Where to stay in northern Iceland? Deplar Farm is the one /
In Iceland, there are more than 50 different words to describe snow.
In Iceland, the population is so small that there’s an app to make sure you don’t accidentally date your cousin.
In Iceland, they joke, “What do you do if you get lost in an Icelandic forest?” Answer: “Stand up.”
In Iceland, more than half the country believes in elves and trolls.
I am enamored with Iceland, in awe of Deplar Farm, and already wondering when I can go back.
I am tempted not to write this post. To leave Deplar Farm tucked far away in the Troll Peninsula of northern Iceland. Allow it to remain a well-kept secret. Two flights, including a sleepy four-hour layover at a regional airport, and a nearly two-hour road trip, will certainly keep less adventurous souls at bay.
With only 13 rooms, Deplar Farm houses a maximum of 32 guests. There are no other accommodations for miles. So when Deplar Farm is at full capacity, the whole of the Fljót Valley is capped for tourists.
Deplar Farm: At your service
At arrivals in Akureyri, Iceland’s 4th most populated town, we meet Emily, our point person for the next eight days. At Deplar Farm, each family, couple, or group, is assigned a ‘personal experience manager’ for their entire stay. It’s Eleven Experience’s technical term for guide, lifeline, cheerleader, Icelandic guru, and all-around nice person.
There’s nothing that can’t be requested of your experience manager. Whether or not it’s ever been done before is of little concern. “Daniel, do you want to go fat bike riding after the 10am hike and before your 6pm skeet shooting?” “Sure!”. “Do the kids want to head out into the countryside to play a game of laser tag after dinner?” “Without a doubt!”. ‘Jamie, how do you feel about throwing axes?” “Ummmm, is that a joke?” My husband calls Deplar Farm a summer camp for grown-ups.
Sheep in Iceland are allowed, by law, to roam the country. Unfortunately, they devour any newly planted trees. Hence, the joke. I guess Iceland is destined to be barren in favor of satiated, grazing flocks.
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‘Up to eleven’: Eleven Experience raises the bar
Eleven Experience, the company behind Deplar Farm, has flipped the script on what luxury travel looks like today. A finely balanced combination of adventure plus understated elegance. The cross-section of high-end service and thoughtful details in a remote setting.
In Deplar Farm’s case, a converted sheep farm on the Troll Peninsula becomes our home away from home. Any fan of the film, Spinal Tap, will remember the reference to taking the volume up to eleven. Going above and beyond, setting the highest bar, is the Eleven Experience.
Farm Hotel, Boutique retreat, or Icelandic lodge?
Deplar Farm opened in 2016 and is set up, first and foremost, as a gorgeous home. Upon arriving, we pass by the cathedral-arched, glass-bookended dining room, with an oversized communal table. A welcoming spot where we will spend convivial farm-to-table meals meeting people from all corners of the globe.
A wall of artfully designed stuffed Icelandic birds would make any ornithological taxidermist swoon. Other lovely seating nooks are scattered around Deplar Farm to enjoy the views, nap, or read a book while drinking tea or coffee, which are always within arm’s length.
At Deplar Farm, the Views rule
Floor-to-ceiling windows are positioned throughout Deplar Farm so that you never need be without a look out towards the mountains, lake, sheep, or slow-moving fog that dramatically comes and goes each day.
There are multiple geothermal springs and an indoor/outdoor pool, my favorite one having a view of the setting sun (albeit at nearly midnight in the summer) and a cleverly designed swim-up bar.
A small, circular plunge pool is nestled into the grass should one want to shock the body after the warm springs. Our kids take turns seeing who can stay in the 34-degree water the longest. I sit nearby with a gin and tonic.
The Viking Spa at Deplar Farm
The small wooden door built into a grassy knoll outside is hobbit-like. Take care not to miss it. The ‘go green’ mentality is top of mind at Deplar Farm. The ever-green rooftop of the lodge is an example. Guests are given reusable water bottles for their stay rather than plastic. In-room fridges are always stocked with ice-cold replacements.
Deplar Farm’s Lucky 13
Each of the beautifully-appointed farmhouse-style rooms is a homespun treasure. Our room, the Grettir, is named after a famous Viking outlaw. It has a fireplace, personal sauna, stand-alone tub, outdoor veranda, and a mini-loft.
I melt into the oversized, puffy bedding each night from a combination of exhaustion, alcohol, and overeating. Our fridge is filled with beer, wine, sodas, and chilled, reusable, water bottles. A Nespresso machine and a wide variety of herbal teas dot the shelves.
Our kids stay in a bunk room on the lower level of Deplar Farm, adjacent to the communal family room. With a flat-screen TV, Apple TV, X-Box, shuffleboard, and an enormous U-shaped couch, the living room is as inviting as any room in our own home.
They spend lazy afternoon hours rolling around on the furniture as if they live here, I think they wish they did. They then roll right into their bunk room to await tomorrow’s adventures.
Deplar Farm’s Family vibe
The strong family vibe among the staff, experience managers, and guides, who I’m told outnumber the guests by 2:1, is tangible. We often find our favorite bartender, Dan, playing ping pong with our son in the game room.
Food and Wine. More Food, and More Wine.
Ivan, the sommelier/host extraordinaire, greets the dining table each night with a cheeky grin and a story about the food and wine we are about to enjoy. Having Garðar Garðarsson, Iceland’s Chef of the Year, create locally-sourced menus each night is my culinary dream come true. The son of vegetable farmers, he effortlessly creates masterpieces for the vegetarians at the table.
No one leaves the table hungry.
On the non-vegetarian front, Arctic Char fished from the neighboring lake, reindeer tartare with locally-foraged mushrooms, and Wolffish are a few highlights that grace the table.
One evening, a Fred Flintstone-sized leg of lamb, slashed off the bone, machete-style, is presented, en masse, on a large, rustic, wooden board. A Michelin-worthy presentation.
Deplar Farm Life
With over 20 hours of sunlight each day, there is never a rush to wake up early for activities. Breakfast is at the civilized time of 9am. Icelandic yogurt called skyr, as well as granola, freshly made loaves of bread, smoked or cured fish, and fresh fruit, were set up on the sideboard.
The lower floor of Deplar Farm is made with comfort and tranquility in mind. The floor-to-ceiling windows that define the upper floor are here as well. There is a yoga room, meditation room, gym, and massage room. There are also two sensory deprivation Isopod float tanks for those who want to relax in a less conventional way. A sauna, steam room, and indoor/outdoor geothermal pools round out the space.
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Colors of Iceland
The magic of Iceland is palpable. Rich, muted colors cover the vistas—layers of green hues overlapping one another. Icelandic horses, braying sheep, and the occasional house that looks painted into the hills.
The sun set around midnight, although in truth, it never looked fully set. Having natural light for so long each day makes for non-stop adventure followed by non-stop relaxation. I never feel that I am running out of time to do either one well.
Farm, hotel, or disco? Deplar Farm is all of the above.
Dinner is called for 8pm, but we generally don’t make it to the table until 9pm. It’s just too much fun hanging around the classic bar, playing ping pong and foosball. The professional band set-up and the sound system on a loft above the bar are an inspired amenity.
Eight days at Deplar Farm
At Deplar Farm, just about everything is included in the room price: food, drinks, off-property picnics, whale watching, yoga, skeet shooting, biking, hiking, and local village visits, are some highlights. All but a few excursions cost extra.
Having eight days at Deplar Farm gives us the advantage of being able to do almost everything summer on the Troll Peninsula of Northern Iceland had to offer. It gives our experience manager the chance to maximize our time and rearrange our activities as needed.
An adventure (or two) a day at Deplar Farm
There are endless adventures available at Deplar Farm and at nearly every level of fitness. Each excursion is more adrenaline-filled than the last. We spontaneously shout, ‘Best. Day. Ever.’ before we discover it is the Eleven Experience mantra.
White-water kayaking downriver towards Deplar Farm takes us past sheep, and Icelandic horses, and through the Twin Peaks rapids. It’s a snap for my husband and kids, who had earlier in the summer spent nine days rafting in the Grand Canyon. For me, it’s a perfect introduction to the sport.
Deplar Farm’s Ghost Farm
Another day has us canyoneering, a sport that, admittedly, I didn’t know existed until then. I equate canyoneering to hiking upstream through canyons and waterfalls. At times, we need ropes to climb up and around the gushing falls. Emily and her co-guide for the day, Lillia, make sure no man is left behind or floats away with the rapids.
After two invigorating hours of pushing upriver, playing in secret waterfall caves, and generally behaving like children, I start to wonder how we are going to get back to the van.
Cue the Eleven Experience advantage. Our van is waiting for us after the last vigorous waterfall climb. We pile in and are whisked to Ghost Farm, an intimate cabin outpost a few miles from Deplar Farm.
There, a hot shower with fluffy towels awaits us, as well as a stocked bar, munchies, lit candles, and hot lunch on the stove. The table is set, and we feast on creamy vegetable curry, fresh salad, and warm bread. Afterward, our experience manager whips up a stack of homemade waffles with strawberries for dessert.
To the circus
It seems every day is going to be the best day ever, even on days we thought we knew what to expect. A boat ride to Drangey Island to visit the native puffins, for instance, I thought would be fun, but a tourist trap. When we board the Drangey Tour fishing boat, we see no other tourists, not a soul, aside from our tour leader, Helgi.
Helgi and his dad, Viggo, have run this family-owned tour operation for decades, and know the island like the back of their Viking-sized hands. 300,000 puffins: 6 humans. We are outnumbered.
The steep, 600ft climb to the top of misty and mystic Drangey, the aftermath of a 700,000-year-old volcano, is a feat in itself. I struggle to balance my camera and my footing simultaneously.
We learn that a group of puffins is called a circus, and after observing them for four hours, we realize just what a fitting description that is. We also learn that a baby puffin is called a puffling and that when they fly, they look like flying potatoes with their distinctively round bodies. I’m happy to report the chef didn’t serve puffin as another locally-sourced ingredient that evening.
Angling to stay at Deplar Farm
Fishing is a major draw for Deplar Farm, the area being renowned for its freshwater Arctic Char and Atlantic Salmon. There are many who come to Deplar Farm solely for the angling. They leave the property long before breakfast and return well after dinner. We are not those people. However, we think an afternoon of fishing could be a chill way to end our trip.
Again, the day held surprises. After one last visit to the gear shed, we don our orange caps, boots, and waders. Five minutes down the bumpy dirt track we find ourselves at the Lake House. Like Ghost House, it’s owned by Deplar Farm and is dedicated to guest use.
Icelandic farmhouse chic, it could just as easily be photographed for Architectural Digest’s latest issue. Old, iconic yellow spines of National Geographic magazines sit on the windowsills among other vintage fishing objects.
Our experience manager had reserved Lake House for the day so that not only could we fish, but then afterward, cook what we catch and hang out in the geothermal springs. Again, it is stocked with a full bar, more munchies, and an already-prepared multi-course meal to add to our catch.
Goodbye Deplar Farm: Vertu blessaður
I am enamored with Iceland, in awe of Deplar Farm and the Troll Peninsula. I’m already wondering when I can go back. Until then, I will replay the adventures that are still razor-sharp in my mind. Best. Trip. Ever. Thank you, Deplar Farm.
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Your world is shrinking one fantastic vacation at a time
Still the best day ever!!!
Great post! Loved the descriptions and gorgeous photos. The
The scenery, decor, activities, FOOD! Yum. Makes me want to jump on a direct flight to Reykjavik tomo!
Jamie! Love, love this post! We are booked for Deplar for August 2020. Looking forward to the Best. Vacation. Ever.
I enjoyed so much this post. Like you were there few months. You made me wish to visit Iceland. In one croatian novel it’s mentioned 50 words for snow so you reminded me of that. Birds look amazing, the chocolate delicious, wonderful photos. Your other posts looks attractive just from the title. Thanks so much..
Thank you for reading! I have been to Croatia several times and it is truly a beautiful country. If you have the chance, read about some of our Croatian adventures! Cheers!
This looks absolutely incredible! What a beautiful landscape. You took some great photos as well!
Hi Whitney, thank you for the comment! I so appreciate the kind words.
Wow, so beautiful! When my boys get a little older this would be such a fun trip.
It really is a fantastic family adventure! Thanks for your comment!
The hotel has been listed as one of the Ten Best Remote Retreats by the Financial Times, the Forbes Magazine listed it with the World’s Most Remote Luxury Lodges and Travel + Leisure magazine chose the area as the Best Winter Getaway Place. This is truly an iconic place to stay!
Some of the best places to stay are the hardest to get to, I often think. If you haven’t already been, add it to your bucket list! Cheers!
I am in love with these photos!
Thank you, Raquel, for the kind words! Deplar is truly a bucket list place, and Iceland overall is a photo op at every turn.
This place looks incredible. Saving this post for my bucket list. Awesome pictures!
Hi Sara, Thank you for the comments! It is an adventure every day in Iceland! I hope you get there. Cheers!