Tucked up in the Smoky Mountains of Tennessee. Blackberry Mountain sets a high bar by combining unique adventures and holistic wellness activities. And, it takes adventures even further with locally sourced food, and the comforts of home. This post describes how Blackberry Mountain entices each of the senses, in completely unexpected ways.
This is Blackberry Mountain
Big Double Shelter is a wide, wooden deck at the end of Big Double Trail. The treetops in the distance look freshly painted. Brushstrokes of oily red, orange, and yellow skim the uppermost leaves.
The result is an undulating wave of late autumn color. Big Double Shelter hovers above pine trees adorned with clusters of prickly pinecones jut precariously over a deep ravine. We are the only hikers out this brisk November morning. The silence is deafening.
THUMP.
“Uh oh,” my friend says, “there goes the walkie-talkie”.
I peer over the edge. But she’s already scrambling down the steep slope to recover it from the forest floor. I think to myself, this is the part of the film when things begin to go horribly wrong.
What’s to fear? It’s not as if there are black bears roaming the Smoky Mountains in late November. Or, that the walkie-talkie is our sole connection to the lodge? Alerting the front desk of our hiking route, as recommended, is no longer unimportant.
We’d brought only a 4 oz bottle of water between us because we want to travel ‘light’. And, perhaps I’m not the confident map reader I pretend to be. Is the sky starting to turn an ominous gray? Is the wind picking up? Why do I feel suddenly parched? Curse you, my overactive imagination.
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At Blackberry Mountain, adventure and luxury overlap
If this mini-adventure appears to be threaded with fear, it is fleeting. In this case, the ‘Girls’ Weekend Gone Wrong’ thriller would have to wait, as our hike had an uneventful ending. My friend recovered the slippery walkie-talkie, the skies reverted to cerulean blue, the wind abated, and the water sufficed. The only evidence of bear was an ambiguous claw scrape in the dirt.
Blackberry Mountain, a luxury/adventure lodge in Walland, Tennessee, is as eventful or uneventful as one wants it to be. The property’s sweet spot is best illustrated between the layers. Layers as thick and interesting as the Smoky Mountains themselves.
Blackberry Mountain, in brief
The Beall family started Blackberry Farm as a six-room country inn in the mid-70s. Over the years it has grown and gained worldwide attention in the hospitality sphere. In 2018, the Beall family opened a sister property, Blackberry Mountain. Blackberry Mountain covers eight miles of protected ridge line over 5200 acres. Almost half of which is dedicated to land conservation. Not to overdramatize, but it’s spectacular.
The Watchman Cabins
Ramshackle, Cripple Creek, Crackling Hen, and Old Smoky. Welcome to the watchman cabins. A six-of-a-kind collection that lines the top ridge of the property. Each cabin comes with its own personalized golf cart so getting around the property is never an issue. Our cabin is Ramshackle, set just across from the forest-enclosed, infinity-edged, hot tub. No golf cart is needed.
Outside, the smell of new wood-burning wafts from the neighboring cabins. And the fresh scent of morning dew is ever more noticeable after the night’s heavy downpour.
The cabins are rustic-chic. For instance, Ramshackle has layers of wooden beamed walls, and wide, wood-planked floors. Additionally, there’s a wood-burning stove and a free-standing deep soaking tub to complete the comfy, cozy setting. Endless little luxuries are sprinkled throughout the cabin.
Amenity Overload
As an example, Aesop toiletries sit at the edge of the deep, stand-alone tub. A Nespresso maker and assorted teas are on hand for a morning caffeine fix. And, remote-controlled roller shades reveal the lofty view from floor-to-ceiling windows. Amenities, galore.
Additionally, brass binoculars (for bird or bear viewing) are set atop the iron stove. Also, there is a basket of firewood ready to take the chill from the cool evening air. Thick, wool, blankets drape the chairs, begging to be worn. So, that regardless of the outside temperature, we could still enjoy views from the deck.
The trees in front of Ramshackle’s picture window are stark, having already lost most of their leaves. Spindly branches overlap one another, an inky contrast against the morning’s milky fog.
7am. I’m not a morning person. But, I try to keep my eyes open long enough to witness the mist rise beyond the windows. I want to watch the sun break through to reveal the patches of farmland below. Watercolor hues of overlapping blues shape the mountains. Steel blue, gray-blue, periwinkle, cornflower, and as expected, smoky blue. I don’t even have to leave my bed. If there is ever a place to have cabin fever, this is it.
Naturally, views trump everything at Blackberry Mountain. And none are more intoxicating than from the hilltop Watchman Cabins.
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THREE SISTERS, AND A FIRETOWER RULE OVER BLACKBERRY MOUNTAIN
There are two restaurants at Blackberry Mountain: Firetower and Three Sisters. Firetower is aptly named. It sits at the base of a restored 1950s fire tower that guests can climb for sweeping views. The restaurant is an uphill stone’s throw from our cabin and is where we enjoyed many of our best meals. Three Sisters is a slightly more formal dining experience at the main lodge. We divided our meals between both—always in fear of missing out on something the chefs were inventing. Foodie FOMO, it’s real.
In an effort to try every dish on the menus, we shared everything. My friend has been a vegan for 20 years. I decided to become one for three days. I was curious if my tastebuds would forgive me. If I was making too big a culinary sacrifice. My fears were unwarranted.
Breakfasts and dinners are included in the room rate at Blackberry Mountain, which made being experimental easy. The chefs are more than happy to split the meals so that guests can try everything. In one case, we couldn’t decide on which two of the three main courses to share. Our waitress surprised us by bringing all three.
The chefs and waitstaff were as excited and eager for us to sample the entire menu as we were. It is just that type of ‘above and beyond’ service that shows up in every facet of Blackberry Mountain. No ask was too much trouble. Ever.
Executive Orders
The executive chefs, Joel Werner, of Firetower, and Joey Edwards, of Three Sisters, both create extraordinary multi-course and multi-dimensional meals. The dishes have layers of colors and textures—as interesting visually as culinarily.
Fresh, foraged mushrooms sit atop a crusty flatbread with piles of herbs and garlic. A warm grain bowl explodes in flavors as bold as its colors, a brushstroke of cashew butter at its base. At breakfast, sweet potato hash is sprinkled with crispy rice on a thinly-sliced avocado.
Each dish is an unpretentious work of art; confident, simple, and purposeful. I made no sacrifices being a part-time vegan. Although I did allow myself one diversion, as I couldn’t pass up the wagyu beef entree at Three Sisters.
With chefs like this cooking for me each day, I could easily imagine life as a vegan. At least a part-time vegan.
Pretentious Glass, a Blackberry Mountain exclusive
Speaking of unpretentious works of art, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the decanter. In fact, I could write an entire post about the decanter. Matthew Cummings, owner, founder, and glassblower-in-chief of Pretentious Glass spent years cultivating a relationship with Blackberry Mountain. He now creates exclusive pieces of glassware for them. A fine art sculptor turned commercial artist, Cummings’ creations in glass are a modern, festive, take on classic styles.
His decanter is a carnival of glass. Wide and round with long, whimsical ribbons that stretch from bottom to top. It begged us to choose a wine worthy of it. As a side note, I’m angling to buy one. But I’m told they’re not yet for sale. Yet, I will keep inquiring. Matthew, are you listening?
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BATHED IN SOUND AND LIGHT AT BLACKBERRY MOUNTAIN
Perhaps, the highlight of the getaway is one that I hadn’t anticipated. I was prepared to love the food, the atmosphere, the lodge, and the lodging. I had seen photos, heard stories from friends, and read about the chefs and food. Blackberry Mountain is not an inexpensive undertaking, so a certain level of expectation was inherent. However, the sound bath experience was unexpectedly transporting.
That blustery morning we meet our master of ceremonies. Chris introduces us to the ritual of sound bathing with his warm, lulling voice. The room has high ceilings and is drenched in champagne light. Chris is surrounded by a multitude of instruments; gongs, rainmakers, and chimes, among them. Next, all six guests form a wide semi-circle on the floor with our yoga mats. Lastly, we drape ourselves in soft blankets and placed lightly-scented lavender cloths over our eyes. This is already amazing.
Gongs, Chimes, and Rain
The senses in my body awaken and are warmed from the inside out. I melt into the sounds. The gongs overlap the chimes. Then, the chimes overlap the rainmaker, which sounds like waves crashing onto a beach. First softly, then gaining power, before receding again. I fall asleep, I think. Then awaken to tuning forks in G major, chants, and a few unnameable sounds. The vibrations of those sounds lift and settle within me as I drift in and out of a dream-like state.
All too soon, Chris asks us to sit up. I reluctantly follow orders. The gauzy roller shades are raised, the curtains are drawn. Had I even noticed them earlier? I find myself facing purple mountains— the start of sunset. The ridge is razor sharp, and pink and orange hues are just beginning to appear behind it. I smile. Then wonder when I can do it all over again.
Time’s Up
We attempted a leisurely pace throughout our three days at Blackberry Mountain. We were aiming to find the right balance of chill time and activities. There is much we left undone, which is all the fuel I needed to plan a future trip.
On our final afternoon, a layer of dark clouds descends over the tree line. As if to remind us that it’s time to go. The wind whips in gusts and rattles the stark branches. Not surprisingly, it is still incredibly scenic. But, our time is up.
Blackberry Mountain alighted my senses. It reminded me to admire beauty in the ordinary. Like trees, birdsong, and morning mist. Yet, it had the understated comforts of home but felt extraordinarily luxurious.
It is a hideaway that sparks creativity, calm, and restorativeness. And, it is just what I needed at this moment in my life. To feel snug and secure somewhere outside of my own home.
Whatever it is—the food, the cabins, the hospitality, the treatments, or the adventurous hikes. It is an escape from the familiar. And, who doesn’t sometimes need just that?
Next hike, though, I will take more water.
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