Tag: Dining

  • On Being Imperfecto, The DC Restaurant Review

    On Being Imperfecto, The DC Restaurant Review

    Imperfecto fired up an already hot trending restaurant scene in Washington DC. Today, Chef Enrique Limardo has three fabulous DC restaurants to rule over in his crisp, chef’s whites. What makes Imperfecto so darn near perfect? It’s all in the details.


    DC is a culinary wasteland. 

    This was my first thought when we moved to DC from Tokyo in 2010. It isn’t because I’d spent nearly four years in the world’s foodie capital (with 202 Michelin stars, the most of any city, I dare you to disagree). It isn’t because I’d lived in NYC and eaten my way through every ethnic culture known to mankind. And, it isn’t because I’m a food snob.

    It’s because at our first DC restaurant experience (and I concede that choosing Japanese was a bad opening move) I saw a line cook squeeze wasabi onto a sliver of ahi tuna from a plastic ketchup container. If you don’t recognize the issue here, please click that little red circle on the top left of your screen. 

    Maybe I am a food snob.

    overhead DC

    DC’s culinary landscape has shifted dramatically since then. At one time, Washington DC restaurants were considered stuffy, stale, and lacking in identity. The change over the last decade has been gradual, yet on a clear upward trajectory. Restaurant standouts like Pineapple and Pearls, Rose’s Luxury, and Komi influenced the scene early on. Michelin didn’t even deem DC worthy of its own guide until 2016. 

    That’s about when DC woke up and started to get cooking. 

    For us, you could say it was perfect timing. Or, depending upon how you see it—ever so slightly imperfect.

    Imperfecto food

    Introducing Imperfecto

    Imperfecto isn’t even a speck on the Epicurean map when we unpack our worldly possessions in the nation’s capital. Yet, I’d be surprised if the seeds of Chef Enrique Limardo’s restaurant venture weren’t already planted.

    Chef Enrique Limardo made his DC restaurant debut with Seven Reasons in 2019 after being the Executive Chef at the highly-acclaimed Alma Cocina Latina, in Baltimore. Before then, he honed his creative talents in Spain and in Venezuela—his home country. Along the way, Chef Limardo’s intent on globalizing the kitchen gained traction and attention. He lovingly fuses flavors and ingredients from the Mediterranean to the Amazon.

    Imperfecto amuse bouche

    DC’s West End neighborhood is pretty far from the Amazon. So named because it sits at the westernmost end of DC’s original L’Enfant Urban Plan, West End is now a virtual hotbed of luxury hotels and restaurants. This may be due, in part, to the long ago initiative “to bring life to a declining part of the city.” A successful initiative, indeed.

    In 2021, DC’s West End became known for Imperfecto. Its Michelin-star rating makes Imperfecto a sparkling addition to its bevy of upscale restaurants.


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    Interior of Imperfecto

    Thinking Big, At Imperfecto

    How can a large open-plan dining space with ultra-high ceilings convey both an air of intimacy and extreme conviviality? It’s a bold design risk—as many restaurants choose to carve up space with cleverly executed drop ceilings, or floating walls, in order to create more privacy. Imperfecto embraces its cavernous space with a zestiness that rivals its shishito purée.

    The Athens and Stockholm-based design firm OOAK can take a deep bow. By choosing contrasting elements (think brass and marble combined with wood and terracotta) and Mediterranean-influenced colors, the team at OOAK creates an eye-popping space that somehow doesn’t distract from the reason you’re there in the first place.

    Dangling light fixtures and massive asymmetrical beams offset the dining room’s space. Three concrete beams emerge from the floor like colossal stalks of bamboo. The rich, nautical blue-painted ceiling creates a reverse anchor to the room while simultaneously paying homage to the colors of the Mediterranean.

    Imperfecto’s risk pays off. Although far from quiet, the layout is thoughtfully imagined. I can easily hear every word my husband says (whether I want to or not). I hear ambient laughter, glasses clinking, and the festive popping of corks—a sublime soundtrack to any fine dining experience.


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    Exterior of Imperfecto

    Raising the Bar, at Imperfecto

    I look through an enormous glass wall into the lively dining room of Imperfecto. It’s muted from where I stand on the sidewalk outside. I open the door and hear the welcoming buzz and hum of a restaurant at its nightly peak. I’m enchanted.

    A one-of-a-kind burl wood check-in stand is both sculptural and functional. From there, we turn right and see two enormous arches with rock-quarry-inspired murals looming above the bar. The underlit array of liquor bottles could be considered an interactive art installation. Art, artsy, and more museum-worthy details abound. Comfy crimson bar stools are ready and waiting.

    Bartender

    The bar is well-tended, with servers who love their craft and prove it with every pour. As a graphic designer in my past life, I became obsessed with the genius use of stemware icons on the cocktail list. I love being able to choose my poison based on the glass shape. I’m not alone. The drinks are also works of art, seasonal, and a delight to imbibe.

    Imperfecto drink menu

    Driven partly by the beautifully shaped coupe, I choose the Imperfecto Club. Grey Goose vodka with limoncello, a splash of fresh pineapple juice, and vanilla syrup. My husband gets the Double ‘O’ Seven, channeling his inner James Bond. If there’s ever a place in DC to feel like an international man of mystery, Imperfecto is that place.

    We give up our cushy barstools somewhat reluctantly—yet eager to continue the Imperfecto experience.


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    What’s in a name?

    Naming a restaurant Imperfecto is a brilliant way to offset any criticism. Yet, I am hard-pressed to find much to complain about. I visited Imperfecto three times in the past year and two out of those three times the service was superb. The other time was just shy of superb.

    We glide to our table. Along the way, we pass a wall of terracotta-designed ‘M’s that discreetly mimic the Imperfecto logo. Yet another well-executed design element in a well-executed space. Further along, an open carving station is displayed like a culinary side show—a clear incentive to order whatever the chef is grilling. 

    Imperfecto dining room

    Chef Limardo changes the menu often, making it all too easy to return. We dine on inventive creations like Moussaka Cigars. Light, flaky, phyllo dough filled with smoked eggplant, ground lamb, pine nuts, and creamy goat/manchego cheese. Each ingredient is well-defined yet melds together seamlessly.

    Never one to pass up on a subterranean fungus, I opt for the Truffle Tagiolini as my main. Homemade pasta with a sweet corn cream sauce topped with chopped asparagus, Pecorino cheese, and of course, a pile of shaved truffles.

    For those who like to be told what to eat, and in what order, the Chef’s Tasting Menu is the way to dine at Imperfecto. Prepare to be dazzled by each artfully plated course, ever-changing platters, and serving pieces. Prepare to test your social media restraint. 


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    Exterior of Imperfecto

    There’s no such thing as Imperfect

    DC is no longer a culinary wasteland. Washington DC is riding a rising tide of innovative and creative cuisine. Chef Enrique Limardo has much to do with it. With three restaurants, including the recently opened Joy, by Seven Reasons, there is much for foodies in DC to celebrate.

    Thank you, Chef Limardo, for pushing the epicurean boundaries in our ‘stuffy’ city. Thank you for identifying a spot to showcase your talents in ‘a place with no identity.’ I know you’d never squeeze wasabi from a plastic ketchup bottle—as you seem to care as much about the pungent Japanese root as you do an earthy truffle or a crispy plantain.

    Your attention to detail at Imperfecto is, well, kind of perfect.

    I hope you continue to prove the DC bashers wrong and the Michelin gods right. As long as you keep evolving the menu and using those cute little stemware icons, I won’t stop visiting.

    So tell me, Chef, did I get the details correct? If not, please let me know. 

    And just remember, no one’s perfect.


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  • The Claremont Hotel is Acadia National Park’s  Hidden Gem

    The Claremont Hotel is Acadia National Park’s Hidden Gem

    The Claremont Hotel and Acadia National Park are a Maine tour de force. The recently redesigned Claremont Hotel has upped the ante on guest experiences in an unparalleled setting. So, if a glass of wine on a wraparound porch facing sunset-tinged mountains excites you, look no further than The Claremont Hotel. And, if hiking mountains to 360-degree panoramic vistas excites you, look no further than Acadia National Park. Read on to discover why The Claremont Hotel, just outside Acadia National Park, is a waterside gem.


    Acadia National Park is a national treasure. After decades of overlooking beauty in my own backyard, I discover our national parks. Is it weird that my discovery overlaps Obama’s Netflix series, Our Great National Parks? Or can we all agree that he and I are kindred spirits? “Yes, we can!”

    In the summer of 2020, when our overseas travel plans were so rudely interrupted, we decided to visit Utah’s Canyonlands and Arches National Parks. These desert parks were so deserted that I had no one to ask, ‘Where are you from?’. Or, ‘What brings you here?’. Questions all but guaranteed to embarrass my kids and husband. 

    Arches and Canyonlands encouraged us to fall back in love—with the USA.

    So when a friend asked if I could join her on a girl’s trip, complete with a stay at The Claremont Hotel, including daily adventures to Bar Harbor, Mount Desert Island, and Acadia National Park, I didn’t hesitate to say, “Yes! Yes, I can!”

    Sunset over Claremont

    The Claremont Hotel + Acadia = Adventure + Luxury

    Finding the optimal balance between adventure and luxury on a holiday is personal math. Some seek a 75/25 or 60/40 balance between the two. I strive for 50/50. Hmmm, does that sound like I’m satisfied with 50% of each? I’d like 100% each. So, I’m striving for a 100/100 balance. Is that even a thing? I hate math. You get the point.

    Claremont estate

    The Claremont Hotel on Mount Desert Island is the consummate compliment to an adventure in Maine’s Acadia National Park. My sought-after 100/100. Unfortunately, I can’t take credit for finding this waterside escape on the edge of Somes Sound. What I can do is pass it along with reasons why it makes a heavenly home base for an Acadia National Park trip.

    For me, passing on nuggets of inspiration so that others may enjoy it is what travel is all about. That’s certainly why this website exists. It’s no fun being the only one to know about a sensational travel destination like Acadia National Park or a hot place like the Claremont Hotel. Well, sometimes it’s fun. As long as I get there first.

    Claremont porch

    The Claremont Hotel, first impressions

    Our car weaves up and around rolling hills and through scenic towns like Bar Harbor. I see Mount Desert Island in the distance. I see handcrafted signs that cheer, ‘Welcome To Maine! The Way Life Should Be!’ I’ll be the judge of that, I think cynically.

    When we pull into The Claremont Hotel’s long driveway I can’t help but take a moment’s pause. A soft landing for my eyes and ears. In front of me stands a grand, lily-white, three-story home set against a cornflower blue sky. I hear the lulling melody of seagulls overhead.

    Claremont porch

    Fuchsia geraniums and forest green ivy cascade over window boxes. A carpet of short, manicured grass lead my gaze toward the mirror-calm sound. Mountains rise majestically in the distance. I pause a little longer, resisting the urge to snap, tag, and post.

    I feel like I’m home. I’ve yet to step onto the full wraparound porch or into the Claremont Hotel itself. I’ve been here less than five minutes and I’m already disappointed I’ll eventually have to leave. I know a treasure when I see one.

    The Claremont Hotel, The Captain’s Choice

    The Claremont Hotel is a historic and impeccably maintained six-acre property on Southwest Harbor, near Acadia National Park. It was built as a summer destination for wealthy families to escape the oppressive summer heat of the northeast. Its location near Bar Harbor was hand-picked by a retired sea captain named Jesse Pease. Capt. Jesse knew a treasure when he saw one, too. 

    Claremont porch

    Built in 1883, the Claremont Hotel was family-run until 1908 when it was sold to a local doctor. In 2020, it was bought by hospitality guru and real estate developer, Tim Harrington. Mr. Harrington is also the man behind other magnificent Maine properties like Hidden Pond and Tides Beach Club.


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    The Claremont Hotel: Sights and Scents

    Upon entering the hotel, I first notice a tall, white ceramic dog sitting regally on a window ledge. Instead of facing inwards toward the room, this stoic Doberman is facing out, admiring the lavish grounds, just like me. 

    The next thing I notice isn’t visible. It’s sandalwood—the Claremont Hotel’s signature scent. Signature scents are all the rage these days. I saunter past the Doberman, knowing full well I’m being lured into the gift shop against my will. Now, every time I enter my living room in DC I’m reminded that I’m no longer at the beautiful Claremont Hotel. Pavlov’s theory was no joke. 

    The Claremont Hotel’s main house has common spaces that ignite my love of interior design and all things pretty. To say I swoon is an understatement. Patterns I’d expect to clash, instead harmonize. Palettes that I’ve always disliked, I suddenly love. Sister Parish paper wraps the walls. It’s textile nirvana—as if the DC Design Center exploded and thousands of colorful fabric samples were forced to find new soul mates.

    living room at claremeont

    Each piece of furniture feels collected rather than bought. Every coffee table book appears well-read and well-loved. The room has an ever-burning fireplace and a games table where I spy guests actually gaming. And I don’t mean Xbox. It’s so accommodating and peaceful, that I’m tempted to sink into a chair and stay there indefinitely.

    But I don’t. There’s so much to explore both indoors and out at The Claremont Hotel. I only have three days. Time is of the essence. 

    bedroom

    The Claremont Hotel: A room, cottage, or house, with a view

    I’d normally gravitate towards a cottage or house when at a property like the Claremont Hotel. But I wouldn’t have traded my intimate and bright guest room in the main house of this gorgeous Acadia hotel for any other that week. This being a girls’ trip, I have a room to myself—a rare event, indeed. I don’t take it for granted.

    The main house has three and a half floors and 24 guest rooms. The rooms facing the front of the Claremont Hotel have the before-mentioned window boxes. The rooms facing Somes sound receive the morning sun. Beds have piles of cushy pillows propped up against William Morris fabric-covered headboards. Fabric-covered headboards are propped up against patterned-covered walls. Patterns rule at The Claremont. I’m tempted to stay in my room all day to admire them.

    But I don’t. Acadia National Park is calling. And my friend is antsy to get going. She’s a very fast walker. The last time we hiked together was in Uganda tracking the Silverback Gorillas. I’m hoping she slows her pace this time. These views don’t weigh 600 lbs and move.

    ocean views

    Acadia calls

    Lest I forget the reason for our trip—three days of taxing trails, peaks, and panoramas in Acadia National Park. At nearly 50,000 acres, the park includes natural coastlines with rocky headlands, exposed granite rock faces, and U-shaped valleys. It has biodiverse wetlands, stone beaches, and pine forests. Pretty impressive stats, Acadia. I’m putting on my hiking boots now. Be patient!

    Acadia National Park is home to Cadillac Mountain, the tallest mountain on America’s eastern seaboard. Tack on 158 miles of hiking trails, 27 miles of motorized roads, and 45 miles of pedestrian-only carriage roads, and I easily calculate, (even with my miserable math skills), that I don’t have enough time here.

    Built between 1913 and 1940, the historic carriage road network was a gift from philanthropist and oil tycoon John D. Rockefeller. Sixteen low-arched granite bridges connect the pebble-lined paths. Mr. Rockefeller, an avid horseman, was adamant the park be non-motorized. I hope his horses appreciated the gesture. 

    vistas of sound

    Off-Season Rules

    We visit Maine in mid-May, which is considered off-season. My friend warns us that Mother Nature isn’t always kind to Maine in May and tells us to prepare for cold and rain. Ever the rule follower, I do just that, despite the weather forecast that continues to predict sunnier and warmer climes than the destination I’m coming from.

    Over the next three days, I’m ridiculed for my over-preparedness. Go ahead and laugh. Had we gotten lost, I would have been the only one with a baggie of trail mix and a Stroopwafel. 


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    staircase of rocks

    The Ladders and Loops of Acadia National Park

    This brings me to our Acadia park hikes. As advertised, the 3.3-mile Ladder Trail Loop that leads to the summit of Dorr Mountain includes a series of ladders to help scale the rock faces. I liken the Ladder Trail to an open-air StairMaster.

    Any part of the trail that is not a ladder is a steep granite step. I curse the person who made these steps. I curse the person who invented ladders. My quads curse me. But then we get to the summit and all is forgiven. 

    The following morning, we tackle St. Saveur and Acadia Mountains. A 3.9-mile loop with two glorious mountain peaks. The trail meanders around lichen and moss-covered boulders. Gnarled, ancient tree trunks appear rooted in the rocks themselves.

    flowers

    The pines have clusters of lavender buds against green needles. Wild purple Rhodora emerges en masse and frames the distant views. Little kelly green ferns unfurl. Later, I recognize these very colors sewn into the fabrics at The Claremont. Mother Nature’s palette never disappoints.

    The trail takes us above the conifer tree line for a rewarding water-filled view. More than once we get turned around and retrace our steps to find the trail markers. No one mentions my stash of Stroopwafels, but I know they are jealous.

    vistas of sound

    Stop and smell the blueberries

    Maine may be known for blueberries, but in mid-May, we are out of luck. I’m willing to sacrifice the plump blueberries to the bears in order to have the trails to ourselves. 

    Acadia National Park, however, thrives in ways well beyond flowering and fruiting shrubs. Evergreen pitch pines and colorful native woodland flora abound. At the water’s edge, I peer into mini eco-systems living within the tidal pools. While we don’t see much wildlife, I’m told there are otters, deer, red foxes, and of course, bears, if you look hard enough. 

    Claremont pool view

    The Claremont Hotel: Porchin’

    We survive the hike, the ladders, the granite StairMaster, and the bears. Time to bask in our accomplishments. Back at the Claremont Hotel, a hot shower beckons, followed by a front-row seat on an evergreen rattan porch rocker with a glass of wine. The rest of my day will be rosé-tinted and food-centric.

    The porch. It’s undoubtedly the best outdoor spot at The Claremont Hotel. In the foreground, there is a welcoming heated pool, with pink and white striped umbrellas that summon up scenes from Dirty Dancing. (Ugh. I forgot to avoid all cultural references that reveal my age.)

    The pool is surrounded by an intricate pattern of lattice-cut grass. At the Claremont Hotel, even the lawn has patterns. In the distance, there are mountains to daydream about climbing. On the porch, there are green blankets in a basket to take the edge off the crisp air. I savor the soothing built-in beauty of the hotel while reflecting on our day. I reflect on Patrick Swayze. My 100/100 balance of luxury and adventure is realized.

    Harry's bar

    Meet Harry and Fern

    I’d be remiss if I didn’t introduce Harry and Fern. Two ways to enjoy dining and drinking at the Claremont Hotel. What a coincidence that these happen to be my two favorite post-hike activities.

    The Claremont Hotel’s main restaurant, Little Fern, isn’t little, but somehow still feels cozy. Kudos to the interior design team for the homey touches. Built-in bookcases, a fireplace, soft banquettes, an entire wall of windows, and a large bar that has us making friends at first sip.

    cocktail

    I order a cocktail that matches the ever-present hot pink geraniums. I’m nothing if not matchy-matchy. Ask anyone. Even my dogs match.

    The food is good, although the portions are too large, even for hungry post-hikers like us. My risotto entrée could have fed the city of Milan. By the next night, we decide to share, which is more fun anyway. Perfetto!

    Harry's bar

    The Claremont Hotels’ clubby, chummy Harry’s Bar is the kind of place to snuggle into with a tumbler of bourbon at an antique chessboard. I don’t drink bourbon or play chess, but Harry’s Bar makes me feel like I should. I imagine Harry’s is best visited on nights when the porch is too cold, but that said, I’d be hard-pressed to pass up having a drink there despite the weather.

    Swarthy sea captains peer down on us from oil paintings above. I hope Cpt. Jesse doesn’t mind the bar is named after some yahoo named Harry.

    lake views

    A fine balance 

    I do the math again and get the same outcome. The combo of The Claremont Hotel and a visit to Acadia National Park strikes an ideal balance between luxury and adventure. You need not be an artist, designer, or photographer to appreciate the natural beauty of both. The colors rooted in Acadia and Mount Desert Island are mirrored at the Claremont—gem tones like emeralds, sapphires, and pink tourmaline abound. 

    A national treasure is defined as ‘something that is greatly valued by the people of a country.’ With its all-encompassing natural beauty, Acadia National Park certainly fits the definition. Combine Acadia National Park with a stay at the Claremont Hotel and they become a treasured pair. “Maine! The way life should be!” Can we agree on that, Barack? 

    “Yes, we can!”


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  • The Best Food In Tokyo, A Primer

    The Best Food In Tokyo, A Primer

    The best food in Tokyo is easier to find than you think. This isn’t because there are endless lists, guides, and blog posts written about it. It’s because the Japanese take every world cuisine and perfect it. Whether that be French, Spanish, Lebanese, or one of the many styles of Japanese food, the best food in Tokyo can be found in many places. Here are some of my faves. And why Tokyo is a food lover’s dream destination.


    In Tokyo, it’s all about the food

    Halfway into our first lesson with our Japanese tutor, Mika states, “The best food you will ever eat is in Tokyo.” I glance at my husband, and our eyes locked. I caught the hint of a smirk. We had lived in New York City for more than ten years. I’m a self-appointed foodie. We are raising foodie kids. Mika, a lovely woman and an excellent tutor, clearly doesn’t know what she’s talking about, I think.

    Four years later, I eat my words—along with the best food I’ve ever eaten.

    Moving To The East Side

    In 2007, my family had the opportunity to spend a few years in Asia. Choosing from a handful of Asian capitals, we ultimately decided upon Tokyo, thinking it would offer us a unique experience, not to mention a great launchpad for travel. We also now know that the food in Tokyo is unparalleled.

    With Lost in Translation and Nobu as our only Japanese points of reference, we impulsively leave our Upper West Side apartment behind. Bags packed, passports in hand—we fly east.

    Tokyo night

    Tokyo’s Grand (Hyatt)

    Before our Tokyo apartment was ready, we moved our jet-lagged selves into the Grand Hyatt Hotel. It’s within walking distance of our apartment building and in the heart of the Roppongi district. The Grand Hyatt is as comforting and welcoming as we could hope for our first days abroad. We renamed it ‘The Womb’ and always stay there when in Tokyo.

    In those early days, from a food point of view, there is very little need to leave the safety of the Grand Hyatt. Ten unique restaurants were a part of The Grand Hyatt. While not all were within the hotel’s walls, they could each be accessed without stepping outside. This was just as well since I was still less than confident with my Japanese language skills (no offense, Mika). I wasn’t ready for the outside world quite yet.

    But I was hungry.


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    Food in Tokyo

    Diving into the Tokyo food scene

    Our favorite restaurants at the Grand Hyatt remain favorites years later—the Oak Door, with its tender and break-the-bank priced wagyu beef. The ambiance is low-lit—the kind of lighting that makes everyone look gorgeous. We spend many nights with friends at the convivial bar, my favorite cocktail in hand—a Shiso Leaf Mojito.

    The French Kitchen is at the top of a large, central staircase in the hotel lobby. It has an enormous open-plan kitchen and is especially popular for its champagne brunch. Decadent choices include melt-in-your-mouth French Toast—a sweet tooth’s BFF. Pale, fluffy omelets, fresh local sashimi, and buttery homemade croissants are artfully presented. I dare any buffet snob to pass it over, as pretty as it is appetizing. The service is seamless.

    Another dinner choice is Keyakizaka, an upscale teppanyaki restaurant that slices, sears, and serves seasonal food table-side. No, it’s nothing like Benihana.

    Even within the world of Japanese cuisine, there are countless options, many of which I am completely unfamiliar with. Okonomiyaki, tonkatsu, shabu-shabu, and kaiseki are new to me, and I dive head-first into experimental dining mode. The kids slurp soba with pride. I devour deep-fried pork with wild abandon—gastronomic nirvana.

    Best food in tokyo

    Beyond the Grand Hyatt

    There is no end to the food adventures I collect while living in Tokyo once I venture beyond the womb. I learned to take a leap of faith when presented with a non-English menu, pointing aimlessly at the intricate kanji characters and the Japanese hiragana alphabet. I hope for the best and usually get it.

    In Japan, I learned to love all things tofu, crave raw tuna for breakfast and try chicken sashimi without fear of salmonella poisoning. I eat a tomato that has never felt the rays of the sun. In short, at least from a culinary perspective, I go for it.

    Squid in tokyo

    Michelin, Meet Tokyo

    Serendipitously timed to coincide with our arrival, 2007 marks the first-ever Michelin Guide review of food in Tokyo. After a year of research by five undercover food inspectors, Michelin awards eight restaurants the coveted three-star rating, more than any other city. A food coup unlike any other, Michelin reveals what everyone in Japan already knows. Tokyo catapults into foodie stardom.

    Sushi counter

    Seeing stars in Tokyo

    We dine at Quintessence, a Japanese-French fusion restaurant, just before it’s awarded three Michelin stars. Quintessence is our first experience with omakase, ‘chef’s choice.’ Omakase allows the chef to create new dishes on a whim and use seasonal ingredients. Sea bream might grace the plates in the spring, while fugu, or blowfish, might do so in the winter.

    Quintessence had been recommended by a colleague of my husband, Daniel, who happened to know the chef. She asked us if there was anything we didn’t eat. The last time she was there, they had served her sandpiper, and she wasn’t particularly fond of sandpiper. Sandpiper—where was my dictionary? Was that a fish, a bird, or a reptile? How could I answer? ‘Oh, I’m not particularly fond of salamander, or squirrel, or pangolin.’ Naively, I just asked that nothing on my plate be moving.

    The meal was unlike anything we’d experienced before. The chef must have used tweezers to lay that baby fern precisely on the rice, revealing a hidden, edible flower. The service is invisible and seamless. I had no idea what I ate, but I knew I loved it. When we left, the chef and waiters followed us outside, emphatically waving goodbye, smiling, bowing, and saying thank you—an unforgettable introduction to Japanese dining.


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    View of Mt Fuji

    Destination Dining in Tokyo

    As of 2019, Michelin had designated stars for a staggering 230 restaurants in Tokyo, thirteen of which had the highest status—three stars. If there is ever a time to plan a holiday around food, the time is now.

    The New York Times published an article not long ago highlighting a trend where people book holidays based solely upon getting a reservation at a coveted restaurant. Having been guilty of this in the past, I am thrilled to know I’m not the only one with obsessive-compulsive reservation disorder.

    A few restaurants I have on my future dining list are Narisawa in Minami Aoyama, L’Effervessence in Nishi Azabu, Den in Shibuya, and Florilège in Harajuku. In my next life, I’d like to be a food inspector for the Michelin Guides.

    Dining in Tokyo

    Getting molecular at the Mandarin Oriental

    Molecular dining is flawlessly executed in Tokyo, most notably at TAPAS, the Michelin-starred restaurant/bar in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. The molecular theory of food juxtaposes ingredients’ chemical and physical attributes, transforms flavors, and defies beliefs about taste and overall conventional wisdom about food. Culinary jargon aside, it’s incredibly fun!

    Cue wagyu beef ‘grilled’ to perfection without ever touching a flame. Carrot ‘caviar’ delicately pressed through a grid of glass syringes that look like a prop from a high school science class. The entire dinner feels like a chemistry lab but in a far more beautiful environment, with no odorous formaldehyde and no quizzes.

    The final course was over-the-top (the Japanese interpretation), which means understated. We are presented with an unusual assortment of fruit. Unusual in the sense that it contains lemons, limes, and grapefruit, among the more traditional fruits one might expect. The chef asks us to eat a small berry first.

    I then take a bite of the lemon. The berry trips a switch in my brain, it is sweet. The same goes for the lime—a potent burst of sugar. Is this fake fruit? Next, I try a strawberry. My mouth puckers violently. It’s sour and almost inedible. The African ‘miracle berry,’ sometimes called, changed our taste buds instantaneously. Turning sweet into sour and sour into sweet. A mind-blowing, or should I say mind-altering, curtain call.

    Savoy Pizza

    Savoy is one of our guilty pleasures: one table, two styles of pizza, ten barstools. Savoy opened on a backstreet of Roppongi in 2006, and the queues haven’t stopped since. We always wait as the line moves quickly. The bar stools aren’t very comfortable, and the staff doesn’t encourage guests to hang around after the meal.

    Margherita or marinara (and I was told a secret white style) pizzas sum up the menu. It is impossible to say how they make these thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas so superior. What’s the magic ingredient? The water, the salt, the flour? Whatever it is, it’s the best pizza ever. Apologies to Italy and New York.

    That place Behind Kiddyland

    In our first few weeks exploring Tokyo, friends tell us about their favorite, no-frills lunch spot. They don’t know what it’s called or how to get there. ‘It’s somewhere behind Kiddyland’, they say—as if that singular bit of information will suffice. But, they warn, it’s critical to arrive before the clock strikes noon. That’s when Japanese businessmen take lunch. Sure enough, by 12:05pm, a line has snaked around the corner from this simple izakaya.

    Two kinds of gyoza (dumplings) grace the limited menu: seared garlic and leek, or original, and either can be served fried or steamed. This hidden dive behind Kiddyland became our go-to for years. Only while researching the best food in Tokyo for this article did I discover its actual name—Harajuku Gyoza Lou.

    Tuna in Tokyo

    Dining Traditions in Tokyo

    It’s easy for someone like me, who thrives on consistency, stability, and structure, to fall in love with Japan. I love the ‘no shoes’ in the house tradition and have continued since returning to the US. I love the oshibori, or hot towel, presented to us when dining out. Itadakimasu, or ‘I gratefully receive,’ becomes a part of our vocabulary at mealtime. Interestingly, there is no tipping culture in Japan. Whether it be a restaurant, a taxi, or a hotel valet, the Japanese take pride in their jobs, and no tipping is expected.

    Tokyo dining scene

    Designer Sushi

    I missed dragon rolls and California rolls as much as the next ex-pat, but designer rolls didn’t seem to catch on in Tokyo. Rainbow Roll Sushi gave many foreigners their fill of ‘Americanized’ sushi, but it seemed destined for failure. It was no surprise to discover they are now permanently closed. As a Japanese friend pointed out, ‘Food is not a trend in Japan; it is a lifestyle.’ Amen.

    A sushi restaurant we frequent in nearby Roppongi is called Sushi Ikekan. Reveling in minimalism with mainly counter seating, the food is divine. We watch the chef create magic with the ingredients— precision and concentration used to design each piece. Anyone who has seen Jiro Dreams of Sushi will understand. There is a quietness and an integrity, neither showy nor flamboyant.

    Lanterns in tokyo

    Timeless Tokyo

    While Tokyo is always trending and reinventing itself, at its core, Tokyo is a timeless place. Japanese culture prides itself on consistency, aesthetics, and structure juxtaposed with the hip, cool, and avant-garde. I see Tokyo through a rose-colored lens, having been an ex-pat there for many years. Yet, ask anyone who has spent time there. It’s hard not to be smitten. In Tokyo, it’s all about the food.

    Mika, wherever you are, you were right.


    Calling all Foodies! Here are some unique experiences to book in advance:

    • Sumo Wrestling and Chicken Hot Pot Experience

    • Tokyo Shinjuku Food Tour

    • Sushi Making Class

    • Famous Tsukiji Fish Market Street Food Tour and Tasting


    Get my Free wish list destination hot sheet. Click here!


  • Hiša Franko is the 21st best restaurant in the world

    Hiša Franko is the 21st best restaurant in the world

    Hiša Franko is #21 on San Pellegrino’s ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list. Hiša Franko’s chef is ranked #7 on the ‘Best Chef Awards’ list and has two coveted Michelin stars. Detect a pattern? Hiša Franko is climbing culinary ladders at breakneck speed. 

    Chef Roš has everything to do with it.


    SATW logo
    Honorable Mention: Culinary Travel

    Hiša Franko

    Perhaps you envision the world’s 21st-best restaurant in a cosmopolitan city like New York, with an inaudible hum coming from behind an unmarked door on West 9th Street. Or, in a posh Mayfair hotel, where London suit and ties gather to discuss private equity amid a buzz of banking activity. Where numbers and figures float around the room like musical notes.

    logo

    Maybe you assume Chef Roš graduated with honors from the Culinary Institute of America or L’Ecole. Or, that Roš was taught to cook by a nurturing grandmother and spent hours in the kitchen recreating family recipes, eventually trading a stained apron for crisp chef’s whites.

    You’d be wrong on all fronts. 

    Exterior of farmhouse

    Hiša Franko’s Lucky #21

    The 21st best restaurant in the world, Hiša Franko, is not in a sleepless city or a swanky hotel. It isn’t on a quaint American main street or hidden in a European city’s back alley. It’s not anywhere you’d ever imagine. Unless you imagine it’s on a rural, tree-lined road in Slovenia.

    Then, you’d be right.

    You’d also be off-base about Chef Roš, who studied international science and was destined to become a diplomat. Or that Chef Roš played competitive sports and rarely stepped foot in a kitchen other than to eat. 

    Would you believe that Chef Roš entered Hiša Franko’s kitchen and had to start from scratch? Chef Roš, who is now a culinary powerhouse, has earned two Michelin stars and is a force to be reckoned with. Don’t believe me?

    Just ask her husband.

    Have passport, will travel

    I travel for food the way others travel for a music festival, Broadway show, or museum exhibit. An extraordinary dining experience invigorates my senses in the same ways. A multi-dimensional artistic endeavor in its own right. When done well, for instance, a meal can be an Oscar-winning performance.

    This summer, I drove four hours for lunch. I crossed an international border and through multiple microclimates with my passport and rapid antigen test results in tow. Then, I drove four hours back.

    Was it worth it?

    Glass and flowers

    Chef’s Table, Hiša Franko

    It’s June 2016. My husband and I are watching one of our favorite guilty pleasures, the culinary docu-series Chef’s Table. Chef’s Table is to food what the BBC’s Planet Earth is to nature (minus David Attenborough’s distinguished narration). 

    The series documents chefs in far-flung destinations and overlays interviews with dramatic music to reel the viewer in. I’m that fish who gets hooked every time.

    Who’s the Chef?

    Tonight’s episode features Chef Ana Roš, a chef I’d never heard of. This is exactly the point of the show—to introduce cutting-edge culinary talent to food-obsessed people like me.

    Chef’s Table serves up unusual food adventures in destinations around the world. It delivers them to our living rooms to be enjoyed alongside our UberEats and DoorDash orders.

    Food is presented much like a docent introduces a Manet at the Met. A well-thought-out but concise narration of the artist and painting. Using all the right descriptors to whet the appetite, create intrigue, and allow for personal interpretation. 

    My husband lights a fire, and we settle in. Ready to travel to Hiša Franko from the comfort of our well-worn leather couch? Beside us, the dogs are snoring. ‘Where are we going tonight?’ I wonder as I pull a cozy Sferra blanket over my legs. 

    Slovenia.

    Blue sky

    Slovenia?

    Do they mean Slovakia? Sardinia? Or, Armenia? Where is Slovenia? We are less than two minutes into the show. I press pause to find an Atlas. My husband sighs. 

    ‘Slovenia is in Eastern Europe, above Croatia, below Austria. Next to Italy and Hungary’, I proudly relay to Daniel. ‘Some might say north, south, east, and west,’ he replies with undiluted sarcasm. I ignore him. Geography lesson complete. I press play.

    The episode chronicles Ana’s unlikely journey from a woman destined to become a diplomat in Brussels, who instead inherits a local inn and restaurant. With no culinary training, she turns it into one of the best restaurants in the world and inadvertently puts Slovenia on the culinary map.

    Hisa Franko signage

    Franko’s house

    Ana Roš and Valter Kramar took over his family’s inn and restaurant, located deep in Slovenia’s Soča Valley, in 2000. It had been owned by the Kramars since 1970. Franko is Valter’s father. Hiša means house. Franko’s House.

    The inn and restaurant are not only Ana and Valter’s business; they are also their family home. With Ana in the kitchen as the chef, Valter was able to realize his lifelong dream of creating a cheese and wine cellar. 

    Valter ages his ‘Tolminic’ cheese for years and stocks his cellar with natural Slovenian vintages. His appreciation for crazy and unusual wines adds yet another dimension to the dining experience at Hiša Franko. Ana and Valter are as naturally paired as their food and wine.


    Find out about Hisa Franko’s availability and even more glowing reviews here!


    Hisa Franko dish

    Serendipity

    Years after watching Hiša Franko’s episode of Chef’s Table, we plan a family trip to Istria, Croatia. My trusted atlas is again put to good use. I quiz Daniel, ‘Did you know that the Istrian peninsula borders Slovenia?’ A slightly raised eyebrow leads me to believe I just may have sparked an idea. 

    Serendipitously, we discover our Istrian villa is within driving distance of Hiša Franko. That is if you consider 4 hours driving distance. I hop on the computer and make a reservation.

    With far fewer destination diners to compete with, I secured a reservation for our date. But truth be told, Slovenia isn’t simple to get to even when there isn’t a worldwide pandemic. And, even if you are already in the country below it. Correction, south of it.

    I didn’t factor in the border crossing. Or the need for a 48-hour advance negative COVID test to cross it. More importantly, there is the minor issue of transportation. Details to be figured out at later date (aka procrastination).

    Mountain view

    What kind of foodie are you?

    There are two kinds of foodies. Those who would drive 4 hours for lunch, and everyone else. If the thought of driving 300 miles round-trip for a meal seems reasonable to you, then you are my people.

    At 8am, we leave our villa. Our minivan driver is a Croatian woman named Marta. She tells us about a lesser-known border crossing into Slovakia, I mean, Slovenia. This is August in Europe, and border traffic is a killer. Passport in hand, the excursion feels like a covert mission.

    En route to Hiša Franko, we pass hamlets puddled at the base of towering mountains. It’s a dreary morning, and fog hangs low in the air, cutting the mountains in half. This only adds to the mystique of the journey. However, it creates drama, especially as we drive through dense forests filled with Croatia’s famous truffles. My excitement is as palpable as the earthy, musky scent in the air.

    Border patrol

    At 915am, we pull up to a sleepy border patrol crossing cut into the hills. Why do I feel like I’m doing something illegal? This is just lunch, after all, not the finalé of The Sound of Music.

    Menacing clouds press up against the Slovenia landscape in the distance. My hand shaking slightly, I hold up my phone to show the border police photographic evidence of our negative test results. I accidentally swipe left, and the faces of my nieces fill the screen. Whoops. 

    The policeman grunts a guttural, ‘cute’ at their insta-worthy faces before I quickly swipe back to the results. The rain starts to gain momentum. He waves us through. We are in Slovenia. 3 hours to go.

    Blue sky

    Colors of Slovenia

    The sun cuts in and out, revealing towering mountains with sheer rock face walls. Thick clouds that pool heavily in the valleys are just beginning to lift. The scene auto-fills with gem-like tones. Lapis lazuli, malachite, and topaz eke through.

    In the final stretch to Hiša Franko, we notice golden flax-rolled hay bales, an emerald green river (no doubt filled with trout), and lush trees. The colors, after hours of heavy rain, are unreal.

    windows

    At Hiša Franko, It’s all in the details

    It’s 1145am. When we arrive at Hiša Franko, the sky is fully transformed. The ominous weather has moved on. Or, maybe it never reached this magical enclave in the Soča Valley. It hardly matters now. The blue sky is a gift after hours of murky fog and narrow, winding roads.

    The Hiša Franko farmhouse is located just beyond the small settlement of Kobarid, (est. population: 1060, as of 2016). Its exterior echoes Benjamin Moore’s ‘Dark Salmon’ paint chip.

    Flowers the colors of ripe red fruits spill out from tall shuttered windows. Originally built in the 1860s, it’s a small peach of a building set in front of a big apple-green mountain. 

    Common areas

    The common spaces at the inn are designed by someone with a true eye for art and photography. I intend to seek that person out, but can’t help thinking it’s none other than Ana and Valter. That their eye for food and wine naturally extends to every other type of design comes as no surprise.

    Inside Hiša Franko’s dining room, the warm hues continue. Tomato red walls act as a rich contrast to white linen. A long, central, wooden table is the hub for wine bottles, glasses, and barware. Valter’s domain.

    Dining room

    Abstract art is framed along the main wall of the intimate space. It’s aligned at the baseline, which is atypical. As is the decanter, which spirals upwards like a snake being charmed. I am in love with the decanter. I hope my husband reads this before Christmas.

    Hovering disk-shaped light fixtures lower the ceiling and add even more intimacy. It’s subtle details like these that make me appreciate all that has gone into making Ana’s restaurant such a treasured place.

    Decanter

    23 and me 

    How does one prepare for a 23-course lunch? With healthy trepidation and an empty stomach. We are no strangers to chef-led dining experiences, as it’s the surprises that make them all the more worthwhile. 

    We are a group of six, including my 17-year-old daughter. Hiša Franko is one of her first true multi-course, experimental culinary adventures. I am silently proud when she opts to try everything despite any preconceived notions of what is being served.

    This is no simple undertaking, as many ingredients are unlike anything we have seen, eaten, or even heard of before.

    I’m prepared for the variety of locally inspired ingredients. The hearty foods that have kept Slovenians fed for generations: notably, lamb, pork, and trout. I’m less prepared to see bear paw on the menu. Immediately, I assumed that bear paw is the name of a wild mushroom, like Lion’s Mane or Hen of the Woods.

    menu

    Leave it to my curious daughter to point to the menu and ask, “Is this really bear paw?’. ‘Indeed it is!’ comes the unexpected reply. 

    Our server goes on to explain that a certain number of brown bears are culled each year due to the increase in population and the risks they pose to local villagers. 

    Was I ready to try it? Ummmm, sort of?

    Bear paw dumplings

    The meat of the bear paw is supposedly very tender, on par with slow-cooked beef. Our bear paw is minced and nestled into a beautiful dumpling. The dumpling is surrounded by a forest consommé and topped with green leaves. 

    I savor each bite, letting the earthy broth linger on my tastebuds. It’s worth the trip for this course alone. 

    Yet, there are 22 more to go.

    Bear Paw
    Chestnut dumpling filled with bear paw, forest consommé

    Hiša Franko: A story of reincarnation

    Our menu is titled, ‘Reincarnation.’ It’s particularly fitting, as Ana effortlessly brings new life to humble ingredients. Cauliflower is accompanied by black truffle, egg, milk skin, and buttermilk powder. Trout is cured with fig leaves, barley water, cucumber, and elderflower.

    Valter’s cheeses are served with local beeswax and nettle gnocchi. Unique combinations of well-known ingredients create layers of new tastes and textures. A culinary story of rebirth.

    Coen beignets
    Corn beignet, fermented cottage cheese, smoked trout roe, wild chives

    My favorite course at Hiša Franko is one that I had prematurely decided would be my least. Two warm corn beignets are plated on a thick slab of a tree trunk. Inside is a mixture of fermented cottage cheese, smoked trout roe, and wild chives. Heaven in a bite. Always trust the chef. 

    Each course is one artistic expression of Ana’s homeland after another. I photograph discreetly to have visual proof of a meal that is almost too hard to describe.

    Charcuterie
    Impression of charcuterie

    Valter’s Cellar

    Hiša Franko’s menu has three ways to pair wine: ’Funky’, ‘Local’, and ‘Juicy’. We choose ‘Local’ as I can’t imagine having the opportunity to try eight different types of Slovenian wine again in the foreseeable future.

    While I’ve never heard of any of the wines being served, each is a natural fit for its course. A 2013 Royal PetNat, a 2005 Stemberger Cherry Oxy, and an intriguing wine called Aci Urbajs Organic Anarchy are examples. If I didn’t say it then, Valter, thank you! Next time, I’m coming back for ‘Funky’.

    Dining room

    Choreographing a meal at Hiša Franko

    Hiša Franko’s dining room is slightly more formal than its farmhouse exterior belies. The servers are dressed in what can best be described as costumes rather than uniforms. Their jackets are adorned with bold patterns of vines and clusters of grapes. The experience is an organic, whimsical, and well-orchestrated performance.

    It’s a ballet of sorts. Touches of theater are dotted throughout the meal. The way our table had three servers present each course in unison, making sure to use eye contact to stay in sync.

    World’s Best

    Ana and Valter’s is just the kind of unlikely, unconventional, and unexpected culinary story that the world needs. A world where a small restaurant, deep in the virtually unknown Julian Alps, is discovered and acknowledged for extraordinary food. Where a chef with no formal training can not only thrive, but reinvent. 

    Ana Roš’s star is still rising, and we are all the lucky beneficiaries of her journey. If we choose to follow.

    Her story is just one reason of many to visit Armenia, I mean Slovenia.


    Find out about Hisa Franko’s availability and even more glowing reviews here!


  • How I got a reservation at Eleven Madison Park—the best restaurant in the world. (And how you can, too).

    How I got a reservation at Eleven Madison Park—the best restaurant in the world. (And how you can, too).

    A dinner reservation at Eleven Madison Park is coveted. Places like Eleven Madison Park are re-imagining their place in the new culinary landscape. The most inspiring example of this comes from Daniel Humm. Mr. Humm is the chef and owner of three Michelin-starred, Eleven Madison Park. I listened to his podcast with Guy Raz and was humbled. Eleven Madison Park has surprised the restaurant industry by creating completely plant-based menus. I only hope I can get in.


    My husband, Daniel, doesn’t understand why I would write about how I got a dinner reservation at Eleven Madison Park. He doesn’t think anyone will read it.

    Maybe, he’s right.

    For the Love of Food

    I’m banking on the fact that there are people out there, like me, who want to eat their way through a city, or a country. People who want to discover a region’s local delicacies or experience flavors and spices that aren’t readily used in their own cooking. People who would give their pinky toe for a reservation at Eleven Madison Park.

    While it may seem that if a person is intelligent enough to follow the directions on a restaurant’s website, regardless of the restaurant’s popularity, a reservation would naturally follow. Well, it doesn’t. Not always.

    Online platforms like Open Table, Tock, and Resy, have certainly helped the foodies of the world book great tables around the globe. Reservations at Eleven Madison Park, for example. However, there are tricks, hacks, strategies, and (dare I say) skills involved in the process.

    I have been known to book a holiday around a particular restaurant, securing the table long before the flights or hotel. I scour the San Pellegrino list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants prior to committing to a country to visit. It may sound extreme, but as it turns out, I’m not alone. The New York Times recently wrote an article about a trend called ‘destination dining’. The article highlighted people who created entire itineraries around the reservation at a particular restaurant. Those who live to eat, rather than eat to live. My people.

    Restaurant HRiSHi tasting menu

    Worshipping San Pellegrino

    Year to year, the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best List ebbs and flows with the finest epicurean experiences of the times. Some restaurants hold their title for a few years, while others have a shorter tenure. It’s a culinary roller coaster for those in the business of food, and for those who love to eat. I often find myself watching the rise and fall of restaurants the way others might watch the stock market. Can we agree that food is more fun than stocks?

    Simply summed up, the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best List ranks the top restaurants in the world according to unique culinary experiences. The list acts as a barometer for dining and food trends—a defining list of what is hot right now.

    CLICK HERE
    Receive my FREE GUIDE on getting reservations at the best restaurants in the world

    Beat the Restaurant Reservation System

    There are a few ways to beat the reservation system, which can be frustrating at the best of times. Ways to grab the table you’d like, on the day you’d like, and without fear of getting saddled with the dreaded 5pm or 11pm time slot.

    A few personal case stories follow, describing how I secured reservations at some of the best restaurants in the world, including, then number one, Chef Daniel Humm’s Eleven Madison Park. Want to skip the stories and head straight to the cheat sheet? Scroll down. Otherwise, read on. As an aside, I have very little in the way of photographs for these experiences, as I spent my time fully absorbed by the food. Indeed, the sign of a fabulous meal.

    The Test Kitchen

    Case Story #1: The Test Kitchen, Cape Town

    The Test Kitchen (then ranked #50) is one of the hardest restaurant bookings to get in South Africa. Rumor has it that even TV’s most well-loved talk show host, Ellen DeGeneres, was turned away without a reservation.

    We were heading to South Africa for a week in Cape Town. I had The Test Kitchen firmly in my crosshairs, yet knew it was going to be a challenge to reserve if I relied solely upon reading the website reservation directions, as my husband seemed to think was so simple.

    Reservations open up four times a year at 8am for the following three months. That means if you’d like a table in April, May, or June, you need to book at exactly 8am on March 1st, South Africa time. Did they really mean four times a year? Yikes. 

    I live in Washington DC, which meant a 1am alarm. Factor in the other like-minded, overachieving foodies scrambling for the same date. And those who live in more accessible time zones. Not as simple.

    Having booked the trip months in advance, I had the luxury of time on my side. I emailed our hotel in Cape Town to ask/beg the concierge for help. First, I explained the situation and the semi-problematic time difference. Then, I assured her that my expectations were low, and would appreciate her willingness to try.

    As any concierge worthy of her post would do, she replied that she’d be happy to help. I gave options for dates, as we were in Cape Town for 7 nights, thanked her in advance, and followed up immediately to confirm our conversation.

    A few months later, she replied with the news that she had successfully secured the booking. I was amazed, but not completely surprised. Never underestimate the power of a detail-oriented, capable, and willing concierge. In case you’re wondering, the hotel had no special ‘in’ or connections to The Test Kitchen, just a finger on the trigger, in the right time zone, at exactly the right time.

    Dark Room at the Test Kitchen

    The evening began upon entry into the Dark Room—cozy, ambient, and moody. We were handed a scrolled parchment map that outlined the origins of the upcoming bite-sized courses.

    After drinks, and the ‘map of small bites’, we were ushered through an unassuming doorway. Hello, Light Room—buzzing and bustling with bright-eyed waiters and an energized open-plan kitchen. A contrast in settings, decor, and festivities. It was theater, and we were an eager audience.

    Billionaire Bite Test Kitchen Bread board at The Test Kitchen

    Chef Luke Dale-Roberts’ inventive food hit all the marks. Each dish had an interesting juxtaposition of ingredients. It was, however, the Billionaire Bite, an indescribable savory shortbread, topped with gold leaf, that sent our tastebuds into overdrive. We paired the meal with the sommelier’s wine choices, rolled back to the hotel, and immediately fell into a food-induced coma. Bravo, Chef Luke.

    Case Story #2: Pujol, Mexico City

    The Netflix series, Chef’s Table, has always been a stimulant for our food obsession. One lazy winter’s night, an episode about Chef Enrique Olvera from Mexico City’s Pujol, particularly caught my husband’s attention. Then, Pujol was rated the 12th-best restaurant in the world by San Pellegrino and the 3rd-best in Latin America. When the show ended, Daniel casually intimated that he would love to go there one day.

    My mind began to spin. Daniel is not one to ask for much in the way of gifts. He had a birthday coming up the next month. That birthday happened to fall on a Saturday night. I discovered there was a direct flight to Mexico City from DC. The stars were beginning to align.

    While I could book the flights to Mexico City on miles without worry, I didn’t want to book the hotel until I had the restaurant reserved. What to do first? Another situation where my new BFF, the concierge, came into play. Even if it was a future concierge.

    I called the hotel and explained my predicament. I assured him that I would book a room the moment the reservation was secured. Again, a reliable and helpful concierge to the rescue.

    Pujol mole course

    Less than a month later, we were happily sitting in the dimly lit, black-walled dining room of Pujol in Mexico City, savoring Chef Olvera’s famous 100-day mole, and tasting menu. We overheard a young couple next to us explaining to the waiter that they had based their entire trip around this reservation after having seen Chef’s Table. So much for originality.

    I’ve since discovered that Pujol can be reserved on Open Table. I plugged in today’s date as an experiment. The next available is three months from now at 6pm.

    Overview of New York City

    Case Story #3: Eleven Madison Park, NYC

    How to get a reservation at the best restaurant in the entire world? Perhaps the triad of strategy, knowledge, and plain old good luck. In the case of Chef Daniel Humm’s Eleven Madison Park, luck was a key player.

    A girls’ trip to NYC in February 2019 seemed a good way to beat the winter blues. After choosing the date, we decided to divide and conquer—one friend chose the hotel, and another the Broadway show. I was in charge of dinner.

    I googled the reservation policy for Eleven Madison Park, which then held the #1 spot on the San Pellegrino 50 Best List. The site read: ‘We open reservations at 9am EST on the first of every month for the following month. For example, all May reservations will become available on April 1st at 9am EST’. Seemed simple enough under ordinary circumstances, but Daniel Humm’s restaurant is considered anything but ordinary.

    For a February reservation, the date to book was January 1st, 9am EST—New Year’s Day. What better way to try to beat the system than to take advantage of a morning when a good part of the country is sleeping late, hungover, or both? I marked my calendar and created a Tock profile, as recommended. As long as I didn’t oversleep, I had a shot.

    Timing Is Everything

    At 8:55am, on January 1st, I was waiting with my finger on the trigger. Eleven Madison Park has a pay-in-advance dinner policy, so I had already cleared it with my friends should the reservation come to fruition. Refresh, refresh, refresh. Click. Click. Ticking clock, ticking clock…. 8pm. Confirmed. Wow.

    The strategy of working the timeline backward to a holiday is not foolproof, but will certainly increase the odds, especially if you have any flexibility in dates and times.

    Eleven Madison Park was formal, yet not stuffy, with an intelligent, funny, and self-deprecating waitstaff. Its location is in a 30-story art-deco skyscraper that originally housed Metropolitan Life. The grandiose pillars and sky-high ceilings had a warmth and happy buzz that filled the entire space. Culinary bucket list—check.

    CLICK HERE
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    Eleven Madison Park In the news

    Chef Daniel Humm’s recent announcement to serve a 100% plant-based menu upon re-opening is one that will likely have a ripple effect on the restaurant world. As he points out in his podcast, it is harder to turn a carrot into a meal than a tail of a lobster. Each of his plant-based dishes will certainly still uphold his four-pronged combination: to be delicious, beautiful, creative, and intentional. In his soothing understated manner, Daniel Humm maintains that if all four are achieved in a single dish, he has created a new language.

    I can’t wait to learn it. Eleven Madison Park, here I come.

    NYC with sunlight

    Tips and gratuities

    Finally, the cheat sheet. Ten practical, logical, and strategic tips on how to get that coveted reservation, regardless of price or popularity.

    1. Follow the rules: Look at the restaurant’s website in advance and take note of their particular method of reserving.
    2. Mark your calendar: Once you have the date in mind, backtrack to the day (and time) you can officially book. Set an alarm, or two, so you don’t forget.
    3. Be flexible: Are you able to book the restaurant for a variety of dates? Mark your calendar for multiple days in case the first time you aren’t successful. Have those dates ready so you can make a snap decision.
    4. Create accounts in advance: Many restaurants, especially the ones you pay for the meal in advance, have an online system to join or use a reservation platform like Tock. Get your account set up and credit card input.
    5. Refresh: Get the website up and ready five minutes before the allotted time to book. Refresh the page as needed.
    6. Make a new BFF: Don’t be afraid to ask the concierge for help, especially when dealing with countries that don’t speak your language, or are in a different time zone. Then don’t forget to tip when they come through.
    7. Dial it in: When all else fails, try calling for a reservation. We have gotten lucky with last-minute cancellations time and again. Keep calling, you never know.
    8. Think backward: Take advantage of holidays like New Year’s Day and Christmas morning. Plan ahead to that date.
    9. Settle for the next best thing: A chef’s expertise goes well beyond dinner. Does the restaurant also serve lunch? There is something wonderful about devoting an afternoon of vacation to a long boozy lunch.
    10.  Time out: Many reservation systems time out after five minutes. If the system opens at 10am and you miss it, log back on at 10:05am, as some people may have changed their minds or have run out of time.

    Admittedly, there are many great places to eat around the world, and most don’t require the advanced legwork described above. From the ones in Manhattan with white-linen tablecloths to the ones in the backstreets of Cartagena with red and white plastic ones. We all have different tastebuds, but we all want to eat where we want to eat. Yet, in the end, it’s just food, after all. Daniel, don’t you agree?

    CLICK HERE
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    where will you find yourself next? Just Click.

    Head to Cape Town and try your luck reserving The Test Kitchen.

    Don’t forget the wine and the wine country of South Africa. Stellenbosch offers panoramic views and decadent restaurants.

    If a long, boozy lunch is your idea of a perfect afternoon, head to Catherine’s Café on the lovely island of Antigua.


    If you ever want to get in touch, ask a question, or discuss a way to partner, please email me at [email protected]. 

  • 5 of the best unforgettable and over-the-top travel experiences

    Vacation, as the dictionary states, is ‘an extended period of leisure and recreation, especially one spent away from home or in traveling.’ Most of us are long overdue. So, when that much-needed vacation finally comes, make it an unforgettable travel experience. Read on for some much-needed travel inspiration.


    Travel, whether I like to admit it or not, comes with a certain amount of expectation. I might say, “Oh, I’m happy at any beach, as long as I can relax with a book,” or “I don’t care about the hotel room, I’ll be outside most of the day anyway.” Or even, “The service isn’t that important as long as the food is really good.”

    But, in reality, I care. A lot.

    Relaxing on a beach with soft sand underfoot is lovely, as long as it isn’t facing an off-shore power plant. I would prefer not to stare at a construction site from my hotel room, regardless of how little time I spend in it. And, service does matter, especially when my room key decides not to work at midnight.

    Micato Jeep

    Yes, I have expectations. So, what happens when already high expectations are exceeded? When what I already imagine will be great—is even greater? Those unforgettable moments, while few and far between, are the ones I relive time and again. These are my top five.

    Over-The-Top Travel Experience 5 / Helicopter Sundowner: Amangiri, Utah

    Amangiri is a resort tucked away along the southern border of Utah, where it meets Arizona. As with many Aman properties, Amangiri is small, and a challenge to find, which adds a level of exclusivity that attracts many luxuries, adventure travelers. Their excursions are equally exclusive and unique.

    Amangiri pool

    One such excursion presented to us while there, was the chance to watch the sunset over the Utah desert. That’s not terribly unique, one might think. How about watching the sunset, with a bottle of chilled champagne, from the top of an isolated butte, via helicopter? Now that’s more like it.

    Helicopter excursion

    We spied on the desert from above, the blades of the helicopter sliced the dry air, and made the trip worthwhile from lift-off. The pilot steered us towards Glen Canyon Dam, and then Horseshoe Bend, the iconic shape of the landscape giving credence to its name.

    Mesa view

    From this vantage point, hovering over the deep canyon, I could see the striations of rock that had formed over millions of years.

    View of butte from helicopter

    We landed on a nearby towering butte, the flat top was an ideal place for the pilot to set up our champagne sundowner.

    Mesa views

    The terrain was a sea of gold, the rich mesas, and distant buttes picked up the colors from the sun, and the sky dissolved into moody shades of blue. From our aerie, champagne in hand, and no sound aside from the whirling wind, the world stood still.

    Despite the high price tag of the excursion, I had no regrets. Even years later, it is one of the most unforgettable travel moments in my memory. And while my husband might disagree, who can put a price tag on that?

    Over-The-Top Travel Experience 4 / Sound bath: Blackberry mountain, Tennessee

    More than ever, wellness activities have emerged as daily essentials. Whether a 10-minute morning meditation, a mid-day walk, or a late afternoon restorative yoga session, wellness is more mainstream than ever.

    Wildflowers

    In the past, I had tried a few sound bath experiences from my phone, mainly to help me relax before bed. I was curious to try one in person. So when a girlfriend and I decided to take a trip to Blackberry Mountain, we signed up right away.

    Our instructor’s voice had a lulling cadence. He introduced us to the practice of sound bathing, which has nothing, incidentally, to do with bathing, or water. The room had high ceilings, and was drenched in creamy, warm light. He was surrounded by a multitude of instruments; gongs, rainmakers, and chimes, among them. A lovely setting in which to spend the next 90 minutes.

    Sound bath

    Six of us formed a wide semi-circle on the floor and draped ourselves in soft blankets. The instructor then placed a lightly scented lavender cloth over our eyes. Just five minutes in, and I thought that this was already exceeding my expectations.

    The senses in my body awakened, and I melted into the sounds. The gongs overlapped the chimes. The chimes overlapped the rainmaker, which sounded like waves crashing onto a beach. First softly, then gaining power, before receding again. I fell asleep, I think. Then awoke to tuning forks in G major, chants, and quite a few unnameable sounds. The vibrations of those sounds lifted and settled within me, as I drifted in and out of a dream-like state.

    Towards the end of the sound bath, the group was asked to slowly sit up. I reluctantly followed orders. The gauzy roller shades had been raised, the curtains drawn—had I even noticed them earlier?

    I found myself facing purple mountains— the start of sunset. The ridge was razor sharp, and pink and orange hues were just beginning to appear behind it. I smiled. Then I wondered when I could do the whole thing all over again. One reason, of many, to return to Blackberry Mountain.

    Over-The-Top Travel Experience 3 / Berber Tea ceremony: Atlas Mountains, Morocco

    An hour’s drive, and yet a thousand miles away from bustling Marrakech, are the mesmerizing Atlas Mountains. We were on our way to Kasbah Bab Ourika, a rustic oasis nestled gently in the mountains.

    Kasbah Bab Ourika exterior view

    A holiday at a kasbah feels intimate and secluded, the only sounds coming from the birds whizzing overhead, and the light rustling of leaves. Meals are served al fresco, with miles of the scenic landscape at which to gaze. While we were hard-pressed to leave the grounds, we knew the mountains had much to offer in the way of adventure.

    Hiking the Atlas Mountains and villages

    One misty morning, we set out on a two-hour guided trek toward a Berber village. The Berbers, an ethnic group native to Northern Africa, have a history that dates back to medieval times. The language and culture of the Berbers are still thriving in many parts of Morocco, specifically in the Atlas Mountains.

    Sheep

    En route to the village, we passed a herd of woolly sheep and abandoned homes overrun with fields of yellow wildflowers. There were no roads, only donkey tracks, and the occasional moped.

    Local home

    Our guide brought us to a village home where we were taught the ceremonial process of making Berber mint tea.

    Homemade bread Mint tea ceremony in local village

    The matriarch of the family showed us her technique, which involved a series of constant pouring and re-pouring. First, she placed the tea leaves into the pot and added boiling water. She swirled to warm the pot, and then rinsed the tea leaves. Next, she strained the water, reserving only the leaves.

    Village women

    She then added more hot water and allowed it to steep for a few minutes while we chatted—our guide acting as translator. Lastly, sprigs of mint, and a touch of sugar, were added to the teapot. We were honored and humbled by the chance to take part in a small piece of traditional Berber life. I will likely never have a mint tea experience that compares.

    Over-The-Top Travel Experience 2 / Hammam Spa: The Royal Mansour, Morocco

    A hammam, or Turkish bath, is a centuries-old, traditional, Arabic cleansing and bathing ritual. Modern variations of hammam can be found at hotels, resorts, and spas throughout Northern Africa and the Middle East.

    The Royal Mansour gardens

    Meant to boost the immune system, a hammam treatment uses hot steam to dilate blood vessels, and increase circulation throughout the body. Pores are opened, toxins are released, and the body is immediately refreshed. This sounded intriguing, and unlike any therapeutic treatment, I’d had in the past.

    The Royal Mansour hammam/spa

    I decided to visit the spa at The Royal Mansour Hotel, in Marrakech, to experience the hammam. I was told that their interpretation of it was one of the best in the city. Marrakech was aglow with high-density, prismatic, and outrageous color, but the spa at the Royal Mansour was decidedly the total absence of it.

    The Royal Mansour gardens

    I opened the oversized spa door and entered a world of polar white—a jarring contrast from the green gardens I had just left behind. Vaulted cathedral ceilings, a fountain overflowing with white roses, and pale, pastel couches—all within a room of white, wrought iron, latticework. It was ethereal.

    The Royal Mansour hammam/spa white roses

    Following a short respite on a daybed in the spa’s waiting area, I was summoned by the therapist. She asked me to lie down upon a hot stone platform in a cavernous, marbled, and windowless room. I happily obliged, and put my 21st-century cares behind me, relishing this 8th-century bathing ritual.

    A fragrant steam surrounded me, as the therapist scrubbed off layers of unwanted skin with a special black soap, and an abrasive Kessa mitt. It was harsh, and made my eyes water, but was surprisingly invigorating.

    The Royal Mansour hammam/spa white roses

    Next, she gently poured, and then shockingly threw, warm water across my body, waking me up in an admittedly unexpected way. She proceeded with a full body massage, using therapeutic oils, in an array of intriguing scents.

    Lastly, I was escorted to one last room. Bright light streamed through the window towards an inviting, private, plunge pool. Much to my immediate dismay, I discovered it was actually an ice bath. She asked me to immerse myself in the frigid water. While I was initially reluctant, I knew this eye-popping part of the treatment was meant to invigorate my skin, which after 90 minutes of pampering, felt as silky as a newborn baby’s.

    The Royal Mansour

    Hammam is an experience that is likely not everyone’s cup of tea, given its unconventionality. For me, however, it was all a part of the African adventure. No regrets, Marrakech.

    Over-The-Top Travel Experience 1 / Dinner on the Delta, Botswana

    There are few places in my travels that have moved me as much as Africa. I am a wildlife junkie and love any opportunity to see animals in the wild. It is no surprise that Africa, and Botswana in particular, would take up such significant space in my travel memories.

    Selinda Camp view

    After three days of game drives along the Okavango Delta, we thought we had seen it all. Lions, leopards, hippos, and elephants, filled our days and invaded our dreams.

    Elephants in the fields

    At the end of our last day in Botswana, Foster, our gentle and soft-spoken guide, took us back to our camp so that we could change for dinner. As we climbed out of the dust-covered Land Rover, our safari-weary bodies in need of a hot shower, Foster told us he had one last thing to show us.

    Leopard in tree Botswana

    My interest was piqued, but my body was shattered. In keeping with my ‘no regrets’ attitude, I climbed back into the Rover and rallied. We bumped along the bush for twenty minutes or so, getting farther and farther from camp, (and a hot shower). The sun was just starting to descend.

    We curved around a thicket of trees, startling a few baboons along the way when I spotted something unusual. Not more wildlife, something entirely unexpected.

    Sunset dinner

    Miles from civilization, miles from our camp, in the middle of the African bush, was a full-blown, pop-up dinner. A top-shelf bar was created around an ancient tree. A roaring bonfire mimicked the palette of the setting sun and was surrounded by chairs and blankets. A communal dining table set for twenty, and a lantern-lit pathway towards a fully functioning bathroom.

    Dinner was being prepared by cooks over open fires, and multiple mouth-watering aromas wafted through the air. I fleetingly wondered if the lions would find the smells as enticing as I did. We were awestruck.

    sunset

    The entire staff of our tent camp, plus the other guests, were treated to a fully-catered dinner in the bush. We sat for hours, eating and drinking, sharing and comparing stories of the day. We replayed our magical moments in the delta.

    Hippos in Botswana

    The low trumpets of elephants, and snorting grunts of hippos in the distance, were the musical soundtrack. With no one manning the camp, I wondered if the cheeky, resident, vervet monkeys were having a party. Botswana—I hadn’t even left, but I was already missing it.

    Experience matters

    We live in a world of bells, beeps, whistles, tones, and chimes—mostly coming from phones and screens. Our lives are filled with constant noise which interferes with our ability to relax and have calm.

    The sounds from these five experiences; the chimes of the sound bath, the wind whistling past us on a remote butte, and the trumpeting of distant elephants, were the antithesis of my normal cacophony. I embraced the sounds of these once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Unforgettable.

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    Find your next over-the-top travel experience:

    Take a lap of luxurious Lake Como, or just soak up the sun, in Italy.

    Tackle the Tetons of Wyoming this summer, with Amangani as your base.

    Set your sails on Croatia, and the Dalmatian Coast, by private charter.