Sailing Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast /
Nearly three years to the day of our first sailing trip along the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia, we found ourselves there again. The same boat, but a new captain, crew, islands, bays, and coves to explore. Not too much had changed there in those three years, and in the best possible way. Swooping seagulls, secluded island villages, schools of iridescent fish, and the gentle flapping of the Croatian flag off the stern of the boat as we motored along in the warm, fresh breezes off the coast.
All of the things we couldn’t stop thinking about since our first trip in 2015, and were looking forward to experiencing again. Arguably, a few more tourists had descended upon the country, but it still felt like it was ours to discover.
Until Croatia, we had never taken the same trip twice. It’s a big world, and we love traveling to new countries, cities, towns, and villages. It seemed a poor use of a short life of travel to do the same trip again. But something about sailing on a beautiful, wooden gulet—all of our needs taken care of by a capable and convivial crew—and living life on the water for a week, was worth a do-over.
Sailing Croatia: Gulet Life
Maybe the allure of sailing as a mode of travel is simply a contrast to my typically nature-starved life. The idea of straying off the grid, gliding along the sea effortlessly, all the while admiring what Mother Nature has to offer, is liberating. The landscape, islands, and villages bathed in amber as the sun begins its descent each evening, is just one memory I had seared in my mind from three years ago.
Our first sunset on the boat was after a short motor to a quiet bay off the island of Jaklijan. The sky went through a frenzy of vibrant colors before eventually settling on a supercharged array of deep purples and hot pinks. With every passing minute, I thought the sunset couldn’t get better, and yet somehow, it did. It was a strong debut to a week of dramatic skies, day and night, each sunset and sunrise different and yet equally mesmerizing.
Sailing Croatia on The Kadena
Part of what makes boat life so unique is that everything you need and want is within reach and sailing along with you each day. Our lovely gulet, the Kadena, was a gorgeous wooden sailboat, immaculately cared for by the captain and crew. Originally built in 2000, but refit in 2017, the Kadena is 105ft long with six berths that can accommodate up to 12 guests, with room for two extra kids if need be. Stately cabins, en suite bathrooms, airy and open seating areas indoors and out, as well as a wood-paneled master cabin that is especially spacious. It is floating luxury at its best.
My favorite spot on the Kadena, without a doubt, is the covered day bed at the stern of the boat. The wide soft cushions are the perfect spot for a shady nap or a spot to read while never losing sight of the scenery or the feel of the breeze.
It happens that the owner’s son, Tom, was our captain for the week. With our talented and accommodating chef, Boris, as well as the two other endearing crew members, Jean and Ivan, there was very little we needed to think about aside from taking advantage of the sea, and the views, and wondering from which bay we should enjoy our cocktails each evening.
Our boat came equipped with aquatic toys of every kind: snorkeling gear, two stand-up paddle boards, a two-person kayak, a tube, and waterskis.
The kids screeched and squealed while being pulled in circles at breakneck speed sitting in a large floating donut. Crewman Jean, commanding the dinghy, intuitively accommodated the boat’s speed based on each child’s age and his or her level of adventure.
Each day, after a few hours of either motoring or sailing, we would anchor, and the kids would immediately hurl themselves off the boat for the remainder of the day, jumping and diving, only stopping to eat meals. The crew rings a bell when it’s meal time and the reaction is classically Pavlovian!
The grown-ups were equally ready to take advantage of the water toys, but also spent hours on the cushy sun loungers that dotted the top deck, played cards, read, and snoozed in peace while the kids repeatedly jumped ship.
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Chef Boris
The food on the boat was simple, yet inspired, Chef Boris created beautiful three-course meals of freshly caught fish like sea bass, monkfish, and swordfish, accompanied by Mediterranean salads and fresh vegetables. The meals were topped off with ice cream or homemade desserts. He was careful to take our dietary restrictions into careful consideration and came up with creative alternatives when necessary.
Breakfasts were a lovely array of either scrambled eggs, bacon, or crépes with Nutella, Greek yogurts, fresh fruit, granola, meats, and cheeses. Breakfast was certainly taken to a new level, enhanced by warm breezes as we motored along each morning while we ate. Thankfully there were cappuccinos, teas, and other caffeine-charged drinks on hand for those who needed an extra boost to become human each morning.
Our days were guided by whim, the itinerary having been set and discussed in advance with the captain, but able to be modified should we want to change course. Sailing, in my eyes, is one of the most free-ing ways to spend a day. At any given moment we passed island towns puddled together with their omnipresent terracotta rooftops and stone churches, the limestone houses looked like tiny ruby-topped jewel boxes.
The circadian rhythms of our days were enchanting, each 24-hour period seemingly the same, but with the ever-changing scenery, were nothing at all alike. However, anyone accustomed to getting in 10,000 steps a day might reconsider this type of holiday, as I may have topped out at around 50 daily.
Sailing Croatia: Jaklijan to Mljet
Mljet was an island we had wanted to visit again as it seemed like such a well-kept secret back in 2015. Mljet is unique in that it is a mountainous Croatian national park and is home to many large beautiful lakes. Once on shore, you can rent bicycles and take your time winding up and down the rolling hills towards the lakes before a well-deserved swim.
A good way to make up for the lack of steps! When we pulled into the cove, we couldn’t help but notice the number of superyachts, sailboats, and catamarans that were already there. I guess the secret of Mljet is officially out, but it didn’t detract from the gorgeous and lush scenery Mljet had to offer.
The different shades of the Adriatic Sea were hypnotic, and you’d often see schools of glittery fish create a tornado of activity as you peered over the edge of the boat, facilitated a little by the bits of crusty leftover bread the kids would throw over the edge. By 6pm, the ripples on the water were highlighted by the descending sun and looked like a million twinkling stars dancing on the surface of the sea. Color and light, the main actors in the drama of the holiday, are never the same from one day to the next.
After a full afternoon of paddle boarding, water-skiing, and diving off the boat, the sun began to edge out the clouds, creating deep intense oranges and then rich purples that saturated the sky. It created a dramatic silhouette against the mountainous backdrop. Worthy of a cocktail moment, the crew was very happy to mix up some gin and tonics to toast the fading sun and its magical light.
Island hopping Through Croatia
On our way to the island of Scedero the next morning, we sat on the sun loungers at the front of the boat and caught sight of skillful kite surfers who were chasing the wind along the Croatian mainland in the distance. Scedero is a tiny island, even by Croatian standards, with only two bays in which to anchor, and as of 1999 has had only one inhabitant. There was a small beach shack/restaurant and little local kids, some half-naked, frolicking in the water. An old-fashioned feeling of bygone days pervaded the scene.
We took the kayak to the beachfront and in only ten minutes hiked up and over to the other side of the island where the sea was vast and uninterrupted by other islands. A single boat with its crisp white sail was keeling in the distance — the tranquility was palpable, the only sound being a lone frigate bird squawking nearby. The strong scent of wild rosemary accompanied me on the walk, all the more noticeable because life at sea generally seems to lack smell altogether.
Discovering Colma
One especially exciting part of boat life is suddenly catching a glimpse of a well-hidden cove, the only signs of occupancy being the tops of the tall sailboat masts hovering above the tree line. It made me feel like an explorer on a mission. We motored towards the island of Hvar, and hugged the fertile coastline with its rows of terraced vineyards, which then changed to stretches of the sheer rock face, and severely windblown trees that appeared to live forever horizontally. The landscape was broken only by the occasional lighthouse. Our destination was a tiny cove called Luka Vela Garska.
Luka Vela Garska was a quiet cove on the island of Hvar, and just a ten-minute dinghy ride to lively Hvar Town. The true highlight of Luka Vela Garska was the intimate beach restaurant, Colma. Only accessible by boats, we either swam, kayaked, or paddle-boarded to spend a few sunset hours with cocktails in hand, no shoes necessary!
Colma was so irresistibly simple—thatched beach umbrellas with wooden platform loungers that jut out over the rocky edge and hover above the water. Music was a mix of Depeche Mode, The Cure, and Prince — it was as if they knew we were coming. The vibe was low-key beach chic. The kids swam and ordered banana shakes while the grown-ups indulged with Aperol Spritzes and Coronas. It was a perfect way to both relax and gear up for the night ahead.
Sailing to Hvar Town: Peaceful by day, party by night
Hvar Town is a place that gains energy as the sun subsides. The tourists and families start to disappear and the nightclubs and bars slowly dominate the island. If you want to explore the narrow and wonderfully steep side streets of the town, it is worthwhile getting there early and meandering before the change takes over.
Restaurants abound, and outdoor tables practically fill up the entire width of the cobblestone passageways. It is still charming then, and up until about sunset, the light plays off the large church in the main square and bounces off the limestone facades that surround you. But be warned, soon it will become a free for all—bachelor parties roaming the streets and club promoters passing out leaflets for Hvar’s ‘premiere’ clubs. South Beach, meet Hvar.
We did end up leaving the kids behind with our parents that night and spent a few hours in and out of the bars, eventually ending up at a beach bar called Hula Hula. Earlier that day, a famous pop singer named Oliver Dragojevic, a national treasure, we were told, had passed away. Thousands of red flares went up throughout the harbor and along the coast in his honor. Croatians were singing his songs and dancing in inebriated groups, arms linked in memory of their cherished singer.
We were swept up in a wave of national pride. At 10pm sharp, the beach bar, throbbing with a DJ and 500 or more people, suddenly shut down, as it was being entirely reserved for the staff to have their own tribute party. We somehow evaded the mandatory evacuation and danced with the bartenders and waitresses past midnight, doing our best to sing along to the tunes of their beloved Oliver.
Sailing To Stunning Korcula
One of the few islands we revisited from our first sailing trip in 2015 was the enchanted island of Korcula. It was in Korcula that we spent our one and only marina night, versus moored or anchored in a bay. This gave us the opportunity to come and go from the boat and explore the island at our leisure.
The layout of Korcula Town resembles that of a fish bone. One central street divides the town and then dozens of narrow passages protrude from the center. Korcula has definitely become a hot tourist spot, and it shows in the unfortunate number of Game of Thrones references, tacky souvenir shops, and non-descript boutiques. However, it is still worth a visit, as it is just such a stunning place, and the golden light at sunset seems to set the entire town aglow.
The long promenade along the outer perimeter of the island is dotted with dozens of pretty little restaurants and open-air cafes, each with waterside tables boasting gorgeous views of the Adriatic Sea. The promenade curves along the water towards a large stone turret, where you can climb to the top along a small ladder and enjoy sunset drinks from above.
Unfortunately for us, no kids were allowed, so we sat waterside and ordered mojitos and smoothies before heading back to the boat for dinner. At one point while wandering through the back streets, I caught sight of an elderly Croatian woman high above the thrall, hanging her laundry, oblivious to the chaos below. It was a sweet reminder that there is still real life going on in this seemingly storybook village.
Life between the sea and the sky
During breakfast that last morning, we motored past hillsides of vineyards that resembled a patchwork quilt of bright yellows and luscious greens, with clusters of red rooftops set up into the hills, breaking through the landscape like a spark. It was this carefree lifestyle that had me hooked and will likely have me coming back. As with any great holiday, the first few days seemed to linger slowly and leisurely, allowing us to settle into vacation mode. But then annoyingly, they started to gain momentum, and I found myself wondering how it was almost over.
We sailed into the sun, having decided to spend our final night back in the cove of Jakljan, where we stayed our first night—ending the journey as we began. At this time of day, the colors of the scenery played tricks on our minds. Looking in the direction the sun was facing, all the edges of the islands and mountains were sharply defined, the colors vivid and intense. Turning around, it was quite the opposite, the overlapping islands blurred together in various shades of blues and grays, no definition whatsoever, a wash of pastels, the Adriatic a subtle shade different than the islands and sky.
Only the mast of a lone white passing catamaran broke the line of the horizon. It was surreal. As if to remind us that no two nights are alike. At sunset, the sky darkened to nearly black, then opened up with a downpour of biblical proportions. I was sure it was sabotage, as I had my heart set on taking some posed family pics. We huddled under the dining canvas for 30 minutes, assuming that this was our fate for the night, but then the rain stopped and another sky appeared in dramatic and tranquil light. Pictures ensued, much to my husband’s dismay.
Color most certainly defines Croatia—blues, greens, whites, and naturals. But perhaps gold is the most critical color in the palette, it being the catalyst for the change in all of the other colors. The golden light is what creates the variables in the blues, the nuances in the limestone, and the richness of the greens. The light is then what creates the thousands of other unnamed, undefinable colors that you don’t even realize you are seeing.
We spent a week adrift along the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia. I said I’d never take the same trip twice, and I was happy to prove myself wrong. Or maybe three’s a charm, as we are already booked for summer 2021.
Captain Tom, here we come. Again.
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If you are interested in chartering the Kadena, please contact me via the ‘Contact and Subscribe’ link at the top of the page.
I will be more than thrilled to e-introduce you to Captain Tom in order to make direct booking arrangements.
If you have the time to tack on a few days in Dubrovnik, Villa Dubrovnik is a lovely hotel that sits on the edge of the sea.
Curious about an itinerary that starts in Split and ends in Dubrovnik? Read exactly why we booked ourselves back on the Kadena a few years later.
Woww what an incredible trip! I love Croatia so much, we’ll definitely bear this in mind for next time! 😀
If you ever want or need information on the trip, or boat, just ask! I can introduce you to the captain via email. Cheers!
These images are stunning! I cannot get over the deep greens and blues. Lovely!
Amy, Sorry for the long delay in my reply! I am grateful for the lovely comment. Thank you so much for reading! -Jamie
That’s some dreamy sunset photos / sunset lover 😀 Loved the post! Just what we need right now when we’re stuck at home
HI Nathalie, Thak you for the comment, and apologies for the delayed reply. I really appreciate your thoughts! Happy New Year! -Jamie
Even if I’m from Croatia, I never went for real sailing holidays here, so when I read it’s a place you return to, I got envy for the things I’m missing out lol.
Definitely something I should do in future!
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Thank you for the reply, Ivan. Croatia is really a place I could go to again and again and not get bored. Try sailing this year maybe? -Jamie
Looks incredible. I really loved Croatia. Such a beautiful region. By boat would’ve been excellent!
Yes, it’s definitely worth a sailing experience, it’s so gentle on the sea. Hope you have a great 2021! Thank you so much for commenting. -Jamie
I’ve only been to Dubrovnik in Croatia but I’d love to do a sailing trip like this. It looks like an incredible experience!
It really is, Sara! Worth exploring. Dubrovnik is a beautiful city too, as you know. I hope 2021 brings us all health, happier times and safe travels. Warm regards, Jamie
I’m lying awake at 6am, living vicariously through these lush photos and wishing I were there (or indeed anywhere besides my apartment). A friend offered me the use of her beach cottage on the Outer Banks for January so I could at least walk on the beach every day, brave the chilly but wonderful outdoor shower, and build a fire in the chiminea at night. All I have to do is pack up my laptop and printer and some warm clothes and two screaming cats and all their baggage and pantry staples and wine and geez, I hope I can cram it all into a Honda Fit. Love you, Bonbon!
Hi Rachel! I say fit it all in the Honda Fit and go! Who cares if the beach is cold. Hope you are doing well. Miss our fun times in the city and Draft life. xoxo