An ecolodge hotel in a sub-tropical Nicaraguan jungle isn’t for everyone. When I booked it, I wasn’t even sure it was for me. In my mind, ‘sub-tropical’ translated to ‘blindingly hot with no A/C.’ ‘Ecolodge’ meant remote and natural, which we all know is code for ‘no electricity and buggy.’ Ecolodge, I noted, was just one syllable shy of Econolodge.
At that time, the holidays were closing in fast. Halloween decorations dangled menacingly in Safeway. Toddlers wearing matching turkey PJs populated my Instagram feed. Christmas muzak filled the halls at Bloomingdale’s. Daily reminders of upcoming chaos.
In other words, September.
I wondered how far away we could get, both physically and mentally, once the last Christmas gift was unwrapped. An eco-lodge hotel sounded promising-ish.
Morgan’s Rock, here we come
An ecolodge in Nicaragua. A place I can empty my accumulated holiday anxieties onto the beach and get reacquainted with an abstract concept called simplicity. A place I can regain my far-sighted vision.
I’d like to sit still and watch cloud formations form. Or, spend an hour watching the sun dip below the ocean’s horizon and change the world into a kaleidoscope of colors. Appreciating simple things like these take time and age. At an eco-lodge in Nicaragua, I think, I’ll have both.
Admittedly, I don’t have a clue what an ecolodge hotel is really about. Only what I imagine it’s about. I do little to no research on our destination before switching my iPhone to airplane mode, adopting a fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants mindset to kick off the New Year.
And fly we did. Two flights and one shockingly small ‘charter’ plane ride over an active volcano later, we touch down on Nicaragua’s Emerald Coast—a grass-covered field surrounded by a forest. Several dozen howler monkeys greet us upon arrival. Yikes.
What is an ecolodge hotel, exactly?
Calling oneself an ecolodge these days is as easy as calling that 95lb Labradoodle in seat 32C a service pet. There are stark differences between a lodge being ‘green’ versus ‘eco.’ Ecolodges focus on minimizing the effects of tourism and the physical structure of lodging on the environment.
Ecolodges contribute to local communities, offer educational opportunities to guests, help preserve ecosystems and promote conservation efforts. True eco-lodges are situated deep within pristine, natural environments and have minimal impact on the landscape.
In contrast, green lodges or hotels are usually found in more urban areas. Improvements and sustainability practices are added to an already existing structure in order to become more eco-friendly. While green is good, eco is better—from an environmental POV, at least.
Morgan’s Rock resides on a small, sheltered, mile-long crescent bay on the edge of a jungle. Its 15 bungalows and three villas are nestled near the beach on its 4,000 acres. Each villa or bungalow is intentionally positioned where the fewest amount of trees are removed in order to build them. That’s not an easy feat in a world where guests expect unobstructed 360-degree ocean views to accompany their freshly squeezed orange juice and avo toast.
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What’s the history of Morgan’s Rock?
Morgan’s Rock was built in 2004 by the Ponçon family. Agronomist Clément-Marie Ponçon was sent to Nicaragua in 1978 on assignment by the French government to advise on developing agriculture and agroforestry.
Clément stayed on in Nicaragua, eventually starting, among other endeavors, a coffee processing plant that encompasses nearly 40% of Nicaragua’s production. In 2004, he and his wife opened a five-star eco-lodge in Nicaragua, the first of its kind, which sits on 350 acres of tropical beachfront—Morgan’s Rock.
Aside from becoming an ecolodge long before an ecolodge was a thing, Morgan’s Rock is a working farm with an estuary and organic gardens. A visit to Morgan’s Rock allows for experiences not found at typical hotels. Like the opportunity to milk cows, harvest shrimp, take a guided jungle walk at night, or go on a sloth-spotting mission in the morning.
What is the property layout?
Steep, winding, hand-crafted wooden staircases take us up through the jungle’s canopy. My calves complain as I make them climb what feels like the height of the Washington Monument multiple times a day. But along the way, the scenery masks the pain, from the micro to the macro. Vines strangle ancient ficus trees. Little lizards scurry between the rocks, and howler monkeys unleash their monstrous howls.
The jungle is overgrown, hilly, and filled with animals we can hear but rarely see. We cross a 100-ft suspension bridge with views to the Pacific en route to our bungalow. The wobbly bridge makes Morgan’s Rock feel like a Hollywood movie set. The theme song to Raiders of The Lost Ark is on a constant loop in my head because my husband insists on playing it every time we cross it. More than once I consider throwing him off.
Morgan’s Rock has a large platform yoga deck with complimentary classes. The dining area is open-plan. It overlooks a small pool that overlooks the ever-empty beach that overlooks the sea. A separate private thatched dining loft is available for larger groups, as well as a full spa.
Permanent private beach huts with braided hammocks are dotted along the beach—far enough ashore so as not to be whisked away by high tide. A small food and drink hut is close by, so we are never more than 20 feet from a Bloody Mary or a shrimp taco.
What’s an Ecolodge hotel bungalow like?
Bungalow #3 is an aerie—set high above the beach, and made with local materials by local craftsmen—another important component of ecolodge accommodations. The walls facing the sea aren’t walls at all. They are floor-to-ceiling screens that offer the money shot of sinking sunsets and rising tides.
The bed placement is at the highest point of the room and maximizes the panoramic view. I don’t even have to leave it to be fully immersed in nature. Trilling, whistling, squawking, and chirping from the birds. Howling, from the monkeys.
Eco-lodge hotels like Morgan’s Rock use energy-efficient lighting and/or very little lighting overall. Solar panels and low-impact ‘natural’ A/C units allow us to sleep comfortably each night. Hallelujah! The interiors of the treehouses are designed to mimic the jungle with dark wooden tree-like posts and thatched pitched roofs.
The sound of the ocean lulls me to sleep at any given time of day, which makes the actual getting out of bed an issue. Thankfully there is a pot of strong Nicaraguan coffee within arm’s reach. Eventually, I head to our deck to give the swinging day bed some attention before breakfast.
What’s the wildlife situation?
A big draw to staying at an ecolodge that preserves its natural surroundings in such a delicate way is the presence of animal life. More than once I equate our time in Nicaragua to a safari. From the simple indoor/outdoor treehouse accommodations to the immersion in wildlife.
On our first morning, a troop of howler monkeys passes through the area before 6am. The sun is not up yet, but everything else in the jungle most definitely is. I’m already acquainted with the howlers when they so warmly greeted us at the airstrip, or else I wouldn’t have left the bed.
Among the various noises howler monkeys make, none is more unique than the one that unfurls like a monster waking from the dead. Think White Walkers from Game of Thrones. Seriously, google ‘howler monkey sounds.’ I’ll wait. Then imagine it times ten. You wouldn’t leave the bed either.
There are many interesting species of wildlife in this part of Nicaragua. A list of what we see and don’t see follows. Fun fact, the scorpions and tarantulas here aren’t deadly. As if that’s comforting…
Howler Monkey: Saw some, heard dozens.
Capuchin Monkey: None.
Spider Monkey: One.
Scorpions: None.
Tarantula: One.
Snake: One.
Lizards: Many.
Crabs: It’s the beach, duh.
Sea Turtles: None. Wrong season.
Sloths: Sadly, none.
Jaguar: None.
Birds: White-Throated Magpie Jay, Rufous Tailed Hummingbirds, Crested Caracaras, among others. Still with me? No more birds, I promise.
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What do you do at an Ecolodge hotel?
The beauty of an ecolodge visit goes well beyond a stunning natural setting. In the case of Morgan’s Rock, we decide to find a balance between eco-tourist activities and more relaxing ones. The Emerald Coast is well known for surfing, and my husband and son surf most mornings at a nearby beach called Maderas.
Those mornings, I do pilates on our deck after I’ve spent a sufficient amount of time lounging in the regular bed and swinging on the daybed. The view from our room is better than any other spot on the property and has coffee. I have no motivation to leave it.
Daniel and I mountain bike. I take a guided bird-watching walk (which is more of a bird-listening walk.) Daniel and Chase boogie-board. I read in the hammock. We SUP and kayak in the estuary. Chase convinces me there are crocs below the water’s surface which ruins my experience. It enhances his. No one rides horses.
What’s the best thing about Morgan’s Rock?
The sunsets are hands down the prettiest and most dramatic I’ve ever seen. After sunset viewing, my second favorite activity is the farm visit. It has the potential to be cheesy. It isn’t. A group of us pile into a van and drive ten minutes to the working farm on the property. As we walk towards the cows, I notice a woman making corn tortillas and a table set for ten. I’m hungry—and happy.
The mama cow won’t stand up for us to milk her, so they bring out her calf to nurse. That clever trick gets her moving. After milking the cow, a first for me, we gather eggs. We hold cute baby chicks in our hands and I learn the hard way that they risk being pecked to death if accidentally dropped. While no chicks die that day, it’s chicken-coop chaos for a very long minute.
Soon after the chick incident, we make tortillas. Using the milk we squeezed and the eggs we collected, we are treated to a traditional Nicaraguan breakfast including Gallo Pinto. Nicknamed Spotted Rooster due to its colors, Gallo Pinto is a flavorful mix of beans, rice, peppers, cilantro, and onions. Fresh coffee, passionfruit juice, and convivial chit-chat complete the morning. I’m ready for my book and a hammock.
What’s the food and service like at Morgan’s Rock?
The food at Morgan’s Rock is simple and basic, as one would expect from a remote ecolodge that sources most of its own ingredients. I remind myself that I’m craving simplicity—it’s the reason I’m here. The best dishes are seafood-based. My lobster dinner has a whopping four lobster tails, grilled beautifully with just the right amount of butter. The thatched, open-air dining space is breezy and ambient with clinking glasses that amplify the festive mood.
Beach lunches are tacos, ceviche, salads, and grilled skewers. Early on, I discover from another guest that we can order off-menu. Clearly, Americans make up most of the clientele here. I google traditional Nicaraguan dishes like Indio Viejo and ask if they can accommodate. Of course, they can. Morgan’s Rock could certainly place more faith in American tastebuds and offer more traditional Nicaraguan options. Those dishes were the best.
The service is attentive, genuine, warm, and responsive. With so many steps at the property, it is truly amazing that our requests are handled so promptly. The staff is in excellent physical shape for obvious reasons.
That said, there are many times when things get lost in translation. These times mainly have to do with food. Ordering a sirloin but getting a rib-eye. Asking for garlic shrimp and receiving lobster. If you are a natural-born complainer, this isn’t the place for you. If you can roll with misunderstandings from a well-meaning and always-smiling staff, then you are sure to love your visit.
HNY from an Ecolodge in the jungle
A small sailboat crosses the bay on the distant horizon. Its paperwhite sail pierces the blue sky. My far-sighted vision is restored. I listen to the chorus of the jungle and the waves crashing against the desolate white sand beach in front of me. It’s New Year’s Day. I’m content.
There’s no pillow menu at Morgan’s Rock. There’s no reserve wine list and no signature scent. There are no TVs or phones. There are thousands of steps, harmless critters, and not much to do after dark. Rustic luxury here really means rustic—and not in the Blackberry Mountain way. This is a true ecolodge hotel. One of the first of its kind.
There are spectacular, unfiltered, and unobstructed sunsets. And, wildlife sounds unlike any I hear at home. There is excellent coffee. Options for adrenaline junkies to move and options for the sedentary to stay still. There’s a farm with cows, baby chicks, and fancy roosters.
An ecolodge in a sub-tropical Nicaraguan jungle isn’t for everyone. How many readers did I lose at ‘critters?’ Adventure is all the rage. So are experiences. And eco-lodges. I couldn’t have imagined a better way to start the year. With a clear head, a beach view, and a heavy dose of simplicity.
Happy New Year.
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Jamie-so good! You captured Morgan’s rock beautifully! I still miss our stay there and your entry is flash back. Keep on traveling! Look forward to next trip. ????
I love your writing and sense of humor! You had me at critters!
Bungalow #3 is for me. Also…I would be pecked to death protecting those sweet baby chicks!