Tag: mexico

  • The Best Food in Oaxaca—From Market Stalls to Michelin Stars

    The Best Food in Oaxaca—From Market Stalls to Michelin Stars

    Oaxaca is widely considered Mexico’s culinary capital thanks to its deep food traditions, vibrant markets, and complex regional dishes. From its seven varieties of mole and handmade corn tortillas to traditional drinks, and from its thriving restaurant scene that spans street stalls to Michelin-starred kitchens, the best food in Oaxaca reflects centuries of culture, craft, and pride.

    How Oaxaca has eluded me for so long is a mystery. Follow along and discover the culinary treasures of this vibrant city.


    It’s about 7pm. The sun has set, but the glow of a few well-placed street lamps guides us along a narrow, curved back street. The stucco-painted walls reveal the colors of the rainbow, despite near darkness. As we stroll, pint-sized dogs with outsized personalities yip, yelp, and howl from behind the bars of gated houses. 

    We round a corner, and I glance past a scuffed, black metal door plastered with flyers and a satin rainbow flag above it. I continue on.

    “Too bad it’s closed tonight,” my friend says.

    I look around. “What’s closed?” I ask.

    “That restaurant… Adamá,” Amy replies. “It’s supposed to be very good.”

    Adama door

    I turn back towards the battered door. Hanging discreetly beside the flag is a small red plaque. The unmistakable badge of culinary achievement: Michelin 2025.

    I’ve been in Oaxaca for less than two hours and have already stumbled upon one of the city’s epicurean treasures. With 23 Michelin-recognized restaurants, including six Bib Gourmands and two with a star, I wonder if five nights in Oaxaca will be more than my digestive system can bear.

    Challenge accepted. Bring on the stars.

    Chocolates

    Why wah-HAH-kah?

    Oaxaca feels like a city built on color. At sunset, the skies remind me of bottles of colored sand I’d fill on the Jersey boardwalk, with layers of blues, purples, and pinks. Vibrant displays of pottery, embroidered fabrics, ceramics, and wood block prints fill storefront windows. Even the chocolates are prismatic—each morsel wrapped like a shimmery, glittering gift.

    I’ve come to Oaxaca to visit a college friend and her husband. Each year, they choose a new destination to live and work remotely for six weeks. The last place I joined them was Mérida, a city I knew nothing about, but left completely enchanted by. So when Amy extended the invitation to Oaxaca, a destination I could barely pronounce, I didn’t hesitate. 

    Typically, I plan my visit about 2-3 weeks into their stay, a strategic way to tap into their favorite bakeries, coffee shops, boutiques, and restaurants. This time is no different. As she’s done in the past, Amy maps out a five-day tour of Oaxaca that would put Rick Steves to shame.

    For once, I get to be led rather than lead. 

    Wedding at church

    ¿Dónde está Oaxaca?

    Oaxaca, one of Mexico’s 32 states, is located in the southeastern part of the country. Covering more than 36,000 square miles, it has 300 miles of Pacific coastline, archaeological ruins, colonial architecture, mountains, and valleys. 

    Oaxaca City, officially Oaxaca de Juárez, is the state’s largest city and is confusingly referred to as just ‘Oaxaca.’ I learn this nuance quickly—much faster than I overcome other linguistic challenges. Why I say ‘Merci’ instead of ‘Gracias’ every time I’m served a drink is baffling. I don’t even speak French.

    Memelitas

    In Oaxaca, it’s all about the food

    Oaxaca may be known for its tropical climate, colorful buildings, captivating murals, and UNESCO World Heritage Site status, but one could argue these are all overshadowed by its cuisine. Nicknamed the Land of Seven Moles (and I don’t mean tiny subterranean mammals), Oaxaca is defined by seven regions, each with its own interpretation of this rich, complex, spicy sauce. 

    Mole is an acquired taste—one I acquire multiple times in Oaxaca. Like learning to identify the different notes in a red wine, I start to pinpoint characteristics of each style, which are a combination of chili peppers, spices, nuts, seeds, and occasionally chocolate or fruit. 

    A family will spend years perfecting their mole, guarding the recipe, then passing it on to the next generation like a precious heirloom. When we visit the markets, I see pride in grandmothers’ eyes as they offer us tastings. It’s their family’s past, present, and future wrapped up in a single bite.

    Mercado

    Oaxaca Food Tour: Party of Two

    John and Amy take a food tour of the city the week before I arrive. By the time I land in Oaxaca, Amy has narrowed down the tour highlights so that we can sample the city at our own pace. I tell my stomach, “You’ve got this,” and we start walking.

    I start my day with two things: coffee and The New York Times puzzles. No matter where in the world I wake up, these are constants. For any fellow puzzlers, my Wordle streak is 565 days strong. 

    Oaxaca coffee exceeds my expectations, and I enjoy the vibe and grounds at Café El Volador so much that I refuse to go anywhere else. Each morning, an elementary school class plays games on the plaza beside it, which only adds to my adoration of this lovable corner café. Cappuccinos in hand, we head outside and soak up the morning sun.

    Cafe el Volador

    Beyond Tacos and Tortillas—Take a food tour of Oaxaca! Click here.


    Tamales Cande

    Mercados and Memelitas

    Fully caffeinated, we stroll to Mercado Sánchez Pascuas for tamales. Minerva, the tour de force behind Tamales Cande, was taught her grandmother’s tamale recipe at 11 years old. When we arrive, Minerva is already serving a line of patrons at her small stall.

    Amy chooses sweet and savory tamales for us to sample, and at 930am, it’s clear a nap is in my future. I make a mental note to sample, not devour, every dish on the tour.

    Taco Truck in Oaxaca

    Our next stop finds us at a tented taco truck where three generations of women work the crowd like a well-practiced dance. One is minding the comal, a smooth, flat cast-iron griddle used for cooking tortillas. The other two are multitasking the orders, food prep, and payment. 

    We order tacos and memelitas, which are open-face fried corn tortillas topped with various fillings. Tacos del Carmen is legendary in Oaxaca, a street-corner fixture since 1974, with recipes passed down through the generations. I take my plastic plate to a nearby stoop and devour every last bite. So much for sampling.

    Chapulines, grasshoppers

    The Jewels of the Mercado

    Mercado Benito Juárez has existed since 1894, making it one of Oaxaca’s oldest and most famous markets. Here, locals rub elbows with tourists, buying everything from baked goods and regional sweets to flowers, footwear, and seafood. It’s a feast for the senses, and we walk the aisles, each named in honor of the state’s regions.

    As we wander, I notice woven baskets piled high with insects. I had already tried chapulines (grasshoppers) the night before, as Amy and John were keen to test my taste buds’ limits on arrival.

    Chapulines are a common snack, the unlikely jewels of the mercado, and are often found on menus even in the fanciest restaurants. Other edible insects include chicatanas, flying ants (don’t fret, they remove their legs, wings, and heads before cooking them), escamoles (ant larvae), and chincuiles (red worms).

    These no-fat, protein-rich bites can be boiled, roasted, toasted, fried, seasoned, or served au naturel. And while I’d ideally like to incorporate 85 grams of protein per day into my diet, boiled bugs are a hard pass.

    Street festivities

    Mexican Wines, For the Win

    Nothing encourages day drinking more than a vacation in Mexico. The combination of warm weather, bustling streets and plazas, and the daylong festive buzz means one is never more than six feet away from a place to imbibe.

    While ambling around the Zócalo (Oaxaca’s main square), we sit at an outdoor table for a drink. Nursing my ice-cold Corona, I think there may be no better place to absorb the city’s vibe than from this very spot.

    Next, Amy and John lead us to Cuarto de Vino, a nearby bar that serves exclusively Mexican wines. Cuarto’s focus is on small producers and natural wines from Baja and other emerging regions. We sit around the central bar and order a flight of whites. And just like that, our food tour has turned into a bar crawl. 

    Dinner

    The Best of Oaxaca: A Food Lover’s Guide

    There are boundless dining options in Oaxaca, from market stalls to Michelin-starred restaurants. Each rung of the culinary ladder offers plenty of options for hungry tourists. What follows is my curated guide to Oaxaca’s best food. Think of it as your one-stop shop for mapping out the city’s food highlights.

    Dinner on patio
    Criollo Restaurant

    Best Restaurants in Oaxaca
    (including Michelin Stars & Bib Gourmands)

    Criollo: Helmed by Chef Enrique Olvera of Pujol and Cosme fame, Criollo, one of the city’s chicest dining rooms, is softly lit and deeply atmospheric. On the way to their tables, guests pass tortillas being pressed and cooked on a comal, filling the space with the scent of warm corn. The experience feels soothing and communal—like dinner with family—while a seasonal seven-course tasting menu highlights the depth of Oaxacan cuisine inside a UNESCO Heritage house.

    Las Quince Letras: Since 1992, Celia Florián and Fidel Méndez have been seducing diners with their roasted chilies and Creole ingredients. Traditional Oaxacan dishes, including their family’s black mole, are served on a tree-canopied, shaded terrace. (Bib Gourmand)

    Ancestral Cocina Tradicional: This simple, beautifully designed, open-air restaurant is tucked away in the residential neighborhood of Xochimilco. Inspired by native ingredients, Ancestral is an off-the-grid spot for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a mezcal Negroni at the bar. 

    Labo Fermento
    Labo Fermento

    Labo Fermento: After perusing the on-site lab and bodega, get a rooftop table at this low-lit Asia-meets-Latin America hotspot, where fermentation is the culinary theme. Chef-owner Joseph Gilbert and his team conjure ethereal dishes such as fermented tomatillo, huitlacoche kimchi, and my fave: dumplings with quesillo and queso ahumado glazed in a chili oil. Labo is a refreshing change from traditional Mexican fare. (Bib Gourmand)

    Levadura de Olla Restaurante: Celebrating the culinary roots of the Sierra Sur region, Levadura de Olla serves atypical ceremonial dishes inspired by the region, including barbacollita tamal (cracked corn, chicken, pork, chilies, and spices), squash blossoms, mole negro, and native Oaxacan tomatoes. (1-Star)

    Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante: Alejandro Ruiz pens a love letter to Oaxacan cuisine, with sensational dishes like yellowfin tuna carpaccio, crispy duck tacos, and oregano-scented rabbit. Set within an 18th-century townhouse, guests will fall in love with much more than the food at Casa Oaxaca.

    Selva Cocktail Bar
    Selva

    Best Bars in Oaxaca

    Cuarto de Vino: A sophisticated, trendy, and convivial wine bar serving an array of Mexican varietals with tapas that effortlessly complement the wines’ flavors.

    Tasca El Olivo: A buzzy gastrobar with live music and casual rooftop seating. At El Olivo, food is a family affair, serving tapas, paella, pinchos, and pastas.

    Selva cocktail
    Maracuyá and Pollen Cocktail at Selva

    Selva Cocktail Bar: If Selva’s mission is to distill the essence of Oaxaca, it overachieves. Named one of the World’s 50 Best Bars by San Pellegrino, Selva takes the art of the cocktail to new levels. Get there before sunset to score one of the two balcony tables overlooking Oaxaca’s magnificent cathedral. 

    La Popular: Cozy, authentic, and, as the name boasts, incredibly popular. Serving tacos and tortas, as well as spicy soups and salsas, it’s filled with locals enjoying a night out, which is always a good sign.

    Pastries
    Pan Con Madre

    Best Cafés and Bakeries in Oaxaca

    Café El Volador: An intimate, small, and local café, serving everything from rich espressos and luscious hot chocolate to gooey chocolate brownies and guava cheesecake.

    Pan con Madre: At this local bakery, good luck choosing just one flaky, buttery pastry. Pair whatever you choose with a silky cappuccino and relax in the courtyard before starting your day.

    Boulenc Bakery: With flour sourced from a mill in nearby Nochixtlan, this open-air and hard-to-find local bakery perfects artisan sourdough bread.

    Mercado spices

    Best Street Food and Markets in Oaxaca

    Barbacoa El Cabrito (at Mercado 20 Noviembre): Settle into a counter seat and feast on the best goat tacos in town, French-dip-style, with a side of savory consomme.

    Tamales Cande (at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas): Known for having some of the top tamales in Oaxaca, don’t miss Minerva’s Tamale Negro, with juicy chicken and black mole.

    Super Jugos Angelita (at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas): Looking to quench your thirst after a hot tamale? Turn around. Choose from beet, kiwi, carrot, watermelon, guava, or a combo of any and all of the above at this little juice bar, which sits directly opposite Tamales Cande.

    Tacos Del Carmen: Chorizo tacos and memelita con quesillo (fried tortillas with Oaxacan string cheese) are just a few highlights at this lively tented food truck located at the corner of Jesús Carranza and C. de Manuel García Vigil. Cash only.


    Want to take a cooking class in Oaxaca? Just Click.


    appetizers at Casa Silencio

    Get Local—What to Eat in Oaxaca

    Oaxaca is widely considered Mexico’s culinary capital, and the best way to experience it is dish by dish. From smoky moles and crisp tlayudas to sweet Oaxacan hot chocolate, the city’s traditional foods reflect centuries of indigenous and regional influence. If you’re wondering what to eat in Oaxaca, start with these classic dishes.

    Empanada: Crispy corn turnover with savory fillings

    Tlayudas: Giant toasted tortilla with beans, cheese, and meat

    Pozole: Hominy stew with pork and chile

    Sopa de Mariscos: Hearty seafood soup

    Tamales: Steamed corn masa parcels with savory fillings

    Carne Asada: Simply grilled beef, smoky and flavorful

    Memelas: Thick corn masa topped with beans and salsa

    Quesillo: Mild, creamy, and stringy Oaxacan cheese

    Tejate: A cool and frothy traditional cacao and maize drink

    Barbacoa: Slow-cooked meat with a rich and savory broth

    Tacos al Pastor: Spit-roasted pork tacos with pineapple

    Estofado: Sweet-spiced chicken stew with fruit notes

    Enchiladas Coloradito: Tortillas in mild red mole sauce

    Chapulines: Toasted grasshoppers seasoned with chile and lime

    Tacos Dorados: Crispy rolled tacos stuffed and fried

    Chile Relleno: Stuffed chile pepper, battered and fried

    Enchiladas Suizas and Enchiladas Verdes: Creamy or tangy green-sauce enchiladas

    Torta: Mexican sandwich layered with meats and other fillings

    Hot Chocolate with Bread: Spiced Oaxacan cacao with sweet bread

    Casa Silencio Distillery
    Subterranean distillery at Casa Silencio

    In Oaxaca, it’s (also) all about the Mezcal

    Yes, the food in Oaxaca is worth writing home about. But let’s not ignore the humble agave, Oaxaca’s most celebrated plant. I have a complicated relationship with tequila, dating back to an unfortunate incident in high school. Fortunately, it’s only after I’ve booked my flight that I discover Oaxaca is the cultural heartland of mezcal, tequila’s more complex cousin.

    Amy tells me to relax: “Drinking mezcal isn’t a requirement for visiting, but…” she continues, “I’ve lined up a mezcal tasting for us on Sunday.” My stomach lurches back to the 1980s. Can I travel to the birthplace of mezcal and not give it a chance? 


    Try a Mezcal Tasting in Oaxaca. Click here!


    Casa Silencio Pool

    Mezcal Tasting at Casa Silencio

    The ancient towns of Mitla and Matatlan are the epicenters of mezcal production in Oaxaca. Generations of mezcaleros still use traditional, small-batch methods, roasting agave in underground pits, crushing it with stones, and distilling in clay or copper. 

    Casa Silencio Bar

    We are spending the night at Casa Silencio, a remote boutique hotel just over an hour from Oaxaca City. It’s a working distillery as well as a fascinating example of brutalist architecture set among hectares of agaves. With only six rooms, each named for a natural element, and a destination-worthy restaurant, it’s easy to forgive Amy for the mezcal tour.

    The tour takes us over and underground, led by a young, knowledgeable guide who explains the process of making mezcal and its history. After the tour, it’s time for the moment I’ve been dreading. The tasting is set up in the library. Four glasses of mezcal and four small bites from the chef. Our guide encourages us to identify the flavors as we taste. 

    Mezcal Tasting

    I sip mezcal #1 and announce that I taste hot pepper and spice. Our guide sips and says he detects guava, sliced apple, and grass. Grrrr. With mezcal #2, I try the fruit route. “Black cherry.” I declare. Our guide smiles and says, “cinnamon.” Discouraged, I wonder if black cherries even grow in Mexico? By mezcal #3, my taste buds are numb. Mezcal #4, I have no memory of.

    Despite my tasting failings, the tour is a highlight. I may never be a mezcal aficionado, but I can say with near certainty that I no longer fear it.

    Zocalo at dusk

    Closing Time

    It’s about 7am. The sun is rising, and I’m in a taxi starting my long journey home. From the window, I pass purple jacarandas, golden trumpet trees, and soft pink ceiba, all in full bloom. The streets are eerily hushed, which is fine with me. My eyes are puffy, and I’m half asleep.

    How could it have taken me until now to discover this humble food mecca in Mexico? Has Oaxaca eluded food lovers worldwide—or just me? That’s the thing about travel, no matter how much we think we’ve seen and experienced, there’s always something more to find. Whether that be a roasted insect, a chocolatey mole, or a leafy succulent that brings me back to 1984.

    I pat my stomach, thanking it for allowing me to be so experimental. To try dishes, flavors, and ingredients that have been part of this region’s culinary love language for centuries, but are now mine to savor for the first time.

    I wonder how many stars Oaxaca will earn by the time I next visit? I can’t wait to return and find out.


    Where to Stay in Oaxaca: My Shortlist

    I stayed with friends, but if I had to choose a hotel in Oaxaca, these would be my top picks. Click for details:

    Hotel Escondido Oaxaca

    Casa Arrona Oaxaca

    Pug Seal

    Hotel Sin Nombre

    Otro Oaxaca


    Planning a trip to Oaxaca? Let me do your research for you. I now offer one-on-one travel coaching.
    Click here to learn more and sign up for a complimentary Discovery Call.


  • 12 Hours In Mérida: Everything You Need To Know

    12 Hours In Mérida: Everything You Need To Know

    Mérida has captured the attention of intrepid travelers seeking a combination of history, art, architecture, music, culinary adventures, shopping, and good old-fashioned fun. Located in the northwest corner of the Yucatán Peninsula, Mérida is quickly climbing the hot lists with its boutiques, boutique hotels, rooftop bars, and street-side taco stands. 

    Read all about Mérida, the ultimate way to spend 12 hours in Mexico’s hottest city, and a few quick hit FAQs to get you going.


    church

    My whirlwind trip to Mérida is hardly enough time to scratch the surface of the Yucatán State’s culturally rich capital. I had only three days to explore. Three days to eat, drink, shop, and soak up Mérida’s unique vibe.

    But, if I had to pare the best of Mérida down to one day, this is what I’d do.

    12 Hours in Mérida

    I’ve been invited to stay at a friend’s Airbnb in Mérida. Amy and her husband live there for a month, enjoying the new work-from-anywhere culture. Amy’s detailed research provides me with excellent local intel; like Mérida’s best shopping, Mérida’s best restaurants, and Mérida’s best bars. 

    The only downside (and I use downside loosely here) is that I can’t stay in one of Mérida’s boutique hotels. Ever the nosy blogger, I peek into a few anyway—for research! I decided that if I were to stay in a Mérida hotel, hands down, I’d choose Coqui Coqui.

    stairway

    Coqui Coqui has just one room. One fabulous room! So, if Mérida is on your Mérida wish list, book the room first and wrap your itinerary tightly around it. Part perfumery, part boutique hotel, all Belle Epoque boudoir-chic, Coqui Coqui dazzles with its marble-clad bathroom and his and her (her and her, him and him) side-by-side claw-footed tubs. The tubs alone are reason enough for me to plan a trip to Mérida, but the highly-curated boutique and the building are worth visiting even if the room isn’t available.

    But first, coffee

    I don’t know about you, but my day isn’t a day without caffeine. I wish I weren’t a coffee snob, but I’ve been on this planet long enough to know one thing—I need very good coffee. Thankfully, Mérida accommodates. 

    croissants at Soco bakery merida

    9am, Soco Bakery

    A nondescript stone facade and a rickety wooden bench are all that welcome patrons to Soco, a bakery on a colorful Merida backstreet. It would be easy to pass by and never know the delectable treasures that lie inside. That is if it weren’t for one thing—the buttery scent of just-baked croissants wafting from the door.

    Soco is a social hub. It’s immediately clear their clientele is fiercely loyal. I can see why. The barista creates specialty coffees like chai lattes, cold brews, horchatas, and kombucha. The baked goods are beyond explanation. Aside from a variety of fresh loaves of bread, croissants, and pain au chocolate, Soco has melt-in-your-mouth options like babka, Basque cheesecake, and mango lemon cruffins (not a typo, think croissant/muffin)

    I grab a flat white and a bag of pastries. Fully fueled, I’m ready to take on Mérida.

    church

    10am, Plaza Grande

    Plaza Grande is the beating heart of Mérida—a garden-filled square that’s an ideal place to begin exploring. Technically, the tree-lined Plaza Grande is a circle rather than a square. Its eight pedestrian walkways radiate from its center. I amble over to the unmissable, larger-than-life, rainbow-colored Mérida letters. With the Mexican flag waving in the background, it’s a natural photo op and an official welcome to this vibrant city. 

    church with rainbow in Merida plaza grande

    11am, San Ildefonso Cathedral

    As if this colorful welcome isn’t enough reason to love Plaza Grande, it’s also home to the Cathedral of Mérida. Also known as San Ildefonso, the 16-century cathedral looms over the square’s east side, I mean circle. Constructed from Mayan ruins, it’s an imposing backdrop to the lively promenades and historic buildings.

    Street vendors set up their stalls, tourists wander, and locals rush past on their way to work. There’s a buzz in the air. Mérida is waking up! 

    Before I know it, it’s time for lunch. Am I hungry? I am! My flaky almond croissant is a distant high-calorie memory. Amy, my favorite Mérida-know-it-all, recommends ceviche from El Marlín Azul. Never one to pass on local insight, I turn right on Calle 62 and continue to rebuild my appetite.

    Blue door

    12pm, El Marlín Azul

    Unfortunately, El Marlín Azul is only four minutes from Plaza Grande, which doesn’t bode well for my step counter. With humble beginnings as a food truck in the industrial zone, El Marlín Azul is now considered one of the best places to eat in the city. Another unassuming storefront leads me to think that the best places to eat in Mérida compete to look the shabbiest. 

    A handwritten menu lists the day’s specials. I don’t speak Spanish, but I know enough words to order my favorites: camarone, pulpo, and pescado ceviche. Other delights include tuna tostadas, shrimp brochette, and fajitas. Trust me when I say no one leaves El Marlín Azul hungry. No wonder dinners don’t begin until at least 9pm. I swear I’ll never eat again. But I don’t swear I’ll never drink again. With so many local watering holes and swanky rooftop bars, a pre-dinner cocktail progressive is in my future.

    Once again, full and happy, it’s time to shop. I continue down Calle 62 towards Caracol Púrapura, stopping at boutiques along the way.

    interior

    130pm, Caracol Púrapura

    Caracol Púrapura (Purple Snail) is a series of galleries that feels more like a museum than a shopping area. Handmade Talavera ceramic jewelry, Mexican folk art, and intricately embroidered clothing are just a few of the treasures to be unearthed from this inner courtyard at the intersection of Calles 60 and 53. The handicrafts found at Caracol Púrapura preserve Mexico’s traditions while supporting local artists.

    I head back towards Plaza Grande en route to another Mérida shop that champions Mexican artisans in a completely different yet equally unique setting.

    Taller Maya in merida

    230pm, Taller Maya

    It’s deceiving to refer to Taller Maya as just a home goods store. It has goals beyond traditional commercial endeavors. Taller Maya is a part of the World Fair Trade Organization, which aims to keep Mayan culture alive through relationships with hundreds of artisans in 40 communities across the Yucatán Peninsula. 

    Marble pedestal bowls, wooden furniture, luminous lamps, and hand-woven hammocks only begin to describe the wares offered at this highly curated Mérida boutique. Taller Maya is open and airy—a study in neutrals designed to feel like an uber-modern Mayan living room. I briefly wonder about squatter’s rights in Mexico.

    I always think the best way to get to know a new city is through café culture. It’s one of my least active city activities. Depending on the time of day, I sit with a (coffee, a glass of wine, a Bloody Mary, etc) to watch city life unfold. After all this walking and shopping, I’m ready to imbibe. 

    4pm, El Lucero

    Amy and I stop for a pre-dinner taco and beer at El Lucero. It’s here that I fall in love with panuchos. (I didn’t know what a panucho was either.) Panuchos are a specialty food of the Yucatán—refried tortillas stuffed with refried black beans and topped with a combo of pulled chicken, chopped cabbage, tomato, avocado, pickled red onions, and jalapeno pepper. Oh panucho, you had me at ‘refried’. While beer is not my go-to drink, it’s Mexico, and Corona pairs perfectly with my panucho.

    petanca

    6pm, Patio Petanca

    The next stop on our pre-dinner progressive food tour is Patio Petanca. A graffiti-covered metal door opens up to an outdoor courtyard space with two boule courts and piles of games to keep one’s mind sharp throughout happy hour.

    In Merida, boules is known as petanque, hence the name Patio Petanca. The petanque court takes up nearly all of Patio Petanca’s modest space. We opt for the less active game of giant Jenga and enjoy what I can safely say is the world’s best taco.

    night time in merida

    730pm, Terraza Picheta

    A mini rainstorm has us shelter in place for another beer and the world’s best taco before we head back toward the center of Mérida. Just off the north side of the square circle is Terraza Picheta, a rooftop bar and restaurant known for its sunset views. The cathedral in the east dominates the panoramic views. Bravo, Terraza Picheta, you win the Mérida location lottery.

    Finally, we are off to dinner. Am I hungry? I’m not sure. But, I’m happy for the 15-minute stroll to Micaela Mar & Lena. It’s an opportunity to see the streets of Mérida come alive at night and burn a few calories ahead of my next meal.

    michaela

    930pm, Micaela Mar & Lena

    Local Mayan, Caribbean, Spanish, North African, and Middle Eastern cultures influence yucatán cuisine. It’s no wonder food is the center of Mérida’s universe. Our dinner at Micaela Mar & Lena proves that simple, unfussy food trumps all.

    Micaela is set in a historic home with ambient lighting, a bright color palette, and a convivial buzz. Mar & Lena translates to sea and grill, which means that although seafood-centric, there are no wrong choices on the menu.

    Dinner starts late and ends very late. I’ve spent all day eating, drinking, sightseeing, and shopping in Mérida. I’m shattered, but happily so.

    Adios, Mérida

    Amy and I wander back to her Airbnb, buzzing from the wine, satiated from heaving plates of gorditas, uchepos, and guacamole. The temperatures have cooled off, and the streets are quieter the further we get from the city’s heart. I hear a woman singing somewhere in the distance. Her soprano notes cut through the air and carry up into the night sky. In a city chock full of energy and vitality, it’s a theatrical ending to my adventure. Adios, Mérida.


    Discover The Best of Mérida’s with my full-color 10-page e-guide. Download it here!

    Merida Guide

    Looking for more hidden gems and unique experiences in Mérida?

    • Explore four off-the-beaten-path cenotes

    • Savor authentic Yucatan cuisine on a walking food tour

    • Explore the Celestún biosphere on a guided boat ride

    • For Foodies Only: A private guided food tour of Mérida


    Mérida: FAQs

    Where is Mérida? On Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, Mérida sits 35 km from the Gulf. Fly straight into Manuel Crescencio Rejón International Airport or land in Cancún International Airport and drive three scenic hours west.

    Best time to visit? November–March. Warm days, cool nights, and zero humidity drama. Summer’s hot, rainy season’s short-lived.

    Why go? Mérida is history wrapped in color—Mayan roots, colonial charm, and slow, sun-drenched afternoons. Stroll Paseo de Montejo, swim in cenotes, listen to music in the plazas. It whispers, not shouts.

    Is it pricey? Nope. Boutique stays, tacos, and mezcal nights are surprisingly affordable. Even splurges don’t sting.

  • 5 Books About Travel (That Will Inspire Travel)

    5 Books About Travel (That Will Inspire Travel)

    A book about travel has power. A book about travel can take us to Botswana, Bolivia, or Bhutan. It’s literary escapism—an easily accessed portal to another time and place. But most of all, a book about travel, when done well, inspires travel.

    (Please note a few affiliate links below. I may receive a small referral fee should a product be bought through my site but rest assured, I only highlight products I own and use.)


    Nancy Drew Book

    My love of books is old and runs deep. I have vivid memories of reading Nancy Drew, circa 1978, by a sliver of light seeping into my bedroom from the hallway. I’d lay on my green shag carpet by that light and read voraciously—always fearful my mom might appear and send me back to bed. 

    My taste in books has varied over the years. Thrillers and mysteries monopolize my 20s. Chick-lit and romance novels reign over my 30s. Historical and women’s fiction dominated my 40s. These days, I read to escape—to travel the world through ink on paper.

    Travel Inertia

    Inertia is defined as a tendency to do nothing or to remain unchanged. After a few years of watching mind-numbing TV (did anyone else finish Netflix?) and dodging calls from Spam Risk, even I had a case of travel inertia. I overcame it by planning a few trips, to places like Maine, the Catskills, and Corsica. 

    But travel isn’t what it used to be. Flights are increasingly delayed or canceled. Luggage is lost. Five-star service is anything but. The luster of travel is dismally dulled by current conditions.

    I wonder how best to reignite the travel spark. Perhaps I’ll go back to the basics. Books, and especially books about travel, have always transported me. They’ve fueled my wanderlust and given me the means to break away from everyday life. Even if momentarily.

    My treasured tomes, don’t fail me now.

    Coach bag

    Five Books about Travel (That Will Inspire Travel)

    Being a graphic designer for a large part of my adult life gave me a deep appreciation for Garamond, Baskerville, and Times Roman. The legends of literary fonts. I used to kern ligatures with a surgeon’s precision. I’d swoon over book jackets at Barnes and Noble, the ones with an elegant marriage of typography and imagery. My husband would joke I judged books by their covers. He was right.

    There are many books about travel that have encouraged me to pack my bags and get out of town. But these five in particular have been the most influential. Whether because they take me to a part of the world I know little about or a part of the world I’d like to revisit. 

    So, grab a Kindle. Or, if old-school like me, head to a local bookstore or library. (My DC go-to is Politics & Prose). Check out my favorite books about travel. I hope they encourage you to escape reality, one way or another. 


    What’s on my travel wish list? Click here: Get my Wish List Destination Guide FREE.


    A book about travel / Morocco

    Caliph's House book

    The Caliph’s House: A Year in Casablanca, By Tahir Shah

    What’s the gist?

    English travel writer, Tahir Shah, takes a gamble to fulfill a childhood dream by moving his family from London to Casablanca. Their new home is Dar Khalifa, the Caliph’s House. It’s an unmitigated money pit located on the edge of a shantytown. 

    In his unputdownable memoir, Shah attempts the arduous task of rebuilding the Caliph’s House while simultaneously building a life in a foreign country. As he learns all too quickly, nothing in Morocco is simple, straightforward, or goes according to plan.

    For instance, renovations come to a screeching halt once Shah learns his house is filled with jinns (invisible spirits). The rituals used to rid the house of these spirits are just one flawlessly written and animated element of Shah’s outrageous black comedy. A tale of perseverance and grit that also portrays a distinct and evocative sense of place.

    Why this book about travel inspires

    On the advice of a friend, I read The Caliph’s House before our trip to Morocco. Not only did it illustrate the colors, sights, sounds, and even tastes of the country, but it also brought modern-day Morocco to life with self-deprecating and utterly candid humor. Thank you, James.

    Power Quote: “I found myself trapped in an awkward position. … I had a gangster for a neighbor, a house marooned in a shantytown with no title deeds and the weather was getting bad. And I was now being told that I should abandon the house because an invisible spirit was angry with us living there.”

    The Caliph’s House is compelling in ways well beyond jinns and gangsters. Shah’s characters, from gardeners to government officials, are multi-faceted and vibrant from page one. His writing pulls readers into a well-woven Moroccan tapestry of myths and traditions—whether describing a crooked street or a crooked carpenter. Read The Caliph’s House, or redeem some well-earned miles and go live it. Either way, Morocco will not disappoint.

    Shop It:

    The Caliph’s House


    A book about travel / Italy

    Beautiful Ruins Book

    Beautiful Ruins, By Jess Walter

    What’s the gist? 

    From the backlots of Hollywood to the rocky coast of Italy, Beautiful Ruins is a social satire of an almost-love affair spanning decades and continents. The book has been said to portray the real-life love affair between Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton after filming Cleopatra, in 1963.

    Beautiful Ruins opens with Hollywood starlet Dee Moray arriving at a quiet Italian coastal village by boat in the early 1960s. She claims to be dying of cancer. Pasquale, a young and starstruck hotel owner, falls in love. So begins a story of tortured love, masked identities, and failure. 

    Why this book about travel inspires

    Artfully written with multiple and parallel storylines, Jess Walter’s descriptions of the Italian Riviera and California are equally captivating. The pristine beaches and brightly-colored hilltop homes of the Cinque Terre come to life alongside his theatrical characters.

    Power Quote: “Porto Vergogna was a tight cluster of a dozen old whitewashed houses, an abandoned chapel, … all huddled like a herd of sleeping goats in a crease in the sheer cliffs. Behind the village, the rocks rose six hundred feet to a wall of black, striated mountains. Below it, the sea settled in a rocky, shrimp-curled cove…”

    Walter’s book is filled with brilliant depictions of romantic coastal hotels and sun-baked yachts. These movie-like scenes and scenery may inspire a journey to this ever-glamorous part of the world. With a sharp sardonic edge and a dramatic plot that builds in intensity, Walter’s novel is escapist fiction at its best.

    Shop It:

    Beautiful Ruins


    A book about travel / The Arctic Circle

    Memoirs of Stockholm Sven Book

    The Memoirs of Stockholm Sven, By Nathaniel Ian Miller

    What’s the gist?

    This extraordinary account of a young Swede who flees Stockholm to seek solitude in the Arctic Circle after a tragic accident leaves him disfigured. 

    Completely original in voice, with endearing, misfit characters, The Memoirs of Stockholm Sven somehow manages to describe a stark, colorless landscape in vivid color. The book weaves a tender web of human suffering and connection while illuminating the perils of living in an isolated and nearly inaccessible place.

    Why this book about travel inspires

    My friend Gretchen recommended Miller’s book before our trip to Finnish Lapland. What better way to be immersed in the vastness of the polar regions than to read a novel set in the Arctic Circle?

    From Stockholm to Svalbard, Miller’s narrative evokes the breathtaking arctic polar tundra with pitch-perfect prose. While living in remote Svalbard, Sven, despite his best efforts not to, befriends a troupe of compelling characters. A Finnish fur trapper, a Scottish geologist, a polar bear, and a devoted canine each play fundamental roles in Sven’s epic adventure. 

    Power Quote: “Tapio sat himself on a large piece of driftwood, so I did the same. A gentle swell rocked the beach iceberg bits against each other. The sun was beginning its hasty swoop to the horizon, and light passed through the ice in unruly refractions. The blue was almost more than I could take.”

    I read about Sven’s endeavors at night by a warm fire with a cup of herbal tea. I try to anticipate the 22 hours of darkness that await us each day in Finland. Miller’s descriptions of the Arctic are so convincing, that I get chilly while reading. Well done, Mr. Miller. I’m patiently waiting for your next book with a heap of woolly blankets.

    Shop It:

    The Memoirs of Stockholm Sven


    What’s on my travel wish list? Click here: Get my Wish List Destination Guide FREE.


    A book about travel / The Amazon

    State of Wonder book

    State of Wonder, by Ann Patchett

    What’s the gist?

    Patchett’s novel, State of Wonder, is set deep in the South American Amazon. Dr. Marina Singh, a pharmacologist, finds herself traveling to Brazil to investigate the strange disappearance of a colleague.

    There, Dr. Singh travels downriver by pontoon, passing tribes that have yet to lay eyes on white people. Tribes that don’t speak a traditional language, but merely use sounds. From murder and mystique to friendship and feminism, this rollercoaster of a novel takes twists and turns as intricate and death-defying as the Amazonian jungle itself.

    Why this book about travel inspires

    At once a story of a personal pilgrimage as well as a page-turning thriller, Patchett is an artist with words. Her canvas is the verdant rainforests of Brazil. State of Wonder conjures up the raw and thrilling emotions that go along with traveling to far-flung locations and being outside of our comfort zone. Her prose ignites wanderlust in the purest sense of the word. 

    Whether describing a microscopic plant cell or a writhing anaconda, her words dive deep into the undergrowth and visually explode off the page. State of Wonder combines suspense and absorbing characters while delivering an unexpected ending.

    Power Quote: “Every drop of rain hit the ground with such force it bounced back up again, giving the earth the appearance of something boiling.”

    Lest you think I’m encouraging a trip that will have you encountering poisonous dart frogs or 8-foot snakes, it’s the sense of place that’s most evocative here. The joy of heading into unchartered territory, whether from a travel perspective, or a literary one.

    Shop It:

    State Of Wonder


    A book about travel / Everywhere

    Less Book

    Less, by Andrew Sean Greer

    What’s the gist?

    Failed, aging novelist, Arthur Less, accepts a series of invitations to literary events around the world to avoid the wedding of a former boyfriend. A brilliant satire that takes Arthur from a mishap in Morocco to a brush with death in Berlin, to being deserted on a desert island. 

    A reminder that what comes around goes around, this tale of human nature hilariously illustrates the perils of running away from our problems. While reading about Arthur’s escapades, I find myself laughing out loud. A lot. Fall in love with our endearing protagonist as he not only loses his luggage but his grasp on reality.

    Why this book about travel inspires

    An imaginative and absorbing tale, Greer takes the reader around the world with fresh humor, self-deprecation, and sharp wit. From the ever-busy streets of New York City, the culinary world of Japan, and the romantic rooftop hotels of Paris. Readers will revel in the details of Arthur’s visit to India, cheer for him in Germany, and despair as he becomes unhinged in Mexico.

    Power Quote: “New York is a city of eight million people, approximately seven million of whom will be furious when they hear you were in town and didn’t meet them for an expensive dinner, five million furious you didn’t visit their new baby, three million furious you didn’t see their new show, one million furious you didn’t call for sex, but only five available to meet you.”

    A touch of Jerry Seinfeld, a sliver of Carrie Bradshaw, and a handful of ‘Just Jack’. Oh, and a million laughs. Less will have you laughing out loud, too.

    Note: There’s now even more Less to love. Greer’s latest book Less is Lost, (Hey, I’m lost too!) is climbing up the bestseller lists as we speak. This time we follow Arthur and his mishaps on a road trip across America. Is there hope for Arthur after 50? I, for one, can’t wait to find out.

    Shop It:

    Less

    NYC with sunlight
    NYC, 2018

    A book about travel is a powerful thing

    The best books about travel are the ones that immerse me in the landscape and culture. The ones that allow me to smell the food and taste the wine. I’m in awe of writing that prepares me for a journey into unknown regions. Whether that be South America, South Dakota, or New South Wales. It’s a different way to explore the world, for sure, but still pretty satisfying.

    I no longer have to read sneakily behind my mom’s back (Mom, I bet you knew all along). I’m a grown-up now. I can read all night if I want to. Although I can’t don’t. Getting old ain’t for sissies, as my dad likes to say.

    A book about travel is powerful beyond its transporting nature. It’s how we learn about other civilizations and people. It’s how we expand our mindset and our vocabularies. Its power is right there on the page. You need only be able to stay awake long enough to absorb it.

    Safe travels.


    What’s on my travel wish list? Click here: Get my Wish List Destination Guide FREE.


  • Up for a Challenge? Why the Best Family Resort In Punta Mita is The Four Seasons.

    Up for a Challenge? Why the Best Family Resort In Punta Mita is The Four Seasons.

    Read on to discover the best family resort in Punta Mita— The Four Seasons. Punta Mita is the sun-soaked, palm tree-dotted peninsula in Mexico.  And it’s one of the most luxurious spots in Mexico.


    For The Love of Travel

    I love traveling to hidden, off-the-beaten-path, inaccessible, far-flung destinations. I love hotels that are boutique in size, blend seamlessly into the environment, and whose entrances are easily passed unnoticed.

    The Four Seasons Punta Mita is not one of those places.

    Palm trees

    Yet, it is as close to resort perfection as one can find. Anyone who has been there can write effusive, enthusiastic, and exuberant reviews; wax lyrical about its well-appointed rooms, and its impeccable grounds, and define the nuances between each of the five on-site restaurants. Anyone can describe this stunning property that hangs magnificently off of a jagged, rugged peninsula.

    I started to think, (a dangerous undertaking as my husband likes to chide). There are countless typical luxuries that we have come to expect from world-class resorts. Yet, I wondered if there are new table stakes at play. Is there a new set of expectations, now as we begin to crawl out of our bubbles, and into a decidedly different world of travel?

    Are these new luxury amenities tangible, intangible, or both? Does the Four Seasons in Punta Mita deliver? And what role, if any, does Mother Nature play? Let’s tally it up.

    Setting the stage at the best family resort in Punta Mita

    Punta Mita is a 1500-acre private peninsula in Nayarit, Mexico. The peninsula, surrounded by the mighty Pacific on three sides, is a gated community of perfectly extravagant villas, perfectly pristine beach resorts, and perfectly manicured golf courses. Do you detect a theme? Perfect, read on.

    Upon arriving at the richly colored garden entrance of the Four Seasons, we are whisked through the open-air lobby towards the hotel’s money view. It’s an expansive 360-degree panorama of the ocean and grounds. Liliana, our concierge, treats us to the new-ish hospitality trend, the ‘non’ check-in, check-in.

    We are invited to sit and relax. A server stood nearby with glasses of bubbly, ruby-red fruit punch, and a carafe of tequila (for those of us keen to start the festive season straight away).

    Our bags are swiftly transferred to our rooms. No fussy front desk, no wasted minutes waiting for a room key, and no delays. (The Four Seasons: 1, Mother Nature: 0)

    Palm view

    Oceanfront life at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

    The Oceanfront Casita was true to its name. It isn’t unusual for a resort to claim an oceanfront room that is actually not quite ‘fronting’ the ocean. Anyone who says a hotel room is just a place to rest their head at night hasn’t been to this room.

    Our casita was close enough to the sea that I tasted the salt in the air when I stood on the veranda. All that lay between us and the water’s edge were a few low-lying desert plants and lone cacti.

    Floor-to-ceiling doors slid open to the outermost edges of the room—a stage welcoming us to the Pacific. The room itself is simple and modern. Each piece of furniture is arranged to maximize the view. A table filled with housemade chips, guacamole, and yet more tequila sat nearby. If the Four Seasons were trying to get us to spend seven days in our casita, they were doing an excellent job.

    Room view Ocean Casita

    A flock of seagulls skimmed the water’s surface in front of me, as if on cue from the front desk. An enormous, perfectly-placed boulder broke the surface of the water in the near distance. Later that evening, we discovered it lit by a spotlight, creating an ethereal shimmer to the otherwise inky, black sea.

    Which was here first, I wondered, the rock or the resort? My money was on the rock, whose starring role at the resort was likely discovered by a group of clever architects. (Four Seasons: 1, Mother Nature: 1)

    Dos Catrinas

    Start your day with a Smize

    I’m biased toward Mexico. It is a country whose hospitality has welcomed us countless times over the years. Whether a villa vacation, a swanky beach resort, or a wind sports mecca in a sleepy fishing village, Mexico over-delivers. Where is the Mexican hospitality manual hiding, and why won’t they share it with the rest of the world?

    The main restaurant, Dos Catrinas, opened up towards the Pacific Ocean. Rafael greeted me each morning and caught on to my breakfast routine immediately. A creature of habit, I like to sit leisurely with my first cappuccino, sometimes writing, sometimes watching for whales, always observing and overhearing, before I move on to anything food-related.

     Breakfast

    Overheard in Punta Mita

    A man at the next table appeared to have a serendipitous encounter with an old acquaintance. Without a trace of irony, he asked, “So, have you had a good year?”. I cringed. At another table, I heard a toddler ask her dad, “What’s your spirit animal?” What’s mine, I thought? Overhearing is a favorite vacation pastime.

    Dos Catrinas

    Rafael had an endearing way of smiling with his eyes. In our current mask-wearing world, a ‘smize’, or eye smile, is a thing. Just ask supermodel, Tyra Banks, who coined the verb back in 2009 on her TV series, America’s Top Model.  Rafael nailed the smize—Tyra would have been impressed. (The Four Seasons: 2, Mother Nature: 1)

    The staff’s graciousness was a thread that ran deep and wide throughout the resort. While one could argue that that kind of hospitality is table stakes at a luxury resort (and I agree, it is) somehow, the Four Seasons took it much further. They made a 170+ room resort feel as small and personal as a boutique hotel.


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    Beach view

    Beaching, the sport

    The two, wide crescent beaches that flanked the property equally captured my attention. More naturally placed boulders and rocks jutted out from the sea, and foamy white, waves crashed against them with wild abandon.

    At the start of sunset, when the tide was low, we walked far out into the tidal pools and admired the views of the coastline from afar.

    We are beach people and settled ourselves on loungers under wide, thatched umbrellas each morning. Hours melted away. All meals and drinks were conveniently delivered to us. I looked at my step counter for the day: 26. Yikes.

    Beach umbrellas

    Beach party

    Less typical beachside surprises came in the form of a pop-up catered birthday party on the sand. Or, the roving foot masseuses that could be booked on demand. A daily ‘treat’ (ice-pop, fruit, iced drink), was offered each afternoon, along with the resort’s ice cream cart that had kids and adults alike lining up.

    A sandy taco stand nestled between the two coastal crescents served up trios of made-to-order tacos. Home-made pico de gallo topped the pork carnitas and low-key wooden picnic tables made for a lazy, boozy, lunch.

    An Evian spritz, and a white, chilled towel, came by just when the sun was at its peak. And, although I didn’t meet him, the resort had a roaming ‘sunglass doctor’, for those who may have had an icky smudge on their Maui Jims. Over the top? For sure. Yet, all these perks were somehow delivered in an unobtrusive, dare I say, understated way.

    Resident Hawks at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

    The most clever beach amenity, however, was not on the beach. Two regal resident hawks swiftly flew overhead throughout the day. Originally, I assumed the hawks and their falconer were there as entertainment for the kids.

    Lunch

    In fact, they were there to scare away greedy crows, and any other birds that attempted to steal a guest’s guacamole when they were otherwise snoozing, or deep into the latest Kristin Hannah novel. A natural way to eradicate a simple nuisance. Novel, indeed! (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 1)


    More family-friendly resort ideas:

    Far off the beaten path and surfing on-site—Mukul, in Nicaragua, is the ultimate resort for the family.

    Keep Mexican hospitality top of mind at yet another family-friendly spot, Esperanza in Cabo San Lucas.


    Infinity pool

    Insta-Pooling at the best family resort in Punta Mita

    I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Nuna, the resort’s stunningly designed infinity-edged pool. Nuna could have had its own Instagram account, and perhaps it does. By day, its glassy surface mirrored the tall palms and the clouds above. At sunset, it reflected the prismatic patterns of orange, red, and purple that took over the sky.

      Sunset view

    The pool was a show-stopper. Even the semicircular shaded awning, for those who prefer less sun, was photo-worthy. Uniquely designed, guests could enjoy both the pool and its views over the ocean, simultaneously.

    We lost our younger kids to the lazy river for a few hours each day. I tend to associate a lazy river with an opulent, over-the-top, behemoth of a hotel on an island in the Atlantic. The Four Seasons interpretation was tasteful and nestled deeply enough into the resort that one might miss it if unaware of its presence.

    The lazy river, combined with a large game room (ping pong, air hockey, and about a dozen large, flat-screen, PlayStations), made the resort kid-friendly without being kid-centric. The game room was also an ideal way to protect them from the sun’s midday rays for a bit. Win, win.

    Wildlife, if you know where to look

    Diego, one of the many personable waiters, told me that whales usually passed by the resort between 3-4pm, on their way from Puerto Vallarta. I didn’t Doubt Diego but only hoped the whales were punctual, as I was excited to enjoy the whale procession with my afternoon latte.

    Room view Ocean Casita

    Whale watching has always been one of my favorite sports in Mexico. I only wish it burned more calories.

    As it turns out, the whales were in good form that week, maybe celebrating the end of 2020 with the same enthusiasm that we were. My binoculars were constantly scanning the sea for the tell-tale ocean spray. A clue that a whale will soon break the surface for air. (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 2)

    Later in the evening, dozens of baby sea turtles were released into the Pacific, their tiny flippers pushing through the sand. Shallow waves knocked them off balance for a moment while they once again found their bearings.

    Beach turtles

    It was impossible not to route for them as they blindly struggled to reach the sea. Mother Nature in all her glory. (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 3)

    On-site surf at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

    The rest of my family prefers sports that actually do burn calories. One of the inherent draws of the Four Seasons Punta Mita was the opportunity to surf directly from the resort’s beach. This is unusual. At many resort-based surfing destinations, one needs to drive to get to the ideal surf spot. Having it on-site was a luxurious convenience.

    Surfing

    We first met Grant, from TropicSurf, a few years back during a spring break at Mukul, an Auberge resort, in Nicaragua. Our kids had immediately taken to the breaks with his enthusiasm and encouragement. On this trip, Grant even managed to get me out on a board. No small feat, as many of my friends know, being in the ocean is decidedly not my thing.

    Although TropicSurf is not a part of the Four Seasons resort, it is a snap to organize. The combination of having TropicSurf on hand and the natural environment in which to surf give a point to both Mother Nature and the resort. (The Four Seasons: 4, Mother Nature: 4)

    Mother Nature, for the win at The Four Seasons

    How often does one wake up in the morning to a full moon? For me, once.

    7:46am December 30, 2020. A rising full moon cast light across the sea towards my veranda. The rarity of the moment did not escape me, nor did the fact that I could see the lunar seas and highlands of the moon’s surface with my naked eye.

    The sea bubbled under the moonlit path that unfurled towards me like a red carpet on Oscar Night. Layers of pale pinks and cornflower blues stretched across the sky like an enormous gender reveal for twins.

    Room view

    I thought about the whales—were they confused? Would they still head up here from Puerto Vallarta today as planned? The sun began to rise quickly, greedily chasing the moon from its territory. I watched with as much intensity as I could manage pre-caffeine. The sky was changing at breakneck speed, and this unique phenomenon, I knew, would soon be over.

    Room view Ocean Casita

    8:17am. A fitting goodbye for 2020. I got dressed and headed towards caffeine. (The Four Seasons: 4, Mother Nature: 5)

    Nothing is perfect

    I am reluctant to use the word ‘perfect’ in travel writing. Perfect has a ceiling. It doesn’t allow room for improvement—and who doesn’t have room to improve? Here, I used “perfect” to question the perception of perfection and to think about my own ideals and needs.

    Time, as my Soul Cycle instructor, Tanysha, proclaimed mid-ride yesterday, is one thing we can never get back. There is a time and place for adventure and a time and place for pure luxury, both tangible and intangible.

    The Four Seasons Punta Mita may be considered a ‘typical’ luxury beach resort. Yet, it found atypical ways to push the envelope in new travel expectations (with a little help from Mother Nature). Some might even say, perfect.

    But who’s keeping score?


    Click here and see what all the fuss is about at The Four Seasons, Punta Mita 


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  • 5 stunning villas that will inspire your next getaway

    5 stunning villas that will inspire your next getaway

     Planning a villa getaway

    Now is the time to start planning a villa getaway. Villas, as opposed to hotels, is a natural choice for social distancing. They are inherently secluded and allow guests to spread out. Villas erase the need for babysitters or restaurants since a personal chef can be one of the decadent perks of villa life.

    Finding the right villa can be a labor of love. It needs the optimal balance of indoor and outdoor living and is designed with views in mind. They need to have just the right collection of ‘toys’, whether for age 4 or 40.

    Pool view

    Super-luxe amenities may include an infinity pool, a beachfront location, and a built-in sound system. A fully-stocked, complimentary, wine cellar, and a yoga sanctuary. These are all in the mix of what makes a villa good, versus absolutely mind-blowing.

    These days, understated luxury is all the more sought after. As opposed to extravagant, over-the-top, opulence. The biggest compliment for a villa is that it is so tranquil and so thoughtfully laid out that no one ever wants to leave it.

    Bramasole outside

    What follows are my top five villas around the globe. Get ready to pull the trigger.

    Best Villa Getaway #5

    One-Bedroom Pool Villa at The Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Marrakech, Morocco

    Villa Vibe: Modern-riad oasis

    The Moroccan property of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel is a short drive from the famous Medina of Marrakech. Yet, it feels like another world. It has over 20 hectares of jasmine patches, olive trees, and 100,000 fragrant roses. The hotel’s 54 private villas dot the property in a scenic serpentine route. Reflecting pools and majestic, wavering palms abound.

    Villa entrance

    Why I like the villas at the Mandarin Oriental:

    The austere, one-bedroom pool villa has a rose-covered entry and an oversized, wooden door that opens into a private courtyard.

    Pool villa Pool villa jacuzzi

    A long, dramatic, pool welcomes guests like a red carpet to the Oscars. At its far end, the pool morphs into a sheltered hot tub. It nestles squarely against the sliding glass doors of the master suite.

    Pool villa bedroom Room interior

    Each room opens up to the central courtyard, reinforcing the blurry edges of indoor and outdoor living. Contemporary Moroccan decor is captured in subtle ways. Soft Berber rugs, elaborate, stone artwork, and even the design details of lampshades.

    A hammam-inspired shower is an Arabic bathing ritual used for cleansing. It’s an added luxurious feature of the villa. Yet, it posed yet another distraction from exploring the mesmerizing city of Marrakech.

    Mandarin Oriental pool view Mandarin Oriental courtyard of pool villa

    USP (Unique Selling Point): An elongated, horizontal fire pit cuts into the courtyard wall. An outdoor kitchen and bar, with plush outdoor sofas, make the inside of the villa nearly redundant. It’s just this combination of open-plan architecture overlaid with total seclusion, that makes this hotel villa so enchanting.

    Grounds of The Mandarin Oriental

    Best Villa Getaway #4

    The Three-Bedroom Beach Residence at Sugar Beach, St Lucia

    Villa Vibe: Colonial charm, perfected

    The majestic, towering Pitons are a duo of volcanic spires and the visual centerpiece of the island of St Lucia. They stand at 2,618ft and 2,438ft respectively. The Pitons are the geological defining feature of this mountainous paradise in the Windward Islands.

    Beach cricket

    Viceroy Sugar Beach, once a thriving 18th-century sugar plantation, won the Caribbean lottery on location. It’s one of only two resorts that rest between the Pitons, and the only one that is beachfront. They’ve been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. At any given time of day, one Piton is lit to perfection, while the other lies in dramatic shadow.

    Both Pitons are magnificent around the clock. In fact, they are so highly regarded, that they are proudly displayed on the national flag, as well as the name of the local beer. Two high honors, indeed.

    Patio views

    Why I like the beach residences at Sugar Beach:

    Our plantation-inspired, three-bedroom beach residence has uninterrupted 360 views of the sea. It also sits steps from the beach. Standing on the expansive pool deck, I look to my left—Gros Piton. I look to my right—Petit Piton. Straight ahead are crystal clear cerulean waters. Each direction I face is more inspiring than the next.

    Every room has large glass-paned windows that face the ocean. Sliding glass doors reinforce the melding of indoor and outdoor life. From the lantern-lit deck, we watch the chartered catamarans and sailboats slowly drift in and out of the harbor. An unvarnished portrait of the seascape is constantly re-imagined before our eyes.

    Pool at villa Villa bedroom view

    Four-poster beds have romantic, voile draping that evoked a dream-like sanctuary. White-on-white, silky Egyptian cotton linens, contrast with wooden, colonial touches. Natural jute weaves and rattan adds to the breezy vibe of the residence.

    Patio views

    A long, infinity pool parallels the sea, hovering just high enough above it so that it feels as if we are swimming laps alongside the horizon. The connecting hot tub makes for the most secluded sundowner spot on the island.

    USP: Beach residences come with a personal butler to attend to all needs that may arise during the stay. Guests are given a cell phone with their direct dial. Butlers can organize excursions, massage appointments, and food and beverage stocked upon arrival.

    Sunset view

    Best Villa Getaway #3

    Casa Majani, Punta Mita, Mexico

    Villa Vibe: The ultimate in understated luxury

    Punta Mita is an exclusive resort community in Nayarit, Mexico. It has long been associated with understated, beachfront beauty. It’s also the home to both St. Regis and the Four Seasons resorts. Set upon 1500 swoon-worthy acres, and surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on three sides, the lure of Punta Mita is palpable.

    Majani exterior signage

    There is no shortage of heart-stopping villas to be found on this gently manicured private peninsula in the Pacific Ocean. However, the serene undercurrent of Villa Casa Majani mimics the peninsula itself, with water as its defining feature.

    Why I like Casa Majani:

    Casa Majani boasts six seductive bedrooms, interconnected via garden-filled pathways, Manzanillo trees, and meandering reflecting pools.

    Exterior Majani
    Photo Credit: Casa Majani

    Suite Keili is one of two master suites and is best described as a ‘bedroom island.’ The infinity pools that surround the suite look on towards the ocean. They mirror the prismatic colors of the Mexican sky.

    dining loft at casa majani
    Photo Credit: Casa Majani

    The architectural centerpiece of the villa is the enormous thatched-roofed grand palapa loft. Infinitely breezy, it plays many roles. Pre-dinner cocktail lounge, shady reading nook, or whale-watching perch.

    The natural hues and wooden accents are in line with a modern Mexican aesthetic. Touches of bright, traditional colors like persimmon, fuchsia, and lime green, accent the decor artfully.

    Majani thatched loft

    On our visit, it takes all of one morning for the seasoned staff to remember each of our names, as well as our caffeinated vices. Mini tacos with fresh guacamole appear poolside before anyone’s stomach had the chance to rumble.

    Hand-crafted cocktails magically arrive at the first signs of dusk. A dedicated concierge helped facilitate our needs, whether organizing an on-site masseuse, or a group tequila tasting.

    Pool view majani
    Photo Credit: Casa Majani

    USP: Casa Majani is a destination unto itself. But should guests decide to venture off-property, access to the Four Seasons and St Regis resorts is included. Given that Casa Majani has its own yoga studio and gym, one should choose excursions wisely.

    Best Villa Getaway #2

    Villa Laura, Cortona, Italy

    Villa Vibe: Under the Tuscan sun, literally

    A sweeping property just outside of the walled Italian village of Cortona is the famed setting of the film, Under the Tuscan Sun. Guests of Villa Laura, have an opportunity to create their own Tuscan memories in this restored 17th-century villa.

    Bramasole grounds

    Why I like Villa Laura:

    The movie and book are based on Frances Mayes’ experience at Bramasole, which means ‘to yearn for the sun.’ It’s something you may never do, as the property fully absorbs every ray of sunlight, whether indoors, or out. Three unique buildings nestle within the property and manicured gardens. The Villa, the Farmhouse, and the Limonaia. There are ten ensuite guest rooms between them.

    Bramasole outdoor dinner Bramasole dining

    The buildings date back to 600AD, and part of the charm of Villa Laura is the history that is sensed as you spend time exploring the grounds. The washed stucco villa, with sage green-painted shutters, changes color from pale yellow to rich gold over the course of the day. Light shifts and unfolds. The stone-walled farmhouse has an outdoor dining area that overlooks miles of the verdant Italian countryside.

    Bramasole pool scene

    USP: Every outdoor path presents one stunning photo opportunity after another. A grand pool, a hot tub, and an organic vegetable garden complete the scene.

    Indoors, guests will find a pool table, games room, and stocked wine cellar. The nearby village of Cortona might be calling, but it will undoubtedly be difficult to answer.

    Best Villa Getaway #1

    Villa Ixfalia, St Barths

    Villa Vibe: Swanky French Riviera

    The overgrown jungle-like entrance of St Barth’s Villa Ixfalia is deceptive. Perhaps, this is intentional—the drama of a velvet curtain opening at showtime. A wooden planked path leads guests through a wide threshold and into a vast, open-air living space.

    Pool at sunset

    Why I like Villa Ixfalia:

    Over twenty rattan lampshades dangle above in varying shapes, sizes, and heights. Yet, as mesmerizing as they may be, chances are you won’t notice them. Your eyes will be instinctively drawn ahead.

    Living room Ixfalia living space

    Cue the panorama. The only thing that lies between you and the Caribbean Sea is a glacial blue infinity pool. Perched several hundred feet in the air, you may feel you are swimming in the sky. Vistas overlooks the beaches of this swanky European-influenced island.

    Beaches views from above

    Rooms are designed in soft earth tones, and with natural textiles, all sea-facing. Some have private outdoor showers, and all have flat-screen Apple TVs and found objects. Bleached animal skulls, driftwood sculptures, and gigantic white shells add to the nature-inspired villa vibe.

    Master bedroom exterior Master bedroom

    The master bedroom’s king-sized bed faces floor-to-ceiling glass doors that open to the pool. One feels miles above the world, both literally and figuratively. A welcomed distance from reality.

    Overview

    USP: The infinity pool and patio have tiers of large, double-wide sun loungers and captivating views of Eden Rock Resort. Guests will find themselves in a constant conundrum—wanting to explore the island but never wanting to leave the villa. With a dedicated butler and French chef on hand, there is virtually no need.

    Cocktails Breakfast view

    Get villa-inspired

    Many of these villas fall firmly in the ‘understated luxury’ category. But there are countless iterations of this vacation to suit different budgets and geographic restraints.

    There are local Airbnbs, far-flung Airbnb Luxe destinations, intimate cabin stays glamping or mountain treehouses. Then, of course, there are luxury hotels that offer private villas and residences. All you need is a bit of inspiration and creativity. A villa vacation can’t come soon enough.

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  • Discover Why Esperanza is the Family Escape You Need

    The resort we chose for spring break, not surprisingly, needed to be family-friendly. There is a difference, however, between family-friendly and completely geared toward kids. Striking that balance is never easy, many places have good intentions but fail. Esperanza, in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, had been recommended to me over the years, so we went for it.

    It managed to combine all the touches that would make my husband and me happy: the gorgeous views, great food, and thoughtful service, as well as all the things our kids would want. When we booked, we had no idea what would happen in the world just a few months later, but we pushed forward and ended up with a (different kind of) trip to remember.


    A Day Like Any Other

    It’s March 11th. The president has just announced that all US nationals must return from Europe. There is panic overseas as Americans scramble to get home within two days. There is panic at airports and at universities where students study abroad. There is panic everywhere, it seems. I panic, too.

    That evening, my husband and I went back and forth about whether we stay home or go away as planned to Mexico. It’s our kid’s spring break, that coveted two-week bridge between winter and spring, cold and hot. We agree—we will go. An hour later, we agree again—we should stay. The next morning, we agree one more time—let’s just go. Rarely are our views so aligned! Yet, it was far from comforting.

    We are aware that this might be our last vacation for a while. We grasp that we are on the cusp of something big. We know our family would benefit from time away, together, and outside of the escalating chaos. We realize that if we go, things will look much different when we return.

    We organize ourselves. We prepare to turn around upon touchdown, or, to stay indefinitely, and pack accordingly. Six bottles of Theraflu, five canisters of disinfectant wipes, and three hand pumps of Purell. Is that enough? Are we really going? What did we agree upon again?

    It’s March 14th. Lift off.

    Touch Down

    When we landed in Cabo San Lucas, we were keenly aware that this vacation would be unlike any other. A telling sign was that our plane, normally booked solid at this time of year, boarded only 30 passengers. Social distancing, a term swiftly creeping into everyday vernacular, was not an issue.

    The days ahead would be inherently more reflective and heavier with the uncertainty of the future. I knew this trip would be inked in my memory, and not for the usual reasons.

    Esperanza at night

    Esperanza

    Often, I write about the overall feel of a destination, the gestalt—to use a theory that would make my art history professor proud. My brain simplifies and organizes ideas in a way that is more user-friendly, and more interesting to read. For instance, describing the way the bedsheets felt, or what combination of spices were in that delicious tortilla soup. How, and if, the resort organically settled into its surroundings. Details that prove to be big and important in the world of inspirational travel. Details that make for pretty sound bites.

    Esperanza, as anyone can see from photos, is a stunning property that sits upon a jagged cliff above the Sea of Cortez. There is much I can say about the beauty, both natural, and man-made, of this Auberge-owned hotel.

    I am going to focus more on the feelings that made our time in Mexico worthwhile, to illustrate the emotive piece of the trip. And, I’m going to write about whales.

    Cocina del Mar restaurant

    Rituals

    The main restaurant at Esperanza, Cocina del Mar, is an aerie—as easily suited to hawks as humans, perched high above a small beach. On the way to breakfast each morning, the kids raced to the circular landing at its entrance to glimpse the daily sand drawing. Along the way, we all tried to guess what it might be—a crab, sailboat, and shell. Why this part of the day became such a highlight amused me. I think the idea of a happy surprise was needed, no matter how small.

    I naturally fell into a daily ritual of my own. First, I ordered a wellness shot of turmeric root, lime juice, pineapple, and ginger. I didn’t actually enjoy its robust taste or its jarring school bus color, but I wistfully imagined its medicinal value could keep a virus at bay.

    Cocina del Mar views

    What’s Newsworthy?

    Next, I read the news, a 15-minute self-imposed maximum, as it made my heart race and my skin heat up. Wasn’t I here partly to escape the news cycle—which was inconsistent, filled with misinformation, and designed to terrify?

    Lastly, I looked at the sea, training my vision for the tell-tale puffs of air that signaled a whale’s presence. Some mornings, they popped through the surface like champagne corks on New Year’s Eve, and other days, they were more elusive. This morning routine settled me, and the whale spotting became another highlight of my day. It gave me restorative moments of calm. By the second breakfast, the waiters knew my order, where I liked to be seated, and had a pair of binoculars on standby.

    During our week at Esperanza, the world outlook became bleaker, the news became direr. I woke up each day, wondering if this was going to be the last, that we would have to pack up and go. I relied upon the whales to ground my spinning thoughts.

    Color and light

    The color palette of Esperanza mimicked the landscape. Pale blue, inky blue, beige, and foamy white—naturally soothing colors. Rolling waves edged up, and then crashed below, the rocky promontory where I sat, showing off as if they were a slo-mo video capture for the latest iPhone commercial. Who knew how deafening the sound of the sea could be until you had all the time in the world to listen?

    The light was so pretty it appeared to stick to the obsidian-textured rocks. Several hundred wet, black crabs moved as one over them, giving the impression that the rocks were fluid, rather than solid. The gestalt theory again, is the principle of ‘common fate’—that our brains will lump together individual things that move in a similar direction as a group, and consider it one stimulus. It’s pretty clear I had too much time alone with my thoughts at this point, isn’t it?

    Beach view with restaurant

    Animal Kingdom

    I watched the cast of crabs (yes, that is the technical term, I just googled it) scuttle as a unit, and immediately felt my blood pressure plummet. Why don’t I watch the Discovery Channel more often, I chided myself. It’s cheaper than therapy! Wildlife viewing—an organic cure-all.

    A pair of iguanas played peek-a-boo around the desert-like boulders near the pool. I gathered they were the resident reptiles, and for many days spied them searching for whales with me.

    Inside bar scene

    Little Kindnesses

    It was clear early on that the resort was overstaffed, having prepared for the normal onslaught of families worldwide to fill their swimming pools, belly up to their bars, and keep the tennis pros on their toes. The resort, a mix of haciendas, suites, villas, and casitas, looked to be at about 40% capacity when we arrived. When we departed, I sensed there were only about 40 guests left.

    Lunch at Esperanza

    Waiters glided about the palm-thatched and open-air restaurants, never forgetting an extra wedge of lime for a beer or the preference for soy milk over cow. This was made only slightly easier to remember by the unfortunate fact that the staff outnumbered the guests. At Esperanza, however, attentive service was par for the course, served daily with warm, engaging smiles.

    I was impressed by the above-and-beyond kindnesses, the silent and unsaid courtesies that were extended to everyone, by everyone, all of the time. It was as if the waiters, pool staff, and groundskeepers all knew that something was changing and that it may be a while before they returned to any sense of normalcy. They were right.

    Dinner views

    Images

    I can’t say we didn’t fully take advantage of the bubble we found ourselves in that week. Our family bonded in a different way than usual. We were very together, a precursor for the weeks of togetherness ahead.

    My son and husband went on a few long desert runs, harassing skittish rabbits along the way. The kids rode waves with local surf instructors. I spent hours coloring with fine-tipped sharpies on the balcony—my current obsession, while the kids made Tik Toks—their current obsession. All of us tore through novels, having brought stacks from home.

    Fisherman by the sea Fisherman by the sea

    The Intrinsic Beauty of Esperanza

    I relished any moment that got me past recurring doomsday thoughts. The lulling beach hammock, the statuesque iguanas, the pool waiters who wore pins that cheerfully cried, ‘Yes way, rosé!’. The serendipitous moment I photographed a fisherman just as he reeled in his catch and the way he proudly held up his prize. The prismatic sunsets each night belied the dark state of the world. Those six nights stretched into forever.

    Entry of Esperanza

    The intrinsic beauty of Esperanza was seen, and felt, inside and out. The 17 acres of lush, well-kept gardens, and grounds, are complete with a lovely koi pond, and interesting kid-centric activities like bocce and life-sized chess. The intimate spa is an oasis within the oasis. The nightly bonfire on the balcony of the main entry—all contributed to that escape from reality we were seeking.

    Beaches in Cabo San Lucas

    Whales

    On the day that would become our last full day in Mexico, we spent a few hours at sea searching for whales. The boat picked us up from the pier, and we leisurely motored past the intsa-ready Arch of Cabo San Lucas. This natural rock formation, teetering on the brink of collapse, is located at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula. Normally overrun with tourist boats competing for pole position, we nearly had it to ourselves.

    Arch of San Cabos

    Our captain was, not surprisingly, well versed in all things whale and had a keen eye for spotting them, even from incalculable distances.  Yet, as prepared as we were to see what we came for, witnessing the slow-motion corkscrew movement of a breaching whale is nothing short of heart-stopping. Even the biggest grumps in our group (ahem, Chase and Ella) were without words, maybe for the first time. The whales’ powerful and muscular bodies were awesome; their tails slapped the water like pancakes being flipped by a short-order cook.

    Seconds later, as if the universe was trying to tell me, ‘You’ve seen all there is to see here, don’t push your luck.’ a burst of texts from well-meaning friends alerted us of the recent world developments. ‘The US borders are closing’, they wrote — ‘when are you coming back?’

    Our time was up.

    Purple sunset views

    Closure

    We had managed six nights in Cabo San Lucas, and every one of them was a bonus in my eyes. I sat at breakfast, wellness shot in hand, that last morning. If Esperanza does any one thing to perfection, it is dining, where even the indoor seating feels like outdoor seating. And the views were transporting, regardless of the time of day.

    Adult pool

    Throughout the week, I noticed the guests that had canceled their trips by their absence on the neatly spaced pool loungers. (Loungers that would have been annoyingly spoken for by 7am each morning.) I noticed the lack of ambient noise and family chatter in the empty seats of the restaurants. It was a poignant, quiet, self-reflecting spring break. Not exactly what we had in mind when we booked all those months ago, but lovely in many ways, nonetheless.

    My mind filled in those gaps. Another principle of gestalt—is closure. In design, closure refers to how the brain will automatically fill in any missing pieces of an image to create a whole. What missing pieces will I bring back into my life, and what pieces will I purposely leave out when I get home?

    Esperanza will once again fill its pools, bars, and suites. It may be filling up as we speak, as restrictions loosen, and people decide they don’t want to cook, go food shopping, or clean dishes for a few days. The thoughtful, and extremely capable staff, is waiting. So are the whales. I’m hoping that the whales are waiting, too.

    Where will you find yourself next? Just Click.

    Experience the magical and color-filled Slot Canyons with Amangiri as your base, in Utah.

    Stay out west a little longer and head to the Tetons in Jackson.

    Need more adventure? Dunton Hot Springs, in Colorado, will complete your western travel trilogy.

  • Is San Miguel the World’s Best City? You decide.

    Exploring San Miguel de Allende, Mexico  /

    Visit San Miguel de Allende between March and April. That‘s when the intensely vivid purple Jacaranda trees take over the already majestic landscape. But even if you miss the blooming Jacarandas, you won’t be disappointed. San Miguel is a city that is entirely built around color. Rich ochres, terra cottas, burnt oranges, and lush persimmon dress the Spanish Colonial architecture. They fill every street and passageway with warmth.

    Throughout the day, light bounces off the colorful stucco walls, creating ever-changing hues and textures. As the day turns to dusk, those colors shift even further, creating subtler and richer variances.

    Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, San Miguel is one of the prettiest and best-preserved hamlets in the Americas. It’s easy to see how this beautiful town, built into the side of a mountain in central Mexico, has been a haven for artists, writers, and ex-pats for decades. Unfortunately, the secret is officially out, as San Miguel was voted the best city in the world by Travel + Leisure in 2017 and 2018. It dropped a spot in 2020 but bounced back with a vengeance to recover its title in 2021.

    Does San Miguel deserve the honor? Let’s find out.

    Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel

    The centerpiece of San Miguel is, without a doubt, the looming neo-gothic church, Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel. Built in the 17th c. with pink and orange facades, spires, and pinnacles, it’s not only the tallest building in San Miguel but the most spectacular. It’s a magical spot from dusk until dawn. Street vendors line the plaza, their heads piled high with straw hats or trailing kids’ balloons.

    Folk artists sell their masterpieces. Mariachi bands strike up a tune on a whim. Costumed street performers complete the lively scene. I sit and enjoy the evolving light that plays out over the Gaudi-inspired church. The most iconic piece of architecture in the city, it‘s said that Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia inspired it.

    The trees around Plaza El Jardin are tightly manicured, looking as if they were each given a severe bob haircut. The benches that line the plaza are a great respite from the hot sun and to relax during the day.

    Rooftop Life

    San Miguel is a city that is best seen from two distinct vantage points, street level and from high above. The street level has meandering narrow cobbled alleyways, and I stumble upon an espresso bar cut into the side of a building wall. Ceramic boutiques, art galleries, and free-standing sculptures hide in other alleys. I spy local kids hanging from windows and couples walking hand in hand. Lovely trees abound and add even more color to the illustrious palette.

    The other viewpoint is from a perch high above. There are many places in San Miguel in which to achieve this. Our favorite spot by far is Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar at the Rosewood Hotel. A magnificent rooftop in its own right, even if it didn’t boast the best views in the city. But it does, and that’s how we find ourselves lounging for a few hours with cocktails and light tapas as the sun starts its slow descent and lights up the skyline like a Broadway show.

    The lucky ones score front-row seats—prime tables with unobstructed views of La Parroquia and its transforming colors. I am awed to think that this happens nearly every night of the year here in San Miguel.

    Casa Estana

    Thanks to a friend’s generosity, we are invited to stay in his villa just off the main square. Casa Estana is a three-bedroom villa with a spectacular roof deck—the true meaning of a hidden gem.

    The unassuming door off the street gives us no inkling of what luxury was to be found inside. We enter an open courtyard with stone fountains. Then we walk through another door into the perfectly appointed home. A modern kitchen, multiple fireplaces, luxury linens, and towels. Colorful flowers adorn the tables on each level.

    The true highlight of Casa Estana Is its charming and spacious roof deck. It’s a place to unwind on its plush couches, look down upon the lush trees, or have a drink by the fire pit. Casa Estana has this amazing knack for making us feel like we are in the action and outside of the action simultaneously.

    Eating our way through the city

    San Miguel has become known as a gastronomic hub in recent years. At one time San Miguel catered to backpackers, but today its appeal is far wider. Restaurants like Moxi and Áperi have attracted a refined and luxury-minded base of travelers to the city.

    We eat a few meals at Casa Estana, as it’s a challenge to leave the beauty of the roof deck. One day we venture to Café Muro for lunch. Café Muro is a simple place with wooden chairs and metal tables. Folk art hangs askew on the walls. Located on a dead-end street, it’s easy to miss.

    The Mexican food is authentic, and without pretense. I have a bowl of tortilla soup that I‘ll dream about years later. The fresh, crispy tortilla strips are placed at the bottom of the bowl. Our server slowly pours a warm rich broth over it. The soup is then topped off with fresh sour cream and chopped herbs. Sopa Azteca is perfection in a bowl.


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    Side trip in San Miguel—Sanctuary Atotonilco

    We are told a trip to San Miguel would not be complete without a stop at the Sanctuary Atotonilco. Located about 15 minutes outside of the city, it is an 18th-century church complex and is now a World Heritage Site. An incredible example of Mexican Baroque art and architecture, the murals, inscriptions, and frescoes that adorn every wall and ceiling of the church leave me speechless.

    It’s said that the landscape of the town of Atotonilco is reminiscent of Jerusalem, which gives the site an even holier aura. Mesquite trees, desert scrub, and acacia trees are in abundance and we feel transported back in time while walking the grounds.

    The exterior of the church is simple and plain, which makes the experience of entering so much more magical. It’s completely unexpected. We spend an hour admiring the architecture and art before leaving for an al fresco lunch near Nirvana, a little oasis in the countryside.

    So long, San Miguel

    Time passes at a leisurely pace. The beautiful old buildings and churches catch us at every turn, adding to the innate charm of San Miguel. It’s a happy city. A colorful city. And above all, a city that begs us to return.


    Click here for my wish list destination hot sheet. It’s free.


    Interactive Map: San Miguel

    Trip map created using Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

    Looking for More Mexico Inspiration? Click here for Esperanza, the family-friendly resort in Cabo San Lucas.