Sugar Beach, St. Lucia—When my family heads off on a beach holiday, some of us want to do everything, and some of us want to do nothing. Usually, I want to do a little bit of something, then a whole lot of nothing. As it turns out, there is a place for families like us, where you can do absolutely everything, or absolutely nothing, at exactly the same time. Sugar Beach, St. Lucia seemed to find that fantastic balance of being a family-friendly resort, while not feeling like it was designed for kids.
Between the Pitons at Sugar Beach in St. Lucia
The Pitons, a duo of volcanic spires, are St. Lucia’s main event. I’d happily debate anyone who says otherwise. It’s the unique selling point of Viceroy’s Sugar Beach and St. Lucia as far as I am concerned. Sitting at 2,618ft and 2,438ft respectively, both Gros and Petit Pitons are the natural defining features of this lush paradise.
St. Lucia’s Sugar Beach won the Caribbean lottery on location, being one of only two resorts that rest between them, and the only one that is beachfront. They have been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and at any given time of day, one piton is lit to perfection, while the other lies in dramatic shadow. Both are awe-inspiring and magnificent around the clock. They are so highly regarded, that the local beer is named ‘Piton’, in their honor.
Sugar Beach’s villas and cottages
Contrary to our usual travel mantra of never repeating a trip, this was our second time to St. Lucia and Sugar Beach. Back in 2014, we opted for a white clapboard colonial cottage neatly camouflaged in the hills overlooking the sea.
With its private plunge pool, Rainforest Spa, and on-demand golf cart access, this Viceroy resort was just the kind of hideaway we were after. Cascading flora and fauna nearly swallowed the entrance, and it boasted majestic views of the Pitons—nature enveloped us from all angles.
This time, we had a few more people in tow and opted for a beachfront villa. In contrast to the intimate cottage, it was wide-open and airy, had two pools, and a hot tub, and sat directly on the beach.
The long, infinity pool paralleled the sea, hovering just high enough above it so that it looked as if we were swimming laps alongside the horizon. The villa’s expansive patio had front-row seats to sunsets, and during our five nights, each was more spectacular than the one before.
We found it so hard to tear ourselves away, that on our last evening, we decided to have dinner on the patio and settle in for the night. The four poster beds had gauzy mosquito netting that gave the rooms a dreamy feeling. White-on-white, with dark wooden colonial touches, added to the breezy vibe of the villa.
Every window faced the ocean, where we watched the chartered catamarans, and privately owned yachts, slowly drift in and out of the harbor. An unvarnished portrait of the ever-changing seascape being painted before our eyes.
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Colonial Vibes at Sugar Beach, St. Lucia
Sugar Beach sits on a staggering 100 acres of rainforest, on what was once a thriving sugar plantation dating back to the 18th century. Today, plantation architecture characterizes the villas from the inside out. Common areas are accented by potted plants that border the exterior and inner walkways. Overgrown and lush, tropical, flowers appear around every corner.
The villa’s loungy outdoor seating surrounds the pool, and doors are wide open to the sea from the bedrooms and living spaces. The kitchen was stocked with wine upon arrival, as well as fruit, and bottled water. If something was needed, it was just a phone call to our villa butler to help.
Resort Life at Sugar Beach
Our villa was a short walk to the main part of the resort, which was a nice perk as the kids could easily come and go as they pleased. The Pitons that bookend the bay make it a finite wonderland for roaming kids. The main house has multiple restaurants, a kid’s club, a sushi bar, swinging daybeds, and touches of surprisingly interesting artwork.
Sugar Beach takes hotel artwork to a higher level, and I found myself wondering who curated it. Notable too was that the artwork seemed to stand the test of time. Not an easy feat in a world that is constantly reinventing itself.
Culinary delights at Sugar Beach
There are multiple restaurants and bars at Sugar Beach, each having its own slice of Caribbean character. Restaurant Bayside is open-air and (as named) steps from the bay. Fresh tuna, Mahi Mahi, and wood-fired pizzas, as well as multiple vegetarian options, made everyone in our group happy.
We surprised ourselves with more than one dinner at The Cane Bar. The Cane Bar is nearly hidden behind an imposing black door off the art gallery. Asian in inspiration, with the interesting addition of being known for its rum drinks.
It was a much-needed change up from the Caribbean-influenced menus. Fresh tuna, sea bream, and sea bass, all with pretty presentations had us coming back. The decor is classic in black and white, yet somehow made warmer by the avant-garde sculpture and unusual multi-media pieces.
While my only wish is that it also had outdoor seating, it was a hit with our entire group. As a bonus, a billiards room is tucked in the back. There, we would relax with a cocktail post-dinner, and hide from our kids.
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Sugar Beach’s atypical breakfast buffet
Breakfast is served on another veranda, above a sweeping flight of stairs and past a large beautiful pond. I’m not much for breakfast, but the Sugar Beach interpretation certainly makes anyone rethink the run-of-the-mill buffet. My kids are still talking about it as a highlight months later. Fresh yogurts, grains, fruits, cereals. A wide variety of juices, like watermelon, guava, and papaya, sat chilling in glass pitchers.
There are at least five different types of freshly baked bread. The T80 sourdough became an immediate obsession among us. We may or may not have ‘borrowed’ a few loaves the morning we left the resort for our sailing trip. Made-to-order smoothies and enough cow’s milk alternatives to make any lactose-free guest swoon. Breakfast buffet, perfected.
The Ultimate Hike at Sugar Beach, St. Lucia
A true experiment in forgetting about pain, climbing Gros Piton was far more challenging than I remembered from 2014. Perhaps being older, less fit, and having a moody teenager in tow, added to the drama.
We started at sea level which added about 30 minutes to the climb. Big mistake. We were in a full sweat by the time we reached the village entrance. Annoying perky hikers were just starting their ascent.
Our guides kept to our pace, which was a challenge as our group was scattered all over the mountain. I stayed far enough ahead of my daughter so I couldn’t hear her complaints. And well behind my husband, son, and his friend, who high-tailed it to the summit at breakneck speed.
There are two summit viewpoints, and after 1 1/2 hours or so we reached the first. If I had to do it again, I’d skip the first summit and go directly to the next one. It was far prettier and made the blood, sweat, and tears, more worthwhile. I will even go as far as to say that the mid-mountain summit, is just as breathtaking. It stares directly toward Petit Piton (which, confusingly, is more challenging to climb than Gros Piton).
My quads were on fire for the remainder of the day (and the next). I counted it as my ‘something’ for the trip. Then spent the next four days congratulating myself for having earned four days of ‘nothing’. My daughter still complains about the hike regularly.
Wander or Lounge? Both, naturally.
There is no end to activities available at a family-friendly spot like Sugar Beach. Among them: waterskiing, scuba, snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, tennis, the Rainforest Spa, and tubing. My favorite? On the beach under a shaggy, golden thatched umbrella with an order of shrimp tacos. From there, I could watch the kids waterski, or jump from the circular water loungers that dotted the swimming area.
For all of the activities on hand, though, it never felt like an over-the-top, Disney-fied experience. At times, it had a homespun quality to it, kids left to play a game of pick-up soccer or to run with wild abandon on the beach.
The Rainforest Spa, at Viceroy’s Sugar Beach
Even in a setting as relaxed as St. Lucia, there are always ways to get a little more relaxed. The Rainforest Spa at Sugar Beach is in a class of its own. A long, bamboo-lined, serpentine corridor dotted with rattan-covered lanterns leads to the spa reception—allowing just the right amount of romantic light through its slats.
The massage huts are scattered around, hovering in the trees, with sunlight filtering softly between the leaves. I felt as if I had happened upon a primitive island. An ethereal start to an hour of relaxation.
St. Lucia, unfiltered
In an overly filtered world, (and I love my filters as much as the next Instagrammer), I will say that I draw the line at sunsets. If I can’t capture the sunset without using one, then it just isn’t worth capturing.
Luckily, St. Lucian sunsets required no filters. The nightly drama, the changing kaleidoscope of colors, was one of the few things that everyone in my family could sit still for.
Often, the simplest things bring the most happiness. Even if stripped of boats, gear, toys, and massage tables, Sugar Beach St. Lucia would still overdeliver. What lies between the pitons is a timeless natural wonder, enhanced by the warm-hearted staff that made us feel wholly welcome.
On our final night, a fierce game of beach cricket ensued. It was one of my favorite lasting memories of the trip. To paraphrase Winston Churchill, “All the great things are simple.” I couldn’t agree more.
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