Amangiri is one of the most luxurious resorts in the world. Amangiri has won awards for its spectacular pool, its desert location, and over-the-top excursions. Read on for a sneak peek into Utah’s decadent resort, Amangiri. Discover if a vacation in the Utah desert is right for you.
What’s Aman?
Years ago, when we lived in Tokyo, I remember a dinner party where we met a woman named Fang. She’d been an ex-pat in Japan for years. We were fresh off the proverbial boat, trying to make sense of a new and foreign life. After she casually mentioned an upcoming trip to Aman, in Indonesia, we innocently asked, “What’s Aman?”. Cue sardonic laughter, followed by a cryptic smile that implied, ‘If you have to ask, maybe you are at the wrong dinner party’. Fast forward a decade. We have since learned about the inherent draw of Aman, and Amangiri, a luxurious oasis hidden in the Utah desert.
The Aman group of resorts is scattered across the globe. They define a niche of low-key, high-end luxury, unlike much of what is out there, which tends to be either one or the other. Typically in far-flung, remote, and unique destinations, they almost always sit discreetly in their environments. For instance, Amansara, in Cambodia, was the former guest villa of the country’s King Sihanouk.
Many Aman hotels don’t have a signed entrance, which can make them a challenge to find. They rarely, if ever, have a lobby, bellboys, or a front desk. Founded by Indonesian native Adrian Zecha in 1988, Aman now has dozens of boutique properties around the world. Each prides itself on intrinsic beauty, as well as stellar, almost invisible service.
Amangiri is hidden in plain sight
Amangiri, one of only three Aman properties in the continental US, is impossible to spot when viewed from above. In fact, it’s impossible to spot when you are driving, as well. With about 600 acres, it nestles beautifully into the desert landscape. The colors mirror the dusty terrain. Low, flat rooftops quietly conceal the beauty that lies beneath. It’s beautiful from the inside out. Every detail has been thoughtfully decided upon, whether natural or manmade.
Bring the outside in, at Amangiri
Our suite was spacious, strikingly monochromatic, and naturally lit by expansive picture windows. Rooms are mountain-facing so that not a single golden drop of sun is missed throughout the day. The contrast of the warm glow that hovered, and then cooly dropped out of sight, was something to look forward to each evening. With a glass of wine in hand, we had front-row seats for every performance.
Rooms and suites are as natural as the outdoors itself. Stone, wood, and clay describe both the mellow color palette as well as the raw materials. The beds float mid-room, facing the windows so that there is no escape from the elements.
The outside patio had a small fire table to take the chill off the slightly cool summer nights, while we enjoyed sunset cocktails. Nearby, a straw hat and parasol were on hand to shield the all-day rays, a hand-carved walking stick for hikes, as well as state-of-the-art binoculars. Amangiri, you thought of everything. Details rule.
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Amangiri’s Panoramic vistas
The Dining Room and Great Room at Amangiri are open-plan layouts, with panoramic windows that essentially double as a permanent, and ever-changing, art exhibit. As we walked around the common spaces, we took note of local handicrafts, such as geometric-designed hand-woven baskets and pottery.
As ever, coming back to the resort after an invigorating day immersed in nature felt decadent, and our relaxing time ahead felt well-deserved. Four fireplaces, each with comfortable lounge-like seating, were welcoming spots in which to cozy up with a pre-dinner drink. A floor-to-ceiling walnut wine cellar that would make any wine aficionado swoon, was yet another fun place to explore.
The cuisine at Amangiri, given its geographic location, is influenced by Native America. Interesting flavor combinations such as Shrimp and Mesquite Smoked Grits accompanied by Cholla Cactus Bud caught my eye. We experimented with new dishes and flavors daily, and the jovial bartender created cocktails to match our choices.
A large telescope beckoned us from the Great Room’s wide windows so that we could get as up close and personal with the terrain as we wanted. I imagined the interesting wildlife roaming in the distance, the owls burrowing in the rocks, and the critters scuttling quickly across the desert floor.
The ABCs of Amangiri: Adventures, Buttes, and Champagne
Amangiri’s proximity to Lake Powell and Antelope Canyon is a major draw, as they are a launch point for so many interesting adventures. One could easily spend a week and not begin to exhaust the excursions available: hiking the red rocks, crossing the challenging Via Ferrata, and climbing into the slot canyons, to name a few. There is also hot air ballooning, kayaking, and horseback riding. A playground for the adventure junkie and photographer alike.
The innate beauty in this part of Utah conjures up the image of peeling back layers from an onion. Beyond the thick outer layers—climbing and hiking—are the super thin ones. Like discovering owls nesting in the nook of a rock, or starting to notice the subtle difference in colors of the earth beneath our feet. It is those fine layers, the tiny details, that can go on indefinitely here—the corner of the country where Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah intersect.
One afternoon, we boarded a helicopter to see the desert from above and landed atop a nearby butte. Our pilot set up a table and chairs for us to soak up the surroundings over a bottle of chilled champagne. Blue and gold, opposites in the world of color, created a striking scene from our elevated position.
As the sun began to set, we flew over the Glen Canyon Dam, and Horseshoe Bend—its iconic shape giving credence to its name. One highlight among many highlights of the trip.
Amangiri and Utah’s Slot Canyons
It is said that Utah has the most slot canyons of anywhere in the world, and the draw of hiking into these colorful, sunlit, narrow gorges, was a large part of why Utah became our destination of choice.
Our guide was a young, local Native American man, who led us up, over, and around the rock formations, and taught us about the layered sedimentary deposits. At various points, we had to scramble on our hands and knees and suck in our bellies, to access the famous slots.
To say that the colors and striations of the canyons cannot be captured on film is an understatement. A sliver, a piece, or a glimpse can be caught; but to illustrate it in its entirety was impossible, at least by me.
At certain times of day, the sun dived deep into the slots, saturating them, and creating luminescent hues. The rock walls appeared fluid. We crawled through passageways in the formations, watching the colors that ranged from cadmium orange, and burnt orange, to cayenne red, persimmon, and then a rich, moody purple. Other times, looking through the crevices gave the illusion of an orb of fire, rather than permanent rock. As the sun shifted, the once fiery walls smoldered, turning smoky and dark.
Amangiri and Lake Powell
Actually, a man-made reservoir, rather than a lake, Lake Powell added yet a different layer of adventure to our desert holiday. The following morning, we hired a captain, and a boat, and spent the day wake-surfing, waterskiing, and swimming, in Lake Powell’s crips waters. We marveled at the impressive, and incredibly steep canyon walls, and noted the distinct colored patterns that centuries of ever-changing water levels had etched into the earth.
Craggy and textured mountains surrounded the lake and were vibrantly juxtaposed against the cerulean blue sky. Distant buttes dotted the barren landscape, their iconic flat tops cut a unique silhouette. With the water so clear and brilliant, Lake Powell is understandably a favorite destination for houseboats and day trippers. Yet, it didn’t feel busy. In fact, there were moments we were so alone, I felt I had traveled back to prehistoric times.
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Amangiri’s 180 million-year-old rock is a showstopper
After a morning of squeezing through canyons, and tackling the dry, desert heat, it was a gift to return to the resort and know that we didn’t have to leave the property for any reason, for the remainder of the day. As Google had promised in my research, the pool setting at Amangiri was said to be nothing short of awesome. I was excited to fact-check.
Hands down, the most defining element of Amangiri, is its enormous ancient boulder. It has been said that Mr. Zecha used this rock as the centerpiece of the resort’s design, and spent years trying to secure the site, as it was originally nationally owned land. One could argue that it is the oldest piece of original art on the property.
In a feat of design that would make any landscape architect drool, a glorious pool surrounds the boulder. Each platform lounger, with oversized white umbrellas, slices into the pool’s edge, which creates the illusion of personal space. Some days, we felt like we were the only guests there. However, one afternoon, Tom Hanks and his family showed up poolside, and we all did our best to pretend we didn’t recognize him. But even with eyes closed, Tom Hank’s voice is impossible to mistake.
Invisible service at Amangiri
As mentioned earlier, Aman prides itself on nearly invisible service. At Amangiri, they took that sentiment a bit too far, and at times we couldn’t find anyone at all! This was most apparent at the pool when trying to order a drink or a bottle of water, and then later at cocktails. (Although, it didn’t seem like the Hanks family was having similar issues.) When we did find a server, however, they couldn’t have been more friendly or helpful.
In Aman’s defense, it may be hard, in such a quiet, remote part of Utah, to find the level of service they can more easily find at other properties. Nonetheless, I would head back to Amangiri in a heartbeat and forgo any level of service, for the views.
Amangiri means Peaceful Mountain
Amangiri is a feat of form and function. Geometric lines nestle so unobtrusively into the earth—not making much of a ripple from an architectural point of view. There is a reason that Amangiri has been written about endlessly in travel magazines, and is often cited as one of the best hotel settings in the country. The pool is considered one of the most beautiful in the world, thanks to Mr. Zecha’s vision.
A few years ago, Aman revealed a sister property to Amangiri, called Camp Sarika. It’s a private enclave of ten canvas-topped pavilions, each with a private plunge pool, that is set within 600 acres of the property. Aman calls it a back-to-the-wild experience. They call it a meditative sanctuary. Whatever they call it, it’s now top of my wish list.
In Arabic, Amangiri is defined as ‘Peaceful Mountain’. It’s hard to imagine a more fitting name in this stunning part of the United States. When I think back to that long-ago dinner party in Tokyo, now I’m the one smiling. Wherever you are Fang, thank you.
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