I am Lost and Found

Tag: Morocco

Taking on the Medina, and More—What To Do In Marrakech

What To Do In Marrakech, A Guide /

Were it up to me, The Caliph’s House by Tahir Shah would be required reading for anyone traveling to Morocco. Without reading this candidly funny novel, I would’ve been confused, baffled, and bewildered during our visit to Marrakech.

After spontaneously moving his family to Morocco from the UK, Shah buys a home—the Caliph’s House —and begins the arduous task of renovating it. At the same time, he’s attempting to rebuild his family’s lives in a foreign country. They learn all too quickly that nothing in Morocco goes exactly as planned and never in a time frame that makes outward sense.

Rational and irrational thinking collide in a whimsical and often unbelievable manner. I laughed out loud throughout the book, loving the effervescent and colorful prose.

Magical Arrivals

Shah’s story lingers in my mind as we exit the doors of Marrakech Airport, a piece of jaw-dropping architecture worth a visit in its own right. Our task? To locate our hotel sign among the several hundred Moroccan taxi and limo drivers. I think the logo, an iconic fan, should be pretty easy to spot.

My husband and I take several loops of the crowd together. Then, we split up and took a few solo loops. No sign. No driver. Eventually, we stand at the center of the crowd, which forms a circle around us—a five-minute lapse. Then a strange thing appears on my left—a very large sign on a very tall stick with a very black fan logo. Our driver has materialized, seemingly out of thin air.

I ask him where he’s been all this time. With absolute surprise and genuine sincerity, he replies, ‘Madame! But I have been standing right here the whole time!” My husband and I look at each other in disbelief. Then I remembered Shah’s story and relaxed. There’s no point in arguing with him. He’s been here the whole time, of course. We must have overlooked him. So begins our journey in Marrakech.

Be the first to know when I find a new place to get lost. Just click.

What To Do In Marrakech: Get Lost In The Souks

I have a list of adjectives that illustrate Marrakech—vibrant, eclectic, bustling, electric. However, the buzzy current of the Berber Empire is much more than what is seen on the surface. So what do we do during our week ahead in this energized city?

First up is the Medina—the old walled medieval part of town. The Medina is a dense maze of Moroccan capitalism with a photo op at every turn. I learned that the souks (markets) are not solely for souvenir shopping. As I wander the narrow passageways, I see layers of activity.

I stumble upon an entire alley of shoemakers. Each stall was about as wide as the shoemaker himself. In a series of memorized movements, he hammers, cuts, and then casually tosses the leather soles into a pile of identical soles. Another alley has lantern makers. The artisans punch through thin copper to create delicate pieces as they’ve likely been doing for a century. While it looks like a performance for tourists, it’s simply everyday life.



What To Do In Marrakech: Hire A Guide

We hire a private guide, knowing he will take us to his brother’s uncle’s best friend’s rug shop. His predictability makes me smile. Yet, how would we see market life in full swing without him? The haggling and negotiating. The rug seller’s touristy ceremonial show, with steaming hot mint tea. We’re told to go back the next day without a guide if we find something we’d like to buy. We will likely get a better price since no commissions will need to be paid—an insider tip.



Our guide steers us towards beautiful architectural gems, including the ornate Bahia Palace. He secures a reservation at a lively rooftop restaurant and gives us enough sense of local history that we aren’t walking nose-deep in our guidebook.

We buy local argan oil from sellers promising eternal youth and an end to age spots and smell colorful spices waft through the air. Snake charmers fleece us after draping cobras around our necks, refusing to remove them until a suitable price is paid. We love every minute of the chaos (even the snakes) and give props to his entrepreneurial skills.

What To Do In Marrakech: Eat Above The Markets

Restaurant Nomad’s entrance is in the Medina’s dark, narrow corridor. We climb an equally dark, narrow staircase, wondering if this is really where we want to have lunch. We reach a door and then immediately shield our eyes. The sun is high in the sky above us on Nomad’s exposed rooftop patio overlooking the Medina.

We are handed straw hats to deter the sun and settle into our seats as if on cue. We observe the markets from above and feel fortunate to have secured such a prime spot to eat. The food was classic Moroccan, with mezze platters and yogurts, house-marinated olives, tagines, and traditional briouat (savory puff pastry filled with meat, cheese, lemon, and pepper). A long, leisurely lunch ensues.

Terrasse des Epices

And while we love Nomad, we enjoy the next day’s rooftop lunch even more. Terrasse des Epices is a hot lunch ticket, with crowds from morning until night. Terrasse des Epices has sheltered alcoves to sit and absorb the convivial scene. The clientele is a mix of families and hipster tourists. A Moroccan DJ from Essaouira is set up in the middle of it all, dancing and having the time of his life.

Our DJ doesn’t miss a beat and plays new remixes of old classics that inspire even the 40-somethings on the terrace. No one looks like they have any desire to leave. This may be partially because Terrasse des Epices is one of the only restaurants within the Medina walls to serve alcohol. We order a bottle of rosé and stay put for a while.

Be the first to know when I find a new place to get lost. Just click.

What To Do In Marrakech: Stay At The Mandarin Oriental

When traveling a city, we typically spend the morning wandering and sightseeing, have lunch, and then head back to our hotel to lounge for the afternoon. We chose the Mandarin Oriental, 10 minutes from the city center. It’s an enormous and tropical property, and we feel far from the hustle of town. The hotel has 54 stand-alone private villas, most with private pools in walled courtyards.

The entire property is alive, with rose bushes in full bloom. 100,000 fragrant roses are spread over 20 hectares, and we admire them one afternoon via the hotel’s complimentary bikes. Bougainvillea, golden barrel cacti, climbing vines, and mature olive trees dot the landscape.—an explosion of flora.

The hotel design is modern Moroccan decor: bold, graphic lines, black and white marble, tall, narrow archways, and shallow inner courtyard pools.



What To Do In Marrakech: Don’t Leave The Room

Our room feels like a home—but not my home, mind you. It has a living area with a daybed and a bar. A platform bed in the master suite looks squarely onto a long rectangular pool. The oversized bathroom has a personal hammam-style shower and a deep stand-alone tub.

The outside space also boasts a daybed, an outdoor kitchen, and a beautiful fireplace the staff will light upon request. It’s a challenge to pull ourselves away for dinner.

What To Do In Marrakech: Dine at Al Fassia

Another Caliph’s House moment presents itself at dinner. I’d made a few early reservations, and Al Fassia, an all-women-run restaurant, was high on my list. I know there are two locations, so I’m sure to be clear about the location we would like to go. Fifteen minutes later, we are dropped off at Al Fassia.

It’s a tranquil oasis—lush, romantic gardens and outdoor nooks. We walk in and give our name only to discover, you guessed it, we are at the wrong Al Fassia. And no, this location has no available tables this evening.

We call another taxi and head to the other Al Fassia. The food is good, but the first Al Fassia would have been a better choice, as it was in a less urban environment—another exercise in patience in the frenetic world of Marrakech.

What To Do In Marrakech: Shop and Haggle

The following day, we shop. We aimlessly wander the ancient passageways, picking up souvenirs for our families at home. While waiting for my friend to pay at a nearby stall, I stand against a wall to take in the whirlwind of market life. Perhaps, only because I’m not moving do I notice an interesting shop set further back from the others.

I walk into a treasure trove of beautifully curated art pieces, ceramics, textiles, furniture, and rugs. Old and new, Moroccan and Persian—it’s a visual explosion. Hakim is the owner, and his warm and friendly manner entertains us as we shop. Hakim prepares tea for us. It has thick bundles of mint leaves overflowing from colorful rattan-wrapped glasses. It’s a welcome respite from the bustle of the souks.

Click here for a self-guided tour of the souks! The best way to uncover the Medina’s secrets!

A Story of Two Paintings Bought Six Years Apart

Hakim’s hidden shop is called La Porte d’Or. His clientele includes interior designers, politicians, and celebrities who seek him out from across the globe.

My husband and I immediately zero in on a piece of art—a mixed-media piece with old, sepia-tinged pages floating amidst calligraphic Arabic typography. As is expected, we haggle and get to a price we can all live with. Then, I notice another piece by the same artist—the perfect companion to the one we are about to buy. I ask Hakim for the price, and he says it’s not for sale. I smirk. He’s kidding, of course; isn’t everything for sale here?

But Hakim holds firm, and we walk out with just one piece of art. For years after, Daniel and I have always wondered about that piece and why he wouldn’t sell it to us.

Scrolling Instagram six years later, I notice a friend from New York is in Marrakech on vacation. I DM him a shortlist of must-see spots, including Le Porte D’Or. I joke that if he sees Hakim, to tell him I’ve never forgotten about the artwork he refused to sell.

Within the hour, my friend is not only in the shop but has found our long-lost piece of art. After some haggling, a WhatsApp exchange, and a wire transfer, the art we’d fallen in love with in 2018 is bound for DC. I’m again reminded of the whimsy and serendipity of The Caliph’s House. The magic of Marrakech can’t be underestimated.



What To Do In Marrakech: ‘Enjoy’ A Hammam Experience

We’re told not to miss a hammam treatment (a traditional Moroccan cleansing and bathing ritual). A friend had recommended traveling to the spa at The Royal Mansour, although most hotel spas offer the hammam treatment.

If Marrakech is a city of high-density, magnetic, and outrageous color, then the spa at the Royal Mansour is quite positively the total absence of it.

I step through a dark, thick, wooden doorway and enter a world of double-height glass cathedral ceilings and white roses—set within a room of white wrought-iron latticework. It’s a stark contrast to the vibrancy of life outside. Then, I’m led to a lounge with cushy daybeds where I await my therapist.

The Royal Treatment

The treatment itself leaves my skin feeling like a newborn baby. First, I lay on a hot slab of marble where the therapist scrubs off layers of unwanted skin with an abrasive Kessa mitt. Next, warm water is poured (actually thrown) all over me.

A massage with various therapeutic oils is next, followed by an eye-popping cold water plunge that brings me back to reality. I’ll admit, it’s an unusual way to get pampered. Yet, I felt shockingly invigorated. The treatment awakens senses I didn’t even know I had.

The Magic of Marrakech

Marrakech is a city of layers, each revealing something unique and mesmerizing. I realize I’ve only just begun to scratch the surface. In hindsight, I wish I’d stopped more often to absorb it. Marrakech was constantly in motion, and I was too often caught in the wave.

Tahir Shah and his family had a year in Morocco to discover the culture, explore the country, and immerse themselves in the local traditions. We have two weeks. But I thank Shah for preparing us for the time we did have there through humor, candor, and wit. For allowing me to laugh things off that would have otherwise frustrated me.

Marrakech is a city to unwrap, like a treasure. Perhaps one day, I will have another chance to explore it.

Book It:

The Caliph’s House charts a year’s journey of Tahir Shah and his family. They uproot their lives by leaving dreary London for Casablanca’s colorful, captivating world. Funny, candid, and insightful, I couldn’t have enjoyed my trip to Morocco nearly as much if I hadn’t read this memoir first.

Bonus: Take On The Countryside

The scenic Atlas Mountains are only an hour outside of Marrakech. What better way to combine a little countryside with our busy city experience? Our next stop? The decadent and low-key Kasbah Bab Ourika. Follow me there.

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

March 3, 2024
5 Books About Travel (That Will Inspire Travel)

A book about travel has power. A book about travel can take us to Botswana, Bolivia, or Bhutan. It’s literary escapism—an easily accessed portal to another time and place. But most of all, a book about travel, when done well, inspires travel.

(Please note a few affiliate links below. I may receive a small referral fee should a product be bought through my site but rest assured, I only highlight products I own and use.)

My love of books is old and runs deep. I have vivid memories of reading Nancy Drew, circa 1978, by a sliver of light seeping into my bedroom from the hallway. I’d lay on my green shag carpet by that light and read voraciously—always fearful my mom might appear and send me back to bed.

My taste in books has varied over the years. Thrillers and mysteries monopolize my 20s. Chick-lit and romance novels reign over my 30s. Historical and women’s fiction dominated my 40s. These days, I read to escape—to travel the world through ink on paper.

Travel Inertia

Inertia is defined as a tendency to do nothing or to remain unchanged. After a few years of watching mind-numbing TV (did anyone else finish Netflix?) and dodging calls from Spam Risk, even I had a case of travel inertia. I overcame it by planning a few trips, to places like Maine, the Catskills, and Corsica.

But travel isn’t what it used to be. Flights are increasingly delayed or canceled. Luggage is lost. Five-star service is anything but. The luster of travel is dismally dulled by current conditions.

I wonder how best to reignite the travel spark. Perhaps I’ll go back to the basics. Books, and especially books about travel, have always transported me. They’ve fueled my wanderlust and given me the means to break away from everyday life. Even if momentarily.

My treasured tomes, don’t fail me now.

Five Books about Travel (That Will Inspire Travel)

Being a graphic designer for a large part of my adult life gave me a deep appreciation for Garamond, Baskerville, and Times Roman. The legends of literary fonts. I used to kern ligatures with a surgeon’s precision. I’d swoon over book jackets at Barnes and Noble, the ones with an elegant marriage of typography and imagery. My husband would joke I judged books by their covers. He was right.

There are many books about travel that have encouraged me to pack my bags and get out of town. But these five in particular have been the most influential. Whether because they take me to a part of the world I know little about or a part of the world I’d like to revisit.

So, grab a Kindle. Or, if old-school like me, head to a local bookstore or library. (My DC go-to is Politics & Prose). Check out my favorite books about travel. I hope they encourage you to escape reality, one way or another.

What’s on my travel wish list? Click here: Get my Wish List Destination Guide FREE.

A book about travel / Morocco

The Caliph’s House: A Year in Casablanca, By Tahir Shah

What’s the gist?

English travel writer, Tahir Shah, takes a gamble to fulfill a childhood dream by moving his family from London to Casablanca. Their new home is Dar Khalifa, the Caliph’s House. It’s an unmitigated money pit located on the edge of a shantytown.

In his unputdownable memoir, Shah attempts the arduous task of rebuilding the Caliph’s House while simultaneously building a life in a foreign country. As he learns all too quickly, nothing in Morocco is simple, straightforward, or goes according to plan.

For instance, renovations come to a screeching halt once Shah learns his house is filled with jinns (invisible spirits). The rituals used to rid the house of these spirits are just one flawlessly written and animated element of Shah’s outrageous black comedy. A tale of perseverance and grit that also portrays a distinct and evocative sense of place.

Why this book about travel inspires

On the advice of a friend, I read The Caliph’s House before our trip to Morocco. Not only did it illustrate the colors, sights, sounds, and even tastes of the country, but it also brought modern-day Morocco to life with self-deprecating and utterly candid humor. Thank you, James.

Power Quote: “I found myself trapped in an awkward position. … I had a gangster for a neighbor, a house marooned in a shantytown with no title deeds and the weather was getting bad. And I was now being told that I should abandon the house because an invisible spirit was angry with us living there.”

The Caliph’s House is compelling in ways well beyond jinns and gangsters. Shah’s characters, from gardeners to government officials, are multi-faceted and vibrant from page one. His writing pulls readers into a well-woven Moroccan tapestry of myths and traditions—whether describing a crooked street or a crooked carpenter. Read The Caliph’s House, or redeem some well-earned miles and go live it. Either way, Morocco will not disappoint.

Shop It:

The Caliph’s House

A book about travel / Italy

Beautiful Ruins, By Jess Walter

What’s the gist?

From the backlots of Hollywood to the rocky coast of Italy, Beautiful Ruins is a social satire of an almost-love affair spanning decades and continents. The book has been said to portray the real-life love affair between Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton after filming Cleopatra, in 1963.

Beautiful Ruins opens with Hollywood starlet Dee Moray arriving at a quiet Italian coastal village by boat in the early 1960s. She claims to be dying of cancer. Pasquale, a young and starstruck hotel owner, falls in love. So begins a story of tortured love, masked identities, and failure.

Why this book about travel inspires

Artfully written with multiple and parallel storylines, Jess Walter’s descriptions of the Italian Riviera and California are equally captivating. The pristine beaches and brightly-colored hilltop homes of the Cinque Terre come to life alongside his theatrical characters.

Power Quote: “Porto Vergogna was a tight cluster of a dozen old whitewashed houses, an abandoned chapel, … all huddled like a herd of sleeping goats in a crease in the sheer cliffs. Behind the village, the rocks rose six hundred feet to a wall of black, striated mountains. Below it, the sea settled in a rocky, shrimp-curled cove…”

Walter’s book is filled with brilliant depictions of romantic coastal hotels and sun-baked yachts. These movie-like scenes and scenery may inspire a journey to this ever-glamorous part of the world. With a sharp sardonic edge and a dramatic plot that builds in intensity, Walter’s novel is escapist fiction at its best.

Shop It:

Beautiful Ruins

A book about travel / The Arctic Circle

The Memoirs of Stockholm Sven, By Nathaniel Ian Miller

What’s the gist?

This extraordinary account of a young Swede who flees Stockholm to seek solitude in the Arctic Circle after a tragic accident leaves him disfigured.

Completely original in voice, with endearing, misfit characters, The Memoirs of Stockholm Sven somehow manages to describe a stark, colorless landscape in vivid color. The book weaves a tender web of human suffering and connection while illuminating the perils of living in an isolated and nearly inaccessible place.

Why this book about travel inspires

My friend Gretchen recommended Miller’s book before our trip to Finnish Lapland. What better way to be immersed in the vastness of the polar regions than to read a novel set in the Arctic Circle?

From Stockholm to Svalbard, Miller’s narrative evokes the breathtaking arctic polar tundra with pitch-perfect prose. While living in remote Svalbard, Sven, despite his best efforts not to, befriends a troupe of compelling characters. A Finnish fur trapper, a Scottish geologist, a polar bear, and a devoted canine each play fundamental roles in Sven’s epic adventure.

Power Quote: “Tapio sat himself on a large piece of driftwood, so I did the same. A gentle swell rocked the beach iceberg bits against each other. The sun was beginning its hasty swoop to the horizon, and light passed through the ice in unruly refractions. The blue was almost more than I could take.”

I read about Sven’s endeavors at night by a warm fire with a cup of herbal tea. I try to anticipate the 22 hours of darkness that await us each day in Finland. Miller’s descriptions of the Arctic are so convincing, that I get chilly while reading. Well done, Mr. Miller. I’m patiently waiting for your next book with a heap of woolly blankets.

Shop It:

The Memoirs of Stockholm Sven

What’s on my travel wish list? Click here: Get my Wish List Destination Guide FREE.

A book about travel / The Amazon

State of Wonder, by Ann Patchett

What’s the gist?

Patchett’s novel, State of Wonder, is set deep in the South American Amazon. Dr. Marina Singh, a pharmacologist, finds herself traveling to Brazil to investigate the strange disappearance of a colleague.

There, Dr. Singh travels downriver by pontoon, passing tribes that have yet to lay eyes on white people. Tribes that don’t speak a traditional language, but merely use sounds. From murder and mystique to friendship and feminism, this rollercoaster of a novel takes twists and turns as intricate and death-defying as the Amazonian jungle itself.

Why this book about travel inspires

At once a story of a personal pilgrimage as well as a page-turning thriller, Patchett is an artist with words. Her canvas is the verdant rainforests of Brazil. State of Wonder conjures up the raw and thrilling emotions that go along with traveling to far-flung locations and being outside of our comfort zone. Her prose ignites wanderlust in the purest sense of the word.

Whether describing a microscopic plant cell or a writhing anaconda, her words dive deep into the undergrowth and visually explode off the page. State of Wonder combines suspense and absorbing characters while delivering an unexpected ending.

Power Quote: “Every drop of rain hit the ground with such force it bounced back up again, giving the earth the appearance of something boiling.”

Lest you think I’m encouraging a trip that will have you encountering poisonous dart frogs or 8-foot snakes, it’s the sense of place that’s most evocative here. The joy of heading into unchartered territory, whether from a travel perspective, or a literary one.

Shop It:

State Of Wonder

A book about travel / Everywhere

Less, by Andrew Sean Greer

What’s the gist?

Failed, aging novelist, Arthur Less, accepts a series of invitations to literary events around the world to avoid the wedding of a former boyfriend. A brilliant satire that takes Arthur from a mishap in Morocco to a brush with death in Berlin, to being deserted on a desert island.

A reminder that what comes around goes around, this tale of human nature hilariously illustrates the perils of running away from our problems. While reading about Arthur’s escapades, I find myself laughing out loud. A lot. Fall in love with our endearing protagonist as he not only loses his luggage but his grasp on reality.

Why this book about travel inspires

An imaginative and absorbing tale, Greer takes the reader around the world with fresh humor, self-deprecation, and sharp wit. From the ever-busy streets of New York City, the culinary world of Japan, and the romantic rooftop hotels of Paris. Readers will revel in the details of Arthur’s visit to India, cheer for him in Germany, and despair as he becomes unhinged in Mexico.

Power Quote: “New York is a city of eight million people, approximately seven million of whom will be furious when they hear you were in town and didn’t meet them for an expensive dinner, five million furious you didn’t visit their new baby, three million furious you didn’t see their new show, one million furious you didn’t call for sex, but only five available to meet you.”

A touch of Jerry Seinfeld, a sliver of Carrie Bradshaw, and a handful of ‘Just Jack’. Oh, and a million laughs. Less will have you laughing out loud, too.

Note: There’s now even more Less to love. Greer’s latest book Less is Lost, (Hey, I’m lost too!) is climbing up the bestseller lists as we speak. This time we follow Arthur and his mishaps on a road trip across America. Is there hope for Arthur after 50? I, for one, can’t wait to find out.

Shop It:

Less

NYC, 2018

A book about travel is a powerful thing

The best books about travel are the ones that immerse me in the landscape and culture. The ones that allow me to smell the food and taste the wine. I’m in awe of writing that prepares me for a journey into unknown regions. Whether that be South America, South Dakota, or New South Wales. It’s a different way to explore the world, for sure, but still pretty satisfying.

I no longer have to read sneakily behind my mom’s back (Mom, I bet you knew all along). I’m a grown-up now. I can read all night if I want to. Although I ~~can’t~~ don’t. Getting old ain’t for sissies, as my dad likes to say.

A book about travel is powerful beyond its transporting nature. It’s how we learn about other civilizations and people. It’s how we expand our mindset and our vocabularies. Its power is right there on the page. You need only be able to stay awake long enough to absorb it.

Safe travels.

What’s on my travel wish list? Click here: Get my Wish List Destination Guide FREE.

September 21, 2022
5 of the best unforgettable and over-the-top travel experiences

Vacation, as the dictionary states, is ‘an extended period of leisure and recreation, especially one spent away from home or in traveling.’ Most of us are long overdue. So, when that much-needed vacation finally comes, make it an unforgettable travel experience. Read on for some much-needed travel inspiration.

Travel, whether I like to admit it or not, comes with a certain amount of expectation. I might say, “Oh, I’m happy at any beach, as long as I can relax with a book,” or “I don’t care about the hotel room, I’ll be outside most of the day anyway.” Or even, “The service isn’t that important as long as the food is really good.”

But, in reality, I care. A lot.

Relaxing on a beach with soft sand underfoot is lovely, as long as it isn’t facing an off-shore power plant. I would prefer not to stare at a construction site from my hotel room, regardless of how little time I spend in it. And, service does matter, especially when my room key decides not to work at midnight.

Yes, I have expectations. So, what happens when already high expectations are exceeded? When what I already imagine will be great—is even greater? Those unforgettable moments, while few and far between, are the ones I relive time and again. These are my top five.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 5 / Helicopter Sundowner: Amangiri, Utah

Amangiri is a resort tucked away along the southern border of Utah, where it meets Arizona. As with many Aman properties, Amangiri is small, and a challenge to find, which adds a level of exclusivity that attracts many luxuries, adventure travelers. Their excursions are equally exclusive and unique.

One such excursion presented to us while there, was the chance to watch the sunset over the Utah desert. That’s not terribly unique, one might think. How about watching the sunset, with a bottle of chilled champagne, from the top of an isolated butte, via helicopter? Now that’s more like it.

We spied on the desert from above, the blades of the helicopter sliced the dry air, and made the trip worthwhile from lift-off. The pilot steered us towards Glen Canyon Dam, and then Horseshoe Bend, the iconic shape of the landscape giving credence to its name.

From this vantage point, hovering over the deep canyon, I could see the striations of rock that had formed over millions of years.

We landed on a nearby towering butte, the flat top was an ideal place for the pilot to set up our champagne sundowner.

The terrain was a sea of gold, the rich mesas, and distant buttes picked up the colors from the sun, and the sky dissolved into moody shades of blue. From our aerie, champagne in hand, and no sound aside from the whirling wind, the world stood still.

Despite the high price tag of the excursion, I had no regrets. Even years later, it is one of the most unforgettable travel moments in my memory. And while my husband might disagree, who can put a price tag on that?

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 4 / Sound bath: Blackberry mountain, Tennessee

More than ever, wellness activities have emerged as daily essentials. Whether a 10-minute morning meditation, a mid-day walk, or a late afternoon restorative yoga session, wellness is more mainstream than ever.

In the past, I had tried a few sound bath experiences from my phone, mainly to help me relax before bed. I was curious to try one in person. So when a girlfriend and I decided to take a trip to Blackberry Mountain, we signed up right away.

Our instructor’s voice had a lulling cadence. He introduced us to the practice of sound bathing, which has nothing, incidentally, to do with bathing, or water. The room had high ceilings, and was drenched in creamy, warm light. He was surrounded by a multitude of instruments; gongs, rainmakers, and chimes, among them. A lovely setting in which to spend the next 90 minutes.

Six of us formed a wide semi-circle on the floor and draped ourselves in soft blankets. The instructor then placed a lightly scented lavender cloth over our eyes. Just five minutes in, and I thought that this was already exceeding my expectations.

The senses in my body awakened, and I melted into the sounds. The gongs overlapped the chimes. The chimes overlapped the rainmaker, which sounded like waves crashing onto a beach. First softly, then gaining power, before receding again. I fell asleep, I think. Then awoke to tuning forks in G major, chants, and quite a few unnameable sounds. The vibrations of those sounds lifted and settled within me, as I drifted in and out of a dream-like state.

Towards the end of the sound bath, the group was asked to slowly sit up. I reluctantly followed orders. The gauzy roller shades had been raised, the curtains drawn—had I even noticed them earlier?

I found myself facing purple mountains— the start of sunset. The ridge was razor sharp, and pink and orange hues were just beginning to appear behind it. I smiled. Then I wondered when I could do the whole thing all over again. One reason, of many, to return to Blackberry Mountain.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 3 / Berber Tea ceremony: Atlas Mountains, Morocco

An hour’s drive, and yet a thousand miles away from bustling Marrakech, are the mesmerizing Atlas Mountains. We were on our way to Kasbah Bab Ourika, a rustic oasis nestled gently in the mountains.

A holiday at a kasbah feels intimate and secluded, the only sounds coming from the birds whizzing overhead, and the light rustling of leaves. Meals are served al fresco, with miles of the scenic landscape at which to gaze. While we were hard-pressed to leave the grounds, we knew the mountains had much to offer in the way of adventure.

One misty morning, we set out on a two-hour guided trek toward a Berber village. The Berbers, an ethnic group native to Northern Africa, have a history that dates back to medieval times. The language and culture of the Berbers are still thriving in many parts of Morocco, specifically in the Atlas Mountains.

En route to the village, we passed a herd of woolly sheep and abandoned homes overrun with fields of yellow wildflowers. There were no roads, only donkey tracks, and the occasional moped.

Our guide brought us to a village home where we were taught the ceremonial process of making Berber mint tea.

The matriarch of the family showed us her technique, which involved a series of constant pouring and re-pouring. First, she placed the tea leaves into the pot and added boiling water. She swirled to warm the pot, and then rinsed the tea leaves. Next, she strained the water, reserving only the leaves.

She then added more hot water and allowed it to steep for a few minutes while we chatted—our guide acting as translator. Lastly, sprigs of mint, and a touch of sugar, were added to the teapot. We were honored and humbled by the chance to take part in a small piece of traditional Berber life. I will likely never have a mint tea experience that compares.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 2 / Hammam Spa: The Royal Mansour, Morocco

A hammam, or Turkish bath, is a centuries-old, traditional, Arabic cleansing and bathing ritual. Modern variations of hammam can be found at hotels, resorts, and spas throughout Northern Africa and the Middle East.

Meant to boost the immune system, a hammam treatment uses hot steam to dilate blood vessels, and increase circulation throughout the body. Pores are opened, toxins are released, and the body is immediately refreshed. This sounded intriguing, and unlike any therapeutic treatment, I’d had in the past.

I decided to visit the spa at The Royal Mansour Hotel, in Marrakech, to experience the hammam. I was told that their interpretation of it was one of the best in the city. Marrakech was aglow with high-density, prismatic, and outrageous color, but the spa at the Royal Mansour was decidedly the total absence of it.

I opened the oversized spa door and entered a world of polar white—a jarring contrast from the green gardens I had just left behind. Vaulted cathedral ceilings, a fountain overflowing with white roses, and pale, pastel couches—all within a room of white, wrought iron, latticework. It was ethereal.

Following a short respite on a daybed in the spa’s waiting area, I was summoned by the therapist. She asked me to lie down upon a hot stone platform in a cavernous, marbled, and windowless room. I happily obliged, and put my 21st-century cares behind me, relishing this 8th-century bathing ritual.

A fragrant steam surrounded me, as the therapist scrubbed off layers of unwanted skin with a special black soap, and an abrasive Kessa mitt. It was harsh, and made my eyes water, but was surprisingly invigorating.

Next, she gently poured, and then shockingly threw, warm water across my body, waking me up in an admittedly unexpected way. She proceeded with a full body massage, using therapeutic oils, in an array of intriguing scents.

Lastly, I was escorted to one last room. Bright light streamed through the window towards an inviting, private, plunge pool. Much to my immediate dismay, I discovered it was actually an ice bath. She asked me to immerse myself in the frigid water. While I was initially reluctant, I knew this eye-popping part of the treatment was meant to invigorate my skin, which after 90 minutes of pampering, felt as silky as a newborn baby’s.

Hammam is an experience that is likely not everyone’s cup of tea, given its unconventionality. For me, however, it was all a part of the African adventure. No regrets, Marrakech.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 1 / Dinner on the Delta, Botswana

There are few places in my travels that have moved me as much as Africa. I am a wildlife junkie and love any opportunity to see animals in the wild. It is no surprise that Africa, and Botswana in particular, would take up such significant space in my travel memories.

After three days of game drives along the Okavango Delta, we thought we had seen it all. Lions, leopards, hippos, and elephants, filled our days and invaded our dreams.

At the end of our last day in Botswana, Foster, our gentle and soft-spoken guide, took us back to our camp so that we could change for dinner. As we climbed out of the dust-covered Land Rover, our safari-weary bodies in need of a hot shower, Foster told us he had one last thing to show us.

My interest was piqued, but my body was shattered. In keeping with my ‘no regrets’ attitude, I climbed back into the Rover and rallied. We bumped along the bush for twenty minutes or so, getting farther and farther from camp, (and a hot shower). The sun was just starting to descend.

We curved around a thicket of trees, startling a few baboons along the way when I spotted something unusual. Not more wildlife, something entirely unexpected.

Miles from civilization, miles from our camp, in the middle of the African bush, was a full-blown, pop-up dinner. A top-shelf bar was created around an ancient tree. A roaring bonfire mimicked the palette of the setting sun and was surrounded by chairs and blankets. A communal dining table set for twenty, and a lantern-lit pathway towards a fully functioning bathroom.

Dinner was being prepared by cooks over open fires, and multiple mouth-watering aromas wafted through the air. I fleetingly wondered if the lions would find the smells as enticing as I did. We were awestruck.

The entire staff of our tent camp, plus the other guests, were treated to a fully-catered dinner in the bush. We sat for hours, eating and drinking, sharing and comparing stories of the day. We replayed our magical moments in the delta.

The low trumpets of elephants, and snorting grunts of hippos in the distance, were the musical soundtrack. With no one manning the camp, I wondered if the cheeky, resident, vervet monkeys were having a party. Botswana—I hadn’t even left, but I was already missing it.

Experience matters

We live in a world of bells, beeps, whistles, tones, and chimes—mostly coming from phones and screens. Our lives are filled with constant noise which interferes with our ability to relax and have calm.

The sounds from these five experiences; the chimes of the sound bath, the wind whistling past us on a remote butte, and the trumpeting of distant elephants, were the antithesis of my normal cacophony. I embraced the sounds of these once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Unforgettable.

Early Access to what’s hot

Click here. Be the first to know when I find a new unforgettable travel experience!

Find your next over-the-top travel experience:

Take a lap of luxurious Lake Como, or just soak up the sun, in Italy.

Tackle the Tetons of Wyoming this summer, with Amangani as your base.

Set your sails on Croatia, and the Dalmatian Coast, by private charter.

March 9, 2021
5 stunning villas that will inspire your next getaway

Planning a villa getaway

Now is the time to start planning a villa getaway. Villas, as opposed to hotels, is a natural choice for social distancing. They are inherently secluded and allow guests to spread out. Villas erase the need for babysitters or restaurants since a personal chef can be one of the decadent perks of villa life.

Finding the right villa can be a labor of love. It needs the optimal balance of indoor and outdoor living and is designed with views in mind. They need to have just the right collection of ‘toys’, whether for age 4 or 40.

Super-luxe amenities may include an infinity pool, a beachfront location, and a built-in sound system. A fully-stocked, complimentary, wine cellar, and a yoga sanctuary. These are all in the mix of what makes a villa good, versus absolutely mind-blowing.

These days, understated luxury is all the more sought after. As opposed to extravagant, over-the-top, opulence. The biggest compliment for a villa is that it is so tranquil and so thoughtfully laid out that no one ever wants to leave it.

What follows are my top five villas around the globe. Get ready to pull the trigger.

Best Villa Getaway #5

One-Bedroom Pool Villa at The Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Marrakech, Morocco

Villa Vibe: Modern-riad oasis

The Moroccan property of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel is a short drive from the famous Medina of Marrakech. Yet, it feels like another world. It has over 20 hectares of jasmine patches, olive trees, and 100,000 fragrant roses. The hotel’s 54 private villas dot the property in a scenic serpentine route. Reflecting pools and majestic, wavering palms abound.

Why I like the villas at the Mandarin Oriental:

The austere, one-bedroom pool villa has a rose-covered entry and an oversized, wooden door that opens into a private courtyard.

A long, dramatic, pool welcomes guests like a red carpet to the Oscars. At its far end, the pool morphs into a sheltered hot tub. It nestles squarely against the sliding glass doors of the master suite.

Each room opens up to the central courtyard, reinforcing the blurry edges of indoor and outdoor living. Contemporary Moroccan decor is captured in subtle ways. Soft Berber rugs, elaborate, stone artwork, and even the design details of lampshades.

A hammam-inspired shower is an Arabic bathing ritual used for cleansing. It’s an added luxurious feature of the villa. Yet, it posed yet another distraction from exploring the mesmerizing city of Marrakech.

USP (Unique Selling Point): An elongated, horizontal fire pit cuts into the courtyard wall. An outdoor kitchen and bar, with plush outdoor sofas, make the inside of the villa nearly redundant. It’s just this combination of open-plan architecture overlaid with total seclusion, that makes this hotel villa so enchanting.

Best Villa Getaway #4

The Three-Bedroom Beach Residence at Sugar Beach, St Lucia

Villa Vibe: Colonial charm, perfected

The majestic, towering Pitons are a duo of volcanic spires and the visual centerpiece of the island of St Lucia. They stand at 2,618ft and 2,438ft respectively. The Pitons are the geological defining feature of this mountainous paradise in the Windward Islands.

Viceroy Sugar Beach, once a thriving 18th-century sugar plantation, won the Caribbean lottery on location. It’s one of only two resorts that rest between the Pitons, and the only one that is beachfront. They’ve been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. At any given time of day, one Piton is lit to perfection, while the other lies in dramatic shadow.

Both Pitons are magnificent around the clock. In fact, they are so highly regarded, that they are proudly displayed on the national flag, as well as the name of the local beer. Two high honors, indeed.

Why I like the beach residences at Sugar Beach:

Our plantation-inspired, three-bedroom beach residence has uninterrupted 360 views of the sea. It also sits steps from the beach. Standing on the expansive pool deck, I look to my left—Gros Piton. I look to my right—Petit Piton. Straight ahead are crystal clear cerulean waters. Each direction I face is more inspiring than the next.

Every room has large glass-paned windows that face the ocean. Sliding glass doors reinforce the melding of indoor and outdoor life. From the lantern-lit deck, we watch the chartered catamarans and sailboats slowly drift in and out of the harbor. An unvarnished portrait of the seascape is constantly re-imagined before our eyes.

Four-poster beds have romantic, voile draping that evoked a dream-like sanctuary. White-on-white, silky Egyptian cotton linens, contrast with wooden, colonial touches. Natural jute weaves and rattan adds to the breezy vibe of the residence.

A long, infinity pool parallels the sea, hovering just high enough above it so that it feels as if we are swimming laps alongside the horizon. The connecting hot tub makes for the most secluded sundowner spot on the island.

USP: Beach residences come with a personal butler to attend to all needs that may arise during the stay. Guests are given a cell phone with their direct dial. Butlers can organize excursions, massage appointments, and food and beverage stocked upon arrival.

Best Villa Getaway #3

Casa Majani, Punta Mita, Mexico

Villa Vibe: The ultimate in understated luxury

Punta Mita is an exclusive resort community in Nayarit, Mexico. It has long been associated with understated, beachfront beauty. It’s also the home to both St. Regis and the Four Seasons resorts. Set upon 1500 swoon-worthy acres, and surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on three sides, the lure of Punta Mita is palpable.

There is no shortage of heart-stopping villas to be found on this gently manicured private peninsula in the Pacific Ocean. However, the serene undercurrent of Villa Casa Majani mimics the peninsula itself, with water as its defining feature.

Why I like Casa Majani:

Casa Majani boasts six seductive bedrooms, interconnected via garden-filled pathways, Manzanillo trees, and meandering reflecting pools.

Photo Credit: Casa Majani

Suite Keili is one of two master suites and is best described as a ‘bedroom island.’ The infinity pools that surround the suite look on towards the ocean. They mirror the prismatic colors of the Mexican sky.

Photo Credit: Casa Majani

The architectural centerpiece of the villa is the enormous thatched-roofed grand palapa loft. Infinitely breezy, it plays many roles. Pre-dinner cocktail lounge, shady reading nook, or whale-watching perch.

The natural hues and wooden accents are in line with a modern Mexican aesthetic. Touches of bright, traditional colors like persimmon, fuchsia, and lime green, accent the decor artfully.

On our visit, it takes all of one morning for the seasoned staff to remember each of our names, as well as our caffeinated vices. Mini tacos with fresh guacamole appear poolside before anyone’s stomach had the chance to rumble.

Hand-crafted cocktails magically arrive at the first signs of dusk. A dedicated concierge helped facilitate our needs, whether organizing an on-site masseuse, or a group tequila tasting.

Photo Credit: Casa Majani

USP: Casa Majani is a destination unto itself. But should guests decide to venture off-property, access to the Four Seasons and St Regis resorts is included. Given that Casa Majani has its own yoga studio and gym, one should choose excursions wisely.

Best Villa Getaway #2

Villa Laura, Cortona, Italy

Villa Vibe: Under the Tuscan sun, literally

A sweeping property just outside of the walled Italian village of Cortona is the famed setting of the film, Under the Tuscan Sun. Guests of Villa Laura, have an opportunity to create their own Tuscan memories in this restored 17th-century villa.

Why I like Villa Laura:

The movie and book are based on Frances Mayes’ experience at Bramasole, which means ‘to yearn for the sun.’ It’s something you may never do, as the property fully absorbs every ray of sunlight, whether indoors, or out. Three unique buildings nestle within the property and manicured gardens. The Villa, the Farmhouse, and the Limonaia. There are ten ensuite guest rooms between them.

The buildings date back to 600AD, and part of the charm of Villa Laura is the history that is sensed as you spend time exploring the grounds. The washed stucco villa, with sage green-painted shutters, changes color from pale yellow to rich gold over the course of the day. Light shifts and unfolds. The stone-walled farmhouse has an outdoor dining area that overlooks miles of the verdant Italian countryside.

USP: Every outdoor path presents one stunning photo opportunity after another. A grand pool, a hot tub, and an organic vegetable garden complete the scene.

Indoors, guests will find a pool table, games room, and stocked wine cellar. The nearby village of Cortona might be calling, but it will undoubtedly be difficult to answer.

Best Villa Getaway #1

Villa Ixfalia, St Barths

Villa Vibe: Swanky French Riviera

The overgrown jungle-like entrance of St Barth’s Villa Ixfalia is deceptive. Perhaps, this is intentional—the drama of a velvet curtain opening at showtime. A wooden planked path leads guests through a wide threshold and into a vast, open-air living space.

Why I like Villa Ixfalia:

Over twenty rattan lampshades dangle above in varying shapes, sizes, and heights. Yet, as mesmerizing as they may be, chances are you won’t notice them. Your eyes will be instinctively drawn ahead.

Cue the panorama. The only thing that lies between you and the Caribbean Sea is a glacial blue infinity pool. Perched several hundred feet in the air, you may feel you are swimming in the sky. Vistas overlooks the beaches of this swanky European-influenced island.

Rooms are designed in soft earth tones, and with natural textiles, all sea-facing. Some have private outdoor showers, and all have flat-screen Apple TVs and found objects. Bleached animal skulls, driftwood sculptures, and gigantic white shells add to the nature-inspired villa vibe.

The master bedroom’s king-sized bed faces floor-to-ceiling glass doors that open to the pool. One feels miles above the world, both literally and figuratively. A welcomed distance from reality.

USP: The infinity pool and patio have tiers of large, double-wide sun loungers and captivating views of Eden Rock Resort. Guests will find themselves in a constant conundrum—wanting to explore the island but never wanting to leave the villa. With a dedicated butler and French chef on hand, there is virtually no need.

Get villa-inspired

Many of these villas fall firmly in the ‘understated luxury’ category. But there are countless iterations of this vacation to suit different budgets and geographic restraints.

There are local Airbnbs, far-flung Airbnb Luxe destinations, intimate cabin stays glamping or mountain treehouses. Then, of course, there are luxury hotels that offer private villas and residences. All you need is a bit of inspiration and creativity. A villa vacation can’t come soon enough.

Early Access to what’s hot

Click here. Be the first to know when I find a new place to get lost!

October 27, 2020
An hour’s drive and a thousand miles away from Marrakech

Travel research makes me happy, and I can spend hours finding ‘the best’ of anything. Sometimes though, my husband just nails it, and discovers the best places to stay, or eat. In the case of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, he won, finding the hidden, beautiful gem, Kasbah bab Ourika, just outside of Marrakech.

Kasbah Bab Ourika, Atlas Mountains, Morocco /

Thirty minutes into the hour-long journey to Ourika from Marrakech, the road narrowed to a single lane, and became dark red packed earth. We slowed to about 5 mph and ambled past donkeys carrying bushels of barley, women with terra cotta tagines balanced gracefully on their heads, and the village elder, a 106 year-old man, staring absentmindedly into space. Welcome to village life around Ourika, nestled gently in the High Atlas Mountains.

Kasbah Bab Ourika is a unique rustic oasis. The rooms are classic Berber, but with a twist. Wool rugs, and lovely woven tapestries as you’d expect, but then they add in a stack of vintage radios, black and white 12-inch TVs, a phonograph player, and the occasional antique steamer trunk. And yes, somehow this mismatched decor works together beautifully. Hidden alcoves for playing cards and board games, drinking the ever-present mint tea, or reading. Fireplaces in the common rooms add to the cozy and intimate ambience. Think Berber shabby chic.

Rooms are minimal, yet thoughtfully-appointed, warm and sun-drenched. A daybed nook complete with novels and a reading lamp were especially inviting. We were welcomed to our room with rose petals flung all about, a deep sunken bathtub revealing a mountain panorama, and a garden roof top that boasted both sunrise and sunset views! At any moment, the attentive staff is happy to light the fire in your room, to warm up the cool nights.

Sweeping views

But for all of the beauty that the kasbah has within it’s dusty orange earthen walls, it is equally, if not more about what is outside. The snow-capped mountain peaks, the flower gardens and olive groves, the mature fig trees that dot the property along with essence of lemon and orange trees. The quintessential reds and oranges of the kasbah juxtaposed beautifully against the cerulean blue sky. The air is crisp and clean, and you can hear the water flowing from the mountain into the gushing river nearby (which can oddly sound like traffic to those familiar with city life).

Clouds roll through, creating magical textured layers of blues and lavenders, while a sharp mountain silhouette completes the picture. Rosemary hedges surround the property and no matter where you are you can catch a telltale wisp of the herb. Desert cacti, evergreens and tropical palms somehow live in harmony here, naturally irrigated by the mountain run-off. Lush, rich, verdant and alive… the vegetable and herb gardens are the source of the decadent meals we came to love each day. Three course lunches and dinners, with just the perfect amount of variety, so much so, that we never tired of the Moroccan cuisine in our five night stay. Highlights, aside from the classic tagines, were lamb chops with roasted potatoes, slow-cooked chicken in herbs, homemade soups, and the many enticing salads that accompanied each meal. We drank Moroccan wine, which complimented the flavors of the tagines to perfection!

Dining took place in different areas around the property. Lunches under a bamboo-thatched rooftop on the patio facing the mountains and valleys, candlelit dinners in the inner courtyard, and places for cocktails in so many unique little spots that we often couldn’t choose. Kasbah Bab Ourika employs 60 villagers from the surrounding villages, which means 60 local families have steady income outside of farming. The staff is friendly and courteous, there to cater to your every need: mint tea in the library, a bottle of rosé on your terrace, or to light the fireplace in your room each night before you return from dinner. A prehistoric glow from the tiled fireplace casting an ethereal warmth on the earth-toned walls. Our hiking guides were also from the Berber villages, and were gentle and mindful, allowing us to get lost in our thoughts, and yet giving us enough local information as we wandered.

At one point we hiked through a steep mountain village, passing it’s ubiquitous tall, rectangular mosque, and came upon a dramatic vista. I saw five village elders in their dark woolen robes, cowls draped over their heads. They were ratcheted one by one up a gentle slope with their backs to me, admiring the sweeping mountain peaks in front of them. The unending layered hues of green and blues in all their majesty, a mystical cloud of fog hovering below the peaks, it was a photo worthy of National Geographic, I was convinced! But, as I was well aware, it is considered rude to take photos of the Berbers without permission, and so with a sigh of defeat slowly lowered my camera in respect, and took a mental photo instead.

Hiking to a Berber Village

On one morning hike, we trekked two or three hours into the mountains, and were welcomed by a village family. No roads to be found, only donkey tracks and the occasional moped. They taught us the ceremonial process of making Berber mint tea, which you can find in every incarnation throughout the country. The technique involved pouring and re-pouring, first of green teas leaves to coat the tea pot, then hot water, then the mint leaves themselves, then the steeping, straining and adding of sugar. Lastly, was the theatrical way the tea is poured, which was from much higher above the glass cup then is necessary, but adds such drama! The result? Well suffice it to say, it put Tazo to shame.

We were then served homemade breads along with freshly churned butter and pressed olive oil from the trees surrounding the village. The homes looked in a half-state of completion with up to six or more members of the family under the one roof, along with their livestock. It was a mystical experience, especially made so by the low-lying clouds that added to the striking backdrop. We felt like we were happily hidden away in the middle of nowhere.

We had unseasonably cool weather for April, which made the hiking easier, yet we were still able to spend a few days lazing by the pool in an intimate setting among the wildflowers, vivd red poppies and olive groves. Since the only place you could capture any wi-fi was a twenty square foot area in the kasbah courtyard, everywhere else you felt completely disconnected from the outside world, which was heavenly. The courtyard became a hive of social activity for the guests, all trying to get their internet fix, post a pic, or send a text.

The Berber Museum

As difficult as it was to leave, we did manage a few other excursions from the kasbah grounds. While none of us had much of a desire to see the Berber Museum, it turned out to be a true highlight. Set in a small village, and having once been a traditional Berber home, our guide was charismatic and charming, and taught us much about Berber life in under an hour (which is my bandwidth for any museum). The stories of the tapestries being particularly fascinating, as the patterns woven determined if the rug was for a man, women, pregnant woman, or a even a wedding gift. The tapestries telling the stories of the villagers.

Paradis du safran, a hidden gem

We then went to Paradis du Safran, a hidden gem well off the main roads of Ourika, which was conceived and designed in 2012 by an entrepreneurial Swiss woman named Christine Ferrari. From nothing, she built the most awe-inspiring and verdant oasis. Paths of herbs, fruit trees, vivid gardens with flowers of every species, donkeys that look healthy (in contrast to nearly every other donkey we saw in Morocco), and even a resident peacock who kindly opened up it’s feathers to full plume as if on command. Ms. Ferrari served us rose petal water followed later by thyme tea as we sat and took in the expansive, colorful grounds.

She has uniquely created a textural path, meant to be walked through barefoot. Stepping on pinecones, straw, ropes and twigs, among other things, was a sensory obstacle course for your feet. Afterwards, you can soak in a sequence of herbal foot baths that re-invigorates your senses, before dining at her al fresco restaurant or perusing her small yet well-curated boutique. It is a blissful, natural wonderland she has built, and while it seemed off the beaten path, she has a devoted following as we could see from the pinned map of the world she has at her entry. People have traveled from all ends of the earth to visit. And it is not surprising why, as it is just about as close to garden perfection as you can get, set magically against the snow-capped Atlas Mountains.

Cocktails and sunsets

The famous African sunsets did not let us down, and were an illustrious show to be seen nightly. We would spend an hour or so watching the sun make it’s fiery descent, each night more spectacular than the last. Each time saying that it couldn’t get any better and yet, somehow it did. And while the sun went down, watching how the mottled clay facets of the kasbah walls changed with each passing minute.

Some sunsets looked dusty rose, while the others took on a much darker hue depending on where the light was coming from. The packed earth on the mountains taking an almost merlot to deep purple palette, the cocoa colored latticework of the windows adding to the contrast. Then the icy blues and layers of the Atlas mountains…. it looked like my daughter’s latest eyeshadow palette, all the colors of the terra cotta mixing and blending together at once. On one particular sunset, a layer of clouds formed and we oooh-ed and ahhh-ed as we saw the sun disappear and then re-appear from below it, forming a magical golden lining.

We woke before sunrise on our final morning to catch an early flight. Dark at first, the full moon still casting an ethereal glow. Then the sun edged out the moon, it’s rays gently hitting the tips of the snow caps in all shades of pink. We slowly tumbled down the mountain road, careful not to hit any farmers, their donkeys in tow, on their way to the morning market. Past the vegetable sellers opening their stalls, the women laying out their wares, and groups of men crouching at the pop-up roadside stalls having breakfast. As we drove, a final poetic slice of life in Morocco: a group of twenty or more brown woolen cloaked sheep herders, each with their prize sheep at their feet. A tornado of activity as the trading began to unfold, furious waving and posturing, sheep wrangling, baaa-ing, and milling about. Watching the scene grow distant as I looked out the rear window, I smiled. Over three thousand miles away from my home, and I was already trying to figure out a way to come back.

Five Reasons to get lost:

• Hiking to a remote Berber village and being welcomed like family.
• Meandering though the omnipresent arches of the kasbah, and finding a nook to enjoy nightly cocktails.
• Indulging in a glass of mint tea with the locals.
• Spontaneously coming upon a sheepherder and his flock in the mountains.
• Catching a glimpse of market life at 6am on Mondays.

Bonus:

Spend a few nights in colorful Marrakech. The Mandarin Oriental was the perfect distance from the hustle and bustle, a true oasis in the city.

May 17, 2018

Your cart (items: 0)

Products in cart
Product	Details	Total
	Available on backorder Previous price: Discounted price:	Save