My top five favorite Caribbean beach bars and restaurants are personal. They’re based on my memories of food, wine, people, and views. My top five list might change over time, but these are the Caribbean beach bars and beach clubs that keep my travel memories alive and kicking.
My Top Five Caribbean Beach Bars
When assessing the best beach bars, suffice it to say that I have a few baseline requirements. A vibe that naturally pairs with the island’s culture is one. Combining tourists and locals adds authenticity and credibility, and festive air helps. The food (if served) is at a culinary level that matches the establishment’s look and atmosphere. And lastly, a USP (Unique Selling Point) that makes me yearn to go back months after the holiday has ended.
Except for Anegada, I’ve been fortunate enough to visit the following Caribbean beach clubs and bars more than once. That qualifies me as an expert in my own experiences, that is. Next time you find yourself in the Caribbean (and let’s all agree that we hope that time is soon), let me know if you concur. Or better yet, tell me about your favorite Caribbean bars and restaurants.
Best Caribbean Beach bars: 5 / Basil’s Bar, Mustique
Island Vibe: Celebrity Secret Hideaway
Basil’s is a Caribbean beach bar and restaurant leisurely perched on the edge of Britannia Bay in Mustique. It attempts to camouflage the island’s undercover glamour. Lush and verdant, Mustique has only two hotels and two restaurants. Its beauty is hiding in plain sight among the breezy Windward Islands.
Why I like Basil’s: Chill, open-air, Basil’s woos villa owners, villa renters, reclusive celebrities, and yachties alike, with a combination of casual food (like perfectly seasoned grilled lobsters), a low-key atmosphere, and spectacular sea views.
I’ll admit, though, that I have little memory of the food because the setting is the star, day, and night. Mega-yachts and sublime sailboats were anchored in the distance, which created another layer to this Caribbean bar’s swoon-worthy backdrop.
USP: I like to settle into the indoor/outdoor living spaces and nooks or park myself on one of the wooden stools overlooking the tranquil Caribbean Sea.
Worth mentioning: Live Music/DJ Nights/Basil’s Boutique/Accessible by car or boat
Best Caribbean Beach bars: 4 / Catherine’s Café, Antigua
Island Vibe: Casual European Beach
To say Catherine’s is a Caribbean beach club that is comfortable in her own skin is an understatement. Open-air, louver-shuttered, sea-breezy Catherine’s Café on the island of Antigua lazes under warm, butter-yellow Veuve Cliquot umbrellas.
Why I like Catherine’s: Catherine’s barefoot casual Caribbean beach bar feels like Europe. I see naked toddlers running amok with their half-naked mums chasing them. It boasts a French-inspired menu and a well-thought-out wine list.
I can’t forget our effervescent bartender, Damien, who kept us in good spirits. Neem trees enshroud the hidden location. It practically begs one to spend an afternoon there—which is exactly what we did.
USP: The cozy and intimate beach area adjacent to the bar offers lovely bay views in a secluded setting.
Worth mentioning: Live Music/Cheese Course/G+T Menu/Bakery/Boutique/Accessible by car or boat
Best Caribbean Beach bars: 3 / The Rum Bar, Cooper Island
Island Vibe: Desert-Island Barefoot Beach Shack
Our sailboat grabbed one of the last available moorings in Manchioneel Bay, off the shores of Cooper Island. I felt like a survivor about to crawl onto a deserted beach. The people lazing on the wooden decks of the Rum Bar were scrappy and barefooted, semi-drunk, and happily marooned. It was as if we had found a hidden outpost, a tiny island jewel box, where a lucky few were escaping the outside world. Idyllic.
Why I like The Rum Bar: Cooper Island has an authenticity that is somewhat unique to the British Virgin Islands, which are often heavy with tourists and can sometimes feel manufactured.
A clear sign that the Rum Bar, part of the modest Cooper Island Beach Club, is all it’s cracked up to be was that we noticed yacht crews hanging at the bar—the real-life version of ‘Below Deck.’ If the Rum Bar was where they chose to spend their limited free time, we knew we were on to something good. It‘s definitely a Caribbean beach bar worth exploring.
USP: The remote and rickety beach shack-chic setting that, true to its name, houses 280 different rums.
Worth mentioning: Bakery/Barista/Accessible only by boat/Arrive early to get one of the 30 coveted moorings
Seventeen nautical miles from Virgin Gorda sits the pancake flat, remote island of Anegada. The name Anegada means ‘drowned island.’ At only 28 feet tall at its highest elevation, it could not feel farther away from civilization. That’s exactly what makes this Caribbean beach bar and restaurant so enchanting.
Why do they call it Cow Wreck Beach, I wondered? In 1929, a 380-foot-long steel freighter called The Rocus was heading from Trinidad to Baltimore. The Rocus’s cargo was filled with cow bones that would later be ground into fertilizer.
Unfortunately, The Rocus made an unexpected and devastatingly final stop when she collided with Anegada’s treacherous Horseshoe Reef. Since the wreck, the ocean floor has remained eerily scattered with cow bones. As for the freighter, it’s still lodged on its starboard side just beneath the water’s surface. It hasn’t budged an inch since 1929.
Why I like Cow Wreck: There are thousands of sea urchin shells in every size and all the varying degrees of white that the sun can bleach. The sea is a color that one would immediately assume is an Instagram filter. The open-air beach bar has peeling paint, plastic chairs, and dive-y, no-frills decor.
USP: A Caribbean beach bar that is this challenging to get to only adds to its allure.
Worth mentioning: Wreck Punch/Lobster/Bar games/Accessible only by boat or ferry
Best Caribbean Beach bars: 1 / St. Barths, Nikki Beach
Island Vibe:Over-the-top beach club party
There’s nowhere else in the Caribbean quite like St. Barths. Authentic French through and through, the words St. Barths conjure up Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous glamour. Nikki Beach is ideally situated to soak up the island’s eternally sun-filled vibes.
Imagine the days when Greta Garbo and other Hollywood stars walked these very shores. Now imagine Beyonce and Jay-Z at the table beside you. Nikki Beach gradually turns up the volume throughout their two Sunday seatings. You will never want the party to end.
Why I like Nikki Beach: Dance on the tables with wild abandon whether you are 8, 18, or 88. The upbeat party on the beach is for everyone. Order one of the famous sushi boats to go along with your 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet. Go wild and pair vintage Dom Perignon with an ounce or two of caviar. The sky is the limit here in every way. No one goes home hungry or thirsty without a beachy glow after a day at Nikki Beach.
USP: Glam, glam, and more glam. Part Caribbean beach club and part beach bar, it offers killer views of St. Jean’s Bay and incredible people-watching for hours on end.
Worth mentioning:Reservations are a must/Live DJ/Special occasion splurge
Dream job: If becoming a bartender abroad is your life goal, look no further than JOOBLE for inspiration.
(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)
Sailing in Belize is the antidote to Caribbean over-tourism. Follow along on our adventure to the Belize Barrier Reef where we discover some of the world’s best underwater life, remote islands, and just how much food one really needs to survive.
I wake up with the sun. In Belize, the sun is an early riser. Only two things motivate me to wake up this early—a morning flight and the promise of a magnificent sunrise. The fact that the former is mandatory and the latter is optional means I don’t see as many sunrises as I’d like.
Our boat rolls gently with the waves, trying its best to keep me nestled under my featherlight duvet. I overcome the desire to burrow and head above deck, still in my PJs. Which is how I find myself staring out at the sea at this ungodly hour.
The water is calm, reflecting the sky’s cotton candy colors. If not for the seagulls dive-bombing the surface, I wouldn’t be able to tell where the ocean ended and the sky began. The air is still. As if it, too, is reluctant to wake up.
A pair of bottle-nosed dolphins silently pinwheel through the water. Three Frigatebirds searching for food follow in their wake. There is no breeze, no sound, and only open water for infinite nautical miles. I smile—satisfied that the early wake-up has paid off.
It always does.
Dreaming of spring (break)
It’s spring break—that annual week-long bridge between winter and spring, cold and warm. Spring break exclaims, ‘You’ve nearly made it through another year of sweltering soccer games and off-key school concerts! Home stretch, only eight weeks ‘til summer!’ This is my favorite time of year to travel, aside from one thing. Most of the country is on spring break, too.
Every year we ask ourselves, ‘Where can we go that everyone else isn’t going?’ Every year it seems that everyone is everywhere we are. This year will be different.
Why sail in Belize when the Caribbean islands are so much closer to home? Well, (and I’m preparing for backlash here) the British Virgin Islands are a circus, for one. It’s a Disney-fied version of Caribbean life that mainly caters to the lowest common denominator class of tourists regarding food and service. Whoa, that’s pretty harsh. On the flip side, the Caribbean is stunning, with the potential for wonderful photos once you airbrush out all those pesky people.
This brings me to my second point—the BVI is crowded. With over 500,000 people descending upon the islands last year alone, I’m surprised Virgin Gorda hasn’t exceeded its maximum capacity and sunk. Third, even reaching far-flung islands like Anegada is a cut-throat race for the last mooring ball. And, unless you’re competing in the BVI annual regatta, there is no reason to race on a sailing holiday.
My husband Daniel promises that sailing in Belize, with its abundance of sea life and remote, windswept islands, will be the antidote to Caribbean over-tourism. A place where my depleted brain can recharge.
Belize is the only country in Central America where English is the official language. It’s also Central America’s least populated country. It lies between Mexico and Guatemala with a coastline that’s home to hundreds of mostly uninhabited islands, off-shore atolls, mangrove forests, and an endless bounty of marine life. Belize’s Barrier Reef is the 2nd largest in the world—second only to that great one off the coast of Australia.
Comprised of seven protected areas, the reef was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. I’m glad Daniel made me pack my ridiculous-looking Snuba mask. If there’s ever a place to Snuba without fear of being spotted, it’s the least populated country in Central America.
There are 450 islands, or cayes (keys), along the Belizean coast. Some are for sale, should you have several hundred thousand dollars and a boatload of imagination to spare. While the cayes to the north of Belize City are popular destinations to sail in Belize, we opt for the quieter waters south of Placencia. This proves to be a blessing and a full-on Disney curse.
Reef Life in Belize
The shallow turquoise waters around the Belize Barrier Reef are distractingly beautiful. The sea’s astonishing clarity allows us to see fish, rays, and coral without having to get our toes wet. Mother Nature’s patterns are easily visible beneath the surface: the swaying branches of an orange sea fan, black stripes on a yellow Reef Butterflyfish, and raked sandy grooves on the sea floor. I look up and set my focus on the shore. Vibrant green palm fronds bend with the breeze, casually dangling over the water. Their snaking, windblown trunks firmly anchored to the beach.
The curse of being in a faraway and less-traveled, tropical environment is that there is nowhere to provision. I remind Daniel, (our provisioner-in-chief) that I hadn’t planned to starve to death on spring break this year. Don’t ask why we find ourselves in a position of being so egregiously understocked, but let’s just say I wasn’t invited into the supermarket on embarkation day. Big. Mistake.
By our third day at sea, we cast our rods, and pray to the fishing gods for help.
There’s something beautifully simple about living on the water. Sailing always reminds me that what stresses me out in the real world is not as overwhelming as I think. The built-in soundtrack of life at sea; birds, waves, and wind, is music to my citified ears. The colors are so vivid and change hue so often, I never get bored with the palette.
I like how it feels when the boat tightens as the wind finds its groove and fills the sail. It’s then that I find a seat at the bow and take inventory of the ever-changing scenery—a school of shimmery flying fish, an osprey guarding a sandy atoll, or a spotted eagle ray moving beneath us like an underwater butterfly.
The Belize Barrier Reef is alive and well in 2023. Long may that last.
Sailing in Belize: Cattyshack
I’m not sure who’s in charge of naming boats for Moorings, but I’d like the job. I can do better than Seas The Day, Rum ‘n’ Coke, and Abby Normal. Our catamaran’s name, Cattyshack, is only slightly less awful. But Cattyshack it is, and she serves us well for our week sailing in Belize.
Cattyshack is 45ft long with four bedrooms, four en-suite bathrooms, multiple outdoor viewing nooks (aka cocktail lounges), and lots of deck space to sunbathe and read. It has a large saloon with ample storage for all the food we’ve failed to bring. Cattyshack also has paddleboards, snorkeling equipment, fishing poles, and air conditioning. But Cattyshack’s most valuable assets are Raj and Christina—our captain and cook.
The Cattyshack Crew
Captain Raj has been sailing the Belize Barrier Reef his entire life and seems to know every sandbar, caye, and mangrove forest like the back of his Belizean hand. We’re ever impressed by his expertise, as sailing around the reef is tricky for even the most accomplished seamen. The depth of the water can shift from 75ft to 5ft within seconds, and I’m sure more than a few Seas The Days have been caught off-guard and run aground.
One night we are anchored well beyond the reef, completely exposed, when a large storm hits at 2am. I feel the heavy swells and see the lightning flash with my eyes shut. My coping mechanism is to hide under the covers and pretend it’s not happening. My husband excitedly heads above deck and out into the storm with Raj. Despite drawing the short straw to sleep in the upstairs saloon, our teenage son, Chase, snoozes right through it.
Master Chef
In the eerie stillness of the morning, we discover the only other two cats in the vicinity have crashed into each other, making us all the more grateful for Raj’s keen instincts.
Having a cook on board allows us to truly relax. And since our food supply is limited, we rely upon Christina’s skills to make it last. I didn’t need to be intuitive to note her displeasure with our amateur provisioning. We apologize as she continues to turn lemons into lemonade with each breakfast, lunch, and dinner. How she stretches our meager supplies into so many edible Belizean dishes is a mystery Gordon Ramsay couldn’t solve.
Thankfully both Christina and Raj are superior fishermen and share their catches with us. Our contribution is one enormous barracuda our friend Duncan reels in with well-deserved pride. Christina prepares it like the master chef she is, using an array of spices and coconut oil she brought on board. A veritable feast ensues.
Islands of Belize
Sailing is inherently simple. In theory, all one needs is a compass, wind, and a carefree spirit. A fishing rod helps. We learn to live on less throughout the week and savor each meal as if it’s our last. Raj takes us to a few islands with low-key restaurants that allow us to purchase produce and alcohol (at a considerable upcharge, naturally).
Are these escapades a part of the adventure? Definitely. Do they make for future blogging fodder? You know it. By the week’s end, no condiment gets left behind. I forage limes from the bottom of our tequila drinks and olives from our empty Bloody Mary tumblers. Waste not, want not, Belize-style.
We sail to Hideaway Caye early in the week, well before we know the limits of our food supply. Florida natives Dustin and Kim fell in love with Belize while on vacation one year and decided to leave the Sunshine State for good. Together they built an island paradise complete with a restaurant, bar, and a single pink and green guest cabana. Those searching for an off-the-grid experience in an already off-the-grid location should look no further than Hideaway Caye.
Raised wooden planks lit with tiny fairy lights lead us from the dock to Kim and Dustin’s thatched open-air bar. The menu is limited, serving mainly Queen Conch, which is one of the most celebrated foods in Belize. Conch season runs from October through June and Kim prepares this Belizean delicacy in two delectable ways. We devour her conch fritters and conch ceviche along with cocktails, and convivial banter.
Where to sail in Belize: Rendezvous Caye
After a storm-free night’s sleep, light breakfast, and leisurely sail, Rendezvous Caye comes into view. I take out my binoculars and focus on this narrow slip of an island, hardly believing that it once belonged to Ringo Starr. “The drummer from the Beatles!”, I tell Chase, who looks miffed. “The Beatles? One of the greatest bands of all time?”, I add. He still looks confused.
Ugh. Forget it.
I scan the length of the island, noticing osprey and other birds of prey in the trees. They don’t seem happy about our arrival. I know that look well, my mother makes the same face when she’s annoyed. I silently promise we won’t disturb their peace and hope they don’t see me as a mid-morning snack.
Three thatched umbrellas pop up from the water at the sandy tip of the island. I wonder where the cabana boys are hiding with my gin and tonic. The island looks completely abandoned. This could never happen in the Caribbean, I think as I struggle with my Snuba mask. Once firmly in place, I make my way towards the barren shore, noting where the osprey is perched before jumping in.
My son and his friend paddleboard while the rest of us swim. We spend a few hours as castaways, exploring, shelling, and playing beach cricket. Later on, a family from another cat, Texas Two Step (really, Moorings?), appears and joins the game.
As much as I complain about having to pack a bat, wicket, and a can of tennis balls on every vacation, beach cricket is always a crowd-pleaser. As the sun begins to wane, we say goodbye to Rendezvous and head back to the boat for sunset cocktails—my favorite activity of the day.
Approaching Ray Caye is like finding water after being lost in the desert for a week. A private island resort with pristine beaches, colorful, modest guest houses, and wait for it, a full-service restaurant and bar, Ray Caye is para- para- paradise. Get it, Chase? Coldplay! Paradise?
Lionfish Bar and Grill serves more than just conch, which in itself is a perfectly acceptable reason to love it. We descend upon it like feral cats, which annoys the resort’s legitimate guests. It doesn’t escape me that we manage to disturb so many people and various species of wildlife on our trip. Daniel gets experimental and orders lionfish cakes while I replenish my veggie quotient with island-grown arugula tossed with sweet cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, and red onion.
Once my belly is officially full, I head to the pool, order a Bloody Mary (more veggies!), and settle in for the afternoon. The kids seek out the island’s famous sea slide. The hours melt away.
The Rhythm of Boat Life
The days melt away, too. The rhythm of boat life is melodic and carefree. Early mornings are quiet and pensive. The sea picks up just as our caffeine kicks in, and we sail for a few hours towards the next caye. By midday, the sea is alive with activity, and we spot dolphins, rays, and tarpon from the deck. By late afternoon, we’d migrated to the upper deck for drinks. Each night we say this is the best sunset yet. Every night it is.
After dinner, we gaze up at the inky star-filled sky and revel in the quiet. The water rolls away from our boat like a red carpet on Oscar Night. Going home is going to hurt.
Before long, we’ve reached the end of the week, the end of our provisions, and for Christina, quite possibly, the end of her rope. Daniel defends his position by declaring we’ve had an overeating problem rather than an underprovisioning one.
Under the sea
It’s our final morning sailing in Belize. I force myself out of bed early, knowing this will be the last sunrise I choose to see for a while. The sea is pale pink, once again a reflection of the sky. In researching shades of pink, (no wonder it takes me a month to write a post) I learn that Benjamin Moore’s ‘First Light’ won ‘Color of the Year’ in 2020. Benjamin Moore’s color namer could teach the Mooring’s boat namer a thing or two.
I imagine the sea life teeming below me; the ever-colorful living reef, scorpionfish, parrotfish, and barracuda. I picture the brain coral, fire coral, and mushroom coral—all of which I’d seen clear as day with my trusty Snuba mask, which I’ve learned to love.
Two bottle-nosed dolphins break the surface in the distance. I pretend they are the same pair who welcomed me to Belize at sunrise one week ago. In Belize, there are treasures to be found both under the sea and above it.
I smile—satisfied that the early wake-up has once again paid off.
Croatia is one of the most alluring countries in Europe. I say that with conviction, having visited three times in the past decade. Why is Croatia’s magnetic pull so strong? It is the rich cultural roots, devastatingly beautiful scenery, and welcoming people, for a start. Read on to discover two of the best ways to explore Croatia.
“Land or sea, which is better?”, I’ve often been asked since returning from Croatia last month. Why don’t we have a friendly competition? Allow me to introduce the players.
The Land
The Istrian peninsula, in the northwestern corner of Croatia, is shared by three countries: Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy. While Croatia possesses the largest part of this heart-shaped land mass, Italian and Slovenian influences are strong. Italy is so easily accessible, that the seaside town of Rovinj offers day trips to Venice.
Istria’s landscape is carpeted in trellised vineyards and gnarled olive trees. Clusters of flowering oleander hug crumbling rock walls in colors that might inspire Nars’ next shade of lip gloss.
The hilltop village of Motovun has dense, oak forests filled with prized truffles. In Pula, a 1st century AD Roman amphitheater is the historic centerpiece of the city. Pula Arena now welcomes visitors, rather than gladiators.
Istria, a treasure trove of riches.
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Villa Barbara, in the center of Istria’s heart, is where we spent our week on land. The villa offered manageable drives to picturesque villages and local restaurants, while also providing on-property entertainment.
The Sea
With over 1200 islands, the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia has no trouble exceeding expectations. The islands of Croatia surrounding Dubrovnik are so tempting, and so sought-after, that we decided to seek adventures farther afield.
In both 2015 and 2018, we chartered a gulet, and navigated popular tourist routes. Either starting in Dubrovnik or Split, and visiting the islands of Hvar, Korčula, Brač, Mljet, and Vis, along the way. This summer, we started our journey in historic Šibenik, where the river Krka flows gently into the Adriatic Sea.
A gulet is a traditional wooden sailing vessel, usually with two or three masts. Many gulets have been repurposed as private charters to take visitors around the Mediterranean in comfort and luxury. For anyone raising an eyebrow in doubt, this is not your grandmother’s Celebrity cruise.
Accommodations in Croatia: Land
Set on nearly six acres, Villa Barbara has everything a large family gathering could want. Tennis and basketball courts, and a golf range, for the most active among us. Ping pong, foosball, billiards, and bicycles, for the slightly less active. A pool, sun loungers, and hot tub, for the essentially inactive (ummm, me).
Poolside, I would watch swallows dip into the water for a sneaky sip. I noticed the billowy clouds which would later create dramatic sunsets. The property is surrounded by stone walls that are edged with hydrangeas exploding in pink. The air is heavily scented with lavender and rosemary.
Villa Barbara is modern, with modern amenities, and easily accommodated our group of 13. It has six bedrooms, seven bathrooms, and an enormous open-plan living space.
Space—a non-negotiable requirement when traveling with family. Floor-to-ceiling windows open to the pool, which made indoor and outdoor life blur together.
Accommodations in Croatia: Sea
If Villa Barbara struck the utopian combination of indoor and outdoor living, the gulet Perla is full-tilt outdoor life. 99% of our waking hours were enjoyed on deck in the Croatian summer sun.
Roughly 100ft in length, the Perla has seven cabins (each with an en-suite bathroom). Finding that all-important personal space is hardly an issue. There are soft lounge cushions on the deck towards the bow, and a wide, shaded daybed, at the stern.
In between, are several other areas to (quite, literally) check out. Some are just right for coffee, others for late-afternoon cocktails. There is a spot at the very tip of the bow to recreate that famous Titanic moment. (Not the one with the troublesome iceberg).
Our days at sea took on a rhythmic flow—a natural migration from the stern to the bow. Around 8am, we’d emerge from below deck for breakfast, then flop onto the daybed as the crew pulled up anchor. Some of us would begin to head towards the sun loungers, with books, coffee, and SPF 50, in hand.
A siesta would beckon around 2pm, induced by a hearty lunch and a few bottles of white wine. By late afternoon, we would settle towards the bow, ready to anchor and let the afternoon activities begin.
The sea has its own agenda. Glassy, flat, and still in the morning, as if it too, had trouble waking up. Breezes would gather, and by midday, the sea is a hive of activity. Naturally, easing the passage for sailboats and schooners alike. Stillness returns in the late afternoon—the color of the water mirroring the colors in the sky.
A gulet is a playground on the sea. I didn’t have to be ten years old to enjoy jumping from the deck into the gentle, turquoise waters. (However, I do think there should be an age limit on backflips).
The Perla has more toys than necessary, as the sea itself provides endless entertainment. Nevertheless, we’d make constant use of the kayak, two stand-up paddle boards, waterskis, wake board, and donut. Snorkeling equipment, and colorful noodles, are ready and waiting for the anchor to drop.
Exploring Croatia: Land
It is always hard to leave the grounds of a great villa, and many of us didn’t. Those of us interested in touring the countryside and seaside ports of Istria took small trips to satiate our curiosity. (aka: bribing kids with gelato to join).
Rovinj is undoubtedly the star of Istria’s coast. A fishing port with narrow, cobbled pedestrian-only streets to explore. A marina filled with super yachts to ogle over. A Michelin-starred restaurant at which to dine, and a storybook old town to over-photograph.
Pealing church bells would mark the hour. At noon, Rovinj is at the height of activity (and heat) which is an excellent time to leave. I took one last look upwards at the looming church tower punctuating the cloudless sky.
For a moment I wished I was still at the top of the town, admiring the Basilica of St Euphemia’s, and stealing licks from my niece’s gelato. But, the villa pool called, as did lunch, and a glass of chilled rosé.
There was far more to see in Istria than time would allow. Like, medieval Motovun which hovers at 900 feet above sea level. Also, the settlement of Hum, is known for being Croatia’s smallest village, with a population of 30.
Exploring Croatia: Sea
On land, we explored Croatia by car, finding villages with the help of Google maps and Waze. Karlo, Perla’s expert captain, and his skilled crew steered us directly to islands in the Adriatic Sea. It is the ultimate way to get a full sense of the coast. However, it’s not the ultimate way to burn calories. Note to self: turn off the step counter app at embarkation.
Life at sea is inherently nomadic. A constant and mesmerizing world streaming like BBC’s Blue Planet docu-series. Every so often, the barren landscape is interrupted by the distinct terracotta roof tiles of a village. On a lucky day, we might spot a pod of dolphins, or a lone tuna thrashing through the water’s surface.
The beauty of visiting some of Croatia’s lesser-known islands is the lack of tourist traps, cruise ships, and tatty souvenir shops. Instead, insert gelato shops, lined with locals still dripping in wet bathing suits. Insert kids selling shells, rather than lemonade, along the waterfront.
Croatia’s best places to visit; a shortlist
Zlarin: I am inclined to deny the existence of Zlarin, for fear that tourists will overrun it. Fishing boats, smaller than most American SUVs, bob gently in the marina, their Yamaha engines pulled up for the day.
Mustard yellow paint peels from Zlarin’s humble church tower. Kids’ bike bells ding as they race past their grandfathers playing bocce in the town square. A fairytale existence, playing out in real-time, against a dramatic sunset on this small island. Zlarin—my favorite Croatian island.
Murter: Murter doesn’t get the airtime of Korčula or Brač, but this island is as scenic as any other. And, without the heaving crowds. Its main town is confusingly also called Murter. At dusk, we strolled leisurely along the harbor, noticing kids playing with old-school toys, rather than new-age gadgets.
I could hear music escaping from windows embellished by sea foam-colored shutters. Restaurant patios began to fill up with salty, sandy diners, just in from a day at the beach. Murter—my favorite Croatian island.
Primošten: Cruising into the harbor of Primošten just might be my favorite moment of the trip. The sun was just beginning to set behind this medieval fishing village and created a fiery orange aura around it. We were all enchanted, nearly silent, as the sun dipped further and cast the island into a black silhouette.
While I could have watched the island from the boat all night, the town beckoned. In August, Primošten has a buzzy summer holiday vibe, and restaurant tables pool into the streets. The sound of laughter, lapping waves, and clinking glasses fill the air.
Our group dispersed, some on the hunt for gelato, others for a pint of Guinness. Primošten—my favoite Croatian island.
Feasting in Croatia: Land
Understanding a place by its regional spices, local ingredients, and culinary traditions, is one of the more entertaining ways to explore a country. It would be somehow unfair of me to ignore Croatia’s viticultural landscape.
The wines produced in Croatia naturally accompany the food—and are a part of the country’s culinary history and soul. Croatia—consider me your humble student.
Some evenings, we hired a local chef on-site for dinner. On other nights we would cook for ourselves. We would form groups. For reasons that need no explanation, husbands, wives, and kids, from the same family were not grouped together.
Home cooking presented yet another interesting way to explore the Istrian culture. Supermarket culture, that is. Countless trips to Plodine (the Safeway of Croatia) ensued. We hunted unsuccessfully for mint and basil. We received frantic gestures from Croatian shoppers—our mysterious supermarket faux pas to be forever unknown.
Roasted suckling pig at the villa was a dinner highlight. Known in Croatian as Odojak na ranznju, it was not only delicious but a large form of entertainment. The kids watched it rotate for hours on the spit.
Meneghetti Wine Hotel and Winery, Bale, Croatia
A wine hotel? If I had known such a place existed, I would have visited Istria years ago. With an amphitheater of vines, centuries-old, stone buildings, a Relais & Chateaux restaurant, and a 15-suite hotel, Meneghetti is an oenophile’s paradise.
We decided to have a pre-lunch wine tasting. This is a wine hotel, after all. We lost ourselves in the light, pale, citrus, notes of Malvazija Istarska (Malvasia), among other varieties.
An hour later, we stumbled to our shaded spot at Oliveto. Light breezes ruffled the patio umbrellas. Waiters moved effortlessly from table to table. They delivered beautifully prepared entrées, like pasta with shaved summer truffles, veal Osso Bucco, and bottles of Meneghetti wine.
We were overdue for a long, boozy, lunch, and the al fresco patio at Oliveto beckoned us to linger.
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Hiša Franko, Kobarid, Slovenia
Would you drive three hours for a three-hour lunch? How about crossing an international border to get there? If it were served, would you try bear paw? It turns out there is very little I won’t do or try, when it comes to food. Especially when that food is created by one of the world’s top chefs, Ana Roš.
Our prix-fixe, 23-course lunch at Hiša Franko, (currently ranked the 38th best restaurant in the world, with two-Michelin stars), is worthy of a post of its own. Watch this space.
A dining experience like this requires a culinary leap of faith. I placed myself in Chef Ana’s skillful hands, and let go of any food perceptions I harbored.
Hiša Franko glows from the inside out. The farmhouse exterior has warm, salmon-colored walls, while the interior is painted a rich, tomato red. The red walls, and avant-garde lighting, highlight the eclectic artwork that adorns them. Flowers are in abundance, and the verdant green mountains are particularly rich against the blue sky.
Chef Ana describes her menu, called Reincarnation, as ‘curious, fun, and confusing’. She exceeds on all points in the most enticing ways. Ana’s food is as artistic and innovative as the paintings we sat beside, perhaps even more.
The corn beignet with fermented cottage cheese, smoked trout, and wild chives, was an unexpected standout, among many unexpected standouts. Tortilla with alpine mole, rowan berry oil, fermented beets, and roasted lamb, was another. But perhaps, nothing surprised us more than chestnut dumpling filled with bear paw, topped with a forest consommé.
My 17-year-old daughter asked if it was really a bear paw. It was a question the rest of us were too intimidated to ask. And indeed, it was. Wild brown bears overpopulate Slovenia, so bear hunting is allowed (and actually provides very tender meat.)
Hiša Franko: A journey for the most adventurous foodies.
Feasting in Croatia: Sea
Our days on the Perla would revolve around food. One perk of boat life is never having to worry about finding a dinner reservation for thirteen. Not to mention, overordering, underordering, or miscalculating the currency conversions.
Our talented chef, Boke, understood our dining style from the first day. That is not to be underestimated when you consider that he must cater to different nationalities, eating habits, food allergies, and tastes, every week.
Mornings would start with the smell of bacon (no one is allergic to bacon). A continental-style breakfast of yogurts, cereals, fresh-cut fruit, and eggs, would follow.
Lunch was served around 130pm, and might include a salad of local peppers with zesty onions, feta, and olives. Filets of local monkfish or other local fish would grace the table.
We devoured hearty bread that stood up to the Istrian olive oil we would slather it in. Boke would always surprise us with a simple dessert to top off the meal. By 230pm, I often lapsed into a food coma.
Dinner, typically served between 8-9pm, was my favorite meal. By then we had all showered off the day’s salt water and sun and were ready to reminisce about the day’s antics. Some nights we would have simply grilled meats, with salads, and vegetables.
Other dinners were fish-based, like Croatian Shark (dogfish), or swordfish. Each night, Boke would create a surprise dessert that satisfied those of us with a demanding sweet tooth (re: everyone).
Land or Sea, who wins?
One could argue neither wins, as it comes down to personal tastes. Both, however, gave me permission to slow down and to be pulled out of my daily routine. Even if only for a few weeks. Permission to relax, engage with my kids, play games, and get lost in thought. Isn’t that the point of a well-earned holiday with family we may not have seen in far too long?
I wonder where I draw my energy from. Is it the land, or the sea? Do I prefer a fixed, or a nomadic, life? Would I ever eat bear paw again? These are questions I am happy to keep pondering. Maybe, one more visit to Croatia will help.
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Author’s Note: I’ve cruised the islands of Croatia multiple times. And have formed a wonderful relationship with the owners of Adriatic Cruising, who own a fleet of four lovely gulets. If you have any interest in being introduced, please contact me. My email is: [email protected] and I will happily put you in touch.
Where will you find yourself next? Just click:
Tack Dubrovnik on to your Adriatic adventure and stay at, hidden-in-plain-sight, Villa Dubrovnik.
Montenegro is practically next door. Consider a stay at the 15th c. island village—Aman Sveti Stefan.
Prefer to sail in the Caribbean? The Windward Islands are calling.
Nearly three years to the day of our first sailing trip along the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia, we found ourselves there again. The same boat, but a new captain, crew, islands, bays, and coves to explore. Not too much had changed there in those three years, and in the best possible way. Swooping seagulls, secluded island villages, schools of iridescent fish, and the gentle flapping of the Croatian flag off the stern of the boat as we motored along in the warm, fresh breezes off the coast.
All of the things we couldn’t stop thinking about since our first trip in 2015, and were looking forward to experiencing again. Arguably, a few more tourists had descended upon the country, but it still felt like it was ours to discover.
Until Croatia, we had never taken the same trip twice. It’s a big world, and we love traveling to new countries, cities, towns, and villages. It seemed a poor use of a short life of travel to do the same trip again. But something about sailing on a beautiful, wooden gulet—all of our needs taken care of by a capable and convivial crew—and living life on the water for a week, was worth a do-over.
Sailing Croatia: Gulet Life
Maybe the allure of sailing as a mode of travel is simply a contrast to my typically nature-starved life. The idea of straying off the grid, gliding along the sea effortlessly, all the while admiring what Mother Nature has to offer, is liberating. The landscape, islands, and villages bathed in amber as the sun begins its descent each evening, is just one memory I had seared in my mind from three years ago.
Our first sunset on the boat was after a short motor to a quiet bay off the island of Jaklijan. The sky went through a frenzy of vibrant colors before eventually settling on a supercharged array of deep purples and hot pinks. With every passing minute, I thought the sunset couldn’t get better, and yet somehow, it did. It was a strong debut to a week of dramatic skies, day and night, each sunset and sunrise different and yet equally mesmerizing.
Sailing Croatia on The Kadena
Part of what makes boat life so unique is that everything you need and want is within reach and sailing along with you each day. Our lovely gulet, the Kadena, was a gorgeous wooden sailboat, immaculately cared for by the captain and crew. Originally built in 2000, but refit in 2017, the Kadena is 105ft long with six berths that can accommodate up to 12 guests, with room for two extra kids if need be. Stately cabins, en suite bathrooms, airy and open seating areas indoors and out, as well as a wood-paneled master cabin that is especially spacious. It is floating luxury at its best.
My favorite spot on the Kadena, without a doubt, is the covered day bed at the stern of the boat. The wide soft cushions are the perfect spot for a shady nap or a spot to read while never losing sight of the scenery or the feel of the breeze.
It happens that the owner’s son, Tom, was our captain for the week. With our talented and accommodating chef, Boris, as well as the two other endearing crew members, Jean and Ivan, there was very little we needed to think about aside from taking advantage of the sea, and the views, and wondering from which bay we should enjoy our cocktails each evening.
Our boat came equipped with aquatic toys of every kind: snorkeling gear, two stand-up paddle boards, a two-person kayak, a tube, and waterskis.
The kids screeched and squealed while being pulled in circles at breakneck speed sitting in a large floating donut. Crewman Jean, commanding the dinghy, intuitively accommodated the boat’s speed based on each child’s age and his or her level of adventure.
Each day, after a few hours of either motoring or sailing, we would anchor, and the kids would immediately hurl themselves off the boat for the remainder of the day, jumping and diving, only stopping to eat meals. The crew rings a bell when it’s meal time and the reaction is classically Pavlovian!
The grown-ups were equally ready to take advantage of the water toys, but also spent hours on the cushy sun loungers that dotted the top deck, played cards, read, and snoozed in peace while the kids repeatedly jumped ship.
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Chef Boris
The food on the boat was simple, yet inspired, Chef Boris created beautiful three-course meals of freshly caught fish like sea bass, monkfish, and swordfish, accompanied by Mediterranean salads and fresh vegetables. The meals were topped off with ice cream or homemade desserts. He was careful to take our dietary restrictions into careful consideration and came up with creative alternatives when necessary.
Breakfasts were a lovely array of either scrambled eggs, bacon, or crépes with Nutella, Greek yogurts, fresh fruit, granola, meats, and cheeses. Breakfast was certainly taken to a new level, enhanced by warm breezes as we motored along each morning while we ate. Thankfully there were cappuccinos, teas, and other caffeine-charged drinks on hand for those who needed an extra boost to become human each morning.
Our days were guided by whim, the itinerary having been set and discussed in advance with the captain, but able to be modified should we want to change course. Sailing, in my eyes, is one of the most free-ing ways to spend a day. At any given moment we passed island towns puddled together with their omnipresent terracotta rooftops and stone churches, the limestone houses looked like tiny ruby-topped jewel boxes.
The circadian rhythms of our days were enchanting, each 24-hour period seemingly the same, but with the ever-changing scenery, were nothing at all alike. However, anyone accustomed to getting in 10,000 steps a day might reconsider this type of holiday, as I may have topped out at around 50 daily.
Sailing Croatia: Jaklijan to Mljet
Mljet was an island we had wanted to visit again as it seemed like such a well-kept secret back in 2015. Mljet is unique in that it is a mountainous Croatian national park and is home to many large beautiful lakes. Once on shore, you can rent bicycles and take your time winding up and down the rolling hills towards the lakes before a well-deserved swim.
A good way to make up for the lack of steps! When we pulled into the cove, we couldn’t help but notice the number of superyachts, sailboats, and catamarans that were already there. I guess the secret of Mljet is officially out, but it didn’t detract from the gorgeous and lush scenery Mljet had to offer.
The different shades of the Adriatic Sea were hypnotic, and you’d often see schools of glittery fish create a tornado of activity as you peered over the edge of the boat, facilitated a little by the bits of crusty leftover bread the kids would throw over the edge. By 6pm, the ripples on the water were highlighted by the descending sun and looked like a million twinkling stars dancing on the surface of the sea. Color and light, the main actors in the drama of the holiday, are never the same from one day to the next.
After a full afternoon of paddle boarding, water-skiing, and diving off the boat, the sun began to edge out the clouds, creating deep intense oranges and then rich purples that saturated the sky. It created a dramatic silhouette against the mountainous backdrop. Worthy of a cocktail moment, the crew was very happy to mix up some gin and tonics to toast the fading sun and its magical light.
Island hopping Through Croatia
On our way to the island of Scedero the next morning, we sat on the sun loungers at the front of the boat and caught sight of skillful kite surfers who were chasing the wind along the Croatian mainland in the distance. Scedero is a tiny island, even by Croatian standards, with only two bays in which to anchor, and as of 1999 has had only one inhabitant. There was a small beach shack/restaurant and little local kids, some half-naked, frolicking in the water. An old-fashioned feeling of bygone days pervaded the scene.
We took the kayak to the beachfront and in only ten minutes hiked up and over to the other side of the island where the sea was vast and uninterrupted by other islands. A single boat with its crisp white sail was keeling in the distance — the tranquility was palpable, the only sound being a lone frigate bird squawking nearby. The strong scent of wild rosemary accompanied me on the walk, all the more noticeable because life at sea generally seems to lack smell altogether.
Discovering Colma
One especially exciting part of boat life is suddenly catching a glimpse of a well-hidden cove, the only signs of occupancy being the tops of the tall sailboat masts hovering above the tree line. It made me feel like an explorer on a mission. We motored towards the island of Hvar, and hugged the fertile coastline with its rows of terraced vineyards, which then changed to stretches of the sheer rock face, and severely windblown trees that appeared to live forever horizontally. The landscape was broken only by the occasional lighthouse. Our destination was a tiny cove called Luka Vela Garska.
Luka Vela Garska was a quiet cove on the island of Hvar, and just a ten-minute dinghy ride to lively Hvar Town. The true highlight of Luka Vela Garska was the intimate beach restaurant, Colma. Only accessible by boats, we either swam, kayaked, or paddle-boarded to spend a few sunset hours with cocktails in hand, no shoes necessary!
Colma was so irresistibly simple—thatched beach umbrellas with wooden platform loungers that jut out over the rocky edge and hover above the water. Music was a mix of Depeche Mode, The Cure, and Prince — it was as if they knew we were coming. The vibe was low-key beach chic. The kids swam and ordered banana shakes while the grown-ups indulged with Aperol Spritzes and Coronas. It was a perfect way to both relax and gear up for the night ahead.
Sailing to Hvar Town: Peaceful by day, party by night
Hvar Town is a place that gains energy as the sun subsides. The tourists and families start to disappear and the nightclubs and bars slowly dominate the island. If you want to explore the narrow and wonderfully steep side streets of the town, it is worthwhile getting there early and meandering before the change takes over.
Restaurants abound, and outdoor tables practically fill up the entire width of the cobblestone passageways. It is still charming then, and up until about sunset, the light plays off the large church in the main square and bounces off the limestone facades that surround you. But be warned, soon it will become a free for all—bachelor parties roaming the streets and club promoters passing out leaflets for Hvar’s ‘premiere’ clubs. South Beach, meet Hvar.
We did end up leaving the kids behind with our parents that night and spent a few hours in and out of the bars, eventually ending up at a beach bar called Hula Hula. Earlier that day, a famous pop singer named Oliver Dragojevic, a national treasure, we were told, had passed away. Thousands of red flares went up throughout the harbor and along the coast in his honor. Croatians were singing his songs and dancing in inebriated groups, arms linked in memory of their cherished singer.
We were swept up in a wave of national pride. At 10pm sharp, the beach bar, throbbing with a DJ and 500 or more people, suddenly shut down, as it was being entirely reserved for the staff to have their own tribute party. We somehow evaded the mandatory evacuation and danced with the bartenders and waitresses past midnight, doing our best to sing along to the tunes of their beloved Oliver.
Sailing To Stunning Korcula
One of the few islands we revisited from our first sailing trip in 2015 was the enchanted island of Korcula. It was in Korcula that we spent our one and only marina night, versus moored or anchored in a bay. This gave us the opportunity to come and go from the boat and explore the island at our leisure.
The layout of Korcula Town resembles that of a fish bone. One central street divides the town and then dozens of narrow passages protrude from the center. Korcula has definitely become a hot tourist spot, and it shows in the unfortunate number of Game of Thrones references, tacky souvenir shops, and non-descript boutiques. However, it is still worth a visit, as it is just such a stunning place, and the golden light at sunset seems to set the entire town aglow.
The long promenade along the outer perimeter of the island is dotted with dozens of pretty little restaurants and open-air cafes, each with waterside tables boasting gorgeous views of the Adriatic Sea. The promenade curves along the water towards a large stone turret, where you can climb to the top along a small ladder and enjoy sunset drinks from above.
Unfortunately for us, no kids were allowed, so we sat waterside and ordered mojitos and smoothies before heading back to the boat for dinner. At one point while wandering through the back streets, I caught sight of an elderly Croatian woman high above the thrall, hanging her laundry, oblivious to the chaos below. It was a sweet reminder that there is still real life going on in this seemingly storybook village.
Life between the sea and the sky
During breakfast that last morning, we motored past hillsides of vineyards that resembled a patchwork quilt of bright yellows and luscious greens, with clusters of red rooftops set up into the hills, breaking through the landscape like a spark. It was this carefree lifestyle that had me hooked and will likely have me coming back. As with any great holiday, the first few days seemed to linger slowly and leisurely, allowing us to settle into vacation mode. But then annoyingly, they started to gain momentum, and I found myself wondering how it was almost over.
We sailed into the sun, having decided to spend our final night back in the cove of Jakljan, where we stayed our first night—ending the journey as we began. At this time of day, the colors of the scenery played tricks on our minds. Looking in the direction the sun was facing, all the edges of the islands and mountains were sharply defined, the colors vivid and intense. Turning around, it was quite the opposite, the overlapping islands blurred together in various shades of blues and grays, no definition whatsoever, a wash of pastels, the Adriatic a subtle shade different than the islands and sky.
Only the mast of a lone white passing catamaran broke the line of the horizon. It was surreal. As if to remind us that no two nights are alike. At sunset, the sky darkened to nearly black, then opened up with a downpour of biblical proportions. I was sure it was sabotage, as I had my heart set on taking some posed family pics. We huddled under the dining canvas for 30 minutes, assuming that this was our fate for the night, but then the rain stopped and another sky appeared in dramatic and tranquil light. Pictures ensued, much to my husband’s dismay.
Color most certainly defines Croatia—blues, greens, whites, and naturals. But perhaps gold is the most critical color in the palette, it being the catalyst for the change in all of the other colors. The golden light is what creates the variables in the blues, the nuances in the limestone, and the richness of the greens. The light is then what creates the thousands of other unnamed, undefinable colors that you don’t even realize you are seeing.
We spent a week adrift along the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia. I said I’d never take the same trip twice, and I was happy to prove myself wrong.Or maybe three’s a charm, as we are already booked for summer 2021.
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Find it:
If you are interested in chartering the Kadena, please contact me via the ‘Contact and Subscribe’ link at the top of the page. I will be more than thrilled to e-introduce you to Captain Tom in order to make direct booking arrangements.
If you have the time to tack on a few days in Dubrovnik, Villa Dubrovnik is a lovely hotel that sits on the edge of the sea. Curious about an itinerary that starts in Split and ends in Dubrovnik? Read exactly why we booked ourselves back on the Kadena a few years later.
