Why is Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort, so well-loved? Maybe it’s their prized location, a crescent bay where the Pacific Ocean stretches into the horizon without interruption. Or, the well-appointed ‘hales’ and locally-sourced cuisine. Maybe it’s the staff who welcome every guest with a natural smile. It’s all of that, and more. But what truly sets Kona Village apart is its connection to the past, where the traditions of this former fishing village are literally etched into the island’s volcanic landscape.
We peel off the long, flat highway. The sun is strong and high overhead. It would be simple to say the landscape is black and leave it at that. It’s more than black. It’s layers of charcoal, soot, and smoke. Its textures are made of craggy, cratered, and coarse rocks. Dry grasses struggle to take root in spaces between them, adding a wisp of gold to the otherwise bleak terrain. Petroglyphs scrawled on flat boulders evoke an ancient blackboard. Fields of lava tumble towards the sea, frozen in time.
Beyond the lava fields, palm trees rise like a mirage sprung to life—their green fronds swaying, vibrant and alive against the mighty Pacific. Kona’s history is one of devastation, renewal, and resilience. The energy here feels sacred.
Another left. Then, a long palm tree-lined road leads to Kona Village. A few Premier League hopefuls kick a ball across grass so perfectly green and manicured, I’m convinced it’s fake. Ahead, the Kahuwai Bay comes into view.
The History of Kona Village
Johnno and Helen Jackson happened upon Kahuwai Bay in 1965, arriving on their schooner after sailing the South Pacific. On the site of an abandoned village, they built Kona Village Resort—a secluded retreat that thrived for decades, drawing visitors from around the world to their sliver of Hawaiian paradise.
That is, until March of 2011, when a tsunami ripped through the Big Island of Hawaii, taking Kona Village Resort with it. The land lay barren and vacant, waiting patiently for its next chapter.
Twelve years later, Rosewood recaptures the beauty and traditions of the past and rebuilds Kona Village. It restores the property thoughtfully, with raised hales (thatched Hawaiian huts) that complement the landscape. It brings in local artisans, solar power, and green initiatives. But most importantly, it honors Kona’s history.
Today, village life thrives again in and around the Kahuwai Bay. Whether found in carved stones or imprinted in the dark skies overhead, Kona Village may have been reimagined, but it hasn’t lost its soul.
Setting the Scene(ry) at Rosewood Kona Village
Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort, has 150 villas and suites across 81 lava rock-covered acres. Low-arching bridges connect lagoons. A volcanic mountain range looms in the distance. Despite being the height of spring break, there isn’t a time during our stay that the resort feels overcrowded.
Black-crowned night herons hunch over the lagoon like statues, foraging for frogs and insects. Koloa Maoli ducks glide across the water. A train of baby Francolin follows Mama Francolin, leaving little tracks in the sand. White egrets with golden beaks fly past low palms filled with red-crested cardinals. I geek out with my binoculars, embracing my inner birder with pride.
Complimentary cruising bikes can be found throughout Kona Village. As hard as it is to leave the lagoon, I grab one and start exploring. The resort’s oceanside looks and feels like another planet. Villas on this side of Kona Village have infinity pools and quiet beaches dotted with stone fire pits and sun loungers facing the sea.
The shoreline is encrusted with lava rocks, black sand beaches, arched stone caves, and lava tubes.
The Pacific Ocean crashes violently against the rocks. In the distance, I see Mauna Kea, a volcano that last erupted 4500 years ago. I think it’s due, and only hope this isn’t the week Mother Nature has scheduled her next performance.
It’s wild and untamed. Desolate and raw. Completely unlike my Disney-esque lagoon. I love them both for different reasons.
Lagoon Life
I’d thought long and hard about our room choice at Kona Village. Had we not just spent three nights sea-facing on Maui, I would have most likely chosen an oceanfront villa. Who stays in Hawaii and doesn’t opt for an ocean view?
But the lagoon villa surprises me. The entrance is discreetly tucked away among the flowers and trees. The raised lagoon-facing deck spans the length of the villa, optimal for birding. Wooden slatted walls, a warm, neutral palette, and contemporary decor are a study in timeless understatement. Every book, lamp, and piece of furniture looks hand-picked.
Bowls of ripe fruit, cocktail mixers, and fresh flowers are details worth savoring. The living space is open and airy, and our bathroom has a concrete standalone tub and outdoor shower. It’s twice the size of my first NYC apartment.
This is the magic of Kona. Despite its size, everything feels small, welcoming, and intimate. Like a village.
Kona History, in Surround Sound
The Kona Village Resort encourages a conversation with the past. With 22 anchialine pools and 21 archeological sites across the property, the lands are not only well-maintained but well-loved. One morning, I stumble upon an area once the site of a village kitchen. Later, I see a pockmarked slab of stone that reminds me of checkers. A nearby plaque confirms it was a traditional board game.
Not far from the lagoon, I find a raised wooden boardwalk where ancient petroglyphs are carved into stones and slabs. Ala Hele Papa is an on-property open-air museum, filled with archaeological treasures. These petroglyphs reveal the stories of the past.
One carving, Honu I Ka ‘Upena, shows a sea turtle in an intricate net pattern. Another, Hapi Kanaka, depicts a burial procession—two human figures carrying a third between them.
There are 440 documented drawings in the area, some of which are almost 1,000 years old. Rosewood binds the art and stories of the past to the present day. The petroglyphs and relics are complemented by common areas filled with bold and dramatic modern art.
Nearly all the commissioned artwork around the property is created by artists who are native Hawaiians or current residents.
In Hawaii, Jetlag is your BFF
I head to The Market around 7am, ready to embrace the day with the help of a strong cappuccino. The Market is Kona’s hub, located beachside and stocked with baked goods and complimentary fresh fruit alongside matchas, espressos, and cold brews.
The Market opens at 5:30am. Anywhere else, this would seem absurd. But in Hawaii, most of the guests have traveled from mainland USA and are jetlagged. 7am Hawaii Standard Time (HST) looks and feels like lunchtime Eastern Standard Time (EST). Kids run amok. Snorkels pop out of the water. Some intrepid travelers have already returned from a morning hike.
On (and Off) Property at Kona Village
As one would expect from a world-class resort, endless activities, excursions, spa treatments, and water sports are on hand. The tiered adults-only pool is steps from the beach. After our fair share of adventures on the Road to Hana the previous week, we’re happy to do the bare minimum: eat, drink, caffeinate, and sunbathe.
We get off property a few times, if only to justify the rental car. Those excursions are worth it. We see more of the island’s beauty, hike beside royal burial grounds, and watch a giant sea turtle play in a shallow rock pool. Natural beauty and wildlife are ever-present in Kona.
But there’s nothing like coming ‘home’ after a few hours away. It was especially important to get to Talk Story Bar, Kona Village’s beach cocktail shack, before sunset. I’ll always remember Talk Story as the place I saw the green flash—a phenomenon that occurs when the sun’s final rays disappear into the horizon. Until that night at precisely 6:42pm, I was convinced it was pure myth.
Moana, Shipwrecks, and Cowboys
There are three restaurants at Rosewood Kona Village. Over our five nights, we eat twice at open-air Moana, twice at beachfront Kahuwai Cookhouse, and on our final night, score a coveted seat at the Shipwreck Bar for sushi. This shipwreck is no beach gimmick. It’s Johnno Jackson’s beloved schooner, restored as a place to gather and imbibe—a nod to the resort’s fishing village past.
At Kahuwai Cookhouse, wooden tables dig into the sand under twinkling lights mimicking the constellations overhead. The menu celebrates Hawaii’s cowboy (paniolo) culture with Hawaiian specialties, like huli huli chicken and steak tacos.
Restaurant Moana may double as a breakfast venue, but it feels completely different at dinner time. It serves Pacific Rim-to-table cuisine with sustainably sourced ingredients. The high-pitched roof, open-air setting, and amber lighting create a vibe worth dressing up for. Meals are long and relaxed. The lapping waves provide a lulling soundtrack to accompany the clinking glasses and low laughter.
Did I mention the flip side of jetlag? Everyone is asleep by 9pm.
Daily Rhythms
The days take on the slow island rhythm I crave after our many near-death experiences on the Road to Hana. Early mornings with the sunrise and the birds. The Market for coffee and a leisurely breakfast at Moana. A few hours in the sun, then a stroll along the bay searching for shells.
Later, beachside ceviche with a bottle of chilled wine. A nap (because why not?) under a thatched umbrella. Reading, biking, swimming, and scouting for sea turtles and whales. More birding. More biking. Sunset at Talk Story Bar and then another dinner under the stars. This pace is so unlike my real life. What a vacation is meant to be.
It Takes a Village
I grab my last Kona cappuccino and scan the horizon for whales. I’m so busy looking into the distance, I nearly miss a seal belly-rolling towards the shore less than ten yards away. She bounces her weight back and forth using her flippers to propel her massive body onto the beach.
This is 403, a regular guest at Kona Village. She’s an endangered monk seal, one of only ten around the islands, and she’s ready for a nap after a long swim from Maui.
The beach staff springs into action. “It takes a village,” the young, shirtless Hawaiian says with a smile, as he cordons off the area around her. (Not creative license, he really said that!) A quiet crowd gathers. Cameras click. Then, just as naturally, village life resumes. 403 may nap for up to 24 hours. And while she takes up prime beach real estate, no one seems to mind.
Kona Village is a sacred place. I imagine the villagers who lived here centuries ago. They left behind a road map in their petroglyphs and carvings. An insight into their lives. Those who visit Hawaii’s Kona Village can retrace their paths. Follow in their steps. Their fishing village may no longer exist, but it’s honored here.
A new life, built on the memories of the past.
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