A tiny square on Instagram stops me mid-scroll—a photo of a glass cabin perched above a stone jetty cantilevered over the sea. Through plate glass windows, a seated woman with a book on her lap gazes towards the horizon. The caption reads, “Can you see yourself in this chair?”
That was six years ago. If I’d seen it today, I would’ve been convinced the image was computer-generated. But in 2018, Instagram still depicted reality. Well, sort of.
“Yes!” I think to myself as that familiar swell of travel lust washes over me. “Yes, I can see myself there!” I look at the geo-tag, eager to learn the location of this enchanting chair.
Manshausen Island: 67°50.163’N, 14°46.462’E
I click on the map. Then zoom out. And out. And out. Finally, I recognize the shape of the country—Norway. I sigh. Not just Norway but a remote island off of a mainland village called Nordskot. Nordskot, population 56. The Arctic Circle. Manshausen Island is about as accessible as the moon. I swipe out of Instagram and put my phone away. I sigh again, this time in defeat.
Six years later, when planning our summer vacation, I remember that tiny square. Then, I build an itinerary around it.
Instagram vs. Reality
Who doesn’t love Instagram? Instagram is a portal to an alternate reality. Its mesmerizing photos pull us into a world of swoon-worthy vistas, avant-garde fashion, and food as art.
In 2018, the same year I covet that tiny square, Merriam-Webster declared ‘Instagram’ a verb. Hotels start dedicating Instagrammable spots to encourage social media posts, like Moet Chandon vending machines or waterfall swings. On Instagram, all the world’s a show, and everyone wants to be in it—or at least photograph it.
How would real-life Manshausen compare to its Instagram feed? I recognized the geographic hurdles and inherent risks. Getting there will take three planes, a ferry, and a speedboat. The weather could be hot and sunny or cold and rainy. The food could be inedible. The activities underwhelming. What if the island doesn’t even exist? I was acting on a gut feeling—hoping my family would trust it.
“Ummmm, I found this cool place on Instagram,” I tell them. “Ok, boomer,” my son shoots back, even though I’m not. My daughter raises an eyebrow. My husband says, “What could possibly go wrong?” Exactly.
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It’s the Journey and the Destination
So begins our journey to the Arctic Circle. We fly to Oslo, where we spend two nights at the architectural beauty, The Sommerro Hotel. From Norway’s capital city, we fly to the port town of Bodø to await the 7pm ferry. With hours to spare, we find an outdoor restaurant. I order a Pimms Cup in honor of Wimbledon just as Djokovic and Alcaraz amble onto the court. The sun is shining. We settle in for the match.
The ferry is the first of many surprises in Norway—a glorious introduction to the Arctic landscape and the power of the midnight sun. Passengers disembark at ports called Moskenes and Helnessund. Their spouses, dogs, and kids welcome them eagerly at the dock. I wonder what their stories are. What happens here in Helnessund? Do they know their village is all the rage on Instagram?
When we glide into Nordskot at 9pm, the sun is still high in the sky and casts a golden glow over the towering mountainscape. I imagine few places on Earth evoke a sense of utter breathlessness. The Norwegian islands in the Arctic Circle are some of them.
Angus Staples, one of Manshausen’s two hosts, meets us at the dock and lowers our bags into the boat. He looks like a mountain climber—rugged, compact, and deeply tanned. He whisks us to the island, the final leg of the journey that began with a tiny square on Instagram.
Instagram vs. Reality—the Moment of Truth
Any anxieties I have dissipate once Manshausen comes into view. I breathe a sigh of relief—thankful it exists. The glass cabins act like beacons, welcoming us to the island. The sun radiates off their metal exteriors, and the floor-to-ceiling windows mirror the placid, tranquil water. I see a wide dock stacked with yellow and red kayaks. A wooden sauna and a dozen bleating sheep are not far beyond it. We hear the low-piercing calls of seagulls above.
I hop off the boat to find my chair.
The Manshausen Story Started in 1698
Manshausen is a small, flat, rocky island. A mere 14 acres in all, its roots date back to 1698 when it was a part of the Grøtøya trading post. Its sheltered location made it ideal for the area’s thriving fishing industry. Until the 1800s, Manshausen was used as a fish export storage location. But by the 1900s, ships were just too large to reach the island, and the trading post went bankrupt. After that, the island went through several iterations (none Insta-worthy) until a man named Børge came along.
Børge Ousland bought Manshausen in 2010. And, along with award-winning architect Snorre Stinessen, built a destination for intrepid travelers. Børge is a real-life polar explorer, having spent over 30 years traversing the Arctic and Antarctic regions, often in the bleakest and darkest months.
I imagine when he visits Manshausen between treks, it’s a true respite, with its intimate sauna, simple and flavorful food, and majestic sea eagles soaring overhead.
Norwegian-born Ousland was the first to complete an unsupported solo crossing of Antarctica. He was a deep-sea diver in the North Sea, a Navy Special Forces Officer, and was married at the North Pole. Børge Ousland is an all-around badass. I want to meet him. Sadly, he isn’t at Manshausen when we visit. He’s probably taming orcas, wrestling polar bears, or swimming the Drake Passage.
I overcome my disappointment and focus on more important matters—the sea cabins.
Manshausen’s Award-Winning Cabins
The nine sea cabins and two towers at Manshausen have won over 40 design and architectural awards, hence their inherent stopping power on Instagram. To me, the cabins artfully honor the traditional rorbu (fishing cabins) of the early 1900s. Communities of brightly painted rorbus were positioned in protected harbors with the harbor-facing side of the cabin on poles. This design meant fisherman could easily access their boats each morning.
Today, most rorbus have been retrofitted as picturesque accommodations for travelers. Their fiery red exteriors pop against the green and blue landscape—the kind of imagery that, if you catch the light right, can go viral. Although not mine, unfortunately.
Set on stilts above rocks and the ebbing tide, Manshausen’s nine modern cabins are made of wood, glass, and metal. Their angles and stark edges contrast the natural elements yet meld harmoniously within the scenery. The warm wooden interiors are simple and highly functional, with cubbies, hooks, and storage nooks in all the right places—except for the bathroom. Angus, a few more towel hooks would be helpful, please.
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Franz Josef, Grønland, or Patagonia?
Each sea cabin on the island is named for one of Børge’s expeditions. The towers, Nansen and Amundsen, pay homage to his idols in polar exploration. It won’t surprise anyone who knows me that I heavily researched the ‘best cabin on Manshausen’ before booking. Phone calls were made. Aerial maps were navigated. Leaving this very important decision to fate was not an option.
Franz Josef sits just above the water and has uninterrupted mountain views. Its location at the far edge of the island means no one walks past our cabin, which is fairly important since they’re made almost entirely of glass.
The sea cabins advertise to sleep four people. In hindsight, we should have booked two cabins. During our stay, Norway experienced warmer-than-usual temperatures, and the second bedroom became an unwanted in-room sauna. I’m guessing this isn’t typical—unless you believe in global warming—otherwise, Manshausen should consider central air. Next time, we’ll book Patagonia, too.
Beach Mustard, Bread Ice Cream, and Other Culinary Surprises
Our three days on Manshausen are filled with round-the-clock sunshine, blue skies, and temperatures in the mid-70s. The weather is a gift in this part of the world known for highly changeable microclimates. I sit in my chair, but not as much as I thought I would. There’s too much to see and do.
Mornings on Manshausen are leisurely. Angus visits each guest at breakfast in the main house to confirm plans for the day. Ondrej, Manshausen’s chef and island co-host, creates magic in the open kitchen with a friendly and seasoned staff.
Ondrej tells us nearly all the ingredients he uses are foraged and sourced from the island and local area. On our first night, we have halibut topped with a plant I’d never seen. “It’s beach mustard,” Ondrej says, then mentions he’d found it earlier while walking. I later learn beach mustard is an aquatic herb with a salty, juicy flavor. It’s a spicy contrast to his light, flaky fish and poached tomatoes.
Overall, the food quality, presentation, and variety is another surprise. I’d been anticipating small, oily fishy fish like sardines and anchovies. Instead, we dine on freshly caught halibut and cod. Ondrej pairs unusual ingredients with familiar ones. We enjoy root vegetables like beets, cabbage, and parsnips in multiple ways. Truffle seaweed, pine shoots, and pine cones adorn our plates. Ondrej makes ice cream from leftover bread that he roasts and infuses with milk. Bread ice cream. Brilliant.
A Typical Day on Manshausen is Never Typical
One of the perks of never-ending sunlight is that activities are pretty much available 24/7. One night, our kids take the rowboat to Nordskot at 10pm in search of gummy bears. My husband and I watch from the cabin. Though we can’t hear them, it’s pretty clear from how the boat is rocking that they’re arguing. We look the other way.
Layers of mountains provide endless viewing entertainment. Norway’s mountainous mainland changes from green to blue to deep purple, and far beyond it, the Lofoten Island archipelago’s jagged peaks look like they were cut with a razor’s edge.
Manshausen offers adventures for every type of traveler. One morning we kayak, spotting our first sea eagles of the trip. Another day we fish, and my son catches four large halibut Ondrej will likely serve for dinner.
There’s hardcore mountain climbing along the Nordskot Traverse and more moderate hikes like the one we take to Resshola Cave. Otherwise known as ‘Troll’s Cave,’ it’s 140 meters deep and blankets us in complete darkness for the first time since arriving in Norway. Those trolls really know how to hide. I didn’t see a single one.
Each day, I walk the island, searching for treasures and following the sheep. All they do is eat and bleat. Bessie is my favorite, as she’s the hungriest and always lets me feed her.
Another woolly ewe wears a bell around her neck. I ask Ondrej if it’s so the staff knows where the sheep are at all times. “Actually, no.” He says, “It’s for the sheep. They get distressed when they can’t find each other, so the bell keeps them from getting lost.” At 2am, that very bell tells me the flock is grazing outside Franz Josef’s cabin. Such is life on Manshausen Island.
Sauna Culture
Sauna has been an integral part of Scandinavian culture since, well, forever. Many consider the sauna a sacred space, ‘Nature’s Church,’ a place to cleanse the mind, body, and spirit. It’s easy to see the allure. The mystical and traditional characteristics of the island permeate everything.
The wooden sauna sits beside a natural pool of water. Although the air temperature is warm, the water is anything but. Yet, it’s the best way to prepare, so we jump in and brave the chill. I cleanse my mind, body, and spirit multiple times a day. It’s so restorative my husband now wants one at home. Sauna—the ultimate Scandinavian souvenir.
Manshausen is Unreal/Real
After three days on Manshausen, we gather our things and get ready to meet the ferry. From Nordskot, we will head north to tackle the luminous Lofoten Islands, whose peaks we’ve been admiring in the far distance.
When the ferry floats in, it unloads a few new travelers destined for Manshausen. I wonder how they found it. Did they see it on Instagram? Which cabin did they get? I want to tell them to feed Bessie because she’s always hungry. And I want to prepare them for the ethereal colors of the sky at one o’clock in the morning. I want to hear what they think about bread ice cream.
I want to stay.
Manshausen blurs the lines between illusion and reality. Its location at the edge of the world furthers its dreamlike qualities. Once it’s entirely out of view, I turn around and face north. The Lofoten Islands are waiting. ‘But where will we go next?’ I can’t help but wonder.
I open Instagram and start scrolling.
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Author’s Note: For those who wonder how we packed for this trip, it was carry-on only all the way to the Arctic. My go-to brand is Eagle Creek. Their Gear Warrior Backpack was ideal for my 18-year-old son, pictured below.
