Tag: BVI

 Catherine’s Café, The Best Lunch in Antigua

Some days I can hardly remember what I ate for breakfast. On other days, I can’t remember what book I am reading. More often than I’d like to admit, I can’t remember what day of the week it is. What I do remember though, is the best beach lunch I had on the island of Antigua nearly 15 years ago.

My husband, our daughter (who was then nine months old), and I, traveled to this charming Caribbean island in the West Indies for the wedding of close friends. Being new parents, and tired parents, we tried to keep up with all of the festivities of the young, hip, and childless wedding crowd.

We made a decent effort, and really placed it all on the line for a festive lunch at Catherine’s Café, knowing full well that daytime drinking, and parenting an infant, could be a disastrous combination.

Catherine’s has since changed locations, from a waterfront deck at English Harbour, to a beachside one, at the tip of Pigeon Beach, overlooking Falmouth Harbour.

However, much remains unchanged — the salty, seaside vibe, the perfectly-paced tempo of the music, and the dreamy lull of the breezy sea air. So what if I can’t remember exactly what Catherine’s looked like back then, or what I ate? The feeling was the memory. And it felt right, again.

Booked on a feeling at Catherine’s Cafe

When we decided to book a family trip to Antigua, it was based on emotion and memory. My husband and I had two priorities, lunch at Catherine’s Café, and sunset views at Shirley Heights Lookout.

For those who know us, it isn’t completely surprising that we would plan a trip around a restaurant, or a view, or a feeling. Not that our knee-jerk reactions to travel haven’t occasionally led us astray. I have booked a hotel in the wrong part of a city, or the country, or unknowingly during the rainy season. Whoops.

More often than not, however, I do the research and the planning. Yet, being surprised by a mistake can sometimes be exciting. It can also cause marital stress, but that’s a different post.

Set sail for Antigua

The islands of Antigua and Barbuda were settled by the English in 1632 and eventually gained independence in 1981. Antigua has much to offer tourists, yet for some reason doesn’t feel ruled by tourism.

In 2016, Antigua became home to a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nelson’s Dockyard. In order to be deemed a UNESCO site, a place or landmark must have ‘cultural, historical and/or natural significance’. It is legally protected from then onwards for future generations to enjoy. We walked around this small piece of history at dusk, the orange glow of the sun simmering in the inky sea—mere inches from some of the world’s most expensive and drool-inducing yachts.

Nelson’s Dockyard is also the home to Antigua’s famous annual sailing regatta. Drawing competitors worldwide, and heading into its 53rd year, I was amused to discover the inspiration for the famous week-long regatta.

As the story goes—in 1968, a group of island hoteliers and friends thought they could extend the winter tourist season by adding on the regatta. This clever idea has since become a strong part of Antigua’s heritage and culture, not to mention an excuse to check out the 150-200 yachts that descend upon the island each year.

Antigua: the Nature Island

Despite the glamorous yachts and sailboats, Antigua is remarkably chill in attitude, content to allow its natural wonders to take center stage. These natural wonders, many small and hidden, are patiently waiting for you if you take the time to really look.

We kayaked along shallow serpentine inlets that opened up to a large, serene pond. Gray herons swooped noisily over our heads, while clusters of flying fish paralleled our route. I collected microscopic, pale pink, jewel-like shells. Both full, and double, rainbows appeared after nearly every passing shower.

Early one morning on the beach, I watched Piers Morgan (yes, that Piers Morgan) take a photo of his wife in front of a particularly vibrant double rainbow. Nearby, an Antiguan woman from the resort murmured, “We see that every day.” I wasn’t sure if she meant the double rainbow or Piers Morgan. A unique daily sighting, either way.

Zooming in on my photos a little later, I laughed as I realized that my shot of the double rainbow captured Piers taking a photo of it, too. When I checked out his Instagram feed, sure enough, there it was. How meta.

Overall, there is a kind of beauty in Antigua that can only be revealed by allowing the mind to stop thinking and just look. A slow burn of beauty, a marathon, rather than a sprint, of beauty. (Note to self: you have officially overused the word ‘beauty’. Find thesaurus.)

Antigua’s Shirley Heights Lookout

Once a military lookout and gun battery, Shirley Heights is now a party every Sunday night for locals and tourists alike. In order to fully appreciate this sunset celebration, you need to get past the expected cheesiness; the loud reggae band, the cheap drinks, the throng of (sometimes not so civilized) tourists, and just go for it. Why? Because Shirley Heights, at 490 feet and with 360-degree views, offers the best panorama of the island, hands down.

If you are at all like us, and only interested in the sunset, go early, grab a drink, and a coveted spot on the ledge that overlooks Falmouth and English Harbours. Then, hold your ground.

We watched as a rainstorm swept over the harbors, obscuring them completely, and then clear just in time for the sun to re-introduce itself and descend. Despite the drizzle, we stayed put, refusing to give up our perch. It was worth getting a little wet, the sky was mesmerizing and dramatic, offering up prismatic colors and textures that are hard to define. Shirley Heights, fifteen years later, and still on top of its game.

Taking it slowly in Antigua

Many Caribbean islands have their version of the boozy beach lunch. St Barths has the colorful daytime club/restaurant, Nikki Beach. The under-the-radar glam island of Mustique is known for its equally understated beach bar, Basil’s.

Yet, there is something about the inherent low-key-ness of Antigua that especially lends itself to dedicating long sun-framed hours to lunch. I love the natural, lazy blurring of meals when lunch is leisurely and sometimes surprisingly turns into dinner. The un-rushed antithesis of real life. Again, giving time to lingering, watching, and absorbing.

Being responsible parents, we decided to taxi to Catherine’s from our resort. Antigua is particularly hilly, with narrow roads, and it is difficult to tell what is around each corner, whether that be a secluded cove, a colorful church, or a careening truck. We thought it best to leave the driving to an island expert.

Catherine’s, at last

A wooden planked path past a bakery and a boutique led us to our destination—open-air, louver-shuttered, sea-breezy Catherine’s Café. Ahead, Veuve Clicquot branded, butter yellow umbrellas popped brilliantly from the sand, adding another layer of warmth to the already warm atmosphere.

Inviting circular loungers were haphazardly scattered around, and large Neem trees offered shade. Naked, sun-kissed French toddlers ran amok. I could tell right away that the new Catherine’s was going to be worth rediscovering.

We arrived at the unfashionably early time of 12pm, which afforded us a chance to snag a prime beachfront table. Our shoes promptly came off as we settled into the plush chairs, and into the scene. The tables filled up quickly, and we overheard one entitled guest try to buy their way to a better table position. He was really going to kill the vibe, I thought. Then I smiled and relaxed. My uncool, early timing had paid off.

Later, I overheard another guest pompously remark, “I’ve gone off Ott in favor of Whispering Angel.” A few hours at lunch here and I could easily start a new instagram account: OverheardAntigua. Maybe it already exists? 

Damien, the charmer

I introduced myself to Damien, the effervescent bartender, and asked if he would mind if I used his photo on my site. Happy to oblige, he smiled, posed, then told us about his favorite drinks.

From behind the row of garnish-filled mason jars, he produced an extensive gin and tonic menu. I think he knew we were there for the long haul. Drinks-wise, Damien nailed it. Never doubt a Caribbean bartender on his own turf.

Even the color palette of Catherine’s—ecru, ivory, eggshell blue, and foamy green—seemed designed to compliment the beachscape. Tightly woven Chilewich mats, pale rattan chairs and oversized dangling, domed lampshades added to the gentle vibe of the café. The soundtrack— the ebb and flow of the sea, the soft clinking of glasses, squealing babies, and the best sound of all, the sound of true vacation laziness.

The background music that particular day was Jamiroquai, and I was suddenly overcome with nostalgia, that English funk and acid jazz brought me back to the early 90s in NYC. I love when music attaches itself to a moment. A past memory and a current one collide in the best way.

The Parisian-influenced menu made us feel like we were on a French island rather than a former British one. Halfway into our meal, a group of 15 gorgeous, tanned, twenty-somethings sat at the table beside us. The four of us quietly argued whether they were mega-yacht owners’ kids, or the cast of the TV show, Below Deck.

After a bit of research (aka questioning the waiter), we discovered they were, indeed, the crew from one of the yachts in the harbor. I kept a sharp eye on my daughter who had already fallen in love with a ruggedly handsome deckhand sitting at the head of the table.

Choices at Catherine’s

We indulged in almost everything the menu had to offer. The roast chicken was artfully placed on a slice of layered potatoes. Freshly diced tuna tartare was garnished with a touch of fennel and greens—another standout. The gazpacho was almost too pretty to eat.

A cheese course seemed important to complete the meal, or maybe just to elongate it. The baguettes were freshly baked, with perfectly salted, creamy French butter served alongside, and cut on-demand at a central area that also doubled as the barista station.

The service might have been a little snail-paced that day, but those who complained missed out on the very reason for lunching at a place like Catherine’s in the first place. It is the long meal, the marathon of courses, and the multiple bottles of wine, that make the boozy lunch a boozy lunch. The sooner one gets on island time, the better. 

Memories of Antigua

So, while my memory is unreliable at the best of times, I have learned, above all else, to trust my feelings. Thank you, Catherine and Shirley, for living up to expectations, and even exceeding them in some ways. As an aside, today is Tuesday, I had a peanut butter banana smoothie for breakfast, and am currently reading The Hungry Tide, by Amitav Ghosh.

Long live the boozy beach lunch. 

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