I am Lost and Found

Tag: Italy

5 Travel Wish List Destinations That Will Inspire

I am Lost and Found’s original tagline was ‘Luxury Travel.’ Over the years my travel tastes evolved and ‘luxury travel’ felt limiting. Plus, I wasn’t only traveling to luxury hotels anymore. So I changed it to ‘Adventure and Luxury Travel.’ Eventually, even that felt limiting. I thought about the goals of my site. I am Lost and Found inspires travel—so ‘Inspiring Travel’ it is. Ready for inspiration? Follow along for five travel wish list destinations I’m dreaming about right now.

It’s another sticky, steamy day in DC. I should be doing something productive. Instead, I’m at my local coffee shop sipping an iced latte and daydreaming about future travels. I spin the globe in my mind. Green continents and blue oceans swirl together like a Van Gogh immersion experience. It takes my attention away from today’s news where most of the world is covered in a sheath of orange and red.

I pause over Norway—an appealing place right now for obvious reasons. Breathing crisp, cool, Arctic air sounds blissful. I take another sip of coffee and add it to my travel wish list, suddenly energized to write.

I keep spinning the globe. The next few hours unfold easily.

Join me as I waste time. Time that could be spent figuring out the dinner my kids will complain about least or watching the next intestine-twisting episode of The Bear. Read along for the next installment of my top five travel wish list destinations. Lord knows my husband will regret he didn’t join me this morning. This post is going to cost him.

Travel Wish List: 5 / Manshausen Island, Norway

A telling indicator a place belongs on my travel wish list is when I can’t contain my emotions after discovering it. Those times I frantically fire off picturesque screen grabs to my husband, Daniel, and impatiently wait for a thumbs-up emoji—eager to book it before he can blink. This is exactly how I feel when I look at Manshausen Island’s website. Obsessed.

Manshausen’s seven modern sea cabins and two sea towers hover over the water. Glass windows take full advantage of the spectacular views. It’s easy to see why the sea cabins have won so many design awards. They’ve adopted a ‘compact living’ mentality, focusing on comfort and ‘calm minimalism’. I’ve never heard of calm minimalism but I’d love to book a one-way ticket there and never look back.

Where is Manshausen Island?

Manshausen is a 55-acre island off the coast of northern Norway, across the fjord of the Lofoten Islands. In the late 1600s, Manhausen was a trading post. Today, it’s owned by famous polar explorer, writer, and photographer, Børge Ousland who turned Manshausen into one of the world’s best-kept secret adventure destinations.

I deep dive into Børge Ousland’s Wikipedia page. Ousland began his career as a Norwegian Special Forces Officer. In 1994, he made the first unsupported trek to the North Pole from Russia’s Arctic Cape. Then, as if that wasn’t bad-ass enough, in 1996 Børge Ousland was the first person to cross Antarctica solo. That he did it unsupported, on skis, and over 58 days makes my head spin like the globe I was daydreaming about earlier. Oh, and then he got married at the North Pole in 2012. Ok, Børge, simmer.

What to do on Manshausen Island?

Some activities on Manshausen Island abide by the seasons while others are enjoyed year-round. Sea kayaking, fishing, trekking, mountain climbing, traversing, cave touring, and eagle spotting are just a few of the Nordic adventures on hand. Add on wellness and culinary programs that touch upon all of the senses and it’s pretty clear why this island north of the Arctic Circle is so captivating.

Børge Ousland notwithstanding, visitors don’t need to be polar explorers or Special Ops to fall for Manshausen. Coastal museums, fortresses, fishing villages, and the original 1690 trading post are travel-worthy attractions nearby. Personally, I’d be content sitting at my panoramic sea cabin window with a cozy blanket, the latest Ann Patchett novel, and a glass of wine.

USP (Unique Selling Point) #1: The Northern Lights in the winter or the midnight sun in the summer? How to choose when to visit this Arctic escape from reality? Manshausen Island will just have to count as two travel wish list destinations. Do I see another thumbs-up, Daniel?

USP #2: Børge Ousland.

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Travel Wish List: 4 / Katmai National Park, Alaska

I count eight brown bears wading in the current. I see two bear cubs lumbering over slick boulders, pawing one another like feisty toddlers. A gull swoops overhead catching the attention of mama bear, who is competing with another bear for a fishing spot. The gulls’ caws, the gurgling river, and the steady gush of waterfalls are the only discernable sounds.

I’m not at Katmai National Park, but oh how I wish I was. Instead, I’m one of 2393 wildlife ~~geeks~~ enthusiasts simultaneously viewing Alaskan brown bears on the Brooks Falls bear cam. I’ve been watching them for longer than you’d imagine possible and have even started giving names to my faves.

Where is Katmai National Park?

Located on the Alaskan peninsula across from Kodiak Island, Katmai National Park and Preserve is 300 miles south of Anchorage. Katmai was designated a national monument in 1918 in order to protect it after a volcanic eruption in 1912. The area, 18 volcanoes strong (seven active), is also known as the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Whoever’s in charge of Katmai’s branding deserves a raise. I’d visit based on the name of that valley alone.

What to do at Katmai National Park?

The bears are the main attraction in this incredibly remote and untamed part of the American wilderness. That’s why I want to go. I want a front-row seat to see Yogi, Baloo, and Teddy catch sockeye salmon in real-time. The grainy webcam footage, while highly addictive, just isn’t cutting it.

Katmai is one of the top ten least visited national parks in the United States with just under 25,000 tourists last year. Compare that to Yellowstone’s 3 million and I’ve easily uncovered another great reason to visit.

The park is home to more than 2000 Alaskan brown bears. Grizzlies are the smaller species of brown bears and live further inland. If bears aren’t your thing, feel free to move on to my next travel wish list entry. But, if bears aren’t your thing, we should reconsider our friendship. Just kidding, I have lots of friends who don’t like bears.

Flightseeing, boating, catch-and-release fishing, backcountry hiking, and camping make Katmai National Park a haven for adventure seekers. There aren’t enough luxury hotel products on Earth to get me to camp in the backcountry though. That’s where the grizzlies are! My adventure mindset has limits.

USP: Grizzly bears, Alaskan brown bears, bear cubs, bears catching sockeye salmon, bears swimming, bears frolicking beneath waterfalls, Yogi, Baloo, and Teddy…

Travel Wish List: 3 / Wildflower Farms, New York

Built in 2022, Wildflower Farms is a modern ode to the Hudson Valley. Its tranquil and serene landscape seems to have sprouted up like the wildflowers for which it is named. An all-season boutique property, Wildflower Farms has an epicurean program that celebrates the region and a wellness program that celebrates healthy living. It’s clear there is much to celebrate at Wildflower Farms.

Where is Wildflower Farms?

Those who hail from the East Coast will have likely heard of the Hudson Valley. Just 90 miles north of New York City, the Hudson Valley is so renowned for natural beauty, it inspired an artistic movement. In the 19th century, the Hudson River School was founded by Thomas Cole and other landscape artists who were influenced by Romanticism.

The Hudson River School’s realistic paintings depict a pastoral world where humans and nature coexist in harmony. A romantic notion indeed! With 65 free-standing cabins and cottages set on 140 secluded acres, Wildflower Farms, an Auberge property, artfully continues the movement’s philosophy of awe and wonder.

What to do at Wildflower Farms?

The valley’s Hudson School may have been heavily influenced by romance but Wildflower Farms appeals to both couples and families alike. There are so many activities I want to take part in I’m considering asking if I can be a summer intern. Fall intern? Carrot peeler?

I can tell that a weekend at Wildflower Farms won’t be enough time for me to express my inner artist. Do I take a class in Botanical Mixology or Botanical Baking? Should I make pressed flower pottery or bake floral focaccia?

How do I choose the best ways to activate my sporty side (yes, Daniel, I have a sporty side)? Do I fly fish or forage, e-bike, or wine taste? Wine tasting is a sport, right? I scan the wellness menu. What if I can’t fit in Mountain Mat Pilates or a Sound Bath? Champagne problems at Wildflower Farms abound.

USP: Ridge Suites have views of the Shawangunk Mountain Range interrupted only by fields of wildflowers. We can either climb the rugged Shawangunks, admire them from the suite’s floor-to-ceiling windows, or grab a brush and start painting. Given enough time, I would happily do all three.

Click Here. Get My Wish List Destination Hot Sheet Free.

Travel Wish List: 2 / ULUM Moab, Utah

Some of our favorite vacations have been to national parks located in desert locations: Joshua Tree, Canyonlands, and Arches, among them. We’ve stayed at AirBNBs, rustic lodges, and super swanky hotels. But glamping at ULUM Moab is a class of accommodation all its own.

For anyone not familiar with glamping, it means ‘glamourous camping’, a term open to wide interpretation. I’ve glamped in places that were a far cry from the ‘glamour’ advertised. ULUM Moab appears to have found the sweet spot for adventure and luxury to coexist.

Its 50 safari-styled tent suites have private viewing decks. There are three dipping pools, a yoga deck, and modern common spaces that embrace indoor/outdoor life. Add in Parachute Linens, Aesop products, and bespoke Pendleton wool blankets, and this glamping destination offers better amenities than most traditional hotels.

Where is ULUM Moab?

Located 25 miles south of Moab and within reach of multiple national and state parks, ULUM Moab is a secluded desert paradise. The camp is set on 200 acres of red rock formations and mesas and is just steps from Looking Glass Arch. ULUM Moab is the ultimate introduction to the beauty of the American Southwest.

What to do at ULUM Moab?

On-site activities at ULUM Moab range from relaxing guided nature walks, sound bath meditations, yoga, and stargazing. Your Adventure Concierge (yes, that’s a thing) will help curate off-site excursions like white-water river rafting, kayaking, paddleboarding, National Park tours, and canyoneering. If you haven’t canyoneered, you haven’t lived. It’s one of the funnest activities of all time (and yes, I’m aware funnest isn’t a real word).

At night, as you prepare to stargaze, sit by the bonfire and make polite chit-chat with other like-minded adventurers. Swap stories about the slot canyons you discovered while canyoneering or how you snored through the sound bath. Then grab your Pendleton blanket, a bottle of wine, and settle into the dark skies and constellations above.

USP: With 360 mountain views by day and starry skies by night, ULUM Moab has perfected glamping—the ultimate way to get comfortable in nature.

Travel Wish List: 1 / Dolomites, Italy

The last time my insides physically ached from witnessing natural beauty was a few summers ago in Jackson, Wyoming. The Tetons were so striking, so unbelievably scenic in their razor-cut jaggedness, that I was compelled to photograph them for hours each day. By day three, my husband wanted to feed me to the bears. If the Italian Dolomites are making my insides ache just from my Instagram feed, I can’t imagine what would happen if I saw them in real life.

Where are the Dolomites?

The Dolomites are a mountain range in northeastern Italy. They are sometimes referred to as the ‘Pale Mountains’ due to the carbonate minerals in the rocks. In 2009, they were officially named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Dolomites have been around for millennia. Why it took so long for UNESCO to recognize them is a mystery.

The Dolomites boast some of the most unique and beautiful hotels in the world. Many of them have won awards for design and architecture. The hotels are so swoon-worthy, I wouldn’t know how to choose one without having FOMO about the others.

What to do in the Dolomites?

While renowned for winter skiing, there is much to do in the Dolomites in the summer months, too. This mesmerizing mountain range is the center of the region’s universe. It’s where the luckiest hotels face and the point from which many adventure activities revolve.

Some of the hotels in the Dolomites defy gravity, like the ultra-modern Alpin Panorama Hotel Hubertus. Others, like Forestis, have mountain-facing private pools that make it impossible to leave the room. Aman’s Rosa Alpina (soon to reopen) embraces traditional alpine architecture and has a restaurant with three Michelin stars.

Climbing, hiking, waterfall chasing, rafting, and mountain biking will appease those with an adventurous spirit. Wellness retreats, spas, and woodland walks will satisfy those looking to reset and recharge.

USP: With over 20 Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, the Dolomites are a wish list destination for foodies, too.

Wasting Time

It’s hot in DC, and just about everywhere else in the world right now. I’m sure the oppressive heat has much to do with how these travel wish list destinations came about. Fresh, crisp, mountain air, fields of wildflowers, calm desert-scapes, and bear-filled streams are all pretty enticing right now.

I imagine myself sitting here next January—cupping my latte, complaining about the cold, and daydreaming about warmer climes. I’ll once again spin the globe in my mind, excited to see where I land, and ready to write another batch of travel wish list destinations.

Click Here. Get My Wish List Destination Hot Sheet Free.

Author’s Note: I am grateful to the hotels who kindly gave me high-res photos for use in this post. I’m also using Unsplash for the first time, and praise the photographers who are giving away their gorgeous photos for free. Typically, I only feature my own photos. But alas, if I had my own pictures of these wish list destinations, they wouldn’t be on my wish list.

July 30, 2023
This Lake Como Hotel Has Great Expectations

The Lake Como hotel everyone is talking about these days is Il Sereno. With a Michelin-starred restaurant and all-encompassing lake views, it’s no wonder this lakeside gem is so hot. Take a peek inside this glamorous, yet understated, Lake Como hotel and start packing.

It’s hard to think of a destination with more at stake than Lake Como. Famous for extravagant villas, breathtaking views, Neoclassical hotels, decadent food, and the Clooneys, of course. Lake Como has a lot to live up to. Choosing a Lake Como Hotel, however, is a no-brainer.

Where is Lake Como?

Lake Como is about an hour from Milan airport, but in many ways, a world apart from the busy city. It’s a wonder there aren’t more accidents on the narrow, winding roads that curve serpentine around the lake. We aren’t the only ones with mouths agape, trying desperately to catch a view as we peel around corners. It’s like we are in fear that the lake may vanish if we didn’t see it at that very moment.

Boats dot the water, looking computer-generated and perfectly placed Truman Show-style. Sailboats mix in with wooden Rivas, Vaporetto water taxis, and other flashy speedboats. One especially unique sight is of two nearly naked Italian men in a narrow canoe, most certainly intoxicated, rowing their hearts out to American jazz. The lake offers all kinds of entertainment!

When it comes to Lake Como Hotels: Research pays off

After a fair amount of hotel research, we opt to go against the Renaissance and Neoclassical grain. We choose a new, mid-century modern Lake Como hotel. Il Sereno sits quietly on the edge of the lake, in one of the prettiest spots on the eastern bank.

It’s a stark contrast to the lakes’ expected architecture. A contrast that calls for a moment’s pause, as it somehow naturally feels like it belongs in that very spot. A wondrous feat by acclaimed Milan-based designer, Patricia Urquiola/ She created it in tandem with botanist Patrick Blanc in 2016. I read that she didn’t want to produce a ‘fake, old’ hotel. Instead, she was inspired to be modern in a sea of tradition.

The gardens are wild, yet elegant, with an ever-so-slightly haphazard feeling. But, make no mistake—each plant, flower, and tree has been purposefully and thoughtfully placed by Mr. Blanc to achieve this laissez-faire effect. One of the best moments of each day is the short walk to the hotel’s entrance. Vivid flowers line the entryway and spill out onto the path.

Lake Como’s Lake Drama

Part of what makes Lake Como so dramatic is how it looks magically dropped between the tall mountains like a puddle. No beaches, just the idyllic villages that cluster at the base of the mountains and on the edge of the water, usually with a church tower in sight.

Villas of all sizes creep up the steep hills, which makes Lake Como feel hidden away from the rest of the world. The ubiquitous Italian terra cotta and slightly sloped rooftops lump together. They form a soothing warm palette against the green mountains and the brilliant blue lake.

Click here for my Free Wish List Destination Hot Sheet

Lake Como’s Glitzy Side

Lake Como, the third largest lake in Italy, is famously shaped like an upside-down ‘Y’, with the glitzy town of Bellagio at the crux of the three branches. We take a water taxi one morning from Il Sereno to the bustling village. It’s clear early on that Bellagio is destined to be a tourist trap, and we settle into a café for a cappuccino to discuss our next move.

Bellagio is pretty in a fairytale kind of way. It’s home to many Lake Como hotels along its steep, narrow lanes and cobbled streets. But, it’s heaving with uninspired and uninspiring boutiques, souvenir shops, and tourists. We think ahead to what lies beyond Bellagio.

The Other Bellagio

Google Maps pinpoints we are a 20-minute walk from the ‘other’ Bellagio. Quiet, unassuming homes, cobbled streets, and only one restaurant—a world away from the masses. We finish our espressos and take a scenic walk through Villa Melzi d’Eril Gardens en route to find the other Bellagio.

The villa and gardens of Villa Melzi d’Eril date back to the 1800s. While the villa itself is not open to visitors, the stroll through the gardens is a highlight of our trip. We pass Japanese maples and koi ponds with large flowering lily pads. Enormous trees, oversized rhododendron, and clusters of mature hot pink azalea bushes line the paths. Some trees are so old and knotted they hang precariously over the lake like frail, flowered limbs.

Ancient cedar trees and various Egyptian and Roman sculptures complement the botanical scene. Twenty minutes later we find ourselves in a little village where time seems to have completely stopped.

Finding Silvio in Lake Como

There are no shops or boutiques in this other Bellagio, just quiet, peaceful, steep lanes. We meander towards Silvio’s. We arrive at noon, early by Italian standards, and the kitchen isn’t open. Ordering a bottle of white wine seemed the Italian thing to do. So we do it and settle into the afternoon. It’s the antithesis of our early morning start in Bellagio, which is already a distant glitzy memory.

Silvio’s is a genuine European throwback. Built in 1919, this Lake Como hotel has only 21 rooms and is simple and lovely in a timeless way. The vine-covered garden patio where we have lunch slowly begins to fill up, and a muted buzz sets in. Fresh fish, local homemade pasta, and delicious olive oil for the warm bread have us taking our time. Soon enough two hours have passed.

The Lake Como Hotel with 360 views

Our room at Il Sereno is a corner suite that boasts a long outdoor terrace and unobstructed lake views through the floor-to-ceiling glass windows. This Lake Como hotel is a mix of contemporary and functional design and uses a combination of natural materials. Ms. Urquiola is adventurous in her scope. Leather, fabric, stone, wood, and metal, all feel as if they are meant to be combined.

The exterior lines of the hotel itself are a lesson in geometry—a Bauhaus lover’s dream. Offset by the lush gardens, Il Sereno, while über-modern in architecture, looks inviting and warm, rather than severe and angular.

Despite the fabulous materials, architecture, and gardens—natural light is the ultimate design component in this Lake Como hotel. And it comes at no cost. When light is used the way it is at Il Sereno, every room and detail naturally reaps the benefits.

Lake Life and Pool Life at Il Sereno

The large, rectangular pool at Il Sereno looks as if it is hovering above the lake itself. At 60 feet long and dotted with well-placed loungers and teepee-like canopies, it’s a perfect spot to waste time. The dedicated pool staff is on hand with wine, water, towels, and just about anything else we need. Clouds roll past and create different patterns on the lake’s surface. I find it impossible to concentrate on my book. Eventually, I give up altogether and succumb to the views.

Click here for my free wish list destination hot sheet

The Lake Como Hotel with a Michelin Star

One of the main draws of Il Sereno is its restaurant, Berton Al Lago. Milan-based restauranteur/Michelin-starred chef, Andrea Berton, and Executive Chef Raffaele Lenzi team up to create a chic vibe in a grotto-like Venetian stone setting.

The original stone archways are over 100 years old and create an intimate dining experience. They artfully frame the awe-inspiring mountains. Each time I walk past an archway, a new and slightly different view appears.

The food is modern Italian, using ingredients sourced from Il Sereno’s own gardens. The wall-to-ceiling glass wine cellar, with its sleek, modern fixtures, is a dramatic focal point. The wine list is equally dazzling. We choose the tasting menu and put ourselves in the chef’s hands.

It’s one of those moments when Lake Como decidedly lives up to its amplified reputation. The service may have been a touch slow, but we soon realize that is just the Italian way. Slow and relaxed, leisurely and calm. Maybe we have something to learn from Italian life?

Food for Thought in Lake Como

Having only three dinners in Lake Como, we give some thought to satiating our inner foodies. My husband had seen an Instagram post for Ristorante Crotto dei Platani, and we spontaneously booked it based on the idyllic lake setting.

The veranda at Crotto dei Platani floats above the lake, with snow-capped Italian Alps in the distance. It’s a bucolic scene worthy of its many insta-likes. But truth be told, the food is conventional, and we felt that the restaurant relies on its epic views at the sacrifice of the food.

The next night we drive inland for a Northern Italian meal. We sacrifice the lake view for an intimate, hilltop village restaurant in Cernobbio. In the early 1900s, Trattoria del Glicine was a rest stop and community center for passing villagers. Now, it’s a beautiful family-run trattoria.

Its outdoor veranda is on a quiet street and ancient wisteria hangs en masse overhead. Our waiter jokes that he isn’t sure ‘if the canopy is holding up the wisteria, or the other way around’. Either way, it’s a tranquil and serene dining experience. Diners hoping to walk in for a coveted table are sadly turned away. I try not to look smug.

The food is local, fresh, and authentic—exactly what we are hoping for. It’s worth passing on the lake for this tucked-away spot in the middle of nowhere.

Great Expectations in Lake Como

As we prepare to leave this idyllic Lake Como hotel, I’m reminded of a moment just a few days earlier when we first drove into the town of Como.

That Sunday morning the crowds were minimal, the shops closed, and from the medieval side streets, we heard only the occasional clanking from kitchens preparing for lunch. I didn’t know what to expect then. I didn’t know if Lake Como was just an overhyped tourist destination that couldn’t live up to expectations.

Sometimes, it’s nice not knowing what to expect.

Click here for my free wish list destination hot sheet

April 30, 2022
5 stunning villas that will inspire your next getaway

Planning a villa getaway

Now is the time to start planning a villa getaway. Villas, as opposed to hotels, is a natural choice for social distancing. They are inherently secluded and allow guests to spread out. Villas erase the need for babysitters or restaurants since a personal chef can be one of the decadent perks of villa life.

Finding the right villa can be a labor of love. It needs the optimal balance of indoor and outdoor living and is designed with views in mind. They need to have just the right collection of ‘toys’, whether for age 4 or 40.

Super-luxe amenities may include an infinity pool, a beachfront location, and a built-in sound system. A fully-stocked, complimentary, wine cellar, and a yoga sanctuary. These are all in the mix of what makes a villa good, versus absolutely mind-blowing.

These days, understated luxury is all the more sought after. As opposed to extravagant, over-the-top, opulence. The biggest compliment for a villa is that it is so tranquil and so thoughtfully laid out that no one ever wants to leave it.

What follows are my top five villas around the globe. Get ready to pull the trigger.

Best Villa Getaway #5

One-Bedroom Pool Villa at The Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Marrakech, Morocco

Villa Vibe: Modern-riad oasis

The Moroccan property of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel is a short drive from the famous Medina of Marrakech. Yet, it feels like another world. It has over 20 hectares of jasmine patches, olive trees, and 100,000 fragrant roses. The hotel’s 54 private villas dot the property in a scenic serpentine route. Reflecting pools and majestic, wavering palms abound.

Why I like the villas at the Mandarin Oriental:

The austere, one-bedroom pool villa has a rose-covered entry and an oversized, wooden door that opens into a private courtyard.

A long, dramatic, pool welcomes guests like a red carpet to the Oscars. At its far end, the pool morphs into a sheltered hot tub. It nestles squarely against the sliding glass doors of the master suite.

Each room opens up to the central courtyard, reinforcing the blurry edges of indoor and outdoor living. Contemporary Moroccan decor is captured in subtle ways. Soft Berber rugs, elaborate, stone artwork, and even the design details of lampshades.

A hammam-inspired shower is an Arabic bathing ritual used for cleansing. It’s an added luxurious feature of the villa. Yet, it posed yet another distraction from exploring the mesmerizing city of Marrakech.

USP (Unique Selling Point): An elongated, horizontal fire pit cuts into the courtyard wall. An outdoor kitchen and bar, with plush outdoor sofas, make the inside of the villa nearly redundant. It’s just this combination of open-plan architecture overlaid with total seclusion, that makes this hotel villa so enchanting.

Best Villa Getaway #4

The Three-Bedroom Beach Residence at Sugar Beach, St Lucia

Villa Vibe: Colonial charm, perfected

The majestic, towering Pitons are a duo of volcanic spires and the visual centerpiece of the island of St Lucia. They stand at 2,618ft and 2,438ft respectively. The Pitons are the geological defining feature of this mountainous paradise in the Windward Islands.

Viceroy Sugar Beach, once a thriving 18th-century sugar plantation, won the Caribbean lottery on location. It’s one of only two resorts that rest between the Pitons, and the only one that is beachfront. They’ve been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. At any given time of day, one Piton is lit to perfection, while the other lies in dramatic shadow.

Both Pitons are magnificent around the clock. In fact, they are so highly regarded, that they are proudly displayed on the national flag, as well as the name of the local beer. Two high honors, indeed.

Why I like the beach residences at Sugar Beach:

Our plantation-inspired, three-bedroom beach residence has uninterrupted 360 views of the sea. It also sits steps from the beach. Standing on the expansive pool deck, I look to my left—Gros Piton. I look to my right—Petit Piton. Straight ahead are crystal clear cerulean waters. Each direction I face is more inspiring than the next.

Every room has large glass-paned windows that face the ocean. Sliding glass doors reinforce the melding of indoor and outdoor life. From the lantern-lit deck, we watch the chartered catamarans and sailboats slowly drift in and out of the harbor. An unvarnished portrait of the seascape is constantly re-imagined before our eyes.

Four-poster beds have romantic, voile draping that evoked a dream-like sanctuary. White-on-white, silky Egyptian cotton linens, contrast with wooden, colonial touches. Natural jute weaves and rattan adds to the breezy vibe of the residence.

A long, infinity pool parallels the sea, hovering just high enough above it so that it feels as if we are swimming laps alongside the horizon. The connecting hot tub makes for the most secluded sundowner spot on the island.

USP: Beach residences come with a personal butler to attend to all needs that may arise during the stay. Guests are given a cell phone with their direct dial. Butlers can organize excursions, massage appointments, and food and beverage stocked upon arrival.

Best Villa Getaway #3

Casa Majani, Punta Mita, Mexico

Villa Vibe: The ultimate in understated luxury

Punta Mita is an exclusive resort community in Nayarit, Mexico. It has long been associated with understated, beachfront beauty. It’s also the home to both St. Regis and the Four Seasons resorts. Set upon 1500 swoon-worthy acres, and surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on three sides, the lure of Punta Mita is palpable.

There is no shortage of heart-stopping villas to be found on this gently manicured private peninsula in the Pacific Ocean. However, the serene undercurrent of Villa Casa Majani mimics the peninsula itself, with water as its defining feature.

Why I like Casa Majani:

Casa Majani boasts six seductive bedrooms, interconnected via garden-filled pathways, Manzanillo trees, and meandering reflecting pools.

Photo Credit: Casa Majani

Suite Keili is one of two master suites and is best described as a ‘bedroom island.’ The infinity pools that surround the suite look on towards the ocean. They mirror the prismatic colors of the Mexican sky.

Photo Credit: Casa Majani

The architectural centerpiece of the villa is the enormous thatched-roofed grand palapa loft. Infinitely breezy, it plays many roles. Pre-dinner cocktail lounge, shady reading nook, or whale-watching perch.

The natural hues and wooden accents are in line with a modern Mexican aesthetic. Touches of bright, traditional colors like persimmon, fuchsia, and lime green, accent the decor artfully.

On our visit, it takes all of one morning for the seasoned staff to remember each of our names, as well as our caffeinated vices. Mini tacos with fresh guacamole appear poolside before anyone’s stomach had the chance to rumble.

Hand-crafted cocktails magically arrive at the first signs of dusk. A dedicated concierge helped facilitate our needs, whether organizing an on-site masseuse, or a group tequila tasting.

Photo Credit: Casa Majani

USP: Casa Majani is a destination unto itself. But should guests decide to venture off-property, access to the Four Seasons and St Regis resorts is included. Given that Casa Majani has its own yoga studio and gym, one should choose excursions wisely.

Best Villa Getaway #2

Villa Laura, Cortona, Italy

Villa Vibe: Under the Tuscan sun, literally

A sweeping property just outside of the walled Italian village of Cortona is the famed setting of the film, Under the Tuscan Sun. Guests of Villa Laura, have an opportunity to create their own Tuscan memories in this restored 17th-century villa.

Why I like Villa Laura:

The movie and book are based on Frances Mayes’ experience at Bramasole, which means ‘to yearn for the sun.’ It’s something you may never do, as the property fully absorbs every ray of sunlight, whether indoors, or out. Three unique buildings nestle within the property and manicured gardens. The Villa, the Farmhouse, and the Limonaia. There are ten ensuite guest rooms between them.

The buildings date back to 600AD, and part of the charm of Villa Laura is the history that is sensed as you spend time exploring the grounds. The washed stucco villa, with sage green-painted shutters, changes color from pale yellow to rich gold over the course of the day. Light shifts and unfolds. The stone-walled farmhouse has an outdoor dining area that overlooks miles of the verdant Italian countryside.

USP: Every outdoor path presents one stunning photo opportunity after another. A grand pool, a hot tub, and an organic vegetable garden complete the scene.

Indoors, guests will find a pool table, games room, and stocked wine cellar. The nearby village of Cortona might be calling, but it will undoubtedly be difficult to answer.

Best Villa Getaway #1

Villa Ixfalia, St Barths

Villa Vibe: Swanky French Riviera

The overgrown jungle-like entrance of St Barth’s Villa Ixfalia is deceptive. Perhaps, this is intentional—the drama of a velvet curtain opening at showtime. A wooden planked path leads guests through a wide threshold and into a vast, open-air living space.

Why I like Villa Ixfalia:

Over twenty rattan lampshades dangle above in varying shapes, sizes, and heights. Yet, as mesmerizing as they may be, chances are you won’t notice them. Your eyes will be instinctively drawn ahead.

Cue the panorama. The only thing that lies between you and the Caribbean Sea is a glacial blue infinity pool. Perched several hundred feet in the air, you may feel you are swimming in the sky. Vistas overlooks the beaches of this swanky European-influenced island.

Rooms are designed in soft earth tones, and with natural textiles, all sea-facing. Some have private outdoor showers, and all have flat-screen Apple TVs and found objects. Bleached animal skulls, driftwood sculptures, and gigantic white shells add to the nature-inspired villa vibe.

The master bedroom’s king-sized bed faces floor-to-ceiling glass doors that open to the pool. One feels miles above the world, both literally and figuratively. A welcomed distance from reality.

USP: The infinity pool and patio have tiers of large, double-wide sun loungers and captivating views of Eden Rock Resort. Guests will find themselves in a constant conundrum—wanting to explore the island but never wanting to leave the villa. With a dedicated butler and French chef on hand, there is virtually no need.

Get villa-inspired

Many of these villas fall firmly in the ‘understated luxury’ category. But there are countless iterations of this vacation to suit different budgets and geographic restraints.

There are local Airbnbs, far-flung Airbnb Luxe destinations, intimate cabin stays glamping or mountain treehouses. Then, of course, there are luxury hotels that offer private villas and residences. All you need is a bit of inspiration and creativity. A villa vacation can’t come soon enough.

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October 27, 2020
The Best (and Only) Lunch in Erbonne, Italy. Pop. 11

Often, my husband and I head off the beaten path, so to speak, and wing it, when we travel. When we visited Lake Como, we did just that one morning and were rewarded with the best lunch to be found just outside of Lake Como, at the only restaurant in the tiny hamlet of Erbonne.

It was a surprise that one of our best lunches in the Lake Como area was not at a stone grotto-ed Michelin-starred restaurant, or on a lakeside patio with the majestic Alps in the distance. It was a surprise that we didn’t need to get there by Vaporetto or pull up to a parking lot filled with purring Maseratis. It turns out, our pre-COVID trip to Italy was filled with surprises.

Glamourous Lake Como

Lake Como is distractingly beautiful, with much to offer from both visual and culinary perspectives. Soaring mountains plunge directly into the illustrious lake. Villages puddle neatly between valleys, and ceramic-tiled rooftops notch up the hills like bricks of red legos. Restaurants dot the perimeter of the lake, each offering breezy umbrella-ed decks from which to gaze.

Glacial Lake Como is awfully pleased with itself and has every right to be, nestled in this idyllic locale just an hour from Milan. It is no wonder it has been a retreat for aristocrats, and for the rich and famous, since Roman times.

The lake itself offers a postcard image with each blink. Gorgeous boats (blink) alongside glitzy lakeside hamlets (blink) and swoon-worthy waterside cafes (blink). Glamorously dressed Italians, with their equally glamorous dogs in tow, teeter about (blink, blink, blink). A snapshot of chic Italian life, all in one dreamy destination.

Daytrippin’

As glamorous as Lake Como may be, the explorer in me wondered what might lie just beyond the glam. Counterintuitively, we headed away from the lake, with nothing but our Lonely Planet guidebook, and a tiny, bumblebee of a car—a cadmium yellow, Fiat 500.

Buzzing up and around the steep hilltop villages of Lombardy offered us a chance to experience the less touristy side of Lake Como. The rustic, the rambling, and the boutique-free side. Always chasing a view, we set off to see the fabled lakes from above. Our destination was Cima Sighignola, also known as the Balcony of Italy.

Not surprisingly, it was a challenge to get there. Roads became so narrow we were sure we were driving on sidewalks. Lanes looked so private, we confused them with driveways. Every turn had us doubting our navigation system, which due to never-ending hairpin turns, often had our Fiat floating in the middle of a lake.

The balcony of Italy

At 3120 meters above sea level, Cima Sighignola’s uninterrupted views of the lakes were worth the (gray) hair-raising turns. From our tourist-free aerie, we could see Lake Lugano, the city of Lugano, and the Swiss Alps, all at once.

We hovered there longer than we anticipated, mesmerized by the panorama of the lakes, and the mountain peaks that kissed the clouds. An elderly Italian woman appeared from a small wooden shack, with a better-than-expected espresso. This shouldn’t have been a surprise. After all, this is Italy, a country whose self-worth is inherently coffee-based.

Population 7, 10, or 11?

Blindly following our Lonely Planet through another series of sharp switchbacks, we headed towards Erbonne, in the commune of San Fedele d’Intelvi. This pre-roman, 3000-year-old, pin-prick of a village was once smugglers crossing between Italy and Switzerland. It was off-the-beaten-path, even by Lonely Planet standards.

We were on a mission to find Osteria del Valico, the sole restaurant of Erbonne for the past 100 years. As of 2017, Wikipedia stated that the village of Erbonne had eleven inhabitants. Other sources claimed the population was anywhere from seven to ten. Regardless of the facts, this was a place worth finding.

Erbonne’s best/only lunch

With a total of 50 buildings (a combination of houses and stables) what Erbonne lacks in structure, it makes up for in ultra-rustic beauty. Erbonne, on the edge of the Swiss border, is surrounded by layers of overlapping mountains, and a verdant, green patchwork of fields.

The village has no parking. I don’t mean ‘it was hard to find a parking space’. I mean literally, there is no parking. Not to be deterred, we left the car outside of the village and walked. Wispy, yellow, grasses lined our path, and created a colorful backdrop to the simple pink, red, and white, homes clumped in the near distance.

Climbing roses stuck firmly to painted walls. Patches of struggling wildflowers clung to dear life on crumbling edifices. Flowers poured out of semi-neglected window boxes. In Erbonne, time seemed to stand eerily still.

Carbo-loading in Erbonne

Osteria del Valico was easy to find. After all, it was the only restaurant in the village. Ancient, gnarly, wisteria vines had taken permanent ownership of the osteria’s once-white facade. Wooden steps, warped by time, led to the humble tavern entrance.

We were guided through the original ‘shabby chic’ dining room towards the outdoor patio. The wide, planked floors had undoubtedly seen decades of foodies pass over them. Crooked black and white photo frames, filled with patrons from days long gone, adorned the walls. Lacy curtains, a collection of vintage ladles, and a chalkboard-scrawled menu made the grandmother’s closet vibe that much more charming.

From the patio, we heard musical Italian laughter coming from a table within. The unmistakable sounds of friends with a long, comfortable history. I had noted the large group earlier. It was entirely possible that every known villager was having lunch there that day! Church bells chimed the hour in the distance. We settled in.

The House Special

Lonely Planet declared that Osteria del Valico’s house specialty was pizzoccheri. Never one to argue with our travel bible, we promptly ordered. If it was good enough for the seven, ten, or eleven, locals of Erbonne, it was good enough for us. It turned out to be one of our best dishes on the trip. Surprise!

Pizzoccheri is a buckwheat pasta (80% buckwheat flour, 20% wheat flour), along the lines of tagliatelle, usually cooked with greens and cubed potatoes (carbs on top of carbs). It is layered in various kinds of cheese, like Valtellina Casera and ground Parmigiano Reggiano, before being dressed with garlic and fried lightly in butter.

I swore I couldn’t eat it all, and I kept swearing—until I ate it all. How often do I get to have lightly fried pasta, I rationalized. Oh, and did I mention the charcuterie board piled high with Italian meats, and rustic Italian bread, that we had already consumed? I made a mental note to cancel dinner.

A family affair in bucolic Erbonne

Osteria del Valico has changed locations over the years, and by 2002, had settled into a stone house on the edge of town. We met the chef/owner, his wife, and his daughter, as well as a Swiss couple who had driven over for lunch from Geneva. Ahhhh, to live in Europe.

The chef, wearing a bad-ass skull patterned beret (that is if a beret can ever be considered bad-ass), and his wife, were engaging, warm, and friendly, despite the language barrier. In an effort to communicate, we attempted to find a common language. Eventually, French triumphed, as both my husband and the chef were fluent.

Found Moments in Erbonne

Osteria del Valico has very little in the way of web presence. Aside from a few Trip Advisor comments, and a simple webpage, it is virtually off the Google grid. A place like this; challenging to find, with simple fare, and a convivial vibe, is what I call, a true ‘lost and found’ moment.

It’s likely true that not everyone will find this kind of day trip as exciting as we did. Not everyone gets a thrill from seeking out a lone restaurant, in a tiny village, with an unknown population, with the hope of uncovering the undiscovered. We are those people.

Exploring a combination of experiences when visiting a place with as much hype and hyperbole as Lake Como, gave our trip more depth. I relished the juxtaposition of the obvious and the hidden. Both have a place in Lake Como and its bucolic surroundings. Why not have a bit of each? Chances are, you will be pleasantly surprised.

Find it:

Osteria del Valico: https://osteriadelvalico.business.site/
Balcony of Italy: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/balcony-of-italy-balcone-ditalia

August 9, 2018

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