Tag: botswana

  • How To Pack for an African Safari (Carry-On Only)

    How To Pack for an African Safari (Carry-On Only)

    Are you heading on safari for the first time? An African safari is an adventurer’s travel trifecta—a combination of breathtaking wildlife, stunning terrain, and unparalleled lodging and hospitality. With over 20+ game drives across four countries, I’ve learned a thing or two about how to simplify the preparation for this exciting experience. My packing lists follow—organized into four simple categories. You can also download my ‘Ultimate Safari Packing List’ to have them all in one easy-to-access place.

    And while it’s not necessary to travel with only a carry-on—if you can manage it, you won’t regret it.


    Coach bag

    The first time I went on an African safari was in 2002. It was my honeymoon. My soon-to-be husband had kept it a surprise until check-in at JFK—a gesture that felt romantic then, but would feel utterly controlling now. That’s twenty years of marriage for you.

    A few weeks before departure, Daniel gave me a gift—an overnight bag from Coach. I loved its cherry red canvas exterior, wide shoulder strap, and soft leather details. But as I’d come to expect from many of Daniel’s gifts, it came with a catch. 

    “It’s for our honeymoon!” Daniel chirped excitedly. “Oh, how cool! You mean it’s my carry-on bag?” I questioned, although I already knew the answer.

    tracking in Africa

    Being Prepared Is Isn’t Everything

    How I packed for a three-week trip to an unknown destination in a bag designed for a weekend getaway is baffling. As my faded disposable camera photos show, I packed the wrong clothes, the wrong gear, and way too many shoes. Yet, I can’t recall needing a single thing as we journeyed across Tanzania that June. That’s young love for you. 

    Despite my anecdotal story of unpreparedness, I vowed to be ready when we took our kids on safari years later. I googled safari clothing, what to wear on safari, safari must-haves, and safari packing lists. This time, I’d be prepared. This ain’t no honeymoon.  

    If a similar Google search got you here, congratulations—you have a safari on the horizon. It’s one of the world’s most intense, immersive, engaging, and magical experiences. I’ve been on safari in Tanzania, Botswana, South Africa, and Uganda. With each trip, I fine-tuned my packing skills, filing away tips for my future safari-bound self and my safari-bound friends and relatives. I figured out how to consolidate. And found my safari style without entirely forgoing fashion. I made peace with layers and colorless clothes.

    on safari

    Safari Style 101

    Safaris are considered once-in-a-lifetime experiences due to their high costs and far-flung locations. It’s painful to shell out even more money for clothing you may never wear again.

    Thankfully, safari clothing need not be expensive. The best way to dress for a safari is modestly and with a neutral color palette. Take advantage of a high/low buying strategy. This means spending more on certain pieces (like a good fleece or puffer) to balance items (like underlayers) where you can safely compromise fashion and durability.

    Bush plane

    In Africa, It’s All About Layers

    Safari game drives typically occur around sunrise and sundown. You don’t need David Attenborough to tell you these are the times of day when wildlife is most active. Unfortunately, these coincide with the times of day I am least active. But safari is well worth going outside of your comfort zone! Be suspicious of an outfitter that advertises a noon game drive. The leopards and lions will be enjoying a midday siesta. You should consider one, too. Game drives are tiring.

    As for safari clothing, it’s all about layering. Think about a tank top base layer, a lightweight, long-sleeved mid-layer, and a fleece and puffer outer layer. The thin mid-layer will be your new BFF, as it will protect your skin from the sun and pesky tsetse flies. Lightweight, long pants are better than shorts despite the temperature for the same reason. Invest in a good fleece and puffer, as you will wear them daily and likely beyond Africa.

    sunset

    And it’s all about the Sun

    Mornings in Africa are typically cool. You’ll be awake before the sun. Sunrises and sunsets are another reason why we go to Africa. The muted layers of the terrain will morph and change as the day breaks, adding another level of awe to an already awe-inspired morning. Sunsets are equally mesmerizing—with no air pollution or city lights to spoil them.

    As the temperatures rise, slowly peel off your layers. Settle into the sounds of the savannah. Get your camera ready and listen to your all-knowing guides. The fun is about to begin.

    Author and husband on safari

    Safari Clothing Packing List:

    2 x base layers (tank or short-sleeved shirts)
    2 x mid-layers (lightweight and long-sleeved, neutral colors)
    * 1 x fleece (neutral color)
    * 1 x lightweight puffer (I like this one from Patagonia because it folds down to the size of a paperback)
    1-2 linen shirts and/or shorts or, for women, a wrinkle-free dress (for evenings around the firepit comparing wildlife sightings, also doubles as a nice outfit for layover city days)
    2 x lightweight pants (zip-off ones are popular; I don’t know why)
    Buff (for dust, flies, and keeping hair off your face—the uses of a good buff are endless)
    2 x sports bras 
    7 x underwear (many lodges have complimentary laundry)
    7 x socks (at least two thicker and longer pairs to go over pants if on a walking safari or a trek in Uganda. Otherwise, prepare to meet the local fire ant community.)
    Hat (wide-brimmed to protect your neck and, yes, neutral)
    * Hiking shoes (broken in, in advance)
    Closed-toe shoes or sneakers 
    Flip flops (for hanging around the pool)
    1 x bathing suit (it’s tempting to take more—don’t. This isn’t Cabo.)

    * Splurge-worthy item


    Click here for my free ‘Ultimate Africa Safari Packing Lists’


    lion on Canon camera

    Gearing Up

    The right gear is integral to a safari experience, especially for wannabe wildlife photographers, bird nerds, and travel bloggers. But gear is cumbersome. Choose what to pack with care. Unless you’re applying for a job at Nat Geo, an iPhone may suffice—they take beautiful photos. My go-to is a combo—an iPhone (hanging from a lanyard around my neck at all times) and a Canon Rebel SL2, which is lightweight, user-friendly, and has WI-FI capabilities so I can post to Instagram in real-time. 

    Safari Gear Packing List:

    * Luggage (Eagle Creek is my go-to choice; this is my pick)
    Packing cubes (Eagle Creek packing cubes have endless uses: toiletries for plastic-free countries, dirty laundry, souvenirs)
    iPhone and charger
    iPhone lanyard (Somewhat dorky, yes—but you’ll thank me when baboons don’t steal your phone)
    * Camera and lenses (one good zoom will do—they’re expensive, consider renting one)
    Extra battery and/or SD card
    * Binoculars (sometimes provided, but having your own is worthwhile—these are the ones I use)
    Sunglasses
    Day pack (for your gear)
    Universal Travel Adapter (this is the one I have)

    * Splurge-worthy item

    White rhinos in Africa

    Little Things Count

    Don’t let the length of the following list scare you. In total, these self-care items take up less space than that extra pair of shoes you won’t wear. But little things count—especially things that protect our bodies and minds in one of the most unforgiving places on Earth.

    Safari Self-Care Packing List:

    Sunscreen (transferred into CVS travel-sized containers you can dispose of as you go)
    Lip balm with SPF
    Insect repellent (The National Capital Poison Center recommends a concentration of DEET no higher than 30%)
    Eye mask (this one is my go-to)
    Ear plugs (although the nightly chorus of wildlife is a highlight of safari) 
    Prescription meds (cute pillboxes are all the rage)
    Small medical kit (a nod to my paramedic husband, who doesn’t go to Safeway without one)
    Feminine products (because there’s no CVS in the Okavango Delta)

    Landscape

    Less is Less

    It’s human nature to be overprepared, especially in a place as foreign and remote as Africa. If you’ve chosen a reputable safari outfitter with your travel advisor, then you need not worry. Anything critical you may have forgotten will be taken care of. Strive to pack less. Make a carry-on bag a goal. Feeling unencumbered on a trip with so many moving pieces is liberating. 

    But no matter what you pack in, some things don’t belong on a safari in Africa. 

    What Not to Pack Packing List:

    Perfume (or creams/moisturizers with a strong scent that will attract or repel wildlife)
    Fine jewelry (the rhinos don’t care how many David Yurman bangles you have)
    Plastic bags (some countries, like Rwanda, are polythene-free)
    Dressy clothes and shoes (safari is decidedly casual)
    Drones (restricted in many African countries)
    Hair dryers (most lodges will have them)
    Anything you haven’t worn in the last 12 months (you think you’ll wear it in Africa—we all know you won’t)


    Click here for my free ‘Ultimate Africa Safari Packing Lists’


    Cheetah portrait

    Prepare to see the Unexpected

    One of the best things about an African safari is that anything can happen. One day, you might come across a pride of lions feasting on a wildebeest. On another, an elephant might stroll through your camp during lunch. At night, you may hear a pack of wild dogs on the hunt or discover a bush baby running circles around the inside of your tent.

    These moments define the experience—the moments you’ll retell at the firepit at night. Safari is fueled by adrenaline. Those who choose to go on safari are a self-selecting group of adventure seekers. Where the unexpected is expected, even sought out. Otherwise, we’d just go to the zoo.

    And while surprises are part of the thrill, some aren’t welcome. A few tips follow, most of which I learned from experience. 

    monkey in uganda

    Safari Travel Tips

    Luggage tip: Space in a carry-on bag is limited. So wear your heaviest items on the plane when possible. This includes hiking shoes and your fleece or puffer. You can read more about how I pack and my general packing tips here.

    Safari Planning Tip: Using a travel advisor to plan a safari makes it a stress-free experience. They work with the most well-known and reputable outfitters and can access perks and surprises you won’t get if you book it yourself. I use CIRE for all of my travel bookings. To learn more about why I use a travel advisor, read my post, “Who Needs a Travel Advisor? It Turns Out I Do.”

    Visa, vaccine, and passport tips: Travel advisors will be on top of the visa and vaccine requirements, but checking in advance is helpful. While you’re at it, make sure you have at least six months and one or more free spreads of passport space from the departure date of your trip.

    Clothing tip: As mentioned earlier, wearing neutrals is vital. But why? Colors to avoid wearing include red, yellow, orange, black, dark blue, and camo. Each of these colors has its own set of issues. In many African countries, camouflage is strictly reserved for the military. Dark colors attract tsetse flies, while bright colors make you look like prey. (Looking back at my color choices in 2002, it’s remarkable I’m alive.)

    Silverbacks

    Laundry tip: Many luxury lodges and tent camps include daily laundry. This removes the need for more clothes (and too many pairs of underwear). Get over the fact that you may wear the same pants five times. At least they will be clean. And nobody but you will notice anyway.

    Gear tip: Bring a small daypack in the Land Rover each morning. It’s a safe place to keep all those layers tidy and dust-free for future use.

    Tipping tip: If tipping makes you uncomfortable and anxious, consider choosing an outfitter that includes all gratuities. While the embedded tipping costs most certainly increase the cost of the trip, there are no awkward moments or need to fumble with local currency.

    Insurance tip: A must. Don’t leave home without it.

    Sunset Africa

    What is the Purpose of this Day?

    We wake up at the crack of dawn. It’s still dark. The only sounds I hear are buzzing insects and the rustle of leaves in the breeze. Without speaking, the four of us trudge to the jeep, where our guide, Foster, waits with a wide smile. He looks at my 13-year-old daughter, who’s radiating snarky, salty tween vibes. She’s not smiling.

    “What is the purpose of this day?” Foster says to her in a slow, enchanting baritone. With sleep in her eyes, Ella looks up. I look up, too. Ella doesn’t know. I don’t know. Who thinks about things like that? Foster does.

    But I want to know. I’m guessing Ella does, too, based on how quickly she hops in the jeep. Foster revs the engine, and we set out to find the purpose of this day. It’s somewhere out in the Okavango Delta. The best journeys answer questions you never knew to ask. Keep asking, Foster. We’re all listening.


    Click here for my free ‘Ultimate Africa Safari Packing Lists’


    (Please note some affiliate links above. I may receive a small referral fee should a product be bought through my site, but rest assured, I only highlight products I own and would buy for myself.)

  • Botswana is The Magic Kingdom

    Botswana is The Magic Kingdom

    Why go to Botswana? Traveling to Botswana for a safari with my family remains one of my top experiences. Having the opportunity to see the wildlife of remote Botswana and travel through the vast inlets of the Okavango Delta was life-altering. I hope that Botswana stays as untouched and wild as the week we spent there a few years ago. Read on to discover the magic of Africa, Botswana, and the animals of the Okavango Delta.


    There is no sound I can think of that compares to that of the African bush. Silence. Almost complete silence, except for the distant (and sometimes not so distant) roar of a lion, the slow, steady, padded thump of an elephant, and the crunch of teeth on bone. The chorus of the wildlife.

    What helps make Botswana especially magical is how remote and small you feel: hours and hours, sometimes an entire day, without seeing another soul apart from your guide. I can’t remember ever feeling so happily unplugged yet so blissfully connected.

    Selinda Camp view

    Into the Delta in Botswana

    We arrive by bush plane from Maun, having spent three nights in neighboring South Africa. A jeep picks us up on the tarmac, nothing more than a strip of land in the open plains. Iconic baobab trees, known as ‘trees of life,’ pop up in the distance.

    Giraffes in the distance

    My son asks how long it will take to get to Selinda Camp, our home in the delta, for the next few days. He is eager to start the safari. Little does he know that it has already begun. Two minutes into our drive, we spot a giraffe craning its long neck above the tree line. Hello, Botswana!

    Hippos in Botswana

    From the jeep, we hop into a small boat to take us to camp. We pass a pod of hippos who are visibly unhappy with us for invading their peaceful waters. Our guide, Foster, knows this pod well. He knows their habits and gives them a wide berth. It’s no less unnerving to see their dark eyes slowly dip below the surface, not knowing where they might pop up next. My daughter, Ella, is not amused.

    Selinda Camp dock

    As we motor towards the Selinda Camp dock, we notice a faint sound. It’s singing. As we get closer, the people attached to the lovely voices are the entire staff of Selinda Camp announcing our arrival in song. An unforgettable sound. An unforgettable welcome.

    Cheetah in Botswana

    Botswana: Life in the wild

    Throughout our three-day and six-game drives in Botswana, we are treated to one magical experience after another. We track a cheetah at sunrise and watch a pride of lions devour a cape buffalo.

    Cheetah at sunrise

    The next day, we catch a solitary elephant off guard as we barrel past it in our jeep en route to a possible leopard sighting. Quite disturbed, and rightly so, he bucks and trumpets in annoyance.

     Elephants in the fields

    Later that evening, we nearly crossed paths with a hungry hyena on our way back to our tent. As is required at night, we are with a guide. However, I’m slightly uneasy after being told that Botswana guides carry no weapons. They depend solely upon their skills to read the animal’s movements to keep guests safe. I tell myself to trust the system and, more importantly, the guides.

    Botswana’s Foster, the all-knowing guide

    Our soft-spoken, omniscient, gentle guide is named Foster. Without a doubt, Foster is one of the highlights of our Botswana journey. Foster knows the Delta like the back of his hand. He knows where we can safely cross the Okavango based on rainfall, vehicle type, and time of day.

    Foster knows just where to go ‘off-road’, and dive head-on into a wild patch of sage or scrub, to find a leopard lounging on a tree limb. He often yells out, ‘Hold on tight!’, and we do. It’s exhilarating.

    The wake-ups in Botswana are early. Our tween daughter is not amused again, complaining about waking up while it’s still dark. Sensing her pre-dawn dismay, Foster poses a question in his soothing and low baritone voice. ’Ella, what is the purpose of this day?” An interesting conversation between them follows. The sun rises and reveals the animals at their most active times. The early wake-up is quickly forgotten.

    Southern Pride of Botswana

    One afternoon, we come upon a pride of lions, the Southern Pride, as they are locally known. Foster kills the engine, and we spend a few hours observing them. The big cats laze about, yawn, and tend to their young.

    The cubs frolic in their happy and utterly carefree existence. A few times, the lions find shade in the shadow of our open Land Rover — an unnerving and utterly silent experience. As mentioned earlier, Foster was without a weapon. I repeat my mantra—trust the guides- as I pull my son tighter towards me. Lion by safari vehicle

    We are all holding our breath. In a low whisper, I lean in and ask Foster how he’s sure the lions won’t attack. They are curious and within two feet of us. There are no windows or barriers between us.

    Speaking softly and without taking his eyes from the lion’s face, he says he can read their movements. That he can sense agitation or contentment by the twitch of an eye. His concentration is absolute. I believe him. Do I have a choice? We later discover that Foster has not only been an experienced guide for many decades but was given the high honor of taking the president of his country on a safari.

    Do I trust him? Implicitly.

     Selinda Camp common areas and pool

    Camp Life, Botswana

    Our tent at Selinda is rustic-chic and luxurious. It dons safari-style campaign furniture originally designed to be folded up and transported distances. It looked like a window display for the Louis Vuitton showroom in NYC.

    Selinda Camp tent

    No detail is too small to be overlooked. Yoga mats sit in a basket beside the door. Powerful binoculars sit by the bed. A beautifully crafted vintage liquor cabinet is stocked with port, bourbon, and whisky. Etched crystal glasses and a bucket of ice on the ready. There are reading glasses and books for us, watercolors, and sketch pads for the kids. A claw-footed tub and rain shower. All we could want or need.

    We are told that Sydney, the ‘resident’ elephant, enjoys relaxing near our tent. One of my most memorable moments of the trip is hearing her gentle feet padding past our tent in the middle of the night. Her massive body scrapes the soft walls. I want to get out of bed and peek outside, but I’m paralyzed—both terrified and thrilled simultaneously.

    Elephants in the fields

    Botswana’s delta

    The Okavango Delta spans 15,000 square miles, and by August, the water fans out slowly, and sometimes randomly, throughout the southern regions of the delta. Not surprisingly, this often makes crossing it a challenge.

    Leopard in tree Botswana

    There are few bridges, as the water ebbs and flows differently throughout the year. Thankfully, Foster sees the waterways as we would see highways, and navigates with ease.

    Game drive

    Late one afternoon, we stop at the Delta’s edge for a sundowner on our way back to Selinda Camp. The crossing we made in the morning is hours away and in the opposite direction of the camp. “How will we get back?”, our daughter asks. He looked straight ahead and points to the Delta.

    Before we can say another word, he pulls up to the inlet and tells us to raise our feet as high as we can. I wonder if we will have to hold our breath. How does he know there aren’t any hungry hippos lurking below the surface?

    Foster confidently shifts into gear. Moments later, our Land Rover is halfway submerged in the Delta, nearly level with the exhaust pipe that pokes from the front hood like a submarine periscope.

    I pray to the hippo gods that today isn’t our last. Out of the hundreds of small waterways like this, how is he to know how deep this one is? Those few minutes of crossing the Delta may have taken years off my life but it did save us three hours of driving. Trust the guides.

    Gazelles

    Foster’s Surprise

    With a heavy heart, we find ourselves on our final night in Botswana. Yet, after a full afternoon’s game drive we are ready to shower off the dust and change for dinner. As we tumble from the jeep, Foster surprises us by saying he has one last thing to show us.

    Lions, cheetahs, leopards, rare birds, hippos, warthogs, and more—what is left to see, I wonder? Trusting Foster one last time, we pile our weary bodies back into the jeep just as the sun is starting its fiery descent.

    White Rhinos

    Twenty minutes of bouncing away from camp, away from a hot shower and food I think sadly. Then my gaze falls upon a distant field of blinking lanterns, which then lead up to a blazing bonfire. An open bar and an enormous communal dining table come into view.

    Sunset dinner

    Hemingway’s Africa

    The entire Selinda Camp staff is there to prepare and enjoy our final dinner with us by candlelight. Wine is free-flowing and the stories from the day’s drive get bigger and more fantastical. Food is in abundance. Music and laughter fill the sky. The guides, staff, and tourists share one last meal together as a group.

    The sun finally disappears behind a row of perfectly placed palm trees, and at that moment I decide I don’t want to go home.

    Hemingway wrote, in his book The Green Hills of Africa, “All I wanted to do was get back to Africa. We had not left it yet, but when I would wake in the night I would lie, listening, homesick for it already.”

    Cheetah at sunrise

    My emotions are captured to perfection. I am already missing the sounds of Africa, the hippos and lions in the distance, the cackle of a hyena, and the scurrying of small animals outside the tent. Going to sleep each night is the final act of an utterly fabulous show. In my tent, I imagine I was not the only one at camp who fought sleep, never wanting it to end.

    Leopard sighting in Botswana