Mendoza, Argentina /
Francis Mallmann may be one of the top chefs in the Americas, but as of January 2016, we had never heard of him. That is, until one snowy night at home we saw his episode of the Netflix docu-series, Chef’s Table. Each episode highlights a chef from around the world, and the footage and scenery intertwined with the food can be mesmerizing, especially if you watch it when you are hungry! Part of what makes Mallmann unique, is his use of cooking on open flames, whether that be above ground or underground, and never in an expected way.
So when the show zeroed in on his Argentine restaurant in the Uco Valley of Mendoza, Siete Fuegos (literally Seven Fires), which is in a resort called The Vines, nestled at the base of the Andes mountains, we headed straight for the computer and booked on the spot. A spontaneous and slightly alcohol-induced move, no doubt. From there, we built our two-week spring break holiday and didn’t look back.
Mendoza’s Top Winery/Luxury Resort
The Vines is a spectacular find. Set, as you’d imagine, around an expanse of vineyards, it is part winery and part luxury resort. You can take the complimentary bikes and explore the 1500 hectares of private vines, where you will inevitably stumble upon the free-standing, all-glass gym and rock climbing wall that rises above the grapes so that you have an unobstructed view of the Andes while you work out.
The villas at The Vines are beautifully decorated, I wanted to move in and stay there, it felt like a home, not a hotel. Stone hot tub, rooftop seating, complimentary iPads and Apple TV for entertainment, all the creature comforts of home, nestled along a path of desert-like gardens, it far exceeded our expectations.
The Siete Fuegos Experience at The Vines
We dined at Siete Fuegos more than once, it being the main restaurant at the resort. True to Argentine custom, dinners were served quite late (with service being much slower and leisurely than we were used to) and the Malbec flowed generously and at all hours. One night we left the kids behind and had one of the Mallmann’s Seven Fire dining experiences. Set outside, yet within the open kitchen, and surrounded by the seven different ‘fires’, a table for 30 was set up for a long Argentine communal meal. As the night went on, and the courses came out, the decibel level got higher and higher.
Guests from Norway, Finland, Brazil, and Connecticut—everyone with a different story about how they found themselves here. The salmon had been baked in a cast iron skillet for hours and within a three-inch crust of salt. We had goat that had been strung up to a cage with an open bonfire-style fire surrounding it. It was a culinary adventure with a chef we had all traveled far and wide to see. No one was disappointed, it was a magical dinner experience.
Bodegas and Surprises in Mendoza
We were told we couldn’t leave Mendoza without lunch and a winery tour at Bodega La Azul. Due to an unexpected glitch, we found ourselves without a lunch reservation as planned. However, the owner said he would still happily take us on a tour of his boutique winery. Falling into the category of ‘sometimes things happen for a reason’, we let nature take its course, although truth be told I was envious of all the guests being seated on the patio as we walked past. Maybe he saw my disappointment because he then told us about a family he knew that was opening a restaurant nearby out of their home. It sounded intriguing, so we got the address, took a leap of faith, and headed into the foothills to find El Paisano.
It was far from a restaurant, it was a home, but we ate one of the most authentic meals we could have hoped for, all eight traditional courses prepared and served by five members of a lovely Argentine family. We sat at a table on the banks of a freshwater stream, the kids found some fishing poles and tried their luck. Daniel and I sat with a bottle of wine and wondered how we ended up here. Oh, and the wine? La Azul, of course.
Five reasons to get lost in Mendoza, Argentina:
- Soaking in a hot tub surrounded by vineyards and mountain views.
- Hair-raising and liability-filled sunrise horseback ride with your gaucho, Nino. Pack your own helmet.
- Wine tastings and winemaking without having to leave the resort.
- Catch a glimpse of a hawk as you wander through the vineyards.
- Mallmann’s beautifully designed kitchen garden.
The Robbins family followed Jamie’s itinerary in Mendoza complete with the Vines, La Azul, and El Paisano–one of the best most delicious, most beautiful trips ever (we also took our kids and it was so fun for all).
Thanks for the info. I would advise against buying a private Vineyard estate here – the properties CANNOT be resold once purchased.