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Where’s Corsica? The Ultimate Guide To Our Corsica Travels

Our Corsica travels take us canyoning through mountains and hiking to mountaintop lakes. Our Corsica travels take us from party beaches to remote ones. Traveling in Corsica is an adventure a day, sprinkled with riverside retreats, clifftop restaurants, and the occasional wild pig.

Where’s Corsica, exactly? And does it belong on your travel wish list? Read on.

“If you don’t project yourself outwards,” our canyoning instructor says calmly, “it will end—how do you say in English—badly.”

I peer over the granite ledge. A gushing waterfall lies to my left, and a rock face extends 30 feet below. I feel, rather than see, my husband and kids doubting me from the water below. ‘Terrified’ vastly understates my singular emotion.

“Project outwards”, our guide repeats. Ever the rule follower, I close my eyes and—

Don’t panic, Mom; it ends well.

Where’s Corsica, exactly?

“Corsica is Italian.”, one friend says. Another assures me it’s Greek. The island of Corsica is closer to mainland Italy than any other country. Yet, surprise!—it’s a territory of France.

Who knew? I sure didn’t. Corsica is as elusive as Keyser Söze in The Usual Suspects. We meet only three other Americans on our trip. A testament to how relatively unknown Corsica is in the United States.

Why visit Corsica? I’ll pretend you asked. Follow along on our island adventures to discover what makes Corsica worth finding on a map.

As an aside, if The Usual Suspects reference escaped you, head over to your sofa and watch it. I’ll wait.

Corsica: What I wish I knew

Corsica is the fourth-largest island in the Mediterranean. There is no public transportation, so renting a car is a must. But be warned: Narrow roads and lanes run serpentine around colossal boulders and cliffs. Hairpin turns are frequent and hair-raising.

There are few, if any, barriers between cars and sudden death. Corsican drivers take to the roads like Lewis Hamilton wannabes. They drive like angry wasps. They laugh at lanes. According to my kids, I gasp 3,000 times. And that number doesn’t include the times I disguise my gasp as a cough.

I’m not making a case for Corsica. Bear with me. It gets better.

Corsica: by the numbers

Corsica is 112 miles long at its longest and 52 miles wide at its widest. It has 620 miles of coastline with 200 beaches. It’s home to the world-famous GR 20 Trail and has over 120 summits. Simmer down Corsica, my flights are booked.

We have 12 days. I want to cover ground but not feel rushed. Visit areas with different terrain and activities. Dine on authentic Corsican food and drink local wine. It’s a tall order, but Corsica delivers.

In Corsica, there are no bad regions (only bad drivers). Note the map of our route above. Those art school fees are really paying off, Dad.

Instead of a linear path (hahaha, there are no linear paths in Corsica!) I’ve outlined the highlights from our three destinations in Corsica. Will any of our adventures inspire you to visit? Let’s find out.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Canyoning, Haut-Corse

I jump—plunging into the cold canyon water with semi-wild abandon. I emerge, still holding my nose, to looks of disbelief (my kids, our guide) and pride (my husband). See, Mom? No need to panic.

“What is canyoning?” you ask. A friend aptly describes canyoning as ‘white water rafting without a raft.’ Hmmm, I don’t even enjoy white water rafting with a raft. The gorges and valleys of the Restonica River are widely known for the sport. If I’m going to try it, I’m in the right place.

After a sweaty 45-minute bathing-suit-clad hike, we put on our wetsuits, helmets, and water shoes. This isn’t pretty. Note the lack of photographic evidence. You’ll have to take me at my word.

We wade into a crystal clear pool of water. It’s crazy fun—to use a technical canyoning term. We scale boulders, swim under waterfalls, jump off cliffs, slide over rocks, and zip line above the river with child-like joy.

White water rafting without a raft turns out to be my new favorite sport.

Corsica Travels: Hiking, Haut-Corse

Our holiday wouldn’t be complete without a ~~treacherous~~ hike organized by my husband. The fact that Daniel and I fight when we hike would lead one to think it’s an activity to be avoided. But, no.

The ride to the trailhead is short yet harrowing. Blind corners with unyielding boulders on one side and unnerving precipices on the other. My kids will say I’m being hyperbolic. Wait. They don’t know what hyperbolic means. They’ll say I’m being emo.

Our goal is a 4-mile in-and-out hike to Lac de Melu in Haut-Corse. The lake sits at an elevation of 5,610 ft. Why we never visit sea-level lakes as regular people do baffles me. The views, (it pains me to admit), are worth the struggle. Don’t tell Daniel.

The landscape is prehistoric. I feel small—like ‘on the set of Jurassic Park’ small. Instead of ferocious dinosaurs, though, we encounter docile cows. Tall pines and fragrant alders look tiny against the towering, jagged mountains that loom in the distance.

Rangy rock faces glisten in the colors of Olympic medals. A gold medal is exactly what I’ll deserve after a day dodging cow dung with two moody teenagers. That, and a vodka tonic.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Coastal Towns and Vineyards

Choosing which towns to visit on an island with 650 miles of coastline is challenging. But I rise to it. Three exceptional examples follow.

PORTO-VECCHIO

Porto-Vecchio is a harbor town in southeast Corsica. Its focal point is Eglise St. Jean-Baptiste, a 19th-century church tower. Beside the church, an old-fashioned merry-go-round slowly rotates, delighting children.

Boutiques, wine shops, and restaurants are abuzz on the piazza. The heartbeat of Porto-Vecchio is palpable. A lovely introduction to Corsican life.

BONIFACIO

Bonifacio towers over the southernmost tip of Corsica. Its sculpted chalk-white limestone cliffs plunge dramatically into the Mediterranean Sea. These imposing sea walls make Bonifacio one of the most popular places to visit in Corsica.

Bonifacio is as picturesque as it is historical. The Staircase of King Aragon sits 200 feet above the sea. It was built in 1420 to access a freshwater well. Each of the 189 irregular stone steps is an accident waiting to happen, yet they are the highlight of my day.

After I reach the bottom, I walk along and under caves of eroding limestone. The Mediterranean views are interrupted only by paper-white sails of passing schooners. The water is luminous.

The downside of King Aragon’s arduous steps is as clear as the sea. What goes down must come up. I curse you, King Aragon. My quads still hurt.

PATRIMONIO

Patrimonio is considered Corsica’s best-known wine region. Our drive through Patrimonio reveals patterns of terraced vineyards in the foreground and Saint Florent Bay in the background. It’s a spectacular setting to sample the wines of the region. As an added bonus, it requires no death-defying roads.

We visit Domaine Leccia and Orenga de Gaffory wineries. Since I’m the only one in my family who enjoys wine tasting, I’m forced to drink at record speed. Corsicans do nothing at record speed except drive. Needless to say, I do nothing to alter American stereotypes. I hope the other three Americans in Corsica are better behaved.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Hilltop Villages

While visiting Corsica’s numerous hilltop villages, we hear pealing church bells celebrating a local wedding. We sit on lively piazzas with glasses of cloudy Pastis—a centuries-old pastime. Visiting these villages is another highlight of our Corsica travels.

Learn about private wine-tasting tours near Calvi. Click here!

NONZA

Nonza is located along another sea cliff wall. This time on the west coast of Cap Corse. Nonza is so tiny that by the time we realize we’ve reached it, we’ve passed it. My husband does an 18-point K-turn and finds a place to park. I make a mental note that arguing while driving has surpassed arguing while hiking.

The village centers around the 16th-century church of Saint-Julie. Its bright orange facade stands out against the village’s otherwise white-washed, ancient buildings. Wild oleander is in bloom, in colors to inspire Nars’ next lip gloss shades.

We have lunch at La Sassa, an outdoor-only restaurant with a low-key party vibe and Michelin-worthy food. It is 160 meters above the beach and overhangs the sea.

White-capped waves swirl below, and the Genoese Tower of Nonza soars above—an unparalleled lunch setting, indeed.

Reservations are a must at La Sassa. I’m not proud to admit it, but I felt smug watching hungry onlookers envy my tuna tartare.

CORTE

Corte lies deep in the mountainous interior of the island. The air smells of pine, the humidity is low, and rivers and waterfalls rumble gently in the distance.

Although crowded, the town of Corte feels untouched by mainstream tourism. The piazza overflows with locals. A musician croons. I notice people sitting on windowsills above—catching notes as they rise into the sky. I capture a snapshot of Corsican life in my mind rather than with my camera.

Corte steals my heart in the subtlest ways, with its hidden pottery studios, produce markets, and a spectacular citadel piercing the sky. When I return home, I’ll remember these moments—the simplicity and authenticity—and I’ll miss them.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

OLETTA

Oletta is the opposite of the lively and musical Corte. It’s eerily quiet, with jagged stone steps and paths that weave intricately around the village. Flowers and vines climb crumbling stone walls and overflow from ceramic pots. How they grow is a mystery, as Oletta’s narrow, sleepy streets hardly allow for sunlight to reach them.

One evening, we dine in the village, and the residents magically appear—playing cards, laughing, and drinking. Where have they been hiding?

We sit outdoors at A Forge, a restaurant overlooking the valley. By the time we head back to our hotel, everyone has disappeared, and the town is silent again.

Corsica Travels: Beaches

The beaches surrounding Corsica range from nearly deserted, boat-access only to restaurant-lined with a party vibe. For the sake of keeping my audience engaged (are you still with me?), two of many standouts follow.

THE LAVEZZI ISLANDS ARCHIPELAGO

The Lavezzi Islands Archipelago, in southern Corsica, is just a few miles from Bonifacio’s formidable limestone walls. Accessible only by boat, it’s an aquatic playground for divers and snorkelers alike.

Some islands are quiet, with gigantic granite boulders that break the water’s glassy surface. Coral reefs are chock full of colorful schools of fish.

Other islands are a party on the sea with tranquil, waist-deep water. This creates a pop-up pool party atmosphere that is impossible not to enjoy. Think bikini-clad (and yikes, Speed-O-clad) people dancing on boats, in-water volleyball games, and colorful inflatable rafts floating on the placid Mediterranean Sea.

Discover the Lavezzi islands and the cliffs of Bonifacio by boat! Click her e.

AGRIATES DESERT

The Agriates Desert, in Northern Corsica, is a barren and dry coastline mainly accessible by boat. Any day in Corsica that doesn’t require driving is my kind of day.

But calling this 40km stretch of protected land a desert is misleading. The Agriates Desert is home to Corsica’s most remote beaches: Windswept, scrub-covered, wild, and sun-scorched.

Windex-colored waters, pale limestone boulders, and wide stretches of golden sand make this part of the Corsican coast so appealing. The air is heavy with history and the scent of the island’s ubiquitous maquis.

Maquis is a scrubby, untamed shrub that covers much of Corsica’s hills. Its scent combines at least nine herbs, including eucalyptus, juniper, rosemary, and heather. The scent is so popular that the famous French perfumery Diptique makes a maquis-scented candle. For $72, I can relive my Corsica memories from home.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Corsica Travels: Retreats and Hotels

Each of our three accommodations in Corsica is equally enchanting—from riverside retreats to hilltop and beachside boutique hotels. When I ask the kids which place is their favorite, they can’t decide. Well done, me.

LES BERGERIES DE PALOMBAGGIA

Les Bergeries de Palombaggia, in Porto-Vecchio, is a Relais & Chateaux property seven miles from Sardinia. This Italian island’s silhouette provides a never-ending and beautiful backdrop to our stay. Grazie, Italia.

Life at Les Bergeries centers around its inviting infinity-edged pool. The views at sunset, when the sky mirrors the sea, are especially spectacular. Palombaggia Beach is a short, convenient, and pretty walk from the hotel.

The sea air is filled with the aromatic herbs of the maquis. Les Bergeries’ old terra cotta roof tiles have faded to rich hues of sienna and mocha. I spot olive trees with silvery sage leaves and vibrant green umbrella pines. Les Bergeries’ color palette is as French as it gets. The overall vibe is ‘low-key fancy’—my favorite kind.

HIGHLIGHTS Breakfast with locally made jams, crêpes, brioches, and traditional Fiodone (Corsican cheesecake) / La Table de Mina’s poolside dining patio at sunset / Suites with hydrangea-filled balconies overlooking the pool and sea

Check Availability at Les Bergeries de Palambaggia here

HOTEL DOMINIQUE COLONNA

Dominique Colonna, in Corte, is a riverside boutique hotel. Inspired by nature, its charm lies in sheer simplicity. Intentionally spartan in design, the rooms are divine, with small balconies facing the river.

The hotel’s low-impact exterior respectfully sits within the dramatic mountainous scenery. Dominique Colonna is a sublime spot from which we launch our Haut-Corse adventures. But the grounds are so welcoming and intimate that I’m hard-pressed to leave it each day.

HIGHLIGHTS Impeccably-maintained Mediterranean gardens that showcase dwarf olive trees, climbing white jasmine, and Florentine cypresses / The tiered riverside terrace for a breakfast of housemade granolas and local honey / A private massage cube made of wood and glass, nestled in the woods by the pool

Check Availability at Hotel Dominique Colonna here

AETHOS U PALAZZU SERENU

U Palazzu Serenu, in Oletta, was once a 17th-century palace. After a complete restoration, this nine-room hotel is now basking in its original glory. This classic, austere, contemporary boutique hotel has rooms and common spaces designed in layers of white.

Our suite’s white-louvered windows have all-encompassing views of vineyards and Saint Florent Bay. Recycled wood, museum-worthy art, and artfully chosen coffee table books make the rooms feel personal and homey.

U Palazzu Serenu’s unique selling point is its secret access to Oletta. A creaky back gate hidden behind the pool’s tiered lounging area allows me to explore Oletta whenever I want. I go each day, searching for signs of life. Mainly, I see feral cats.

HIGHLIGHTS The small, sheltered dining space by the pool is by reservation only. It serves ‘Italian classics with a Corsican twist.’ The artwork and sculptures are by renowned artists such as Paul de Pignol, Wendy Wischer, and Udo Nöger. The pool. Views from the pool. Drinks at the pool.

In Corsica, All’s Well That Ends Well

It’s pretty hard not to fall for Corsica. Even if that means intentionally falling from a 30-foot granite ledge into a gurgling river. I placed my trust in this rugged, craggy, and far-flung island. I was ever-rewarded.

The beauty of Corsica is in the adventures, but it’s also in the details—the colorful facade of a hilltop church against emerald green mountains. Wild oleander poking through an ancient stone wall beside an abandoned Genoese tower. A pottery studio found only by following wooden signs through a maze-like village. Wild pigs grazing on the side of the road.

As I said, it’s hard not to fall for Corsica. Just don’t forget to project outwards. You won’t regret it.

Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)

Ready to travel—but can’t find the time to plan?

Anyone can Google a destination, but finding the right sources, the hidden gems, the places worth your time—well, that’s an art that takes time. I’ll cut through the noise, saving you from hours of searching in the wrong places. Each of my recommendations is researched with your specific trip in mind.

After visiting 70 countries on 7 continents, I know how overwhelming travel planning can be.

But I also know how to make it easy. And exciting. And stress-free.

Click here to learn more about Jamie Edwards Travel Coaching

My research. Your adventure.

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

May 10, 2024
In 1950, A Party Started At Eden Rock St. Barths. It’s Still Going.

I walk through the airport’s cool, frosted glass doors. Salt-tinged air warms my face. Out here, the party’s in full swing. People gather with glasses in hand. Bottles of Chassagne-Montrachet chill in buckets of ice at their feet. Bursts of laughter radiate from the well-heeled crowd as a rainbow assortment of Minis and Mokes whizzes behind them. It feels like happy hour on a breezy NYC rooftop, not airport arrivals.

I scan the crowd. Our villa manager is easy to spot. He’s wearing tell-tale Eden Rock red. Fred greets us as if we’re old friends. ‘Are you ready?’ he asks with a cheeky grin. It’s unclear what he means by ‘ready.’ But whatever it is, we unanimously agree that we are.

Eden Rock St. Barths—allons-y!

Eden Rock is Rooted in 1950s Glamour

Let’s back up a few decades to set the scene. In the early 1950s, French aviator and adventurer Rémy de Haenen built a hotel on a rocky promontory overlooking a secluded turquoise bay in St. Barths. Rémy dreamed his hotel would become a destination for the rich and famous. It didn’t take long for him to get his wish. Greta Garbo, Howard Hughes, and other celebrities soon christened red-roofed Eden Rock their Caribbean hideaway.

In 1995, Jane and David Matthews purchased Eden Rock from de Haenen. As the story goes, the Matthews (aka Pippa Middleton’s in-laws) sailed to the island and became immediately smitten. Furthering Rémy’s flair for all things fabulous, the Matthews added clifftop cottages and palatial suites, catapulting Eden Rock St. Barths into one of the world’s leading hotels.

Two decades later, the Matthews partnered with Oetker Collection to manage the property, further elevating its already high standards of luxury. Today, one could just as quickly spot a rockstar or an NFL quarterback sitting beside an aging politician or a teenage influencer.

Not a rock star? ‘So what?’ There’s room (and rooms) in St. Barths for all. But the glamour of this chic French island comes at a price—especially if the Eden Rock Hotel or one of its 150 private villas are involved.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

The Arrival

En route to our hilltop home away from home, a prop plane passes overhead. And by overhead, I mean I can practically touch it. We navigate a small roundabout where people gather with iPhones shooting video—a popular island activity. In the near distance, the Eden Rock Hotel comes into view. A departing plane is so close to the water it nearly takes the floppy hat off a sunbather.

There are many hotels on St. Barths with dramatic views. But only at Eden Rock can one watch charter planes arrive and depart from the comfort of a cushy sunlounger. Anywhere else, a hotel this close to the runway would be a dealbreaker vacation-wise. Leave it to the French to flip the script. The thrilling take-offs and landings are part of the island’s joie de vivre.

Gray Malin’s ‘The Arrival’

At 2,100 feet long, the runway on St. Barths is one of the world’s shortest, so only small planes can land. Therefore, most people (aside from those who fly private) connect through a neighboring island, usually St. Maarten or Puerto Rico.

To put an exclamation point on this long narrative about a short runway, fine-art photographer Gray Malin chose this very subject for his famous à la plage series. ‘The Arrival’ is one of his best-selling prints, no doubt adorning living room walls from Paris to LA.

The Eden Rock Bubble

It’s easy to get caught up in the Eden Rock bubble. Everyone in it looks so glamorous. Women wear gem-toned Missoni kaftans with oversized woven hats. Men don crisp white linen shirts, pastel-colored shorts, and Italian espadrilles. Their sunkissed kids trail behind them on their way to the Sand Bar for truffle-topped pizzas. It’s island eye candy all around.

The Eden Rock bubble has its own boutique. Did you forget that cute boho dress you planned to wear to Bagatelle? It’s Zimmermann’s crochet wrap to the rescue. Suddenly desperate for a tote that mirrors the bay’s exact shade of blue? Goyard’s Turquoise St. Louis bag with matching beach towel has you covered.

Blue, white, and red may be sewn into the island’s fabric, but the labels are decidedly Off White and Orlebar Brown.

Eden Rock St. Barths, The Hotel

In September 2017, the Eden Rock Hotel suffered extensive damage from Hurricane Irma. By 2019, it had reopened its welcoming red doors to guests eager to reclaim paradise. Eden Rock returned to its former glory with 37 rooms, a Jean-George Vongerichten restaurant, a new world-class spa, and an attentive and absurdly attractive staff of over 200 strong.

Other hotel highlights include the British-Colonial-style Rémy Bar, on-beach spa treatments, professional sunscreen attendants (not a typo), and a roving frosé trolley. Because mon dieu!—at these rates, no one should have to leave their sunlounger for a glass of Whispering Angel.

PC: Eden Rock

Incredibly, all 37 rooms and suites at Eden Rock are individually curated. Jane Matthews lovingly designed them, showcasing local and international artwork at every turn. Some rooms are on the beach, and others are on its famous rocks. All are spectacular.

Inspired by a schooner, the Captain’s Room has brass portholes, maritime leather seats, and a private pool. Spencer’s Room is perched on the face of the rock and pays homage to Africa with eclectic carved wooden masks, woven rugs, and a regal four-poster bed. Then there’s the Pippa, the Garbo, and the Howard Hughes. How to choose? A champagne problem, indeed.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

PC: Eden Rock

Villa Like a Rockstar

There isn’t a superlative that hasn’t been used to describe the Eden Rock Hotel. This puts me at a loss for words to describe their most extravagant villa. At 17,000 square feet, Villa Rockstar is called ‘a two hundred million dollar yacht on land.’ Between us, that isn’t much of a selling point. I’d rent a yacht if I wanted to be on a yacht. But who am I to question the marketing team of one of the leading hotels in the world?

Villa Rockstar has everything you could ever need and just as many things you don’t. The six-bedroom villa’s secluded location lies behind 10-foot walls on St. Jean’s beach. One of the many oversized bathrooms is circular and tiled in (wait for it) white gold. Rockstar has a dedicated chef and butler service around the clock, a 20-meter heated pool, and a jacuzzi. According to the website, Villa Rockstar also has a ‘basement full of surprises.’

PC: Eden Rock

Other amenities include daily breakfast delivery, a fully-equipped techno-gym, a multi-car-filled garage, a private business office, and a custom-designed Italian kitchen. While I don’t know who is driving, cooking, working, or exercising when they visit Villa Rockstar, I would trade it all for breakfast delivery. The brioche at Eden Rock is no joke.

The website also ensures guests that ‘privacy and discretion’ are Villa Rockstar’s watch words. Is that the same thing as safe words? Safe words aren’t just for the bedroom anymore. Does this have anything to do with the surprises in the basement? Grab eleven of your closest friends and party like a rockstar at Villa Rockstar. When you discover what’s hidden in the basement, please share.

Villa Neo and Eden Rock’s 148 Other Villas

Villa Rockstar notwithstanding, Eden Rock has private villas across the island for (nearly) all budgets. Eden Rock conveniently divides its villa portfolio among four categories: Classic, Deluxe, Prestige, and Ultraluxe. If you think classic is code for inexpensive, you’d be incorrect. Nothing is inexpensive on St. Barths. Instead, think of classic as code for least expensive. And even then, prepare for sticker shock.

Neo is a six-bedroom supermodern ultraluxe villa. It has glass staircases, glass walls, and glass sculptures. The pool spans the length of the villa and towers high above St. Jean’s beach. Neo’s outside space is sprawling with double-bed sunloungers and wide umbrellas.

Some bathrooms have deep soaking tubs (alas, none tiled in white gold) and spacious balconies. The kitchen is not ornamental. Our chef, Eric, whips up fabulous French meals there every day. That we’re spoiled is evident.

Breakfast is a daily delight—and more decadent with each passing morning. Airy crépes on Monday, Belgian waffles with berries on Tuesday, fluffy frittatas on Wednesday… you get the idea. That every meal Eric creates comes with baguettes, brioches, and croissants does nothing to help our waistlines. We waddle to the Eden Rock boutique to buy bigger kaftans.

After a week of fantastic in-villa meals, Eric tells us he’s never seen a group consume so much bread. We pat our bellies proudly and take it as a compliment—though I’m pretty sure it isn’t.

Dining Beyond the Bubble

With all the French carbohydrates one could desire, you may question why we’d ever leave the ~~bubble~~ villa. St. Barths has a world-class dining scene, which always includes incredible people-watching in chic settings with DJs and live music. So get out, we do, and it’s worth it.

Three standout meals are Sella, Bagatelle, and Nikki Beach. Each restaurant incorporates a party element to accompany the food and wine. At Sella, Jerusalem-born, Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit serves Middle Eastern cuisine in an amber-infused, low-lit waterfront setting. The DJ’s hypnotic Arabic music fuses intricate melodies and rhythmic patterns with charred meats and vegetables. We all love it.

Bagatelle starts typically enough—with a convivial dinner party vibe. But by the time the appetizers arrived, the DJ had ratcheted up the music so loud that I couldn’t hear my husband. As the entrées appeared, guests and servers started dancing.

Then, models began weaving around the dancers in cute boho dresses. Champagne corks spiral through the air. John Legend is singing Happy Birthday. Bagatelle is not a restaurant; it’s a bar mitzvah.

Just Another Sunday at Nikki Beach

Nikki Beach deserves a post of its own. And maybe one day, when strapped for content, I’ll write it. Until then, believe me when I say a trip to St. Barths without Sunday brunch at Nikki Beach is a big mistake.

Sundays at Nikki Beach are legendary in St. Barths. It’s a Caribbean darty (to use my least favorite word but most favorite concept). The great thing about a daytime party is that you can have fun whether you are 8, 18, or 88. And at Nikki Beach, ‘fun’ could mean a sparkler-topped bottle of Veuve Clicquot, a hot French saxophonist dancing on your table, or a gladiator towing a sorority girl around on a chariot. On our Sunday, fun included all of the above.

Colorful sushi boats filled with seared ahi tuna, red caviar-topped salmon, and pink ebi sail around the room. As the music tempo increases, the crowd rises to the occasion (literally and figuratively). People kick off their shoes and dance like no one is watching. Although, of course, everyone is. We order a bottle of Dom and go for it. Nikki Beach is the place to splurge on the most splurge-worthy island in the Caribbean.

“Are You Ready?”

I think back to Fred’s cheeky grin seven days ago. I’m sure he knew we’d need a vacation to recover from our vacation. I’m sure he knew we’d have baguette withdrawal, suffer from severe sleep deficit, and have hearing loss in one, if not both, ears. After so many years tending to guests’ needs in the Eden Rock bubble, he’s seen it all. No wonder he was smiling.

At the airport, newly arriving guests exit as I enter the frosted glass doors. Salt-tinged air warms their faces. I take one last glance behind me. I see signature Eden Rock red shirts and bottles of ice-cold Chablis. Glasses clink. Laughter fills the air. A rainbow assortment of Minis and Mokes whizzes by on the street.

In St. Barth’s, the party never ends.

Click Here for my Free St. Barths Hot Sheet

April 5, 2024
Taking on the Medina, and More—What To Do In Marrakech

What To Do In Marrakech, A Guide /

Were it up to me, The Caliph’s House by Tahir Shah would be required reading for anyone traveling to Morocco. Without reading this candidly funny novel, I would’ve been confused, baffled, and bewildered during our visit to Marrakech.

After spontaneously moving his family to Morocco from the UK, Shah buys a home—the Caliph’s House —and begins the arduous task of renovating it. At the same time, he’s attempting to rebuild his family’s lives in a foreign country. They learn all too quickly that nothing in Morocco goes exactly as planned and never in a time frame that makes outward sense.

Rational and irrational thinking collide in a whimsical and often unbelievable manner. I laughed out loud throughout the book, loving the effervescent and colorful prose.

Magical Arrivals

Shah’s story lingers in my mind as we exit the doors of Marrakech Airport, a piece of jaw-dropping architecture worth a visit in its own right. Our task? To locate our hotel sign among the several hundred Moroccan taxi and limo drivers. I think the logo, an iconic fan, should be pretty easy to spot.

My husband and I take several loops of the crowd together. Then, we split up and took a few solo loops. No sign. No driver. Eventually, we stand at the center of the crowd, which forms a circle around us—a five-minute lapse. Then a strange thing appears on my left—a very large sign on a very tall stick with a very black fan logo. Our driver has materialized, seemingly out of thin air.

I ask him where he’s been all this time. With absolute surprise and genuine sincerity, he replies, ‘Madame! But I have been standing right here the whole time!” My husband and I look at each other in disbelief. Then I remembered Shah’s story and relaxed. There’s no point in arguing with him. He’s been here the whole time, of course. We must have overlooked him. So begins our journey in Marrakech.

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What To Do In Marrakech: Get Lost In The Souks

I have a list of adjectives that illustrate Marrakech—vibrant, eclectic, bustling, electric. However, the buzzy current of the Berber Empire is much more than what is seen on the surface. So what do we do during our week ahead in this energized city?

First up is the Medina—the old walled medieval part of town. The Medina is a dense maze of Moroccan capitalism with a photo op at every turn. I learned that the souks (markets) are not solely for souvenir shopping. As I wander the narrow passageways, I see layers of activity.

I stumble upon an entire alley of shoemakers. Each stall was about as wide as the shoemaker himself. In a series of memorized movements, he hammers, cuts, and then casually tosses the leather soles into a pile of identical soles. Another alley has lantern makers. The artisans punch through thin copper to create delicate pieces as they’ve likely been doing for a century. While it looks like a performance for tourists, it’s simply everyday life.



What To Do In Marrakech: Hire A Guide

We hire a private guide, knowing he will take us to his brother’s uncle’s best friend’s rug shop. His predictability makes me smile. Yet, how would we see market life in full swing without him? The haggling and negotiating. The rug seller’s touristy ceremonial show, with steaming hot mint tea. We’re told to go back the next day without a guide if we find something we’d like to buy. We will likely get a better price since no commissions will need to be paid—an insider tip.



Our guide steers us towards beautiful architectural gems, including the ornate Bahia Palace. He secures a reservation at a lively rooftop restaurant and gives us enough sense of local history that we aren’t walking nose-deep in our guidebook.

We buy local argan oil from sellers promising eternal youth and an end to age spots and smell colorful spices waft through the air. Snake charmers fleece us after draping cobras around our necks, refusing to remove them until a suitable price is paid. We love every minute of the chaos (even the snakes) and give props to his entrepreneurial skills.

What To Do In Marrakech: Eat Above The Markets

Restaurant Nomad’s entrance is in the Medina’s dark, narrow corridor. We climb an equally dark, narrow staircase, wondering if this is really where we want to have lunch. We reach a door and then immediately shield our eyes. The sun is high in the sky above us on Nomad’s exposed rooftop patio overlooking the Medina.

We are handed straw hats to deter the sun and settle into our seats as if on cue. We observe the markets from above and feel fortunate to have secured such a prime spot to eat. The food was classic Moroccan, with mezze platters and yogurts, house-marinated olives, tagines, and traditional briouat (savory puff pastry filled with meat, cheese, lemon, and pepper). A long, leisurely lunch ensues.

Terrasse des Epices

And while we love Nomad, we enjoy the next day’s rooftop lunch even more. Terrasse des Epices is a hot lunch ticket, with crowds from morning until night. Terrasse des Epices has sheltered alcoves to sit and absorb the convivial scene. The clientele is a mix of families and hipster tourists. A Moroccan DJ from Essaouira is set up in the middle of it all, dancing and having the time of his life.

Our DJ doesn’t miss a beat and plays new remixes of old classics that inspire even the 40-somethings on the terrace. No one looks like they have any desire to leave. This may be partially because Terrasse des Epices is one of the only restaurants within the Medina walls to serve alcohol. We order a bottle of rosé and stay put for a while.

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What To Do In Marrakech: Stay At The Mandarin Oriental

When traveling a city, we typically spend the morning wandering and sightseeing, have lunch, and then head back to our hotel to lounge for the afternoon. We chose the Mandarin Oriental, 10 minutes from the city center. It’s an enormous and tropical property, and we feel far from the hustle of town. The hotel has 54 stand-alone private villas, most with private pools in walled courtyards.

The entire property is alive, with rose bushes in full bloom. 100,000 fragrant roses are spread over 20 hectares, and we admire them one afternoon via the hotel’s complimentary bikes. Bougainvillea, golden barrel cacti, climbing vines, and mature olive trees dot the landscape.—an explosion of flora.

The hotel design is modern Moroccan decor: bold, graphic lines, black and white marble, tall, narrow archways, and shallow inner courtyard pools.



What To Do In Marrakech: Don’t Leave The Room

Our room feels like a home—but not my home, mind you. It has a living area with a daybed and a bar. A platform bed in the master suite looks squarely onto a long rectangular pool. The oversized bathroom has a personal hammam-style shower and a deep stand-alone tub.

The outside space also boasts a daybed, an outdoor kitchen, and a beautiful fireplace the staff will light upon request. It’s a challenge to pull ourselves away for dinner.

What To Do In Marrakech: Dine at Al Fassia

Another Caliph’s House moment presents itself at dinner. I’d made a few early reservations, and Al Fassia, an all-women-run restaurant, was high on my list. I know there are two locations, so I’m sure to be clear about the location we would like to go. Fifteen minutes later, we are dropped off at Al Fassia.

It’s a tranquil oasis—lush, romantic gardens and outdoor nooks. We walk in and give our name only to discover, you guessed it, we are at the wrong Al Fassia. And no, this location has no available tables this evening.

We call another taxi and head to the other Al Fassia. The food is good, but the first Al Fassia would have been a better choice, as it was in a less urban environment—another exercise in patience in the frenetic world of Marrakech.

What To Do In Marrakech: Shop and Haggle

The following day, we shop. We aimlessly wander the ancient passageways, picking up souvenirs for our families at home. While waiting for my friend to pay at a nearby stall, I stand against a wall to take in the whirlwind of market life. Perhaps, only because I’m not moving do I notice an interesting shop set further back from the others.

I walk into a treasure trove of beautifully curated art pieces, ceramics, textiles, furniture, and rugs. Old and new, Moroccan and Persian—it’s a visual explosion. Hakim is the owner, and his warm and friendly manner entertains us as we shop. Hakim prepares tea for us. It has thick bundles of mint leaves overflowing from colorful rattan-wrapped glasses. It’s a welcome respite from the bustle of the souks.

Click here for a self-guided tour of the souks! The best way to uncover the Medina’s secrets!

A Story of Two Paintings Bought Six Years Apart

Hakim’s hidden shop is called La Porte d’Or. His clientele includes interior designers, politicians, and celebrities who seek him out from across the globe.

My husband and I immediately zero in on a piece of art—a mixed-media piece with old, sepia-tinged pages floating amidst calligraphic Arabic typography. As is expected, we haggle and get to a price we can all live with. Then, I notice another piece by the same artist—the perfect companion to the one we are about to buy. I ask Hakim for the price, and he says it’s not for sale. I smirk. He’s kidding, of course; isn’t everything for sale here?

But Hakim holds firm, and we walk out with just one piece of art. For years after, Daniel and I have always wondered about that piece and why he wouldn’t sell it to us.

Scrolling Instagram six years later, I notice a friend from New York is in Marrakech on vacation. I DM him a shortlist of must-see spots, including Le Porte D’Or. I joke that if he sees Hakim, to tell him I’ve never forgotten about the artwork he refused to sell.

Within the hour, my friend is not only in the shop but has found our long-lost piece of art. After some haggling, a WhatsApp exchange, and a wire transfer, the art we’d fallen in love with in 2018 is bound for DC. I’m again reminded of the whimsy and serendipity of The Caliph’s House. The magic of Marrakech can’t be underestimated.



What To Do In Marrakech: ‘Enjoy’ A Hammam Experience

We’re told not to miss a hammam treatment (a traditional Moroccan cleansing and bathing ritual). A friend had recommended traveling to the spa at The Royal Mansour, although most hotel spas offer the hammam treatment.

If Marrakech is a city of high-density, magnetic, and outrageous color, then the spa at the Royal Mansour is quite positively the total absence of it.

I step through a dark, thick, wooden doorway and enter a world of double-height glass cathedral ceilings and white roses—set within a room of white wrought-iron latticework. It’s a stark contrast to the vibrancy of life outside. Then, I’m led to a lounge with cushy daybeds where I await my therapist.

The Royal Treatment

The treatment itself leaves my skin feeling like a newborn baby. First, I lay on a hot slab of marble where the therapist scrubs off layers of unwanted skin with an abrasive Kessa mitt. Next, warm water is poured (actually thrown) all over me.

A massage with various therapeutic oils is next, followed by an eye-popping cold water plunge that brings me back to reality. I’ll admit, it’s an unusual way to get pampered. Yet, I felt shockingly invigorated. The treatment awakens senses I didn’t even know I had.

The Magic of Marrakech

Marrakech is a city of layers, each revealing something unique and mesmerizing. I realize I’ve only just begun to scratch the surface. In hindsight, I wish I’d stopped more often to absorb it. Marrakech was constantly in motion, and I was too often caught in the wave.

Tahir Shah and his family had a year in Morocco to discover the culture, explore the country, and immerse themselves in the local traditions. We have two weeks. But I thank Shah for preparing us for the time we did have there through humor, candor, and wit. For allowing me to laugh things off that would have otherwise frustrated me.

Marrakech is a city to unwrap, like a treasure. Perhaps one day, I will have another chance to explore it.

Book It:

The Caliph’s House charts a year’s journey of Tahir Shah and his family. They uproot their lives by leaving dreary London for Casablanca’s colorful, captivating world. Funny, candid, and insightful, I couldn’t have enjoyed my trip to Morocco nearly as much if I hadn’t read this memoir first.

Bonus: Take On The Countryside

The scenic Atlas Mountains are only an hour outside of Marrakech. What better way to combine a little countryside with our busy city experience? Our next stop? The decadent and low-key Kasbah Bab Ourika. Follow me there.

(Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.)

March 3, 2024
Is Amangani the Best Lodge in Jackson Hole?

We were well on our way to Amangani when I saw ‘WOAH’ on a red octagonal sign that would normally read ‘STOP.’ We’d been in Jackson Hole for a total of 30 minutes. Little did we know that ‘Woah!’ would become the buzzword of this trip among the Teton mountains. Amangani, here we come.

Nerves of Steel, in Jackson Hole

There have been precious few trips where wildlife has played a central role in our experience. Safari in Botswana was certainly one of them, and gorilla tracking in Uganda was another. Closer to home, but no less adventurous, was Jackson Hole, Wyoming. The impetus of the trip was three days of hiking in Jackson Hole’s Teton Mountain Range, planned by my husband, Daniel. I was nervous, I’ll admit now. Not only nervous the hiking would get the best of me physically, but the bears. I was nervous about the bears.

Those who have grown up in the West might find my fears amusing. As a former New Yorker, I was never afraid of being mugged or subway rats—but bears were another story. Being born and raised in the metropolitan northeast, where my most grizzly encounters were with the squeegee guys at the Lincoln Tunnel, the West meant ‘wild’. Frankly, I wasn’t sure I was cut out for it.

Softening the blow, my husband cushioned the trip by booking Amangani. Having spent time at Amangiri in Utah a few years ago, we knew we were in for a decadent experience.

Bear Spray Rentals, in Jackson Hole

After touching down at Jackson Hole Airport, we headed to baggage claim. At the carousel, I spotted a kiosk called ‘Bear Spray Rentals.’ What a clever name for a car rental service, I thought. It took another beat to register that the kiosk was actually renting bear spray. Did I mention that I spent all my adult life in big cities?

According to the attendant, bear spray is rarely used in Jackson Hole, as the bears want to hang out with us about as much as we do with them. That said, I rented a can of bear insurance and went on my merry way.

As a barometer for the kind of scenery we were in for, I needed only to look out the car window. If it’s this scenic at the airport in Jackson Hole, we were in for something pretty spectacular. The airport was named a national monument in 1943 and merged with Grand Teton National Park a few years later. I also discovered that the airport is ‘a popular mating ground for the sage grouse.’ Good local knowledge. I was fitting in already.

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At Amangani, it’s love at first WOAH!

Amangani is low-profile and high-impact, an architectural style we have noticed at many Aman properties. Perched upon a hilltop, with illustrative snow-capped mountain views in the distance (even in July) and green pastures of cows below, Amangani’s vibe is modern rustic lodge-chic. The exterior is a lovely combination of redwood and stone and sits ever-so-comfortably in its surroundings.

A small pond on the grounds, which later became a never-ending photo op, was a flourish on the bucolic scene. It acted as a backdrop to Jackson Hole’s glorious Grand Teton mountain range photos that changed with the light and mirrored the cloud formations that rolled past throughout the day. I was obsessively drawn to this spot, as is clearly evident from the absurd number of photos I took there.

Settling into Amangani

Upon entering Amangani, which means ‘peaceful home’, a grand, sweeping staircase welcomed us. The staircase led to a multi-level windowed wall that formally introduced us to the landscape. Hello, Tetons!

There were plenty of spaces to find quiet at Amangani. Comfy chairs were placed to maximize the panorama of the Snake River Valley, whether in the lounge, the airy central sitting area, or on our private room balcony. Native American touches, oversized sepia-tinted wildlife photography, painted cowhides, and textiles were displayed. Everything was placed with a designer’s touch.

A room for all seasons at Amangani

As tempting as it was to spend all of our time outside in Jackson Hole, the rooms at Amangani encouraged us to stay in. Being an all-season destination, the rooms at Amangani had as much to offer comfort-wise as we could wish for.

A raw-cut stone fireplace sat in the corner. The room’s centerpiece was a low platform bed, donned with crisp, white linens and a wooden headboard that went from floor to ceiling and continued its design onto the ceiling itself. Natural materials in shades of gray, ecru, and soft faux fur accents completed the ambient scene.

Were it not for the showstopper of a pool and the hiking ahead, I would have been hard-pressed to leave the walls of the lodge and head out into Jackson Hole at all.

To infinity and beyond, at Amangani

One of the hotel’s unique selling points was its nearly 400-square-foot heated outdoor infinity pool. The rectangular, blue-toned, mosaic-tiled pool spanned the entire length of the main lodge. It offered uninterrupted mountain views. The icing on the cake was the square, sunken hot tub that sat center stage along the pool’s top edge. Its idyllic location begged us to enjoy a bottle of champagne there.

The row of poolside loungers was a magical spot from which to watch the layers of blue sky evolve throughout the afternoon. Jackson’s jagged Teton mountains cut into the sky in the distance, and puffy cloud formations floated effortlessly in the foreground.

In Jackson Hole, it’s all about the views

A rickety wooden fence edged the perimeter. Beyond that, a steep slope led towards green fields and cow pastures. From our aquatic perch, the cows looked no bigger than ants in the Snake River Valley, and we dreamily watched them migrate across the pasture each day post-hike. My legs were rendered useless by then, and I was very happy to not have to use them for the remainder of the day.

The air was cool and dry. I watched red-tailed hawks crisscross the sky over our heads. An idyllic scene.

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Hiking Jackson Hole’s Cascade Mountain

At 6am, our alarm sounded. This was not my idea of a vacation. Although I knew that once I got going and had some caffeine, I’d be happy to start the morning. Daniel is obsessed with avoiding crowds. He hates parades, auctions, big parties, and just about any situation where he might have to converse with strangers. Hence, the early start time. I, on the other hand, am obsessed with avoiding bears and moose, and I’m told they like to get a jump start on their day around the same time.

According to our guidebook, Jackson Hole’s Cascade Canyon hike is majestic, adorned with a canopy of Douglas firs, sheer canyon walls, and Teton mountain views. However, it warned of the huckleberry bushes along the way that attract grizzlies. In this case, being first on the trail meant being first to greet the hungry huckleberry eaters. I took a long, deep breath, and we set off.

Grand Teton and Jenny Lake

Crossing Jenny Lake to get to the trailhead made the early wake-up worthwhile. The lake was flat and serene, mirroring the mountains and clouds, undulating ripples for as far as I could see. I quickly noticed that the few other passengers on the boat had bells, music, and whistles, to detract wildlife. We had nothing, so were told to keep up a steady, and loud conversation. Who has six hours of steady conversation after 17 years of marriage?

Noisy, gushing waterfalls, wooden footbridges, and enormous pines met us as we started our ascent. It couldn’t have been more beautiful and peaceful, especially since no one else was on the trail. We made it up the first steep pass to Inspiration Point, which offered uninterrupted views of Jenny Lake.

Finding our stride in Jackson Hole

We saw signs of bears, like tree trunks that had been used for sharpening claws, but thankfully, no actual bears. Daniel walked ahead carrying the bear spray, which was a clever ploy to get me to keep up with his faster pace. The 13.6-mile round-trip journey took us through spots called Paintbrush Divide and Hidden Falls, which looked as illustrative as their names implied. Birds of prey glided in the breeze overhead.

Wyoming’s snow-capped Grand Teton welcomed us in the distance like a beacon. I might have smirked more than once on our hike back towards the lake as we passed hikers starting their climb as we finished ours. Thank you, Daniel.

Once again, my weary legs earned the right to sit at the pool’s edge and revel in the morning’s accomplishment, book in one hand, a refreshing drink in the other. With rewards like this, I could certainly get used to hiking.

Eat and drink, Amangani and beyond

While the town of Jackson Hole and Teton Village was only a fifteen-minute drive from the resort, we ended up going out for dinner only twice in five nights. It was too hard to leave the nest after a day of hiking and sun-soaking.

The dining room at the Amangani Lodge was ambient and moody, with a menu with enough variety to satisfy us for three dinners. As you might imagine, the windows played a large role in the setting, and it was hard to concentrate on anything when the views were as captivating as the Teton mountain range.

Jackson Hole’s Snake River Grill

One of our two dinners out in Jackson Hole was at the highly recommended Snake River Grill. We wondered if it could live up to the hype, as everyone I had spoken to about Jackson had waxed lyrical about it. The simple log cabin decor somewhat belies the elegance of the food. We were impressed from the first bite.

The menu at Snake River Grill was bold, with hearty meats like elk, beef cheeks, and pork shank. It also catered to the pescatarian and vegetarian, with options like a roasted cauliflower steak and sea bass. As has become a habit, when I am fully enthralled with a meal, I forget to take photos. I have since become a master at ‘mostly-eaten’ food photography. Take my word for it: the food looked appetizing when it arrived.

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Conquering Jackson Hole’s Delta Lake

The next morning came a little too soon, especially after a stomach full of elk, but I rallied, remembering the views and the scenery, forgetting, for a moment, about the bears. Daniel told me that we were going to hike to Delta Lake, a glacial lake at the base of Grand Teton.

What he didn’t tell me was that to access this hidden gem, we needed to take unofficial, unmaintained trails, navigate several steep boulder fields, and bypass fallen trees along a rocky precipice.

It’s tempting to say it wasn’t worth it—but I can’t lie. It was as if we were discovering another world deep inside the natural wonderland of the Tetons. After about three hours of hiking, we finally caught sight of the lake—Woah!

The lake was a luminous milky turquoise, the kind of color that is impossible to truly describe. I read later that Delta Lake gets its otherworldly hue from the glacial silt of the Teton Glacier. Wherever it gets it, I was sold. Hiking was my new favorite pastime, bears or not.

Al Fresco at Amangani

With day two of hiking (and surviving) behind us, we later celebrated with drinks outside on Amangani’s veranda. The fully stocked bar looked especially beautiful as the setting sun started to descend behind the glass bottles. Another pair of red-tailed hawks soared and circled above as if delicately sewn into the fabric of the scene.

In the distance, dark storms gathered. The air smelled heavy. As it came closer, it became a game of chicken—in which guests would abandon their seats first to take cover. The raindrops didn’t slowly trickle as much as they decided to whole-heartedly dump down on us at once. We dashed indoors.

The storm didn’t disappoint. Jagged lightning bolts took turns bolting, and thunder cracks intermittently cracked. Then, as dramatically as it had started—it stopped. The rainclouds were beyond us, heading towards and eventually obscuring Grand Teton before making their way swiftly across the range. What the storm left behind was a sky of violent color, dramatic clouds, and crisp mountain silhouettes. Woah.

Amangani-led safari

With a hiking reprieve the next day, we headed out with a guide on a land safari in Grand Teton National Park. Our guide was so full of information—about wildlife, mating calls, obscure species, flora, and fauna that I didn’t have the bandwidth in my brain to keep up. I tried to impress him with my mating knowledge of the sage grouse, but it seemed he was already up to speed. Show off.

I was excited for a break and a day of photographic soul food. Searching for wildlife from the safety of a car? Now, I was in my happy place.

Again, an early morning beckoned, as that is when the wildlife is easiest to spot. We immediately came upon a herd of lovely chocolate brown elk silently grazing in a barely sun-touched field. Soon after, we spotted a pair of bison on the road’s edge.

Bisons have an awkward body shape, with a massive hairy head and front quarters compared to their somewhat skinny, spindly hindquarters. I was taken by surprise when we witnessed these large mammals elegantly jump a fence to get more food. They are shockingly limber creatures!

The crowning moment of the morning, without question, was when we drove directly past an enormous grizzly bear grazing just off the side of the road. With wildflowers in the foreground and fields and mountains in the background, it felt like he had been planted there for camera-armed tourists like me.

We watched this lovely old grizzly slowly saunter around, munching plants, minding his own bucolic existence. Woah. It was one of the best wildlife moments of all time. When you have Jackson Hole, who needs Africa?

Tackling the Teton Mountains

It was inevitable that something would go wrong; we were in the wilderness, after all. Our third day of hiking started typically enough. We rode up the aerial tram to Rendezvous Mountain, where we were due to take a scenic 12-mile hike down to the base. Many had told us about the heavenly waffles that were sold at Corbet’s Cabin, just at the summit, and I bee-lined there as soon as we hopped off—energy for the hike ahead.

Again, a victim of half-eaten food photography, I had already inhaled their famous traditional brown sugar-buttered waffle before I remembered to snap it.

Although it was July, there was still snow on the ground in places, and some signage might or might have not been obscured. Or, we might have just missed the signs altogether. We got lost, found ourselves off the trail, my biggest nightmare, and to top it off, we had just descended a harrowing scree field that took all of my technical and physical energy.

As if that weren’t enough, I caught sight of a lumbering silhouette alongside the stream in the distance. Yes, I panicked. Yes, we argued loudly. The upside was that our shouting definitely kept the bear at bay.

After deciding to cut our losses and head back to the tram via the dreaded scree field we had just navigated (exponentially worse going up than down), we had still hiked about 10 miles, had an adventure, and gone nowhere. At least we had those famous buttery waffles.

Until next time, Jackson Hole

Sometimes, it is best to have not seen and done it all. To leave something behind for another day —a reason to return. The iconic male moose had eluded us those five days, even though our eyes were peeled for him at every turn. We had seen our fair share of wildlife in Jackson Hole, snow-capped Teton mountain views, and epic hiking adventures.

Until next time, Jackson Hole.

Author’s Update: Amangani will close in April of 2025 for extensive refurbishment and reopen in the summer of 2026.

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February 15, 2024
From Jamaica, With Love: The Goldeneye Resort Review

Our van takes a sharp left from the busy road through a small gap in an unassuming stone wall. Twisted tree limbs dangle over it and I have the urge to hold my breath as we squeeze through. I peer out the rear window, half expecting the gap to close up and disappear into the overgrowth. I’ve arrived at Goldeneye in Jamaica, the very place where James Bond was brought to life by author Ian Fleming. Although I’ve been on the grounds all of seven seconds, its magnetic pull is undeniable.

It’s another world in here.

Why Jamaica?

We choose Jamaica for utilitarian and unromantic reasons. It’s less than two weeks until the avalanche otherwise known as Christmas arrives and Jamaica is a non-stop three-hour flight from DC. Perfect. I need a quick getaway to find my holiday spirit. I hope it fits in my carry-on. I’ve overpacked as usual.

Our driver is easy to spot, holding up a small sign that reads ‘Goldeneye’. I smile, imagining myself beachside within the hour. ‘How far to the resort?’, I ask, ready to get out of my bulky plane clothes. ‘Two hours’, he replies with a wide grin. I throw my head back and laugh, having heard this joke before. ‘No, really.’ I say, ‘How far?’ Still smiling, but not joking, he repeats, ‘Two hours.’ Ugh.

But, once we pass the mega, all-inclusive resorts of Montego Bay, the ride is a snap. I take mental notes as we traverse the northern coast of the island: uninterrupted views of the Caribbean Sea, colorful rowboats in shallow salt marshes, hot pink oleander hovering over narrow medians, and banded palm trees lining crescent coves.

Before I know it, two hours have elapsed. As a bonus, I’m completely relaxed.

Our van takes a sharp left… oh wait, you know that part. Moving on.

Goldeneye, Jamaica: A Brief History

Super fans of 007 will likely know that Jamaica is where Ian Fleming wrote his famous British spy series. In 1946, Mr. Fleming, a former British soldier himself, built Goldeneye, a villa perched majestically on a sea cliff with expansive Caribbean views. At one time, Goldeneye was the social epicenter of the island, with guests like Truman Capote, Princess Margaret, and Errol Flynn coming and going throughout the year.

Twelve years after Mr. Fleming died, reggae pioneer Bob Marley bought the estate. Shortly thereafter, he sold it to Island Records founder, Chris Blackwell who added 25 acres to the original 15 and converted the property into a small hotel.

James Bond is the most charming secret agent in history. And while I’m a big fan, I’ll admit now that I was a tad nervous about the Bond theme being too, well, theme-y. It’s not. There are subtle nods, like the License to Chill cocktail I enjoyed at Button Beach every day. But, that’s about it. So, if you’re a 007 enthusiast hoping for a Bond-themed lazy river or paragliding excursion, manage your expectations.

Goldeneye hasn’t lost its original allure. Celebrities, models, and rock stars alike visit today—just not the week we are there, unfortunately.

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Rooms With A View, At Goldeneye

Goldeneye has three types of rooms; beach villa, lagoon cottage, or beach hut. Despite being within such close proximity to one another, they are very different. As the name implies, beach villas are on the beach. Unlike other resorts where a beach villa might mean you have to walk (gasp!) five minutes to said beach, Goldeneye’s beach villas are located in the sand, just steps from the water.

Let me flog my point. I pack four pairs of shoes, including the sneakers (or trainers, this is a former English colony!) I wore on the plane. Once at the resort, I don’t wear shoes. Not to dinner, not to the spa. Not at all. I’m pretty much walking on sand the entire time I’m there. If Goldeneye doesn’t define ‘barefoot luxury’ I’ll eat my shoe (I mean, trainer).

Our villa has a wide-covered veranda and two beach loungers on either side of a large umbrella facing Low Cay. The decor is beach shack fancy, Jamaica-style. Aka rustic. Our villa has dark wood accents, bright batik-dyed colored fabrics, a claw-footed tub, and a refreshing outdoor shower.

A full kitchen we never use has a Smeg refrigerator that keeps our Red Stripe and bottled water cold. The gauzy netting above our king bed isn’t decorative, which worries me. That I wake up bite-free each morning is a mosquito miracle.

The Blue Lagoon (Cottages)

The lagoon cottages would be my second choice of accommodation at Goldeneye. Perched directly on the calm, warm lagoon, they’re unlike anything I’ve seen in the Caribbean. The lagoon people can swim from their private docks to search for giant sea turtles lurking below the surface. They can tie their kayaks up to the dock after a late afternoon paddle.

It all feels very Blue Lagoon circa 1980—sans Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins. I’ll bet they’ve been past guests. I make a note to check the guest book.

Hut Life

Goldeneye’s beach huts are a world unto themselves, clustered between Button Beach and Snorkeler’s Cove. Contrary to the name, beach huts are not on the beach. They are huts near the beach. It’s an important nuance. Some huts are raised ten feet from the ground and overlook flower-filled gardens and paths. Others have private verandas and outdoor showers.

According to Goldeneye’s website, hut life is about casualness and simplicity. It states that the freestanding huts are special because of the louvered windows that control the light and breeze. To me, this is code for no air conditioning. But, if you’d like a basic, primal, louvered window wooden cabana near the beach, consider hut life.

Pretty windows notwithstanding, if we ever wondered if we were hut people, the huts at Goldeneye assure us we aren’t.

Simple Luxury, at Goldeneye

Our waiter does a little jig between the tables, singing along with the music, a wide smile on his face. The Field Spa hut dangles over the lagoon’s edge and I enjoy a warm foot bath on the veranda while awaiting my massage. Johnny cakes for breakfast and homemade plantain chips with snapper ceviche for lunch. The simple luxury of Goldeneye is in the details.

Sea turtle nests are found around the beach villas. Wooden signs acknowledge their locations and lighting is kept intentionally low to accommodate them. The benefit of tiki torches being our sole source of light means we can see constellations overhead with such clarity I walk into more than one palm tree while stargazing.

This could be 1964, 1974, or 2004. I doubt much has changed at Goldeneye in Jamaica over the decades. It’s no-frills, simple luxuries like these that have guests returning again and again.

To Do, Or Not To Do

At Goldeneye, I do practically nothing. If there was ever a place to do nothing, this is it. I don’t leave the property. Aside from eating, drinking, and sleeping, here’s a list of what I did:

I read The Heaven and Earth Grocery Store, by James McBride. If you haven’t read it you are missing out on some seriously fine writing. No offense, Mr. Fleming.

I kayaked around the lagoon. It was so serene and peaceful that I did it twice.

I had a sports massage. This wasn’t serene or peaceful. My mistake—I should have chosen better.

In four days, my step counter totals under 5,000 steps. It probably thought I was dead.

Who Goes to Goldeneye?

Aside from all the celebrities we don’t see at Goldeneye, the resort caters to normal people who want complete seclusion in a lush, tropical setting. There’s plenty for kids to do, snorkeling, swimming, and an array of other water sports like sailing and SUP. But once the sun goes down, it’s pin-drop quiet. While that’s appealing to me, who believes a good night’s sleep is a gift from the gods, kids might disagree.

We come to Goldeneye seeking escape, not adventure. Goldeneye delivers. Natural beauty is everywhere. The Caribbean Sea, turquoise lagoons, fiery sunsets, and thousands of trees. We see trees in every stage of life, from newly planted plum, almond, and mango trees to mature orange, coconut, and apple trees.

Many of these trees have signs displaying who donated them. Goldeneye’s innovative plant-a-tree program means guests can tell friends at home that their mango tree grows beside Kate Moss’s coconut one. Your bragging rights are helping to sustain the planet. One thousand dollars well spent.

Goldeneye: The Antidote to the Mega-Resort

Ian Fleming may be long gone, but his creativity lives on in this picturesque and remote coastal part of Jamaica. It’s all too easy to see how one can be inspired here. The gentle, lapping waves, mesmerizing sea turtles, starry nights, and whistling birds are just a few of the reasons Goldeneye Resort is so captivating.

Forget what you think you know about Jamaica. It’s not only mega-resorts with water slides, pirate-themed water parks, and ‘frozé all day’. Not that there’s anything wrong with frozé. Actually, everything is wrong with frozé, but that’s an opinion for a future post.

It’s another world behind the stone walls of Goldeneye. Channel your inner secret agent. The one who needs to relax after saving the world from total destruction (or trying to get your son into college, etc). Find a reason to go barefoot and fancy-free for a few days. Bring a book. Consider Casino Royale—the very one that kickstarted Fleming’s famous series.

Or do nothing at all.

See what all the fuss is about at Goldeneye. Click here!

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December 15, 2023
How to get to Antarctica—the most extreme place on Earth

My Antarctic travels reveal more than the differences between Weddell and Leopard seals. Or how Gentoo penguins care for their young. My Antarctic travels reveal the power of the wind. And how much of an iceberg we really see floating above the water’s surface. Antarctica evokes awe. I discovered anything can happen in Antarctica—which is exactly the way it should be. Wondering how I got to Antarctica? Bundle up—you’re in the right place.

A humpback whale breaks the water’s inky surface. Remains of barnacles, those ubiquitous ocean hitchhikers, appear on its bulbous body. Thirty feet from my sea kayak, I see its dorsal fin and tail disappear into the sea as if caught in slow motion. An iceberg provides a striking background to its dripping fluke. It takes a deep dive, and I nervously wonder where and when it will resurface.

I’m in Antarctica, the most extreme place on Earth. A humpback whale is swimming directly beneath me. Justifiably, I’m a little nervous, but mainly, I feel at peace.

The idea of Antarctica

I can’t recall what inspired my Antarctic travels. But it will surely have to do with a combination of three things I crave: adventure, wildlife, and a desire to go places before everyone else.

I asked Rick, my 78-year-old stepfather, if he’d like to join me. The conversation goes something like this: “Rick, do you want to go to Ant—”

“YES!”

I could well have been asking Rick to go to Antwerp. Rick is up for anything, which is one of the reasons I ask him. He doesn’t bat an eye. Antarctica, Antwerp, Antigua. He’s in.

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Antarctic Travels: Quark’s Ultramarine

There are two ways to get to Antarctica—by airplane or by ship. Ships typically depart from the southernmost tip of Argentina, from a city named Ushuaia. I choose Quark Expeditions’ ultra-modern Ultramarine. Quark has decades of experience in polar travel. Their two-year-old Ultramarine has a maximum capacity of 199 guests. It’s purpose-built for polar travel and is purely expedition-based. These two factors weigh heavily in my decision.

Purpose-built means the ship was designed from scratch to handle polar conditions. Expedition-based means the trip is all about wildlife, excursions, and the environment: no cringe-y nightly shows or formal dinners.

Base Camp

The Ultramarine is the equivalent of a mountain climber’s base camp. It has everything we need to stay safe, keep warm, and be well-fed on our daily adventures. For instance, Deck 2 has two ready rooms where each guest has a personal cubby for outdoor gear, life-saving equipment, and muck boots. Deck 2 is designed to fast-launch twenty Zodiac boats that shuttle intrepid explorers around the sea with the speed and precision of a military operation.

Deck 5 is where the main restaurant, Balena, is located. Balena’s ever-changing menu has options from fresh tuna to filet mignon. It also has a daily ice cream station where the chef recreates my childhood fave—the Chipwich. There is no all-day buffet, but I can promise that no one on the Ultramarine goes hungry.

Deck 8 has two twin-engine helicopters for flight-seeing, heli-trekking, and heli-landings. Deck 7 has features designed for self-care—a sauna with floor-to-ceiling windows and the aptly named Tundra spa. Bistro 487 and the Panorama Lounge are also on Deck 7—with spaces designed for maximum relaxation between excursions.

Antarctic Eco-Matters

Quark Expeditions has a strong sustainability and eco-conscious mindset. They care about the planet and show it. A few examples include the lack of single-use plastic on board the Ultramarine. Instead, guests are given two soft water bladders that can be refilled at stations throughout the ship. The boat is practically paperless. Computer displays on each deck outline the day’s events, and an onboard phone app provides instant access to information.

Our muck boots are disinfected after each polar landing so as not to spread avian flu. For the same reason, we aren’t allowed to kneel or place equipment on the continent during excursions. The crazy (I mean, adventurous) explorers who sign up to sleep one night on the continent are only allowed to take a sleeping bag. No food. No drinks. And no tents. They are told not to pee on the continent, either. How this played out is anyone’s guess.

Quark has its eco-mindset firmly set. It also has a team of expedition guides I want to be when I grow up.

Explorers Wanted

Our Expedition Leader is named Abbey. Along with the Captain, she’s in charge of, well—everything. Abbey wakes us from our polar slumber each morning via the PA system. Each evening, she (and the team) presents a recap of the day’s events and a briefing for the following day’s Antarctic travels.

Abbey’s sentences often begin with ‘If conditions allow…’ or ‘We are hoping to…’. This isn’t because Abbey is ill-informed. It’s because, from day to day, no one but Mother Nature knows quite what the Antarctic has in store. If this doesn’t pique your interest, perhaps Antarctica is best visited from your couch with David Attenborough and the BBC.

For example, the day we are due to explore Hidden Bay, Mother Nature decides to deny us entry by creating winds the Ultramarine can’t battle. A humbling moment like this makes each day a true adventure in Antarctica. It also makes it difficult to be Abbey.

Antarctic Travels: The Ultramarine Dream Team

The Expedition Team is a multifaceted group of explorers. Fabrice is Ultramarine’s ornithology presenter. He is also a biologist, a children’s picture book author, and a skillful Zodiac driver. Michelle is the onboard photography guide. She is also a trained field guide and fluent in Spanish, French, Catalan, and the Queen’s English—a bonus for many European and South American passengers.

Ross is a 26-year-old British historian. He treats polar history with the gusto of a Broadway performer on opening night. History was my least favorite subject in school (sorry, Ross), yet I’m riveted by every talk he gives. I go to the lounge early for a front-row seat to his Shackleton presentation. I’m not the only one. Ross has a talent for storytelling that goes well beyond his years.

The expertise and unity of the crew, expedition team, expedition leader, and captain (140 people strong) are critical to the journey’s success. When I spend ten hours in my cabin on lockdown due to a category of wind just shy of hurricane strength, I want to know that my fate is in the hands of experts. That way I can best enjoy my pan-seared Dover sole with lemon and couscous while watching The Secret Life of Walter Mitty on my flat-screen TV without a trace of anxiety.

Cabin Fever

My room is big—only marginally smaller than my first studio apartment in NYC, and with more closet space. The modern bathroom has an oversized mirrored vanity, a walk-in shower, and heated floors that are perfect for drying wet gloves or hats overnight. While built-in bottles of shampoo, conditioner, and body wash containers align with the no single-use plastic model, it also means nothing is falling off the shower ledge as we cruise through Antarctic waters.

Cabin 325 has a large picture window facing the sea nearly at sea level. I’m on Deck 3, the lowest deck for cabins, and I like the view more than I anticipated. I sit in the deep window frame with a pillow each night to watch the sea for whales and the sky for birds. I count wandering albatrosses, storm petrels, and Antarctic prions as the sun sets. January is summer in Antarctica, so it stays light well after I’ve gone to bed.

This window is a backstage pass to Antarctica’s glory. I don’t even need to leave my room to experience it.

The Drake Passage, Part One

The Drake Passage is infamous. These words conjure up age-old explorers, choppy, turbulent waters, epic winds, and crashing waves. In the factual sense, the Drake Passage is the shortest route from civilization to Antarctica. It’s 620 miles wide and over 11,000 feet deep, with water passing through it at up to 200 million cubic yards per second. I’m not one for numbers, but that sounds pretty intense. In the abstract sense, the Drake Passage is one of the planet’s most thrilling and exclusive adventures.

I lift my gaze towards the open sea as we leave the safety of the Beagle Channel. Who knows what awaits—which is another part of the adventure of Antarctic travel. Waves gently roll for hundreds of miles with nothing to break their undulating stride. Our two-day passage proves to be eerily calm—an extreme often called the Drake Lake. Guests toast the sea gods with another cocktail. And another.

None of us think about the fact that we will have to come back. It’s just as well.

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Outside, it’s Antarctica

It’s 630am. I race to my cabin window. A world of polar white greets me. I stumble as I get dressed. I grab my binoculars, camera, and heated vest. It may be early, but the rattle and hum of the ship are palpable. The combined energy of 136 toddlers waking up on Christmas morning. I’m afraid if I waste even one moment, Antarctica might disappear.

We have arrived at Hughes Bay, which lies along the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. It’s 26 miles long and may or may not have been the site of Antarctica’s first mainland landing in 1821. None of this means anything to me right now. I’m taking my first polar breaths and catching the first polar breezes on my cheeks. I’m awe-struck by the first windswept, snow-covered landscapes of Antarctica.

Sixty seconds elapse before I see a glossy humpback whale leisurely swimming off the ship’s bow. I’m stunned into silence. I’m not alone.

Antarctica is otherworldly

How can one render the vastness and otherworldliness of Antarctica? A photographer can capture it on film, but depth of field limitations are a hindrance. An artist can draw it but is bound by the edges of the canvas. I’m visual by nature, tied permanently to my camera. But try as I might; the only way I can describe it is through sound.

I hear the rhythm of waves propelling and releasing icebergs, whales trumpeting, and wind whistling. I hear the ice cracking, the deafening echo of ice shelves calving, and distant avalanches roaring: the ship keels and creaks.

I close my eyes—humbled and ever-so-slightly afraid. It dawns on me just how far I am from home, my kids, and my husband. At 7am, Abbey’s voice rings across the ship. It’s time to get breakfast and suit up for the Zodiacs.

Antarctica, we have arrived.

Antarctic Travels: A typical day is never typical

“Tern!” shouts Fabrice, with the enthusiasm other guides use when spotting whales. Fabrice is all about the birds. Our Zodiac group looks up in unison to see a snow-white Antarctic Tern glide overhead. It looks like it’s wearing a black cap and red lipstick. Anyone who ignores birds in Antarctica is missing out.

A typical day in Antarctica is never typical. The two daily excursions that await us may be by Zodiac, sea kayak, stand-up paddle, or helicopter. The excursions take anywhere from 2-4 hours, depending upon how sidetracked the guides get chasing spy-hopping whales or a raft of penguins. This leaves little room for downtime. We eat, have coffee, suit up, and get back out on the water. This is not a leisure cruise, mind you.

Above and below the surface of Antarctica

Each of the 136 passengers on the Ultramarine is invited to take a 15-minute heli-flight. Having two helicopters on board is a perk exclusive to the ship. The opportunity to see Antarctica from above is a total thrill. By the end of the expedition, I’ll have racked up multiple vantage points from which I experience it. Above sea level, at sea level, and below sea level. (The below-sea-level experience is fleeting, not to mention numbing.)

One evening, Abbey alerts us to a trio of orcas off the ship’s starboard side. Their dorsal fins and tell-tale black and white torpedo-shaped bodies bring a hush over the crowd. At 10pm, the sun is still high in the sky. A rose-tinted light is cast over the snowy mountain range and is mirrored on the rippling water.

One day, we spot a Weddell Seal dozing on a teetering tabular iceberg. He yawns and scratches his long, dove-gray whiskered face. He raises a fin in acknowledgment. We respond with a hundred continuous SLR clicks. Photoshoot complete, he returns to his nap. Anything can happen in Antarctica, and everyone wants to capture it.

Sea Kayaking, For The Win

Rick and I are two of only sixteen passengers in the sea kayaking program. We sign up for it the day we put down our deposit and count ourselves lucky for having secured a coveted spot. I’m not exaggerating when I say 120 passengers are jealous of us each day we put on our dry suits.

“How different can it be from the Zodiacs?” you may wonder. In a word, very. Kayaks are stealthy, quiet, provide legitimate exercise, and are solo (or tandem) endeavors. In a kayak, we are even closer to the sea, the ice, and the wildlife.

We kayak through small, bergy bits (a technical term I learned from our fearless guides, DT and Sarah) and larger growlers. DT tells us we only see about 10% of an iceberg above the water’s surface. I have an a-ha moment about the idiom, ‘That’s just the tip of the iceberg…’ I’m guessing most people don’t have to go to Antarctica to learn.

Taking our time on our Antarctic Travels

I watch the sun eke its way through dense, gray cloud cover—savoring the landscape while Rick paddles. In case you’re concerned about Rick’s welfare, this arrangement has been pre-organized. Rick paddles and I take pictures. That’s the deal. Plus, he’s an excellent kayaker. He went to sleepaway camp for 30 years.

Despite Camp Chickawah’s tutelage, DT has to adjust Rick’s foot pedals in the middle of the sea. Twice. I channel inner peace and exhale. DT is surprisingly patient—a big Aussie that none of us wants to disappoint. So if DT isn’t in a rush, neither am I. Pedals locked in place, we catch up to the rest of the kayakers.

A sharp breath escapes from a humpback’s blowhole. Before I can blink, the whale is before us, nearly upon us, and then underneath us. One hundred Ultramarine guests on land with binoculars are oozing with jealousy. Anything can happen in Antarctica, as every day continues to prove.

A collection of penguins

I geek out on collective nouns for animals. Don’t judge. For instance, a group of puffins is called a circus, and a group of jaguars is called a shadow. Imagine my delight in learning the collective nouns of penguins! Bear with me, you’ll love this.

The collective nouns of penguins are determined by where they are and what they are doing! Colonies of penguins are the most commonly known term for a group of penguins, but huddles and rookeries are others. Walking penguins are called a ‘waddle’ and swimming penguins are called a ‘raft’. Am I the only one who loves this stuff? Fabrice?

We see three of the four penguins living in Antarctica: Gentoo, Adélie, and Chinstrap. In January, the Emperor Penguins are further inland. I push away my disappointment and enjoy the 100,000 penguins at hand. Or, should I say, at my feet.

The Penguin Highways of Antarctica

Our Zodiac landings allow us to walk alongside and observe these fascinating creatures. Penguins are the only animals on Earth that look cuter as adults than as babies. Our two hours on Danco Island are an introduction to penguin life I’ll never forget. And that’s not only because it smells so bad.

On Danco’s rocky shoreline, Gentoo penguins waddle as far as the eye can see. They build nests by brazenly stealing their neighbor’s rocks. Then, they squawk at the same neighbor who steals the rocks back. They create convenient paths along the steep mountains to waddle up and belly-slide down—penguin highways. Our guides tell us that penguins always have the right of way. No one argues.

Gentoos have orange bills, a white triangular patch on their otherwise black heads, and are inherently curious. We are asked to stay 15 feet from them, but every time I turn around, I find one staring up at me quizzically.

On another penguin landing, we observe (and by observe, I mean take 4000 photos of) the slightly smaller Chinstraps. Chinstraps are defined by a black stripe that runs across their throat. Four million breeding pairs of these feisty little penguins exist throughout the Antarctic. We see most of them.

The Adélie Penguins are the smallest (and cutest!) of the Antarctic penguin species. Adélies have a white ring around their eyes and a mostly feather-covered bill. Nothing sums up cuteness like a waddle of Adélies balancing on a rocking iceberg before they take the polar plunge. There you go—a fine intro to Antarctic penguins. You’re welcome.

Antarctic Travels are about one thing

In Antarctica, it’s all about the wildlife, but it’s also all about the ice and the landscape. Let’s agree that it’s all intertwined. I allow for transcendental moments every day. I’m spoiled by them.

Today, we see a raft of penguins! Today, we watch an enormous ice shelf topple dramatically into the sea! Today, we pass through the narrow Lemaire Passage! Today, we see orcas hunt a humpback! Today I purposely throw myself into the ocean! Antarctica is a world of hyperbole! I can’t use enough exclamation points to make my point!

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The Drake Passage, Part Two

It’s immediately clear our return crossing will not be another Drake Lake. For a start, Abbey announces we’re heading back a ‘touch’ earlier than planned. At dinner, plates rattle, and waiters weave around unstable guests. There are far fewer diners in the restaurant than usual—a telling sign.

Despite deteriorating conditions, those who can party on. We have drinks at the bar and eventually head off to count Gentoo penguins in our sleep. Throughout the night, the waves and wind increase in severity.

By 9am, it’s obvious we’re in for a wild ride. I’m struggling a little to get to the Panorama Lounge for a much-needed shot of caffeine when Abbey pipes up over the PA system. “For everyone’s safety, we will be on cabin lockdown for the next ten hours. But fear not, all is well!”, she says energetically. “Room service will be coming around shortly.”

Satisfied with my marching orders, I get into my cushy robe and enjoy a movie marathon that involves a Sir Edmund Hillary documentary (but I hate history, Ross!) and The Life Of Pi. I look out the window at what I later learn are 30-foot waves. The wind strength moves the needle to 11 on the Beaufort Wind Scale. A scale that maxes out at (what I also later learned) is 12. We are one notch shy of hurricane-strength winds. In Antarctica, anything can happen. I remind myself that this is what I signed up for. I hope Rick did, too.

Surviving The Drake Shake

Do some passengers despise the passage? Definitely. Do some get sick? Ummmm yes. But do we all agree it’s a right of (Drake) passage? Well, I haven’t taken a formal poll, but yes, let’s agree!

Eventually, we round Cape Horn and the waters still. We’re allowed to leave the cabins. Feeling like released hostages, we toast the sea gods (yet again) and behave like we’ve weathered something big.

Indeed, we have.

Processing Antarctica

I visit my sister a few days after my Antarctic travels. When I wake up at 630am, it’s still dark outside. The sun slowly rises as I head north. Puffy clouds in the distance take me back to the whipped cream peaks of Antarctica. The currents beneath the Delaware Memorial Bridge remind me of kayaking with Rick.

I see a bird swoop overhead and think, “Tern!” channeling my inner Fabrice. But alas, it’s a turkey vulture circling roadkill over the NJ Turnpike.

Over the next two hours, my mind processes the vast, otherwordly continent I left behind. I recall the passengers I befriended and the crew from whom I learned so much. I think of the sky, mountains, and sea. The seals and penguins.

And, of course, the whales.

I’m home. Far from the most extreme place on Earth, but brimming with endless reminders of an awe-inspiring journey. In Antarctica, anything can happen. And that’s fine with me.

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December 15, 2023
Sugar Beach is The Caribbean’s Ultimate Family Friendly Resort

Sugar Beach, St. Lucia—When my family heads off on a beach holiday, some of us want to do everything, and some of us want to do nothing. Usually, I want to do a little bit of something, then a whole lot of nothing. As it turns out, there is a place for families like us where you can do absolutely everything, or absolutely nothing, at exactly the same time. Sugar Beach, St. Lucia, seemed to find that fantastic balance of being a family-friendly resort while not feeling like it was designed for kids.

Between the Pitons at Sugar Beach in St. Lucia

The Pitons, a duo of volcanic spires, are St. Lucia’s main event. I’d happily debate anyone who says otherwise. It’s the unique selling point of Viceroy’s Sugar Beach and St. Lucia, as far as I am concerned. Sitting at 2,618ft and 2,438ft, respectively, both Gros and Petit Pitons are the natural defining features of this lush paradise.

St. Lucia’s Sugar Beach won the Caribbean lottery on location, being one of only two resorts that rest between them and the only one that is beachfront. They have been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and at any given time of day, one piton is lit to perfection, while the other lies in dramatic shadow. Both are awe-inspiring and magnificent around the clock. They are so highly regarded that the local beer is named ‘Piton’ in their honor.

Sugar Beach’s villas and cottages

Contrary to our usual travel mantra of never repeating a trip, this was our second time to St. Lucia and Sugar Beach. In 2014, we opted for a white clapboard colonial cottage neatly camouflaged in the hills overlooking the sea.

With its private plunge pool, Rainforest Spa, and on-demand golf cart access, this Viceroy resort was the kind of hideaway we sought. Cascading flora and fauna nearly swallowed the entrance, and it boasted majestic views of the Pitons—nature enveloped us from all angles.

This time, we had a few more people in tow and opted for a beachfront villa. In contrast to the intimate cottage, it was wide-open and airy, had two pools and a hot tub, and sat directly on the beach.

The long, infinity pool paralleled the sea, hovering just high enough above it so it looked like we were swimming laps alongside the horizon. The villa’s expansive patio had front-row seats to sunsets, and during our five nights, each was more spectacular than the one before.

We found it so hard to tear ourselves away that on our last evening; we decided to have dinner on the patio and settle in for the night. The four poster beds had gauzy mosquito netting that gave the rooms a dreamy feeling. White-on-white, with dark wooden colonial touches, added to the breezy vibe of the villa.

Every window faced the ocean, where we watched the chartered catamarans and privately owned yachts slowly drift in and out of the harbor—an unvarnished portrait of the ever-changing seascape being painted before our eyes.

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Colonial Vibes at Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

Sugar Beach sits on a staggering 100 acres of rainforest on what was once a thriving sugar plantation dating back to the 18th century. Today, plantation architecture characterizes the villas from the inside out. Common areas are accented by potted plants that border the exterior and inner walkways. Overgrown and lush, tropical flowers appear around every corner.

The villa’s loungy outdoor seating surrounds the pool, and doors are wide open to the sea from the bedrooms and living spaces. The kitchen was stocked with wine, fruit, and bottled water. If something was needed, it was just a phone call to our villa butler to help.

Resort Life at Sugar Beach

Our villa was a short walk to the main part of the resort, which was a nice perk as the kids could easily come and go as they pleased. The Pitons that bookend the bay make it a finite wonderland for roaming kids. The main house has multiple restaurants, a kid’s club, a sushi bar, swinging daybeds, and touches of surprisingly interesting artwork.

Sugar Beach takes hotel artwork to another level, and I wondered who curated it. Notably, too, was that the artwork seemed to stand the test of time. It is not an easy feat in a world constantly reinventing itself.

Culinary delights at Sugar Beach

There are multiple restaurants and bars at Sugar Beach, each having its slice of Caribbean character. Restaurant Bayside is open-air and (as named) steps from the bay. Fresh tuna, Mahi Mahi, wood-fired pizzas, and multiple vegetarian options made everyone in our group happy.

We surprised ourselves with more than one dinner at The Cane Bar. The Cane Bar is nearly hidden behind an imposing black door off the art gallery. Asian in inspiration, with the exciting addition of being known for its rum drinks.

It was a much-needed change up from the Caribbean-influenced menus. Fresh tuna, sea bream, and sea bass, all with pretty presentations, had us coming back. The decor is classic in black and white, yet somehow made warmer by the avant-garde sculpture and unusual multi-media pieces.

While my only wish is that it also had outdoor seating, it was a hit with our entire group. As a bonus, a billiards room is tucked in the back—a place to relax with a cocktail post-dinner and hide from our kids.

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Sugar Beach’s atypical breakfast buffet

Breakfast is served on another veranda, above a sweeping flight of stairs and past a large, beautiful pond. I’m not much for breakfast, but the Sugar Beach interpretation makes anyone rethink the run-of-the-mill buffet. My kids are still talking about it as a highlight months later. Fresh yogurts, grains, fruits, cereals. Various juices, like watermelon, guava, and papaya, sat chilling in glass pitchers.

There are at least five different types of freshly baked bread. The T80 sourdough became an immediate obsession among us. We may or may not have ‘borrowed’ a few loaves the morning we left the resort for our sailing trip. Made-to-order smoothies and enough cow’s milk alternatives to make any lactose-free guest swoon. Breakfast buffet, perfected.

The Ultimate Hike at Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

An experiment in forgetting about pain, climbing Gros Piton was far more challenging than I remembered from 2014. Perhaps being older, less fit, and having a moody teenager in tow added to the drama.

We started at sea level, which added about 30 minutes to the climb. Big mistake. We were in full sweat when we reached the village entrance. Annoying perky hikers were beginning their ascent.

Our guides kept to our pace, which was a challenge as our group was scattered all over the mountain. I stayed far enough ahead of my daughter so that I couldn’t hear her complaints. And behind my husband, son, and friend, who high-tailed it to the summit at breakneck speed.

There are two summit viewpoints, and after 1 1/2 hours or so, we reached the first. If I had to do it again, I’d skip the first summit and go directly to the next one. It was far prettier and made the blood, sweat, and tears more worthwhile. I will even go as far as to say that the mid-mountain summit is just as breathtaking. It stares directly toward Petit Piton (which, confusingly, is more challenging to climb than Gros Piton).

My quads were on fire for the remainder of the day (and the next). I counted it as my ‘something’ for the trip. Then, I spent the next four days congratulating myself for having earned four days of ‘nothing.’ My daughter still complains about the hike regularly.

Click here for details: A Guided Gros Piton hike with the best views of St Lucia!

Wander or Lounge? Both, naturally.

There’s no end to activities available at a family-friendly spot like Sugar Beach. Among them are waterskiing, scuba, snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, tennis, the Rainforest Spa, and tubing. My favorite? On the beach, under a shaggy, golden, thatched umbrella with an order of shrimp tacos. From there, I could watch the kids waterski or jump from the circular water loungers that dotted the swimming area.

For all the activities on hand, though, it never felt like an over-the-top, Disney-fied experience. At times, it had a homespun quality—kids left to play a game of pick-up soccer or to run with wild abandon on the beach.

The Rainforest Spa at Viceroy’s Sugar Beach

Even in a setting as relaxed as St. Lucia, there are always ways to get a little more relaxed. The Rainforest Spa at Sugar Beach is in a class of its own. A long, bamboo-lined, serpentine corridor dotted with rattan-covered lanterns leads to the spa reception—allowing just the right amount of romantic light through its slats.

The massage huts are scattered around, hovering in the trees, with sunlight filtering softly between the leaves. I felt like I had happened upon a primitive island—an ethereal start to an hour of relaxation.

St. Lucia, unfiltered

In an overly filtered world (and I love my filters as much as the next Instagrammer), I will say that I draw the line at sunsets. If I can’t capture the sunset without using one, then it just isn’t worth capturing.

Luckily, St. Lucian sunsets required no filters. The nightly drama, the changing kaleidoscope of colors, was one of the few things everyone in my family could sit still for.

Often, the simplest things bring the most happiness. Even if stripped of boats, gear, toys, and massage tables, Sugar Beach St. Lucia would still overdeliver. What lies between the pitons is a timeless natural wonder, enhanced by the warm-hearted staff that made us feel wholly welcome.

On our final night, a fierce game of beach cricket ensued. It was one of my favorite lasting memories of the trip. To paraphrase Winston Churchill, “All the great things are simple.” I couldn’t agree more.

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December 1, 2023
Blue Rock: A Beautiful Mini-Break in the Blue Ridge Mountains

A butterfly floats out from the greenhouse door as I walk in. Its pale amber and brown wings catch the breeze. Inside, the smell of ripe tomatoes fills the air—intoxicating in the way only farm-fresh vegetables can be. It’s early morning at Sunnyside, a farm in Washington, Virginia, just 90 minutes west of where I live in Washington DC.

Earlier, I’d spent time speaking with Sunnyside’s Vegetable Production Co-Manager at the Flint Hill Latin Market. Nik Kohl had Asian pears, tomatillos, purslane, herbs, and other vegetables simply displayed under a handwritten sign. A few of the ingredients were unfamiliar to me, like purslane, for instance. Its slightly sour taste reminded me of watercress. Little did I know this highly nutritious, tasty ‘weed’ I’d never heard of would make an appearance at my dinner later that night.

Destination: Blue Rock

I’m Blue Rock-bound. I’m on my way to discover first-hand why this five-bedroom inn and restaurant which sits on 80 acres of rolling hills is creating such a stir in Rappahannock County, Virginia. Bespoke farmhouse rooms, bucolic countryside views, and a vineyard-edged koi pond would normally be enough to pique my interest in a destination.

At Blue Rock, however, there’s another factor at play—Chef Bin Lu.

Bin Lu, formerly of DC’s Pineapple and Pearl fame, trades in his chef whites to take on the blue mountains of Virginia. Partnering with the Farm at Sunnyside, he takes farm-to-table dining one step further. Earth to table and then back to the Earth once more. A culinary cycle worthy of Mother Nature’s stamp of approval—set within a boutique farmhouse inn whose backdrop is the ever-idyllic Blue Ridge Mountains.

Rappa-where?

Not long ago, I couldn’t even pronounce Rappahannock, let alone find it on a map. Who am I kidding? I still can’t say it and I’d still be driving in circles if not for Google. That said, having Blue Ridge mountain towns like Washington and Sperryville within striking distance of DC makes Rappahannock County an uber-convenient mini-break destination.

Taking advantage of its rich, natural beauty, Rappahannock County is dotted with wineries, inns, and farmlands. It’s steeped in American history. “Rappahannock” comes from the equally difficult-to-pronounce Algonquian word lappihanne which translates to ‘where the tide ebbs and flows.’ Ahhh, Virginia—for poets as well as lovers.

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Blue Rock, The Inn

I’m visiting Blue Rock for one night only. And from the moment I walk onto the patio, I regret I don’t have one more. The mountains, layered in their namesake color, are mesmerizing. Blue Rock can certainly be a one-night destination, with fireside drinks, Chef Bin’s four-course menu, and a nightcap at the bar. But two nights would give me more time to savor it, I think, as well as a chance to wander the countryside and little towns.

Once a 19th-century working farm, Blue Rock has been converted into an inn with five stately and lovingly-designed rooms. Scene-stealing wallpapers adorn the walls, including one of my favorites by Cole&Son Fornasetti called Nuvolette.

A combination of cozy contemporary French-inspired furniture mixed with traditional accents and touches of bronze make each room an individual gem. With literary names like Walden, Thornton, and Hawkins, I want to come back with the latest Ann Patchett novel and try them all.

At Blue Rock, It’s All In The Details

The main house is classically beautiful, simple, and intimate. I admire the expertly-curated details as I walk around. A wooden chess board. A braided floor lamp. A stack of carefully chosen architecture books. In my room, I fall in love with the dark, slightly eerie, floral bathroom wallpaper, wishing I had the guts to be so bold in my own home.

Patterns overlap patterns that shouldn’t work together but somehow do. The artwork is clearly hand-picked—the kind of pieces I’d be giddy about if I’d found them at an estate sale. The discoveries go on as I linger in each room and explore the common spaces.

But perhaps the most intriguing area is the private dining room with its overly low, post and beam ceilings, overly tall fireplace, and garden-inspired wallpaper. The space has ‘celebration’ written all over it. With seating for up to 12 guests, the host can work with Chef Bin to create a menu destined to elegantly mark any milestone birthday or anniversary.

PC: Blue Rock

Meet Rappahannock County’s New Chef

Earlier in the day, I’d had a chance to meet Chef Bin. I asked him how he finds his inspiration for the menu. He told me, “Blue Rock is an expression of what is already here.” Another poetic sentiment. It’s clear the mineral-rich Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia have much to do with the food plated at Blue Rock. Chef Bin creates his distinct dishes around them.

Later, he tells me he often revises a dish as the night goes on—evolving the presentation and balance of ingredients in real-time. This is a stark contrast to the rigid, tweezer-plated meals some might come to expect with tasting menus of this caliber.

One Night and Four Courses at Blue Rock

Before dinner, I sit on a lawn chair to admire the late-setting sun with a cocktail from the bar. The vineyards and koi pond in the distance add multiple layers of beauty to the scene. I meet up with my friend and we head inside, excitedly anticipating the meal ahead.

An amuse-bouche of puréed greens as fresh as the farm itself appears first. No doubt some of the herbs and ‘weeds’ I saw at the farm market this morning have made their way into this energizing first taste.

The four courses that follow are alike in their refusal to be fussy, despite the pretty plating. Yet, they are wildly diverse in their flavors and textures. There are two options for each course, and in most cases, we divide and conquer in order to sample them all.

Choices Abound at Blue Rock

I start with a Warm Mushroom Chawanmushi. The menu tells me the herbs, vegetables, and greens are sourced from The Farm at Sunnyside. Until my recent dinner at Kappo Makoto, in DC, I’d never heard of this traditional Japanese dish. The balance of salty and sweet in Chef Bin’s interpretation of steamed egg custard is a pure expression of umami. My friend starts with the Ike Jime Fluke Crudo layered with pickled vegetables and tempura flakes that give the dish a subtle crunch.

The second course is a choice of Saffron Rice Pilaf with Tsar Nicoulai Trout Row and Sweet Corn Agnolotti with Button Chanterelles. I don’t know who Tsar Nicoulai is but his trout roe brings a supreme pop of color and flavor to the creamy rice. The pasta is equally flavorful and becomes my favorite bite of the night.

For the third course, I choose the Roasted Atlantic Halibut with Sauce Meunière because I’m intrigued by the accompanying zucchini millefeuille. The plating is approachable, not labored, and the sauce is just rich enough not to overpower the delicate fish. The ribbon of zucchini is a delicious and theatrical flourish.

Dinner is paced to perfection, giving us time to catch up and enjoy the well-chosen wine pairing. The room seats only 32 people, yet it has a convivial buzz. Twinkle lighting on the outdoor dining patio adds to the ambiance and view.

Blue Rock and The Farm, A Brilliant Partnership

The next morning, with Chef Bin’s four courses firmly behind me, I have time to reflect. I recall my conversation with Nik who’d told me about the relationship between Sunnyside and Blue Rock. While we had not left any food behind last night, if we had, all scraps and waste would have been returned to Sunnyside for composting.

Nik had told me the story of an unintentional experiment in composting. One season, they had only enough compost to fertilize half of their hot peppers. When it came time to pick them, the difference in growth was astonishing. The peppers which had had the benefit of the compost were nearly double the size of the non-composted peppers.

This brilliant food cycle benefits all involved—the planet, the produce, the farmer, the chef, and the diners. Did this make me feel even better about my meal at Blue Rock? Absolutely.

Coming Full Circle, at Blue Rock

Chef Bin Lu’s culinary finesse shines bright at Blue Rock. His dedication to sourcing unique ingredients from local farms speaks volumes about his commitment to flavor, nutrition, sustainability, and the dining experience as a whole. Blue Rock’s Earth-conscious philosophy extends beyond the plate, as it takes sustainable dining to new heights—creating a full-circle approach that epitomizes the notion that what we eat and where it comes from matters.

My Blue Rock mini-break was more than the sweet little inn and farmhouse dinner I’d expected. The combination of lovely rooms, tranquil views, and welcoming staff was only the beginning.

Chef Bin’s closed loop between Blue Rock and farms like Sunnyside makes the difference between having dinner and having a dining experience. Not a fussy, formal experience—but one filled with highlights between the courses.

One that allows for a touch of serendipity, a few surprises, and a yes, a bit of poetry.

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Disclaimer: Although Blue Rock kindly hosted me for my stay, all opinions stated are my own. As always, I’ll only recommend places I fully believe in. I fully endorse any affiliate links above.

October 5, 2023
Hacienda AltaGracia in Costa Rica is the best choice for wellness
Hacienda AltaGracia is the Costa Rican wellness resort everyone is talking about. Never-ending choices of activities and treatments to nourish mind and body in a tropical, fairy-tale setting. THE WELL, Hacienda AltaGracia’s spa, is a sanctuary within a sanctuary. Good luck choosing between wellness experiences, off-property excursions, where to eat, what to eat, or where to lounge.

There are more than enough choices at Hacienda AltaGracia, an Auberge Resort. There just isn’t enough time.

Our twin-engine Cessna glides over the mountainous interior of Costa Rica. It’s 6am. The sun is skimming the tree tops, and a misty translucent glow is rising above them. Clouds are weaving in and out of view. The deafening roar of the engines makes conversation impossible, so my friend and I sit back and soak up the verdant landscape. Thirty minutes later, our plane dips over the Talamanca Mountains toward our destination—a grassy airstrip at the base of Costa Rica’s newest wellness resort, Hacienda AltaGracia.
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Wellness is always trending at Hacienda AltaGracia

Wellness was once a word synonymous with woo-woo. Is it still? These days, I dare you to find a resort that doesn’t have ‘wellness’ listed in its menu bar. Not just for Los Angelenos anymore, wellness is for everyone. Why shouldn’t it be? Taking care of ourselves from the inside out feels good. There are far worse things trending these days. I have teenagers, bad trends appear in my house daily.

Lisa and I are heading to the mother of all wellness resorts—THE WELL in Costa Rica at Hacienda AltaGracia.

THE WELL, Costa Rica

We’ve come to Hacienda AltaGracia exclusively for THE WELL, one of the most recently opened spas to take on wellness and well-being. In addition to this Costa Rica location, THE WELL has multiple locations in Auberge Resorts around the world, including a stand-alone spa in New York City.

THE WELL is known for combining Eastern and Western healing practices, meditation, body treatments, and holistic treatments. It’s quickly becoming one of the world’s most sought-after wellness experiences. Hacienda AltaGracia opened in November 2021 and is leading the wellness way in Costa Rica.

Perched at the highest point of Hacienda AltaGracia’s 180 lush, tropical acres, THE WELL encompasses over 20,000 square feet of naturally lit space. It’s jaw-dropping. I made a point to watch guests enter it for the first time and count gasps. Everyone gasped. Some gasped twice. It’s that impressive.

THE WELL overlooks the Talamanca mountains, a range that contains both Costa Rica and Panama’s highest peaks. Architecturally, the setting not only exudes calm and serenity but intentionally seeks to bring the outdoors in.

Three oversized windowed walls surround an oversized tranquility pool that always mirrors the sky. Two symmetrical square hot tubs flank the pool. This double-tub feature erases the awkwardness of having to make polite hot tub chit-chat with a stranger. I’m a self-proclaimed chit-chatter. But I have two firm exceptions: airplanes and hot tubs.

What exactly does one do at THE WELL?

At the risk of exceeding my self-imposed 2500-word limit, allow me to list some of the many treatments available at THE WELL, Costa Rica. I didn’t have time to partake in all of these treatments, mind you. Even if I did, I wouldn’t have enough money left to cover my cable bill. (That said, many services and treatments are included in the room rate. Yes, that’s 100% true!)

WELL, WELL, WELL

• Join a visiting master for a guided meditation or a breathing session. Book a one-on-one session later to deep dive into your past life or refine your breathing technique.

• Try botanical yoga.

• Connect with your senses by taking a forest and crystal bath (that’s not a typo). Hacienda AltaGracia has a 700-pound crystal quartz on the property where guests can partake in an integrative energy healing session.

• Find a spot on a warm marble slab and take an ethereal lunar gong bath. Later, head back to the spa for a sunset swim or aromatherapy steam.

• Opt for traditional spa treatments: Swedish massage, hot-stone therapy, or cranial massage, for example.

• Push outside of your comfort zone with less-common treatments: Maderoterapia or Wood Therapy is a traditional Central American practice. Or Hierbas y Flores, a nature-infused experience that incorporates native flowers and massage.

This list is by no means complete. Nor, do you have to sign up for any treatments in order to enjoy THE WELL. I spent time there with a book on a lounge chair trying to read. Unfortunately, I was constantly distracted by the surroundings and found myself over-posting on Instagram. This did defeat the concept of relaxation a wee bit. Anything for my followers!

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THE WELL has more choices than my cleansed mind can compute. Would I like a light, medium, or heavy cotton waffle robe from The Robe Bar? Would I like my custom clay body mask mixed with parsley, sage, rosemary, or thyme? Choice—the wellness luxury that just might ruin my wellness experience. Once I accept that there are only good choices, I calm down.

Beyond THE WELL at Hacienda AltaGracia

Wellness is not limited to treatments at Hacienda AltaGracia. Wellness is slow-cooked oat and quinoa porridge with local honeycomb, berries, and cocoa nibs while watching a charm of hummingbirds. It’s self-guided yoga on our expansive villa deck, listening to frogs croak. Wellness is my morning green juice from Mercado and my evening cocktail at the bar.

Since this is Lisa’s second visit to Hacienda AltaGracia, she takes over the trip’s itinerary. As much as I love to plan, having someone whose travel sensibilities I trust to do it for me is a welcome change. (For the record, I trust my husband’s travel spidey-sense too—in case he reads this and feels slighted.)

A Bath upon Arrival

After landing, we head directly to Mercado—the most non-lobby resort lobby I’ve yet to see. Mercado is part of a highly curated boutique and part of the Friends-style Central Perk. The café has homemade pastries, specialty coffee, juices, quiche, and other baked goods available all day at no cost. Lisa discovers her love of sparkling espresso while I devour cookies like a greedy toddler.

We are gently whisked from Mercado to one of the property’s signature treatments: The River Bath, an immersive outdoor nature-filled experience. An overgrown flower-filled path leads to a warm stone-edged plunge pool beside a cool stone-edged river. Over two hours, we toggle back and forth between the two, looking to cleanse our auras as the treatment advertises. Butterflies surround us. We slot into their habitat with ease.

Wellness, as a travel trend, isn’t limited to people who are fully invested in mindfulness and meditation. It’s good old-fashioned well-being. Resorts like Hacienda AltaGracia appeal to everyone from yogi masters to once-a-year meditators. How you spend time at this tropical Costa Rica wellness resort is your choice. And choices abound.

Over four days, Lisa and I find that critical balance of physical activity, mindfulness, and relaxation. Oh, and eating. That activity is not quite as balanced as the others. At Hacienda AltaGracia, all food is included in the room rate, so we choose to consume everything the menus offer. Cold-marinated Pacific prawns or prawn-filled blue corn tortillas? Both, please. And throw in an order of tuna tiradito, pan-fried line fish, and beef empanadas, if you don’t mind. They don’t mind.

Difficult choices at Hacienda AltaGracia

There are multiple places to dine and drink throughout the property. Grano is the main restaurant with both indoor and outdoor options that are equally inviting. El Cultivo, just beside Grano, is Hacienda AltaGracia’s organic garden. Lunch is served at Las Brisas, one of two open-air poolside restaurants. The food is healthy, but not the tasteless calorie-limited kind of healthy generally associated with spa trips.

I can anticipate the next question. Yes, they serve alcohol at Hacienda AltaGracia! I say this for those who hear the words ‘wellness resort’ and assume they’ll have to smuggle in alcohol.

Wait, you’ve never done that? Me neither.

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For horse lovers only

I’ve never been a horse person. But Hacienda AltaGracia has quite a set-up for those who are. If you don’t like horses, skip ahead. I don’t mind.

Hacienda AltaGracia’s traditional horse show and dinner, Cienfuegos, is an ongoing event at their modern-designed stables. The 42 Peruvian, Spanish, and Costa Rican horses are living their best lives, and they look like they know it.

Lanterns and fire pits are among the sole sources of light. A band of musicians performs low-key background music. After an hour of cocktails and polite chit-chat (a totally acceptable time for chit-chat) at the immaculate stables, we enter the barn and are seated communally for a family-style dinner. Roasted meats, salads, and veggies prepared Costa Rican style keep us satiated. Wine is poured, and the horse show begins.

The riders entertain the crowd with their control of prancing horses. The atmosphere gets livelier with each round of performances (enhanced by each round of drinks). It’s a festive peek into Costa Rican equestrian tradition. Afterward, we take a golf cart back to the villa to dream of horses. Not me, mind you, but I’m sure many people did.

It sounds cheesy, right? But it’s actually totally fun and festive.

Early Mornings at Hacienda AltaGracia

Lisa organized two super early off-property activities so that we could eat the rest of the day without guilt. I despise early wake-ups. Lisa loves them. It’s surprising we are friends. That said, once I was up (and caffeinated), my anger disappeared. Almost.

Rising before the sun has its pluses. Like seeing the sunrise, for one! Another is the early morning sounds and stillness of nature. One morning we take a 7-mile hike to Roca de Nubes and spot a troop of elusive spider monkeys. Wildlife—another plus of early rising.

The following day we hike to a series of three gushing waterfalls. Our guide asks us to choose (again with the choices!) which one we’d like to swim beneath. The answer for me is none. I may have taken the polar plunge in Antarctica earlier this year, but take my word on this, the water in Costa Rica is much colder. Lisa fully embraces the invigorating experience while I merely dip my toes like the water wimp that I am.

Welcome to the jungle

I take a look around. The landscape around Hacienda AltaGracia is rich in texture. Layers upon layers of prehistorically oversized leaves with stencil-like cutouts, palms, ferns, and fruit-filled banana trees. Dramatic low-hanging clouds drape the Talamanca mountains in the distance. Swallow-tailed Kites soar. As the sun descends, the vegetation takes on a warm hue. What was initially shades of green now appear orange, yellow, and red.

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Villa Life at Hacienda AltaGracia

Hacienda AltaGracia’s 50 villas are built into the Costa Rican jungle—seemingly absorbed by it. This makes it feel like a private, remote hideaway. The property is so lovingly nestled in the jungle that the wildlife doesn’t even seem to notice. Hawks swoop overhead and kaleidoscopic-colored butterflies swirl around us.

Our villa’s veranda has a heated plunge pool that overlooks mountainous layers in the distance. Because Lisa wakes up at 4am she always gets to the daybed first. I forgive her.

The living space is lounge-y and inviting, with stacked coffee table books, cushy throws, binoculars, and birding books for bird nerds like me. It has a walk-in closet larger than my first apartment in NYC and a full bar for us to pour drinks as needed. Heated water bottles magically appear tucked under the covers of the beds each evening. If the villa is designed to keep us there, we fail miserably. There is just too much to do.

At Hacienda AltaGracia, it’s your vacation, your choice

On our last night, we have drinks on Grano’s patio with Valerie, one of the visiting wellness masters. Her inherent sense of humor and lightness takes the edge off the woo-woo. We gather around the fire pit at sunset for a release-burning ceremony.

It’s an opportunity to rid ourselves of ‘something that no longer serves us’ by throwing a personal note into the flames. A few husbands attempt to escape, but Valerie lures them back. One by one we throw our paper into the fire and watch it burn. With clear minds and empty stomachs, we head in for dinner.

You don’t have to be a life coach, herbalist, spiritual influencer, or accomplished sound bather in order to have a restorative experience at Hacienda AltaGracia. Everyone can use a few days to reset, recharge, and reload. Whatever your vacation is calling for, there are opportunities to fulfill it at Hacienda AltaGracia. The choices are annoyingly endless.

Well-being and wellness go hand in hand. I can’t think of a better trend to embrace. And you need not go to a luxurious tropical jungle resort in the heart of Costa Rica to do it.

But should you have the choice, it’s certainly a lot more fun.

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Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.
October 5, 2023
This Pendry Hotel is Baltimore’s Ultimate Community Center

Community centers are public spaces where people gather for activities, social support, and public information. The introduction of radio, TV, and the internet may have downgraded the need for community centers, but they were local lifelines at one point. “What does this have to do with Baltimore’s Sagamore Pendry Hotel?” you might be asking. Be patient—I’m getting there.

Rec Pier: A Brief History

The Sagamore Pendry Hotel was originally a former cargo warehouse located at the top of Recreation Pier in Baltimore’s Fells Point neighborhood. ‘Rec Pier’ was once the hub of this waterside community. Over the century since it was built, Rec Pier served, among other things, as an immigrant landing point, meeting place, and dance hall—a center for community members, young and old.

The thriving pier and red brick Beaux-Arts building eventually fell into disrepair. It would take vast amounts of time, money, and vision to restore it to its maritime grandeur. With Kevin Plank, a Maryland native and founder of Baltimore-based Under Armour, at the heart of the narrative, the Sagamore Pendry’s roots as a community center are reimagined in vivid color. Every facet of the hotel pays tribute to its foundation as a place where people gather. It’s as if the ground itself has passed on its energy.

Kevin Plank and designer-in-chief Patrick Sutton return the Sagamore Pendry to a center for the community and a sanctuary for guests. Visiting the hotel is a lesson in history, art, music, architecture, and style. With the addition of welcoming and warm hospitality, there’s ample reason to visit Baltimore’s chicest city hotel.

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Welcome to Fells Point

Fells Point was a colonial maritime community founded by shipbuilder William Fell in 1726. More than 600 ships were built between the Colonial Era and the Civil War, including the U.S. frigate, ‘Constellation.’

The day I pull up to the Sagamore Pendry Hotel, I’ve yet to know its rich past, but I can certainly sense it. The area looks and feels historical—like I’ve stumbled back in time. Though historical, Fells Point has a distinct edge. With its vinyl record stores and oyster bars, I question whether I’m cool enough to be here.

I’m visiting the Sagamore Pendry for two nights—a solo trip. Two nights alone are the vacation equivalent of two weeks with anyone else. Don’t believe me? Ask any parent. Baltimore is only an hour from where I live in DC. Spending two nights getting to know the property and its historic surroundings appeals to the researcher in me. Admiring the art, architecture, and design appeals to my inner aesthete.

They say the streets of historic Fells Point are filled with restless spirits. For those who’d like to get under the surface of this maritime neighborhood where pirates once walked the cobbled lanes and Edgar Allen Poe found poetic inspiration, look no further than Baltimore Ghost Tours. The tour meeting point is only steps away from the Sagamore Pendry—a riveting way to uncover Baltimore’s eerie past.

A Likely Question

During my hotel travels, and by that, I mean traveling within the hotel, I meet Juan Webster. The general manager is easy to spot, being as comfortable in his castle as any reigning king. Juan’s genuine warmth and energy make him imminently likable.

“What makes the Sagamore Pendry Hotel so unique?” I ask him.

“It’s the people that make this place special,” he says without missing a beat.

My cynical side writes this off as a stock answer. Doesn’t every GM feel this way? Clearly, I need to hone my interviewing techniques. But then I recall meeting Rob this morning—the private investigator turned curbside valet. He told me he’d hung up his PI hat only to discover he wasn’t done working just yet. Greeting guests upon arrival suits his post-retirement lifestyle these days.

I gather Rob is one of the people Juan is referring to. My cynical side is about to take a beating.

Pendry?

Is this the first time you’ve heard of the Pendry? If so, consider this your formal introduction. Pendry is a luxury hospitality brand brought to life by founders Alan J. and Michael Fuerstman. This dynamic father-son duo is also responsible for Montage Resorts, which includes family getaways like Palmetto Bluff in South Carolina and Big Sky in Montana. Unlike Montage properties, Pendry Hotels are typically city-based. They purposely and purposefully lean into the local community in which they reside.

This is my first Pendry. And by the time I’ve said goodbye to Rob and my bags, I know it won’t be my last. Lyrics of the Star-Spangled Banner dominate the hotel entry, cut into an oversized metal latticework. Valet Rob mentions America’s most famous ballad was penned not 100 yards from where we are standing. Say what you will about Francis Scott Key, this anthemic welcome is hard to beat.

This Pendry Hotel is A Baltimore Icon

The dimly lit ramp towards reception is a sharp contrast to the Baltimore sun beaming brightly outside. Ever the puzzler, I begin to decipher the brass icons lining the narrow corridor. Maryland references like an Oriole, Edgar Allen Poe, an anchor, and a blue crab are pretty clear-cut.

But I’m stumped by three stacked rectangles. Is this an inside joke for Marylanders? Later I discover I was stumped by a stoop. Stooping, according to Urban Dictionary, is ‘the act of hanging out in a group of three or more on a stoop.’ Ahhhh, the three stacked rectangles represent the ubiquitous marble steps of Fells Points’ original rowhouses. In a world where we’re glued to technology and it’s too hot to go outside anyway, stooping is a lost art.

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Pendry = Sophistication

If I had to describe the Sagamore Pendry Hotel with one adjective, it would be sophisticated. Thankfully, I’m a writer, and I can use all the adjectives I’d like, but I’d go as far as to say the Pendry Hotel ups the ante on sophistication. Follow as I tour the hotel, using adjectives galore to describe the highlights.

The Lobby Lounge

It seems every hotel these days differentiates itself with a signature scent, and in this way, the Pendry Hotel is no different. The blend of santal and cypress, with woody, amber-infused notes, creates a sense of memory Pendry hopes will stay with guests long after they leave the hotel. This can easily be facilitated, however, by buying a Pendry candle upon departure.

The Sagamore Pendry’s lobby feels like a buzzy living room, enhanced by natural, unfiltered light and warm mahogany wood tones. A painting by Baltimore street artist, Gaia, soars above the room in dynamic color. It depicts the face of Francis Scott Key and the hands of the two women who sewed the famous flag, Mary Pickersgill and her indentured servant, Grace Wisher.

Inviting clubby leather chairs adds to the familial and convivial vibe. Guests settle in for the morning with coffee and old-school newspapers, striking up conversations with others nearby. The hotel lobby is reconceived as a living space leaning into its past as a social hub under Mr. Key’s watchful gaze.

The Cannon Room

Hidden in plain sight, I challenge you to find the Cannon Room without asking Juan. I seek out the barrel-shaped bar to spot the WW2 cannon I learned was unearthed during renovation. Others will likely seek it out for its locally crafted American whiskey, but due to an unfortunate incident in high school, spirits are not my thing. If they are yours, you won’t be disappointed.

Rec Pier Chop House

The Sagamore Pendry’s main restaurant is a cavernous Italian steak house with chef Andrew Carmalini at the kitchen’s helm. Mr. Sutton’s clever use of architectural screens and circular banquettes divide the space. It evokes a sense of mystery I imagine even Edgar Allen Poe would appreciate. A scene-stealing windowed arch acts as a portal to the cobbled streets of Fells Point.

My New York Strip is prepared just as I like it, and I order a bold glass of red to match its bold flavor. A few bar stools down from me, I meet Suzanne—a like-minded food lover. I learn she also lives in DC and we chit-chat about the hotel, food, and travel. When I travel solo, I chit-chat like there’s no tomorrow. Suzanne gets an earful.

For Foodies Only: Click here to find out about Fells Point Culinary Food Tours!

The Courtyard

Linking the lobby to the pool via a long indoor/outdoor atrium is the Pendry’s courtyard. The passageway has cozy fire pits for cooler months and a birch tree-lined escape for warmer ones. Twinkling lights add a touch of dazzle, but the real star is the Moët & Chandon vending machine. Form follows function at this ever-instagrammable courtyard fixture. Get a token at reception and simply ‘Push for champagne.’

A larger-than-life, puffy bronze horse blocks my path to the pool. An impressive Botero—who I immediately forgive because he’s so adorable—all 3500 pounds of him. A couple asks me to take their photo in front of the massive steed. “It’s our first date,” she whispers, and I can’t help but feel like I might be documenting a pivotal moment in their lives. I think back to Juan, and the people he says makes the place. I’m starting to believe.

The Pool

Sitting at the tip of what was once Rec Pier is the proverbial cherry on top of Maryland’s Smith Island cake—the Pendry Hotel pool. “Let’s embrace the city, smokestacks and all!” it roars with pride.

The infinity-edged pool faces the harbor that thrums with industry. Schooners zigzag with the wind, their crisp white sails a striking contrast to the factory-lined backdrop. Battleship gray battleships loom. There’s no better spot to soak up the Baltimore sun than poolside with a tall Bloody Mary sprinkled with Old Bay seasoning, naturally.

A man swims by, smiling and eager to engage. His office is a few blocks away, so he comes to the pool weekly to relax. “I’m in my happy place here,” he says with no irony and only a small trace of inebriation. A worthy OOO, for sure.

Rooms and Suites

Among the 128 rooms and suites at the Pendry Hotel, I’m fortunate to call a Harbor Balcony Suite my home for a few days. ‘Sophisticated’ once again enters my mind as an apt description. As do other adjectives like refined, understated, and polished. The dark wood, stately bedding, and brass accents make me want to redesign my house.

The marble wall behind a deep standalone tub makes me want to gut-renovate my master bath. The highly curated artwork makes me want to go overboard at Art Basel. Mr. Sutton, this trip is going to cost me.

Click here to learn about Baltimore’s Inner Harbor Sightseeing Cruises!

Every Building Tells A Story

The Sagamore Pendry Hotel finds a way to build upon the past while living firmly in the present. Its amenities appeal to the modern city traveler and millennial alike. Between Rob, the valet, Suzanne, the lawyer, the couple on their first date, and the slightly tipsy swimmer, I take back my cynicism. It really does seem like the people are what makes the Pendry tick.

What is a hotel if not a microcosm of a community? The Sagamore Pendry’s story reveals far more than a typical hotel. A social hub, a place to mingle and mix. The heartbeat of an uber-cool, gritty neighborhood.

With local, cutting-edge Baltimore artists showcased and found objects on display, the hotel carves out a new niche in hotel design and purpose. One that mirrors the history of the place in which it resides.

Every building has a story to tell. The Sagamore Pendry’s narrative is multi-faceted, layered, and complex. Part history, part mystery, and infused with romance and legend, the Pendry Hotel takes the city of Baltimore as its muse. No guest will leave without sensing the community center roots at its core. In the end, it’s all about the people.

But I guess you already know that, Juan.

Ready To Book Your Stay at The Sagamore Pendry? Click Here!

Disclaimer: Although the Sagamore Pendry Hotel kindly hosted me for my stay, all opinions stated are my own. As always, I’ll only recommend places I fully believe in. Please note a few affiliate links above for which I may receive a small referral fee. But rest assured, I only highlight products I fully stand behind.

August 31, 2023

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