I am Lost and Found

Category: Stay in North America

What’s Love Got To Do With It? At Wolf Cove Inn, Everything.

Historic Maine inns are some of the last vestiges of simple and timeless country gatherings. Whether as a natural stop on the way to a big city or as a place to break up a long road trip, the classic Maine inn is as quintessential as a Maine lobster. So when millennial innkeepers Geoff and Nicole Skidmore decided to buy Wolf Cove Inn, they didn’t miss a beat turning it into a destination that honors the past but walks headfirst into the now.

Follow me to Wolf Cove Inn, where love is found in the details.

They say a loon’s call echoing across a glassy lake at dusk is one of nature’s most haunting sounds. One that leaves an imprint in your mind. During our two nights at Wolf Cove Inn, we see the loons, yet they remain silent. They glide unhurried and unbothered across Tripp Lake in pairs, like long-lost lovebirds.

Wolf Cove Inn, located in Poland, Maine, is a modern-day love story that unfolds in unexpected ways. There’s the love of the bucolic property—a Maine inn that was brought back to life by California transplants, Nicole and Geoff Skidmore. There’s family love, as Nicole and Geoff discovered they were pregnant with their son while finding Wolf Cove. Then there are the inn’s signature micro-weddings, which quietly celebrate love.

And, there are the loons. Who doesn’t love the loons?

Love is sprinkled throughout the property like fairy dust. It manifests in ways big and small. Whether as a boat house ‘Romance Dinner’, a private lakeview sauna oasis, an elopement, or a photo op in a tandem swing with your favorite person. Wolf Cove Inn has declared love a core value.

Nicole and Geoff have redefined the image of a stuffy historic Maine inn, essentially flipping the script, right down to the dinner soundtrack.

Saying Goodbye to Hollywood

Love is so naturally sewn into the fabric of Wolf Cove because it was a romantic endeavor from the start. In 2021, Geoff decided to leave his job at Disney Motion Pictures in California, unfulfilled by the remote post-pandemic setup. One weekend, he and Nicole left their tech-filled worlds behind to tackle Washington’s Mt. Rainier. It was somewhere between miles 40 and 50 that kick-started a heartfelt conversation. What did they want to do with their lives?

Nicole comes from an innkeeping background, her paternal grandparents having previously owned a B&B on Cape Cod. This connection sparked a passion for the hospitality industry that was destined to come full circle.

A dream started to take shape, and soon they were scouring the country for an inn to call their own, inviting Nicole’s dad, Bruce, to partner with them. It was during this arduous and lengthy process that they discovered Nicole was pregnant. Little did they know how soon they’d be parenting two needy babies, Aiden and Wolf Cove.

Maybe it’s because so much tenderness went into creating Wolf Cove Inn, or because their son was brought into the world there, that the underlying tones are so intrinsically sentimental.

Geoff calls the innkeeping experience one of passionate progress. Always evolving, growing, and changing. Hmmmm, that sounds a lot like raising a child.

In and Around Wolf Cove

Wolf Cove has thirteen thoughtfully designed rooms, including the newly renovated Deer Isle Suite and a standalone cabin called the Eagle’s Nest. We stay in Deer Isle. It’s complete with a full kitchen, private backyard patio entrance, an art installation wall that channels Mother Nature, and a host of other amenities.

All the rooms are named with Maine in mind, Acadia, Cadillac Mountain, and Moosehead Lake, to name a few. Some have hot tubs, fireplaces, and cushy king beds. A select few are dog-friendly. The Eagle’s Nest is nestled between tall pines and has panoramic lake views.

Geoff tells me they have plans to upgrade the rooms over time, taking care to evolve and refine while never loosening their grip on the guest experience. It’s a labor of love. And as every parent knows, maturity takes time and patience.

Millennial Experiences Aren’t Just for Millennials

Geoff is a natural storyteller. I admire his talent for capturing slice-of-life moments: Aiden chasing their dog Luna across the lawn, a peek inside the fabulously-curated sauna oasis experience, or poking fun at the trials and tribulations of innkeeping.

Geoff catches these moments in a way that is endearing and relatable. Then, after a long day tending to guests’ needs, overseeing the property, and a host of other tasks, he goes home and starts uploading to Instagram and TikTok. Nicole’s job also continues—a toddler is a round-the-clock undertaking. Many of Wolf Cove’s reels have gone viral, amassing thousands of views and followers. The life of a millennial innkeeper is always IRT.

Nicole and Geoff’s relatability is what makes this Maine inn especially unique. I’ve been to many inns, yet I can’t remember one where the hosts were so visible and accessible. Geoff and Nicole are intentional with Wolf Cove Inn. Every aspect has been thought through. Guest movements are anticipated. The pace flows naturally.

They’ve also somehow discovered what many historic inns lack—that true hospitality lives in the details. That the guest experience is more than a comfy bed and an in-room Nespresso machine. And that bridging the traditional and the new can only be accomplished with good old-fashioned hard work. They do this all while chasing Aiden, their toddling innkeeper-in-training.

Setting the (Instagrammable) Scene at Wolf Cove Inn

At Wolf Cove, the lake and its ever-present birdlife add to the rhythm of our stay. With the help of my Merlin app, I hear Bay-Breasted Warblers, Pine Warblers, and Chipping Sparrows among other species. Birdsong is Wolf Cove’s built-in soundtrack—best listened to while taking advantage of their picture-postcard views and Instagrammable nooks and crannies.

Tripp Lake, rimmed with uninterrupted pines and cast in silhouette at dusk, is cinematic. A trellised arch overlooks the water, perfect for a golden-hour photo. A red-roofed barn rests across the hill, as if lifted from an American folk painting. Colorful buoys hang playfully from a white-shingled boathouse, while canoes and Adirondack chairs wait on the shore—everywhere you turn, it’s one frame-worthy scene after another.

Beyond Bed and Breakfast

Wolf Cove Inn uses local purveyors for just about everything. The all-day coffee station beans come from 44 North and are best savored on the sun porch in a handmade mug from local potting duo Kristen and Joe Camp. Campfire Pottery creates the tableware we dine on each night, which is as hearty and artful as the meals.

Unlike other Maine inns, Wolf Cove takes its culinary program beyond breakfast. Executive Chef Kevin Peters spent time at both Blue Hill in New York and Noma in Copenhagen. At Wolf Cove, he returns to his Maine roots to take charge of the dining experience. Whether enjoying his signature free-form vegetable lasagna with its handmade sheets of pasta and ultra-delicate béchamel, or his bold short rib and bone marrow ragu, each bite is infused with, you guessed it, love.

Whisk and Butter make the Wolf Cove Inn love story even sweeter. After dinner, we devour their dark chocolate caramel sea salt cake, topped with chocolate ganache, before we sit by the lake listening for the elusive loons. As if in consolation, an owl hoots weakly. Appeased, I head to our suite and sink into a deep sleep.

The Boat House Bistro is the Original Love Shack

I ask Geoff how the Boat House Bistro came into being, and his answer surprises me, although it shouldn’t. He tells me it came from an Instagram post.

“Social media just freaked out about it,” Geoff says with a smile. He had shot video of the 20-square-foot space, an original boat house overhanging the lake, and unknowingly created a viral moment.

“Everyone wanted to know how they could book it. I knew we were on to something.” Geoff and Nicole’s constant drive to create and enhance means Wolf Cove Inn will continue to surprise guests.

The Boat House Bistro helped prompt an uptick in the culinary program at Wolf Cove Inn. What started as simple pizzas and chili dinners evolved into an elevated culinary program that sticks closely to Maine. It’s the ultimate intimate, private dining experience—naturally enhanced by the lakeside scene, the orange-tinged sunsets, and the loons’ eerie call.

In the Name of Love: Micro-Weddings and Elopements

There’s something undeniably romantic about choosing to elope. Not out of haste or rebellion, but with intention. To strip away the expectations and the crowds. To focus only on what (and who) matters most.

Maybe it’s the stillness of Tripp Lake, the loons, or the way the light catches the pines at golden hour, but Wolf Cove Inn seems to be made for elopements and micro-weddings. Perhaps it’s Nicole’s golden touch, her attention to every detail, and gift for inspiring romance.

Wolf Cove offers wedding and elopement packages to help couples curate and commemorate the first day of their lives together. This is Nicole’s sweet spot. And after seeing a few of the ceremony locations, I’m tempted to renew my vows. My husband takes to the idea exactly as I expect, then readily agrees to paddle me to the middle of the lake so I can search for eagles. Mission accomplished.

Love Conquers All

At dusk, Tripp Lake looks like glass. A hush falls over the landscape, and the conical spires of evergreens are backlit by the setting sun. I try to manifest a loon—a long, mournful, distant wail calling to his partner, “I’m here, where are you?” he will cry. Moments later, she will respond. “I’m over here. Find me.” It’s solitude, peacefulness, and yearning, all wrapped up in one long, amorous note. But not today, which is fine. Another reason to return to Wolf Cove.

Before we get on the road, I ask Geoff one last question: ‘What do you ultimately want here?’ He thinks for a moment, then replies, “In this little remote part of Maine, I want to create the unexpected. Something that creates a sense of FOMO. Something that gets people to stop scrolling and say, ‘Whoa, that’s different, that’s unique.’ I’d really love that.”

At its core, Wolf Cove Inn is a love story. A series of love stories. Not only between people, but between place and its purpose, old and new, between stillness and sound.

This historic Maine inn is waiting. Head north and find it.

Saying ‘I do’

Wolf Cove makes tying the knot with your favorite peeps picture perfect by offering Inn Buyout Wedding Packages. They can accommodate up to 50 guests for an intimate and beautiful lakeside ceremony. Click here to learn more!

Disclaimer: Although Wolf Cove Inn kindly hosted me for my stay, all opinions stated are my own. As always, I’ll only recommend places I fully believe in.

June 10, 2025
3 Sensational Summer Days in Stowe: A Vermont Secret No Longer
Think Stowe is only for leaf peepers and ski bums? Let me introduce you to summer—my favorite season in Stowe. Sure, it’s not even spring yet, but it’s never too early to plan for summer. Read on for inspiration—what to do, where to hike, eat, drink, and stay. Discover some off-the-beaten-path places only locals know about, like eerie covered bridges and how to sniff out the best coffee in town. Ready to take on Vermont’s not-so-best-kept secret?

I round the bend, obeying the speed limit like the rule follower I am. Mac’s Market appears on my left, marking the spot where, for a mile or so, Route 100 becomes Main Street. I stop at the intersection of Main and Mountain. A full stop. A deep breath. A smile.

Stowe’s Main Street is an apple pie-shaped slice of Americana. It transports me from my fast-paced city existence to a slow-paced country one. No matter the season, it feels like coming home. But in the summer, it feels like something else.

It feels green.

A Stowe for (almost) All Seasons

In the Fall, Stowe is an intense kaleidoscope of color. Reds, oranges, and yellows transform the landscape little by little each day. By winter, those harvest colors are replaced by blankets of white—a muted landscape marked by the woooosssh of a skier or the crunch of snow underfoot. Spring brings the mud, keeping tourists at bay. The village quietly regroups.

But in the summer, Stowe is a love letter to green—hunter, honeydew, laurel, lichen, moss, grass, forest, sage, and mint. In the summer, Stowe owns green. These greens have a distinct look, feel, and smell—layered mountains, freshly mown meadows, and forests thick with birch, elm, poplar, and hickory.

In Stowe, green is a vibe.

40 Summers of Stowe

Summer in Stowe isn’t the secret it was when I was a kid. Even today, it’s overshadowed by its bossy older siblings, Winter and Fall. I’ve been visiting Stowe for more than 40 years. Over the decades, the village has grown and changed, adding stores selling non-GMO granola, organic wines, and overpriced avocados. But at its core, it remains the same—a place to get reacquainted with Mother Nature, to embrace the simple life—and to recharge.

In Stowe, nature and adventure unfold in many ways. No two days are the same. Tackle winding, wildflower-filled trails and bike through overgrown forests. Lose yourself in the town’s galleries or seek out Scottish Highland cows to photograph. For those who believe the best adventures are savored, Stowe’s food scene will satisfy your cravings.

Are the Green Mountains of Stowe on your summer radar? Or, do you wonder if they hold enough to captivate you and your family? Read on for inspiration on how to spend three sensational days in Vermont’s prettiest village.

My Stowe Summer E-Guide: with all the links you need to plan your trip!

Day 1: What to do in Stowe

9am-ish: My brain doesn’t boot up until my first sip of coffee. For a small town, Stowe has multiple places I like to caffeinate (none of which ends in ‘bucks). Black Cap Coffee is powered by women pouring badass brews. Don’t be intimidated by the lines. These women move fast. And their coffee will kick start your first day in Stowe like a green flag at NASCAR.

I recently added a teaspoon of Chagaccino to my coffee order. Chaga is a medicinal mushroom rich in antioxidants and claims, among other health benefits, to lower blood pressure and stimulate immune systems. I’m all in for Black Cap’s Chagaccino cappuccino. But boosting immune systems comes at a price. Be warned!

10am: Sufficiently revved, I stroll Stowe’s picturesque Main Street. I stop at long-time faves like Shaw’s General Store and Bear Pond Books. Many of these independent businesses have been here since I was a kid.

I cross the street and dip into Farm Home Co, a home decor shop that, with its highly-curated wares, could just as happily live on Main Street, Sag Harbor. A few doors down is The Country Store, a home goods shop where I inevitably buy kitchen gadgets I don’t need. A Hasselback potato slicer catches my eye. I head to the register. Yes, we make Hasselback potatoes at least twice a year. Money well spent, indeed.

And this one time, at Ranch Camp

I take a hard turn at Mountain Road and walk through Stowe’s 150ft pedestrian-covered bridge. Dewey’s Bridge has been a village icon since 1973. I grab my phone. From here, the views of Stowe’s Community Church, the town’s crowned jewel, are postcard-worthy.

12pm: After a few (hundred) snaps, I beeline to Ranch Camp, a five-minute walk up the road. Part bike shop, part sandwich shop, part tap room, Ranch Camp has an entire menu worth devouring. For RC virgins, I strongly recommend The Rock. I’m a Ranch Camp expert, and I still can never not order The Rock.

The Rock is a protein bowl of perfect proportions—arugula and brown basmati rice with black beans and corn salsa, topped with an avocado sliced with surgeon-like precision (no doubt with a gadget they bought at The Country Store).

My Stowe E-Guide is filled with even more things to do. Click Here!

The Stowe Summer Trifecta: Nap, Dinner, Stroll

2pm: At this point in the day, I need one of three things: coffee, chocolate, or a nap. If chocolate is your pick-me-up, Lake Champlain Chocolates is nearby. Travel + Leisure named their hot chocolate ‘America’s Best.’ And no, hot chocolate isn’t just for winter.

5pm: If the sun is shining, grab an Adirondack chair and a microbrew and watch the world go by from the front lawn of Stowe Public House. This al fresco pitstop sometimes blends into dinner, so I book an early table at Plate just a few doors down. This California-inspired restaurant is always packed. But even if I forget to make a res, I grab a stool and enjoy my Hearts of Palm Vegan ‘Crab Cakes’ at the bar.

8pm: At summer’s peak, the sun remains high in the sky well past my bedtime. But I can’t pass up an after-dinner stroll along Stowe’s Rec Path. I catch it just behind the church for a last few breaths of green mountain air before I fall into a deep summer slumber.

Day 2: What to do in Stowe

9am-ish: Hidden in the far back corner of Baggy Knees Shopping Center, Woodland Bakery is the coffee and pastry shop no local wants you to know about. When I become a local, I will curse you for going there, but for now, be my guest!

The air inside Woodland is pure butter. I salivate like my black lab at dinnertime. The coffee quietly screams artisanal, and though Woodland isn’t only for coffee snobs, they’ll feel right at home. At Woodland, brews, brioche, and butter rule.

10am: It’s time to hike the Green Mountains Stowe is so well known for. Try Sterling Pond, which is accessed from the top of Smugglers’ Notch via a trailhead on Route 108—a moderate hike to an alpine pond. Or follow the same pass once used by outlaws and smugglers—Smugglers’ Notch Trail is near the Barnes Camp Visitor Center. This steep uphill hike winds through dramatic cliffs, enormous boulders, and forests.

If you have kids in tow, take them to Percy Farm’s yearly corn maze and enjoy the views while they get lost in the tall cornfields for a while.

For those who love waterfalls (who doesn’t love waterfalls?), Glen Moss Falls, located right off Route 100, is a picturesque stop. It’s more walk than hike, so don’t expect to burn off that brioche here. Bingham Falls, accessed from a marked trailhead along Route 108, rewards hikers with a dramatic cascade and inviting, albeit cold, layers of swimming holes.

An afternoon of brews, boutiques, and burgers

12:30pm: One of Stowe’s prettiest places to have lunch is the Ideltyme Brewery and Restaurant’s backyard garden. With its central, convivial, al fresco bar and simple bites like warm pretzel bread with pub mustard and fried pickles, it’s easy to whittle away a few hours in the sun with a flight of beer.

1:30pm: If you’re in Stowe on a summer Sunday, and I highly recommend that you are, walk from Idletyme to the farmer’s market. Weave in and around the tented vendors: popsicles, potstickers, and artisan popcorn. Herbs, herbal roots, and herbal-infused teas—it’s everything a village farmer’s market should be.

3:30pm: The Mountain Road is lined with standalone shops and boutiques. Archery Close is one of the best, with brands that elevate Vermont flannel like Amundsen, Marine Layer, and Faherty, as well as curated accessories and shoes.

There are two Coco Goose boutiques. I’m not sure why, but they’re both worth visiting. With brands I covet, like Nili Lotan, Ulla Johnson, Veronica Beard, and Herno, those Coco Geese certainly know their audience.

7pm: Warm summer nights in Stowe are made for Doc Ponds. Casual and lively, kick back with a cold craft beer, some cheddar fritters, and a burger with hand-cut fries. The vibe is effortlessly cool—with vinyl records spinning, picnic tables on the patio, and a steady hum of conversation. Whether you roll in from a day of hard-core hiking or hard-core shopping, Doc Ponds is a great place to end the day.

More hikes, more restaurants, more shopping. Click Here for my Stowe E-Guide!

Day 3: What to do in Stowe

9am: I’m not a yogi, yet I love the morning Yin Yoga class at The Swimming Hole. In Yin Yoga, you hold stretching poses until you almost fall asleep. I love to sleep. Yin Yoga is the yoga for me. The Swimming Hole also has a gym and a pool, where day passes are sold. This is an especially good option should your summer day start with some rain. Those Green Mountains don’t get green by themselves, remember!

10am: Walk or bike the 5.3-mile scenic trail that loops around town. The Rec Path path follows the West Branch of the Little River, crossing 11 low-arching bridges and ducking behind the Stowe Community Church. Each turn has a beautiful view of the landscape. Wildflowers line the trail and mountain views around every bend. Wear a bathing suit and take a picnic lunch with you. You’ll find plenty of spots to hang out beside the river.

1pm: Take a scenic drive to some of Stowe’s iconic and historic covered bridges and barns—snapshots of Vermont’s past. Gold Brook Bridge, aka Emily’s Bridge, comes with a ghost story. After being abandoned by her lover, legend has it that Emily met a tragic fate here. Red Covered Bridge, just outside town, is classic Vermont—bold, bright, and reflected in the slow-moving brook below.

Take a selfie with Parker’s Barn on Weeks Hill Road. Although the town gives funds to keep it standing, this iconic and dilapidated red barn’s days are numbered. The dozens of pigeons who live there should start looking for new lodgings.

Time to Splurge

2pm: A vacation isn’t a vacation without some decadent splurges. The Spa at Topnotch Resort is just what I need to soothe my weary body and soul after a few adrenaline-filled days. Topnotch’s Spa has been a favorite of mine for decades and offers classic treatments, from 25-minute spot massages to 80-minute deep tissue massages. But it has also changed with the times and has R&R CBD and Thai massages.

Don’t forget to book in advance—I’m not the only one who thinks the Spa at Topnotch is the best.

7pm: Edson Hill is just far enough from the bustle of town for those looking for a quiet place for drinks and dinner. The Tavern has brown leather couches and low post-and-beam ceilings that define coziness. The restaurant has modernized classic New England fare with a seasonally changing menu. Views are photo-worthy in every direction—a culinary standout in Stowe.

This Stowe day trip comes with a scoop of Cherry Garcia. Click here to learn more.

A Stowe Hotel for Everyone

Finding the right place to stay in Stowe in summer depends on your vibe—are you here to unwind at the spa, explore every mountain trail, or just soak in the small-town ambiance with a cocktail?

For the Romantics:

Edson Hill is as elegant as it gets in Stowe. Set on 38 rolling acres, this beautiful and romantic spot has eight Manor House rooms and 15 guest houses, each oozing sophistication and antique charm. Four poster beds with crisp white linens, fireplaces, velvet couches, and standalone soaking tubs may mean you never leave the room. But, those who do will be rewarded, as the property has wildflower-filled walking trails, horse stables, and a bucolic pond.

For the Spa-Goers:

Topnotch Resort & Spa is for those who want luxury without the pretense. Tucked into the mountains, Topnotch has topnotch views, an award-winning spa, and an outdoor pool that begs for lazy afternoons. Whether you’re booking a tennis lesson, indulging in a deep tissue massage, or sipping wine by the fire pit—lean into relaxation at Topnotch.

For the Best Village Location:

The Green Mountain Inn is a quintessentially Stowe inn located on Main Street in the heart of Stowe village. It’s quaint, cozy, and packed with old-world charm—only steps away from shops, restaurants, and the Rec Path. With its creaky floors, afternoon tea, and kind hospitality, you’ll feel like a regular, even on your first visit.

The Green Mountains are Calling

‘Stowe’s such a small town—do you ever get bored?’ I sometimes get asked. No, never. Not in 40 years. But feel free to ask me again in ten.

It’s hard to get bored in a place where the morning fog continuously reshapes the scenery, where the Green Mountains often take on layers of blue, and where I’ll never exhaust the hiking trails and summit views. Where I feel green.

I might get bored of my go-to grain bowl at Ranch Camp. But I doubt it.

My $10 Stowe E-Guide has even more fabulous places to stay. Click Here!

My Interactive Stowe Map

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android
Ready to travel—but can’t find the time to plan?

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After visiting 70 countries on 7 continents, I know how overwhelming travel planning can be.

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My research. Your adventure.
February 26, 2025
Eagles Soar At Wildflower Farms. So Will You.

Wildflower Farms, an Auberge property in New York’s Hudson Valley, is the antidote to city life. Discover why it’s on everyone’s hot list.

Ryan puts our bags in the back of the motorized cart. Our bungalow is a short walk away, but it’s drizzling, so we welcome the ride. After a few social niceties, ‘Where are you from?’ ‘Is this a girls’ trip?’ ‘Are you sisters?’ Ryan slams the brakes. “I just saw a bald eagle—want to see his nest?” My jaw drops. Does my 16-year-old niece want to meet Taylor Swift? “Yes!” we say in unison. Ryan kicks the cart into gear.

So begins our wildlife-filled weekend at Wildflower Farms. My friend and I have come to this Hudson Valley resort to relax before the upcoming chaos of our sons’ high school graduations. I’m happy, but it’s a bittersweet happiness. That we see a bald eagle guarding her nest within minutes of our arrival seems timely. Symbolic, even.

I’m on the cusp of a major life change—the dreaded empty nest. As melodramatic as it sounds, this eagle sighting becomes a soppy, emotional metaphor for my stay. I have three days in the Hudson Valley to contemplate it.

The Hudson Valley—a Natural Getaway

The Hudson Valley is New York’s fastest-growing hot spot. Boutique hotels pop up like spring daffodils, luring New Yorkers from the concrete jungle. Only 90 minutes from the city, it’s a natural getaway. With deep roots in farming and agriculture, the Hudson Valley has some of the oldest wine-producing areas in the country. It has a thriving food and farmer’s market scene and challenging mountains to hike. The scenery is so bucolic it inspired the Hudson River School, a group of painters whose muse was the verdant landscape.

The Hudson Valley is a destination for art and nature lovers, history buffs, and gourmands. Wildflower Farms couldn’t be better placed to satisfy them all. But be warned. Guests will be hard-pressed to leave the property. The only way to do it all is to build in more time.

The Birth of an Art Movement

One reason guests flock to Wildflower Farms is its delicate balance between indoor and outdoor living. Another is the chance to walk in the footsteps of 19th-century artists like Thomas Cole and Frederic Edwin Church. Among other Hudson River School artists, their romantic vision of the landscape was born and cultivated in this very place. Focusing on three themes of Americana: discovery, exploration, and settlement, the movement’s goal was to portray a place where humans and nature could peacefully coexist.

Although Wildflower Farms caters to the well-heeled city crowd, the parking lot license plates prove people come from farther afield. Black, navy and gray apparel appear to be the uniform of choice, offset by squeaky clean, neon-colored Hokas. Despite the moody apparel and dark skies, Wildflower Farms is inherently bright. The staff seems to be living under an ever-moving sunbeam. Chipper, but not annoyingly so. Welcoming, but not overly eager.

Click here for my FREE Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet

The Aerie

Ryan is spot-on. We find the eagle sitting in a tall Eastern White Pine beside her nest. Thankfully, Ryan had the wherewithal to stop at our cottage so we could grab our binoculars. They aren’t necessary. The aerie is so big LeBron James could use it for his pre-game nap. Fun fact: aerie is a fancy word for eagle’s nest. I have Will Shortz to thank for this tidbit of bird trivia. It’s one of his favorite New York Times crossword clues.

I see the eagle’s beady, honey-colored eyes through the lens, but I don’t need them to feel her intense stare. Is she counting down the weeks until her eaglets fly away? Is she sad? What will she do with all her downtime once they leave? I told you this would get soppy. Don’t judge until your kids fly the coop.

Welcome to Grand Central Station

An oversized open-air central firepit area called The Great Porch is the entry point of Wildflower Farms. It’s also the resort’s social and culinary hub. We go there for morning cappuccinos, rosé-infused lunches, and pre-dinner cocktails—all complemented by majestic Shawagunk mountain views. Banquettes circle the ever-blazing firepit. Should it be chilly, like during our stay, woolly blankets are within reach.

One morning, a black Suburban ambles up to reception. The trunk pops open, and two big doodles tumble out. Within minutes, water bowls, treats, and two cushy dog beds are placed fireside. The doodles look unfazed—as if this kind of treatment happens wherever they go. I notice their matching Valentino Rockstud collars. Maybe it does.

You Belong Among the Wildflowers

Sixty-five freestanding cabins and cottages are scattered throughout Wildflower Farms’ 140 acres in Gardiner, New York. Deceptively simple from the outside, each cabin is a highly curated gem. I can’t stop humming Tom Petty’s classic tune. I belong here.

The cabins are a destination unto themselves—beautifully appointed and chock full of welcoming treats, like shears for cutting flowers and a miniature glass vase to display them. The Bower Cabins are situated under a canopy of trees and have outdoor spaces to admire the scenery, birdwatch, and listen to the sounds of nature.

Meadow Cottages have vaulted wooden ceilings, wood-burning fireplaces, and private back gardens with daybeds facing the meadow. One morning, instead of racing to breakfast, I open the sliding glass doors to take in the breeze and the view. At Wildflower Farms, I’m constantly reminded to slow down.

Cabin interiors mirror the landscape in ways that would make the Hudson River School painters proud. A moss-green velvet couch sits on top of a stormy-blue patterned rug. A patchwork quilt that looks anything but old-fashioned is draped across a contemporary wood-framed bed. It’s Modern Americana. The rooms are light-filled and airy, with local artisan touches, hand-chosen books, and an inviting window seat to read them.

What to do at Wildflower Farms

Wildflower Farms Resort is like a sleepaway camp for grown-ups. Crafty on-site activities include watercolor classes, floral focaccia baking, botanical mixology, and pressed flower pottery workshops. There are opportunities to make body oils and perfume, shear sheep, take a sound bath, and unlock the astrological secrets of your birth chart.

Off-property activities are equally enchanting: fly fishing, hiking, mountain climbing, and cycling for the active-minded are offset by the treasure trove of wellness experiences at the Thistle Spa. For those who’d rather relax, Body Botany, Restorative River Stone Massage, and the Remodeling Facial are a few of the many treatments they offer. I learn that the spa uses ‘hand-harvested, small-batch oils with floral remedies.’ Bravo, Wildflower, I expect nothing less.

Two outdoor hot tubs, an indoor pool, a relaxation area with platform daybeds, and a sauna are dreamy ways to pass the day, rain or shine. Complimentary yoga classes and a gym are offered in a nearby cottage overlooking a quiet pond. For those who want to splurge, a sailboat can take up to six guests on the Hudson River for a decadent champagne picnic.

Farm to Pocket to Table

Set in the heart of the Hudson Valley, the traditional farm aspects of the property don’t feel contrived. Visitors can opt into as much or as little ‘farm life’ as they’d like. For instance, each morning, guests are invited to feed the farm animals and collect eggs. Later, they can take the eggs to Clay, Wildflower’s restaurant, and have them prepared ‘your way’ for breakfast.

I close my eyes and delicately reach under a fat hen, trying to decide ‘which way’ I want my eggs prepared for breakfast. It’s still raining. But if the chickens aren’t bothered, then neither am I. Move over, Sarah Jessica Parker; I can be a farmer when I want to be. I’m baffled but not surprised when one pushy woman fills her pockets with six eggs, leaving many of us eggless. I resist the urge to accidentally bump into her shiny Moncler vest, hoping karma will prevail.

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Restaurant Clay

Clay, named for the rich soil where Wildflower’s vegetables are grown, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Its enormous yet intimate dining room has a stone fireplace, vaulted ceilings, and a unique seating layout.

Over our three days, I’m determined to sit in them all: the low, curved-back chairs that flank the central fireplace, the high-top tables with a bird’s-eye view into the kitchen, and the convivial banquettes that line the outer walls. Rugs, throw pillows, and upholstery patterns that shouldn’t look good together somehow do and reinforce why I will never be an interior designer.

My traveling companion is plant-based. Executive Sous Chef Kyle Chandler takes this as a personal challenge, creating culinary magic with plants, flowers, and vegetables. I’m secretly envious of her flower and herb-infused Pad Thai entrée, a dish created solely for her that evening. We share the light-as-air sweet potato tempura served with togarashi aioli and basil three nights in a row. Yes, they were that good.

Other menu highlights include farm-roasted carrots with tamarind and watermelon radish, and halibut accompanied by Brussels sprouts, pecans, and lemon. Yet, I will forever associate the humble olive oil pancake with our stay. The size of a standard-issue frisbee, topped with berries and a large dollop of lemon chantilly, it has forever ruined me for breakfast. I have no doubt that everyone who orders it swears it’s too big to finish—then completely devours it.

My Best Friend, Merlin

The rain allows me to experience Wildflower Farms in ways I didn’t anticipate. Instead of sitting by the pool with my nose buried in a book, I open the wide glass doors of our cabin and do pilates while watching mist fall on the meadow. I spot the eagle in a distant tree, this time with her mate. ‘Who’s guarding the nest?’ I wonder. Reading my mind, she takes flight. I watch her wingspan unfold in absolute awe as she soars over my head and out of frame.

The weather doesn’t stop us from exploring the property’s meandering trails. I use my Merlin Bird ID app without fear of ridicule, as my kids are hundreds of miles away. At one point, Merlin picks up seven different bird species chirping at once. If there’s ever a place to embrace your inner birder, Wildflower Farms is that place.

Yet, birds aren’t the only wildlife we see in the Hudson Valley. On one of our morning walks, a large cotton-tailed deer hops across our path. Another afternoon, we see a gray fox on the hunt. I revert to my love of collective nouns and discover that a group of eagles can be called an aerie, a convocation, or a soar. A group of foxes is called a skulk. A female fox is called a vixen, and male foxes are called dogs (how apt!). Who has this coveted collective noun naming job? I want to apply.

The Empty Nest

On our last morning at Wildflower Farms, I’m sitting fireside at The Great Porch when a spectacular thing happens—the sun comes out. I throw off my woolly blanket, abandon my cappuccino, and dash outside to take photos. The clouds part, and a double rainbow ekes its way through them. Gold cascades over the meadow, lighting the tips of the grasses. I see the doodles running amok. The rainbows arch over Wildflower Farms in a way that looks AI-generated. I watch them until they disappear.

There’s only one thing to do before the drive home. I grab my binoculars and walk towards the aerie, excitedly anticipating my last encounter with the eagles. I wait and wait, but they’re a no-show. The waiting gives me time to wallow in my soon-to-be empty nest sadness. Maybe it’s time to look at it in a new light.

An empty nest will give me more opportunities to visit places like Wildflower Farms. More chances to observe animals in their natural habitats (including ones wearing Chloé and Celine). And more chances to explore, discover, and settle—just like the Hudson River School painters did over a century ago.

Upwards and onwards. It’s time to let go.

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May 29, 2024
Is Amangani the Best Lodge in Jackson Hole?

We were well on our way to Amangani when I saw ‘WOAH’ on a red octagonal sign that would normally read ‘STOP.’ We’d been in Jackson Hole for a total of 30 minutes. Little did we know that ‘Woah!’ would become the buzzword of this trip among the Teton mountains. Amangani, here we come.

Nerves of Steel, in Jackson Hole

There have been precious few trips where wildlife has played a central role in our experience. Safari in Botswana was certainly one of them, and gorilla tracking in Uganda was another. Closer to home, but no less adventurous, was Jackson Hole, Wyoming. The impetus of the trip was three days of hiking in Jackson Hole’s Teton Mountain Range, planned by my husband, Daniel. I was nervous, I’ll admit now. Not only nervous the hiking would get the best of me physically, but the bears. I was nervous about the bears.

Those who have grown up in the West might find my fears amusing. As a former New Yorker, I was never afraid of being mugged or subway rats—but bears were another story. Being born and raised in the metropolitan northeast, where my most grizzly encounters were with the squeegee guys at the Lincoln Tunnel, the West meant ‘wild’. Frankly, I wasn’t sure I was cut out for it.

Softening the blow, my husband cushioned the trip by booking Amangani. Having spent time at Amangiri in Utah a few years ago, we knew we were in for a decadent experience.

Bear Spray Rentals, in Jackson Hole

After touching down at Jackson Hole Airport, we headed to baggage claim. At the carousel, I spotted a kiosk called ‘Bear Spray Rentals.’ What a clever name for a car rental service, I thought. It took another beat to register that the kiosk was actually renting bear spray. Did I mention that I spent all my adult life in big cities?

According to the attendant, bear spray is rarely used in Jackson Hole, as the bears want to hang out with us about as much as we do with them. That said, I rented a can of bear insurance and went on my merry way.

As a barometer for the kind of scenery we were in for, I needed only to look out the car window. If it’s this scenic at the airport in Jackson Hole, we were in for something pretty spectacular. The airport was named a national monument in 1943 and merged with Grand Teton National Park a few years later. I also discovered that the airport is ‘a popular mating ground for the sage grouse.’ Good local knowledge. I was fitting in already.

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At Amangani, it’s love at first WOAH!

Amangani is low-profile and high-impact, an architectural style we have noticed at many Aman properties. Perched upon a hilltop, with illustrative snow-capped mountain views in the distance (even in July) and green pastures of cows below, Amangani’s vibe is modern rustic lodge-chic. The exterior is a lovely combination of redwood and stone and sits ever-so-comfortably in its surroundings.

A small pond on the grounds, which later became a never-ending photo op, was a flourish on the bucolic scene. It acted as a backdrop to Jackson Hole’s glorious Grand Teton mountain range photos that changed with the light and mirrored the cloud formations that rolled past throughout the day. I was obsessively drawn to this spot, as is clearly evident from the absurd number of photos I took there.

Settling into Amangani

Upon entering Amangani, which means ‘peaceful home’, a grand, sweeping staircase welcomed us. The staircase led to a multi-level windowed wall that formally introduced us to the landscape. Hello, Tetons!

There were plenty of spaces to find quiet at Amangani. Comfy chairs were placed to maximize the panorama of the Snake River Valley, whether in the lounge, the airy central sitting area, or on our private room balcony. Native American touches, oversized sepia-tinted wildlife photography, painted cowhides, and textiles were displayed. Everything was placed with a designer’s touch.

A room for all seasons at Amangani

As tempting as it was to spend all of our time outside in Jackson Hole, the rooms at Amangani encouraged us to stay in. Being an all-season destination, the rooms at Amangani had as much to offer comfort-wise as we could wish for.

A raw-cut stone fireplace sat in the corner. The room’s centerpiece was a low platform bed, donned with crisp, white linens and a wooden headboard that went from floor to ceiling and continued its design onto the ceiling itself. Natural materials in shades of gray, ecru, and soft faux fur accents completed the ambient scene.

Were it not for the showstopper of a pool and the hiking ahead, I would have been hard-pressed to leave the walls of the lodge and head out into Jackson Hole at all.

To infinity and beyond, at Amangani

One of the hotel’s unique selling points was its nearly 400-square-foot heated outdoor infinity pool. The rectangular, blue-toned, mosaic-tiled pool spanned the entire length of the main lodge. It offered uninterrupted mountain views. The icing on the cake was the square, sunken hot tub that sat center stage along the pool’s top edge. Its idyllic location begged us to enjoy a bottle of champagne there.

The row of poolside loungers was a magical spot from which to watch the layers of blue sky evolve throughout the afternoon. Jackson’s jagged Teton mountains cut into the sky in the distance, and puffy cloud formations floated effortlessly in the foreground.

In Jackson Hole, it’s all about the views

A rickety wooden fence edged the perimeter. Beyond that, a steep slope led towards green fields and cow pastures. From our aquatic perch, the cows looked no bigger than ants in the Snake River Valley, and we dreamily watched them migrate across the pasture each day post-hike. My legs were rendered useless by then, and I was very happy to not have to use them for the remainder of the day.

The air was cool and dry. I watched red-tailed hawks crisscross the sky over our heads. An idyllic scene.

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Hiking Jackson Hole’s Cascade Mountain

At 6am, our alarm sounded. This was not my idea of a vacation. Although I knew that once I got going and had some caffeine, I’d be happy to start the morning. Daniel is obsessed with avoiding crowds. He hates parades, auctions, big parties, and just about any situation where he might have to converse with strangers. Hence, the early start time. I, on the other hand, am obsessed with avoiding bears and moose, and I’m told they like to get a jump start on their day around the same time.

According to our guidebook, Jackson Hole’s Cascade Canyon hike is majestic, adorned with a canopy of Douglas firs, sheer canyon walls, and Teton mountain views. However, it warned of the huckleberry bushes along the way that attract grizzlies. In this case, being first on the trail meant being first to greet the hungry huckleberry eaters. I took a long, deep breath, and we set off.

Grand Teton and Jenny Lake

Crossing Jenny Lake to get to the trailhead made the early wake-up worthwhile. The lake was flat and serene, mirroring the mountains and clouds, undulating ripples for as far as I could see. I quickly noticed that the few other passengers on the boat had bells, music, and whistles, to detract wildlife. We had nothing, so were told to keep up a steady, and loud conversation. Who has six hours of steady conversation after 17 years of marriage?

Noisy, gushing waterfalls, wooden footbridges, and enormous pines met us as we started our ascent. It couldn’t have been more beautiful and peaceful, especially since no one else was on the trail. We made it up the first steep pass to Inspiration Point, which offered uninterrupted views of Jenny Lake.

Finding our stride in Jackson Hole

We saw signs of bears, like tree trunks that had been used for sharpening claws, but thankfully, no actual bears. Daniel walked ahead carrying the bear spray, which was a clever ploy to get me to keep up with his faster pace. The 13.6-mile round-trip journey took us through spots called Paintbrush Divide and Hidden Falls, which looked as illustrative as their names implied. Birds of prey glided in the breeze overhead.

Wyoming’s snow-capped Grand Teton welcomed us in the distance like a beacon. I might have smirked more than once on our hike back towards the lake as we passed hikers starting their climb as we finished ours. Thank you, Daniel.

Once again, my weary legs earned the right to sit at the pool’s edge and revel in the morning’s accomplishment, book in one hand, a refreshing drink in the other. With rewards like this, I could certainly get used to hiking.

Eat and drink, Amangani and beyond

While the town of Jackson Hole and Teton Village was only a fifteen-minute drive from the resort, we ended up going out for dinner only twice in five nights. It was too hard to leave the nest after a day of hiking and sun-soaking.

The dining room at the Amangani Lodge was ambient and moody, with a menu with enough variety to satisfy us for three dinners. As you might imagine, the windows played a large role in the setting, and it was hard to concentrate on anything when the views were as captivating as the Teton mountain range.

Jackson Hole’s Snake River Grill

One of our two dinners out in Jackson Hole was at the highly recommended Snake River Grill. We wondered if it could live up to the hype, as everyone I had spoken to about Jackson had waxed lyrical about it. The simple log cabin decor somewhat belies the elegance of the food. We were impressed from the first bite.

The menu at Snake River Grill was bold, with hearty meats like elk, beef cheeks, and pork shank. It also catered to the pescatarian and vegetarian, with options like a roasted cauliflower steak and sea bass. As has become a habit, when I am fully enthralled with a meal, I forget to take photos. I have since become a master at ‘mostly-eaten’ food photography. Take my word for it: the food looked appetizing when it arrived.

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Conquering Jackson Hole’s Delta Lake

The next morning came a little too soon, especially after a stomach full of elk, but I rallied, remembering the views and the scenery, forgetting, for a moment, about the bears. Daniel told me that we were going to hike to Delta Lake, a glacial lake at the base of Grand Teton.

What he didn’t tell me was that to access this hidden gem, we needed to take unofficial, unmaintained trails, navigate several steep boulder fields, and bypass fallen trees along a rocky precipice.

It’s tempting to say it wasn’t worth it—but I can’t lie. It was as if we were discovering another world deep inside the natural wonderland of the Tetons. After about three hours of hiking, we finally caught sight of the lake—Woah!

The lake was a luminous milky turquoise, the kind of color that is impossible to truly describe. I read later that Delta Lake gets its otherworldly hue from the glacial silt of the Teton Glacier. Wherever it gets it, I was sold. Hiking was my new favorite pastime, bears or not.

Al Fresco at Amangani

With day two of hiking (and surviving) behind us, we later celebrated with drinks outside on Amangani’s veranda. The fully stocked bar looked especially beautiful as the setting sun started to descend behind the glass bottles. Another pair of red-tailed hawks soared and circled above as if delicately sewn into the fabric of the scene.

In the distance, dark storms gathered. The air smelled heavy. As it came closer, it became a game of chicken—in which guests would abandon their seats first to take cover. The raindrops didn’t slowly trickle as much as they decided to whole-heartedly dump down on us at once. We dashed indoors.

The storm didn’t disappoint. Jagged lightning bolts took turns bolting, and thunder cracks intermittently cracked. Then, as dramatically as it had started—it stopped. The rainclouds were beyond us, heading towards and eventually obscuring Grand Teton before making their way swiftly across the range. What the storm left behind was a sky of violent color, dramatic clouds, and crisp mountain silhouettes. Woah.

Amangani-led safari

With a hiking reprieve the next day, we headed out with a guide on a land safari in Grand Teton National Park. Our guide was so full of information—about wildlife, mating calls, obscure species, flora, and fauna that I didn’t have the bandwidth in my brain to keep up. I tried to impress him with my mating knowledge of the sage grouse, but it seemed he was already up to speed. Show off.

I was excited for a break and a day of photographic soul food. Searching for wildlife from the safety of a car? Now, I was in my happy place.

Again, an early morning beckoned, as that is when the wildlife is easiest to spot. We immediately came upon a herd of lovely chocolate brown elk silently grazing in a barely sun-touched field. Soon after, we spotted a pair of bison on the road’s edge.

Bisons have an awkward body shape, with a massive hairy head and front quarters compared to their somewhat skinny, spindly hindquarters. I was taken by surprise when we witnessed these large mammals elegantly jump a fence to get more food. They are shockingly limber creatures!

The crowning moment of the morning, without question, was when we drove directly past an enormous grizzly bear grazing just off the side of the road. With wildflowers in the foreground and fields and mountains in the background, it felt like he had been planted there for camera-armed tourists like me.

We watched this lovely old grizzly slowly saunter around, munching plants, minding his own bucolic existence. Woah. It was one of the best wildlife moments of all time. When you have Jackson Hole, who needs Africa?

Tackling the Teton Mountains

It was inevitable that something would go wrong; we were in the wilderness, after all. Our third day of hiking started typically enough. We rode up the aerial tram to Rendezvous Mountain, where we were due to take a scenic 12-mile hike down to the base. Many had told us about the heavenly waffles that were sold at Corbet’s Cabin, just at the summit, and I bee-lined there as soon as we hopped off—energy for the hike ahead.

Again, a victim of half-eaten food photography, I had already inhaled their famous traditional brown sugar-buttered waffle before I remembered to snap it.

Although it was July, there was still snow on the ground in places, and some signage might or might have not been obscured. Or, we might have just missed the signs altogether. We got lost, found ourselves off the trail, my biggest nightmare, and to top it off, we had just descended a harrowing scree field that took all of my technical and physical energy.

As if that weren’t enough, I caught sight of a lumbering silhouette alongside the stream in the distance. Yes, I panicked. Yes, we argued loudly. The upside was that our shouting definitely kept the bear at bay.

After deciding to cut our losses and head back to the tram via the dreaded scree field we had just navigated (exponentially worse going up than down), we had still hiked about 10 miles, had an adventure, and gone nowhere. At least we had those famous buttery waffles.

Until next time, Jackson Hole

Sometimes, it is best to have not seen and done it all. To leave something behind for another day —a reason to return. The iconic male moose had eluded us those five days, even though our eyes were peeled for him at every turn. We had seen our fair share of wildlife in Jackson Hole, snow-capped Teton mountain views, and epic hiking adventures.

Until next time, Jackson Hole.

Author’s Update: Amangani will close in April of 2025 for extensive refurbishment and reopen in the summer of 2026.

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February 15, 2024
Blue Rock: A Beautiful Mini-Break in the Blue Ridge Mountains

A butterfly floats out from the greenhouse door as I walk in. Its pale amber and brown wings catch the breeze. Inside, the smell of ripe tomatoes fills the air—intoxicating in the way only farm-fresh vegetables can be. It’s early morning at Sunnyside, a farm in Washington, Virginia, just 90 minutes west of where I live in Washington DC.

Earlier, I’d spent time speaking with Sunnyside’s Vegetable Production Co-Manager at the Flint Hill Latin Market. Nik Kohl had Asian pears, tomatillos, purslane, herbs, and other vegetables simply displayed under a handwritten sign. A few of the ingredients were unfamiliar to me, like purslane, for instance. Its slightly sour taste reminded me of watercress. Little did I know this highly nutritious, tasty ‘weed’ I’d never heard of would make an appearance at my dinner later that night.

Destination: Blue Rock

I’m Blue Rock-bound. I’m on my way to discover first-hand why this five-bedroom inn and restaurant which sits on 80 acres of rolling hills is creating such a stir in Rappahannock County, Virginia. Bespoke farmhouse rooms, bucolic countryside views, and a vineyard-edged koi pond would normally be enough to pique my interest in a destination.

At Blue Rock, however, there’s another factor at play—Chef Bin Lu.

Bin Lu, formerly of DC’s Pineapple and Pearl fame, trades in his chef whites to take on the blue mountains of Virginia. Partnering with the Farm at Sunnyside, he takes farm-to-table dining one step further. Earth to table and then back to the Earth once more. A culinary cycle worthy of Mother Nature’s stamp of approval—set within a boutique farmhouse inn whose backdrop is the ever-idyllic Blue Ridge Mountains.

Rappa-where?

Not long ago, I couldn’t even pronounce Rappahannock, let alone find it on a map. Who am I kidding? I still can’t say it and I’d still be driving in circles if not for Google. That said, having Blue Ridge mountain towns like Washington and Sperryville within striking distance of DC makes Rappahannock County an uber-convenient mini-break destination.

Taking advantage of its rich, natural beauty, Rappahannock County is dotted with wineries, inns, and farmlands. It’s steeped in American history. “Rappahannock” comes from the equally difficult-to-pronounce Algonquian word lappihanne which translates to ‘where the tide ebbs and flows.’ Ahhh, Virginia—for poets as well as lovers.

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Blue Rock, The Inn

I’m visiting Blue Rock for one night only. And from the moment I walk onto the patio, I regret I don’t have one more. The mountains, layered in their namesake color, are mesmerizing. Blue Rock can certainly be a one-night destination, with fireside drinks, Chef Bin’s four-course menu, and a nightcap at the bar. But two nights would give me more time to savor it, I think, as well as a chance to wander the countryside and little towns.

Once a 19th-century working farm, Blue Rock has been converted into an inn with five stately and lovingly-designed rooms. Scene-stealing wallpapers adorn the walls, including one of my favorites by Cole&Son Fornasetti called Nuvolette.

A combination of cozy contemporary French-inspired furniture mixed with traditional accents and touches of bronze make each room an individual gem. With literary names like Walden, Thornton, and Hawkins, I want to come back with the latest Ann Patchett novel and try them all.

At Blue Rock, It’s All In The Details

The main house is classically beautiful, simple, and intimate. I admire the expertly-curated details as I walk around. A wooden chess board. A braided floor lamp. A stack of carefully chosen architecture books. In my room, I fall in love with the dark, slightly eerie, floral bathroom wallpaper, wishing I had the guts to be so bold in my own home.

Patterns overlap patterns that shouldn’t work together but somehow do. The artwork is clearly hand-picked—the kind of pieces I’d be giddy about if I’d found them at an estate sale. The discoveries go on as I linger in each room and explore the common spaces.

But perhaps the most intriguing area is the private dining room with its overly low, post and beam ceilings, overly tall fireplace, and garden-inspired wallpaper. The space has ‘celebration’ written all over it. With seating for up to 12 guests, the host can work with Chef Bin to create a menu destined to elegantly mark any milestone birthday or anniversary.

PC: Blue Rock

Meet Rappahannock County’s New Chef

Earlier in the day, I’d had a chance to meet Chef Bin. I asked him how he finds his inspiration for the menu. He told me, “Blue Rock is an expression of what is already here.” Another poetic sentiment. It’s clear the mineral-rich Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia have much to do with the food plated at Blue Rock. Chef Bin creates his distinct dishes around them.

Later, he tells me he often revises a dish as the night goes on—evolving the presentation and balance of ingredients in real-time. This is a stark contrast to the rigid, tweezer-plated meals some might come to expect with tasting menus of this caliber.

One Night and Four Courses at Blue Rock

Before dinner, I sit on a lawn chair to admire the late-setting sun with a cocktail from the bar. The vineyards and koi pond in the distance add multiple layers of beauty to the scene. I meet up with my friend and we head inside, excitedly anticipating the meal ahead.

An amuse-bouche of puréed greens as fresh as the farm itself appears first. No doubt some of the herbs and ‘weeds’ I saw at the farm market this morning have made their way into this energizing first taste.

The four courses that follow are alike in their refusal to be fussy, despite the pretty plating. Yet, they are wildly diverse in their flavors and textures. There are two options for each course, and in most cases, we divide and conquer in order to sample them all.

Choices Abound at Blue Rock

I start with a Warm Mushroom Chawanmushi. The menu tells me the herbs, vegetables, and greens are sourced from The Farm at Sunnyside. Until my recent dinner at Kappo Makoto, in DC, I’d never heard of this traditional Japanese dish. The balance of salty and sweet in Chef Bin’s interpretation of steamed egg custard is a pure expression of umami. My friend starts with the Ike Jime Fluke Crudo layered with pickled vegetables and tempura flakes that give the dish a subtle crunch.

The second course is a choice of Saffron Rice Pilaf with Tsar Nicoulai Trout Row and Sweet Corn Agnolotti with Button Chanterelles. I don’t know who Tsar Nicoulai is but his trout roe brings a supreme pop of color and flavor to the creamy rice. The pasta is equally flavorful and becomes my favorite bite of the night.

For the third course, I choose the Roasted Atlantic Halibut with Sauce Meunière because I’m intrigued by the accompanying zucchini millefeuille. The plating is approachable, not labored, and the sauce is just rich enough not to overpower the delicate fish. The ribbon of zucchini is a delicious and theatrical flourish.

Dinner is paced to perfection, giving us time to catch up and enjoy the well-chosen wine pairing. The room seats only 32 people, yet it has a convivial buzz. Twinkle lighting on the outdoor dining patio adds to the ambiance and view.

Blue Rock and The Farm, A Brilliant Partnership

The next morning, with Chef Bin’s four courses firmly behind me, I have time to reflect. I recall my conversation with Nik who’d told me about the relationship between Sunnyside and Blue Rock. While we had not left any food behind last night, if we had, all scraps and waste would have been returned to Sunnyside for composting.

Nik had told me the story of an unintentional experiment in composting. One season, they had only enough compost to fertilize half of their hot peppers. When it came time to pick them, the difference in growth was astonishing. The peppers which had had the benefit of the compost were nearly double the size of the non-composted peppers.

This brilliant food cycle benefits all involved—the planet, the produce, the farmer, the chef, and the diners. Did this make me feel even better about my meal at Blue Rock? Absolutely.

Coming Full Circle, at Blue Rock

Chef Bin Lu’s culinary finesse shines bright at Blue Rock. His dedication to sourcing unique ingredients from local farms speaks volumes about his commitment to flavor, nutrition, sustainability, and the dining experience as a whole. Blue Rock’s Earth-conscious philosophy extends beyond the plate, as it takes sustainable dining to new heights—creating a full-circle approach that epitomizes the notion that what we eat and where it comes from matters.

My Blue Rock mini-break was more than the sweet little inn and farmhouse dinner I’d expected. The combination of lovely rooms, tranquil views, and welcoming staff was only the beginning.

Chef Bin’s closed loop between Blue Rock and farms like Sunnyside makes the difference between having dinner and having a dining experience. Not a fussy, formal experience—but one filled with highlights between the courses.

One that allows for a touch of serendipity, a few surprises, and a yes, a bit of poetry.

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Disclaimer: Although Blue Rock kindly hosted me for my stay, all opinions stated are my own. As always, I’ll only recommend places I fully believe in. I fully endorse any affiliate links above.

October 5, 2023
This Pendry Hotel is Baltimore’s Ultimate Community Center

Community centers are public spaces where people gather for activities, social support, and public information. The introduction of radio, TV, and the internet may have downgraded the need for community centers, but they were local lifelines at one point. “What does this have to do with Baltimore’s Sagamore Pendry Hotel?” you might be asking. Be patient—I’m getting there.

Rec Pier: A Brief History

The Sagamore Pendry Hotel was originally a former cargo warehouse located at the top of Recreation Pier in Baltimore’s Fells Point neighborhood. ‘Rec Pier’ was once the hub of this waterside community. Over the century since it was built, Rec Pier served, among other things, as an immigrant landing point, meeting place, and dance hall—a center for community members, young and old.

The thriving pier and red brick Beaux-Arts building eventually fell into disrepair. It would take vast amounts of time, money, and vision to restore it to its maritime grandeur. With Kevin Plank, a Maryland native and founder of Baltimore-based Under Armour, at the heart of the narrative, the Sagamore Pendry’s roots as a community center are reimagined in vivid color. Every facet of the hotel pays tribute to its foundation as a place where people gather. It’s as if the ground itself has passed on its energy.

Kevin Plank and designer-in-chief Patrick Sutton return the Sagamore Pendry to a center for the community and a sanctuary for guests. Visiting the hotel is a lesson in history, art, music, architecture, and style. With the addition of welcoming and warm hospitality, there’s ample reason to visit Baltimore’s chicest city hotel.

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Welcome to Fells Point

Fells Point was a colonial maritime community founded by shipbuilder William Fell in 1726. More than 600 ships were built between the Colonial Era and the Civil War, including the U.S. frigate, ‘Constellation.’

The day I pull up to the Sagamore Pendry Hotel, I’ve yet to know its rich past, but I can certainly sense it. The area looks and feels historical—like I’ve stumbled back in time. Though historical, Fells Point has a distinct edge. With its vinyl record stores and oyster bars, I question whether I’m cool enough to be here.

I’m visiting the Sagamore Pendry for two nights—a solo trip. Two nights alone are the vacation equivalent of two weeks with anyone else. Don’t believe me? Ask any parent. Baltimore is only an hour from where I live in DC. Spending two nights getting to know the property and its historic surroundings appeals to the researcher in me. Admiring the art, architecture, and design appeals to my inner aesthete.

They say the streets of historic Fells Point are filled with restless spirits. For those who’d like to get under the surface of this maritime neighborhood where pirates once walked the cobbled lanes and Edgar Allen Poe found poetic inspiration, look no further than Baltimore Ghost Tours. The tour meeting point is only steps away from the Sagamore Pendry—a riveting way to uncover Baltimore’s eerie past.

A Likely Question

During my hotel travels, and by that, I mean traveling within the hotel, I meet Juan Webster. The general manager is easy to spot, being as comfortable in his castle as any reigning king. Juan’s genuine warmth and energy make him imminently likable.

“What makes the Sagamore Pendry Hotel so unique?” I ask him.

“It’s the people that make this place special,” he says without missing a beat.

My cynical side writes this off as a stock answer. Doesn’t every GM feel this way? Clearly, I need to hone my interviewing techniques. But then I recall meeting Rob this morning—the private investigator turned curbside valet. He told me he’d hung up his PI hat only to discover he wasn’t done working just yet. Greeting guests upon arrival suits his post-retirement lifestyle these days.

I gather Rob is one of the people Juan is referring to. My cynical side is about to take a beating.

Pendry?

Is this the first time you’ve heard of the Pendry? If so, consider this your formal introduction. Pendry is a luxury hospitality brand brought to life by founders Alan J. and Michael Fuerstman. This dynamic father-son duo is also responsible for Montage Resorts, which includes family getaways like Palmetto Bluff in South Carolina and Big Sky in Montana. Unlike Montage properties, Pendry Hotels are typically city-based. They purposely and purposefully lean into the local community in which they reside.

This is my first Pendry. And by the time I’ve said goodbye to Rob and my bags, I know it won’t be my last. Lyrics of the Star-Spangled Banner dominate the hotel entry, cut into an oversized metal latticework. Valet Rob mentions America’s most famous ballad was penned not 100 yards from where we are standing. Say what you will about Francis Scott Key, this anthemic welcome is hard to beat.

This Pendry Hotel is A Baltimore Icon

The dimly lit ramp towards reception is a sharp contrast to the Baltimore sun beaming brightly outside. Ever the puzzler, I begin to decipher the brass icons lining the narrow corridor. Maryland references like an Oriole, Edgar Allen Poe, an anchor, and a blue crab are pretty clear-cut.

But I’m stumped by three stacked rectangles. Is this an inside joke for Marylanders? Later I discover I was stumped by a stoop. Stooping, according to Urban Dictionary, is ‘the act of hanging out in a group of three or more on a stoop.’ Ahhhh, the three stacked rectangles represent the ubiquitous marble steps of Fells Points’ original rowhouses. In a world where we’re glued to technology and it’s too hot to go outside anyway, stooping is a lost art.

Visiting Washington DC? Click here for my Free Georgetown Hot Sheet

Pendry = Sophistication

If I had to describe the Sagamore Pendry Hotel with one adjective, it would be sophisticated. Thankfully, I’m a writer, and I can use all the adjectives I’d like, but I’d go as far as to say the Pendry Hotel ups the ante on sophistication. Follow as I tour the hotel, using adjectives galore to describe the highlights.

The Lobby Lounge

It seems every hotel these days differentiates itself with a signature scent, and in this way, the Pendry Hotel is no different. The blend of santal and cypress, with woody, amber-infused notes, creates a sense of memory Pendry hopes will stay with guests long after they leave the hotel. This can easily be facilitated, however, by buying a Pendry candle upon departure.

The Sagamore Pendry’s lobby feels like a buzzy living room, enhanced by natural, unfiltered light and warm mahogany wood tones. A painting by Baltimore street artist, Gaia, soars above the room in dynamic color. It depicts the face of Francis Scott Key and the hands of the two women who sewed the famous flag, Mary Pickersgill and her indentured servant, Grace Wisher.

Inviting clubby leather chairs adds to the familial and convivial vibe. Guests settle in for the morning with coffee and old-school newspapers, striking up conversations with others nearby. The hotel lobby is reconceived as a living space leaning into its past as a social hub under Mr. Key’s watchful gaze.

The Cannon Room

Hidden in plain sight, I challenge you to find the Cannon Room without asking Juan. I seek out the barrel-shaped bar to spot the WW2 cannon I learned was unearthed during renovation. Others will likely seek it out for its locally crafted American whiskey, but due to an unfortunate incident in high school, spirits are not my thing. If they are yours, you won’t be disappointed.

Rec Pier Chop House

The Sagamore Pendry’s main restaurant is a cavernous Italian steak house with chef Andrew Carmalini at the kitchen’s helm. Mr. Sutton’s clever use of architectural screens and circular banquettes divide the space. It evokes a sense of mystery I imagine even Edgar Allen Poe would appreciate. A scene-stealing windowed arch acts as a portal to the cobbled streets of Fells Point.

My New York Strip is prepared just as I like it, and I order a bold glass of red to match its bold flavor. A few bar stools down from me, I meet Suzanne—a like-minded food lover. I learn she also lives in DC and we chit-chat about the hotel, food, and travel. When I travel solo, I chit-chat like there’s no tomorrow. Suzanne gets an earful.

For Foodies Only: Click here to find out about Fells Point Culinary Food Tours!

The Courtyard

Linking the lobby to the pool via a long indoor/outdoor atrium is the Pendry’s courtyard. The passageway has cozy fire pits for cooler months and a birch tree-lined escape for warmer ones. Twinkling lights add a touch of dazzle, but the real star is the Moët & Chandon vending machine. Form follows function at this ever-instagrammable courtyard fixture. Get a token at reception and simply ‘Push for champagne.’

A larger-than-life, puffy bronze horse blocks my path to the pool. An impressive Botero—who I immediately forgive because he’s so adorable—all 3500 pounds of him. A couple asks me to take their photo in front of the massive steed. “It’s our first date,” she whispers, and I can’t help but feel like I might be documenting a pivotal moment in their lives. I think back to Juan, and the people he says makes the place. I’m starting to believe.

The Pool

Sitting at the tip of what was once Rec Pier is the proverbial cherry on top of Maryland’s Smith Island cake—the Pendry Hotel pool. “Let’s embrace the city, smokestacks and all!” it roars with pride.

The infinity-edged pool faces the harbor that thrums with industry. Schooners zigzag with the wind, their crisp white sails a striking contrast to the factory-lined backdrop. Battleship gray battleships loom. There’s no better spot to soak up the Baltimore sun than poolside with a tall Bloody Mary sprinkled with Old Bay seasoning, naturally.

A man swims by, smiling and eager to engage. His office is a few blocks away, so he comes to the pool weekly to relax. “I’m in my happy place here,” he says with no irony and only a small trace of inebriation. A worthy OOO, for sure.

Rooms and Suites

Among the 128 rooms and suites at the Pendry Hotel, I’m fortunate to call a Harbor Balcony Suite my home for a few days. ‘Sophisticated’ once again enters my mind as an apt description. As do other adjectives like refined, understated, and polished. The dark wood, stately bedding, and brass accents make me want to redesign my house.

The marble wall behind a deep standalone tub makes me want to gut-renovate my master bath. The highly curated artwork makes me want to go overboard at Art Basel. Mr. Sutton, this trip is going to cost me.

Click here to learn about Baltimore’s Inner Harbor Sightseeing Cruises!

Every Building Tells A Story

The Sagamore Pendry Hotel finds a way to build upon the past while living firmly in the present. Its amenities appeal to the modern city traveler and millennial alike. Between Rob, the valet, Suzanne, the lawyer, the couple on their first date, and the slightly tipsy swimmer, I take back my cynicism. It really does seem like the people are what makes the Pendry tick.

What is a hotel if not a microcosm of a community? The Sagamore Pendry’s story reveals far more than a typical hotel. A social hub, a place to mingle and mix. The heartbeat of an uber-cool, gritty neighborhood.

With local, cutting-edge Baltimore artists showcased and found objects on display, the hotel carves out a new niche in hotel design and purpose. One that mirrors the history of the place in which it resides.

Every building has a story to tell. The Sagamore Pendry’s narrative is multi-faceted, layered, and complex. Part history, part mystery, and infused with romance and legend, the Pendry Hotel takes the city of Baltimore as its muse. No guest will leave without sensing the community center roots at its core. In the end, it’s all about the people.

But I guess you already know that, Juan.

Ready To Book Your Stay at The Sagamore Pendry? Click Here!

Disclaimer: Although the Sagamore Pendry Hotel kindly hosted me for my stay, all opinions stated are my own. As always, I’ll only recommend places I fully believe in. Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.

August 31, 2023
5 Travel Wish List Destinations That Will Inspire

I am Lost and Found’s original tagline was ‘Luxury Travel.’ Over the years my travel tastes evolved and ‘luxury travel’ felt limiting. Plus, I wasn’t only traveling to luxury hotels anymore. So I changed it to ‘Adventure and Luxury Travel.’ Eventually, even that felt limiting. I thought about the goals of my site. I am Lost and Found inspires travel—so ‘Inspiring Travel’ it is. Ready for inspiration? Follow along for five travel wish list destinations I’m dreaming about right now.

It’s another sticky, steamy day in DC. I should be doing something productive. Instead, I’m at my local coffee shop sipping an iced latte and daydreaming about future travels. I spin the globe in my mind. Green continents and blue oceans swirl together like a Van Gogh immersion experience. It takes my attention away from today’s news where most of the world is covered in a sheath of orange and red.

I pause over Norway—an appealing place right now for obvious reasons. Breathing crisp, cool, Arctic air sounds blissful. I take another sip of coffee and add it to my travel wish list, suddenly energized to write.

I keep spinning the globe. The next few hours unfold easily.

Join me as I waste time. Time that could be spent figuring out the dinner my kids will complain about least or watching the next intestine-twisting episode of The Bear. Read along for the next installment of my top five travel wish list destinations. Lord knows my husband will regret he didn’t join me this morning. This post is going to cost him.

Travel Wish List: 5 / Manshausen Island, Norway

A telling indicator a place belongs on my travel wish list is when I can’t contain my emotions after discovering it. Those times I frantically fire off picturesque screen grabs to my husband, Daniel, and impatiently wait for a thumbs-up emoji—eager to book it before he can blink. This is exactly how I feel when I look at Manshausen Island’s website. Obsessed.

Manshausen’s seven modern sea cabins and two sea towers hover over the water. Glass windows take full advantage of the spectacular views. It’s easy to see why the sea cabins have won so many design awards. They’ve adopted a ‘compact living’ mentality, focusing on comfort and ‘calm minimalism’. I’ve never heard of calm minimalism but I’d love to book a one-way ticket there and never look back.

Where is Manshausen Island?

Manshausen is a 55-acre island off the coast of northern Norway, across the fjord of the Lofoten Islands. In the late 1600s, Manhausen was a trading post. Today, it’s owned by famous polar explorer, writer, and photographer, Børge Ousland who turned Manshausen into one of the world’s best-kept secret adventure destinations.

I deep dive into Børge Ousland’s Wikipedia page. Ousland began his career as a Norwegian Special Forces Officer. In 1994, he made the first unsupported trek to the North Pole from Russia’s Arctic Cape. Then, as if that wasn’t bad-ass enough, in 1996 Børge Ousland was the first person to cross Antarctica solo. That he did it unsupported, on skis, and over 58 days makes my head spin like the globe I was daydreaming about earlier. Oh, and then he got married at the North Pole in 2012. Ok, Børge, simmer.

What to do on Manshausen Island?

Some activities on Manshausen Island abide by the seasons while others are enjoyed year-round. Sea kayaking, fishing, trekking, mountain climbing, traversing, cave touring, and eagle spotting are just a few of the Nordic adventures on hand. Add on wellness and culinary programs that touch upon all of the senses and it’s pretty clear why this island north of the Arctic Circle is so captivating.

Børge Ousland notwithstanding, visitors don’t need to be polar explorers or Special Ops to fall for Manshausen. Coastal museums, fortresses, fishing villages, and the original 1690 trading post are travel-worthy attractions nearby. Personally, I’d be content sitting at my panoramic sea cabin window with a cozy blanket, the latest Ann Patchett novel, and a glass of wine.

USP (Unique Selling Point) #1: The Northern Lights in the winter or the midnight sun in the summer? How to choose when to visit this Arctic escape from reality? Manshausen Island will just have to count as two travel wish list destinations. Do I see another thumbs-up, Daniel?

USP #2: Børge Ousland.

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Travel Wish List: 4 / Katmai National Park, Alaska

I count eight brown bears wading in the current. I see two bear cubs lumbering over slick boulders, pawing one another like feisty toddlers. A gull swoops overhead catching the attention of mama bear, who is competing with another bear for a fishing spot. The gulls’ caws, the gurgling river, and the steady gush of waterfalls are the only discernable sounds.

I’m not at Katmai National Park, but oh how I wish I was. Instead, I’m one of 2393 wildlife ~~geeks~~ enthusiasts simultaneously viewing Alaskan brown bears on the Brooks Falls bear cam. I’ve been watching them for longer than you’d imagine possible and have even started giving names to my faves.

Where is Katmai National Park?

Located on the Alaskan peninsula across from Kodiak Island, Katmai National Park and Preserve is 300 miles south of Anchorage. Katmai was designated a national monument in 1918 in order to protect it after a volcanic eruption in 1912. The area, 18 volcanoes strong (seven active), is also known as the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Whoever’s in charge of Katmai’s branding deserves a raise. I’d visit based on the name of that valley alone.

What to do at Katmai National Park?

The bears are the main attraction in this incredibly remote and untamed part of the American wilderness. That’s why I want to go. I want a front-row seat to see Yogi, Baloo, and Teddy catch sockeye salmon in real-time. The grainy webcam footage, while highly addictive, just isn’t cutting it.

Katmai is one of the top ten least visited national parks in the United States with just under 25,000 tourists last year. Compare that to Yellowstone’s 3 million and I’ve easily uncovered another great reason to visit.

The park is home to more than 2000 Alaskan brown bears. Grizzlies are the smaller species of brown bears and live further inland. If bears aren’t your thing, feel free to move on to my next travel wish list entry. But, if bears aren’t your thing, we should reconsider our friendship. Just kidding, I have lots of friends who don’t like bears.

Flightseeing, boating, catch-and-release fishing, backcountry hiking, and camping make Katmai National Park a haven for adventure seekers. There aren’t enough luxury hotel products on Earth to get me to camp in the backcountry though. That’s where the grizzlies are! My adventure mindset has limits.

USP: Grizzly bears, Alaskan brown bears, bear cubs, bears catching sockeye salmon, bears swimming, bears frolicking beneath waterfalls, Yogi, Baloo, and Teddy…

Travel Wish List: 3 / Wildflower Farms, New York

Built in 2022, Wildflower Farms is a modern ode to the Hudson Valley. Its tranquil and serene landscape seems to have sprouted up like the wildflowers for which it is named. An all-season boutique property, Wildflower Farms has an epicurean program that celebrates the region and a wellness program that celebrates healthy living. It’s clear there is much to celebrate at Wildflower Farms.

Where is Wildflower Farms?

Those who hail from the East Coast will have likely heard of the Hudson Valley. Just 90 miles north of New York City, the Hudson Valley is so renowned for natural beauty, it inspired an artistic movement. In the 19th century, the Hudson River School was founded by Thomas Cole and other landscape artists who were influenced by Romanticism.

The Hudson River School’s realistic paintings depict a pastoral world where humans and nature coexist in harmony. A romantic notion indeed! With 65 free-standing cabins and cottages set on 140 secluded acres, Wildflower Farms, an Auberge property, artfully continues the movement’s philosophy of awe and wonder.

What to do at Wildflower Farms?

The valley’s Hudson School may have been heavily influenced by romance but Wildflower Farms appeals to both couples and families alike. There are so many activities I want to take part in I’m considering asking if I can be a summer intern. Fall intern? Carrot peeler?

I can tell that a weekend at Wildflower Farms won’t be enough time for me to express my inner artist. Do I take a class in Botanical Mixology or Botanical Baking? Should I make pressed flower pottery or bake floral focaccia?

How do I choose the best ways to activate my sporty side (yes, Daniel, I have a sporty side)? Do I fly fish or forage, e-bike, or wine taste? Wine tasting is a sport, right? I scan the wellness menu. What if I can’t fit in Mountain Mat Pilates or a Sound Bath? Champagne problems at Wildflower Farms abound.

USP: Ridge Suites have views of the Shawangunk Mountain Range interrupted only by fields of wildflowers. We can either climb the rugged Shawangunks, admire them from the suite’s floor-to-ceiling windows, or grab a brush and start painting. Given enough time, I would happily do all three.

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Travel Wish List: 2 / ULUM Moab, Utah

Some of our favorite vacations have been to national parks located in desert locations: Joshua Tree, Canyonlands, and Arches, among them. We’ve stayed at AirBNBs, rustic lodges, and super swanky hotels. But glamping at ULUM Moab is a class of accommodation all its own.

For anyone not familiar with glamping, it means ‘glamourous camping’, a term open to wide interpretation. I’ve glamped in places that were a far cry from the ‘glamour’ advertised. ULUM Moab appears to have found the sweet spot for adventure and luxury to coexist.

Its 50 safari-styled tent suites have private viewing decks. There are three dipping pools, a yoga deck, and modern common spaces that embrace indoor/outdoor life. Add in Parachute Linens, Aesop products, and bespoke Pendleton wool blankets, and this glamping destination offers better amenities than most traditional hotels.

Where is ULUM Moab?

Located 25 miles south of Moab and within reach of multiple national and state parks, ULUM Moab is a secluded desert paradise. The camp is set on 200 acres of red rock formations and mesas and is just steps from Looking Glass Arch. ULUM Moab is the ultimate introduction to the beauty of the American Southwest.

What to do at ULUM Moab?

On-site activities at ULUM Moab range from relaxing guided nature walks, sound bath meditations, yoga, and stargazing. Your Adventure Concierge (yes, that’s a thing) will help curate off-site excursions like white-water river rafting, kayaking, paddleboarding, National Park tours, and canyoneering. If you haven’t canyoneered, you haven’t lived. It’s one of the funnest activities of all time (and yes, I’m aware funnest isn’t a real word).

At night, as you prepare to stargaze, sit by the bonfire and make polite chit-chat with other like-minded adventurers. Swap stories about the slot canyons you discovered while canyoneering or how you snored through the sound bath. Then grab your Pendleton blanket, a bottle of wine, and settle into the dark skies and constellations above.

USP: With 360 mountain views by day and starry skies by night, ULUM Moab has perfected glamping—the ultimate way to get comfortable in nature.

Travel Wish List: 1 / Dolomites, Italy

The last time my insides physically ached from witnessing natural beauty was a few summers ago in Jackson, Wyoming. The Tetons were so striking, so unbelievably scenic in their razor-cut jaggedness, that I was compelled to photograph them for hours each day. By day three, my husband wanted to feed me to the bears. If the Italian Dolomites are making my insides ache just from my Instagram feed, I can’t imagine what would happen if I saw them in real life.

Where are the Dolomites?

The Dolomites are a mountain range in northeastern Italy. They are sometimes referred to as the ‘Pale Mountains’ due to the carbonate minerals in the rocks. In 2009, they were officially named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Dolomites have been around for millennia. Why it took so long for UNESCO to recognize them is a mystery.

The Dolomites boast some of the most unique and beautiful hotels in the world. Many of them have won awards for design and architecture. The hotels are so swoon-worthy, I wouldn’t know how to choose one without having FOMO about the others.

What to do in the Dolomites?

While renowned for winter skiing, there is much to do in the Dolomites in the summer months, too. This mesmerizing mountain range is the center of the region’s universe. It’s where the luckiest hotels face and the point from which many adventure activities revolve.

Some of the hotels in the Dolomites defy gravity, like the ultra-modern Alpin Panorama Hotel Hubertus. Others, like Forestis, have mountain-facing private pools that make it impossible to leave the room. Aman’s Rosa Alpina (soon to reopen) embraces traditional alpine architecture and has a restaurant with three Michelin stars.

Climbing, hiking, waterfall chasing, rafting, and mountain biking will appease those with an adventurous spirit. Wellness retreats, spas, and woodland walks will satisfy those looking to reset and recharge.

USP: With over 20 Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, the Dolomites are a wish list destination for foodies, too.

Wasting Time

It’s hot in DC, and just about everywhere else in the world right now. I’m sure the oppressive heat has much to do with how these travel wish list destinations came about. Fresh, crisp, mountain air, fields of wildflowers, calm desert-scapes, and bear-filled streams are all pretty enticing right now.

I imagine myself sitting here next January—cupping my latte, complaining about the cold, and daydreaming about warmer climes. I’ll once again spin the globe in my mind, excited to see where I land, and ready to write another batch of travel wish list destinations.

Click Here. Get My Wish List Destination Hot Sheet Free.

Author’s Note: I am grateful to the hotels who kindly gave me high-res photos for use in this post. I’m also using Unsplash for the first time, and praise the photographers who are giving away their gorgeous photos for free. Typically, I only feature my own photos. But alas, if I had my own pictures of these wish list destinations, they wouldn’t be on my wish list.

July 30, 2023
Enchanted. Why Mii Amo is the best Sedona spa.

Mother/Daughter Adventures at the Best Sedona Spa

Air is air. Of course, it can be humid, dry, or wet. It can be conditioned or heated, still or sticky—the adjectives are endless. When I visited the Mii Amo spa in Sedona, I looked for words to describe the air. How did it feel? Neither crisp, nor brisk, nor thin, nor heavy. Then, it dawned on me. I wasn’t feeling anything. The air was imperceptible.

The beauty of not noticing the air is that my other senses are on much higher alert. Sounds become more pronounced, and colors more intense. Brilliant mesas and red rocks define the landscape of Sedona, which is about an hour-long drive from Scottsdale.

Along the drive to our Sedona resort and spa, Southern Arizona’s ubiquitous pale green Saguaro cacti were replaced by other shades of green. Prickly Pear cacti, cypress, sycamore, pine, and juniper trees took over the landscape. It was an arboreal introduction to the Sonoran Desert—our destination for the next few days—a Sedona spa tucked away in the desert wilderness.

Spa-bound, in Sedona

My mom, sister, and I were headed to Mii Amo, a resort and spa part of The Enchantment Resort in Sedona, Arizona. This gorgeous Sedona spa was awarded the #1 Best Destination Spa in the US for the second year in a row by Travel + Leisure Magazine. This coveted spa experience has the added luxury of being situated in one of the most alluring spots in the United States.

The famous ‘Red Rocks’ of Sedona surround Mii Amo. The resort and spa sit at an altitude of 4500 feet and are low in profile—nearly hidden in the Upper Sonoran Desert. It’s as if Arizona gave every architect in Sedona the same Benjamin Moore paint chips and said, ‘Please conform to the colors of the desert.’

Sedona’s Color and Light

Burnt reds, persimmons, ochres, and every shade of warmth in between live in Sedona, Arizona. But what makes the desert even more interesting are the clusters of unexpected and brazen greens. Sedona’s Verde Valley, or Green Valley, is named after the copper that was once mined in the area. The bold greens are a spectacular addition— an unanticipated contrast to the sun-lit rocks throughout the day.

The canyon walls are hundreds of millions of years of age. And comprised of nine staggering layers of stone. The receding oceans created the canyons. The result? Rock formations are a natural, visual wonderland. You need not be a geologist to appreciate the striations and layers of color and rock on museum-like display. Limestone, sandstone, and mud, among other elements, have made this piece of Arizona a literal hot spot.

As the light and shadows changed, I prepared to see something new emerge every hour. The mountain views never disappoint, whether with partly cloudy skies, cloudy skies, or full sun.

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Sedona’s Vistas, views, and Vortexes

Mii Amo means ‘one’s path or journey’. Feeling grateful to be guests at the best spa in Sedona, we decided to get started on that journey right away. My sister and I hiked to Vista Point around 6pm on our first evening in Sedona.

As an added convenience, guests can access many hiking paths from the property itself. The sun was already dipping towards the west. And our short hike to the viewpoint took about 20 minutes via a well-beaten red dirt path. We were told to look for a tree hugging itself,’ as that was a known vortex site. Upon reaching the point, however, it looked like every gnarled and twisted juniper was hugging itself.

The entire area is thought to be a vortex. A vortex is a swirling center of energy that many believe has healing and spiritual powers. Not one to deny an area of its spiritual power, I sat against a rock and decided to channel some positive energy.

Piles of delicate toppling rock cairns dotted the point, each one quietly declaring, ‘I was here!’. The silence was all-encompassing—a drastic change from my daily life in DC.

Desert Life at Sedona’s Best Spa

The setting sun was piercing and lit the upper third of the mountain range on fire. Whether or not one believes in the healing powers of the vortexes (or vortices, as I’ve recently learned), it was impossible not to feel inspired and restored there— the views were unparalleled.

I enjoyed it so much that I returned each day at different times. Once, I ventured out as early as 5am to catch sight of the hot air balloons that hovered over the distant mesa.

I was on high alert, ready to walk into a herd (aka squadron) of wild javelinas as I had done with my sister on our first hike. Rodent or pig? Neither, surprisingly. They are just strange 60-pound hairy mammals that roam the area.

I was reminded of the ROUS (Rodents Of Unusual Size) from the film The Princess Bride. Luckily, javelinas aren’t smart and have poor eyesight. Needless to say, I made it back to the resort unharmed.

Despite that encounter, my sister and I returned the next day. This time, our efforts were rewarded by finding a solo flutist upon a tall red rock. We were told he plays there often. However, we counted ourselves lucky to catch a performance. His ethereal music caught the wind and soared across the valley. It was mesmerizing.

Coffee Pot and other rocks around Sedona

Another day, we hired a local guide, an Apache Native American, and explored for a few hours. He was a proud man, a bit gruff, but very knowledgeable about the area.

From George, we learned to differentiate between the Prickly Pear and Agave plants. We learned how to loosen the nut from the cone of a pinola tree. And the different mating calls of the male quail. Our three-mile hike brought us past Coffee Pot and other luminous rock formations. We paused at an ancient birthing place and reflected on the size of the canyons around us.

A Peek Inside The Best Spa In Sedona

Sixteen casitas, some with hot tubs and indoor and outdoor fireplaces, are offered at Mii Amo. There’s a small juice bar, a café, a boutique, indoor/outdoor pools, and a gym. And, of course, the highly-regarded spa treatment area. The spa experience at Mii Amo is small and intimate. While the spa is only a short walk from Enchantment (its larger, family-friendly sibling), this Sedona spa feels a world away.

The rooms were clean and modern but felt dated and needed a facelift. Soon, a complete overhaul is expected to be revealed. Watch this space.

Click here for my Sedona Hot Sheet. It’s FREE

Spa food reframed

The food at the café exceeded our expectations. For me, the inherent nature of ‘spa food’ has been synonymous with being tasteless. I was proven wrong at Mii Amo. Unsurprisingly, the best spa in Sedona would also have the best spa food.

Spinach, mushroom, and tomato frittatas. Almond chickpea pancakes with lemon ricotta, berries, and prickly pear syrup. Welcome to breakfast! A hearty but healthy way to get my day started. While caffeine and alcohol might be against the rules for some spas, they were readily available to the spa-goers of Mii Amo. I am not one of those people who can start my day without a kick of caffeine. Thank you, Mii Amo.

At This Sedona Spa, Three’s a charm

The front entrance of Mii Amo’s resort and spa is dramatic, with massive rock formations looming above. There is a shaded area of trees that are teeming with hummingbird activity. Attracted by the hanging feeders, I was told that at any given time of day, I would see at least a ‘charm’ of hummingbirds jostling for nectar.

Just a few steps beyond the entry, the Crystal Grotto is a small, cave-like room with a round opening to the sky. Here, one can sit peacefully in thought or be led in meditation by a guide.

Wanting to take advantage of the enchanting Sedona vibes, I went in a few times to enjoy the comforting sound of running water. Anytime I could find a moment of restoration or calm I was up for it, this was part of the reason I was here, after all.

The Sedona Spa: Juice life

At Mii Amo, our hardest daily decision was deciding which smoothie or juice to try. A rough life in the desert, for sure! My favorites were the Maca Smoothie (banana, almond butter, maca powder) and Renew Juice (rhubarb, strawberry, lime). A hint of jasmine permeated the air. And low enough to barely register was the sound of ethereal spa music.

The pool staff remembered our names and our favorite juices. They even reserved the loungers we preferred from the previous day. One especially thoughtful staff member made us feel like he’d known us for years. It was an impressive point of differentiation in the ever-demanding one-upmanship of the resort and spa industry.

The Best Spa In Sedona Exceeds Expectations

Depending upon your perspective, the variety of spa treatments and spa experiences at Mii Amo ranged from traditional to off-the-wall. I experimented with less traditional treatments like ‘Energy Clearing’ and ‘Past-Life Regression.’ I also tried several spa experience staples like a Shiatsu Massage and a Clay Wrap.

Our three-day package included six spa treatments during our stay (two 90-minute and four 60-minute). Sitting in the spa’s waiting room, we would meet people from all over the country. Many had been to Mii Amo more than once, and quite a few from Europe and beyond.

The spa staff had a warmth and genuine love of their craft. Each spa treatment opened my mind to new ways of seeing and listening. And each was as relaxing as I’d hoped. My mom, sister, and I all agreed that the spa treatments were restorative in multiple ways. Ways that I wish I could reproduce in my ‘real life.’

Experience the ethereal side of Sedona with this hidden gem: A Spiritual Vortex Tour

Beyond Mii Amo

After three days at the spa, we spent a few nights at the neighboring Enchantment Resort. We sat by the pool, enjoyed the spectacular views, and headed off-property for some sightseeing.

One highlight was the Chapel of the Holy Cross. An earth-toned and delicate chapel that looks as if it is hovering on the edge of a butte. Inspired by the Empire State Building in the 1930s, it was finally completed in 1957. Picturesque from every angle, the central cross of the chapel’s exterior dives directly into the red rocks.

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The best places to dine in Sedona

We chose our one dinner away from Enchantment with care. A friend had recommended Mariposa. We were lucky to get a coveted reservation on the patio at sunset.

The views and setting were magical, with fire-lit iron globes flanking the entrance. Many diners left their tables mid-meal (me included) to capture the colors in the sky. From what I remember, the food was good, but not the main reason for heading to Mariposa. That said, I would head back any day to watch the sky perform.

While we only had one dinner beyond Mii Amo’s sacred grounds, many other places in Sedona will wow visitors with views and fabulous food. Cress on Oak Creek is in the luxurious hotel Auberge de Sedona. Whether one chooses to dine inside or out, the creekside views are ever-romantic.

Elote is an award-winning modern Mexican restaurant that gets accolades from tourists and locals alike. With locally sourced ingredients and a lively atmosphere, Elote is a must-eat spot while visiting Sedona. Don’t miss the divine corn bisque, a menu highlight.

Tortas de Fuego is a brightly-lit Mexican eatery that specializes in (you know it, tortas). Also known for its burritos and nachos, no one will go home hungry after a meal in one of Sedona’s most popular jaunts.

One last hike at Sedona’s best spa

On my final morning, I took one last vista hike and decided to head out without a camera. I was afraid I would regret not having the chance to capture something that had eluded me before. For almost an hour, I sat in the shade, watching the sun creep along the edge of the rock formations. Was the light creating the character of the mountains or simply revealing it? Without the distraction of a camera, I was fully present in nature and lost in thought.

I’m not sure why I’m surprised that I was less distracted looking at the mountains with my eyes vs through a lens. But it was one of my favorite moments of the trip.

A few days after returning home from Sedona, I was listening to a podcast by Elizabeth Gilbert, the author of Eat, Pray Love. She confessed, “I prefer to live in an enchanted world.” A world where even the air is enchanted?

Well said, Ms. Gilbert. I’m right there with you.

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Author’s Note: The spa at Mii Amo re-opened after a full renovation. It looks spectacular. I am hoping to go next year.

July 10, 2023
How To Experience the Low Country at Palmetto Bluff

Montage Palmetto Bluff is a well-preserved river town, complete with Low Country marshlands, a bird sanctuary, and centuries-old live oaks on the May River in South Carolina. Striking the right blend of highly-curated activities, creative dining options, and varied accommodations, Palmetto Bluff has everything it takes to experience a little Low Country living.

Not long ago, I read an article that sought to quantify the value of ‘things’ versus ‘experiences.’ The writer argued that happiness associated with things (jewelry, cars, electronics) is relatively short-lived compared to experiences (trips, dinners, outdoor adventures), where happiness lasts far longer.

Interestingly, it didn’t matter whether the experience itself was considered ‘good’ or ‘bad’. For instance, let’s say it rained the entire week we spent in Thailand (true). Or, maybe I accidentally booked a hotel in the wrong town on the Amalfi Coast (also true). The memories attached to those experiences are thought to give longer-lasting joy and make for funnier, more engaging stories. True. True. In other words, the laughter lives on.

Family planning with Palmetto Bluff

If there was ever a time to make new memories, that time is now. Some of us have young kids at home, remote learning. Some of us have our college students home for the near future. Perhaps this is an opportunity to capitalize on a weird historical moment and add a few adventures to the family books.

Last October, my family visited Palmetto Bluff in South Carolina. My husband, my kids, my parents (all four of them), my sister, her husband, and their kids. It was our first time in the Low Country. I didn’t fully grasp the importance of our reunion at the time. Those memories are even more poignant, as we haven’t been together since.

The time to start planning future family gatherings is right now. Hotels and airlines are more forgiving with change fees and cancellation policies. Wheels are in motion to make travel safer in the pandemic climate. Wheels are in actual motion across the country, as road trips have become the most popular method of transport. Travel wants us back. Our extended families miss us. Let’s go.

What is the Low Country?

I’m from the northeast. I know mountain life. I know lake life and city life. What I don’t know is Southern life. What does Low Country even mean, I wondered? I headed to Merriam-Webster. Low Country is ‘the low-lying region along the Atlantic coasts of South Carolina and Georgia.’ A bit dry, Mr. Merriam, but informative.

I googled deeper—all the way to page two—the ‘Google graveyard.’ From a cultural perspective, Low Country combines the influences of Southern, Native American, European, Caribbean, and African roots. It is known for its sub-tropical climate, which produces intricate marshlands thick with native birds and reptiles. Now, this was starting to sound more interesting.

Palmetto Bluff fills a Tall Order

Finding a scenic, conveniently located destination accommodating a large group aged 11 to 77 was no easy feat. We were searching for a place with multiple dining choices and a variety of cuisines to please the wide-ranging tastebuds of our crew.

It needed to be on the East Coast and have mild enough weather in mid-October to maximize time outdoors. We wanted a place that offered activities to suit all fitness levels.

Finally, it needed to be self-contained so we could have the freedom to explore yet still feel together. A tall order, indeed. As we soon discovered, it was nothing that Palmetto Bluff couldn’t handle.

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Cue Palmetto Bluff

Palmetto Bluff is extraordinarily beautiful, in a way that is somewhat unreal and weirdly perfect. Like, The Truman Show, type of perfect. The landscape is nature-filled, inundated with various flora and fauna, including massive live oaks.

These ancient oaks drip with silvery gray beards of Spanish moss that glisten with the morning dew. Later in the afternoon, the elongated shadows from the descending sun added to the utter majesty of the trees.

At times, it seemed as if a ringmaster was shouting orders from behind closed doors. ‘Cue the alligator!’ ‘Now, the egrets!’ Ducklings, start waddling!’ Where exactly was he hiding?

The character of the Low Country was constantly seen, felt, tasted, and heard at Palmetto Bluff. Over five leisurely days, my family settled into a lulling sensory download—slow, Low Country life.

Palmetto Bluff’s Village Home 33

Montage Palmetto Bluff has 200 rooms and 35 private residences, which vary in size and style, ranging from traditional hotel rooms and one-bedroom river cottages to three, four, and five-bedroom village homes.

Our family took over a Victorian-inspired, five-bedroom, elegantly-appointed home. Village Home 33 overlooked one of the many low-arching bridges that unite and define the property. Renting a home versus individual rooms allowed our family to have space to be together and space to be apart. Village Home 33 became our family’s home base, with many common areas inside and out.

Meticulously kept gardens led to the entrance, flanked by two welcoming front porches. A swinging outdoor daybed with pillows in patriotic colors beckoned. I immediately knew that I was going to have trouble leaving the porch.

The house’s style was quasi-traditional, Restoration Hardware meets Southern Living Magazine. It had a modern, open-plan kitchen, multiple dining areas, a living room filled with books and games, and a 50-inch flat-screen television.

The master bath felt spa-like, with layers of natural colors, intricately designed, tiled walls, and a deep, soaking tub. No creature comfort was spared.

Location rules

They say location is everything. Village Home 33 was within walking distance of the property’s River House, where an intimate yet lively bar awaited. Here, too, was the destination for nightly s’mores. Two oversized stone fire pits crackled with fire just as the sun disappeared from view. Nearby, a rolling cart was heaped with various flavored marshmallows and milk chocolate bars. An indulgence for any age, indeed.

The home was also close to the Canoe Club, a thoughtfully created dining space with a clubby, warm, low-lit atmosphere.

Buffalo’s, also nearby, was the scene of our hearty Sunday brunch, southern biscuits and all.

Cole’s, a restaurant set in neighboring Moreland Village, overlooked the tranquil marshlands. A fun, casual dining space, its unique selling point was its state-of-the-art bowling alley. We spent a few post-dinner hours attempting strikes and spares with the kids. The sounds of pins getting knocked down and re-racked brought me back to my teenage years.

Worth noting—the house or room number is the way to pay for everything at Palmetto Bluff. Yes, everything. It is the local currency. This includes the stores in the village, the restaurants, the markets, and all activities. We discovered that the kids having access to that tidbit of information proved costly upon checkout.

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What’s next at Palmetto Bluff?

Fire-engine red kayaks were waiting to be launched at the docks behind the perfectly constructed village. The tranquil, interconnected inlets and ponds weaved their way around Palmetto Bluff, allowing us to see various birds, pass underneath low-slung bridges, and look for sunbathing alligators on the grassy banks.

Great Blue Herons swooped surprisingly close overhead, trying to catch fish that occasionally jumped from the water. It was one of the many vantage points from which to explore Palmetto Bluff and my personal favorite. A close second was by bike, which was available to rent upon arrival. We kept our group of twelve bikes in the driveway for our stay—a family peloton.

As if daring us to be bored, Palmetto Bluff offered more activities and adventures than we could experience in five days. Little did Palmetto Bluff know that boredom was a welcome treat for me. However, Palmetto Bluff was a playground waiting to be explored and conquered for the kids.

My stepdad played pickleball against every grandchild. One morning, we scoured the marshlands by boat. Later, the kids went tubing at breakneck speed on the placid water, their high-pitched squeals trailing behind them.

On another day, our crew tried our luck at clay pigeon shooting, an activity that captured the imagination of the 11-year-old and the 77-year-old alike.

We were hard-pressed to find downtime between the adult pool, the kid’s pool, the s’mores pits, the treehouses, tennis, bowling, and archery. Yet, we did, in the form of reading on the porch or cocktails at the nearby River House. Taking long walks through the village lanes and along the piers that jutted out over the May River. We found time. Or, maybe time found us.

Sounds of simpler times

It was a trip that harkened back to simpler times. I certainly couldn’t have been fully aware then that this trip would provide memories for me to pull out of my mind’s archives when I needed a lift in mood. The homespun village undertones were sewn into the landscape of Palmetto Bluff.

I remember us poking fun at the low snore of my stepfather as he dozed on the porch each afternoon. And I can still hear the banter of siblings and cousins as they created TikToks in the living room. I listened to the sounds of my son and nephew peeling down the street on their bikes.

I heard laughter from the kitchen, the pop of a wine cork, and the telltale pings and pongs of a backyard tournament. When added up, all of these unremarkable sounds told a much more remarkable story.

They were the sounds of memories being made, and it was novel to listen to them without life’s usual distractions.

And that is how you experience the Low Country, y’all.

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February 8, 2023
Is The Ryokan Nobu In Malibu Worth The Trip?

Ryokan Nobu in Malibu was named the #1 Best Resort Hotel in the continental U.S. by Travel + Leisure’s World’s Best List. Nobu in Malibu is one of the most sought-after dinner reservations on the west coast, located along California’s famed Pacific Coast Highway. Is all this Nobu-centric press well-deserved?

The Nobu Ryokan, In Malibu. What’s a Ryokan?

Having spent time in a few ryokans while living in Tokyo, I was a bit skeptical about the highly anticipated Nobu Ryokan opening in Malibu. Owned by a combination of high-profile celebrities, business magnates, and Chef Matsuhisa, it had quite a force of power behind its amber-colored walls.

By definition, a ryokan is a ‘traditional Japanese-style inn’. It features tatami-matted rooms, low wooden tables, shoji sliding doors, and an onsen (natural hot spring). How would Nobu pull off a minimal Japanese guest house experience just steps off the Pacific Coast Highway in Malibu?

As it turns out, the term ryokan is taken rather loosely at Nobu in Malibu. However, if you are aware of that upfront, you won’t be disappointed. It’s a stunning beachfront property. The Nobu Ryokan sits on exclusive Carbon Beach. It has 17 rooms and suites, all ocean-facing, which feel intimate, exclusive, and surprisingly—given its location, quiet.

Nobu Malibu and Billionaire’s Beach

Interestingly, the part of Carbon Beach where the Nobu Ryokan resides was once a 1950s motel called Casa Malibu Inn, which Oracle co-founder, Larry Ellison bought in 2007. Carbon Beach has often been referred to as Billionaire’s Beach, as it has many celebrity homeowners. Who doesn’t want an ocean view in Malibu?

The beach is a 1.5-mile-crescent shape that extends from Malibu Pier towards Santa Monica. It’s surprising to see so many rickety and run-down homes, (easily mistaken for shacks on stilts) next to multi-multi-million dollar homes.

Until recently, it was nearly impossible to reach Carbon Beach from the street, as there were no pedestrian access points. Homeowners along the beach had been creative to keep the tourists and beachcombers at bay. Fake garages, ‘No Entry’, and ‘No Trespassing’ signs littered the highway, strategically placed to keep people out. That eventually changed. Yet, it’s still a challenge to reach, which makes Nobu Malibu’s beach property all the more exclusive.

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Nobu Malibu: Dining

Nobu’s ocean-side restaurant is just a stone’s throw from the ryokan, separated only by the ultra-modern and buzzing members-only Soho House. Nobu erases the need for an in-house restaurant but also erases the intimacy of the in-room ryokan dining experience. To that end, the food is not included in the price of the room, as it is in a traditional ryokan.

A typical ryokan meal, known as kaiseki, is about small and varied plates, as well as seasonal and regional ingredients. Each course is artfully designed, with hidden culinary flavors on each plate, sometimes within a single bite. In my eyes, it is the essence of what makes a ryokan stay so unique.

Room service is available from the restaurant, and the food is in line with what you would expect from a superstar transplant chef from Japan. Nobu Matsuhisa has catapulted himself into a worldwide brand, and you would think with so many irons in the fire that his brand might suffer. It didn’t seem to be suffering at the restaurant, a full house every night.

It feels just like the set of Entourage. In a meta moment, we see the real Turtle and ‘E’ wander in for dinner. Not surprisingly, they don’t endure an hour’s wait for a table. However, a perk of staying at the Nobu Ryokan is that we get reservations at the restaurant. We take full advantage of this perk.

At The Nobu Ryokan in Malibu, it’s minimal

The staff at the ryokan is as minimal as the decor. Or, at least it appears that way. Aside from the general manager, Ms. Eng, we hardly see a soul throughout our stay. There is the occasional gardener tending the tropical flora or skimming the man-made ponds, but we went hours without seeing anyone at all.

Ms. Eng has a bright, breezy, and effortless way about her, magically appearing when needed and seeming to disappear into thin air when we don’t. Ms. Eng was once quoted, “You go to Nobu’s restaurant and Soho House to see and be seen—but you come to the ryokan to not be seen”.

Nobu in Malibu, hidden in plain sight

The gardens and architecture are reasons alone to visit the Nobu Ryokan. It’s hidden in plain sight directly on the Pacific Coast Highway. Enter through the double-thick automated wooden doors and leave the world behind. The Pacific Ocean lies directly ahead.

A winding stone path, natural water features, an outdoor fireplace, and an elevated deck with expansive white umbrellas are all that sits between us and the sea. However, only guests of the ryokan can catch a glimpse of the Jerusalem limestone, the koi ponds, or the enormous, overflowing potted plants.

The shallow-pitched and flat roof-topped buildings naturally blend into the hilly California backdrop. The colors are warm and toasty, the sun always creating new colors to the palette, the thunder of the ocean waves walloping onto the shore.

Iconic California palms abound, as do lush flora and fauna. The gardens, while small, are beautiful. Rocky paths guide us around the property, and Japanese stone lanterns are nestled into the landscape.

It’s in the details at Nobu in Malibu

We lunch on the deck upon arrival, soaking up ocean views, while waiting for our room. I have lobster shiitake salad with spicy lemon dressing, the first of many wonderful Nobu Malibu meals. The umbrellas offer enough shade to shield us from the sun, yet allow us to enjoy the unobstructed sea views.

We then head to our suite and immediately decide we are staying put for the rest of the afternoon. Everything we need is in place. An assortment of teas, a Nespresso machine, a large deck with sunscreen and towels, and two beach chairs prepared for us on the sand below. The idea that the PCH is less than a few hundred feet behind us seems impossible.

Our room is beautifully appointed with maple-syrupy teak wood. Warm, natural sunlight pours in from the skylights. As Japanese ryokans go, Mr. Matsuhisa’s interpretation is certainly a high-end version of the genre. While it’s not quite as spare and doesn’t offer the traditional Japanese onsen experience, it does have a deep tub in which I happily soak for hours.

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Beauty and the Bath at the Nobu Ryokan

The bathroom is by far one of the ryokan’s best features. This is due mainly to the incredible use of light, and how it graphically and organically plays out through the windows. The shadows create strong geometric patterns that shift throughout the day.

The honeycomb colors make the bathroom appear drenched in the sun, even at night. Never underestimate the power of a soft amber lightbulb. A deep, teak, soaking tub with bath salts and traditional Japanese details makes the loss of a true onsen a distant memory.

A Japanese yukata, or robe, is on hand. The Japanese layer the left side of the yukata over the right, the opposite of what we do here in the West. If layered in Western style, it signifies mourning.

At Ryokan Nobu in Malibu: It’s Hospitality For The Win

There are plenty of traditional Japanese touches, of course, but I don’t feel like I’m in Japan, and perhaps that is not Matsuhisa’s intent. Yet, I don’t feel I’m in a Disney-fied version of Japan either. It is merely this, a California interpretation of a Japanese inn.

The Nobu Ryokan Malibu’s website writes about the art of Japanese hospitality, omotenashi. The service certainly comes close to its Japanese counterpart, and as I mentioned, Ms. Eng could not have been more in tune with our needs. We discover that the only way to secure a reservation for the inn is by email, as there is no telephone number or even a reservations department, per see.

Malibu Farm

We wander down the coast for dinner. Situated at the base of the iconic circa 1905 Malibu Pier, and wallowing in its shabby chic-ness is Malibu Farm. The crowd is a mixed bag, young and old, tourists, and locals alike. Buzzy and convivial. Well-placed hanging tealights create a low-key yet festive vibe.

The food is good, and I enjoy a perfectly seared skirt steak with a balsamic and fig marinade. However, the fiery disk of the cadmium orange setting sun is the showstopper. It definitely isn’t the chairs, or should I say, the low, hard wooden stools that we sit upon. But the sunset is a hit, and I happily sit in discomfort for hours watching the ocean views.

The sister breakfast spot up the pier, Malibu Farm Café, is equally shabby. Maybe even more so. The kind of place where I feel compelled to tip, despite the fact that I stood in line to order food, and had to bus my own table afterward. The coffee is energizing, hot, and in big ceramic mugs, so that makes up for a lot.

Malibu Pier is as insta-ready as it gets, and if you are lucky with a bright blue sky (unlike us) and a rare moment when tourists aren’t lining the pier, you can get a lovely shot.

Malibu Views at The Nobu Ryokan

Admittedly, I have a Western view of the Far East and an Eastern view of the Pacific Northwest. That said, I probably need more than three days at Nobu in Malibu to truly get under the surface. I am willing to do more research.

However, as much as I like the ryokan with its simple subtle lines, minimalistic decor, and prime beach location, I’m not sure it can justify its staggering price tag. I imagine some who are more familiar with traditional Japanese culture would consider it a bit of a gimmick.

I give the Ryokan at Nobu in Malibu kudos for its many accomplishments. It left me wondering, though, whether it’s a traditional Japanese Ryokan or a cleverly branded boutique hotel.

Let me know what you decide.

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January 29, 2023

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