I love to ski in Stowe. Ummm, let me rephrase that. I love to ski in Stowe when the sky is cloudless, cobalt blue, and the temperature is firmly north of 32 degrees. I love to ski when the slopes are blanketed in fresh powder and are crowd-free. Because I despise early wake-ups, I usually don’t hit the slopes until 9am. Then, I only ski until lunch because once I’ve devoured a cheeseburger and fries, I’m as active as a lioness after a kill.
You can probably guess how often I ski.
Undeniably, Stowe is a spectacular ski and snowboard destination. But non-skiers can still enjoy a winter holiday there. I’ve been visiting Stowe since 1984 and can vouch for activities beyond Mt. Mansfield’s double-black diamonds. Back then, I was a reluctant skier who only cared about cute ski outfits and hot ski instructors.
If you are your family’s most reluctant skier, let me acquaint you with Stowe’s other winter charms. There’s more to this Vermont village than meets the eye.
Why Stowe?
Stowe today isn’t much different from it was 40 years ago. Many of the shops, inns, and restaurants that I recall from my teen years remain. Bear Pond Books, Shaw’s General Store, and the Green Mountain Inn are just a few places that have stood the test of time. That Stowe has been able to retain its old-world sensibility is one reason why I come back each year. The fact that ghastly neon signs are banned is another.
But there’s more.
Stowe is a jewel-toned destination nearly year-round. In the summer, emerald green hills layer against sapphire blue skies. In autumn, throngs of leaf-peepers descend upon the town for ruby-red, topaz, and gold-tinged foliage.
By winter, those vivid colors disappear, muting the landscape. Yet, beauty abounds even on days when the snow isn’t glistening like diamonds. Morning fog rolls over the mountains, then slowly lifts as the sun ekes through. In the late afternoon, the sun descends behind the peaks and humps—leaving lavender and pink skies in its wake.
Stowe, a brief history
I wasn’t keen on history in high school so I promise to only bore you briefly with it here. Stowe was chartered in 1763, but its first settlers didn’t arrive until 30 years later. Back then, Stowe’s population totaled 316 people and 8,000 grazing sheep. You don’t need a statistics degree to figure out that the farming industry dominated Stowe’s early years. However, Stowe became a popular summer resort destination by the mid-nineteenth century due to its evergreen mountains and scenic terrain.
In 1921, Stowe hosted its first Winter Carnival, thus putting it squarely on the map as a cold-weather hot spot. Ski tracks were cleared, trails were added, and tourists began to arrive en masse. Before you could say baaaaa, Stowe became the ‘Ski Capital of the East.’
Beyond the slopes in Stowe, Vermont
Despite its history, don’t be fooled into thinking that skiing monopolizes winter in Stowe. This picturesque village aims to please all. I recently spent 12 days in Stowe—only two of which had skis attached to my feet.
What did I do for the other ten days? And what could I have done if I weren’t so content sitting fireside with my Johanna Basford coloring books? Read on for three days of inspiration.
Stowe Inspiration: Day One
A beautiful sunrise is one of the few things that gets me out of bed early. And in Stowe, there’s nothing better than watching the sun rise over snow-capped mountains. The landscape is hushed, and the bustle of the day is still hours away. In Stowe, mountain views rule. One of the best places to catch them is along the Stowe Rec Path. With over 5 miles of public paths, visitors can walk, run, or bike—all the while admiring Stowe’s natural beauty.
I enter the Rec Path behind Stowe’s famous white-steepled church, but access points are everywhere. Arched wooden bridges dot the landscape, and I lose myself in the rhythmic sounds of the babbling brook. I take comfort in the fact that bears hibernate and photograph the covered bridge that links Main Street to Mountain Road. It starts to flurry, which adds a bit of whimsy to the bucolic scene.
Insider Tip: For those who love iconic red barns, catch a glimpse of Parker’s Barn before it’s gone. Most of Stowe’s old barns have collapsed over the decades, and Parker’s isn’t far behind. First built in 1875 and located on Weeks Hill Road at Mayo Farm, the fate of this dilapidated structure is in the town’s hands. But for now, you can still take a selfie beside it or capture its beauty with snow-covered fields in the distance. It may not be around the next time you visit.
Coffee Break
Eventually, I get cold. This is winter in Stowe, mind you. So I stumble into my new favorite coffee shop for an oat milk cappuccino. Woodland Baking & Coffee is hard to find, tucked in the far corner of the Baggy Knees Shopping Center—a place I now know of thanks to my new Stowe friend, Emily.
The coffee is crazy good—to use a technical coffee term. But it’s the scent of freshly baked loaves, croissants, and other crumbly, buttery, flaky delights that lure me inside. The ingredients are sourced locally. The crowd is local, too. I hope Emily is still my friend after I’ve told everyone about her secret coffee spot.
Farm Home Obsessed
Stowe has a few lovely interior design shops that make me long for a mountain house to decorate. Farm Home Co.’s showroom is meticulously curated. I covet the hand-woven baskets, especially the ones with a delicate, open, and wavy lip. The piles of patterned vintage kilim pillows, woolen throws, and bleached jute rugs tempt me to give my bedroom a makeover.
Insider Tip: Farm Home Co. has a nearby boutique property accommodating up to ten people. In the heart of town and designed to farm home perfection, this 150-year-old white clapboard gem has family reunion written all over it.
And this one time, at Ranch Camp
All this longing and coveting makes me hungry. So I beeline for Ranch Camp, a bike shop/biker hub/lunch spot perched on Mountain Road. Over 12 days, I ate there five times. Four of those times, I have The Rock, a warm grain bowl filled with black beans, arugula, corn salsa, sliced avo, brown basmati rice, and topped with perfectly grilled chicken. Four out of five times—yes, it’s that good.
A full morning of non-skiing activities and a hearty grain bowl begs for downtime. I head home and begin a Eugene Levy movie marathon: American Pie, Best in Show, and Schitt’s Creek. Right around the time Jim starts stripping, I fall asleep. (If you have no idea what I’m talking about, head to the couch and start streaming American Pie pronto).
For those who prefer the big screen, the Stowe Cinema 3Plex has been in show business since 1972 and serves guests beer and cocktails at their seats. What better way to see the latest Oscar contenders than with a Stowe Cider or Heady Topper in hand?
Insider Tip: A double India Pale Ale, Heady Topper is the 8th-best beer in the world according to Beer Advocate. It’s brewed in Stowe and Waterbury in tiny quantities, which gives it added allure in the craft beer-drinking world. A great place to try one of these famous brews is at The Alchemist, which also gives brewery tours.
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Stowe Inspiration: Day Two
I’m a part-time yogi. Occasionally, I’ll humor my husband and join him for a Warrior 3 or Downward Facing Dog. But no matter how often I practice, I only like the Shavasana part. For real yogis, Peak Yoga is located at The Swimming Hole, a fire-engine-red building just off Weeks Hill Road. A non-profit community pool and athletic center, this local fitness treasure is a hub for yogis and athletes alike.
Insider Tip: The Swimming Hole offers day passes. This means anyone can take advantage of the facility while visiting Stowe. My favorite classes are Yin Yoga and Gentle Flow. Sign up for classes here.
Looking for a small, private group tour of Stowe? Click here!
The Hills Are Alive
One of my favorite Stowe activities is snowshoeing. Anyone imagining unwieldy tennis racket-type snow boot attachments, please join me in the present day. Snowshoes today are high-tech, comfortable, and pretty badass. Click here for proof.
A popular spot to snowshoe and cross-country ski is the Trapp Family Lodge. Yes, the von Trapps of The Sound of Music fame. The von Trapps escaped to Stowe after fleeing Austria in the 1940’s. Their vast hilltop property offers sweeping panoramic views of the Worcester Mountains and has snow-covered fields dotted with herds of endearing Scottish Highland cows.
Insider Tip: If you don’t already own a pair of snowshoes or cross-country skis, it’s a snap to rent them on-site at Trapps. Pinnacle Ski & Sports is another place in town that will take care of all rental equipment needs.
On Main
If you have the energy, wander Stowe’s Main Street. In a word, it’s delightful. I inevitably find myself absorbed in the best-seller section of Bear Pond Books. Beyond books, Bear Pond sells games, puzzles, note cards, and unique gifts. One level below Bear Pond is Stowe Mercantile. With old-fashioned candy jars brimming with jawbreakers, sour balls, and rock candy, the Mercantile is a childhood dream come to life.
Insider Tip: While typically more crowded due to its Main Street location, Black Cap Coffee & Bakery whips up fantastic brews and is set in a historic Vermont building across from the church and community center. Women-owned and run, Black Cap also serves breakfast and lunch.
Off Main
Sometimes, you have to take a few detours to find hidden gems. A few of my favorite places for retail therapy are not on Main Street. At least not anymore. Archery Close has moved to the Mountain Road. And thank god they did. With all this beautiful space to show off their curated collection of emerging designers, I might grab a sleeping bag and move in. Some of my favorite brands live here, like ba&sh, Marine Layer, Faherty, and Amundsen.
Next door, another Stowe essential has taken advantage of more space. Family-owned Commodities Natural Market has specialty groceries, IPAs, Vermont beef, farm-fresh eggs, and about a thousand other things you will want to take home. If you are self-catering at an Airbnb or a rental, you can’t do better than this cozy Chipotle Cheddar beef chili recipe from Half-Baked Harvest (is there nothing a block of cream cheese can’t improve?). You’ll find everything you need to make it (even Gochuchang) at Commodities.
And lastly, don’t leave town without visiting one (or both) of Coco Goose’s Stowe boutiques. From Herno puffers and Veronica Beard blazers to about a hundred styles of denim, Coco Goose knows its audience. Yes, it’s us, the non-skiers of Stowe! The 2038 Mountain Road location is attached to Après, a super cool cocktail and wine bar in an unexpected location. So once you’re shopped out, you can revive with a gin martini. Remember: you don’t need to ski to après!
Grab a Plate
Time for dinner already? Head back to Main Street. Using seasonal ingredients, Plate is a culinary highlight of any trip to Stowe. Its lively and convivial atmosphere keeps diners in place long after the meal has ended. One of my favorite plates at Plate has never left the menu—Vegan ‘Crab Cakes’. Made from hearts of palm and topped with a cashew aioli, it’s one of the restaurant’s most popular starters.
Other temptations at Plate include the Little Leaf Farm Lettuce with grapefruit wedges, maple granola, and avocado and the Grilled Pork Chop with bacon, brussel sprout slaw, and apple butter. Chef Aaron Martin and his wife Jennifer have brilliantly paired a small-town atmosphere with a big-city menu.
Insider Tip: Plate used to be old-school and take dinner reservations by phone only, but are now easily accessed via Open Table. Can’t get a table? Head to the bar instead. First come, first served!
Stowe Inspiration: Day Three
Despite my allergy to early wake-ups, I make exceptions beyond pretty sunrises. Hiking is an activity I enjoy year-round. In Stowe, there are trails to accommodate every fitness level. The Notch is one of the most user-friendly—a 3.5-mile paved pass between Stowe and Cambridge.
During the winter, the road is closed to vehicles due to the steep switchbacks that make navigating dangerous. This annual closure makes it a wonderful place to hike, snowshoe, cross-country ski, or even sled.
Massive boulders and 1,000-foot cliffs give the area a prehistoric air. I wind my way to the top under a canopy of snow-laden firs and paper birch trees. The Notch is an ideal way to burn pre-lunch calories.
Dashing through the snow
Not all outdoor activities in Stowe require elevating heart rates. Topnotch, a high-end hotel, offers festive sleigh rides. Beautiful Edson Hill has an outdoor apres-ski firepit available to guests whether they’ve skied or not. Spruce Peak Village has an ice skating rink, and the landscape offers miles of snowmobiling trails.
Our snowmobiling trip was an unexpected highlight, as I’d rather hunker down with a mug of chamomile tea before a roaring fire with my markers than get on an unwieldy piece of motorized metal in the snow. But the team at Stowe Snowmobile knows exactly what they are doing. After a short indoor video, a short outdoor tutorial, and memorizing the safety mantra, “When in trouble, let go!” I was ready to tackle the trails—all 25 miles of them. It was two of the most fun, snow-filled hours I’ve had in 40 years.
Non-active activities
Stowe is inherently enchanting. I often take a drive in search of the area’s covered bridges. SLR and iPhone in tow, I wind up and around the hills, admiring the mountains as I go.
One bridge worth seeking out is Goldbrook Bridge, aka Emily’s Bridge. Built in 1844, this Howe Truss bridge is said to be haunted by Emily’s ghost. Another is barn red Brookdale Bridge, located at the Rec Path’s end. Photo ops abound in Stowe. Aside from coloring, it’s probably my favorite non-active activity.
Insider Tip: Avoid Main Street, Mountain Road, and Shaw’s Supermarket like the plague starting around 3-4pm. This is when all those hungry skiers and snowboarders leave the mountain en masse—creating traffic havoc and unwieldy check-out lines.
Spa-Bound
Even days when I don’t clock more than 2,000 steps, a winter massage is always welcome. The Spa at Topnotch has treatments to warm guests from the inside out. Take your pick from the extensive menu: Thai, deep tissue, CBD, magnesium, or a side-by-side massage with your partner. With scrubs, facials, peels, and infusions, the Spa at Topnotch is a full-day activity in my book.
Unwind at Cork
Nothing completes my day like a glass of wine. Cork is a wine bar designed for unwinding on a Stowe side street just off Main. Vermont’s first and only natural wine shop and restaurant, its dimly lit atmosphere draws many locals. Small bites like croquettes, baked brie, and focaccia with whipped ricotta pair well with my bold cabernet.
After dinner, I step outside the restaurant and notice the dramatic underlighting of Stowe’s church steeple. A few snowflakes fall, which adds to the setting of the fairy tale. According to the forecast, a storm is on the way. I head home and fall into a deep sleep.
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Let it Snow Stowe
I wake up at 7am and am on the mountain within an hour. It’s 22 degrees, and the skies are a dense, foggy gray. At the Quad’s summit, the visibility is compromised, and snow conditions are frozen granular, at best. More people are flying down Lord and Sunrise than I would like. There isn’t a single hot ski instructor in sight.
It’s epic.
Looking for even more to do in Stowe?
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Heading to Stowe this summer? Click here for three inspirational itineraries!
5 Stowe FAQs:
How do I get to Stowe?
Stowe is about a 45-minute drive from Burlington International Airport (BTV). Fly into Burlington, rent a car, and you’ll be winding through snowy mountain roads in no time.
What’s the population of Stowe?
Just under 6,000 people call Stowe home. Small town. Big personality.
How big is Stowe?
Stowe covers about 72 square miles—about the size of San Francisco, just with more x-country trails and fewer tech bros.
Do I need a car?
Yes. While the main village is walkable, most of Stowe’s best spots—trails, coffee shops, covered bridges—are a short drive away. Having a car is key.
Is Stowe dog-friendly?
Very. You’ll find trails, paths, and even inns that welcome your four-legged BFFs.
Stowe, Vermont Interactive Map
About Mark Vandenberg:
I don’t normally highlight other photographers, but when I find one so clearly superior in their field, I’m all too happy to showcase them. Having discovered his talent for capturing landscapes about 15 years ago, he’s now one of Stowe’s leading fine art photographers.
Follow Mark’s work at www.stowebeautiful.com and on Instagram: @stowebeautiful.
Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.
