I am Lost and Found

Category: Stay in North America

Amangiri is the hideaway hidden in plain sight

Amangiri is one of the most luxurious resorts in the world. Amangiri has won awards for its spectacular pool, its desert location, and over-the-top excursions. Read on for a sneak peek into Utah’s decadent resort, Amangiri. Discover if a vacation in the Utah desert is right for you.

What’s Aman?

Years ago, when we lived in Tokyo, I remember a dinner party where we met a woman named Fang. She’d been an ex-pat in Japan for years. We were fresh off the proverbial boat, trying to make sense of a new and foreign life. After she casually mentioned an upcoming trip to Aman in Indonesia, we innocently asked, “What’s Aman?”. Cue sardonic laughter, followed by a cryptic smile that implied, ‘If you have to ask, maybe you are at the wrong dinner party’. Fast forward a decade. We have since learned about the inherent draw of Aman and Amangiri, a luxurious oasis hidden in the Utah desert.

The Aman group of resorts is scattered across the globe. They define a niche of low-key, high-end luxury, unlike much of what is out there, which tends to be either one or the other. Typically, in far-flung, remote, and unique destinations, they almost always sit discreetly in their environments. For instance, Amansara, in Cambodia, was the former guest villa of the country’s King Sihanouk.

Many Aman hotels don’t have a signed entrance, making them challenging to find. They rarely, if ever, have a lobby, bellboys, or a front desk. Founded by Indonesian native Adrian Zecha in 1988, Aman now has dozens of boutique properties around the world. Each prides itself on intrinsic beauty and stellar, almost invisible service.

Amangiri is hidden in plain sight

Amangiri, one of only three Aman properties in the continental US, is impossible to spot when viewed from above. In fact, it’s also impossible to spot when you are driving. With about 600 acres, it nestles beautifully into the desert landscape. The colors mirror the dusty terrain. Low, flat rooftops quietly conceal the beauty that lies beneath. It’s beautiful from the inside out. Every detail has been thoughtfully decided upon, whether natural or manmade.

Bring the outside in at Amangiri

Our suite was spacious, strikingly monochromatic, and naturally lit by expansive picture windows. Rooms are mountain-facing so that not a single golden drop of sun is missed throughout the day. The contrast of the warm glow that hovered and then completely dropped out of sight was something to look forward to each evening. With a glass of wine, we had front-row seats for every performance.

Rooms and suites are as natural as the outdoors itself. Stone, wood, and clay describe both the mellow color palette as well as the raw materials. The beds float mid-room, facing the windows so that there is no escape from the elements.

The outside patio had a small fire table to take the chill off the slightly cool summer nights while we enjoyed sunset cocktails. Nearby, a straw hat and parasol were on hand to shield the all-day rays, a hand-carved walking stick for hikes, and state-of-the-art binoculars. Amangiri, you thought of everything. Details rule.

Amangiri is only a click away. Check here for availability.

Amangiri’s Panoramic vistas

The Dining Room and Great Room at Amangiri are open-plan layouts with panoramic windows that essentially double as a permanent and ever-changing art exhibit. As we walked around the common spaces, we took note of local handicrafts, such as geometric-designed hand-woven baskets and pottery.

As ever, coming back to the resort after an invigorating day immersed in nature felt decadent, and our relaxing time ahead felt well-deserved. Four fireplaces with comfortable lounge-like seating were welcoming spots to cozy up with a pre-dinner drink. A floor-to-ceiling walnut wine cellar that would make any wine aficionado swoon was another fun place to explore.

The cuisine at Amangiri, given its geographic location, is influenced by Native Americans. Interesting flavor combinations, such as Shrimp and Mesquite Smoked Grits accompanied by Cholla Cactus Bud, caught my eye. We experimented with new dishes and flavors daily, and the jovial bartender created cocktails to match our choices.

A large telescope beckoned us from the Great Room’s expansive windows so we could get as up close and personal with the terrain as we wanted. I imagined wildlife roaming in the distance, the owls burrowing in the rocks, and the critters scuttling quickly across the desert floor.

The ABCs of Amangiri: Adventures, Buttes, and Champagne

Amangiri’s proximity to Lake Powell and Antelope Canyon is a significant draw, as they are a launch point for so many interesting adventures. One could easily spend a week and not begin to exhaust the excursions available: hiking the red rocks, crossing the challenging Via Ferrata, and climbing into the slot canyons, to name a few. There is also hot air ballooning, kayaking, and horseback riding—a playground for the adventure junkie and photographer alike.

The innate beauty in this part of Utah conjures up the image of peeling back layers from an onion. Beyond the thick outer layers—climbing and hiking—are the super thin ones, like discovering owls nesting in the nook of a rock or noticing the subtle difference in colors of the earth beneath our feet. Those delicate layers, the tiny details, can go on indefinitely here—the corner of the country where Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah intersect.

One afternoon, we boarded a helicopter to see the desert from above and landed atop a nearby butte. Our pilot set up a table and chairs for us to soak up the surroundings over a bottle of chilled champagne. Blue and gold, opposites in the world of color, created a striking scene from our elevated position.

As the sun began to set, we flew over the Glen Canyon Dam and Horseshoe Bend—its iconic shape giving credence to its name. One highlight among many highlights of the trip.

Amangiri and Utah’s Slot Canyons

It is said that Utah has the most slot canyons of anywhere in the world, and the draw of hiking into these colorful, sunlit, narrow gorges was a large part of why Utah became our destination of choice.

Our guide was a young, local Native American man who led us up, over, and around the rock formations and taught us about the layered sedimentary deposits. At various points, we had to scramble on our hands and knees and suck in our bellies to access the famous slots.

To say that the colors and striations of the canyons cannot be captured on film is an understatement. A sliver, a piece, or a glimpse can be caught, but to illustrate it in its entirety was impossible, at least by me.

At certain times of day, the sun dived deep into the slots, saturating them and creating luminescent hues. The rock walls appeared fluid. We crawled through passageways in the formations, watching the colors that ranged from cadmium orange and burnt orange to cayenne red, persimmon, and then a rich, moody purple. Other times, looking through the crevices gave the illusion of an orb of fire rather than permanent rock. The once fiery walls smoldered as the sun shifted, turning smoky and dark.

Amangiri and Lake Powell

A man-made reservoir rather than a lake, Lake Powell added yet a different layer of adventure to our desert holiday. The following morning, we hired a captain and a boat and spent the day wake-surfing, waterskiing, and swimming in Lake Powell’s crips waters. We marveled at the impressive and incredibly steep canyon walls and noted the distinct colored patterns that centuries of ever-changing water levels had etched into the earth.

Craggy and textured mountains surrounded the lake, vibrantly juxtaposed against the cerulean blue sky. Distant buttes dotted the barren landscape; their iconic flat tops cut a unique silhouette. With the water so clear and brilliant, Lake Powell is understandably a favorite destination for houseboats and day trippers. Yet, it didn’t feel busy. In fact, there were moments we were so alone, I felt I had traveled back to prehistoric times.

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Amangiri’s 180 million-year-old rock is a showstopper

After a morning of squeezing through canyons and tackling the dry desert heat, it was a gift to return to the resort and know that we didn’t have to leave the property for any reason for the remainder of the day. As Google had promised in my research, the pool setting at Amangiri was said to be nothing short of awesome. I was excited to fact-check.

Hands down, the most defining element of Amangiri is its enormous ancient boulder. It has been said that Mr. Zecha used this rock as the centerpiece of the resort’s design and spent years trying to secure the site, as it was initially nationally owned land. One could argue that it is the oldest piece of original art on the property.

In a feat of design that would make any landscape architect drool, a glorious pool surrounds the boulder. Each platform lounger, with oversized white umbrellas, slices into the pool’s edge, which creates the illusion of personal space. Some days, we felt like we were the only guests there. However, one afternoon, Tom Hanks and his family showed up poolside, and we all did our best to pretend we didn’t recognize him. But even with eyes closed, Tom Hank’s voice is impossible to mistake.

Invisible service at Amangiri

As mentioned earlier, Aman prides itself on nearly invisible service. At Amangiri, they took that sentiment a bit too far, and sometimes, we couldn’t find anyone! This was most apparent at the pool when ordering a drink or a bottle of water and then later at cocktails. (Although, it didn’t seem like the Hanks family had similar issues.) However, when we did find a server, they couldn’t have been more friendly or helpful.

In Aman’s defense, it may be hard, in such a quiet, remote part of Utah, to find the level of service they can more easily find at other properties. Nonetheless, I would head back to Amangiri in a heartbeat and forgo any level of service for the views.

Amangiri means Peaceful Mountain

Amangiri is a feat of form and function. Geometric lines nestle so unobtrusively into the earth—not making much of a ripple from an architectural point of view. There is a reason that Amangiri has been written about endlessly in travel magazines and is often cited as one of the best hotel settings in the country. The pool is considered one of the most beautiful in the world, thanks to Mr. Zecha’s vision.

A few years ago, Aman revealed a sister property to Amangiri called Camp Sarika. It’s a private enclave of ten canvas-topped pavilions, each with a private plunge pool, set within 600 acres of the property. Aman calls it a back-to-the-wild experience. They call it a meditative sanctuary. Whatever they call it, it’s now at the top of my wish list.

In Arabic, Amangiri is defined as ‘Peaceful Mountain’. It’s hard to imagine a more fitting name in this stunning part of the United States. When I think back to that long-ago dinner party in Tokyo, now I’m the one smiling. Wherever you are, Fang, thank you.

Amangiri is just a click away. Check here for availability.

November 11, 2022
Blackberry Mountain Is Sensational

Tucked up in the Smoky Mountains of Tennessee. Blackberry Mountain sets a high bar by combining unique adventures and holistic wellness activities. And, it takes adventures even further with locally sourced food, and the comforts of home. This post describes how Blackberry Mountain entices each of the senses, in completely unexpected ways.

This is Blackberry Mountain

Big Double Shelter is a wide, wooden deck at the end of Big Double Trail. The treetops in the distance look freshly painted. Brushstrokes of oily red, orange, and yellow skim the uppermost leaves.

The result is an undulating wave of late autumn color. Big Double Shelter hovers above pine trees adorned with clusters of prickly pinecones jut precariously over a deep ravine. We are the only hikers out this brisk November morning. The silence is deafening.

THUMP.

“Uh oh,” my friend says, “there goes the walkie-talkie”.

I peer over the edge. But she’s already scrambling down the steep slope to recover it from the forest floor. I think to myself, this is the part of the film when things begin to go horribly wrong.

What’s to fear? It’s not as if there are black bears roaming the Smoky Mountains in late November. Or, that the walkie-talkie is our sole connection to the lodge? Alerting the front desk of our hiking route, as recommended, is no longer unimportant.

We’d brought only a 4 oz bottle of water between us because we want to travel ‘light’. And, perhaps I’m not the confident map reader I pretend to be. Is the sky starting to turn an ominous gray? Is the wind picking up? Why do I feel suddenly parched? Curse you, my overactive imagination.

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At Blackberry Mountain, adventure and luxury overlap

If this mini-adventure appears to be threaded with fear, it is fleeting. In this case, the ‘Girls’ Weekend Gone Wrong’ thriller would have to wait, as our hike had an uneventful ending. My friend recovered the slippery walkie-talkie, the skies reverted to cerulean blue, the wind abated, and the water sufficed. The only evidence of bear was an ambiguous claw scrape in the dirt.

Blackberry Mountain, a luxury/adventure lodge in Walland, Tennessee, is as eventful or uneventful as one wants it to be. The property’s sweet spot is best illustrated between the layers. Layers as thick and interesting as the Smoky Mountains themselves.

Blackberry Mountain, in brief

The Beall family started Blackberry Farm as a six-room country inn in the mid-70s. Over the years it has grown and gained worldwide attention in the hospitality sphere. In 2018, the Beall family opened a sister property, Blackberry Mountain. Blackberry Mountain covers eight miles of protected ridge line over 5200 acres. Almost half of which is dedicated to land conservation. Not to overdramatize, but it’s spectacular.

The Watchman Cabins

Ramshackle, Cripple Creek, Crackling Hen, and Old Smoky. Welcome to the watchman cabins. A six-of-a-kind collection that lines the top ridge of the property. Each cabin comes with its own personalized golf cart so getting around the property is never an issue. Our cabin is Ramshackle, set just across from the forest-enclosed, infinity-edged, hot tub. No golf cart is needed.

Outside, the smell of new wood-burning wafts from the neighboring cabins. And the fresh scent of morning dew is ever more noticeable after the night’s heavy downpour.

The cabins are rustic-chic. For instance, Ramshackle has layers of wooden beamed walls, and wide, wood-planked floors. Additionally, there’s a wood-burning stove and a free-standing deep soaking tub to complete the comfy, cozy setting. Endless little luxuries are sprinkled throughout the cabin.

Amenity Overload

As an example, Aesop toiletries sit at the edge of the deep, stand-alone tub. A Nespresso maker and assorted teas are on hand for a morning caffeine fix. And, remote-controlled roller shades reveal the lofty view from floor-to-ceiling windows. Amenities, galore.

Additionally, brass binoculars (for bird or bear viewing) are set atop the iron stove. Also, there is a basket of firewood ready to take the chill from the cool evening air. Thick, wool, blankets drape the chairs, begging to be worn. So, that regardless of the outside temperature, we could still enjoy views from the deck.

The trees in front of Ramshackle’s picture window are stark, having already lost most of their leaves. Spindly branches overlap one another, an inky contrast against the morning’s milky fog.

7am. I’m not a morning person. But, I try to keep my eyes open long enough to witness the mist rise beyond the windows. I want to watch the sun break through to reveal the patches of farmland below. Watercolor hues of overlapping blues shape the mountains. Steel blue, gray-blue, periwinkle, cornflower, and as expected, smoky blue. I don’t even have to leave my bed. If there is ever a place to have cabin fever, this is it.

Naturally, views trump everything at Blackberry Mountain. And none are more intoxicating than from the hilltop Watchman Cabins.

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THREE SISTERS, AND A FIRETOWER RULE OVER BLACKBERRY MOUNTAIN

There are two restaurants at Blackberry Mountain: Firetower and Three Sisters. Firetower is aptly named. It sits at the base of a restored 1950s fire tower that guests can climb for sweeping views. The restaurant is an uphill stone’s throw from our cabin and is where we enjoyed many of our best meals. Three Sisters is a slightly more formal dining experience at the main lodge. We divided our meals between both—always in fear of missing out on something the chefs were inventing. Foodie FOMO, it’s real.

In an effort to try every dish on the menus, we shared everything. My friend has been a vegan for 20 years. I decided to become one for three days. I was curious if my tastebuds would forgive me. If I was making too big a culinary sacrifice. My fears were unwarranted.

Breakfasts and dinners are included in the room rate at Blackberry Mountain, which made being experimental easy. The chefs are more than happy to split the meals so that guests can try everything. In one case, we couldn’t decide on which two of the three main courses to share. Our waitress surprised us by bringing all three.

The chefs and waitstaff were as excited and eager for us to sample the entire menu as we were. It is just that type of ‘above and beyond’ service that shows up in every facet of Blackberry Mountain. No ask was too much trouble. Ever.

Executive Orders

The executive chefs, Joel Werner, of Firetower, and Joey Edwards, of Three Sisters, both create extraordinary multi-course and multi-dimensional meals. The dishes have layers of colors and textures—as interesting visually as culinarily.

Fresh, foraged mushrooms sit atop a crusty flatbread with piles of herbs and garlic. A warm grain bowl explodes in flavors as bold as its colors, a brushstroke of cashew butter at its base. At breakfast, sweet potato hash is sprinkled with crispy rice on a thinly-sliced avocado.

Each dish is an unpretentious work of art; confident, simple, and purposeful. I made no sacrifices being a part-time vegan. Although I did allow myself one diversion, as I couldn’t pass up the wagyu beef entree at Three Sisters.

With chefs like this cooking for me each day, I could easily imagine life as a vegan. At least a part-time vegan.

Pretentious Glass, a Blackberry Mountain exclusive

Speaking of unpretentious works of art, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the decanter. In fact, I could write an entire post about the decanter. Matthew Cummings, owner, founder, and glassblower-in-chief of Pretentious Glass spent years cultivating a relationship with Blackberry Mountain. He now creates exclusive pieces of glassware for them. A fine art sculptor turned commercial artist, Cummings’ creations in glass are a modern, festive, take on classic styles.

His decanter is a carnival of glass. Wide and round with long, whimsical ribbons that stretch from bottom to top. It begged us to choose a wine worthy of it. As a side note, I’m angling to buy one. But I’m told they’re not yet for sale. Yet, I will keep inquiring. Matthew, are you listening?

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BATHED IN SOUND AND LIGHT AT BLACKBERRY MOUNTAIN

Perhaps, the highlight of the getaway is one that I hadn’t anticipated. I was prepared to love the food, the atmosphere, the lodge, and the lodging. I had seen photos, heard stories from friends, and read about the chefs and food. Blackberry Mountain is not an inexpensive undertaking, so a certain level of expectation was inherent. However, the sound bath experience was unexpectedly transporting.

That blustery morning we meet our master of ceremonies. Chris introduces us to the ritual of sound bathing with his warm, lulling voice. The room has high ceilings and is drenched in champagne light. Chris is surrounded by a multitude of instruments; gongs, rainmakers, and chimes, among them. Next, all six guests form a wide semi-circle on the floor with our yoga mats. Lastly, we drape ourselves in soft blankets and placed lightly-scented lavender cloths over our eyes. This is already amazing.

Gongs, Chimes, and Rain

The senses in my body awaken and are warmed from the inside out. I melt into the sounds. The gongs overlap the chimes. Then, the chimes overlap the rainmaker, which sounds like waves crashing onto a beach. First softly, then gaining power, before receding again. I fall asleep, I think. Then awaken to tuning forks in G major, chants, and a few unnameable sounds. The vibrations of those sounds lift and settle within me as I drift in and out of a dream-like state.

All too soon, Chris asks us to sit up. I reluctantly follow orders. The gauzy roller shades are raised, the curtains are drawn. Had I even noticed them earlier? I find myself facing purple mountains— the start of sunset. The ridge is razor sharp, and pink and orange hues are just beginning to appear behind it. I smile. Then wonder when I can do it all over again.

Time’s Up

We attempted a leisurely pace throughout our three days at Blackberry Mountain. We were aiming to find the right balance of chill time and activities. There is much we left undone, which is all the fuel I needed to plan a future trip.

On our final afternoon, a layer of dark clouds descends over the tree line. As if to remind us that it’s time to go. The wind whips in gusts and rattles the stark branches. Not surprisingly, it is still incredibly scenic. But, our time is up.

Blackberry Mountain alighted my senses. It reminded me to admire beauty in the ordinary. Like trees, birdsong, and morning mist. Yet, it had the understated comforts of home but felt extraordinarily luxurious.

It is a hideaway that sparks creativity, calm, and restorativeness. And, it is just what I needed at this moment in my life. To feel snug and secure somewhere outside of my own home.

Whatever it is—the food, the cabins, the hospitality, the treatments, or the adventurous hikes. It is an escape from the familiar. And, who doesn’t sometimes need just that?

Next hike, though, I will take more water.

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October 6, 2022
Escape to New York, Inness takes on the Catskills

Inness is the latest property to take on the Catskills, in New York State. With its low-key escapist vibe and majestic mountain scenery, Inness delivers a weekend getaway for those lucky enough to live within driving distance. Think a cabin-laden, nature-centric resort in the Catskills can’t deliver? Inness will prove you wrong.

“Give me a 5-hour radius, Daniel?” I plead. My husband hates to drive. The last time we took a road trip, a four-hour drive turned into eight, due to an overturned tractor trailer and an ill-timed oil spill. Let’s just say that closed the books on road trips for good.

With airplanes being public enemy #1 of travel these days, I thought I could re-open the case. Newspaper headlines cry, “Unfriendly Skies”, “Airmageddon”, and “The Summer of Lost Luggage”. Every day I’d email Daniel an article reinforcing my point. I’m nothing if not persistent. Although Daniel would likely use a different adjective.

I send more self-serving sound bytes, but he’s unresponsive. If I’m making any headway, it’s impossible to tell.

As a last resort, I offer this: “We can listen to 80s on 8 the whole way.” A statement, while brilliant, I regret the moment it’s leaving my mouth. I detect a glint of possibility in his eyes.

Inness, here we come.

You’re going to the Catskills?

Friends ask, ‘Ummm, are the Catskills still a thing? Were they ever?’. Yes, we are going to the Catskills. The Catskills of Dirty Dancing lore. That place your grandparents used to go. ‘The Catskills are cool again.’, I reply. I hope I’m right. If they aren’t, I’ve given up road trip rights forever.

I’m sensing you don’t believe me. I can see your mouse hovering over that red dot to close this tab. Give a travel blogger, I mean, a travel writer a chance.

We fly past local farm stands and ramshackle barns that look one gust of wind away from absolute destruction. No traffic, no detours, or oil spills. Waze rules—we arrive at Inness at four hours and fifty-eight minutes.

We park. In the distance, enormous willows weep in pairs and in clusters. Queen Anne’s Lace delicately weaves around tall grasses. Cattails emerge with telltale cigar-shaped tips, adding texture to the overgrown landscape. Their pollen has already disintegrated into wispy pieces of cottony fluff that float dreamily through the air.

Thank you, Inness. This is just the welcome I’m hoping for. First, I dutifully thank the traffic gods. Next, I unsuccessfully try to get the refrain from ‘Karma Chameleon’ out of my head. We head towards check-in.

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Inness, the namesake

American painter George Inness came of age during the Hudson River School era. He is referred to as ‘The father of American landscape painting.’ It took me all of 60 seconds to see why the farmhouse and cabin-laden property of Inness is named for him.

A master of light and tone, George Inness couldn’t have chosen a better place to paint than this pastoral part of New York State. The landscape is the main event at Inness. Its location between the Catskill and Shawangunk mountain ranges provides both wide-angle vistas and macroscopic wildlife. I’m smitten. I think George would be, too.

Inness, the property

Inness is comprised of 28 cabins and 12 farmhouse rooms set over 220 bucolic acres. Each cabin is created to maximize the view. I had a hard time deciding where to spend my viewing time. On our private deck? On the hill by the fire pit overlooking the valley? Or, from the adults-only circle pool. In the end, I rotate between all three. I’m an equal opportunity view seeker.

Inness is all about the outdoors. Yet, the indoors have been curated and designed with ‘modern-farmhouse-chic’ in mind. A combination of sparse Scandinavian living with layers of luxury like Frette sheets and robes. Aesop toiletries and locally-sourced snacks are within arm’s reach. The cabins feel effortlessly designed, with vintage furniture and found objects, tea kettles, and minimalistic earth-toned pottery.

The Farmhouse has lovely common and outdoor spaces. A pool table, ping pong table, and corn hole are ready and waiting for a match. An honor bar opens in the afternoon, and we take full advantage of its proximity to the pool.

Fit For a King

Our King Cabin interior is a lesson in geometry. Two pentagons are divided by a square archway. A lone bulb encased by hand-blown glass dangles above a minimal wooden table in the center of the room.

Sheaths of linen are draped against the windows and match the warm dove-gray color of the walls. The Frette bed linens also match the walls, so the entire room feels bathed in shades of gray.

The bed is so underdone it appears naked. No decorative pillows, no patterns, or embellishments. It’s a perfect metaphor for Inness. Underdone, but luxurious.

Our cabin’s exterior is a lesson in simplicity. Rich, graphite-colored siding, iron-framed windows, and doors pop up between the wild green grasses. The cabins pay homage to the Catskill resorts of old, but with a casual and modern twist. They run serpentine along a dirt road that leads from the Farmhouse at one end to the restaurant barn at the other.

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Peas in a pod, and other delights at Inness

One of the reasons I choose Inness is its closeness to the mountains. I love hiking with Daniel. Nothing makes him happier than tackling a mountain with a view. Nothing makes me happier than eating a great meal after tackling a mountain with a view. We are two peas in the same pod.

In addition to DJ’ing five hours’ worth of Tear For Fears, A-Ha, and other dreadful 80s bands, it’s Daniel’s job to choose our hikes. It’s my job to choose our restaurants. Two peas.

Inness’ restaurant encompasses the same simplicity found elsewhere on the property. The large open dining barn has a convivial bar and two outdoor dining areas. Why anyone would choose to sit anywhere but the balcony overlooking the fields and mountains is a mystery I will never solve.

Creatures of Habit

In fact, we eat every meal at the same balcony table and never get bored—either of the menu or the views. Each night the balcony serves us much more than lovely meals.

Storms with dramatic purple clouds roll through while we share a plateful of thinly-sliced tuna carpaccio. Bolts of lightning strike during our shared course of homemade pasta. By the time our mains are served, the sky has cleared and golden light touches the fields below.

On Mondays and Tuesdays, Inness serves wood-fired pizzas and pasta dishes only. For the remainder of the week, the menu is more extensive. It includes local finds like steelhead trout with butter beans and salsa verde and an oven-roasted pork chop with charred rapini and hot honey mustard.

We did attempt to have a dinner off-property. Perhaps find a local farm with a restaurant? But we are creatures of habit, as my friends and family can attest. Leaving the ever-changing skies and sunset from the balcony never materialized. Shocker.

The Catskills Overdeliver

Daniel expects to be underwhelmed by the hiking trails in the Catskills. He’s what you’d call a hiking snob. To be fair, we’ve done some challenging hikes in the past few years. The Tetons, Chamonix, and Helvellyn, as examples. How can the Catskills compare?

I love when Daniel’s expectations are exceeded.

The downside of having no say in our hikes is that I never know what I’m getting into. Traditionally, Daniel and I fight while we hike. We fight because he gets us lost. He won’t admit that, of course. But it’s written right here on the internet so it’s 100% true.

The upside of our fighting is that it scares the bears.

Lakes and Loops

Daniel tells me we are hiking Millbrook Mountain to Gertrude’s Nose. It’s a 7-mile loop hike, rather than an in-and-out one. I’m thrilled. I don’t like in-and-out hikes. I spend the whole ‘in’ wondering when we are getting to the ‘out’. It spoils the experience.

The hike, which begins at the base of Lake Minnewaska, starts out friendly enough. Aside from the sign at the trailhead warning us that we are entering a rattlesnake habitat and to take heed. At least that takes my mind off the bears.

The hike has a soft-padded start, with fallen pine needles paving our way. Inevitably, the work begins, and the terrain gets steep. But thankfully the trail rewards us with views that are worth the struggle. And Daniel’s constant amazement at the hike’s beauty makes me feel like saying ‘I told you so.’

For the sake of marriage preservation, I refrain. Plus, he hasn’t gotten us lost yet.

On Gertrude’s Nose

Who is this Gertrude and why is her nose so climb-worthy? In a nutshell, Dutch settler Gertrude Bruyn set up her house on the range opposite this geological marvel—a cliff escarpment that projects out over the Palmaghatt Ravine ‘like a nose’. I wonder if she’s disappointed by the body part chosen for this honor.

The cliffs, crevices, and joint cracks that lead to the nose offer spectacular eastern and southern views of the Hudson Valley. It also offers a sheer drop to imminent death. If selfies are your thing, think twice. Your Instagram feed isn’t worth it. As silver linings go, maybe you’ll meet Gertrude in your next life.

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Where’s the Lemon Squeeze?

Daniel tells me our next hike is called Lemon Squeeze. Cute, I think. How hard can that be? He mentions it’s another 7-mile loop, but not to worry because it’s mostly downhill. Why I don’t calculate what that says about the uphill part still boggles my mind.

One mile straight up a mountain is what I fail to compute. It’s a doozy of a climb, and I never use the word doozy. We crawl under, over, and around rocks that weigh several tons and balance precariously upon one another. A maze of boulders and tight squeezes dot the route.

Every time I think we have come upon Lemon Squeeze, an even squeezier spot appears. Finally, the real squeeze is obvious, as only children aged ten and younger or supermodels can get through without losing layers of skin.

The Real Lemon Squeeze

After climbing a slippery ladder within an ultra-narrow crevice, I pop out onto a rock ledge overlooking a cerulean blue lake and matching skies. I kiss the rocks under my hands and feet and thank the Almighty this is not an in-and-out trail. The views of Mohonk Lake, creepy Mohonk Mountain House, and the Catskill range are worth every layer of skin I lose that day.

Later, a friend texts me she hiked Lemon Squeeze too—when she was ten. I’m ever-humbled.

The best reward for a morning of hiking is threefold: food, wine, and a pool. Inness has all three waiting for us each day. We dive deep into relaxation like the seasoned professionals we are.

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Inness is for the dogs, and other well-behaved guests

If you live in NYC, Boston, or Philly, I envy your proximity to Inness. As is noted by the license plates which fill the parking lot, the property clearly pulls from the northeast. A mini-escape from the summer heat and city life, Inness is a quick 90-minute drive from Brooklyn. I would have definitely had control of Sirius XM if our drive was that short.

As an added bonus, Inness welcomes dogs (for a fee). The website states it accepts up to two, crated, well-socialized, and well-trained dogs per reservation. This rules out our labs for one reason for sure. That Frette duvet cover would never have survived Indy and Shaka.

However, we meet many adorable canines while at Inness. Most are better behaved than the guests.

Pool, Golf, and other obstacles at Inness

We aren’t golfers. At least not yet. I’ll go out on a limb and say I’ll never golf. But then my dad will inevitably comment, ‘Never say never! You now eat fish!’ and I’ll never hear the end of it.

I overhear a woman at the pool describing the course as having a good aura. That sounds a bit woo-woo, but what do I know about the past lives of golf courses? Built by King Collins Golf, the course has nine holes designed for ‘repeat play to fully appreciate the countless shot-making possibilities.” Their words, not mine.

Two pools book-end the property. The rectangular, kid-friendly pool and the circular adults-only one. I imagine the architects discussing how to keep shrieking children as far away from the grown-ups as possible. The ones who have just dumped, I mean, dropped off their kids at summer camp. Well-played, team Inness.

Inness takes advantage of that fantastic, new middle-aged activity—the obstacle course. Part Tough Mudder, part elementary school playground, the course is a nice alternative to the classic hotel gym, of which there is one on-site, as well.

Checking Out at Inness

Three nights at Inness is the right amount of time to escape the city heat and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. A leisurely balcony breakfast allows us to savor the valley and mountain views one last time before we pile into the car.

The check-in/check-out greenhouse of Inness doubles as a museum-like boutique and overpriced farm stand. We have our boxed leftovers from last night’s dinner for a road trip picnic. ‘This couldn’t happen on an airplane, Daniel.’ I don’t say.

We jump in the car and I quickly change the station to ’90s on 9’. I glance back at Inness. I miss the balcony.

George Inness died in 1894. According to his son, he was viewing the sunset, when he threw up his hands into the air and exclaimed, “My God! Oh, how beautiful!” Then he fell to the ground and died.

That’s the way to go.

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July 20, 2022
The Claremont Hotel is Acadia National Park’s Hidden Gem

The Claremont Hotel and Acadia National Park are a Maine tour de force. The recently redesigned Claremont Hotel has upped the ante on guest experiences in an unparalleled setting. So, if a glass of wine on a wraparound porch facing sunset-tinged mountains excites you, look no further than The Claremont Hotel. And, if hiking mountains to 360-degree panoramic vistas excites you, look no further than Acadia National Park. Read on to discover why The Claremont Hotel, just outside Acadia National Park, is a waterside gem.

Acadia National Park is a national treasure. After decades of overlooking beauty in my own backyard, I discover our national parks. Is it weird that my discovery overlaps Obama’s Netflix series, Our Great National Parks? Or can we all agree that he and I are kindred spirits? “Yes, we can!”

In the summer of 2020, when our overseas travel plans were so rudely interrupted, we decided to visit Utah’s Canyonlands and Arches National Parks. These desert parks were so deserted that I had no one to ask, ‘Where are you from?’. Or, ‘What brings you here?’. Questions all but guaranteed to embarrass my kids and husband.

Arches and Canyonlands encouraged us to fall back in love—with the USA.

So when a friend asked if I could join her on a girl’s trip, complete with a stay at The Claremont Hotel, including daily adventures to Bar Harbor, Mount Desert Island, and Acadia National Park, I didn’t hesitate to say, “Yes! Yes, I can!”

The Claremont Hotel + Acadia = Adventure + Luxury

Finding the optimal balance between adventure and luxury on a holiday is personal math. Some seek a 75/25 or 60/40 balance between the two. I strive for 50/50. Hmmm, does that sound like I’m satisfied with 50% of each? I’d like 100% each. So, I’m striving for a 100/100 balance. Is that even a thing? I hate math. You get the point.

The Claremont Hotel on Mount Desert Island is the consummate compliment to an adventure in Maine’s Acadia National Park. My sought-after 100/100. Unfortunately, I can’t take credit for finding this waterside escape on the edge of Somes Sound. What I can do is pass it along with reasons why it makes a heavenly home base for an Acadia National Park trip.

For me, passing on nuggets of inspiration so that others may enjoy it is what travel is all about. That’s certainly why this website exists. It’s no fun being the only one to know about a sensational travel destination like Acadia National Park or a hot place like the Claremont Hotel. Well, sometimes it’s fun. As long as I get there first.

The Claremont Hotel, first impressions

Our car weaves up and around rolling hills and through scenic towns like Bar Harbor. I see Mount Desert Island in the distance. I see handcrafted signs that cheer, ‘Welcome To Maine! The Way Life Should Be!’ I’ll be the judge of that, I think cynically.

When we pull into The Claremont Hotel’s long driveway I can’t help but take a moment’s pause. A soft landing for my eyes and ears. In front of me stands a grand, lily-white, three-story home set against a cornflower blue sky. I hear the lulling melody of seagulls overhead.

Fuchsia geraniums and forest green ivy cascade over window boxes. A carpet of short, manicured grass lead my gaze toward the mirror-calm sound. Mountains rise majestically in the distance. I pause a little longer, resisting the urge to snap, tag, and post.

I feel like I’m home. I’ve yet to step onto the full wraparound porch or into the Claremont Hotel itself. I’ve been here less than five minutes and I’m already disappointed I’ll eventually have to leave. I know a treasure when I see one.

The Claremont Hotel, The Captain’s Choice

The Claremont Hotel is a historic and impeccably maintained six-acre property on Southwest Harbor, near Acadia National Park. It was built as a summer destination for wealthy families to escape the oppressive summer heat of the northeast. Its location near Bar Harbor was hand-picked by a retired sea captain named Jesse Pease. Capt. Jesse knew a treasure when he saw one, too.

Built in 1883, the Claremont Hotel was family-run until 1908 when it was sold to a local doctor. In 2020, it was bought by hospitality guru and real estate developer, Tim Harrington. Mr. Harrington is also the man behind other magnificent Maine properties like Hidden Pond and Tides Beach Club.

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The Claremont Hotel: Sights and Scents

Upon entering the hotel, I first notice a tall, white ceramic dog sitting regally on a window ledge. Instead of facing inwards toward the room, this stoic Doberman is facing out, admiring the lavish grounds, just like me.

The next thing I notice isn’t visible. It’s sandalwood—the Claremont Hotel’s signature scent. Signature scents are all the rage these days. I saunter past the Doberman, knowing full well I’m being lured into the gift shop against my will. Now, every time I enter my living room in DC I’m reminded that I’m no longer at the beautiful Claremont Hotel. Pavlov’s theory was no joke.

The Claremont Hotel’s main house has common spaces that ignite my love of interior design and all things pretty. To say I swoon is an understatement. Patterns I’d expect to clash, instead harmonize. Palettes that I’ve always disliked, I suddenly love. Sister Parish paper wraps the walls. It’s textile nirvana—as if the DC Design Center exploded and thousands of colorful fabric samples were forced to find new soul mates.

Each piece of furniture feels collected rather than bought. Every coffee table book appears well-read and well-loved. The room has an ever-burning fireplace and a games table where I spy guests actually gaming. And I don’t mean Xbox. It’s so accommodating and peaceful, that I’m tempted to sink into a chair and stay there indefinitely.

But I don’t. There’s so much to explore both indoors and out at The Claremont Hotel. I only have three days. Time is of the essence.

The Claremont Hotel: A room, cottage, or house, with a view

I’d normally gravitate towards a cottage or house when at a property like the Claremont Hotel. But I wouldn’t have traded my intimate and bright guest room in the main house of this gorgeous Acadia hotel for any other that week. This being a girls’ trip, I have a room to myself—a rare event, indeed. I don’t take it for granted.

The main house has three and a half floors and 24 guest rooms. The rooms facing the front of the Claremont Hotel have the before-mentioned window boxes. The rooms facing Somes sound receive the morning sun. Beds have piles of cushy pillows propped up against William Morris fabric-covered headboards. Fabric-covered headboards are propped up against patterned-covered walls. Patterns rule at The Claremont. I’m tempted to stay in my room all day to admire them.

But I don’t. Acadia National Park is calling. And my friend is antsy to get going. She’s a very fast walker. The last time we hiked together was in Uganda tracking the Silverback Gorillas. I’m hoping she slows her pace this time. These views don’t weigh 600 lbs and move.

Acadia calls

Lest I forget the reason for our trip—three days of taxing trails, peaks, and panoramas in Acadia National Park. At nearly 50,000 acres, the park includes natural coastlines with rocky headlands, exposed granite rock faces, and U-shaped valleys. It has biodiverse wetlands, stone beaches, and pine forests. Pretty impressive stats, Acadia. I’m putting on my hiking boots now. Be patient!

Acadia National Park is home to Cadillac Mountain, the tallest mountain on America’s eastern seaboard. Tack on 158 miles of hiking trails, 27 miles of motorized roads, and 45 miles of pedestrian-only carriage roads, and I easily calculate, (even with my miserable math skills), that I don’t have enough time here.

Built between 1913 and 1940, the historic carriage road network was a gift from philanthropist and oil tycoon John D. Rockefeller. Sixteen low-arched granite bridges connect the pebble-lined paths. Mr. Rockefeller, an avid horseman, was adamant the park be non-motorized. I hope his horses appreciated the gesture.

Off-Season Rules

We visit Maine in mid-May, which is considered off-season. My friend warns us that Mother Nature isn’t always kind to Maine in May and tells us to prepare for cold and rain. Ever the rule follower, I do just that, despite the weather forecast that continues to predict sunnier and warmer climes than the destination I’m coming from.

Over the next three days, I’m ridiculed for my over-preparedness. Go ahead and laugh. Had we gotten lost, I would have been the only one with a baggie of trail mix and a Stroopwafel.

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The Ladders and Loops of Acadia National Park

This brings me to our Acadia park hikes. As advertised, the 3.3-mile Ladder Trail Loop that leads to the summit of Dorr Mountain includes a series of ladders to help scale the rock faces. I liken the Ladder Trail to an open-air StairMaster.

Any part of the trail that is not a ladder is a steep granite step. I curse the person who made these steps. I curse the person who invented ladders. My quads curse me. But then we get to the summit and all is forgiven.

The following morning, we tackle St. Saveur and Acadia Mountains. A 3.9-mile loop with two glorious mountain peaks. The trail meanders around lichen and moss-covered boulders. Gnarled, ancient tree trunks appear rooted in the rocks themselves.

The pines have clusters of lavender buds against green needles. Wild purple Rhodora emerges en masse and frames the distant views. Little kelly green ferns unfurl. Later, I recognize these very colors sewn into the fabrics at The Claremont. Mother Nature’s palette never disappoints.

The trail takes us above the conifer tree line for a rewarding water-filled view. More than once we get turned around and retrace our steps to find the trail markers. No one mentions my stash of Stroopwafels, but I know they are jealous.

Stop and smell the blueberries

Maine may be known for blueberries, but in mid-May, we are out of luck. I’m willing to sacrifice the plump blueberries to the bears in order to have the trails to ourselves.

Acadia National Park, however, thrives in ways well beyond flowering and fruiting shrubs. Evergreen pitch pines and colorful native woodland flora abound. At the water’s edge, I peer into mini eco-systems living within the tidal pools. While we don’t see much wildlife, I’m told there are otters, deer, red foxes, and of course, bears, if you look hard enough.

The Claremont Hotel: Porchin’

We survive the hike, the ladders, the granite StairMaster, and the bears. Time to bask in our accomplishments. Back at the Claremont Hotel, a hot shower beckons, followed by a front-row seat on an evergreen rattan porch rocker with a glass of wine. The rest of my day will be rosé-tinted and food-centric.

The porch. It’s undoubtedly the best outdoor spot at The Claremont Hotel. In the foreground, there is a welcoming heated pool, with pink and white striped umbrellas that summon up scenes from Dirty Dancing. (Ugh. I forgot to avoid all cultural references that reveal my age.)

The pool is surrounded by an intricate pattern of lattice-cut grass. At the Claremont Hotel, even the lawn has patterns. In the distance, there are mountains to daydream about climbing. On the porch, there are green blankets in a basket to take the edge off the crisp air. I savor the soothing built-in beauty of the hotel while reflecting on our day. I reflect on Patrick Swayze. My 100/100 balance of luxury and adventure is realized.

Meet Harry and Fern

I’d be remiss if I didn’t introduce Harry and Fern. Two ways to enjoy dining and drinking at the Claremont Hotel. What a coincidence that these happen to be my two favorite post-hike activities.

The Claremont Hotel’s main restaurant, Little Fern, isn’t little, but somehow still feels cozy. Kudos to the interior design team for the homey touches. Built-in bookcases, a fireplace, soft banquettes, an entire wall of windows, and a large bar that has us making friends at first sip.

I order a cocktail that matches the ever-present hot pink geraniums. I’m nothing if not matchy-matchy. Ask anyone. Even my dogs match.

The food is good, although the portions are too large, even for hungry post-hikers like us. My risotto entrée could have fed the city of Milan. By the next night, we decide to share, which is more fun anyway. Perfetto!

The Claremont Hotels’ clubby, chummy Harry’s Bar is the kind of place to snuggle into with a tumbler of bourbon at an antique chessboard. I don’t drink bourbon or play chess, but Harry’s Bar makes me feel like I should. I imagine Harry’s is best visited on nights when the porch is too cold, but that said, I’d be hard-pressed to pass up having a drink there despite the weather.

Swarthy sea captains peer down on us from oil paintings above. I hope Cpt. Jesse doesn’t mind the bar is named after some yahoo named Harry.

A fine balance

I do the math again and get the same outcome. The combo of The Claremont Hotel and a visit to Acadia National Park strikes an ideal balance between luxury and adventure. You need not be an artist, designer, or photographer to appreciate the natural beauty of both. The colors rooted in Acadia and Mount Desert Island are mirrored at the Claremont—gem tones like emeralds, sapphires, and pink tourmaline abound.

A national treasure is defined as ‘something that is greatly valued by the people of a country.’ With its all-encompassing natural beauty, Acadia National Park certainly fits the definition. Combine Acadia National Park with a stay at the Claremont Hotel and they become a treasured pair. “Maine! The way life should be!” Can we agree on that, Barack?

“Yes, we can!”

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June 23, 2022
How To Spend An Unforgettable Weekend In Joshua Tree

There are countless ways to spend a weekend in and around Joshua Tree National Park. Bike, hike, climb, stargaze. Take a sound bath, watch the sunrise, and spot a shooting star. Rent a vintage Airstream or a modern Airbnb. How you spend a weekend in Joshua Tree is personal, and sometimes spiritual. Need some inspiration to plan a weekend in Joshua Tree? You’re in the right place.

Desert sky
Dream beneath the desert sky
The rivers run, but soon run dry
We need new dreams tonight

—In God’s Country, U2

The Joshua Tree, circa 1987

I storm out of the house. A flimsy metal headband secures foam-covered earbuds to my head. Tangled cords attach my head to a fiery yellow Sony Walkman Sport. The color is appropriate, as it matches my blazing teenage angst.

It’s March of 1987 and U2 has just released The Joshua Tree. Without exaggeration, it’s a defining moment in my ego-centric, music-driven teenage life. The album, their 5th, may have catapulted U2 to superstardom, but I’m already in deep. I know every song lyric from War, Boy, Under a Blood Red Sky, and The Unforgettable Fire, by heart.

I’m 17 years old. Ecstatic and furious at the same time. Two sides of the same record.

I haven’t a clue what a Joshua tree is, or where it’s found. Only now, decades later, do I find myself in God’s Country, the very part of the world that inspired these eleven unforgettable songs.

Joshua Tree, A brief history

Joshua Tree National Park is in southeast California, about 50 minutes from Palm Springs, but easily accessed by car from Los Angeles, Las Vegas, or San Diego. It outsizes the state of Rhode Island ever-so-slightly at 795,156 acres.

It’s named after the signature Joshua trees (Yucca brevifolia) that are native to the Mojave Desert. Joshua trees are succulents closely related to the agave plant. If your mind shoots straight to tequila then you and my husband are kindred spirits.

I learn from Wikipedia, that the Joshua tree is a symbol of faith and hope in the midst of aridity. Early Mormon settlers named them after the prophet Joshua, as the branches reminded them of him raising his arms in prayer.

To me, the shape of the Joshua tree looks like my son when I accuse him of devouring the last two pints of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream. His arms rise up defensively in disbelief while I point out empty cartons of Americone Dream and The Tonight Dough in the garbage bin.

A pile of rocks and a sea of stars

Among the two best reasons to spend a weekend in Joshua Tree are the rocks and the stars. Some of the park’s oldest rocks are 1.7 billion years old and owe their shape to groundwater that has eroded their hard edges. 1.7 billion years is hard to comprehend, and I imagine this ancient timeline contributes to the spirituality of the area.

Golden boulders look like overlapping mounds of soft, drippy sand kids create on the beach. I climb a pile of these massive rocks. In every direction, I see specks of human life. Some are sitting, eyes wide open, absorbing the vortices of the desert. Others are meditating, eyes closed in contemplation. The serenity of the park is palpable. No wonder it attracts 3 million visitors a year.

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A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Stargazing

Joshua Tree National Park is a stargazing utopia. It’s certified by International Dark Sky Parks as one of the best natural ‘dark sky’ places in the world. The IDSP has been ‘protecting the night from light pollution since 1988’. That’s just one year after The Joshua Tree was released. I wonder if Bono knows about this?

With astrotourism (yes, astrological tourism is a thing) on the rise, the eastern side of the park provides some of the darkest skies in the area. If you want to get closer to the universe, this is the place to do it.

Our Airbnb is located about 15 minutes from the park’s west entrance. The sky at night looks infinite in its lunar starkness. We spend hours flat on our backs to take it in.

I try not to blink. The sky is awash in stars brighter than I’ve ever seen. The Milky Way is showing off. More than once a meteor silently screams across the sky, with a long tail of energy trailing behind. Those who see it shout in delight while the ones who don’t pout and say we’ve made it up. This nightly activity is a highlight of my weekend in Joshua Tree. I’d declare myself starry-eyed if it weren’t such an awful pun.

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: The Park

Joshua Tree is easy to tackle in one day, or in our case, just a few hours. Perhaps lounging around the Airbnb all morning with a cappuccino is not the optimal way to plan a national park day. By the time we finally head out we realize our lunch will be so ill-timed it threatens to spill into dinner. Some of us, me, are already hangry.

Since we blow through the park at breakneck speed, I’ll identify must-see places for future reference. I don’t recall which landmarks we visit that day as I’m so ravenous I can’t see straight. Thankfully the park itself is so tranquil and peaceful, that I’m able to put my hunger aside to enjoy it.

A few highlights follow, in semi-logical order. Don’t blame me if you get lost, I’m not a travel advisor for good reason.

A few highlights

The route starting from the south entrance towards the west entrance could look like this:

Cholla Cactus Garden: A great place to begin, especially for sunrise junkies. The masses of soft and fluffy-looking cacti species are sweetly called Teddybear Cholla, but I wouldn’t attempt to cuddle one.

Arch Rock: At 30 feet across, this natural arch at Joshua Tree doesn’t rival its counterparts at Arches National Park, but it’s still worth a look. Joshua Tree allows visitors to climb the boulders making the park feel like a prehistoric playground.

Skull Rock: A rock shaped like, you guessed it, a skull. Kind of underwhelming. Possibly due to the throng of visitors or the straight-up fact that I’m still really hungry. Skull Rock is located just off the side of the road so it’s easy to do a fly-by if the crowds are overwhelming.

Keys View: For sunset chasers, head to Keys View to catch the late afternoon sun that enhances the colors of the landscape. Rivers of the past are now a dusty mocha brown, and snake between the arid valleys. All in all, it’s nothing short of spectacular.

Author’s Note: In case you’re curious about our lunch crisis (and something tells me you’ve quickly forgotten it) I’ll fill you in. We pull up to Pappy & Harriet’s jam-packed parking lot at 230pm and are told there’s a 45-minute wait. Ugh. Next time, I’m packing a picnic.

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Beyond the rocks

Joshua Tree National Park’s surrounding areas have much to offer beyond the park itself. Three of the main nearby towns are Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley, and Twentynine Palms. Each lies within a short drive to one of the park’s three entrances (north, south, or west). Each has its own homestead desert vibe, quirky attractions, and accommodation options.

Rock Shops and Crystals

I don’t plan to visit Joshua Tree to get in touch with my spiritual side, but it’s hard to avoid. The area is oozing with opportunities to experience spirituality. Yoga retreats, sound baths, and ancient vortices are just a few ways to recharge and relax.

The Joshua Tree Rock Shop sells gems and crystals that each have their own characteristics and healing properties. Collect a piece of Amber so you can carry around your very own piece of the sun. Or, Angelite to communicate with Spirit Guides. I buy Amethyst for my daughter, to counter negative energy. And Rose Quartz for myself to cope with negative daughters.

Our trip revolves around a friend’s birthday. We are a group of six, three couples, who have known each other for over 15 years. Between us, we fall into the wide array of types that are drawn to this far-flung part of the country—artists, musicians, writers, and yogis, among us. Joshua Tree is a retreat with wide appeal. It’s hard to imagine anyone not finding comfort and peace here.

Wine and Rocks

With organic wines, craft beers, gems, crystals, stones, and good vibes, the Wine and Rock Shop is as eclectic as they come. Walk in and stock up on Tutu’s Tortilla Chips and a bottle of Gearhead Crazy Sexy Cool wine for a post-hike snack. Leave with a Blue Agate Plate to improve concentration. Wait, what did I come in for again? Go ahead and get distracted. It’s all good here.

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A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Getting Spiritual

The Integraton looks like a 50-year-old sci-fi movie set. Located in Landers, CA, about 20 miles north of the park, and built in 1954, this geodesic structure is a well-known sound bath and a historically recognized place for rejuvenation.

While it’s said to be created according to the design direction of extraterrestrials, the Integraton is worth a visit whether you believe in life beyond our planet or not. I’m pretty open-minded, but can’t quite wrap my head around aliens as art director. If nothing else, its Instagram-ability is reason enough to go.

The Integraton is built on a powerful intersection of geomagnetic forces which is thought to amplify the earth’s magnetic field. The 60-minute sound bath experience promotes sonic healing and total relaxation. As you might imagine, it’s highly popular and needs to be booked well in advance.

Is it all bit woo-woo? Yes! But that’s part of why I’m here. I want to get out of my light-polluted city and into a different mental state. I’d like to explore the desert in all of its glory. If that happens to include lying down under a blanket with 40 strangers in a sci-fi movie-esque, alien-engineered, geo-dome that’s miles from civilization, sign me up.

The experience is, umm, different. I wish I could say I felt the powerful forces of the earth’s magnetism beneath me. I wish I felt electrically charged and noticeably changed afterward. Perhaps I’m not evolved enough. Wearing a face mask didn’t help my breathing technique and someone next to me was snoring. I won’t name names. Enrico.

Jokes aside, it’s an intriguing experience I’d like to do again (sans facemasks) someday. The dome is so ET-friendly that I’m afraid it might get sucked up into space before I get a chance to revisit it.

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Where to stay

Airbnbs are prevalent in Joshua Tree. So much so that the New York Times recently wrote an article begging the question “Is 1,818 Airbnbs Too Many in Joshua Tree?” Our Airbnb, Tierra Del Sol, is so remote we get lost driving the dirt roads back to it at night. To think there are 1,817 others nearby is mind-boggling.

Yet, there’s little doubt the modern desert aesthetic has been rebranded in Joshua Tree, partially due to Instagram and a boom of COVID-induced domestic travel. The ‘Joshua Tree look’ is pretty hard to dislike, especially for those of us on the east coast who don’t live near nude-shaded landscapes with dried botanical gardens and cowhide rugs.

The ‘Joshua Tree look’ can be summed up as boho, high-desert swank sprinkled with bleached-out antlers, hand-woven baskets, rattan poofs, and cowboy hot tubs. That summation is a bit wordy but necessary for accuracy.

Fireplace mantles are oh-so-perfectly staged with stone buddhas, cacti, crystals, and local pottery. Tack on Wolf ranges and Miele built-in coffee machines and you’d think Design Within Reach changed its creative model to Eat-Pray-Love-homestead chic.

Some Airbnbs accessorize their properties with pétanque courts, stand-alone lounges, and windswept, curtain-lined, wedding chapels.

Others boast low eco-footprint, energy-efficient, zero waste accommodations alongside giant gas-lit fire pits.

Others are practically invisible.

PC: The Invisible House

The Invisible House

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the overwhelming, overpublicized, and overpriced Invisible House.

Mirroring nature—and I mean literally mirroring nature, this $4050/night property is set on 90-desert acres. It has, among other amenities, its own 4,000 ft. mountain and 100 ft. indoor pool. It’s a visual feast for those who don’t mind the mountainous price tag.

PC: The Invisible House

The 5500 sq. ft. 22-story horizontal structure sleeps only six, but if you have more guests, fear not. They can stay in the 720 sq. ft. pre-fab ‘escape pod’ somewhere else on the property. Just don’t expect them to still be your friends afterward.

Don’t want to shell out $4050 a night for a weekend at Joshua Tree’s Invisible House? No worries, it can be all yours for the bargain price of $1,750 an hour. Instagram it and get out.

Desert Vintage circa 1975

Airstreams in Joshua Tree are all the rage, not to mention a way to get up close and personal with the desert. The features that accompany some of these vintage trailers are as unusual as the surroundings themselves.

PC: Airbnb

Some Airstreams have swinging queen sized-beds for stargazing. Others have metal barrel hot tubs, outdoor living spaces, and raised wooden decks adorned with twinkling fairy lights. Really? Who needs the fairy lights when you have the starry skies above?

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Where to eat

The beauty of an Airbnb stay is the ability to cook your own meals. It’s simultaneously a downfall for those who go on vacation to not cook. As always, balance wins. We decide to eat a few lunches out but have breakfasts and dinners in. This turns out to be a hidden blessing as there’s no way we’d be able to find the house at night anyway. This is an International Dark Sky Zone, mind you.

One night a local chef creates a feast for the birthday girl’s dinner, while other nights we grill, sit by the fire pit, and stargaze with a bottle of wine.

For those seeking ultra-fine dining, the desert is not the place for you. Most restaurants are casual and informal.

Worth a mention

La Copine: This 42-seat highway-side, uber-casual eatery attracts foodies for miles. And for good reason. Said to have the best fried chicken in the desert (am I the only one wondering where the chickens live in the desert?) the menu tackles items like artichoke toast, Spanish crispy rice, and duck confit among other culinary delights. Eclectic indeed, and highly sought after.

Pappy & Harriett’s: Go early or don’t go, in my humble opinion. But if you’re as hungry as I am when you arrive, everything will taste as if it’s prepared by a Michelin-starred chef.

A convivial hangout if there ever was one, Pappy’s is the place to listen to live music, dance, and throw back a pint of beer along with some baby back ribs. If you have to wait for a table—AND YOU WILL—you can pass the time in Pioneertown, conveniently located a short walk behind the restaurant.

Pioneertown is as cheesy as it sounds. Built as an old western movie set in the 40s, it has all of the expected kitsch from the General Store, Red Dog Saloon, and fancy soap goats. Ok, maybe that part is not expected. What’s a soap goat? Maybe you can find out. You’ll have lots of time to kill.

The Natural Sisters Cafe: The website reads “Food made with kindness, focus and love.” Who can argue with that philosophy? Known for vegetarian and plant-based wraps, sandwiches, and smoothies, this local eatery caters to the breakfast and lunch crowd. Located close to the Joshua Tree entrance, it’s an especially good spot to hit before you head into the park.

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Outside it’s America

On the last morning of our short weekend in Joshua Tree, I wake up before sunrise. On purpose. This is unusual for me. I value sleep more than just about anything, except perhaps wine and coffee.

I sneak outside just as the first rays are rising over the distant mountains, some of which are still snow-capped in March. The mountain range silhouette is razor-sharp on this unusually cold morning. I race back inside to grab a blanket (in shades of desert neutrals, naturally) wooly hat, and fuzzy birks. Desert cold is no joke.

It’s worth the early hour and cold feet. The scene illustrates why an Irish band would pay homage to the open spaces of America. I summon up the theatrical and melodic notes of Where The Streets Have No Name—the first song on the album. I stand still.

It’s written in the Stars

As I write, the haunting harmony of The Joshua Tree envelops me—this time tangle-free on my wireless AirPods and iPhone 13. The music is as ethereal and transporting as it was then. But now I listen to it through the framework of Joshua Tree—the place.

What connected me to the music back then is realized decades later on the deck of this gorgeous desert house. The soundtrack of my teenage life comes back with a roar. Milky blue desert skies and cracked riverbeds are lyrical elements of U2’s best-selling album. They define the music and this vast landscape, but also a state of mind. I vow to see the park again one day to spend more time absorbing it.

When I do, I’ll make sure I eat first.

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May 23, 2022
5 Top 5 Travel Wish Lists: Where To Go Right Now

I’m at Black Coffee, sitting on a cushy, green leather banquette—my usual spot. On my right are two well-heeled Washingtonians talking about Koks, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in, wait for it—the Faroe Islands. I can’t contain my excitement! I know Koks–it’s on my travel wish list! How in the world do they know about Koks? I’m dying to ask. Then reconsider.

That would be weird.

My excitement manifests physically. It’s like I’ve had six espresso shots in as many minutes. I’m quite literally bouncing off the banquette. The women leave rather suddenly. I wonder if my bouncing has something to do with it.

What’s the point?

Let me back up a few hours—to 8am in my kitchen. I settle into a swivel chair with an oat milk cappuccino. I swirl, twirl, and sip while playing Worlde, Quordle, and Spelling Bee. This perky combination of caffeine and wordplay ignites my brain on even the dreariest DC mornings.

That the outcome of these games determines my mood is an overstatement. But I’d be lying if I said the days I get Wordle-in-two doesn’t feel good. Combine that with ‘genius’ status on Spelling Bee and a winning Quordle, and it’s the trifecta of morning happiness. Sometimes I go right back to bed, exhausted from having overachieved so early in the day.

I’ve devoted a paragraph to my New York Times-centric morning routine for good reason. ‘Geez, get to the point already!’, you’re thinking. The point is, while most mornings are uneventful and dominated by a trio of silly brainteasers, some days I overhear a pair of chatty women in a coffee shop, and my brain kicks into overdrive.

Travel talk gives me a jolt as powerful as those six shots of espresso. It fuels me in a way that can only be described in multiple coffee-related metaphors. As illustrated by my encounter at Black Coffee, being a participant in the conversation is irrelevant.

Travel Wish Lists

My travel wish list has been curated from multiple trustworthy sources. Sources like Condé Nast Traveler’s ‘Gold List’, Travel+Leisure’s ‘It List’, Forbes Travel Guide’s Star Award Winners, and San Pellegrino’s ‘World’s Best List’. And increasingly more often from the most-addictive travel resource ever—Instagram. My wish list is always at hand, by which I mean is on my phone, which is always in my hand.

‘But, where to begin?’ My travel wish list is a lengthy, unorganized account of hotels, lodges, countries, cities, ranches, and restaurants. An inventory of adventures, experiences, and expeditions. Describing them all would far exceed my typical 2500-word count.

I pause to think. (This pause lasts a week). My brain, only moments ago on a Quorldle high, is now creatively stuck. I’m swimming in mental cement.

Aha! I’ll list my top five travel wish lists. Not only will it be entertaining to write, but it will also force me to organize this ongoing, unsystematic list that has been vexing me for years.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Wish List v. Lust List

Years ago, I created an entry in my ‘Notes’ app called, ‘Travel Lust’. For the sake of SEO, I’m renaming it Travel Wish List. If you think the words Travel Wish List are being overused already, it’s not by accident. Anyone who’s had experience with Search Engine Optimization will understand why. And, I certainly don’t want this post to rank for ‘lust’. That’s someone else’s blog, I mean, website.

My top five travel wish lists in five categories follow. Hotels and Resorts, Lodges and Retreats, Experiences, Countries, and Culinary Adventures. One winner and four other winners per category. There are no losers, it’s a wish list remember.

This is going to be fun, and possibly very expensive—for all of us.

Want all 5 wish lists in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

PC: Hotel Esencia

My Travel Wish List: 5 / Hotels and Resorts

Wish List Winner: Hotel Esencia, Xpu-Ha, Mexico

Last month, a friend sent me an article about Hotel Esencia, in Mexico. After reading it, I sent it to my husband Daniel, explaining my deep need to go there. He now deeply dislikes her.

This happens often, much to my husband’s chagrin. Many of these seemingly harmless emails turn into future three-night, non-refundable deposits. My list is longer than I have time or money to accomplish. But please, keep sending. Daniel will need to postpone retirement for a few more years. I’m sure he’s ok with that.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Esencia sky-rocketed to the top of my travel wish list. Conceptualized by a Hollywood producer and entrepreneur, the hotel’s 45 rooms and suites, and three uber-sophisticated villas were once the private hideaway of Italian duchess, Rosa de Ferrari. Lucky duchess.

Quiet, unassuming, and refined luxury abounds. Located between Tulum and Cancún, Esencia’s home-away-from-home vibe is intentional (that is, if your home is beachside, flanked by jungles, and includes sea turtle nesting grounds).

Morning treats are delivered to rooms through secret cubby holes. That’s pretty irresistible. I imagine enjoying warm brioches and flaky croissants while lounging in my pjs. The bold, bright tropical decor adds to the hotel’s glamour. It reminds me of Mondrian, the Dutch painter who rejected perceived reality and stripped form down to its most basic elements. Esencia’s palette is a refreshing change from most Mexican resorts which rely heavily on traditional colors and rustic furnishings.

The yoga loft is insta-perfect, with ecru, crocheted hammocks hanging below an open-air wooden platform. My savasana would surely last hours, which would put me at risk of missing afternoon cocktails. I’d best leave the chaturangas to Daniel.

PC: Hotel Esencia

USP (Unique Selling Point):

Esencia’s two-story, Rooftop Wellness Suite is the ultimate in modern Mayan jungle luxury. With a full-sized pool, multiple terraces, and a private fitness studio (including a Peloton bike and The Mirror), I see no compelling reason to leave it. As an aside, I see no compelling reason for a private fitness studio, either. I’m on holiday. I’ll punish myself with The Mirror when I get home, thank you.

This premiere suite acts as a ‘hotel within a hotel’ at this sweeping 50-acre estate. So, if you’d like to go on a resort holiday without having to see another soul, Hotel Esencia is the place for you. It’s most definitely the place for me.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Note: August 26, 2022. As I place the finishing touches on this post, Forbes Travel Guide has just announced today that Hotel Esencia earned its coveted five-star award for 2022. Well deserved Esencia, but now I’ll never be able to get a reservation. (See how I’m able to be both topical and tropical at the same time here?)

Four other winners:

Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur, California

Hacienda AltaGracia, Costa Rica

San Domenico Palace, Taormina, Italy

One&Only Moonlight Basin, Montana (Opening 2024)

Why did these make the list?

Each of these hotels and brands is not only top of its class in terms of service and accommodations but also takes style and artistry to innovative levels.

Swoon over the organic architecture and natural coastal beauty at Post Ranch Inn. Spot the elusive Quetzal in Costa Rica at Hacienda AltaGracia. Prepare to get lost in the Montana wilderness, at One&Only’s first US-based resort. The Four Seasons’ San Domenico Palace in Italy is a restored 14th-century convent with views of Mount Etna. Enough said.

Click the links at your own risk. Yes, they are expensive. Whoever said, ‘you can’t take it with you,’ is my soul mate.

PC: Islas Secas

My Travel Wish List: 4 / Lodges and Retreats

Wish List Winner: Islas Secas, Panama

I’m reluctant to write about Islas Secas. I don’t want you to know about it. Yes, that’s how selfish I am. That I’d rather not write about a hot, new destination for fear that you get there before I do is indefensible.

I’d like to go to Panama before every else has it on their radar. Ten years ago we told friends we were headed to Costa Rica. We may as well have said we were taking the kids to North Korea on a beach holiday. Look at Costa Rica now—the epicenter of spring break family travel.

As is evident by its name, Islas Secas is an island. An archipelago, to be more clear, comprised of 14 volcanic islands off the Pacific coast of the country. With iconographic names like Isla Barracuda, Isla Iguana, and Isla Coco, I imagine days snorkeling beside shiny, snake-like fish, photographing colorful reptiles, and drinking from oversized coconuts. Over-caffeinated yet again, my imagination runs wild.

Panamanian design is everywhere; light, breezy tactile fabrics, plantation shutters, and thatched rooftops. The four-bedroom Casita Grande looks especially captivating. I daydream about a milestone birthday there. It could be mine, a friend’s, or a neighbor’s. I’m not going to be picky.

PC: Islas Secas

USP:

The website affirms Islas Secas’ devotion to sustainable and nature-driven tourism. It tempts me with stats like 750 species of fish, 80 species of birds, and humpback whale-watching.

When I read the website, I almost can’t bear it. I bounce again, the universal sign for overexcitement.

I think you should go. And I think you should take me with you.

Four other winners:

Taylor River Lodge, Colorado

Bishop’s Lodge, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Kachi Lodge, Bolivia

Mashpi Lodge, Ecuador

Why did these make the list?

It’s a secret to no one who keeps up with luxury and adventure retreats that these four make the list. Known for tailor-made, one-of-a-kind experiences, Eleven Experience owns 13 remote properties around the world. Its Colorado-based Taylor River Lodge was once a local fishing and tackle shop before it became an off-the-grid, eight-cabin river retreat.

Auberge-owned Bishop’s Lodge in Santa Fe embraces the rich mountain colors of New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo range. Each room, with woven Navajo rugs and textiles, is a sanctuary unto its own.

Kachi or Mashpi? Both/and, please. This duo of South American lodges is equally breathtaking. Mashpi Lodge is set deep in the Chocó-Andean Cloud Forest. No, I didn’t make that up. Conversely, Kachi Lodge sits at the foot of the Tunupa Volcano, and atop Bolivia’s famed Uyuni Salt Flats. Cloud Forest or Salt Flat? How to choose? I’ll repeat. Both/and.

Want all 5 winners in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

My Travel Wish List: 3 / Travel Experiences

Wish List Winner: Explore the Galápagos Islands via Pikaia Lodge

I must have a thing for archipelagos because here I am adding yet another to my list. Archipelagos are obviously all the rage.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

One thousand kilometers off of the Ecuadorian coast lies 19 islands of marine wonders—the Galápagos Islands. They are often referred to as a ‘unique living museum of evolution’. If that isn’t a tantalizing travel soundbite, I don’t know what is.

That the Galápagos Islands’ wildlife lacks natural predators is pretty well-known. This is partly due to the islands’ volcanic origin and extreme remoteness. I’d love to swim with sea lions, dolphins, and giant tortoises. I want to admire exotic birds and uncover species that don’t exist anywhere else in the world. The animals are approachable and tame (and I hear they love the camera). Sign me up.

USP:

Pikaia Lodge’s prime access to this extraordinary part of the world is why it pairs so organically with a Galápagos Island adventure. Pikaia Lodge is a luxury eco-adventure property with cutting-edge architecture and a strong environmentally conscious mindset. Its 14 rooms sit 450 meters above sea level on the edge of an extinct volcano. I’ve always wanted to stay on the edge of an extinct volcano, (rather than an active one), naturally.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

Pikaia Lodge is entirely carbon-neutral and is made up of stone, lava, glass, and steel. This striking architectural combination doesn’t attempt to steal the limelight from the landscape. It looms high over Santa Cruz Island as if it too is leisurely observing the wonders of the Galápagos.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

Four other winners:

Hike Acadia National Park, Maine

Vineyard stay in Bordeaux

Photography Safari in Namibia

Polar Expedition to Antarctica

Why did these make the list?

Hiking at Acadia National Park complements my passion for photographing panoramic views. A vineyard stay in Bordeaux embraces my obsession with cabernets, berets, and soufflés. (I don’t actually like berets, but I’ll do anything for cadence). My love of wildlife would be taken to extremes in Antarctica and Africa.

Narrowing down my top five travel experiences is a challenge. Each time I think I have a final list, another idea emerges. It’s like whack-a-mole in my head. That these five experiences align with my favorite activities is no surprise. What is a surprise is how well these wish lists are acting as birthday, anniversary, and Christmas gift lists, too! I’m nothing if not efficient.

PC: Dylan Shaw, Unsplash

My Travel Wish List: 2 / Countries

Wish List Winner: The Faroe Islands

Do you know where the Faroe Islands are? Despite my current obsession with this self-governing nation, I didn’t know exactly where they were either. I’ve since learned this archipelago of 18 mountainous islands (yes, another archipelago!) is located halfway between Scotland and Iceland and is named after sheep. I love sheep! Now, I want to go there more than ever.

PC: Marc Zimmer, Unsplash

Turf-roofed houses are nurtured by the year-round rainy climate. Even your year-round rain isn’t enough to deter me, Faroe Islands. And I hate getting wet.

PC: Lynn Fae, Unsplash

The hamlets of the Faroe Islands are the stuff of fairy tales. Frodo would feel at home in the shire-like countryside. Lakes, lagoons, and lighthouses are all virtually untouched by tourism. At least for the moment. That I’d like to get there before everyone else reinforces just how selfish I am.

Four other winners:

Panama

Bolivia

Ecuador

Namibia

Why did these make the list?

If you’ve read this far, it’s clear why these countries round out this travel wish list. They each have resorts, hotels, retreats, or experiences I would love to visit or do one day. They are also countries not quite on the mainstream travel radar.

PC: Beinta á Torskilsheyggi

My Travel Wish List: 1 / Culinary Adventures

Wish List Winner: Koks, The Faroe Islands

What a coincidence! If you believe in coincidences, that is. The restaurant at the top of my culinary wish list is located at the top of my country wish list—the Faroe Islands. A visit there would be a travel wish list twofer. I wonder if I’ve lost Daniel by now?

Chef Poul Andrias Ziska is the culinary creator-in-chief behind Koks (which since my morning at Black Coffee, I learn has been temporarily relocated to Greenland). That’s ok, I’m in no rush. That he uses mainly Faroese ingredients in his Michelin-starred dishes compels me to open up another tab and find out exactly what those ingredients are.

PC: Claes Bech-Poulsen

Being a set of islands should be a significant clue. However, beyond fish and seafood, the Faroese diet consists of organic lamb, fermented meat, and root vegetables like kohlrabi, turnips, and rhubarb. I wonder if the two ladies at Black Coffee are aware of this?

Koks is known as the ‘world’s most remote foodie destination.’ Its imaginative dishes follow the seasons and its architecture follows the traditional Nordic style. I will follow Koks anywhere, even to Greenland, if I have to.

Left, PC: Claes Bech-Poulsen Right, PC: Beinta á Torskilsheyggi

Four other winners:

Single Thread, Healdsburg, California

The Three Chimneys, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Restaurant La Chassagnette, Provence, France

été, Tokyo

Why did these make the list?

Dine in the gardens of Arles-based, Michelin-starred La Chassagnette or at farm-inspired micro-seasonal Single Thread in Healdsburg, California. Their spectacular settings match their equally spectacular culinary offerings.

With no sign and one table, Restaurant été, run by female chef Natsuko Shoji, is one of the most coveted reservations in Tokyo. Her French-Japanese-inspired menu is considered flawless, as is her sense of style and design.

Finally, Three Chimneys marks yet another impossible-to-reach-but-worth-the-effort restaurant. It’s hidden on the dramatic shores of Loch Dunvegan on the Isle of Skye. The Nordic-Scottish epicurean experience can only be topped with a night’s stay at adjoining House-Over-By. Those Scots are nothing if not literal.

Want all 5 wish list winners in one place?
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Aspiration v. inspiration

On the surface, these lists seem superficial. ‘I want to go here. Eat there. Do this.’ I dig deeper into the ‘why’ and notice it’s the experiences I crave. Would I like those experiences to be in or near lovely places, at nice hotels, and with extraordinary food? Why, yes I would

There are many ways to experience cultures, countries, and food. Less expensive ways and more authentic ways, no doubt. This is my wish list so I get to choose the way I want to explore the world. You get to choose yours.

My lists are both aspirational and inspirational. Reading about them makes me happy. Sharing them with you makes me happier (earlier selfishness aside). Going to them would make me ecstatic.

Go big or stay home

My daily life in Washington DC revolves around a one-mile radius. I go to Black Coffee for golden lattes, Millie’s for overpriced salads, CVS to channel inner patience, and Battery Kemble Park to walk my labs. I like my routine, it centers me.

Sometimes inspiration strikes, whether by eavesdropping at Safeway or reading the Sunday Style section of the New York Times. I write lists. Sometimes those lists lead to trips where I leave my DC bubble and discover a far-flung corner of the globe. Sometimes they gather dust up there on the cloud.

But, the days I get Wordle-in-two? Watch out world, anything can happen.

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Author’s Note: I am grateful to the hotels, resorts, restaurants, and lodges who kindly gave me high-res photos for use in this post. I’m also using Unsplash for the first time, and praise the photographers who are giving away their gorgeous photos for free. Typically, I only feature my own photos. But alas, if I had my own pictures of these stunning places, they wouldn’t be on my wish list.

If you ever want to get in touch, ask a question, or discuss a way to partner, please email me at [email protected].

April 26, 2022
The Green O Strikes Gold. Montana’s Newest Luxury Retreat.
The green o is Montana’s answer to the latest travel trend: luxury-minded adventure escapes. A place that strikes the right balance of indulgence and adventure, and includes culinary experiences and tasting menus worth traveling for. Follow me to the green o, and read about the newest adults-only luxury retreat in the Montana wilderness.

“Are you sure the Sunset Trail goes through this field?” I ask my husband, warily.

“Trust me”, he replies, unhinging the creaky, metal gate, and ignoring the wooden sign marked: “DO NOT ENTER.” I bite my tongue, then follow.

We’ve been at the green o, Montana’s newest luxury adventure property, for all of two hours. My ‘adventure mindset’ is not yet fully formed. But here I am mountain biking toward a herd of hairy bison. Blind faith semi-firmly placed in my husband’s overly confident orienteering abilities.

Does anyone see the bright red flags waving in the distance? Unfortunately, I don’t.

Survival Skills at the green o, Montana

Daniel speeds past the bison with the grace of Chris Froome in the early stages of the Tour de France. I bumble along, struggling to find my balance. My shoes are too tight and my seat is too high. I can’t quite figure out the gears. I’m already parched.

I stop to take a photo—a thin disguise to catch my breath.

The bison look at me. One snorts loudly, breaking the silence of the pasture. Others chime in. Their collective snorting sounds threatening. They shake their massive wooly heads in utter disbelief, unleashing a flurry of flies.

“City folk”, they must be musing in their pea-sized brains, “Should we give them a free pass just this once?”

I feel judged. And rightly so. Daniel is miles ahead. I’m within 10 feet of these massive beasts and suddenly feel like a mid-morning snack. Daniel contends bison eat grass, not humans. But don’t grizzlies eat fish? Daniel has no comment, naturally.

Take deep breaths, I tell myself. Then channel my inner Soul Cycle warrior and power past them.

Spoiler alert, I survive.

The green o: Fields of Gold and Silver Linings

If the pasture where the Sunset Trail may or may not have cut through was any less captivating, I would have put down my size six sneaker in toddler-like defiance. But I see butter-yellow grasses glow against distant mountains. The bison, while terrifying, dot the field in wispy, chocolate-brown brush strokes.

The scene has all the makings of the 20th-century realist paintings I studied in Art History. A canvas imbued with the mysteriousness of Americana. Fields of gold and weathered farmhouses. An extraordinary sight for my city-centric eyes, and one of many Wyeth-inspired moments I discover at the green o.

So yes, I live to tell the tale. In the way of silver linings, I have more than a few bison portraits to show for it. And no permanent scars. Risk, meet reward.

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Welcome to The Green O

The green o (intentionally lowercase to exude an approachable, casual vibe) is an adults-only property located in the Blackfoot River Valley, in Greenough, Montana. It has 12-stand alone accommodations, each called a ‘haus’. If you are any good at math, you will quickly calculate that the green o has a max capacity of 24 guests.

Each haus accommodation at the green o is made from stunning combinations of wood, glass, and other stylized design elements. The hauses are scattered so haphazardly throughout the pine-laden property that they may well have sprung up from the earth itself. The green o refers to the hauses as romantic ‘glamping’ accommodations. But with eco-kitchens, outdoor hot tubs, and wood-burning fireplaces, they go well beyond any glamorous camping I’ve experienced.

The green o vs Paws Up

Hundreds of pines stand at attention in this small gated enclave on the southern edge of Paws Up near the scenic Blackfoot River. Paws Up Ranch is the sister property of the green o—a family-friendly resort established in 1915 by Paul Greenough. His property encompasses a whopping 37,000 acres of land. Well played, Paul.

Back in the early 1900s, Mr. Greenough, for whom the town and ranch are named, painted his flock of sheep with a large green “O”. A simple mark that was certainly ahead of its time from a corporate branding perspective. Does Oprah know about this? Hence the name of this Montana woodland escape—the green o. A tribute to the founder, rancher, and all-around man about town. Literally.

The relationship between the family-friendly Paws Up and the adults-only green o is decidedly one-sided. Guests of the green o are welcome to use any facilities at Paws Up. But guests of Paws Up are unable to access the restaurant’s tasting menu and common spaces of the green o. This lop-sided relationship adds an air of exclusivity for the 24 oh-so-lucky green o guests.

Finding Gold at the green o

While green is undoubtedly the signature color of the property, I can say without fear of my kids’ ridicule, that I found gold. Well, perhaps some fear. That does sound kind of corny.

I’ll attempt to exhaust the limits of the metaphor. Yellow tamaracks burst brightly from a forest of otherwise green firs, creating a ripple of gold. They shed their short needles so that the paths around the property appear to be paved in gold. A large, gooey golden honeycomb sits atop the bar in the main restaurant ready to be drizzled on my morning granola. Metaphor officially exhausted.

Earning Dinner at the green o

Luxury adventure retreats are popping up around the country at lightning speed. The appeal is clear. Travelers are looking for places that provide interesting combinations of active excursions, indulgence, and unique culinary experiences.

Hotel trends show heightened popularity in places where guests feel they have ‘earned’ that Michelin-worthy meal, multi-course tasting menu, and one-of-a-kind styled lodgings. Or, maybe that’s just me?

‘Earned’ could mean climbing a mountain. Or, taking on the green o’s mile-long Grizzlyman Trail. In our case, earned means outrunning simple-minded wild beasts. It’s a reward to mark a day we pushed beyond our comfort zones.

The green o takes it further by adding on unusual experiences, like an ATV ride to a remote ghost town or fly fishing in the Blackfoot River. A day-long Frontiersman Ride on horseback or participating in an authentic cattle drive. It’s all too easy to see the allure of adventure-inspired trips. Especially ones in remote wilderness locales like Montana.

At the Green O, It’s all about me us you

My husband and I come to the green o to create adventures based on our vacation style. Our trip doesn’t look like anyone else’s. I mean that literally and factually. Since our return, I’ve been stalking the green o and its guest posts on Instagram. Not one reel, story, or little square tile replicates our trip. Yet, they all look equally spectacular.

This is the beauty of the green o—that we can interpret the activities and offerings to reflect our own personal brand of adventure. Like on our first bike ride when Daniel chose to interpret the ‘DO NOT ENTER’ sign differently than me. Needless to say, we decide upon a few other activities with slimmer chances of being trampled to death.

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Choose our own adventure

Montana is a new state for both of us. We’d like to get up close and personal with the natural beauty for which it’s so well known. We opt for a six-mile hike through the ominously named Lubrecht Experimental Forest, which we access from a path behind our Tree Haus. I dismiss the irrational fear of being abducted and experimented on by a mad scientist named Lubrecht.

But trails named Grizzlyman, Hunter’s Point, and Anaconda are surely trying to shake my confidence level, which is medium at best. Dictated in part by past hiking adventures gone awry (Exhibit A: Wyoming) and (Exhibit B: England).

Thankfully mountain lions hadn’t been spotted recently around the green o. We are told that the bears are probably hibernating by now. That’s mildly reassuring, I think.

On another day we take a 12-mile bike ride through everchanging scenic terrain. Over burbling streams, and through grassy pastures with snow-covered mountains in the distance. We head up to a rocky lookout and admire the Blackfoot River below. It’s one of my favorite ways to spend a day.

I get to burn hundreds of calories in order to ‘earn’ the Wagyu smash burger waiting for me at the Social Haus. All the while admiring stellar views.

The Green Haus

Our haus, in the middle of the trees

The green o has four different haus accommodation types: the Round Haus, the Tree Haus, the Light Haus, and the Green Haus. All are within striking distance of the Social Haus—the green o’s main (and only) restaurant, which has a different tasting menu each evening.

The Tree Haus

I have my heart firmly set on the Tree Haus. The idea of sleeping among the stars in the wilderness must have awakened some part of my inner child. (My parents are surely wondering whose inner child I am referring to.) I hated camping as a kid and still do.

Maybe I was just waiting for the right kind of Tree Haus? Sleeping 23 feet in the air and seeing the stars blinking brightly between the tall pine silhouettes is ethereal. Even if it is from the second floor of our glass-enclosed heated Tree Haus.

The Round Haus

And, even if the bedsheets are so insanely cushy and cozy that we buy them the moment we arrive home. And that we can order on-demand wood-fired pizzas to that very same bed. This is my kind of camping.

Views Win at the green o

The design of our Tree Haus is inspired. A small glass entryway pops from the ground like a submarine’s periscope and invites us to shed our boots and coats. A floating spiral staircase snakes upwards toward the first-floor landing.

The drama is worth the climb—360-degree views of pine forests from floor-to-ceiling windows.

I stop to take in the space and first notice the modern wood-burning stove neatly tucked in the corner. There is an oversized chair beside it, and I make a mental note to curl up in it with my new Amor Towles novel as soon as possible.

In the freezer, I discover two homemade ice cream sandwiches just waiting for the midnight munchies to surface.
Pine-filled views trump all, which is likely why the green o gave us so many places to admire them. A hanging outdoor chair sways in the breeze on the wraparound outdoor deck. The bedroom balcony is the ideal spot to spy deer traversing the landscape. Even the view from the bathtub windows maximizes the woodland panorama.

The only other place for guests to mingle indoors at the green o is the Social Haus. That is perfectly fine with me, as the only thing that will get me to leave a fabulous room is a fabulous meal.

Getting Social

I’m not a ‘save the best for last’ type of person. I like the best first. So why am I writing about our culinary experience at the green o last?

The answer is simple but wordy.

If the green o had no hikes, no bikes, and no ATVs. No Tree Hauses, Round Hauses, or Green Hauses. If the woodlands were devoid of mountain lions, deer, and hibernating bears. If there were no golden tamaracks, golden pastures, or golden paths of golden needles. I would still go to the green o—for the food.

The Social Haus

I am a self-appointed foodie and travel for food the way others travel for a Broadway show or a music festival. I expect the food at the green o to be spectacular. Incredibly, I get much more than I expect.

Every meal at the green o is included in the price of the room. Craft cocktails and (most) wines are included as well. The culinary talents of Chef Brandon Cunningham are almost impossible for me to describe. But I will try.

3 dinners x 7 courses = 21 courses

The highlight of each evening, without a doubt, is the inventive 7-course tasting menu prepared by Chef Brandon and his faithful team. Seven unique courses each night for our three nights without a single course overlapping. Factor in that every other guest will also not overlap a course during their stay and you can see why this is a Mensa puzzle I’ll never solve.

The Social Haus has a convivial bar where guests can have dinner while watching the chef and his team create culinary magic. I order the Greenough Gimlet, with local Spotted Bear Gin, yuzu, and rosemary.

Daniel has Sudden Smoke, which requires the bartender to light a piece of wood on fire then place the glass upside down to absorb the smoke. It is just this kind of attention to alcoholic detail that makes the cocktail experience another green o adventure.

A dark green leather banquette semi-circles around a large glass-enclosed fire. Daniel and I sit facing it, as do all the guests, which creates an informal dinner party ambiance. Conversation flows, as do healthy pours of wine.

Seeing is believing, at the green o

The execution of Chef Brandon’s culinary creations is better seen than told. And better eaten than seen. One artfully designed course follows another. Like his version of Chinese take-out, complete with the ubiquitous cardboard box and chopsticks. Or, a modernized ham and cheese sandwich.

Meals are prepared with absolute intention and often with the help of tweezers. No detail is overlooked, whether that be the leanest slice of hamachi, the flourish of a matsutake mushroom, or a flowering spiral of avocado upon sourdough toast.

Each night I swear I couldn’t possibly handle another seven courses. But I do. I only wish I could stay longer. If for no other reason than to see if Chef Brandon ever slips up and serves the same course twice.

Lunches and breakfasts are as inventive and mouth-watering. Fried chicken and waffles with golden raisin chutney and coconut syrup; chamomile yogurt panna cotta with fresh berries, honeycomb, and pistachio; and the famous Wagyu smash burger. With its secret sauce, griddled onions, and pepper jack cheese, Daniel says it is the best burger he’s had. Ever.

Add in service with a Midas touch (notice how I continue to flog the metaphor?) and it’s obvious why the food experience at the green o is another star among stars.

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Your green o

What will your green o experience look like? Will you opt for a spa treatment or a leisurely hike? An ATV ride or a horseback ride? Mountain biking or fly fishing? Perhaps a long hot bath followed by a fire and a good book? The combinations are as high-adrenaline or as low-key as you’d like.

It’s worth mentioning a few other perks included in the room rate, which may seem high—until you have your first tasting menu Then you will realize that you are winning, as every single meal is included and is better than the last. Guests are welcome to dine at the restaurant at Paws Up, which I’m sure is lovely, but don’t. There is no reason to leave the Social Haus. Trust me.

The green o includes transportation to and from the airport in a hybrid Lexus. That same Lexus (or one from the on-site fleet) is at our disposal should we want to go off-property. Lastly, we are given a $500 voucher that we can use towards anything not included in the room rate. We used ours for a special bottle from the reserve wine list and a massage.

Gold abounds at the green o, no matter where you look, and no matter what season. I found gold everywhere, but none more noticeably than in the service, the food, and the bucolic setting. The only thing missing from our trip to the green o was more time.

It’s a sign

On our last afternoon, we drive along the road where we started our first bike ride. Just past the spot where the Sunset Trail may or may not have been. About 50 yards away we see a different sign, this one is a tad more informative: ‘DO NOT ENTER ENCLOSURE. THESE ANIMALS ARE DANGEROUS’.

I don’t gloat. But I want to.

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If you ever want to get in touch, ask a question, or discuss a way to partner, please email me at [email protected].
December 7, 2021
Up for a Challenge? Why the Best Family Resort In Punta Mita is The Four Seasons.

Read on to discover the best family resort in Punta Mita— The Four Seasons. Punta Mita is the sun-soaked, palm tree-dotted peninsula in Mexico. And it’s one of the most luxurious spots in Mexico.

For The Love of Travel

I love traveling to hidden, off-the-beaten-path, inaccessible, far-flung destinations. I love hotels that are boutique in size, blend seamlessly into the environment, and whose entrances are easily passed unnoticed.

The Four Seasons Punta Mita is not one of those places.

Yet, it is as close to resort perfection as one can find. Anyone who has been there can write effusive, enthusiastic, and exuberant reviews; wax lyrical about its well-appointed rooms, and its impeccable grounds, and define the nuances between each of the five on-site restaurants. Anyone can describe this stunning property that hangs magnificently off of a jagged, rugged peninsula.

I started to think, (a dangerous undertaking as my husband likes to chide). There are countless typical luxuries that we have come to expect from world-class resorts. Yet, I wondered if there are new table stakes at play. Is there a new set of expectations, now as we begin to crawl out of our bubbles, and into a decidedly different world of travel?

Are these new luxury amenities tangible, intangible, or both? Does the Four Seasons in Punta Mita deliver? And what role, if any, does Mother Nature play? Let’s tally it up.

Setting the stage at the best family resort in Punta Mita

Punta Mita is a 1500-acre private peninsula in Nayarit, Mexico. The peninsula, surrounded by the mighty Pacific on three sides, is a gated community of perfectly extravagant villas, perfectly pristine beach resorts, and perfectly manicured golf courses. Do you detect a theme? Perfect, read on.

Upon arriving at the richly colored garden entrance of the Four Seasons, we are whisked through the open-air lobby towards the hotel’s money view. It’s an expansive 360-degree panorama of the ocean and grounds. Liliana, our concierge, treats us to the new-ish hospitality trend, the ‘non’ check-in, check-in.

We are invited to sit and relax. A server stood nearby with glasses of bubbly, ruby-red fruit punch, and a carafe of tequila (for those of us keen to start the festive season straight away).

Our bags are swiftly transferred to our rooms. No fussy front desk, no wasted minutes waiting for a room key, and no delays. (The Four Seasons: 1, Mother Nature: 0)

Oceanfront life at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

The Oceanfront Casita was true to its name. It isn’t unusual for a resort to claim an oceanfront room that is actually not quite ‘fronting’ the ocean. Anyone who says a hotel room is just a place to rest their head at night hasn’t been to this room.

Our casita was close enough to the sea that I tasted the salt in the air when I stood on the veranda. All that lay between us and the water’s edge were a few low-lying desert plants and lone cacti.

Floor-to-ceiling doors slid open to the outermost edges of the room—a stage welcoming us to the Pacific. The room itself is simple and modern. Each piece of furniture is arranged to maximize the view. A table filled with housemade chips, guacamole, and yet more tequila sat nearby. If the Four Seasons were trying to get us to spend seven days in our casita, they were doing an excellent job.

A flock of seagulls skimmed the water’s surface in front of me, as if on cue from the front desk. An enormous, perfectly-placed boulder broke the surface of the water in the near distance. Later that evening, we discovered it lit by a spotlight, creating an ethereal shimmer to the otherwise inky, black sea.

Which was here first, I wondered, the rock or the resort? My money was on the rock, whose starring role at the resort was likely discovered by a group of clever architects. (Four Seasons: 1, Mother Nature: 1)

Start your day with a Smize

I’m biased toward Mexico. It is a country whose hospitality has welcomed us countless times over the years. Whether a villa vacation, a swanky beach resort, or a wind sports mecca in a sleepy fishing village, Mexico over-delivers. Where is the Mexican hospitality manual hiding, and why won’t they share it with the rest of the world?

The main restaurant, Dos Catrinas, opened up towards the Pacific Ocean. Rafael greeted me each morning and caught on to my breakfast routine immediately. A creature of habit, I like to sit leisurely with my first cappuccino, sometimes writing, sometimes watching for whales, always observing and overhearing, before I move on to anything food-related.

Overheard in Punta Mita

A man at the next table appeared to have a serendipitous encounter with an old acquaintance. Without a trace of irony, he asked, “So, have you had a good year?”. I cringed. At another table, I heard a toddler ask her dad, “What’s your spirit animal?” What’s mine, I thought? Overhearing is a favorite vacation pastime.

Rafael had an endearing way of smiling with his eyes. In our current mask-wearing world, a ‘smize’, or eye smile, is a thing. Just ask supermodel, Tyra Banks, who coined the verb back in 2009 on her TV series, America’s Top Model. Rafael nailed the smize—Tyra would have been impressed. (The Four Seasons: 2, Mother Nature: 1)

The staff’s graciousness was a thread that ran deep and wide throughout the resort. While one could argue that that kind of hospitality is table stakes at a luxury resort (and I agree, it is) somehow, the Four Seasons took it much further. They made a 170+ room resort feel as small and personal as a boutique hotel.

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Beaching, the sport

The two, wide crescent beaches that flanked the property equally captured my attention. More naturally placed boulders and rocks jutted out from the sea, and foamy white, waves crashed against them with wild abandon.

At the start of sunset, when the tide was low, we walked far out into the tidal pools and admired the views of the coastline from afar.

We are beach people and settled ourselves on loungers under wide, thatched umbrellas each morning. Hours melted away. All meals and drinks were conveniently delivered to us. I looked at my step counter for the day: 26. Yikes.

Less typical beachside surprises came in the form of a pop-up catered birthday party on the sand. Or, the roving foot masseuses that could be booked on demand. A daily ‘treat’ (ice-pop, fruit, iced drink), was offered each afternoon, along with the resort’s ice cream cart that had kids and adults alike lining up.

A sandy taco stand nestled between the two coastal crescents served up trios of made-to-order tacos. Home-made pico de gallo topped the pork carnitas and low-key wooden picnic tables made for a lazy, boozy, lunch.

An Evian spritz, and a white, chilled towel, came by just when the sun was at its peak. And, although I didn’t meet him, the resort had a roaming ‘sunglass doctor’, for those who may have had an icky smudge on their Maui Jims. Over the top? For sure. Yet, all these perks were somehow delivered in an unobtrusive, dare I say, understated way.

Resident Hawks at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

The most clever beach amenity, however, was not on the beach. Two regal resident hawks swiftly flew overhead throughout the day. Originally, I assumed the hawks and their falconer were there as entertainment for the kids.

In fact, they were there to scare away greedy crows, and any other birds that attempted to steal a guest’s guacamole when they were otherwise snoozing, or deep into the latest Kristin Hannah novel. A natural way to eradicate a simple nuisance. Novel, indeed! (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 1)

More family-friendly resort ideas:

Far off the beaten path and surfing on-site—Mukul, in Nicaragua, is the ultimate resort for the family.

Keep Mexican hospitality top of mind at yet another family-friendly spot, Esperanza in Cabo San Lucas.

Insta-Pooling at the best family resort in Punta Mita

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Nuna, the resort’s stunningly designed infinity-edged pool. Nuna could have had its own Instagram account, and perhaps it does. By day, its glassy surface mirrored the tall palms and the clouds above. At sunset, it reflected the prismatic patterns of orange, red, and purple that took over the sky.

The pool was a show-stopper. Even the semicircular shaded awning, for those who prefer less sun, was photo-worthy. Uniquely designed, guests could enjoy both the pool and its views over the ocean, simultaneously.

We lost our younger kids to the lazy river for a few hours each day. I tend to associate a lazy river with an opulent, over-the-top, behemoth of a hotel on an island in the Atlantic. The Four Seasons interpretation was tasteful and nestled deeply enough into the resort that one might miss it if unaware of its presence.

The lazy river, combined with a large game room (ping pong, air hockey, and about a dozen large, flat-screen, PlayStations), made the resort kid-friendly without being kid-centric. The game room was also an ideal way to protect them from the sun’s midday rays for a bit. Win, win.

Wildlife, if you know where to look

Diego, one of the many personable waiters, told me that whales usually passed by the resort between 3-4pm, on their way from Puerto Vallarta. I didn’t Doubt Diego but only hoped the whales were punctual, as I was excited to enjoy the whale procession with my afternoon latte.

Whale watching has always been one of my favorite sports in Mexico. I only wish it burned more calories.

As it turns out, the whales were in good form that week, maybe celebrating the end of 2020 with the same enthusiasm that we were. My binoculars were constantly scanning the sea for the tell-tale ocean spray. A clue that a whale will soon break the surface for air. (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 2)

Later in the evening, dozens of baby sea turtles were released into the Pacific, their tiny flippers pushing through the sand. Shallow waves knocked them off balance for a moment while they once again found their bearings.

It was impossible not to route for them as they blindly struggled to reach the sea. Mother Nature in all her glory. (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 3)

On-site surf at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

The rest of my family prefers sports that actually do burn calories. One of the inherent draws of the Four Seasons Punta Mita was the opportunity to surf directly from the resort’s beach. This is unusual. At many resort-based surfing destinations, one needs to drive to get to the ideal surf spot. Having it on-site was a luxurious convenience.

We first met Grant, from TropicSurf, a few years back during a spring break at Mukul, an Auberge resort, in Nicaragua. Our kids had immediately taken to the breaks with his enthusiasm and encouragement. On this trip, Grant even managed to get me out on a board. No small feat, as many of my friends know, being in the ocean is decidedly not my thing.

Although TropicSurf is not a part of the Four Seasons resort, it is a snap to organize. The combination of having TropicSurf on hand and the natural environment in which to surf give a point to both Mother Nature and the resort. (The Four Seasons: 4, Mother Nature: 4)

Mother Nature, for the win at The Four Seasons

How often does one wake up in the morning to a full moon? For me, once.

7:46am December 30, 2020. A rising full moon cast light across the sea towards my veranda. The rarity of the moment did not escape me, nor did the fact that I could see the lunar seas and highlands of the moon’s surface with my naked eye.

The sea bubbled under the moonlit path that unfurled towards me like a red carpet on Oscar Night. Layers of pale pinks and cornflower blues stretched across the sky like an enormous gender reveal for twins.

I thought about the whales—were they confused? Would they still head up here from Puerto Vallarta today as planned? The sun began to rise quickly, greedily chasing the moon from its territory. I watched with as much intensity as I could manage pre-caffeine. The sky was changing at breakneck speed, and this unique phenomenon, I knew, would soon be over.

8:17am. A fitting goodbye for 2020. I got dressed and headed towards caffeine. (The Four Seasons: 4, Mother Nature: 5)

Nothing is perfect

I am reluctant to use the word ‘perfect’ in travel writing. Perfect has a ceiling. It doesn’t allow room for improvement—and who doesn’t have room to improve? Here, I used “perfect” to question the perception of perfection and to think about my own ideals and needs.

Time, as my Soul Cycle instructor, Tanysha, proclaimed mid-ride yesterday, is one thing we can never get back. There is a time and place for adventure and a time and place for pure luxury, both tangible and intangible.

The Four Seasons Punta Mita may be considered a ‘typical’ luxury beach resort. Yet, it found atypical ways to push the envelope in new travel expectations (with a little help from Mother Nature). Some might even say, perfect.

But who’s keeping score?

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April 17, 2021
Discover Why Esperanza is the Family Escape You Need

The resort we chose for spring break, not surprisingly, needed to be family-friendly. There is a difference, however, between family-friendly and completely geared toward kids. Striking that balance is never easy, many places have good intentions but fail. Esperanza, in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, had been recommended to me over the years, so we went for it.

It managed to combine all the touches that would make my husband and me happy: the gorgeous views, great food, and thoughtful service, as well as all the things our kids would want. When we booked, we had no idea what would happen in the world just a few months later, but we pushed forward and ended up with a (different kind of) trip to remember.

A Day Like Any Other

It’s March 11th. The president has just announced that all US nationals must return from Europe. There is panic overseas as Americans scramble to get home within two days. There is panic at airports and at universities where students study abroad. There is panic everywhere, it seems. I panic, too.

That evening, my husband and I went back and forth about whether we stay home or go away as planned to Mexico. It’s our kid’s spring break, that coveted two-week bridge between winter and spring, cold and hot. We agree—we will go. An hour later, we agree again—we should stay. The next morning, we agree one more time—let’s just go. Rarely are our views so aligned! Yet, it was far from comforting.

We are aware that this might be our last vacation for a while. We grasp that we are on the cusp of something big. We know our family would benefit from time away, together, and outside of the escalating chaos. We realize that if we go, things will look much different when we return.

We organize ourselves. We prepare to turn around upon touchdown, or, to stay indefinitely, and pack accordingly. Six bottles of Theraflu, five canisters of disinfectant wipes, and three hand pumps of Purell. Is that enough? Are we really going? What did we agree upon again?

It’s March 14th. Lift off.

Touch Down

When we landed in Cabo San Lucas, we were keenly aware that this vacation would be unlike any other. A telling sign was that our plane, normally booked solid at this time of year, boarded only 30 passengers. Social distancing, a term swiftly creeping into everyday vernacular, was not an issue.

The days ahead would be inherently more reflective and heavier with the uncertainty of the future. I knew this trip would be inked in my memory, and not for the usual reasons.

Esperanza

Often, I write about the overall feel of a destination, the gestalt—to use a theory that would make my art history professor proud. My brain simplifies and organizes ideas in a way that is more user-friendly, and more interesting to read. For instance, describing the way the bedsheets felt, or what combination of spices were in that delicious tortilla soup. How, and if, the resort organically settled into its surroundings. Details that prove to be big and important in the world of inspirational travel. Details that make for pretty sound bites.

Esperanza, as anyone can see from photos, is a stunning property that sits upon a jagged cliff above the Sea of Cortez. There is much I can say about the beauty, both natural, and man-made, of this Auberge-owned hotel.

I am going to focus more on the feelings that made our time in Mexico worthwhile, to illustrate the emotive piece of the trip. And, I’m going to write about whales.

Rituals

The main restaurant at Esperanza, Cocina del Mar, is an aerie—as easily suited to hawks as humans, perched high above a small beach. On the way to breakfast each morning, the kids raced to the circular landing at its entrance to glimpse the daily sand drawing. Along the way, we all tried to guess what it might be—a crab, sailboat, and shell. Why this part of the day became such a highlight amused me. I think the idea of a happy surprise was needed, no matter how small.

I naturally fell into a daily ritual of my own. First, I ordered a wellness shot of turmeric root, lime juice, pineapple, and ginger. I didn’t actually enjoy its robust taste or its jarring school bus color, but I wistfully imagined its medicinal value could keep a virus at bay.

What’s Newsworthy?

Next, I read the news, a 15-minute self-imposed maximum, as it made my heart race and my skin heat up. Wasn’t I here partly to escape the news cycle—which was inconsistent, filled with misinformation, and designed to terrify?

Lastly, I looked at the sea, training my vision for the tell-tale puffs of air that signaled a whale’s presence. Some mornings, they popped through the surface like champagne corks on New Year’s Eve, and other days, they were more elusive. This morning routine settled me, and the whale spotting became another highlight of my day. It gave me restorative moments of calm. By the second breakfast, the waiters knew my order, where I liked to be seated, and had a pair of binoculars on standby.

During our week at Esperanza, the world outlook became bleaker, the news became direr. I woke up each day, wondering if this was going to be the last, that we would have to pack up and go. I relied upon the whales to ground my spinning thoughts.

Color and light

The color palette of Esperanza mimicked the landscape. Pale blue, inky blue, beige, and foamy white—naturally soothing colors. Rolling waves edged up, and then crashed below, the rocky promontory where I sat, showing off as if they were a slo-mo video capture for the latest iPhone commercial. Who knew how deafening the sound of the sea could be until you had all the time in the world to listen?

The light was so pretty it appeared to stick to the obsidian-textured rocks. Several hundred wet, black crabs moved as one over them, giving the impression that the rocks were fluid, rather than solid. The gestalt theory again, is the principle of ‘common fate’—that our brains will lump together individual things that move in a similar direction as a group, and consider it one stimulus. It’s pretty clear I had too much time alone with my thoughts at this point, isn’t it?

Animal Kingdom

I watched the cast of crabs (yes, that is the technical term, I just googled it) scuttle as a unit, and immediately felt my blood pressure plummet. Why don’t I watch the Discovery Channel more often, I chided myself. It’s cheaper than therapy! Wildlife viewing—an organic cure-all.

A pair of iguanas played peek-a-boo around the desert-like boulders near the pool. I gathered they were the resident reptiles, and for many days spied them searching for whales with me.

Little Kindnesses

It was clear early on that the resort was overstaffed, having prepared for the normal onslaught of families worldwide to fill their swimming pools, belly up to their bars, and keep the tennis pros on their toes. The resort, a mix of haciendas, suites, villas, and casitas, looked to be at about 40% capacity when we arrived. When we departed, I sensed there were only about 40 guests left.

Waiters glided about the palm-thatched and open-air restaurants, never forgetting an extra wedge of lime for a beer or the preference for soy milk over cow. This was made only slightly easier to remember by the unfortunate fact that the staff outnumbered the guests. At Esperanza, however, attentive service was par for the course, served daily with warm, engaging smiles.

I was impressed by the above-and-beyond kindnesses, the silent and unsaid courtesies that were extended to everyone, by everyone, all of the time. It was as if the waiters, pool staff, and groundskeepers all knew that something was changing and that it may be a while before they returned to any sense of normalcy. They were right.

Images

I can’t say we didn’t fully take advantage of the bubble we found ourselves in that week. Our family bonded in a different way than usual. We were very together, a precursor for the weeks of togetherness ahead.

My son and husband went on a few long desert runs, harassing skittish rabbits along the way. The kids rode waves with local surf instructors. I spent hours coloring with fine-tipped sharpies on the balcony—my current obsession, while the kids made Tik Toks—their current obsession. All of us tore through novels, having brought stacks from home.

The Intrinsic Beauty of Esperanza

I relished any moment that got me past recurring doomsday thoughts. The lulling beach hammock, the statuesque iguanas, the pool waiters who wore pins that cheerfully cried, ‘Yes way, rosé!’. The serendipitous moment I photographed a fisherman just as he reeled in his catch and the way he proudly held up his prize. The prismatic sunsets each night belied the dark state of the world. Those six nights stretched into forever.

The intrinsic beauty of Esperanza was seen, and felt, inside and out. The 17 acres of lush, well-kept gardens, and grounds, are complete with a lovely koi pond, and interesting kid-centric activities like bocce and life-sized chess. The intimate spa is an oasis within the oasis. The nightly bonfire on the balcony of the main entry—all contributed to that escape from reality we were seeking.

Whales

On the day that would become our last full day in Mexico, we spent a few hours at sea searching for whales. The boat picked us up from the pier, and we leisurely motored past the intsa-ready Arch of Cabo San Lucas. This natural rock formation, teetering on the brink of collapse, is located at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula. Normally overrun with tourist boats competing for pole position, we nearly had it to ourselves.

Our captain was, not surprisingly, well versed in all things whale and had a keen eye for spotting them, even from incalculable distances. Yet, as prepared as we were to see what we came for, witnessing the slow-motion corkscrew movement of a breaching whale is nothing short of heart-stopping. Even the biggest grumps in our group (ahem, Chase and Ella) were without words, maybe for the first time. The whales’ powerful and muscular bodies were awesome; their tails slapped the water like pancakes being flipped by a short-order cook.

Seconds later, as if the universe was trying to tell me, ‘You’ve seen all there is to see here, don’t push your luck.’ a burst of texts from well-meaning friends alerted us of the recent world developments. ‘The US borders are closing’, they wrote — ‘when are you coming back?’

Our time was up.

Closure

We had managed six nights in Cabo San Lucas, and every one of them was a bonus in my eyes. I sat at breakfast, wellness shot in hand, that last morning. If Esperanza does any one thing to perfection, it is dining, where even the indoor seating feels like outdoor seating. And the views were transporting, regardless of the time of day.

Throughout the week, I noticed the guests that had canceled their trips by their absence on the neatly spaced pool loungers. (Loungers that would have been annoyingly spoken for by 7am each morning.) I noticed the lack of ambient noise and family chatter in the empty seats of the restaurants. It was a poignant, quiet, self-reflecting spring break. Not exactly what we had in mind when we booked all those months ago, but lovely in many ways, nonetheless.

My mind filled in those gaps. Another principle of gestalt—is closure. In design, closure refers to how the brain will automatically fill in any missing pieces of an image to create a whole. What missing pieces will I bring back into my life, and what pieces will I purposely leave out when I get home?

Esperanza will once again fill its pools, bars, and suites. It may be filling up as we speak, as restrictions loosen, and people decide they don’t want to cook, go food shopping, or clean dishes for a few days. The thoughtful, and extremely capable staff, is waiting. So are the whales. I’m hoping that the whales are waiting, too.

Where will you find yourself next? Just Click.

Experience the magical and color-filled Slot Canyons with Amangiri as your base, in Utah.

Stay out west a little longer and head to the Tetons in Jackson.

Need more adventure? Dunton Hot Springs, in Colorado, will complete your western travel trilogy.

June 19, 2020
Is San Miguel the World’s Best City? You decide.

Exploring San Miguel de Allende, Mexico /

Visit San Miguel de Allende between March and April. That‘s when the intensely vivid purple Jacaranda trees take over the already majestic landscape. But even if you miss the blooming Jacarandas, you won’t be disappointed. San Miguel is a city that is entirely built around color. Rich ochres, terra cottas, burnt oranges, and lush persimmon dress the Spanish Colonial architecture. They fill every street and passageway with warmth.

Throughout the day, light bounces off the colorful stucco walls, creating ever-changing hues and textures. As the day turns to dusk, those colors shift even further, creating subtler and richer variances.

Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, San Miguel is one of the prettiest and best-preserved hamlets in the Americas. It’s easy to see how this beautiful town, built into the side of a mountain in central Mexico, has been a haven for artists, writers, and ex-pats for decades. Unfortunately, the secret is officially out, as San Miguel was voted the best city in the world by Travel + Leisure in 2017 and 2018. It dropped a spot in 2020 but bounced back with a vengeance to recover its title in 2021.

Does San Miguel deserve the honor? Let’s find out.

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel

The centerpiece of San Miguel is, without a doubt, the looming neo-gothic church, Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel. Built in the 17th c. with pink and orange facades, spires, and pinnacles, it’s not only the tallest building in San Miguel but the most spectacular. It’s a magical spot from dusk until dawn. Street vendors line the plaza, their heads piled high with straw hats or trailing kids’ balloons.

Folk artists sell their masterpieces. Mariachi bands strike up a tune on a whim. Costumed street performers complete the lively scene. I sit and enjoy the evolving light that plays out over the Gaudi-inspired church. The most iconic piece of architecture in the city, it‘s said that Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia inspired it.

The trees around Plaza El Jardin are tightly manicured, looking as if they were each given a severe bob haircut. The benches that line the plaza are a great respite from the hot sun and to relax during the day.

Rooftop Life

San Miguel is a city that is best seen from two distinct vantage points, street level and from high above. The street level has meandering narrow cobbled alleyways, and I stumble upon an espresso bar cut into the side of a building wall. Ceramic boutiques, art galleries, and free-standing sculptures hide in other alleys. I spy local kids hanging from windows and couples walking hand in hand. Lovely trees abound and add even more color to the illustrious palette.

The other viewpoint is from a perch high above. There are many places in San Miguel in which to achieve this. Our favorite spot by far is Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar at the Rosewood Hotel. A magnificent rooftop in its own right, even if it didn’t boast the best views in the city. But it does, and that’s how we find ourselves lounging for a few hours with cocktails and light tapas as the sun starts its slow descent and lights up the skyline like a Broadway show.

The lucky ones score front-row seats—prime tables with unobstructed views of La Parroquia and its transforming colors. I am awed to think that this happens nearly every night of the year here in San Miguel.

Casa Estana

Thanks to a friend’s generosity, we are invited to stay in his villa just off the main square. Casa Estana is a three-bedroom villa with a spectacular roof deck—the true meaning of a hidden gem.

The unassuming door off the street gives us no inkling of what luxury was to be found inside. We enter an open courtyard with stone fountains. Then we walk through another door into the perfectly appointed home. A modern kitchen, multiple fireplaces, luxury linens, and towels. Colorful flowers adorn the tables on each level.

The true highlight of Casa Estana Is its charming and spacious roof deck. It’s a place to unwind on its plush couches, look down upon the lush trees, or have a drink by the fire pit. Casa Estana has this amazing knack for making us feel like we are in the action and outside of the action simultaneously.

Eating our way through the city

San Miguel has become known as a gastronomic hub in recent years. At one time San Miguel catered to backpackers, but today its appeal is far wider. Restaurants like Moxi and Áperi have attracted a refined and luxury-minded base of travelers to the city.

We eat a few meals at Casa Estana, as it’s a challenge to leave the beauty of the roof deck. One day we venture to Café Muro for lunch. Café Muro is a simple place with wooden chairs and metal tables. Folk art hangs askew on the walls. Located on a dead-end street, it’s easy to miss.

The Mexican food is authentic, and without pretense. I have a bowl of tortilla soup that I‘ll dream about years later. The fresh, crispy tortilla strips are placed at the bottom of the bowl. Our server slowly pours a warm rich broth over it. The soup is then topped off with fresh sour cream and chopped herbs. Sopa Azteca is perfection in a bowl.

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Side trip in San Miguel—Sanctuary Atotonilco

We are told a trip to San Miguel would not be complete without a stop at the Sanctuary Atotonilco. Located about 15 minutes outside of the city, it is an 18th-century church complex and is now a World Heritage Site. An incredible example of Mexican Baroque art and architecture, the murals, inscriptions, and frescoes that adorn every wall and ceiling of the church leave me speechless.

It’s said that the landscape of the town of Atotonilco is reminiscent of Jerusalem, which gives the site an even holier aura. Mesquite trees, desert scrub, and acacia trees are in abundance and we feel transported back in time while walking the grounds.

The exterior of the church is simple and plain, which makes the experience of entering so much more magical. It’s completely unexpected. We spend an hour admiring the architecture and art before leaving for an al fresco lunch near Nirvana, a little oasis in the countryside.

So long, San Miguel

Time passes at a leisurely pace. The beautiful old buildings and churches catch us at every turn, adding to the innate charm of San Miguel. It’s a happy city. A colorful city. And above all, a city that begs us to return.

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Interactive Map: San Miguel

Trip map created using Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Looking for More Mexico Inspiration? Click here for Esperanza, the family-friendly resort in Cabo San Lucas.

April 20, 2020

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