkie and photographer alike.

The innate beauty in this part of Utah conjures up the image of peeling back layers from an onion. Beyond the thick outer layers—climbing and hiking—are the super thin ones, like discovering owls nesting in the nook of a rock or noticing the subtle difference in colors of the earth beneath our feet. Those delicate layers, the tiny details, can go on indefinitely here—the corner of the country where Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah intersect.

One afternoon, we boarded a helicopter to see the desert from above and landed atop a nearby butte. Our pilot set up a table and chairs for us to soak up the surroundings over a bottle of chilled champagne. Blue and gold, opposites in the world of color, created a striking scene from our elevated position.

As the sun began to set, we flew over the Glen Canyon Dam and Horseshoe Bend—its iconic shape giving credence to its name. One highlight among many highlights of the trip.

Amangiri and Utah’s Slot Canyons

It is said that Utah has the most slot canyons of anywhere in the world, and the draw of hiking into these colorful, sunlit, narrow gorges was a large part of why Utah became our destination of choice.

Our guide was a young, local Native American man who led us up, over, and around the rock formations and taught us about the layered sedimentary deposits. At various points, we had to scramble on our hands and knees and suck in our bellies to access the famous slots.

To say that the colors and striations of the canyons cannot be captured on film is an understatement. A sliver, a piece, or a glimpse can be caught, but to illustrate it in its entirety was impossible, at least by me.

At certain times of day, the sun dived deep into the slots, saturating them and creating luminescent hues. The rock walls appeared fluid. We crawled through passageways in the formations, watching the colors that ranged from cadmium orange and burnt orange to cayenne red, persimmon, and then a rich, moody purple. Other times, looking through the crevices gave the illusion of an orb of fire rather than permanent rock. The once fiery walls smoldered as the sun shifted, turning smoky and dark.

Amangiri and Lake Powell

A man-made reservoir rather than a lake, Lake Powell added yet a different layer of adventure to our desert holiday. The following morning, we hired a captain and a boat and spent the day wake-surfing, waterskiing, and swimming in Lake Powell’s crips waters. We marveled at the impressive and incredibly steep canyon walls and noted the distinct colored patterns that centuries of ever-changing water levels had etched into the earth.

Craggy and textured mountains surrounded the lake, vibrantly juxtaposed against the cerulean blue sky. Distant buttes dotted the barren landscape; their iconic flat tops cut a unique silhouette. With the water so clear and brilliant, Lake Powell is understandably a favorite destination for houseboats and day trippers. Yet, it didn’t feel busy. In fact, there were moments we were so alone, I felt I had traveled back to prehistoric times.

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Amangiri’s 180 million-year-old rock is a showstopper

After a morning of squeezing through canyons and tackling the dry desert heat, it was a gift to return to the resort and know that we didn’t have to leave the property for any reason for the remainder of the day. As Google had promised in my research, the pool setting at Amangiri was said to be nothing short of awesome. I was excited to fact-check.

Hands down, the most defining element of Amangiri is its enormous ancient boulder. It has been said that Mr. Zecha used this rock as the centerpiece of the resort’s design and spent years trying to secure the site, as it was initially nationally owned land. One could argue that it is the oldest piece of original art on the property.

In a feat of design that would make any landscape architect drool, a glorious pool surrounds the boulder. Each platform lounger, with oversized white umbrellas, slices into the pool’s edge, which creates the illusion of personal space. Some days, we felt like we were the only guests there. However, one afternoon, Tom Hanks and his family showed up poolside, and we all did our best to pretend we didn’t recognize him. But even with eyes closed, Tom Hank’s voice is impossible to mistake.

Invisible service at Amangiri

As mentioned earlier, Aman prides itself on nearly invisible service. At Amangiri, they took that sentiment a bit too far, and sometimes, we couldn’t find anyone! This was most apparent at the pool when ordering a drink or a bottle of water and then later at cocktails. (Although, it didn’t seem like the Hanks family had similar issues.) However, when we did find a server, they couldn’t have been more friendly or helpful.

In Aman’s defense, it may be hard, in such a quiet, remote part of Utah, to find the level of service they can more easily find at other properties. Nonetheless, I would head back to Amangiri in a heartbeat and forgo any level of service for the views.

Amangiri means Peaceful Mountain

Amangiri is a feat of form and function. Geometric lines nestle so unobtrusively into the earth—not making much of a ripple from an architectural point of view. There is a reason that Amangiri has been written about endlessly in travel magazines and is often cited as one of the best hotel settings in the country. The pool is considered one of the most beautiful in the world, thanks to Mr. Zecha’s vision.

A few years ago, Aman revealed a sister property to Amangiri called Camp Sarika. It’s a private enclave of ten canvas-topped pavilions, each with a private plunge pool, set within 600 acres of the property. Aman calls it a back-to-the-wild experience. They call it a meditative sanctuary. Whatever they call it, it’s now at the top of my wish list.

In Arabic, Amangiri is defined as ‘Peaceful Mountain’. It’s hard to imagine a more fitting name in this stunning part of the United States. When I think back to that long-ago dinner party in Tokyo, now I’m the one smiling. Wherever you are, Fang, thank you.

Amangiri is just a click away. Check here for availability.

November 11, 2022
I wouldn’t go there if I were you (Why where we choose to travel matters)

The landline rings. I immediately know it’s my mother calling. From the way she says ‘hello’ I know something else—that I’m not going to like the conversation. I’m tempted to feign a poor connection and hang up.

‘A woman was kidnapped in Uganda’, my mother says, her voice measured, with frantic undertones. ‘At gunpoint’, she continues, ‘alone, while on safari.’

‘I’m not going to Uganda for four months, Mom’, I say, my voice measured, with annoyed undertones.

‘And, I’m 49 years old. I’m a grown-up.’

‘She was 35’, my mom replies.

I hang up.

The phone rings again. It’s my dad.

I’m measured by nature. So much so that my baking skills are flawless. You can’t improvise a chocolate soufflé no matter what The Great British Bake Off would have us believe. I’m a recipe follower. A rule follower. I color inside the lines.

So while it’s true the unfortunate kidnapping in Uganda happened only a few months before I’m due to go. And also true I’m traveling solo to Queen Elizabeth National Park, the very park she was kidnapped from, I do what I do best—I measure.

As departure day looms, I research as if my life depends upon it. Ultimately, I deem Uganda safe. Safer, I’ll add, than my current hometown. I tell my parents that lightning never strikes the same place twice.

They don’t buy that, either.

Where we choose to travel matters. Some of us choose to cage dive with sharks off the coast of South Africa for a high-adrenaline thrill. Others choose to restore coral reefs in Australia in order to help save the planet’s fragile ecosystems.

Our adventure mindsets are decidedly different and have individual arcs—from dangerous to safe, worthless to worthwhile. I think of the center of this arc as my comfort zone. The times I step out of my comfort zone are rewarding beyond measure. Uganda is one such time. But there are others.

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Preconceptions aside

Checking in with my good friend Merriam-Webster, I note the synonyms for ‘preconceived’. They include biased, bigoted, influenced, prejudiced, and opinionated. Preconception sure does come with a lot of heavy baggage.

Over the years, I’ve been ‘encouraged’ to rethink travel plans. That encouragement may have been due to a particular country’s current state of civil unrest. Or, because the terrain is considered treacherous. Or, simply because it just doesn’t seem fun. Most of the time it’s due to preconceived notions about our destination. Notions that I’m keen to dispel.

The unsolicited advice is well-intended, I know. Yet, in the end, we are masters of our own domains. Or in this case, travel itineraries. Sorry, mom.

You’ll get kidnapped in Uganda

I possess a healthy fear of traveling to Uganda. I rarely travel solo. The last time I traveled alone was in 1994 when my then-boyfriend and I broke up and I booked a spontaneous flight to St. Thomas to cry.

My salty tears drip into plastic goblets of overpriced, oaky, California chardonnay. A few days later, two friends track me down to save me from myself (and to suggest a cold Carib, instead).

Any fears I carry with me from DC to Uganda dissipate upon arrival. Reality versus preconception. The gap is deep and wide.

I’m due to meet up with a friend in Bwindi National Park later on, which leaves me solo in the southern Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park. I spend three nights at a remote tent camp alongside the Ntungwe river, where the sounds of wildlife begin to fill the warm African air just as I am heading to bed.

The savannah after dark is a universe unto its own. It is ~~one of~~ the only place I would rather be awake while everyone else is asleep. One night, I hear an elephant’s enormous body graze the side of my canvas tent. I note the natural tempo of his slow-paced, padded steps.

My heart thumps so loudly that I’m sure he can hear it. In the dead of night, the chorus of animal life is nearly spiritual. Not much later, I feel the roar of a lion as much as I hear it. I try my best to stay awake, not wanting to miss a growl.

The famous tree-climbing lions are part of the reason I choose to visit Uganda. The Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park is the only place in the world to see them. Lions that climb acacia trees to find shelter from the heat, take a well-earned nap, or spy on helpless prey. Another reason is to observe the Silverback gorillas, a species that can’t be found in any zoos or game parks.

Finding Gold, in Africa

Yet, there are reasons beyond wildlife that make this trip remarkable. It’s the people. Not only the people who live and work in the destinations we are traveling to (bartenders, guides, trackers, and school kids) but the other adventure-seekers we meet along the way.

Whether that be the women I meet in seats 2B and 2C en route to Ishasha, the birders with whom I cross the Mabamba Swamp, or the digital nomad punching keys on the bar stool beside me. It’s all about the animals, in Uganda. But, it’s also all about the people.

The bush plane I take from Ishasha to Kihihi seats four people. Across the aisle sits a tall, elegant man with inquisitive eyes and an endearing smile. We chit-chat (an activity I love) while waiting for wheels-up. My husband is not a chit-chatter, so when I’m alone I chit-chat like there’s no tomorrow.

I learn that although he currently lives in Milan, he’s originally from the small African nation of Burundi. I ask him about Burundi and why he is visiting Uganda. We exchange stories of our game drives and animal sightings. We compare kills in detail and count ourselves lucky for having seen one. He tells me about his twins and that he works for Nike.

“Have you been to the United States?”, I ask.

“Once”, he responds, “to Atlanta, back in 1996.”

I feel creaky, rusty cogs turn slowly in my mind. My Trivial Pursuit general knowledge resurfaces and I imagine inserting a red wedge into a little, plastic wheel.

“Wait. Did you go to the Olympics?”

Bashfully, he tells me he was in fact, in the Olympics. My jaw hits the tray table. I’m about to ask more but just then the engine sputters to life at a decibel level that renders speech useless. Stray zebras clear the runway. We’re off.

Later, when I’m reunited with Wi-Fi, I google my humble seatmate, (you wouldn’t?). His name is Vénuste Niyongabo. I learned he trained to compete in the 1500-meter race for the ’96 Olympics. He was considered the clear favorite, but at the last minute forfeited his space to a teammate who hadn’t been able to compete in ’88 or ’92. Vénuste entered the 5000-meter race instead, one he hadn’t trained for. In his final lap, Vénuste went on to win an unexpected Olympic gold.

The only Olympic gold medal winner for Burundi. Ever.

Where I choose to travel matters. I choose Uganda and expect to observe climbing lions and track Silverbacks. I don’t expect a chance encounter with an Olympic Gold medalist on a four-seater Cessna. As valuable a memory as any other I collect while in Uganda. Maybe the most valuable. Human connection trumps all.

Oh, and no one gets kidnapped in Uganda that week. I check.

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Drugs are everywhere in Colombia

You’re going to Colombia? Haven’t you seen Narcos? Ahhh, if I had a peso for every time I heard that one. To those stuck in the Netflix version of Colombia, circa 1980, I ask you to join me in the present day.

I visit Cartagena because I’d like to be dazzled by a Spanish colonial city in a Gabriel García Márquez kind of way. Magical Realism is a part of Colombia’s allure, at least in the literary sense. My expectations are unreasonably high. I picture men levitating in the streets and musical notes dancing in mid-air. I conjure up the aroma of deep-fried yucca from street vendors and imagine the echo of clomping horse hooves on cobbled streets.

I read One Hundred Years of Solitude for the third time, in anticipation.

Many things are sold on the electrically-charged street corners of Cartagena, but as far as I see, none of them are drugs. The street corners I pass sell pineapples, papayas, and wedges of juicy watermelon. Messy perhaps, but not illegal, merchandise.

The palenqueras are the glorious fruit sellers of Cartagena. Their bright clothing and broad smiles are colorfully woven into the fabric of the city. At one time, these iconic women carried baskets of fruit upon their heads from their Palanque village to the city center. Today, they find a shady patch of the street or plaza to offer their bounty of produce to tourists.

The World Cup: USA v. Colombia

One day we walk to Getsemaní, a neighborhood just beyond the fortified walls of the old city. It’s gritty, raw, and all about street life. We stumble upon the chipped mustard-yellow walls of the Town Hall on Plaza de la Trinidad. The colors of Cartagena are kaleidoscopic—a harmonious match to the zeal of the city.

We see young Colombian kids playing a game of pick-up soccer. They run as fast and effortlessly in torn flip-flops and battered Crocs as most American kids can in Nike Airs. Premier League jerseys hang loosely off their lanky frames. A group of men is stooping nearby, their faces weathered and grooved like an old LP. I take a mental photo. I still have it.

My son is nine years old. Without warning, he dives headfirst into the game. My husband, daughter, and I sit on a bench nearby—front-row seats to an impromptu World Cup match.

The kids don’t bat an eye at the American newcomer and absorb him into the game like an old friend. They don’t have language in common, but somehow figure out who is playing which position and who is on which team. Sport has a language all its own.

Goalposts are marked with soda cans. Yet, the game matters in ways beyond scoring. My son takes a shot on goal and misses. The game resets. A lesson in Latin American football, my husband muses on the sidelines. A lesson in a lot of things, I can’t help but think.

Finnish Lapland doesn’t sound like fun

“You do realize there are only a few hours of daylight in Finland during winter?”, chirps a nosy woman seated on my left. She is way too close to my screen, I think, as I scoot further down the banquette at my local coffee shop.

Yes, I discover that little factoid while researching our post-Christmas trip to Finnish Lapland. A holiday of near-perpetual darkness isn’t for everyone. I’m hoping it’s for us.

I want to tell her “if we all traveled to the same place, the Dominican Republic would sink to the bottom of the sea. So, while I appreciate your concern that we might not have fun in Finland, let me say one thing—I’m a grown-up. I can go where I want.”

I don’t say any of that. But I want to.

Finland turns out to be one of the funnest vacations we have as a family. I use ‘funnest’ deliberately here. I know it isn’t a real word—I have Grammarly.

The main reason I want to go to Finland is to see the Northern Lights, which I hear is all but guaranteed in Finnish Lapland. Naturally, I don’t tell my family this. Instead, I google all the ways to have fun in the Arctic Circle in December. There are 35,800,000 results. Phew.

I get the guaranteed aurora borealis on our first night in Lapland. Ticking that box early means I can fully embrace the other 35,799,000 fun things I’ve promised my family we can do. Among many fun activities, the funnest (again, for emphasis) takes the form of 17 yelping huskies pulling us on small metal sleds at breakneck speed at dusk (aka noon).

Toni, the dog whisperer of Finland, is our guide. He has an ease and lightness about him that belies his 20-something years. Before departing into the wilderness, Toni gives us vital instructions on how to maneuver the dogs. None of which I can hear. The dogs are barking so loudly they shake the snow off the trees.

Once the dogs get mushing, the landscape deafens. It’s like someone muted Finland by remote control. The beauty of the landscape is enhanced by the centuries-old silence of dogsledding.

Toni guides us over frozen lakes and under tall pines. The sky renders shades of lavender and pink. Then almost imperceptibly, those colors transform into magenta and orange. A setting from a fairy tale, the low-angled winter sun casts long shadows on the snow, which is far from snow white. It is purple-white, pink-white, and blue-white. Benjamin Moore could learn a thing or two about color in Finland.

Night-filled days are fun, but tiring. After seven nights in the Arctic, I’m excited to get home for some vitamin D and to watch White Fang. The memory of Toni and his unwavering command over our pack of huskies will be hard to forget.

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Do you know about that terrifying runway in Bhutan?

By the numbers, Paro, Bhutan’s only international airport, has incredible stats. Only 17 pilots are qualified to land there. The runway is a skimpy 6500 feet long and surrounded by steep 18,000-foot snow-covered Himalayan peaks. Airplanes need to carve a 45-degree angle around these dramatic peaks moments before touchdown. Oh, and flights are only allowed to land during the day, in good weather conditions, and when a full moon is rising.

The full moon part is a joke. The rest is no joke.

We go to Bhutan to celebrate my 40th birthday, despite the statistics people have kindly sent us regarding plane crashes. ‘Bhutan is the happiest place on earth!’, I read. If I have to turn 40, then I’m going to do it in the happiest place on earth, dammit.

Leopards, tigers, and dragons. Oh my.

The Kingdom of Bhutan is known as the ‘Land of the Thunder Dragon’. One of its most famous sights is called The Tiger’s Nest. The Himalayan foothills are home to the elusive clouded leopard. Leopards, tigers, and dragons? Whoa. Bhutan is setting a high bar.

The crowned jewel of Bhutan is the Tiger’s Nest (Paro Taktsang), an ancient monastery that hangs precariously off of a 10,000-foot cliff. The Tiger’s Nest is a sacred space built on a cave site where Indian gurus meditated in the 8th century. The cluster of temples that are perched there now was built in 1692. The Tiger’s Nest is why I choose to visit Bhutan—to absorb a small part of its immense spirituality. To get there, I will push myself physically and mentally.

Pema, our Bhutanese guide, personifies the happiness index I have heard so much about. His dimpled smile radiates as he tells us the history of his country. He talks about his favorite Bhutanese dishes, his wife, and his kids. I again remember why I travel is as much about the people as it is about the destination.

The hike is rigorous, which we expect. Red, yellow, and blue prayer flags flap—primary colors fraying from years of wind and rain. An enormous prayer wheel meets us along the way and I attempt to channel the surrounding aura. Mountain peaks, craggy rocks, and cloudless, bright blue skies. I am looking for a sign—a way to connect, however unrealistic that is.

From a physical point of view, I’m well within my comfort zone—the center of my personal arc. The terrain is tough to climb, but not impossible. Yet, from a spiritual viewpoint, I’m out of my depths. I’m eager to embrace it, but it’s a challenge.

Eventually, we enter a clearing—a break from the blue pine forest. I see the Tiger’s Nest directly across the valley, hanging onto a sheer rock face exactly where I expect it to be. I imagine the tigress in her lair as well as the generations of people who have trekked here before me. We have 700 steps to descend and another 250 to ascend before we reach our goal. Slightly out of breath, I stop to look up.

Above me, I see a fully-formed 360-degree rainbow circling the sun. I’ll say that one more time for impact—a rainbow circling the sun.

This phenomenon, I later discover, is a sun halo. It occurs when sunlight refracts millions of hexagonal ice crystals. Those crystals then become suspended in the atmosphere to cause an otherworldly ring around the sun.

I didn’t even know sun halos existed. I have yet to see one since. Maybe this is the goal? A sun halo—my forever connection to Bhutan. Who doesn’t believe in signs?

Travel matters

In Cartagena, I expect to be immersed in a magical, yet real, world of art, culture, and food. I don’t expect to watch an impromptu pick-up soccer game on a gritty Colombian plaza.

In Finland, I expect to glimpse electric green brushstrokes of charged particles crossing a black sky—not to be immersed in the age-old sport of dogsledding within a world of white.

In Bhutan, the Tiger’s Nest is my intended goal. Yet, it’s overshadowed, quite literally, by an ethereal atmospheric phenomenon.

And in Uganda? In Uganda, I track mighty Silverbacks and see rare climbing lions. So-called ‘once-in-a-lifetime experiences.’ But, then I meet Vénuste Niyongabo—a man who brings home gold to the poorest country in the world.

Why do I travel?

One of my favorite authors says it best:

“After all, we travel for the same reason we read: to remind ourselves of the existence, and also the inexplicability, of other lives, to recognize ourselves within that which is foreign to us. We are one person when we begin a trip, or a book or an article; we are another person when we conclude it. Another person, but also the same-we take the journey to see ourselves.” —Hanya Yanagihara

Where I choose to travel matters. I take the journey to see myself. Although what I discover isn’t always what I expect, I wouldn’t have it any other way. The risks of my choices are mine to bear. I’ll take those risks because I value the rewards that accompany them.

And also, because I’m a grown-up, dammit.

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August 15, 2022
Escape to New York, Inness takes on the Catskills

Inness is the latest property to take on the Catskills, in New York State. With its low-key escapist vibe and majestic mountain scenery, Inness delivers a weekend getaway for those lucky enough to live within driving distance. Think a cabin-laden, nature-centric resort in the Catskills can’t deliver? Inness will prove you wrong.

“Give me a 5-hour radius, Daniel?” I plead. My husband hates to drive. The last time we took a road trip, a four-hour drive turned into eight, due to an overturned tractor trailer and an ill-timed oil spill. Let’s just say that closed the books on road trips for good.

With airplanes being public enemy #1 of travel these days, I thought I could re-open the case. Newspaper headlines cry, “Unfriendly Skies”, “Airmageddon”, and “The Summer of Lost Luggage”. Every day I’d email Daniel an article reinforcing my point. I’m nothing if not persistent. Although Daniel would likely use a different adjective.

I send more self-serving sound bytes, but he’s unresponsive. If I’m making any headway, it’s impossible to tell.

As a last resort, I offer this: “We can listen to 80s on 8 the whole way.” A statement, while brilliant, I regret the moment it’s leaving my mouth. I detect a glint of possibility in his eyes.

Inness, here we come.

You’re going to the Catskills?

Friends ask, ‘Ummm, are the Catskills still a thing? Were they ever?’. Yes, we are going to the Catskills. The Catskills of Dirty Dancing lore. That place your grandparents used to go. ‘The Catskills are cool again.’, I reply. I hope I’m right. If they aren’t, I’ve given up road trip rights forever.

I’m sensing you don’t believe me. I can see your mouse hovering over that red dot to close this tab. Give a travel blogger, I mean, a travel writer a chance.

We fly past local farm stands and ramshackle barns that look one gust of wind away from absolute destruction. No traffic, no detours, or oil spills. Waze rules—we arrive at Inness at four hours and fifty-eight minutes.

We park. In the distance, enormous willows weep in pairs and in clusters. Queen Anne’s Lace delicately weaves around tall grasses. Cattails emerge with telltale cigar-shaped tips, adding texture to the overgrown landscape. Their pollen has already disintegrated into wispy pieces of cottony fluff that float dreamily through the air.

Thank you, Inness. This is just the welcome I’m hoping for. First, I dutifully thank the traffic gods. Next, I unsuccessfully try to get the refrain from ‘Karma Chameleon’ out of my head. We head towards check-in.

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Inness, the namesake

American painter George Inness came of age during the Hudson River School era. He is referred to as ‘The father of American landscape painting.’ It took me all of 60 seconds to see why the farmhouse and cabin-laden property of Inness is named for him.

A master of light and tone, George Inness couldn’t have chosen a better place to paint than this pastoral part of New York State. The landscape is the main event at Inness. Its location between the Catskill and Shawangunk mountain ranges provides both wide-angle vistas and macroscopic wildlife. I’m smitten. I think George would be, too.

Inness, the property

Inness is comprised of 28 cabins and 12 farmhouse rooms set over 220 bucolic acres. Each cabin is created to maximize the view. I had a hard time deciding where to spend my viewing time. On our private deck? On the hill by the fire pit overlooking the valley? Or, from the adults-only circle pool. In the end, I rotate between all three. I’m an equal opportunity view seeker.

Inness is all about the outdoors. Yet, the indoors have been curated and designed with ‘modern-farmhouse-chic’ in mind. A combination of sparse Scandinavian living with layers of luxury like Frette sheets and robes. Aesop toiletries and locally-sourced snacks are within arm’s reach. The cabins feel effortlessly designed, with vintage furniture and found objects, tea kettles, and minimalistic earth-toned pottery.

The Farmhouse has lovely common and outdoor spaces. A pool table, ping pong table, and corn hole are ready and waiting for a match. An honor bar opens in the afternoon, and we take full advantage of its proximity to the pool.

Fit For a King

Our King Cabin interior is a lesson in geometry. Two pentagons are divided by a square archway. A lone bulb encased by hand-blown glass dangles above a minimal wooden table in the center of the room.

Sheaths of linen are draped against the windows and match the warm dove-gray color of the walls. The Frette bed linens also match the walls, so the entire room feels bathed in shades of gray.

The bed is so underdone it appears naked. No decorative pillows, no patterns, or embellishments. It’s a perfect metaphor for Inness. Underdone, but luxurious.

Our cabin’s exterior is a lesson in simplicity. Rich, graphite-colored siding, iron-framed windows, and doors pop up between the wild green grasses. The cabins pay homage to the Catskill resorts of old, but with a casual and modern twist. They run serpentine along a dirt road that leads from the Farmhouse at one end to the restaurant barn at the other.

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Peas in a pod, and other delights at Inness

One of the reasons I choose Inness is its closeness to the mountains. I love hiking with Daniel. Nothing makes him happier than tackling a mountain with a view. Nothing makes me happier than eating a great meal after tackling a mountain with a view. We are two peas in the same pod.

In addition to DJ’ing five hours’ worth of Tear For Fears, A-Ha, and other dreadful 80s bands, it’s Daniel’s job to choose our hikes. It’s my job to choose our restaurants. Two peas.

Inness’ restaurant encompasses the same simplicity found elsewhere on the property. The large open dining barn has a convivial bar and two outdoor dining areas. Why anyone would choose to sit anywhere but the balcony overlooking the fields and mountains is a mystery I will never solve.

Creatures of Habit

In fact, we eat every meal at the same balcony table and never get bored—either of the menu or the views. Each night the balcony serves us much more than lovely meals.

Storms with dramatic purple clouds roll through while we share a plateful of thinly-sliced tuna carpaccio. Bolts of lightning strike during our shared course of homemade pasta. By the time our mains are served, the sky has cleared and golden light touches the fields below.

On Mondays and Tuesdays, Inness serves wood-fired pizzas and pasta dishes only. For the remainder of the week, the menu is more extensive. It includes local finds like steelhead trout with butter beans and salsa verde and an oven-roasted pork chop with charred rapini and hot honey mustard.

We did attempt to have a dinner off-property. Perhaps find a local farm with a restaurant? But we are creatures of habit, as my friends and family can attest. Leaving the ever-changing skies and sunset from the balcony never materialized. Shocker.

The Catskills Overdeliver

Daniel expects to be underwhelmed by the hiking trails in the Catskills. He’s what you’d call a hiking snob. To be fair, we’ve done some challenging hikes in the past few years. The Tetons, Chamonix, and Helvellyn, as examples. How can the Catskills compare?

I love when Daniel’s expectations are exceeded.

The downside of having no say in our hikes is that I never know what I’m getting into. Traditionally, Daniel and I fight while we hike. We fight because he gets us lost. He won’t admit that, of course. But it’s written right here on the internet so it’s 100% true.

The upside of our fighting is that it scares the bears.

Lakes and Loops

Daniel tells me we are hiking Millbrook Mountain to Gertrude’s Nose. It’s a 7-mile loop hike, rather than an in-and-out one. I’m thrilled. I don’t like in-and-out hikes. I spend the whole ‘in’ wondering when we are getting to the ‘out’. It spoils the experience.

The hike, which begins at the base of Lake Minnewaska, starts out friendly enough. Aside from the sign at the trailhead warning us that we are entering a rattlesnake habitat and to take heed. At least that takes my mind off the bears.

The hike has a soft-padded start, with fallen pine needles paving our way. Inevitably, the work begins, and the terrain gets steep. But thankfully the trail rewards us with views that are worth the struggle. And Daniel’s constant amazement at the hike’s beauty makes me feel like saying ‘I told you so.’

For the sake of marriage preservation, I refrain. Plus, he hasn’t gotten us lost yet.

On Gertrude’s Nose

Who is this Gertrude and why is her nose so climb-worthy? In a nutshell, Dutch settler Gertrude Bruyn set up her house on the range opposite this geological marvel—a cliff escarpment that projects out over the Palmaghatt Ravine ‘like a nose’. I wonder if she’s disappointed by the body part chosen for this honor.

The cliffs, crevices, and joint cracks that lead to the nose offer spectacular eastern and southern views of the Hudson Valley. It also offers a sheer drop to imminent death. If selfies are your thing, think twice. Your Instagram feed isn’t worth it. As silver linings go, maybe you’ll meet Gertrude in your next life.

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Where’s the Lemon Squeeze?

Daniel tells me our next hike is called Lemon Squeeze. Cute, I think. How hard can that be? He mentions it’s another 7-mile loop, but not to worry because it’s mostly downhill. Why I don’t calculate what that says about the uphill part still boggles my mind.

One mile straight up a mountain is what I fail to compute. It’s a doozy of a climb, and I never use the word doozy. We crawl under, over, and around rocks that weigh several tons and balance precariously upon one another. A maze of boulders and tight squeezes dot the route.

Every time I think we have come upon Lemon Squeeze, an even squeezier spot appears. Finally, the real squeeze is obvious, as only children aged ten and younger or supermodels can get through without losing layers of skin.

The Real Lemon Squeeze

After climbing a slippery ladder within an ultra-narrow crevice, I pop out onto a rock ledge overlooking a cerulean blue lake and matching skies. I kiss the rocks under my hands and feet and thank the Almighty this is not an in-and-out trail. The views of Mohonk Lake, creepy Mohonk Mountain House, and the Catskill range are worth every layer of skin I lose that day.

Later, a friend texts me she hiked Lemon Squeeze too—when she was ten. I’m ever-humbled.

The best reward for a morning of hiking is threefold: food, wine, and a pool. Inness has all three waiting for us each day. We dive deep into relaxation like the seasoned professionals we are.

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Inness is for the dogs, and other well-behaved guests

If you live in NYC, Boston, or Philly, I envy your proximity to Inness. As is noted by the license plates which fill the parking lot, the property clearly pulls from the northeast. A mini-escape from the summer heat and city life, Inness is a quick 90-minute drive from Brooklyn. I would have definitely had control of Sirius XM if our drive was that short.

As an added bonus, Inness welcomes dogs (for a fee). The website states it accepts up to two, crated, well-socialized, and well-trained dogs per reservation. This rules out our labs for one reason for sure. That Frette duvet cover would never have survived Indy and Shaka.

However, we meet many adorable canines while at Inness. Most are better behaved than the guests.

Pool, Golf, and other obstacles at Inness

We aren’t golfers. At least not yet. I’ll go out on a limb and say I’ll never golf. But then my dad will inevitably comment, ‘Never say never! You now eat fish!’ and I’ll never hear the end of it.

I overhear a woman at the pool describing the course as having a good aura. That sounds a bit woo-woo, but what do I know about the past lives of golf courses? Built by King Collins Golf, the course has nine holes designed for ‘repeat play to fully appreciate the countless shot-making possibilities.” Their words, not mine.

Two pools book-end the property. The rectangular, kid-friendly pool and the circular adults-only one. I imagine the architects discussing how to keep shrieking children as far away from the grown-ups as possible. The ones who have just dumped, I mean, dropped off their kids at summer camp. Well-played, team Inness.

Inness takes advantage of that fantastic, new middle-aged activity—the obstacle course. Part Tough Mudder, part elementary school playground, the course is a nice alternative to the classic hotel gym, of which there is one on-site, as well.

Checking Out at Inness

Three nights at Inness is the right amount of time to escape the city heat and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. A leisurely balcony breakfast allows us to savor the valley and mountain views one last time before we pile into the car.

The check-in/check-out greenhouse of Inness doubles as a museum-like boutique and overpriced farm stand. We have our boxed leftovers from last night’s dinner for a road trip picnic. ‘This couldn’t happen on an airplane, Daniel.’ I don’t say.

We jump in the car and I quickly change the station to ’90s on 9’. I glance back at Inness. I miss the balcony.

George Inness died in 1894. According to his son, he was viewing the sunset, when he threw up his hands into the air and exclaimed, “My God! Oh, how beautiful!” Then he fell to the ground and died.

That’s the way to go.

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July 20, 2022
How To Spend An Unforgettable Weekend In Joshua Tree

There are countless ways to spend a weekend in and around Joshua Tree National Park. Bike, hike, climb, stargaze. Take a sound bath, watch the sunrise, and spot a shooting star. Rent a vintage Airstream or a modern Airbnb. How you spend a weekend in Joshua Tree is personal, and sometimes spiritual. Need some inspiration to plan a weekend in Joshua Tree? You’re in the right place.

Desert sky
Dream beneath the desert sky
The rivers run, but soon run dry
We need new dreams tonight

—In God’s Country, U2

The Joshua Tree, circa 1987

I storm out of the house. A flimsy metal headband secures foam-covered earbuds to my head. Tangled cords attach my head to a fiery yellow Sony Walkman Sport. The color is appropriate, as it matches my blazing teenage angst.

It’s March of 1987 and U2 has just released The Joshua Tree. Without exaggeration, it’s a defining moment in my ego-centric, music-driven teenage life. The album, their 5th, may have catapulted U2 to superstardom, but I’m already in deep. I know every song lyric from War, Boy, Under a Blood Red Sky, and The Unforgettable Fire, by heart.

I’m 17 years old. Ecstatic and furious at the same time. Two sides of the same record.

I haven’t a clue what a Joshua tree is, or where it’s found. Only now, decades later, do I find myself in God’s Country, the very part of the world that inspired these eleven unforgettable songs.

Joshua Tree, A brief history

Joshua Tree National Park is in southeast California, about 50 minutes from Palm Springs, but easily accessed by car from Los Angeles, Las Vegas, or San Diego. It outsizes the state of Rhode Island ever-so-slightly at 795,156 acres.

It’s named after the signature Joshua trees (Yucca brevifolia) that are native to the Mojave Desert. Joshua trees are succulents closely related to the agave plant. If your mind shoots straight to tequila then you and my husband are kindred spirits.

I learn from Wikipedia, that the Joshua tree is a symbol of faith and hope in the midst of aridity. Early Mormon settlers named them after the prophet Joshua, as the branches reminded them of him raising his arms in prayer.

To me, the shape of the Joshua tree looks like my son when I accuse him of devouring the last two pints of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream. His arms rise up defensively in disbelief while I point out empty cartons of Americone Dream and The Tonight Dough in the garbage bin.

A pile of rocks and a sea of stars

Among the two best reasons to spend a weekend in Joshua Tree are the rocks and the stars. Some of the park’s oldest rocks are 1.7 billion years old and owe their shape to groundwater that has eroded their hard edges. 1.7 billion years is hard to comprehend, and I imagine this ancient timeline contributes to the spirituality of the area.

Golden boulders look like overlapping mounds of soft, drippy sand kids create on the beach. I climb a pile of these massive rocks. In every direction, I see specks of human life. Some are sitting, eyes wide open, absorbing the vortices of the desert. Others are meditating, eyes closed in contemplation. The serenity of the park is palpable. No wonder it attracts 3 million visitors a year.

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A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Stargazing

Joshua Tree National Park is a stargazing utopia. It’s certified by International Dark Sky Parks as one of the best natural ‘dark sky’ places in the world. The IDSP has been ‘protecting the night from light pollution since 1988’. That’s just one year after The Joshua Tree was released. I wonder if Bono knows about this?

With astrotourism (yes, astrological tourism is a thing) on the rise, the eastern side of the park provides some of the darkest skies in the area. If you want to get closer to the universe, this is the place to do it.

Our Airbnb is located about 15 minutes from the park’s west entrance. The sky at night looks infinite in its lunar starkness. We spend hours flat on our backs to take it in.

I try not to blink. The sky is awash in stars brighter than I’ve ever seen. The Milky Way is showing off. More than once a meteor silently screams across the sky, with a long tail of energy trailing behind. Those who see it shout in delight while the ones who don’t pout and say we’ve made it up. This nightly activity is a highlight of my weekend in Joshua Tree. I’d declare myself starry-eyed if it weren’t such an awful pun.

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: The Park

Joshua Tree is easy to tackle in one day, or in our case, just a few hours. Perhaps lounging around the Airbnb all morning with a cappuccino is not the optimal way to plan a national park day. By the time we finally head out we realize our lunch will be so ill-timed it threatens to spill into dinner. Some of us, me, are already hangry.

Since we blow through the park at breakneck speed, I’ll identify must-see places for future reference. I don’t recall which landmarks we visit that day as I’m so ravenous I can’t see straight. Thankfully the park itself is so tranquil and peaceful, that I’m able to put my hunger aside to enjoy it.

A few highlights follow, in semi-logical order. Don’t blame me if you get lost, I’m not a travel advisor for good reason.

A few highlights

The route starting from the south entrance towards the west entrance could look like this:

Cholla Cactus Garden: A great place to begin, especially for sunrise junkies. The masses of soft and fluffy-looking cacti species are sweetly called Teddybear Cholla, but I wouldn’t attempt to cuddle one.

Arch Rock: At 30 feet across, this natural arch at Joshua Tree doesn’t rival its counterparts at Arches National Park, but it’s still worth a look. Joshua Tree allows visitors to climb the boulders making the park feel like a prehistoric playground.

Skull Rock: A rock shaped like, you guessed it, a skull. Kind of underwhelming. Possibly due to the throng of visitors or the straight-up fact that I’m still really hungry. Skull Rock is located just off the side of the road so it’s easy to do a fly-by if the crowds are overwhelming.

Keys View: For sunset chasers, head to Keys View to catch the late afternoon sun that enhances the colors of the landscape. Rivers of the past are now a dusty mocha brown, and snake between the arid valleys. All in all, it’s nothing short of spectacular.

Author’s Note: In case you’re curious about our lunch crisis (and something tells me you’ve quickly forgotten it) I’ll fill you in. We pull up to Pappy & Harriet’s jam-packed parking lot at 230pm and are told there’s a 45-minute wait. Ugh. Next time, I’m packing a picnic.

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Beyond the rocks

Joshua Tree National Park’s surrounding areas have much to offer beyond the park itself. Three of the main nearby towns are Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley, and Twentynine Palms. Each lies within a short drive to one of the park’s three entrances (north, south, or west). Each has its own homestead desert vibe, quirky attractions, and accommodation options.

Rock Shops and Crystals

I don’t plan to visit Joshua Tree to get in touch with my spiritual side, but it’s hard to avoid. The area is oozing with opportunities to experience spirituality. Yoga retreats, sound baths, and ancient vortices are just a few ways to recharge and relax.

The Joshua Tree Rock Shop sells gems and crystals that each have their own characteristics and healing properties. Collect a piece of Amber so you can carry around your very own piece of the sun. Or, Angelite to communicate with Spirit Guides. I buy Amethyst for my daughter, to counter negative energy. And Rose Quartz for myself to cope with negative daughters.

Our trip revolves around a friend’s birthday. We are a group of six, three couples, who have known each other for over 15 years. Between us, we fall into the wide array of types that are drawn to this far-flung part of the country—artists, musicians, writers, and yogis, among us. Joshua Tree is a retreat with wide appeal. It’s hard to imagine anyone not finding comfort and peace here.

Wine and Rocks

With organic wines, craft beers, gems, crystals, stones, and good vibes, the Wine and Rock Shop is as eclectic as they come. Walk in and stock up on Tutu’s Tortilla Chips and a bottle of Gearhead Crazy Sexy Cool wine for a post-hike snack. Leave with a Blue Agate Plate to improve concentration. Wait, what did I come in for again? Go ahead and get distracted. It’s all good here.

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A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Getting Spiritual

The Integraton looks like a 50-year-old sci-fi movie set. Located in Landers, CA, about 20 miles north of the park, and built in 1954, this geodesic structure is a well-known sound bath and a historically recognized place for rejuvenation.

While it’s said to be created according to the design direction of extraterrestrials, the Integraton is worth a visit whether you believe in life beyond our planet or not. I’m pretty open-minded, but can’t quite wrap my head around aliens as art director. If nothing else, its Instagram-ability is reason enough to go.

The Integraton is built on a powerful intersection of geomagnetic forces which is thought to amplify the earth’s magnetic field. The 60-minute sound bath experience promotes sonic healing and total relaxation. As you might imagine, it’s highly popular and needs to be booked well in advance.

Is it all bit woo-woo? Yes! But that’s part of why I’m here. I want to get out of my light-polluted city and into a different mental state. I’d like to explore the desert in all of its glory. If that happens to include lying down under a blanket with 40 strangers in a sci-fi movie-esque, alien-engineered, geo-dome that’s miles from civilization, sign me up.

The experience is, umm, different. I wish I could say I felt the powerful forces of the earth’s magnetism beneath me. I wish I felt electrically charged and noticeably changed afterward. Perhaps I’m not evolved enough. Wearing a face mask didn’t help my breathing technique and someone next to me was snoring. I won’t name names. Enrico.

Jokes aside, it’s an intriguing experience I’d like to do again (sans facemasks) someday. The dome is so ET-friendly that I’m afraid it might get sucked up into space before I get a chance to revisit it.

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Where to stay

Airbnbs are prevalent in Joshua Tree. So much so that the New York Times recently wrote an article begging the question “Is 1,818 Airbnbs Too Many in Joshua Tree?” Our Airbnb, Tierra Del Sol, is so remote we get lost driving the dirt roads back to it at night. To think there are 1,817 others nearby is mind-boggling.

Yet, there’s little doubt the modern desert aesthetic has been rebranded in Joshua Tree, partially due to Instagram and a boom of COVID-induced domestic travel. The ‘Joshua Tree look’ is pretty hard to dislike, especially for those of us on the east coast who don’t live near nude-shaded landscapes with dried botanical gardens and cowhide rugs.

The ‘Joshua Tree look’ can be summed up as boho, high-desert swank sprinkled with bleached-out antlers, hand-woven baskets, rattan poofs, and cowboy hot tubs. That summation is a bit wordy but necessary for accuracy.

Fireplace mantles are oh-so-perfectly staged with stone buddhas, cacti, crystals, and local pottery. Tack on Wolf ranges and Miele built-in coffee machines and you’d think Design Within Reach changed its creative model to Eat-Pray-Love-homestead chic.

Some Airbnbs accessorize their properties with pétanque courts, stand-alone lounges, and windswept, curtain-lined, wedding chapels.

Others boast low eco-footprint, energy-efficient, zero waste accommodations alongside giant gas-lit fire pits.

Others are practically invisible.

PC: The Invisible House

The Invisible House

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the overwhelming, overpublicized, and overpriced Invisible House.

Mirroring nature—and I mean literally mirroring nature, this $4050/night property is set on 90-desert acres. It has, among other amenities, its own 4,000 ft. mountain and 100 ft. indoor pool. It’s a visual feast for those who don’t mind the mountainous price tag.

PC: The Invisible House

The 5500 sq. ft. 22-story horizontal structure sleeps only six, but if you have more guests, fear not. They can stay in the 720 sq. ft. pre-fab ‘escape pod’ somewhere else on the property. Just don’t expect them to still be your friends afterward.

Don’t want to shell out $4050 a night for a weekend at Joshua Tree’s Invisible House? No worries, it can be all yours for the bargain price of $1,750 an hour. Instagram it and get out.

Desert Vintage circa 1975

Airstreams in Joshua Tree are all the rage, not to mention a way to get up close and personal with the desert. The features that accompany some of these vintage trailers are as unusual as the surroundings themselves.

PC: Airbnb

Some Airstreams have swinging queen sized-beds for stargazing. Others have metal barrel hot tubs, outdoor living spaces, and raised wooden decks adorned with twinkling fairy lights. Really? Who needs the fairy lights when you have the starry skies above?

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Where to eat

The beauty of an Airbnb stay is the ability to cook your own meals. It’s simultaneously a downfall for those who go on vacation to not cook. As always, balance wins. We decide to eat a few lunches out but have breakfasts and dinners in. This turns out to be a hidden blessing as there’s no way we’d be able to find the house at night anyway. This is an International Dark Sky Zone, mind you.

One night a local chef creates a feast for the birthday girl’s dinner, while other nights we grill, sit by the fire pit, and stargaze with a bottle of wine.

For those seeking ultra-fine dining, the desert is not the place for you. Most restaurants are casual and informal.

Worth a mention

La Copine: This 42-seat highway-side, uber-casual eatery attracts foodies for miles. And for good reason. Said to have the best fried chicken in the desert (am I the only one wondering where the chickens live in the desert?) the menu tackles items like artichoke toast, Spanish crispy rice, and duck confit among other culinary delights. Eclectic indeed, and highly sought after.

Pappy & Harriett’s: Go early or don’t go, in my humble opinion. But if you’re as hungry as I am when you arrive, everything will taste as if it’s prepared by a Michelin-starred chef.

A convivial hangout if there ever was one, Pappy’s is the place to listen to live music, dance, and throw back a pint of beer along with some baby back ribs. If you have to wait for a table—AND YOU WILL—you can pass the time in Pioneertown, conveniently located a short walk behind the restaurant.

Pioneertown is as cheesy as it sounds. Built as an old western movie set in the 40s, it has all of the expected kitsch from the General Store, Red Dog Saloon, and fancy soap goats. Ok, maybe that part is not expected. What’s a soap goat? Maybe you can find out. You’ll have lots of time to kill.

The Natural Sisters Cafe: The website reads “Food made with kindness, focus and love.” Who can argue with that philosophy? Known for vegetarian and plant-based wraps, sandwiches, and smoothies, this local eatery caters to the breakfast and lunch crowd. Located close to the Joshua Tree entrance, it’s an especially good spot to hit before you head into the park.

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Outside it’s America

On the last morning of our short weekend in Joshua Tree, I wake up before sunrise. On purpose. This is unusual for me. I value sleep more than just about anything, except perhaps wine and coffee.

I sneak outside just as the first rays are rising over the distant mountains, some of which are still snow-capped in March. The mountain range silhouette is razor-sharp on this unusually cold morning. I race back inside to grab a blanket (in shades of desert neutrals, naturally) wooly hat, and fuzzy birks. Desert cold is no joke.

It’s worth the early hour and cold feet. The scene illustrates why an Irish band would pay homage to the open spaces of America. I summon up the theatrical and melodic notes of Where The Streets Have No Name—the first song on the album. I stand still.

It’s written in the Stars

As I write, the haunting harmony of The Joshua Tree envelops me—this time tangle-free on my wireless AirPods and iPhone 13. The music is as ethereal and transporting as it was then. But now I listen to it through the framework of Joshua Tree—the place.

What connected me to the music back then is realized decades later on the deck of this gorgeous desert house. The soundtrack of my teenage life comes back with a roar. Milky blue desert skies and cracked riverbeds are lyrical elements of U2’s best-selling album. They define the music and this vast landscape, but also a state of mind. I vow to see the park again one day to spend more time absorbing it.

When I do, I’ll make sure I eat first.

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May 23, 2022

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