I love to ski in Stowe. Ummm, let me rephrase that. I love to ski in Stowe when the sky is cloudless, cobalt blue, and the temperature is firmly north of 32 degrees. I love to ski when the slopes are blanketed in fresh powder and crowd-free. Because I despise early wake-ups, I usually don’t hit the slopes until 9am. Then, I only ski until lunch because once I’ve devoured a cheeseburger and fries, I’m as active as a lioness after a kill.
You can probably guess how often I ski.
Undeniably, Stowe is a spectacular ski and snowboard destination. But non-skiers can still enjoy a winter holiday there. I’ve been visiting Stowe since 1984 and can vouch for activities beyond Mt. Mansfield’s double-black diamonds. Back then, I was a reluctant skier, only caring about cute ski outfits and hot ski instructors. The actual skiing part was a low priority.
If you are your family’s most reluctant skier, allow me to acquaint you with Stowe’s other winter charms. There’s more to this Vermont village than meets the eye.
Why Stowe?
Stowe today isn’t much different than it was 40 years ago. Many of the shops, inns, and restaurants that I recall from my teen years remain. Bear Pond Books, Shaw’s General Store, and the Green Mountain Inn are just a few places that have stood the test of time. That Stowe has been able to retain its old-world sensibility is one reason why I come back each year. The fact that ghastly neon signs are banned is another.
But there’s more.
Stowe is a jewel-toned destination nearly year-round. In the summer, emerald green hills layer against sapphire blue skies. In autumn, throngs of leaf-peepers descend upon town for ruby-red, topaz, and gold-tinged foliage.
By winter, those vivid colors disappear, muting the landscape. Yet, even on days when the snow isn’t glistening like diamonds, beauty abounds. Morning fog rolls over the mountains then slowly lifts as the sun ekes through. In the late afternoon, the sun descends behind the peaks and humps—leaving lavender and pink skies in its wake.
Stowe, a brief history
I wasn’t keen on history in high school so I promise to only bore you briefly with it here. Stowe was chartered in 1763 but its first settlers didn’t arrive until 30 years later. Back then, Stowe’s population totaled 316 people and 8,000 grazing sheep. You don’t need to have a degree in statistics to figure out that the farming industry dominated Stowe’s early years. By the mid-nineteenth century, however, Stowe became a popular summer resort destination due to its evergreen mountains and scenic terrain.
In 1921, Stowe hosted its first Winter Carnival, thus putting it squarely on the map as a cold-weather hot spot. Ski tracks were cleared, trails were added, and tourists began to arrive en masse. Before you could say baaaaa, Stowe became the ‘Ski Capital of the East’.
Beyond the slopes in Stowe, Vermont
Despite our little history lesson, don’t be fooled into thinking that skiing monopolizes winter in Stowe. This picturesque village aims to please all. I recently spent 12 days in Stowe—only two of which were with skis attached to my feet.
What did I do for the other ten days? And what could I have done if I weren’t so content sitting fireside with my Johanna Basford coloring books? Read on for inspiration.
Stowe Inspiration: Day One
A beautiful sunrise is one of the few things that gets me out of bed early. And in Stowe, there’s nothing better than watching the sun rise over snow-capped mountains. The landscape is hushed and the bustle of the day is still hours away. In Stowe, mountain views rule. One of the best places to catch them is along the Stowe Rec Path. With over 5 miles of public paths, visitors can walk, run, or bike—all the while admiring Stowe’s natural beauty.
I enter the Rec Path behind Stowe’s famous white-steepled church, but there are access points everywhere. Arched wooden bridges dot the landscape and I lose myself in the rhythmic sounds of the babbling brook. I take comfort in the fact that bears hibernate and photograph the iconic covered bridge that links Main Street to Mountain Road. It starts to flurry, which adds a bit of whimsy to the bucolic scene.
Coffee Break
Eventually, I get cold. This is winter in Stowe, mind you. So I stumble into my new favorite coffee shop for an oat milk cappuccino. Woodland Baking & Coffee is hard to find, tucked in the far corner of the Baggy Knees Shopping Center—a place I now know of thanks to my new Stowe friend, Emily.
The coffee is crazy good—to use a technical coffee term. The baked goods use ingredients that are sourced locally. The crowd is local, too. I hope Emily is still my friend after I’ve told everyone about her secret coffee spot.
Farm Home Obsessed
Stowe has a few lovely interior design shops that make me long for a mountain house to decorate. Farm Home Co.’s showroom is meticulously curated. I covet the hand-woven baskets, especially the ones with a delicate, open, and wavy lip. The piles of patterned vintage kilim pillows, woolen throws, and bleached jute rugs tempt me to give my bedroom a makeover.
Insider Tip: Farm Home Co. has a nearby boutique property that accommodates up to ten people. In the heart of town, and designed to farm home perfection, this 150-year-old white clapboard gem has family reunion written all over it.
And this one time, at Ranch Camp
All this longing and coveting makes me hungry. So I beeline for Ranch Camp, a bike shop/biker hub/lunch spot perched on Mountain Road. Over 12 days, I ate there five times. Four of those times I have The Rock, a warm grain bowl filled with black beans, arugula, corn salsa, sliced avo, brown basmati rice, and topped with perfectly grilled chicken. Four out of five times—yes, it’s that good.
A full morning of non-skiing activities and a hearty grain bowl begs for downtime. I head home and begin a Eugene Levy movie marathon; American Pie, Best in Show, and Schitt’s Creek. Right around the time Jim starts stripping, I fall asleep. (If you have no idea what I’m talking about, head to the couch and start streaming American Pie pronto).
For those who prefer the big screen, the Stowe Cinema 3Plex has been in show business since 1972 and serves guests beer and cocktails at their seats. What better way to see the latest Oscar contenders than with a Stowe Cider or Heady Topper in hand?
Insider Tip: A double India Pale Ale, Heady Topper is the 8th-best beer in the world according to Beer Advocate. It’s brewed in Stowe and Waterbury in tiny quantities, which gives it added allure in the craft beer-drinking world. A great place to try one of these famous brews is at The Alchemist, which also gives brewery tours.
Click here for my Stowe Winter Destination Hot Sheet (with links). It’s free.
Stowe Inspiration: Day Two
I’m a part-time yogi. Occasionally, I’ll humor my husband and join him for a Warrior 3 or Downward Facing Dog. But no matter how many times I practice, I only like the Shavasana part. For real yogis, Peak Yoga is located at The Swimming Hole, a fire engine red building located just off Weeks Hill Road. A non-profit community pool and athletic center, this local fitness treasure is a hub for yogis and athletes alike.
Insider Tip: The Swimming Hole offers day passes. This means anyone can take advantage of the facility while visiting Stowe. Rumor has it Tracy is one of the best yoga instructors in town. Sign up for classes here.
The Hills Are Alive
One of my favorite Stowe activities is snowshoeing. Anyone imagining unwieldy tennis racket-type snow boot attachments, please join me in 2024. Snowshoes today are high-tech, comfortable, and pretty badass. Click here for proof.
A popular spot to snowshoe and cross-country ski is the Trapp Family Lodge. Yes, the von Trapps of The Sound of Music fame. The von Trapps escaped to Stowe after fleeing Austria in the 1940’s. Their vast hilltop property offers sweeping panoramic views of the Worcester Mountains and has snow-covered fields dotted with herds of endearing Scottish Highland cows.
Insider Tip: If you don’t already own a pair of snowshoes or cross-country skis, it’s a snap to rent them on-site at Trapps. Pinnacle Ski & Sports is another place in town that will take care of all rental equipment needs.
On Main
If you have the energy, wander Stowe’s Main Street. In a word, it’s delightful. I inevitably find myself absorbed in the best-seller section of Bear Pond Books. Beyond books, Bear Pond sells games, puzzles, note cards, and unique gifts. One level below Bear Pond is Stowe Mercantile. With old-fashioned candy jars brimming with jawbreakers, sour balls, and rock candy, the Mercantile is a childhood dream come to life.
Insider Tip: While typically more crowded due to its Main Street location, Black Cap Coffee & Bakery whips up fantastic brews and is set in a historic Vermont building across from the church and community center. Women-owned and run, Black Cap also serves breakfast and lunch.
Grab a Plate
Using seasonal ingredients, the menu at Plate rotates often. At 91 Main Street, Plate is a culinary highlight of any trip to Stowe. Its lively and convivial atmosphere keeps diners in place long after the meal has ended. One of my favorite plates at Plate has never left the menu—Vegan ‘Crab Cakes’. Made from hearts of palm and topped with a cashew aioli, it’s one of the restaurant’s most popular starters.
Other temptations at Plate include the Little Leaf Farm Lettuce with grapefruit wedges, maple granola, and avocado and the Grilled Pork Chop with bacon, brussel sprout slaw, and apple butter. Chef Aaron Martin and his wife Jennifer have brilliantly paired a small-town atmosphere with a big-city menu.
Insider Tip: Plate is old-school—dinner reservations are by phone only.
Stowe Inspiration: Day Three
Despite my allergy to early wake-ups, I make exceptions beyond pretty sunrises. Hiking is an activity I enjoy year-round. In Stowe, there are trails to accommodate every fitness level. The Notch is one of the most user-friendly—a 3.5-mile paved pass between the towns of Stowe and Cambridge.
During the winter, the road is closed to vehicles due to the steep switchbacks that make it dangerous to navigate. This annual closure makes it a wonderful place to hike, snowshoe, cross-country ski, or even sled.
Massive boulders and 1,000-foot cliffs give the area a prehistoric air. I wind my way to the top under a canopy of snow-laden firs and paper birch trees. The Notch is an ideal way to burn pre-lunch calories.
Dashing through the snow
Not all outdoor activities in Stowe require elevating heart rates. Topnotch, a high-end hotel, offers festive sleigh rides. Beautiful Edson Hill has an outdoor apres-ski firepit available to guests whether they’ve skied or not. Spruce Peak Village has an ice skating rink and the landscape offers miles of snowmobiling trails.
When I’m in Stowe, I’d rather hunker down with a mug of chamomile tea in front of a roaring fire with my markers than get on a snowmobile or ice skate. But I get it, not everyone shares my passion for coloring.
Non-active activities
Stowe is inherently enchanting. I often take a drive in search of the area’s covered bridges. SLR and iPhone in tow, I wind up and around the hills admiring the mountains as I go.
One bridge worth seeking out is Goldbrook Bridge, aka Emily’s Bridge. Built in 1844, this Howe Truss bridge is said to be haunted by Emily’s ghost. Another is barn red Brookdale Bridge which is located at the end of the Rec Path. Photo ops abound in Stowe. Aside from coloring, it’s probably my favorite non-active activity.
Insider Tip: Avoid Main Street, Mountain Road, and Shaw’s Supermarket like the plague starting around 3-4pm. This is the time all those hungry skiers and snowboarders leave the mountain en masse—creating traffic havoc and unwieldy check-out lines.
Spa-Bound
Even on days when I don’t clock more than 2,000 steps, a winter massage is always welcome. The Spa at Topnotch has treatments to warm guests from the inside out. Take your pick from the extensive menu, Thai, deep tissue, CBD, magnesium, or a side-by-side massage with your partner. With scrubs, facials, peels, and infusions, the Spa at Topnotch counts as a full-day activity in my book.
Unwind at Cork
Nothing completes my day like a glass of wine. Tucked in a Stowe side street just off Main, Cork is a wine bar designed for unwinding. Vermont’s first and only natural wine shop and restaurant, its dimly lit atmosphere draws many locals. Small bites like croquettes, baked brie, and focaccia with whipped ricotta pair well with my bold cabernet.
After dinner, I step outside the restaurant and notice the dramatic underlighting of Stowe’s church steeple. A few snowflakes are falling which adds to the fairy-tale setting. According to the forecast, a storm is on the way. I head home and fall into a deep sleep.
Let it Snow Stowe
I wake up at 7am and am on the mountain within an hour. It’s 22 degrees and the skies are a dense, foggy gray. At the Quad’s summit, the visibility is compromised and snow conditions are frozen granular, at best. More people are flying down Lord and Sunrise than I would like. There isn’t a single hot ski instructor in sight.
It’s epic.
Click here for my Stowe Winter Destination Hot Sheet (with links). It’s free.
Stowe, Vermont Interactive Map
About Mark Vandenberg:
I don’t normally highlight other photographers, but when I find one so clearly superior in their field, I’m all too happy to showcase them. Having discovered his talent for capturing landscapes about 15 years ago, he’s now one of the leading fine art photographers in Stowe.
Follow Mark’s work at www.stowebeautiful.com and on Instagram: @stowebeautiful.
Looks totally delightful.