A butterfly floats out from the greenhouse door as I walk in. Its pale amber and brown wings catch the breeze. Inside, the smell of ripe tomatoes fills the air—intoxicating in the way only farm-fresh vegetables can be. It’s early morning at Sunnyside, a farm in Washington, Virginia, just 90 minutes west of where I live in Washington DC.
Earlier, I’d spent time speaking with Sunnyside’s Vegetable Production Co-Manager at the Flint Hill Latin Market. Nik Kohl had Asian pears, tomatillos, purslane, herbs, and other vegetables simply displayed under a handwritten sign. A few of the ingredients were unfamiliar to me, like purslane, for instance. Its slightly sour taste reminded me of watercress. Little did I know this highly nutritious, tasty ‘weed’ I’d never heard of would make an appearance at my dinner later that night.
Destination: Blue Rock
I’m Blue Rock-bound. I’m on my way to discover first-hand why this five-bedroom inn and restaurant which sits on 80 acres of rolling hills is creating such a stir in Rappahannock County, Virginia. Bespoke farmhouse rooms, bucolic countryside views, and a vineyard-edged koi pond would normally be enough to pique my interest in a destination.
At Blue Rock, however, there’s another factor at play—Chef Bin Lu.
Bin Lu, formerly of DC’s Pineapple and Pearl fame, trades in his chef whites to take on the blue mountains of Virginia. Partnering with the Farm at Sunnyside, he takes farm-to-table dining one step further. Earth to table and then back to the Earth once more. A culinary cycle worthy of Mother Nature’s stamp of approval—set within a boutique farmhouse inn whose backdrop is the ever-idyllic Blue Ridge Mountains.
Rappa-where?
Not long ago, I couldn’t even pronounce Rappahannock, let alone find it on a map. Who am I kidding? I still can’t say it and I’d still be driving in circles if not for Google. That said, having Blue Ridge mountain towns like Washington and Sperryville within striking distance of DC makes Rappahannock County an uber-convenient mini-break destination.
Taking advantage of its rich, natural beauty, Rappahannock County is dotted with wineries, inns, and farmlands. It’s steeped in American history. “Rappahannock” comes from the equally difficult-to-pronounce Algonquian word lappihanne which translates to ‘where the tide ebbs and flows.’ Ahhh, Virginia—for poets as well as lovers.
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Blue Rock, The Inn
I’m visiting Blue Rock for one night only. And from the moment I walk onto the patio, I regret I don’t have one more. The mountains, layered in their namesake color, are mesmerizing. Blue Rock can certainly be a one-night destination, with fireside drinks, Chef Bin’s four-course menu, and a nightcap at the bar. But two nights would give me more time to savor it, I think, as well as a chance to wander the countryside and little towns.
Once a 19th-century working farm, Blue Rock has been converted into an inn with five stately and lovingly-designed rooms. Scene-stealing wallpapers adorn the walls, including one of my favorites by Cole&Son Fornasetti called Nuvolette.
A combination of cozy contemporary French-inspired furniture mixed with traditional accents and touches of bronze make each room an individual gem. With literary names like Walden, Thornton, and Hawkins, I want to come back with the latest Ann Patchett novel and try them all.
At Blue Rock, It’s All In The Details
The main house is classically beautiful, simple, and intimate. I admire the expertly-curated details as I walk around. A wooden chess board. A braided floor lamp. A stack of carefully chosen architecture books. In my room, I fall in love with the dark, slightly eerie, floral bathroom wallpaper, wishing I had the guts to be so bold in my own home.
Patterns overlap patterns that shouldn’t work together but somehow do. The artwork is clearly hand-picked—the kind of pieces I’d be giddy about if I’d found them at an estate sale. The discoveries go on as I linger in each room and explore the common spaces.
But perhaps the most intriguing area is the private dining room with its overly low, post and beam ceilings, overly tall fireplace, and garden-inspired wallpaper. The space has ‘celebration’ written all over it. With seating for up to 12 guests, the host can work with Chef Bin to create a menu destined to elegantly mark any milestone birthday or anniversary.
Meet Rappahannock County’s New Chef
Earlier in the day, I’d had a chance to meet Chef Bin. I asked him how he finds his inspiration for the menu. He told me, “Blue Rock is an expression of what is already here.” Another poetic sentiment. It’s clear the mineral-rich Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia have much to do with the food plated at Blue Rock. Chef Bin creates his distinct dishes around them.
Later, he tells me he often revises a dish as the night goes on—evolving the presentation and balance of ingredients in real-time. This is a stark contrast to the rigid, tweezer-plated meals some might come to expect with tasting menus of this caliber.
One Night and Four Courses at Blue Rock
Before dinner, I sit on a lawn chair to admire the late-setting sun with a cocktail from the bar. The vineyards and koi pond in the distance add multiple layers of beauty to the scene. I meet up with my friend and we head inside, excitedly anticipating the meal ahead.
An amuse-bouche of puréed greens as fresh as the farm itself appears first. No doubt some of the herbs and ‘weeds’ I saw at the farm market this morning have made their way into this energizing first taste.
The four courses that follow are alike in their refusal to be fussy, despite the pretty plating. Yet, they are wildly diverse in their flavors and textures. There are two options for each course, and in most cases, we divide and conquer in order to sample them all.
Choices Abound at Blue Rock
I start with a Warm Mushroom Chawanmushi. The menu tells me the herbs, vegetables, and greens are sourced from The Farm at Sunnyside. Until my recent dinner at Kappo Makoto, in DC, I’d never heard of this traditional Japanese dish. The balance of salty and sweet in Chef Bin’s interpretation of steamed egg custard is a pure expression of umami. My friend starts with the Ike Jime Fluke Crudo layered with pickled vegetables and tempura flakes that give the dish a subtle crunch.
The second course is a choice of Saffron Rice Pilaf with Tsar Nicoulai Trout Row and Sweet Corn Agnolotti with Button Chanterelles. I don’t know who Tsar Nicoulai is but his trout roe brings a supreme pop of color and flavor to the creamy rice. The pasta is equally flavorful and becomes my favorite bite of the night.
For the third course, I choose the Roasted Atlantic Halibut with Sauce Meunière because I’m intrigued by the accompanying zucchini millefeuille. The plating is approachable, not labored, and the sauce is just rich enough not to overpower the delicate fish. The ribbon of zucchini is a delicious and theatrical flourish.
Dinner is paced to perfection, giving us time to catch up and enjoy the well-chosen wine pairing. The room seats only 32 people, yet it has a convivial buzz. Twinkle lighting on the outdoor dining patio adds to the ambiance and view.
Blue Rock and The Farm, A Brilliant Partnership
The next morning, with Chef Bin’s four courses firmly behind me, I have time to reflect. I recall my conversation with Nik who’d told me about the relationship between Sunnyside and Blue Rock. While we had not left any food behind last night, if we had, all scraps and waste would have been returned to Sunnyside for composting.
Nik had told me the story of an unintentional experiment in composting. One season, they had only enough compost to fertilize half of their hot peppers. When it came time to pick them, the difference in growth was astonishing. The peppers which had had the benefit of the compost were nearly double the size of the non-composted peppers.
This brilliant food cycle benefits all involved—the planet, the produce, the farmer, the chef, and the diners. Did this make me feel even better about my meal at Blue Rock? Absolutely.
Coming Full Circle, at Blue Rock
Chef Bin Lu’s culinary finesse shines bright at Blue Rock. His dedication to sourcing unique ingredients from local farms speaks volumes about his commitment to flavor, nutrition, sustainability, and the dining experience as a whole. Blue Rock’s Earth-conscious philosophy extends beyond the plate, as it takes sustainable dining to new heights—creating a full-circle approach that epitomizes the notion that what we eat and where it comes from matters.
My Blue Rock mini-break ended up being more than the sweet little inn and farmhouse dinner I’d expected. The combination of lovely rooms, tranquil views, and welcoming staff was only the beginning.
Chef Bin’s closed loop between Blue Rock and farms like Sunnyside makes the difference between having dinner and having a dining experience. Not a fussy, formal experience—but one filled with highlights between the courses.
One that allows for a touch of serendipity, a few surprises, and a yes, a bit of poetry.
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Disclaimer: Although I was kindly hosted by Blue Rock for my stay, all opinions stated are my own. As always, I’ll only recommend places I fully believe in.
Loved this post and as I was reading down your selections for dinner I anticipated a fantastic finishing course. No room left for dessert?