In 30 days, I’m moving to Stowe.
If my teenage self knew she’d one day be living in rural Vermont, she’d laugh that layer of AquaNet right off her teased head. That girl wasn’t destined for the slow life. She wouldn’t be caught dead in Muck Boots slogging along snow-covered roads. She’d be clicking down city sidewalks in stilettos.
Forty years later, that girl is a middle-aged woman. Now I’m the one laughing. Part giddiness and part nervous energy. How did I get here? What am I going to do in Vermont? And where can I get a cute pair of Muck Boots?
I’ve traveled to Stowe, Vermont, since childhood. But I’m just as surprised as that sassy teenager I’m choosing to live there permanently. Big cities have defined my decades—the aforementioned Manhattan sidewalks in my 20s and early 30s. Raising a family in Tokyo in my 40s, and then punching through 50 in the political maelstrom of DC. Each of these places has surpassed expectations. I have no doubt Stowe will follow suit.
Ok, maybe a little bit of doubt.
What I don’t doubt is the beauty of Vermont, and Stowe in particular. Stowe encapsulates New England charm. Don’t believe me? Ask any of the nearly one million visitors who flock to it each year. There are plenty of reasons to fall for Stowe. For those who don’t already know its wonders, allow me to introduce you.
I’ll start with Fall.
A Stowe for All Seasons
Stowe is a year-round destination. In winter, Mt. Mansfield dominates, with 116 runs over 485 acres of skiable terrain. The mountain appeals to all ski skill levels, and has enough snowshoeing trails and non-skiing activities to please any winter traveler. There’s just as much to do off the slopes as on them.
The village is a holiday postcard, with the Community Church acting like Santa’s beacon. When it’s lit up on a snowy night, the steeple casts an ethereal glow over Main Street. It feels as if you’ve stepped into an old winter’s tale.
In summer, bikers, hikers, dogs, and walkers share the Recreation and Quiet Paths that loop the town. The paths are dotted with low arching bridges over bubbling streams and wispy, golden fields. Layers of green mountains unfold in every direction.
Fall is Extraordinary
But Fall. Well, Fall is extraordinary. From September through late October, Stowe glows, fully aware it’s her moment to shine. Leaves the color of a golden retriever’s coat fall from skies whose only intention is to show them off.
In the Fall, the village is a hive of activity. Shoppers spill out of Bear Pond Books, arms piled high with fiction and fantasy. Kids ogle over jars of old-fashioned sweets at Stowe Mercantile, and wannabe interior designers fawn over the farm-chic wares at Farm Home Co.. Pumpkins pop up along West Hill Road, cradled in patches that conjure up Charlie Brown’s Halloween antics. Crumbling red barns make our hearts skip a beat and add a cinematic touch to the country scene.
But also in the Fall, Stowe becomes a wee bit challenging to navigate. The restaurants book up, and sharing the road becomes a lesson in kindness. But kindness abounds—because everyone is just so damn happy. Kaleidoscopic colors lining a historic Main Street just bring out the best in people, I guess. Even the New Yorkers.
There’s no shortage of blog posts and magazine articles describing Stowe in the Fall. It’s a small town; the best places to stay, dine, drink, and hike are easily Google-able. But local knowledge always rules—and local knowledge I have. Forty years of it, in fact. Soon enough, my local knowledge will get even more refined, as we pack our bags and drive as far north as we can without a passport.
Whether you’ve already been to Stowe or are planning your first trip, here are my favorite haunts, drives, hikes, views, and ways to get the most out of a Fall Stowe getaway. Prepare to fall in love.
Go Stowe
How many towns have their own logo? Surely there are none as recognizable, timeless, and with as much gravitas as Stowe’s. The ‘Flying S,’ as it’s often called, was initially designed by a German-born artist named Sascha Maurer, who created posters for U.S. ski resorts.
The logo first appeared in the 1950s and has since been used to market and brand Stowe. As a former graphic designer, I admire how the ‘S’ evokes the downhill swish of a ski turn. As a former advertising exec, I appreciate how the tagline, ‘Go Stowe,’ serves as both an invitation and a rallying cry to explore.
So, let’s explore.
Quench Your Thirst
Hot Chocolate Break: ‘Tis the season for dark chocolate pumpkins and Bourbon caramels. Lake Champlain Chocolate is a Main Street boutique that has been an ongoing ode to chocolate since 1983, about the time I started visiting Stowe. Travel + Leisure may have named it ‘America’s Best Hot Chocolate,’ but if I were you, I’d do some personal research. Don’t skip the colorful Stowe mural hidden around the side of the building—a family selfie moment you won’t regret, no matter how much your kids cringe.
A Shot of Espresso at Café On Moscow: This teeny-tiny coffee-and-sandwich shop on the outer edge of Stowe is far enough away from the maddening crowds to feel like you’ve discovered it first. Beyond great coffee, baked goods, and sandwiches, they sell a handful of crafts from local artisans and have a few outdoor tables to soak up the sun. There are lots of great country roads nearby to get lost among the leaves.
Pop-Up Pastries: Whereabouts is a nighttime speakeasy that transforms into a pop-up coffee and bakehouse on Friday mornings. Local entrepreneur, Hannah Mitrani, cleverly roped in nearby Hyde Park’s Two Sons to showcase their buttery baguettes, scones, and muffins. Open from 8am til every crumb is gone—set your alarm.
Orange is the New Black (Cap): Coffee is always in season, but with its badass brews and front porch views, the Black Cap Café was made for Fall. The line might snake out the door, but resist the temptation to cross the street to a soulless franchise. Black Cap coffees, sandwiches, and baked goods are worth the wait. Women-owned and women-powered, with a shot of Chaggaccino or VT maple syrup. You’re on holiday—what’s the rush?
Legendary Brews: The Alchemist got its start in nearby Waterbury, but now offers its cult-following Heady Topper, among other IPAs, from its Stowe location. What’s all the fuss? Well, Heady Topper’s distribution is small and has consistently ranked among the world’s best beers—two valid reasons to seek it out. True beer-bros will want to book a brewery tour. Check the website for details.
It’s All About the Leaves
Fall Into Step: The Quiet and Rec Paths are two trail systems that capture what makes Stowe so special. I’d be lying if I said this scenic duo isn’t partially responsible for my move to Stowe. There isn’t a season they disappoint me, not a weather condition I’m not awed by. The mornings when a low sheath of fog slowly lifts above the mountains are one of my favorite sights. And when shards of sunlight break through the cover, it’s proof of a Higher Power if there ever was one.
The Stowe Recreation Path stretches 5.3 miles—a gentle ribbon of pavement perfect for biking, walking, or simply sitting on a bench to watch the leaves drift down. There are several access points, but one of the prettiest is just behind the Stowe Community Church, where the canopy blazes with color. Be sure to turn around as you wander—you’ll find one of the most iconic photo angles of the church steeple as you look back towards town.
The Quiet Path is just that: quiet. Reserved for walkers, both two-legged and four, it’s a peaceful counterpoint to the lively Rec Path. Park at the Mayo Farm Road lot (near the intersection of Weeks Hill Road), and meander along the edges of open cornfields. Slip down to the rocky stream bank, and you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of verdant Mount Mansfield.
Get Lost: Percy Farm’s famous corn maze will delight visitors of all ages—unless corn mazes scare the bejeesus out of you, like they do me. If that’s the case, sit at a picnic table and let your crew test their sense of direction and battle claustrophobia.
Located just off the Mountain Road, visitors can pull into the Thompson Park lot and follow the Recreation Path north on foot. Cross a small bridge, and the maze will be on your left. Don’t forget your camera; the Fall foliage here is unbeatable.
Worcester Views Rule: Speaking of Percy and his farm, I consider the best spot to admire the Worcester mountain range to be at the intersection of Weeks Hill and Percy Hill Roads, where Percy’s barn once stood. From here, you can see the expanse of the range, which in the Fall is lit up to perfection. Not long ago, Percy’s historic barn burned down, but the iconic dairy cows remain. I hear the bears are envious that the cows have the best views around. Those bovines always do look pretty smug.
Parker’s Barn is Falling Down: Parker’s Barn’s days are numbered. Literally numbered. Built in 1875 and located on West Hill Road near Mayo Farm, this weathered Stowe icon has seen better days. While the town decides its fate, make a detour. In the fall, Weeks Hill is alive with color, and Parker’s pigeon-filled barn stands as a striking foreground to Green Mountain views.
The Money Shot: Looking for the best steeple view? My go-to spot is from the parking lot at Tangerine & Olive, a mountain road boutique just a bit beyond Stowe’s famous covered bridge. While there, be sure to show this sweet shop some love. Tangerine & Olive has unique adventure-driven items you won’t find anywhere else in town. If you decide to drive, use the dedicated parking area just before the store; otherwise, I might get blacklisted from Stowe before I even get there.
Golden Hour SkyRide: You won’t burn any calories to get these views, but your heart will race anyway. The Stowe Gondola SkyRide in autumn is distractingly beautiful, with views of rolling hills blanketed in burnt reds, rich golds, and fiery oranges. On clear days, you can see for miles—past the patchwork of the Green Mountains, over the valley floor, and toward the distant Adirondacks. Go at golden hour or in the morning for peak pics.
Through The Notch: Smuggler’s Notch is the stuff of legends—one of Vermont’s most dramatic mountain passes and, at one time, a notorious Prohibition smuggling route. Today, the leaf-obsessed can drive this winding corridor of towering cliffs, enormous, prehistoric boulders, and lush forests. Once winter arrives, the Notch closes to vehicular traffic, so grab your hiking boots or snowshoes to tackle it on foot. The scenery will be worth it, and your heart will thank you.
Where to Burn Calories
Top of the Mountain: This scenic drive along the Auto Toll Road has 4.5 miles of switchbacks and hairy curves that take you to the summit ridge of Mt. Mansfield. The colors along the ride are astounding, and since you aren’t going much faster than 20 mph, you’ll have lots of time to admire them. ‘That doesn’t sound very active,’ you’re thinking. Just hang on.
Arriving at the top is just the beginning of this Stowe Mountain exclusive. From the parking lot, hike the Long Trail to the ‘chin’ of the mountain. The hike undulates, passing through narrow pine-laden spots and open rocky plateaus. You don’t have to hike all the way to the chin for stunning scenery (or to burn calories), but if you do, sit and stay for a while. An open panorama of layered blues and greens, along with views of Lake Champlain in the distance, will have you spinning in circles trying to take it all in.
Hikers’ Warning: Not all trails come with a warning, but the Cliff Trail’s is well-deserved. I didn’t want to hike the Cliff Trail, but I’m married to someone who often nudges pushes throws me beyond my comfort zone—something about him I simultaneously love and hate.
I can testify to the Cliff Trail’s rigor. It follows a very steep, exposed 1.1-mile route that had me climbing iron rungs and gasping across rock gaps. It had me cursing my husband—and wondering how my cardio had plummeted so drastically, given that I practically live in an Equinox. But when I finished, I felt superhuman, and devoured an entire pizza on the way home.
There are several ways to access this short yet steep hike. One is from the parking lot at the top of the Toll Road (bring a map; I wouldn’t be able to find the trailhead without one), and the other is from a trail near the top of the gondola. Whichever you choose, bring water, wear hiking shoes, and don’t forget sunscreen.
The Pinnacle: Stowe Pinnacle is one of Vermont’s most rewarding short hikes—especially in the Fall, when the landscape explodes with color. This round-trip hike is 3.7 miles with a steady uphill ascent, including some rocky scrambles. The reward for your effort? The most fabulous views of Mount Mansfield from an open bouldered ledge. Just be sure to follow the same color trail markers back down the mountain. I’m not going to get into specifics, but let’s just say a disagreement about the color blue almost cost me my marriage.
All About Ranch Camp: Ranch Camp is the cycling hub of Stowe. It also serves some of the best lunches in town. I never miss a chance to order The Rock, a grain bowl piled high with everything I love: fresh avocado, black beans, arugula, corn salsa, and brown basmati rice. The menu is custom-made to celebrate the completion of any Stowe activity, even if that activity is driving up the Toll Road.
Ranch Camp rents bikes and E-bikes, so no need to tow your own if you want to take on Stowe’s mountain trails. Cady Hill Forest is one of Stowe’s most popular biking trails, and it’s conveniently accessed behind Ranch Camp. Often referred to as the ‘maple jungle,’ this trail system is peaceful, lush, and intimate.
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner
The Butler’s Breakfast: I don’t usually eat breakfast, but the first thing I’m going to do when I move to Stowe is beeline to The Butler’s Pantry for buttermilk pancakes drenched in Vermont maple syrup. There’s always a wait, so it must be worth it.
To help ease the pain of waiting, however, their website has a ‘Join the Waitlist’ link, which I interpret as an excuse to walk along Main Street and build up an appetite. Beyond pancakes, Butler’s Pantry serves other morning delights like Challah French Toast, Three-Egg Omelets, and Biscuits and Gravy.
Ranch Camp Refresh: I already sang the praises of Ranch Camp, but it deserves an encore. I never, ever, don’t eat lunch at Ranch Camp when I’m in Stowe. I’m considering asking whether they have any job openings, so I can offset how much I spend there. Don’t miss Cody’s Crunch Wrap. It’s a twofer—so big you can save half for tomorrow’s breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
The Hills Are Alive: Yes, those hills are in Stowe, too. Everyone knows about Trapp’s Family Lodge. So instead, try the gloriously understated and intimate Edson Hill for dinner. The dining room is beautiful, everything a Vermont lodge should be. Despite its long history in Stowe, Edson Hill has kept up with the times without losing its warm elegance.
In the Fall, Edson Hill’s 38 acres exude Vermont country charm. New England flavors with a twist are on order; try the Maine Lobster Hand Roll with Yuzu, Shiso, and Spicy Furikake, Trumpet Mushroom Tempura, or the Roasted Hudson Valley Chicken with Sunchokes and Roasted Brussel Sprouts. Save room for Sticky Toffee Pudding. Edson Hill also has gorgeous cottages and rooms—if I didn’t live in Stowe, this is where I’d stay.
Getting Granular
I only know a handful of practical, hyper-local tips about Stowe. But watch this space. I’m going to be a ruthless tip collector once I get there. Do you already live in my future hometown? What can I add? Drop me a note!
Parking Matters: If you don’t find a spot on Main Street, don’t lose hope. Try the public parking behind the Community Church, or the lot behind Shaw’s and the Green Mountain Inn. There’s another lot located near the Post Office on Depot Street. May the parking gods be with you!
Avoid Road Rage: Fall is one of Stowe’s most popular times of year for tourism, so traffic is a given. If you want to avoid losing your mind, consider the time of day you drive into Stowe and around town. The stop sign at Mountain Road and Main Street is particularly infuriating in the afternoons. Get out early, wear your comfiest sneakers, and walk. Smile.
Self-Catering, Stowe-Style: Shaw’s Supermarket is not the only place to stock up on groceries for your Airbnb or rental (thank God). We love Commodities for produce and specialty items. Yes, it’s pricier. But the produce is fresh, and the parking lot is easy.
Basement Wines: Not basement prices, but the wines found at Fine Wine Cellars will suit all of your vino-related needs. This family-run business on the Mountain Road started as a hobby and, over the years, expanded beyond wine by adding a cute gift shop. The earthy cellar is the real deal, complete with low ceilings, the scent of bold tannins, and the faint aroma of fermented yeast—awakening senses that true oenophiles will appreciate and will make the rest of us sneeze.
Tracking Color: If you have flexibility in your vacation plans, consider using a Fall Foliage tracker before you commit to a travel date. There’s definitely some risk using this tactic, as many Stowe hotels book up quite far in advance. Grab a Farmer’s Almanac and start researching, or take your best guess. Either way, it’s nice to have some idea of the color by tracking previous year’s color paths.
Good Things Come With Age
In 30 days, I’m moving to Stowe. I’m trading my Manolos for Muck Boots and my insecurities for a sense of adventure.
Wine isn’t the only thing that gets better with age. As I’ve matured, I’ve come to appreciate things my younger self wouldn’t have given a flying fig about: a crimson-tinged maple leaf, a misty morning fog, and a pine-filled trail that opens onto a vast panorama. I’ve realized that beauty is something I can observe, not something I have to possess.
I’ve spent decades enjoying big-city life and all that comes with it: jam-packed restaurants, buzzy bars, and sleek, modern gyms. Now, small-town life sounds divine. I’m ready for cozy dining rooms, local watering holes, and more trails than I’ll ever have time to hike. I understand the appeal of getting into flannel PJs at 5pm. Wait, doesn’t everyone?
What I love about my future hometown goes far beyond that, though. Beyond colorful leaves, pumpkin patches, and dog walks on quiet paths. I recognize that I crave different things than I used to. Although I don’t know exactly what my life will look like in Stowe, I know I’ll figure it out when I get there.
Think about taking a drive north. Fall in Vermont is undeniably beautiful, and Stowe oozes New England charm. To my DC peeps: I’m not expecting visitors every weekend, but I sure wouldn’t mind it. Mark your calendars. I’ll save a seat for you at Ranch Camp.
Maybe you’ll fall for Stowe, too.
Get My E-Guide: The Ultimate Non-Skier’s Guide to Stowe
5 Stowe FAQs:
How do I get to Stowe?
Stowe is about a 45-minute drive from Burlington International Airport (BTV). Fly into Burlington, rent a car, and you’ll be winding through mountain roads in no time.
What’s the population of Stowe?
Just under 6,000 people call Stowe home. Small town. Big personality.
How big is Stowe?
Stowe covers about 72 square miles—about the size of San Francisco, just with more maple trees and fewer tech bros.
Do I need a car?
Yes. While the main village is walkable, most of Stowe’s best spots—trails, farms, covered bridges—are a short drive away. Having a car is key.
Is Stowe dog-friendly?
Very. You’ll find trails, patios, and even inns that welcome your four-legged BFFs.
Love the photos, colors and Stowe nuggests of info here!
Thank you for reading! -Jamie
Hello! I enjoyed your article about fall. What about spring? We are spring skiing two days in march but then have two other days to enjoy Stowe. Staying at Green Mountain Inn. What is the best pizza spot from a local? Any other tips!?