The Lofoten Islands are home to some of Earth’s most majestic and dramatic scenery. An adventure-lover’s playground, there‘s no one way to explore this dreamy archipelago in the Arctic Circle. Read on to discover how best to plan a trip to Norway’s most unique islands, including transportation methods, accommodation options, activities, and itinerary ideas.
‘Let’s go to the Lofoten Islands next summer,’ I say to my husband over dinner. He lifts his gaze and looks at me like I’ve just asked him to bungee jump into an active volcano.
‘We got back from Ibiza yesterday!’ he says in exasperation. ‘Next summer is a long way off.’
‘Except it isn’t,’ I argue. ‘Especially for remote places like the Lofoten Islands. Just wait. The rest of Europe has wildfires, crowds, and raging heat. Scandinavia will be the next travel hot spot. Not temperature hot—cool hot. Get it? We’ll be able to say we went first!’
Daniel sighs. I win.
The Lofoten Islands: Where to Start
Yikes, I win! Now what?
The DC heat is melting the soles off my shoes. But there’s no better time to plan for (next) summer. I start by tapping into my trusted travel sources. Google helps me map distances between islands, villages, and sights. Norwegian bloggers recommend lodging whose websites I comb through in granular detail. Adventure bloggers highlight must-do activities that I’m not convinced I’m adventurous enough to do. I cross-reference this information with Condé Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, and Outside Magazine to gauge credibility.
Then, I call my travel advisor to put the pieces of this Norwegian travel puzzle together. And although they’re still placing the finishing touches on their clients’ current summer trips, they listen as if they have all the time in the world. If they’re rolling their eyes about my fear of not getting a cabin in Nusfjord twelve months from now, I can’t tell.
I’m up for an Arctic adventure. The first question is, are you?
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Q. Where are the Lofoten Islands, exactly?
The Lofoten Islands are in Northern Norway, just inside the Arctic Circle—an archipelago of seven main islands bisected by glacial fjords. I discover the Lofoten Islands through Instagram. Those algorithms are scarily spot on. I’m immediately drawn to the dramatic mountainscape and steep walls of the deep, rocky fjords.
I’m intrigued by the Midnight Sun—keen to find out how I’ll stay asleep in the absence of darkness. (Spoiler alert: I don’t—pack an eye mask). I imagine feeling the fresh, cool Arctic air while searching for sea eagles and whales. I’m more excited to sleep in an authentic fisherman’s cabin than an oceanfront suite at The Four Seasons.
Lofoten Facts:
• The Lofoten Island mountains are about 100 miles long and over 3 billion years old.
• The total population of the Lofoten Islands is approximately 24,500.
• In Svolvær, the Midnight Sun prevails from May 25 to July 18.
• During the summer, the Lofoten Islands have a mild, if changeable, climate.
Q. How do we get there?
The key to getting to the Lofoten Islands is the willingness to enjoy the journey and the destination. This is unpopular wisdom in my family, who treat an airport terminal like an Olympic sports arena. It isn’t hard to reach the Lofoten Islands—it just takes time and patience.
The best way to reach the Lofoten Islands is via ferry from the mainland port of Bodø. (Bodø is a 1.5-hour flight from Oslo.) Approaching Lofoten by boat can’t be underestimated. The distant islands are layered in rich gemstone hues of green and blue. The jagged, rugged-edged mountains look prehistoric and cut sharply against the cloudless blue sky. Passengers may even spot a pod of pilot whales if they are lucky. Keep your eyes open.
Travel Notes:
• Oslo is the most convenient gateway to the Lofoten Islands.
• Many visitors fly from Oslo to Bodø then take a passenger ferry or prop plane to Svolvær or Leknes.
• The ferry is a scenic and cost-effective way to get to the Lofoten Islands. Be sure to buy ferry tickets in advance using this link.
• Widerøe offers direct flights from Oslo to Lofoten, but they are seasonal. Check availability.
• Consider adding a few days in Oslo on the way to Lofoten and a few days in Bergen on the way home. Two days are ample time to explore these two cities and have the added benefit of breaking up the travel.
Q. Is Manshaussen Island Worth a Detour?
Manshaussen is an island retreat 850 miles north of Oslo and 31 miles south of the Lofoten Islands. It’s a big detour for a small resort, but I’m not visiting the Arctic Circle without at least one night in their award-winning glass sea cabins. Manshaussen was an insta-discovery circa 2018. Now, via a 1.5-hour flight to Bodø, a 2.5-hour passenger ferry to Nordskot, and a 5-minute speed boat, it becomes an insta-reality.
Sound amazing? Oh, it is! Read all about it here.
After three blissful day-filled nights on Manshaussen, we take a ferry across the Vestfjorden to Svolvær, the unofficial capital of the Lofoten Islands.
Q. How many days will we need?
Like many visitors to the Lofoten Islands, we travel mainly between the towns of Svolvær and Å. This scenic north-to-south driving route takes approximately 2 ½ hours. But having 4-6 days to explore this seemingly short route is necessary, as there are endless villages to wander, mountains to hike, pastries to devour, and wide sandy beaches to divert our attention.
The benefit of having a few extra days allows for flexibility. For example, if it rains the day a big hike is planned, you can adjust as needed.
Q. What’s the best way to get around?
A rental car is a must in the Lofoten Islands. We pick up ours in Svolvær, a natural starting point due to its convenient ferry terminal and airport. Svolvær’s roots as a fishing town are evident everywhere, from the traditional rorbus (fisherman cabins) to classic fishing boats and the ubiquitous stockfish drying racks.
As a side note, stockfish (Arctic Cod) is Lofoten’s claim to fame—Norway’s oldest and most important export. They say the smell of the drying cod is the smell of money, but I think that’s just a clever way to reframe an unpleasant odor.
The main road that connects the islands is the E10. It’s a staggeringly scenic and easy-to-navigate route, with low-arching, serpentine bridges, tunnels, and off-shoots to seaside villages and beaches. Camping and camper vans are especially popular ways to explore, but I’d rather eat stockfish for a year than roam Lofoten by van. My holiday, my choice.
Know before you go:
• Rent a car in advance as availability is limited.
• Public transportation is not an ideal way to get around.
• Go old school and take a paper map just in case WI-FI is an issue.
• The journey is the destination! Enjoy the drive. To use a technical term, it’s crazy beautiful.
Q. What’s a rorbuer?
Rorbuer are the seaside stilted, wooden huts where traveling fishermen lived during the harsh cod fishing season. Up to four fishermen lived in each rorbu, which had kitchenettes and, most importantly, direct access to their boats. Today, these iconic cabins, most painted bright red with white trim, have been retrofitted as tourist accommodations. Some, however, are better retrofitted than others.
Q. Where will we stay?
I dive deep into rorbu websites, knowing we will sacrifice some traditional luxury for a more authentic accommodation experience. Belmond, Aman, and Auberge have yet to break ground in the Arctic. Long may that last.
For our five nights in Lofoten, we decide on two lodgings along our route—two nights in Svolvær and three in Nusfjord. These two bases allow us to easily wander the north and south regions and experience multiple rorbus with multiple views.
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Svinøya Rorbuer
In Svolvær, we stay at Svinøya Rorbuer, whose below-average amenities and modest, underwhelming decor are compensated by its fantastic location, lively outdoor pub/restaurant, and harbor views. I can’t stop photographing the rorbuers and could often be found well past my usual bedtime waiting for the dipping sun to fire up its red exterior.
Nusfjord Arctic Resort, Nusfjord
In contrast, Nusfjord Arctic Resort tips as far toward luxury as one can hope for in Lofoten. A Small Luxury Hotel of the World, this resort preserves the look and feel of a traditional fishing village.
Nusfjord’s rorbus are mustard yellow; many are several hundred years old. Tourists are welcome to explore the grounds, the general store, the bakery, the smithy, the boatshed, and the cod liver refinery throughout the day. But come 5pm, the property is reserved for guests only.
Nusfjord’s rooms are beautifully restored and appointed. Our rorbu has an ample yet cozy living space and two small bedrooms. The low ceilings were designed to warm the fishermen in the harsh winter. With soft bathrobes, slippers, and a Nespresso machine, Nusfjord’s cabins would be unrecognizable to the fisherman who slept there decades ago.
Other Rorbuers worth considering:
• Eliassen Rorbuer, in Hamnøy/Reine
• Reinefjorden Sjøhus, in Hamnøy/Reine
• Sakrisøy Rorbuer, in Reine
Q. What do we do there?
The Lofoten Islands are an adventure-seeker’s playground. And the Midnight Sun means no barriers exist to enjoying all they offer. Hiking, fishing, kayaking, SUP’ing, and fjord-exploring are just a few adrenaline-filled activities we participate in. We plan geographically, using our two bases wisely.
RIB’ing in Trollsfjord
In Svolvær, we take a high-speed RIB boat across Trollfjord—one of Lofoten’s most breathtaking fjords. RIB stands for ‘rigid inflatable boat.’ They’re an ideal way to crisscross the fjords and soak up the landscape’s natural beauty.
Trollfjord is defined by its narrow entrance, steep-sided mountains, and convocations of sea eagles. The eagles, also known as white-tailed eagles, are majestic. Their piercing eyes have two centers of focus. This binocular vision means they can see forward and sidewards at the same time, which is a pretty amazing, yet nerdy, bird fact.
Hiking in Svolvær and Reine
Daniel organizes two family hikes. He’s militant about getting to the summits in record time, so to an outside observer, our hikes look like four angry solo hikers muttering silently to themselves. But all our rage dissipates at the summit, even our daughter’s— the views are that good.
The hike to Devil’s Gate (Djevelporten) is accessed via Devil’s Staircase (Djeveltrappa), an ungodly number of stone stairs 1.8 miles straight up the mountain. It’s hell. But unveils a heavenly 360-degree panorama of Svolvær.
Further south, Reinbringen may be the most famous hike in Lofoten. This is due to its pinnacle views over the archipelago’s most picturesque villages—Reine, Sakrisøy, and Hamnøy. At 2 km total in and out, don’t be fooled by the seemingly short distance. This treacherous hike is a one-kilometer staircase to the sky.
Other activities worth mentioning:
• Kayaking (Reine Adventure)
• The Blacksmith Museum and live blacksmith demonstration at Sund
• Artscape Nordland: 35 works of art placed in the landscape across Nordland; five are in Lofoten, including ‘Untitled’ by American artist Dan Graham
• The scenic, seaside Nusfjord to Nesland hike—accessed from Nusfjord Arctic Resort
Q. What do I pack?
Packing for Lofoten requires anticipating nearly every type of weather. The sky could be misty, foggy, and rainy at breakfast, then bright blue and cloudless by lunch. I wear layers most days, peeling them off as the temperatures rise. Thankfully, nothing is fancy in Lofoten. Hiking shoes and rain gear are a must. But, the inherent hygge culture of Norway means a hot sauna is always just a few white-slippered steps away.
Forgoing fancy doesn’t mean I can’t look good, so I rely on neutral colors and wrinkle-free fabrics I can wear multiple times. All are packed in my Eagle Creek carry-on bag, which is essential for a trip with so many moving parts.
My packing essentials:
• Lightweight puffer jacket
• Raincoat
• 2 x sweater/fleece
• 2 x short-sleeved shirts and tank tops
• 2 x long, lightweight pants
• 2 x summer dresses
• 1 pair each of birks or sandals and hiking shoes
• Bathing suit
• Sunglasses, sunscreen, hat
• Eyemask
Q. What if I Don’t Want to Go Home?
While most articles and blog posts (including this one) agree that 4-6 days is plenty of time to visit the Lofoten Islands, I would have happily spent another night or two. These breathtaking islands are far less accessible than the Caribbean, and my chances of returning are slim.
I don’t want to go home. Yet I do—via flights to Bergen, Reykjavik, and finally, Washington DC, where we touch down to the same thermometer-shattering heat we left ten days ago. I miss the Arctic air. I miss the eagles.
Over dinner a few nights later, I say, ‘So Daniel, I’ve been thinking about next summer…’
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