Tag: Restaurant

  • On Being Imperfecto, The DC Restaurant Review

    On Being Imperfecto, The DC Restaurant Review

    Imperfecto fired up an already hot trending restaurant scene in Washington DC. Today, Chef Enrique Limardo has three fabulous DC restaurants to rule over in his crisp, chef’s whites. What makes Imperfecto so darn near perfect? It’s all in the details.


    DC is a culinary wasteland. 

    This was my first thought when we moved to DC from Tokyo in 2010. It isn’t because I’d spent nearly four years in the world’s foodie capital (with 202 Michelin stars, the most of any city, I dare you to disagree). It isn’t because I’d lived in NYC and eaten my way through every ethnic culture known to mankind. And, it isn’t because I’m a food snob.

    It’s because at our first DC restaurant experience (and I concede that choosing Japanese was a bad opening move) I saw a line cook squeeze wasabi onto a sliver of ahi tuna from a plastic ketchup container. If you don’t recognize the issue here, please click that little red circle on the top left of your screen. 

    Maybe I am a food snob.

    overhead DC

    DC’s culinary landscape has shifted dramatically since then. At one time, Washington DC restaurants were considered stuffy, stale, and lacking in identity. The change over the last decade has been gradual, yet on a clear upward trajectory. Restaurant standouts like Pineapple and Pearls, Rose’s Luxury, and Komi influenced the scene early on. Michelin didn’t even deem DC worthy of its own guide until 2016. 

    That’s about when DC woke up and started to get cooking. 

    For us, you could say it was perfect timing. Or, depending upon how you see it—ever so slightly imperfect.

    Imperfecto food

    Introducing Imperfecto

    Imperfecto isn’t even a speck on the Epicurean map when we unpack our worldly possessions in the nation’s capital. Yet, I’d be surprised if the seeds of Chef Enrique Limardo’s restaurant venture weren’t already planted.

    Chef Enrique Limardo made his DC restaurant debut with Seven Reasons in 2019 after being the Executive Chef at the highly-acclaimed Alma Cocina Latina, in Baltimore. Before then, he honed his creative talents in Spain and in Venezuela—his home country. Along the way, Chef Limardo’s intent on globalizing the kitchen gained traction and attention. He lovingly fuses flavors and ingredients from the Mediterranean to the Amazon.

    Imperfecto amuse bouche

    DC’s West End neighborhood is pretty far from the Amazon. So named because it sits at the westernmost end of DC’s original L’Enfant Urban Plan, West End is now a virtual hotbed of luxury hotels and restaurants. This may be due, in part, to the long ago initiative “to bring life to a declining part of the city.” A successful initiative, indeed.

    In 2021, DC’s West End became known for Imperfecto. Its Michelin-star rating makes Imperfecto a sparkling addition to its bevy of upscale restaurants.


    Click here to get my Free Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet


    Interior of Imperfecto

    Thinking Big, At Imperfecto

    How can a large open-plan dining space with ultra-high ceilings convey both an air of intimacy and extreme conviviality? It’s a bold design risk—as many restaurants choose to carve up space with cleverly executed drop ceilings, or floating walls, in order to create more privacy. Imperfecto embraces its cavernous space with a zestiness that rivals its shishito purée.

    The Athens and Stockholm-based design firm OOAK can take a deep bow. By choosing contrasting elements (think brass and marble combined with wood and terracotta) and Mediterranean-influenced colors, the team at OOAK creates an eye-popping space that somehow doesn’t distract from the reason you’re there in the first place.

    Dangling light fixtures and massive asymmetrical beams offset the dining room’s space. Three concrete beams emerge from the floor like colossal stalks of bamboo. The rich, nautical blue-painted ceiling creates a reverse anchor to the room while simultaneously paying homage to the colors of the Mediterranean.

    Imperfecto’s risk pays off. Although far from quiet, the layout is thoughtfully imagined. I can easily hear every word my husband says (whether I want to or not). I hear ambient laughter, glasses clinking, and the festive popping of corks—a sublime soundtrack to any fine dining experience.


    How To Spend 12 Hours in Georgetown (Like A Local)—Click Here


    Exterior of Imperfecto

    Raising the Bar, at Imperfecto

    I look through an enormous glass wall into the lively dining room of Imperfecto. It’s muted from where I stand on the sidewalk outside. I open the door and hear the welcoming buzz and hum of a restaurant at its nightly peak. I’m enchanted.

    A one-of-a-kind burl wood check-in stand is both sculptural and functional. From there, we turn right and see two enormous arches with rock-quarry-inspired murals looming above the bar. The underlit array of liquor bottles could be considered an interactive art installation. Art, artsy, and more museum-worthy details abound. Comfy crimson bar stools are ready and waiting.

    Bartender

    The bar is well-tended, with servers who love their craft and prove it with every pour. As a graphic designer in my past life, I became obsessed with the genius use of stemware icons on the cocktail list. I love being able to choose my poison based on the glass shape. I’m not alone. The drinks are also works of art, seasonal, and a delight to imbibe.

    Imperfecto drink menu

    Driven partly by the beautifully shaped coupe, I choose the Imperfecto Club. Grey Goose vodka with limoncello, a splash of fresh pineapple juice, and vanilla syrup. My husband gets the Double ‘O’ Seven, channeling his inner James Bond. If there’s ever a place in DC to feel like an international man of mystery, Imperfecto is that place.

    We give up our cushy barstools somewhat reluctantly—yet eager to continue the Imperfecto experience.


    Click here to get my Free Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet


    What’s in a name?

    Naming a restaurant Imperfecto is a brilliant way to offset any criticism. Yet, I am hard-pressed to find much to complain about. I visited Imperfecto three times in the past year and two out of those three times the service was superb. The other time was just shy of superb.

    We glide to our table. Along the way, we pass a wall of terracotta-designed ‘M’s that discreetly mimic the Imperfecto logo. Yet another well-executed design element in a well-executed space. Further along, an open carving station is displayed like a culinary side show—a clear incentive to order whatever the chef is grilling. 

    Imperfecto dining room

    Chef Limardo changes the menu often, making it all too easy to return. We dine on inventive creations like Moussaka Cigars. Light, flaky, phyllo dough filled with smoked eggplant, ground lamb, pine nuts, and creamy goat/manchego cheese. Each ingredient is well-defined yet melds together seamlessly.

    Never one to pass up on a subterranean fungus, I opt for the Truffle Tagiolini as my main. Homemade pasta with a sweet corn cream sauce topped with chopped asparagus, Pecorino cheese, and of course, a pile of shaved truffles.

    For those who like to be told what to eat, and in what order, the Chef’s Tasting Menu is the way to dine at Imperfecto. Prepare to be dazzled by each artfully plated course, ever-changing platters, and serving pieces. Prepare to test your social media restraint. 


    How To Spend 12 Hours in Georgetown (Like A Local)—Click Here


    Exterior of Imperfecto

    There’s no such thing as Imperfect

    DC is no longer a culinary wasteland. Washington DC is riding a rising tide of innovative and creative cuisine. Chef Enrique Limardo has much to do with it. With three restaurants, including the recently opened Joy, by Seven Reasons, there is much for foodies in DC to celebrate.

    Thank you, Chef Limardo, for pushing the epicurean boundaries in our ‘stuffy’ city. Thank you for identifying a spot to showcase your talents in ‘a place with no identity.’ I know you’d never squeeze wasabi from a plastic ketchup bottle—as you seem to care as much about the pungent Japanese root as you do an earthy truffle or a crispy plantain.

    Your attention to detail at Imperfecto is, well, kind of perfect.

    I hope you continue to prove the DC bashers wrong and the Michelin gods right. As long as you keep evolving the menu and using those cute little stemware icons, I won’t stop visiting.

    So tell me, Chef, did I get the details correct? If not, please let me know. 

    And just remember, no one’s perfect.


    Click here to get my Free Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet


  • Hiša Franko is the 21st best restaurant in the world

    Hiša Franko is the 21st best restaurant in the world

    Hiša Franko is #21 on San Pellegrino’s ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list. Hiša Franko’s chef is ranked #7 on the ‘Best Chef Awards’ list and has two coveted Michelin stars. Detect a pattern? Hiša Franko is climbing culinary ladders at breakneck speed. 

    Chef Roš has everything to do with it.


    SATW logo
    Honorable Mention: Culinary Travel

    Hiša Franko

    Perhaps you envision the world’s 21st-best restaurant in a cosmopolitan city like New York, with an inaudible hum coming from behind an unmarked door on West 9th Street. Or, in a posh Mayfair hotel, where London suit and ties gather to discuss private equity amid a buzz of banking activity. Where numbers and figures float around the room like musical notes.

    logo

    Maybe you assume Chef Roš graduated with honors from the Culinary Institute of America or L’Ecole. Or, that Roš was taught to cook by a nurturing grandmother and spent hours in the kitchen recreating family recipes, eventually trading a stained apron for crisp chef’s whites.

    You’d be wrong on all fronts. 

    Exterior of farmhouse

    Hiša Franko’s Lucky #21

    The 21st best restaurant in the world, Hiša Franko, is not in a sleepless city or a swanky hotel. It isn’t on a quaint American main street or hidden in a European city’s back alley. It’s not anywhere you’d ever imagine. Unless you imagine it’s on a rural, tree-lined road in Slovenia.

    Then, you’d be right.

    You’d also be off-base about Chef Roš, who studied international science and was destined to become a diplomat. Or that Chef Roš played competitive sports and rarely stepped foot in a kitchen other than to eat. 

    Would you believe that Chef Roš entered Hiša Franko’s kitchen and had to start from scratch? Chef Roš, who is now a culinary powerhouse, has earned two Michelin stars and is a force to be reckoned with. Don’t believe me?

    Just ask her husband.

    Have passport, will travel

    I travel for food the way others travel for a music festival, Broadway show, or museum exhibit. An extraordinary dining experience invigorates my senses in the same ways. A multi-dimensional artistic endeavor in its own right. When done well, for instance, a meal can be an Oscar-winning performance.

    This summer, I drove four hours for lunch. I crossed an international border and through multiple microclimates with my passport and rapid antigen test results in tow. Then, I drove four hours back.

    Was it worth it?

    Glass and flowers

    Chef’s Table, Hiša Franko

    It’s June 2016. My husband and I are watching one of our favorite guilty pleasures, the culinary docu-series Chef’s Table. Chef’s Table is to food what the BBC’s Planet Earth is to nature (minus David Attenborough’s distinguished narration). 

    The series documents chefs in far-flung destinations and overlays interviews with dramatic music to reel the viewer in. I’m that fish who gets hooked every time.

    Who’s the Chef?

    Tonight’s episode features Chef Ana Roš, a chef I’d never heard of. This is exactly the point of the show—to introduce cutting-edge culinary talent to food-obsessed people like me.

    Chef’s Table serves up unusual food adventures in destinations around the world. It delivers them to our living rooms to be enjoyed alongside our UberEats and DoorDash orders.

    Food is presented much like a docent introduces a Manet at the Met. A well-thought-out but concise narration of the artist and painting. Using all the right descriptors to whet the appetite, create intrigue, and allow for personal interpretation. 

    My husband lights a fire, and we settle in. Ready to travel to Hiša Franko from the comfort of our well-worn leather couch? Beside us, the dogs are snoring. ‘Where are we going tonight?’ I wonder as I pull a cozy Sferra blanket over my legs. 

    Slovenia.

    Blue sky

    Slovenia?

    Do they mean Slovakia? Sardinia? Or, Armenia? Where is Slovenia? We are less than two minutes into the show. I press pause to find an Atlas. My husband sighs. 

    ‘Slovenia is in Eastern Europe, above Croatia, below Austria. Next to Italy and Hungary’, I proudly relay to Daniel. ‘Some might say north, south, east, and west,’ he replies with undiluted sarcasm. I ignore him. Geography lesson complete. I press play.

    The episode chronicles Ana’s unlikely journey from a woman destined to become a diplomat in Brussels, who instead inherits a local inn and restaurant. With no culinary training, she turns it into one of the best restaurants in the world and inadvertently puts Slovenia on the culinary map.

    Hisa Franko signage

    Franko’s house

    Ana Roš and Valter Kramar took over his family’s inn and restaurant, located deep in Slovenia’s Soča Valley, in 2000. It had been owned by the Kramars since 1970. Franko is Valter’s father. Hiša means house. Franko’s House.

    The inn and restaurant are not only Ana and Valter’s business; they are also their family home. With Ana in the kitchen as the chef, Valter was able to realize his lifelong dream of creating a cheese and wine cellar. 

    Valter ages his ‘Tolminic’ cheese for years and stocks his cellar with natural Slovenian vintages. His appreciation for crazy and unusual wines adds yet another dimension to the dining experience at Hiša Franko. Ana and Valter are as naturally paired as their food and wine.


    Find out about Hisa Franko’s availability and even more glowing reviews here!


    Hisa Franko dish

    Serendipity

    Years after watching Hiša Franko’s episode of Chef’s Table, we plan a family trip to Istria, Croatia. My trusted atlas is again put to good use. I quiz Daniel, ‘Did you know that the Istrian peninsula borders Slovenia?’ A slightly raised eyebrow leads me to believe I just may have sparked an idea. 

    Serendipitously, we discover our Istrian villa is within driving distance of Hiša Franko. That is if you consider 4 hours driving distance. I hop on the computer and make a reservation.

    With far fewer destination diners to compete with, I secured a reservation for our date. But truth be told, Slovenia isn’t simple to get to even when there isn’t a worldwide pandemic. And, even if you are already in the country below it. Correction, south of it.

    I didn’t factor in the border crossing. Or the need for a 48-hour advance negative COVID test to cross it. More importantly, there is the minor issue of transportation. Details to be figured out at later date (aka procrastination).

    Mountain view

    What kind of foodie are you?

    There are two kinds of foodies. Those who would drive 4 hours for lunch, and everyone else. If the thought of driving 300 miles round-trip for a meal seems reasonable to you, then you are my people.

    At 8am, we leave our villa. Our minivan driver is a Croatian woman named Marta. She tells us about a lesser-known border crossing into Slovakia, I mean, Slovenia. This is August in Europe, and border traffic is a killer. Passport in hand, the excursion feels like a covert mission.

    En route to Hiša Franko, we pass hamlets puddled at the base of towering mountains. It’s a dreary morning, and fog hangs low in the air, cutting the mountains in half. This only adds to the mystique of the journey. However, it creates drama, especially as we drive through dense forests filled with Croatia’s famous truffles. My excitement is as palpable as the earthy, musky scent in the air.

    Border patrol

    At 915am, we pull up to a sleepy border patrol crossing cut into the hills. Why do I feel like I’m doing something illegal? This is just lunch, after all, not the finalé of The Sound of Music.

    Menacing clouds press up against the Slovenia landscape in the distance. My hand shaking slightly, I hold up my phone to show the border police photographic evidence of our negative test results. I accidentally swipe left, and the faces of my nieces fill the screen. Whoops. 

    The policeman grunts a guttural, ‘cute’ at their insta-worthy faces before I quickly swipe back to the results. The rain starts to gain momentum. He waves us through. We are in Slovenia. 3 hours to go.

    Blue sky

    Colors of Slovenia

    The sun cuts in and out, revealing towering mountains with sheer rock face walls. Thick clouds that pool heavily in the valleys are just beginning to lift. The scene auto-fills with gem-like tones. Lapis lazuli, malachite, and topaz eke through.

    In the final stretch to Hiša Franko, we notice golden flax-rolled hay bales, an emerald green river (no doubt filled with trout), and lush trees. The colors, after hours of heavy rain, are unreal.

    windows

    At Hiša Franko, It’s all in the details

    It’s 1145am. When we arrive at Hiša Franko, the sky is fully transformed. The ominous weather has moved on. Or, maybe it never reached this magical enclave in the Soča Valley. It hardly matters now. The blue sky is a gift after hours of murky fog and narrow, winding roads.

    The Hiša Franko farmhouse is located just beyond the small settlement of Kobarid, (est. population: 1060, as of 2016). Its exterior echoes Benjamin Moore’s ‘Dark Salmon’ paint chip.

    Flowers the colors of ripe red fruits spill out from tall shuttered windows. Originally built in the 1860s, it’s a small peach of a building set in front of a big apple-green mountain. 

    Common areas

    The common spaces at the inn are designed by someone with a true eye for art and photography. I intend to seek that person out, but can’t help thinking it’s none other than Ana and Valter. That their eye for food and wine naturally extends to every other type of design comes as no surprise.

    Inside Hiša Franko’s dining room, the warm hues continue. Tomato red walls act as a rich contrast to white linen. A long, central, wooden table is the hub for wine bottles, glasses, and barware. Valter’s domain.

    Dining room

    Abstract art is framed along the main wall of the intimate space. It’s aligned at the baseline, which is atypical. As is the decanter, which spirals upwards like a snake being charmed. I am in love with the decanter. I hope my husband reads this before Christmas.

    Hovering disk-shaped light fixtures lower the ceiling and add even more intimacy. It’s subtle details like these that make me appreciate all that has gone into making Ana’s restaurant such a treasured place.

    Decanter

    23 and me 

    How does one prepare for a 23-course lunch? With healthy trepidation and an empty stomach. We are no strangers to chef-led dining experiences, as it’s the surprises that make them all the more worthwhile. 

    We are a group of six, including my 17-year-old daughter. Hiša Franko is one of her first true multi-course, experimental culinary adventures. I am silently proud when she opts to try everything despite any preconceived notions of what is being served.

    This is no simple undertaking, as many ingredients are unlike anything we have seen, eaten, or even heard of before.

    I’m prepared for the variety of locally inspired ingredients. The hearty foods that have kept Slovenians fed for generations: notably, lamb, pork, and trout. I’m less prepared to see bear paw on the menu. Immediately, I assumed that bear paw is the name of a wild mushroom, like Lion’s Mane or Hen of the Woods.

    menu

    Leave it to my curious daughter to point to the menu and ask, “Is this really bear paw?’. ‘Indeed it is!’ comes the unexpected reply. 

    Our server goes on to explain that a certain number of brown bears are culled each year due to the increase in population and the risks they pose to local villagers. 

    Was I ready to try it? Ummmm, sort of?

    Bear paw dumplings

    The meat of the bear paw is supposedly very tender, on par with slow-cooked beef. Our bear paw is minced and nestled into a beautiful dumpling. The dumpling is surrounded by a forest consommé and topped with green leaves. 

    I savor each bite, letting the earthy broth linger on my tastebuds. It’s worth the trip for this course alone. 

    Yet, there are 22 more to go.

    Bear Paw
    Chestnut dumpling filled with bear paw, forest consommé

    Hiša Franko: A story of reincarnation

    Our menu is titled, ‘Reincarnation.’ It’s particularly fitting, as Ana effortlessly brings new life to humble ingredients. Cauliflower is accompanied by black truffle, egg, milk skin, and buttermilk powder. Trout is cured with fig leaves, barley water, cucumber, and elderflower.

    Valter’s cheeses are served with local beeswax and nettle gnocchi. Unique combinations of well-known ingredients create layers of new tastes and textures. A culinary story of rebirth.

    Coen beignets
    Corn beignet, fermented cottage cheese, smoked trout roe, wild chives

    My favorite course at Hiša Franko is one that I had prematurely decided would be my least. Two warm corn beignets are plated on a thick slab of a tree trunk. Inside is a mixture of fermented cottage cheese, smoked trout roe, and wild chives. Heaven in a bite. Always trust the chef. 

    Each course is one artistic expression of Ana’s homeland after another. I photograph discreetly to have visual proof of a meal that is almost too hard to describe.

    Charcuterie
    Impression of charcuterie

    Valter’s Cellar

    Hiša Franko’s menu has three ways to pair wine: ’Funky’, ‘Local’, and ‘Juicy’. We choose ‘Local’ as I can’t imagine having the opportunity to try eight different types of Slovenian wine again in the foreseeable future.

    While I’ve never heard of any of the wines being served, each is a natural fit for its course. A 2013 Royal PetNat, a 2005 Stemberger Cherry Oxy, and an intriguing wine called Aci Urbajs Organic Anarchy are examples. If I didn’t say it then, Valter, thank you! Next time, I’m coming back for ‘Funky’.

    Dining room

    Choreographing a meal at Hiša Franko

    Hiša Franko’s dining room is slightly more formal than its farmhouse exterior belies. The servers are dressed in what can best be described as costumes rather than uniforms. Their jackets are adorned with bold patterns of vines and clusters of grapes. The experience is an organic, whimsical, and well-orchestrated performance.

    It’s a ballet of sorts. Touches of theater are dotted throughout the meal. The way our table had three servers present each course in unison, making sure to use eye contact to stay in sync.

    World’s Best

    Ana and Valter’s is just the kind of unlikely, unconventional, and unexpected culinary story that the world needs. A world where a small restaurant, deep in the virtually unknown Julian Alps, is discovered and acknowledged for extraordinary food. Where a chef with no formal training can not only thrive, but reinvent. 

    Ana Roš’s star is still rising, and we are all the lucky beneficiaries of her journey. If we choose to follow.

    Her story is just one reason of many to visit Armenia, I mean Slovenia.


    Find out about Hisa Franko’s availability and even more glowing reviews here!