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Hacienda AltaGracia in Costa Rica is the best choice for wellness
Hacienda AltaGracia is the Costa Rican wellness resort everyone is talking about. Never-ending choices of activities and treatments to nourish mind and body in a tropical, fairy-tale setting. THE WELL, Hacienda AltaGracia’s spa, is a sanctuary within a sanctuary. Good luck choosing between wellness experiences, off-property excursions, where to eat, what to eat, or where to lounge.

There are more than enough choices at Hacienda AltaGracia, an Auberge Resort. There just isn’t enough time.

Our twin-engine Cessna glides over the mountainous interior of Costa Rica. It’s 6am. The sun is skimming the tree tops, and a misty translucent glow is rising above them. Clouds are weaving in and out of view. The deafening roar of the engines makes conversation impossible, so my friend and I sit back and soak up the verdant landscape. Thirty minutes later, our plane dips over the Talamanca Mountains toward our destination—a grassy airstrip at the base of Costa Rica’s newest wellness resort, Hacienda AltaGracia.
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Wellness is always trending at Hacienda AltaGracia

Wellness was once a word synonymous with woo-woo. Is it still? These days, I dare you to find a resort that doesn’t have ‘wellness’ listed in its menu bar. Not just for Los Angelenos anymore, wellness is for everyone. Why shouldn’t it be? Taking care of ourselves from the inside out feels good. There are far worse things trending these days. I have teenagers, bad trends appear in my house daily.

Lisa and I are heading to the mother of all wellness resorts—THE WELL in Costa Rica at Hacienda AltaGracia.

THE WELL, Costa Rica

We’ve come to Hacienda AltaGracia exclusively for THE WELL, one of the most recently opened spas to take on wellness and well-being. In addition to this Costa Rica location, THE WELL has multiple locations in Auberge Resorts around the world, including a stand-alone spa in New York City.

THE WELL is known for combining Eastern and Western healing practices, meditation, body treatments, and holistic treatments. It’s quickly becoming one of the world’s most sought-after wellness experiences. Hacienda AltaGracia opened in November 2021 and is leading the wellness way in Costa Rica.

Perched at the highest point of Hacienda AltaGracia’s 180 lush, tropical acres, THE WELL encompasses over 20,000 square feet of naturally lit space. It’s jaw-dropping. I made a point to watch guests enter it for the first time and count gasps. Everyone gasped. Some gasped twice. It’s that impressive.

THE WELL overlooks the Talamanca mountains, a range that contains both Costa Rica and Panama’s highest peaks. Architecturally, the setting not only exudes calm and serenity but intentionally seeks to bring the outdoors in.

Three oversized windowed walls surround an oversized tranquility pool that always mirrors the sky. Two symmetrical square hot tubs flank the pool. This double-tub feature erases the awkwardness of having to make polite hot tub chit-chat with a stranger. I’m a self-proclaimed chit-chatter. But I have two firm exceptions: airplanes and hot tubs.

What exactly does one do at THE WELL?

At the risk of exceeding my self-imposed 2500-word limit, allow me to list some of the many treatments available at THE WELL, Costa Rica. I didn’t have time to partake in all of these treatments, mind you. Even if I did, I wouldn’t have enough money left to cover my cable bill. (That said, many services and treatments are included in the room rate. Yes, that’s 100% true!)

WELL, WELL, WELL

• Join a visiting master for a guided meditation or a breathing session. Book a one-on-one session later to deep dive into your past life or refine your breathing technique.

• Try botanical yoga.

• Connect with your senses by taking a forest and crystal bath (that’s not a typo). Hacienda AltaGracia has a 700-pound crystal quartz on the property where guests can partake in an integrative energy healing session.

• Find a spot on a warm marble slab and take an ethereal lunar gong bath. Later, head back to the spa for a sunset swim or aromatherapy steam.

• Opt for traditional spa treatments: Swedish massage, hot-stone therapy, or cranial massage, for example.

• Push outside of your comfort zone with less-common treatments: Maderoterapia or Wood Therapy is a traditional Central American practice. Or Hierbas y Flores, a nature-infused experience that incorporates native flowers and massage.

This list is by no means complete. Nor, do you have to sign up for any treatments in order to enjoy THE WELL. I spent time there with a book on a lounge chair trying to read. Unfortunately, I was constantly distracted by the surroundings and found myself over-posting on Instagram. This did defeat the concept of relaxation a wee bit. Anything for my followers!

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THE WELL has more choices than my cleansed mind can compute. Would I like a light, medium, or heavy cotton waffle robe from The Robe Bar? Would I like my custom clay body mask mixed with parsley, sage, rosemary, or thyme? Choice—the wellness luxury that just might ruin my wellness experience. Once I accept that there are only good choices, I calm down.

Beyond THE WELL at Hacienda AltaGracia

Wellness is not limited to treatments at Hacienda AltaGracia. Wellness is slow-cooked oat and quinoa porridge with local honeycomb, berries, and cocoa nibs while watching a charm of hummingbirds. It’s self-guided yoga on our expansive villa deck, listening to frogs croak. Wellness is my morning green juice from Mercado and my evening cocktail at the bar.

Since this is Lisa’s second visit to Hacienda AltaGracia, she takes over the trip’s itinerary. As much as I love to plan, having someone whose travel sensibilities I trust to do it for me is a welcome change. (For the record, I trust my husband’s travel spidey-sense too—in case he reads this and feels slighted.)

A Bath upon Arrival

After landing, we head directly to Mercado—the most non-lobby resort lobby I’ve yet to see. Mercado is part of a highly curated boutique and part of the Friends-style Central Perk. The café has homemade pastries, specialty coffee, juices, quiche, and other baked goods available all day at no cost. Lisa discovers her love of sparkling espresso while I devour cookies like a greedy toddler.

We are gently whisked from Mercado to one of the property’s signature treatments: The River Bath, an immersive outdoor nature-filled experience. An overgrown flower-filled path leads to a warm stone-edged plunge pool beside a cool stone-edged river. Over two hours, we toggle back and forth between the two, looking to cleanse our auras as the treatment advertises. Butterflies surround us. We slot into their habitat with ease.

Wellness, as a travel trend, isn’t limited to people who are fully invested in mindfulness and meditation. It’s good old-fashioned well-being. Resorts like Hacienda AltaGracia appeal to everyone from yogi masters to once-a-year meditators. How you spend time at this tropical Costa Rica wellness resort is your choice. And choices abound.

Over four days, Lisa and I find that critical balance of physical activity, mindfulness, and relaxation. Oh, and eating. That activity is not quite as balanced as the others. At Hacienda AltaGracia, all food is included in the room rate, so we choose to consume everything the menus offer. Cold-marinated Pacific prawns or prawn-filled blue corn tortillas? Both, please. And throw in an order of tuna tiradito, pan-fried line fish, and beef empanadas, if you don’t mind. They don’t mind.

Difficult choices at Hacienda AltaGracia

There are multiple places to dine and drink throughout the property. Grano is the main restaurant with both indoor and outdoor options that are equally inviting. El Cultivo, just beside Grano, is Hacienda AltaGracia’s organic garden. Lunch is served at Las Brisas, one of two open-air poolside restaurants. The food is healthy, but not the tasteless calorie-limited kind of healthy generally associated with spa trips.

I can anticipate the next question. Yes, they serve alcohol at Hacienda AltaGracia! I say this for those who hear the words ‘wellness resort’ and assume they’ll have to smuggle in alcohol.

Wait, you’ve never done that? Me neither.

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For horse lovers only

I’ve never been a horse person. But Hacienda AltaGracia has quite a set-up for those who are. If you don’t like horses, skip ahead. I don’t mind.

Hacienda AltaGracia’s traditional horse show and dinner, Cienfuegos, is an ongoing event at their modern-designed stables. The 42 Peruvian, Spanish, and Costa Rican horses are living their best lives, and they look like they know it.

Lanterns and fire pits are among the sole sources of light. A band of musicians performs low-key background music. After an hour of cocktails and polite chit-chat (a totally acceptable time for chit-chat) at the immaculate stables, we enter the barn and are seated communally for a family-style dinner. Roasted meats, salads, and veggies prepared Costa Rican style keep us satiated. Wine is poured, and the horse show begins.

The riders entertain the crowd with their control of prancing horses. The atmosphere gets livelier with each round of performances (enhanced by each round of drinks). It’s a festive peek into Costa Rican equestrian tradition. Afterward, we take a golf cart back to the villa to dream of horses. Not me, mind you, but I’m sure many people did.

It sounds cheesy, right? But it’s actually totally fun and festive.

Early Mornings at Hacienda AltaGracia

Lisa organized two super early off-property activities so that we could eat the rest of the day without guilt. I despise early wake-ups. Lisa loves them. It’s surprising we are friends. That said, once I was up (and caffeinated), my anger disappeared. Almost.

Rising before the sun has its pluses. Like seeing the sunrise, for one! Another is the early morning sounds and stillness of nature. One morning we take a 7-mile hike to Roca de Nubes and spot a troop of elusive spider monkeys. Wildlife—another plus of early rising.

The following day we hike to a series of three gushing waterfalls. Our guide asks us to choose (again with the choices!) which one we’d like to swim beneath. The answer for me is none. I may have taken the polar plunge in Antarctica earlier this year, but take my word on this, the water in Costa Rica is much colder. Lisa fully embraces the invigorating experience while I merely dip my toes like the water wimp that I am.

Welcome to the jungle

I take a look around. The landscape around Hacienda AltaGracia is rich in texture. Layers upon layers of prehistorically oversized leaves with stencil-like cutouts, palms, ferns, and fruit-filled banana trees. Dramatic low-hanging clouds drape the Talamanca mountains in the distance. Swallow-tailed Kites soar. As the sun descends, the vegetation takes on a warm hue. What was initially shades of green now appear orange, yellow, and red.

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Villa Life at Hacienda AltaGracia

Hacienda AltaGracia’s 50 villas are built into the Costa Rican jungle—seemingly absorbed by it. This makes it feel like a private, remote hideaway. The property is so lovingly nestled in the jungle that the wildlife doesn’t even seem to notice. Hawks swoop overhead and kaleidoscopic-colored butterflies swirl around us.

Our villa’s veranda has a heated plunge pool that overlooks mountainous layers in the distance. Because Lisa wakes up at 4am she always gets to the daybed first. I forgive her.

The living space is lounge-y and inviting, with stacked coffee table books, cushy throws, binoculars, and birding books for bird nerds like me. It has a walk-in closet larger than my first apartment in NYC and a full bar for us to pour drinks as needed. Heated water bottles magically appear tucked under the covers of the beds each evening. If the villa is designed to keep us there, we fail miserably. There is just too much to do.

At Hacienda AltaGracia, it’s your vacation, your choice

On our last night, we have drinks on Grano’s patio with Valerie, one of the visiting wellness masters. Her inherent sense of humor and lightness takes the edge off the woo-woo. We gather around the fire pit at sunset for a release-burning ceremony.

It’s an opportunity to rid ourselves of ‘something that no longer serves us’ by throwing a personal note into the flames. A few husbands attempt to escape, but Valerie lures them back. One by one we throw our paper into the fire and watch it burn. With clear minds and empty stomachs, we head in for dinner.

You don’t have to be a life coach, herbalist, spiritual influencer, or accomplished sound bather in order to have a restorative experience at Hacienda AltaGracia. Everyone can use a few days to reset, recharge, and reload. Whatever your vacation is calling for, there are opportunities to fulfill it at Hacienda AltaGracia. The choices are annoyingly endless.

Well-being and wellness go hand in hand. I can’t think of a better trend to embrace. And you need not go to a luxurious tropical jungle resort in the heart of Costa Rica to do it.

But should you have the choice, it’s certainly a lot more fun.

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Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.
October 5, 2023
Enchanted. Why Mii Amo is the best Sedona spa.

Mother/Daughter Adventures at the Best Sedona Spa

Air is air. Of course, it can be humid, dry, or wet. It can be conditioned or heated, still or sticky—the adjectives are endless. When I visited the Mii Amo spa in Sedona, I looked for words to describe the air. How did it feel? Neither crisp, nor brisk, nor thin, nor heavy. Then, it dawned on me. I wasn’t feeling anything. The air was imperceptible.

The beauty of not noticing the air is that my other senses are on much higher alert. Sounds become more pronounced, and colors more intense. Brilliant mesas and red rocks define the landscape of Sedona, which is about an hour-long drive from Scottsdale.

Along the drive to our Sedona resort and spa, Southern Arizona’s ubiquitous pale green Saguaro cacti were replaced by other shades of green. Prickly Pear cacti, cypress, sycamore, pine, and juniper trees took over the landscape. It was an arboreal introduction to the Sonoran Desert—our destination for the next few days—a Sedona spa tucked away in the desert wilderness.

Spa-bound, in Sedona

My mom, sister, and I were headed to Mii Amo, a resort and spa part of The Enchantment Resort in Sedona, Arizona. This gorgeous Sedona spa was awarded the #1 Best Destination Spa in the US for the second year in a row by Travel + Leisure Magazine. This coveted spa experience has the added luxury of being situated in one of the most alluring spots in the United States.

The famous ‘Red Rocks’ of Sedona surround Mii Amo. The resort and spa sit at an altitude of 4500 feet and are low in profile—nearly hidden in the Upper Sonoran Desert. It’s as if Arizona gave every architect in Sedona the same Benjamin Moore paint chips and said, ‘Please conform to the colors of the desert.’

Sedona’s Color and Light

Burnt reds, persimmons, ochres, and every shade of warmth in between live in Sedona, Arizona. But what makes the desert even more interesting are the clusters of unexpected and brazen greens. Sedona’s Verde Valley, or Green Valley, is named after the copper that was once mined in the area. The bold greens are a spectacular addition— an unanticipated contrast to the sun-lit rocks throughout the day.

The canyon walls are hundreds of millions of years of age. And comprised of nine staggering layers of stone. The receding oceans created the canyons. The result? Rock formations are a natural, visual wonderland. You need not be a geologist to appreciate the striations and layers of color and rock on museum-like display. Limestone, sandstone, and mud, among other elements, have made this piece of Arizona a literal hot spot.

As the light and shadows changed, I prepared to see something new emerge every hour. The mountain views never disappoint, whether with partly cloudy skies, cloudy skies, or full sun.

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Sedona’s Vistas, views, and Vortexes

Mii Amo means ‘one’s path or journey’. Feeling grateful to be guests at the best spa in Sedona, we decided to get started on that journey right away. My sister and I hiked to Vista Point around 6pm on our first evening in Sedona.

As an added convenience, guests can access many hiking paths from the property itself. The sun was already dipping towards the west. And our short hike to the viewpoint took about 20 minutes via a well-beaten red dirt path. We were told to look for a tree hugging itself,’ as that was a known vortex site. Upon reaching the point, however, it looked like every gnarled and twisted juniper was hugging itself.

The entire area is thought to be a vortex. A vortex is a swirling center of energy that many believe has healing and spiritual powers. Not one to deny an area of its spiritual power, I sat against a rock and decided to channel some positive energy.

Piles of delicate toppling rock cairns dotted the point, each one quietly declaring, ‘I was here!’. The silence was all-encompassing—a drastic change from my daily life in DC.

Desert Life at Sedona’s Best Spa

The setting sun was piercing and lit the upper third of the mountain range on fire. Whether or not one believes in the healing powers of the vortexes (or vortices, as I’ve recently learned), it was impossible not to feel inspired and restored there— the views were unparalleled.

I enjoyed it so much that I returned each day at different times. Once, I ventured out as early as 5am to catch sight of the hot air balloons that hovered over the distant mesa.

I was on high alert, ready to walk into a herd (aka squadron) of wild javelinas as I had done with my sister on our first hike. Rodent or pig? Neither, surprisingly. They are just strange 60-pound hairy mammals that roam the area.

I was reminded of the ROUS (Rodents Of Unusual Size) from the film The Princess Bride. Luckily, javelinas aren’t smart and have poor eyesight. Needless to say, I made it back to the resort unharmed.

Despite that encounter, my sister and I returned the next day. This time, our efforts were rewarded by finding a solo flutist upon a tall red rock. We were told he plays there often. However, we counted ourselves lucky to catch a performance. His ethereal music caught the wind and soared across the valley. It was mesmerizing.

Coffee Pot and other rocks around Sedona

Another day, we hired a local guide, an Apache Native American, and explored for a few hours. He was a proud man, a bit gruff, but very knowledgeable about the area.

From George, we learned to differentiate between the Prickly Pear and Agave plants. We learned how to loosen the nut from the cone of a pinola tree. And the different mating calls of the male quail. Our three-mile hike brought us past Coffee Pot and other luminous rock formations. We paused at an ancient birthing place and reflected on the size of the canyons around us.

A Peek Inside The Best Spa In Sedona

Sixteen casitas, some with hot tubs and indoor and outdoor fireplaces, are offered at Mii Amo. There’s a small juice bar, a café, a boutique, indoor/outdoor pools, and a gym. And, of course, the highly-regarded spa treatment area. The spa experience at Mii Amo is small and intimate. While the spa is only a short walk from Enchantment (its larger, family-friendly sibling), this Sedona spa feels a world away.

The rooms were clean and modern but felt dated and needed a facelift. Soon, a complete overhaul is expected to be revealed. Watch this space.

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Spa food reframed

The food at the café exceeded our expectations. For me, the inherent nature of ‘spa food’ has been synonymous with being tasteless. I was proven wrong at Mii Amo. Unsurprisingly, the best spa in Sedona would also have the best spa food.

Spinach, mushroom, and tomato frittatas. Almond chickpea pancakes with lemon ricotta, berries, and prickly pear syrup. Welcome to breakfast! A hearty but healthy way to get my day started. While caffeine and alcohol might be against the rules for some spas, they were readily available to the spa-goers of Mii Amo. I am not one of those people who can start my day without a kick of caffeine. Thank you, Mii Amo.

At This Sedona Spa, Three’s a charm

The front entrance of Mii Amo’s resort and spa is dramatic, with massive rock formations looming above. There is a shaded area of trees that are teeming with hummingbird activity. Attracted by the hanging feeders, I was told that at any given time of day, I would see at least a ‘charm’ of hummingbirds jostling for nectar.

Just a few steps beyond the entry, the Crystal Grotto is a small, cave-like room with a round opening to the sky. Here, one can sit peacefully in thought or be led in meditation by a guide.

Wanting to take advantage of the enchanting Sedona vibes, I went in a few times to enjoy the comforting sound of running water. Anytime I could find a moment of restoration or calm I was up for it, this was part of the reason I was here, after all.

The Sedona Spa: Juice life

At Mii Amo, our hardest daily decision was deciding which smoothie or juice to try. A rough life in the desert, for sure! My favorites were the Maca Smoothie (banana, almond butter, maca powder) and Renew Juice (rhubarb, strawberry, lime). A hint of jasmine permeated the air. And low enough to barely register was the sound of ethereal spa music.

The pool staff remembered our names and our favorite juices. They even reserved the loungers we preferred from the previous day. One especially thoughtful staff member made us feel like he’d known us for years. It was an impressive point of differentiation in the ever-demanding one-upmanship of the resort and spa industry.

The Best Spa In Sedona Exceeds Expectations

Depending upon your perspective, the variety of spa treatments and spa experiences at Mii Amo ranged from traditional to off-the-wall. I experimented with less traditional treatments like ‘Energy Clearing’ and ‘Past-Life Regression.’ I also tried several spa experience staples like a Shiatsu Massage and a Clay Wrap.

Our three-day package included six spa treatments during our stay (two 90-minute and four 60-minute). Sitting in the spa’s waiting room, we would meet people from all over the country. Many had been to Mii Amo more than once, and quite a few from Europe and beyond.

The spa staff had a warmth and genuine love of their craft. Each spa treatment opened my mind to new ways of seeing and listening. And each was as relaxing as I’d hoped. My mom, sister, and I all agreed that the spa treatments were restorative in multiple ways. Ways that I wish I could reproduce in my ‘real life.’

Experience the ethereal side of Sedona with this hidden gem: A Spiritual Vortex Tour

Beyond Mii Amo

After three days at the spa, we spent a few nights at the neighboring Enchantment Resort. We sat by the pool, enjoyed the spectacular views, and headed off-property for some sightseeing.

One highlight was the Chapel of the Holy Cross. An earth-toned and delicate chapel that looks as if it is hovering on the edge of a butte. Inspired by the Empire State Building in the 1930s, it was finally completed in 1957. Picturesque from every angle, the central cross of the chapel’s exterior dives directly into the red rocks.

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The best places to dine in Sedona

We chose our one dinner away from Enchantment with care. A friend had recommended Mariposa. We were lucky to get a coveted reservation on the patio at sunset.

The views and setting were magical, with fire-lit iron globes flanking the entrance. Many diners left their tables mid-meal (me included) to capture the colors in the sky. From what I remember, the food was good, but not the main reason for heading to Mariposa. That said, I would head back any day to watch the sky perform.

While we only had one dinner beyond Mii Amo’s sacred grounds, many other places in Sedona will wow visitors with views and fabulous food. Cress on Oak Creek is in the luxurious hotel Auberge de Sedona. Whether one chooses to dine inside or out, the creekside views are ever-romantic.

Elote is an award-winning modern Mexican restaurant that gets accolades from tourists and locals alike. With locally sourced ingredients and a lively atmosphere, Elote is a must-eat spot while visiting Sedona. Don’t miss the divine corn bisque, a menu highlight.

Tortas de Fuego is a brightly-lit Mexican eatery that specializes in (you know it, tortas). Also known for its burritos and nachos, no one will go home hungry after a meal in one of Sedona’s most popular jaunts.

One last hike at Sedona’s best spa

On my final morning, I took one last vista hike and decided to head out without a camera. I was afraid I would regret not having the chance to capture something that had eluded me before. For almost an hour, I sat in the shade, watching the sun creep along the edge of the rock formations. Was the light creating the character of the mountains or simply revealing it? Without the distraction of a camera, I was fully present in nature and lost in thought.

I’m not sure why I’m surprised that I was less distracted looking at the mountains with my eyes vs through a lens. But it was one of my favorite moments of the trip.

A few days after returning home from Sedona, I was listening to a podcast by Elizabeth Gilbert, the author of Eat, Pray Love. She confessed, “I prefer to live in an enchanted world.” A world where even the air is enchanted?

Well said, Ms. Gilbert. I’m right there with you.

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Author’s Note: The spa at Mii Amo re-opened after a full renovation. It looks spectacular. I am hoping to go next year.

July 10, 2023
5 of the best unforgettable and over-the-top travel experiences

Vacation, as the dictionary states, is ‘an extended period of leisure and recreation, especially one spent away from home or in traveling.’ Most of us are long overdue. So, when that much-needed vacation finally comes, make it an unforgettable travel experience. Read on for some much-needed travel inspiration.

Travel, whether I like to admit it or not, comes with a certain amount of expectation. I might say, “Oh, I’m happy at any beach, as long as I can relax with a book,” or “I don’t care about the hotel room, I’ll be outside most of the day anyway.” Or even, “The service isn’t that important as long as the food is really good.”

But, in reality, I care. A lot.

Relaxing on a beach with soft sand underfoot is lovely, as long as it isn’t facing an off-shore power plant. I would prefer not to stare at a construction site from my hotel room, regardless of how little time I spend in it. And, service does matter, especially when my room key decides not to work at midnight.

Yes, I have expectations. So, what happens when already high expectations are exceeded? When what I already imagine will be great—is even greater? Those unforgettable moments, while few and far between, are the ones I relive time and again. These are my top five.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 5 / Helicopter Sundowner: Amangiri, Utah

Amangiri is a resort tucked away along the southern border of Utah, where it meets Arizona. As with many Aman properties, Amangiri is small, and a challenge to find, which adds a level of exclusivity that attracts many luxuries, adventure travelers. Their excursions are equally exclusive and unique.

One such excursion presented to us while there, was the chance to watch the sunset over the Utah desert. That’s not terribly unique, one might think. How about watching the sunset, with a bottle of chilled champagne, from the top of an isolated butte, via helicopter? Now that’s more like it.

We spied on the desert from above, the blades of the helicopter sliced the dry air, and made the trip worthwhile from lift-off. The pilot steered us towards Glen Canyon Dam, and then Horseshoe Bend, the iconic shape of the landscape giving credence to its name.

From this vantage point, hovering over the deep canyon, I could see the striations of rock that had formed over millions of years.

We landed on a nearby towering butte, the flat top was an ideal place for the pilot to set up our champagne sundowner.

The terrain was a sea of gold, the rich mesas, and distant buttes picked up the colors from the sun, and the sky dissolved into moody shades of blue. From our aerie, champagne in hand, and no sound aside from the whirling wind, the world stood still.

Despite the high price tag of the excursion, I had no regrets. Even years later, it is one of the most unforgettable travel moments in my memory. And while my husband might disagree, who can put a price tag on that?

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 4 / Sound bath: Blackberry mountain, Tennessee

More than ever, wellness activities have emerged as daily essentials. Whether a 10-minute morning meditation, a mid-day walk, or a late afternoon restorative yoga session, wellness is more mainstream than ever.

In the past, I had tried a few sound bath experiences from my phone, mainly to help me relax before bed. I was curious to try one in person. So when a girlfriend and I decided to take a trip to Blackberry Mountain, we signed up right away.

Our instructor’s voice had a lulling cadence. He introduced us to the practice of sound bathing, which has nothing, incidentally, to do with bathing, or water. The room had high ceilings, and was drenched in creamy, warm light. He was surrounded by a multitude of instruments; gongs, rainmakers, and chimes, among them. A lovely setting in which to spend the next 90 minutes.

Six of us formed a wide semi-circle on the floor and draped ourselves in soft blankets. The instructor then placed a lightly scented lavender cloth over our eyes. Just five minutes in, and I thought that this was already exceeding my expectations.

The senses in my body awakened, and I melted into the sounds. The gongs overlapped the chimes. The chimes overlapped the rainmaker, which sounded like waves crashing onto a beach. First softly, then gaining power, before receding again. I fell asleep, I think. Then awoke to tuning forks in G major, chants, and quite a few unnameable sounds. The vibrations of those sounds lifted and settled within me, as I drifted in and out of a dream-like state.

Towards the end of the sound bath, the group was asked to slowly sit up. I reluctantly followed orders. The gauzy roller shades had been raised, the curtains drawn—had I even noticed them earlier?

I found myself facing purple mountains— the start of sunset. The ridge was razor sharp, and pink and orange hues were just beginning to appear behind it. I smiled. Then I wondered when I could do the whole thing all over again. One reason, of many, to return to Blackberry Mountain.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 3 / Berber Tea ceremony: Atlas Mountains, Morocco

An hour’s drive, and yet a thousand miles away from bustling Marrakech, are the mesmerizing Atlas Mountains. We were on our way to Kasbah Bab Ourika, a rustic oasis nestled gently in the mountains.

A holiday at a kasbah feels intimate and secluded, the only sounds coming from the birds whizzing overhead, and the light rustling of leaves. Meals are served al fresco, with miles of the scenic landscape at which to gaze. While we were hard-pressed to leave the grounds, we knew the mountains had much to offer in the way of adventure.

One misty morning, we set out on a two-hour guided trek toward a Berber village. The Berbers, an ethnic group native to Northern Africa, have a history that dates back to medieval times. The language and culture of the Berbers are still thriving in many parts of Morocco, specifically in the Atlas Mountains.

En route to the village, we passed a herd of woolly sheep and abandoned homes overrun with fields of yellow wildflowers. There were no roads, only donkey tracks, and the occasional moped.

Our guide brought us to a village home where we were taught the ceremonial process of making Berber mint tea.

The matriarch of the family showed us her technique, which involved a series of constant pouring and re-pouring. First, she placed the tea leaves into the pot and added boiling water. She swirled to warm the pot, and then rinsed the tea leaves. Next, she strained the water, reserving only the leaves.

She then added more hot water and allowed it to steep for a few minutes while we chatted—our guide acting as translator. Lastly, sprigs of mint, and a touch of sugar, were added to the teapot. We were honored and humbled by the chance to take part in a small piece of traditional Berber life. I will likely never have a mint tea experience that compares.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 2 / Hammam Spa: The Royal Mansour, Morocco

A hammam, or Turkish bath, is a centuries-old, traditional, Arabic cleansing and bathing ritual. Modern variations of hammam can be found at hotels, resorts, and spas throughout Northern Africa and the Middle East.

Meant to boost the immune system, a hammam treatment uses hot steam to dilate blood vessels, and increase circulation throughout the body. Pores are opened, toxins are released, and the body is immediately refreshed. This sounded intriguing, and unlike any therapeutic treatment, I’d had in the past.

I decided to visit the spa at The Royal Mansour Hotel, in Marrakech, to experience the hammam. I was told that their interpretation of it was one of the best in the city. Marrakech was aglow with high-density, prismatic, and outrageous color, but the spa at the Royal Mansour was decidedly the total absence of it.

I opened the oversized spa door and entered a world of polar white—a jarring contrast from the green gardens I had just left behind. Vaulted cathedral ceilings, a fountain overflowing with white roses, and pale, pastel couches—all within a room of white, wrought iron, latticework. It was ethereal.

Following a short respite on a daybed in the spa’s waiting area, I was summoned by the therapist. She asked me to lie down upon a hot stone platform in a cavernous, marbled, and windowless room. I happily obliged, and put my 21st-century cares behind me, relishing this 8th-century bathing ritual.

A fragrant steam surrounded me, as the therapist scrubbed off layers of unwanted skin with a special black soap, and an abrasive Kessa mitt. It was harsh, and made my eyes water, but was surprisingly invigorating.

Next, she gently poured, and then shockingly threw, warm water across my body, waking me up in an admittedly unexpected way. She proceeded with a full body massage, using therapeutic oils, in an array of intriguing scents.

Lastly, I was escorted to one last room. Bright light streamed through the window towards an inviting, private, plunge pool. Much to my immediate dismay, I discovered it was actually an ice bath. She asked me to immerse myself in the frigid water. While I was initially reluctant, I knew this eye-popping part of the treatment was meant to invigorate my skin, which after 90 minutes of pampering, felt as silky as a newborn baby’s.

Hammam is an experience that is likely not everyone’s cup of tea, given its unconventionality. For me, however, it was all a part of the African adventure. No regrets, Marrakech.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 1 / Dinner on the Delta, Botswana

There are few places in my travels that have moved me as much as Africa. I am a wildlife junkie and love any opportunity to see animals in the wild. It is no surprise that Africa, and Botswana in particular, would take up such significant space in my travel memories.

After three days of game drives along the Okavango Delta, we thought we had seen it all. Lions, leopards, hippos, and elephants, filled our days and invaded our dreams.

At the end of our last day in Botswana, Foster, our gentle and soft-spoken guide, took us back to our camp so that we could change for dinner. As we climbed out of the dust-covered Land Rover, our safari-weary bodies in need of a hot shower, Foster told us he had one last thing to show us.

My interest was piqued, but my body was shattered. In keeping with my ‘no regrets’ attitude, I climbed back into the Rover and rallied. We bumped along the bush for twenty minutes or so, getting farther and farther from camp, (and a hot shower). The sun was just starting to descend.

We curved around a thicket of trees, startling a few baboons along the way when I spotted something unusual. Not more wildlife, something entirely unexpected.

Miles from civilization, miles from our camp, in the middle of the African bush, was a full-blown, pop-up dinner. A top-shelf bar was created around an ancient tree. A roaring bonfire mimicked the palette of the setting sun and was surrounded by chairs and blankets. A communal dining table set for twenty, and a lantern-lit pathway towards a fully functioning bathroom.

Dinner was being prepared by cooks over open fires, and multiple mouth-watering aromas wafted through the air. I fleetingly wondered if the lions would find the smells as enticing as I did. We were awestruck.

The entire staff of our tent camp, plus the other guests, were treated to a fully-catered dinner in the bush. We sat for hours, eating and drinking, sharing and comparing stories of the day. We replayed our magical moments in the delta.

The low trumpets of elephants, and snorting grunts of hippos in the distance, were the musical soundtrack. With no one manning the camp, I wondered if the cheeky, resident, vervet monkeys were having a party. Botswana—I hadn’t even left, but I was already missing it.

Experience matters

We live in a world of bells, beeps, whistles, tones, and chimes—mostly coming from phones and screens. Our lives are filled with constant noise which interferes with our ability to relax and have calm.

The sounds from these five experiences; the chimes of the sound bath, the wind whistling past us on a remote butte, and the trumpeting of distant elephants, were the antithesis of my normal cacophony. I embraced the sounds of these once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Unforgettable.

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Find your next over-the-top travel experience:

Take a lap of luxurious Lake Como, or just soak up the sun, in Italy.

Tackle the Tetons of Wyoming this summer, with Amangani as your base.

Set your sails on Croatia, and the Dalmatian Coast, by private charter.

March 9, 2021

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