I am Lost and Found

Category: Stay

5 Travel Wish List Destinations That Will Inspire

I am Lost and Found’s original tagline was ‘Luxury Travel.’ Over the years my travel tastes evolved and ‘luxury travel’ felt limiting. Plus, I wasn’t only traveling to luxury hotels anymore. So I changed it to ‘Adventure and Luxury Travel.’ Eventually, even that felt limiting. I thought about the goals of my site. I am Lost and Found inspires travel—so ‘Inspiring Travel’ it is. Ready for inspiration? Follow along for five travel wish list destinations I’m dreaming about right now.

It’s another sticky, steamy day in DC. I should be doing something productive. Instead, I’m at my local coffee shop sipping an iced latte and daydreaming about future travels. I spin the globe in my mind. Green continents and blue oceans swirl together like a Van Gogh immersion experience. It takes my attention away from today’s news where most of the world is covered in a sheath of orange and red.

I pause over Norway—an appealing place right now for obvious reasons. Breathing crisp, cool, Arctic air sounds blissful. I take another sip of coffee and add it to my travel wish list, suddenly energized to write.

I keep spinning the globe. The next few hours unfold easily.

Join me as I waste time. Time that could be spent figuring out the dinner my kids will complain about least or watching the next intestine-twisting episode of The Bear. Read along for the next installment of my top five travel wish list destinations. Lord knows my husband will regret he didn’t join me this morning. This post is going to cost him.

Travel Wish List: 5 / Manshausen Island, Norway

A telling indicator a place belongs on my travel wish list is when I can’t contain my emotions after discovering it. Those times I frantically fire off picturesque screen grabs to my husband, Daniel, and impatiently wait for a thumbs-up emoji—eager to book it before he can blink. This is exactly how I feel when I look at Manshausen Island’s website. Obsessed.

Manshausen’s seven modern sea cabins and two sea towers hover over the water. Glass windows take full advantage of the spectacular views. It’s easy to see why the sea cabins have won so many design awards. They’ve adopted a ‘compact living’ mentality, focusing on comfort and ‘calm minimalism’. I’ve never heard of calm minimalism but I’d love to book a one-way ticket there and never look back.

Where is Manshausen Island?

Manshausen is a 55-acre island off the coast of northern Norway, across the fjord of the Lofoten Islands. In the late 1600s, Manhausen was a trading post. Today, it’s owned by famous polar explorer, writer, and photographer, Børge Ousland who turned Manshausen into one of the world’s best-kept secret adventure destinations.

I deep dive into Børge Ousland’s Wikipedia page. Ousland began his career as a Norwegian Special Forces Officer. In 1994, he made the first unsupported trek to the North Pole from Russia’s Arctic Cape. Then, as if that wasn’t bad-ass enough, in 1996 Børge Ousland was the first person to cross Antarctica solo. That he did it unsupported, on skis, and over 58 days makes my head spin like the globe I was daydreaming about earlier. Oh, and then he got married at the North Pole in 2012. Ok, Børge, simmer.

What to do on Manshausen Island?

Some activities on Manshausen Island abide by the seasons while others are enjoyed year-round. Sea kayaking, fishing, trekking, mountain climbing, traversing, cave touring, and eagle spotting are just a few of the Nordic adventures on hand. Add on wellness and culinary programs that touch upon all of the senses and it’s pretty clear why this island north of the Arctic Circle is so captivating.

Børge Ousland notwithstanding, visitors don’t need to be polar explorers or Special Ops to fall for Manshausen. Coastal museums, fortresses, fishing villages, and the original 1690 trading post are travel-worthy attractions nearby. Personally, I’d be content sitting at my panoramic sea cabin window with a cozy blanket, the latest Ann Patchett novel, and a glass of wine.

USP (Unique Selling Point) #1: The Northern Lights in the winter or the midnight sun in the summer? How to choose when to visit this Arctic escape from reality? Manshausen Island will just have to count as two travel wish list destinations. Do I see another thumbs-up, Daniel?

USP #2: Børge Ousland.

Click Here. Get My Wish List Destination Hot Sheet Free.

Travel Wish List: 4 / Katmai National Park, Alaska

I count eight brown bears wading in the current. I see two bear cubs lumbering over slick boulders, pawing one another like feisty toddlers. A gull swoops overhead catching the attention of mama bear, who is competing with another bear for a fishing spot. The gulls’ caws, the gurgling river, and the steady gush of waterfalls are the only discernable sounds.

I’m not at Katmai National Park, but oh how I wish I was. Instead, I’m one of 2393 wildlife ~~geeks~~ enthusiasts simultaneously viewing Alaskan brown bears on the Brooks Falls bear cam. I’ve been watching them for longer than you’d imagine possible and have even started giving names to my faves.

Where is Katmai National Park?

Located on the Alaskan peninsula across from Kodiak Island, Katmai National Park and Preserve is 300 miles south of Anchorage. Katmai was designated a national monument in 1918 in order to protect it after a volcanic eruption in 1912. The area, 18 volcanoes strong (seven active), is also known as the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Whoever’s in charge of Katmai’s branding deserves a raise. I’d visit based on the name of that valley alone.

What to do at Katmai National Park?

The bears are the main attraction in this incredibly remote and untamed part of the American wilderness. That’s why I want to go. I want a front-row seat to see Yogi, Baloo, and Teddy catch sockeye salmon in real-time. The grainy webcam footage, while highly addictive, just isn’t cutting it.

Katmai is one of the top ten least visited national parks in the United States with just under 25,000 tourists last year. Compare that to Yellowstone’s 3 million and I’ve easily uncovered another great reason to visit.

The park is home to more than 2000 Alaskan brown bears. Grizzlies are the smaller species of brown bears and live further inland. If bears aren’t your thing, feel free to move on to my next travel wish list entry. But, if bears aren’t your thing, we should reconsider our friendship. Just kidding, I have lots of friends who don’t like bears.

Flightseeing, boating, catch-and-release fishing, backcountry hiking, and camping make Katmai National Park a haven for adventure seekers. There aren’t enough luxury hotel products on Earth to get me to camp in the backcountry though. That’s where the grizzlies are! My adventure mindset has limits.

USP: Grizzly bears, Alaskan brown bears, bear cubs, bears catching sockeye salmon, bears swimming, bears frolicking beneath waterfalls, Yogi, Baloo, and Teddy…

Travel Wish List: 3 / Wildflower Farms, New York

Built in 2022, Wildflower Farms is a modern ode to the Hudson Valley. Its tranquil and serene landscape seems to have sprouted up like the wildflowers for which it is named. An all-season boutique property, Wildflower Farms has an epicurean program that celebrates the region and a wellness program that celebrates healthy living. It’s clear there is much to celebrate at Wildflower Farms.

Where is Wildflower Farms?

Those who hail from the East Coast will have likely heard of the Hudson Valley. Just 90 miles north of New York City, the Hudson Valley is so renowned for natural beauty, it inspired an artistic movement. In the 19th century, the Hudson River School was founded by Thomas Cole and other landscape artists who were influenced by Romanticism.

The Hudson River School’s realistic paintings depict a pastoral world where humans and nature coexist in harmony. A romantic notion indeed! With 65 free-standing cabins and cottages set on 140 secluded acres, Wildflower Farms, an Auberge property, artfully continues the movement’s philosophy of awe and wonder.

What to do at Wildflower Farms?

The valley’s Hudson School may have been heavily influenced by romance but Wildflower Farms appeals to both couples and families alike. There are so many activities I want to take part in I’m considering asking if I can be a summer intern. Fall intern? Carrot peeler?

I can tell that a weekend at Wildflower Farms won’t be enough time for me to express my inner artist. Do I take a class in Botanical Mixology or Botanical Baking? Should I make pressed flower pottery or bake floral focaccia?

How do I choose the best ways to activate my sporty side (yes, Daniel, I have a sporty side)? Do I fly fish or forage, e-bike, or wine taste? Wine tasting is a sport, right? I scan the wellness menu. What if I can’t fit in Mountain Mat Pilates or a Sound Bath? Champagne problems at Wildflower Farms abound.

USP: Ridge Suites have views of the Shawangunk Mountain Range interrupted only by fields of wildflowers. We can either climb the rugged Shawangunks, admire them from the suite’s floor-to-ceiling windows, or grab a brush and start painting. Given enough time, I would happily do all three.

Click Here. Get My Wish List Destination Hot Sheet Free.

Travel Wish List: 2 / ULUM Moab, Utah

Some of our favorite vacations have been to national parks located in desert locations: Joshua Tree, Canyonlands, and Arches, among them. We’ve stayed at AirBNBs, rustic lodges, and super swanky hotels. But glamping at ULUM Moab is a class of accommodation all its own.

For anyone not familiar with glamping, it means ‘glamourous camping’, a term open to wide interpretation. I’ve glamped in places that were a far cry from the ‘glamour’ advertised. ULUM Moab appears to have found the sweet spot for adventure and luxury to coexist.

Its 50 safari-styled tent suites have private viewing decks. There are three dipping pools, a yoga deck, and modern common spaces that embrace indoor/outdoor life. Add in Parachute Linens, Aesop products, and bespoke Pendleton wool blankets, and this glamping destination offers better amenities than most traditional hotels.

Where is ULUM Moab?

Located 25 miles south of Moab and within reach of multiple national and state parks, ULUM Moab is a secluded desert paradise. The camp is set on 200 acres of red rock formations and mesas and is just steps from Looking Glass Arch. ULUM Moab is the ultimate introduction to the beauty of the American Southwest.

What to do at ULUM Moab?

On-site activities at ULUM Moab range from relaxing guided nature walks, sound bath meditations, yoga, and stargazing. Your Adventure Concierge (yes, that’s a thing) will help curate off-site excursions like white-water river rafting, kayaking, paddleboarding, National Park tours, and canyoneering. If you haven’t canyoneered, you haven’t lived. It’s one of the funnest activities of all time (and yes, I’m aware funnest isn’t a real word).

At night, as you prepare to stargaze, sit by the bonfire and make polite chit-chat with other like-minded adventurers. Swap stories about the slot canyons you discovered while canyoneering or how you snored through the sound bath. Then grab your Pendleton blanket, a bottle of wine, and settle into the dark skies and constellations above.

USP: With 360 mountain views by day and starry skies by night, ULUM Moab has perfected glamping—the ultimate way to get comfortable in nature.

Travel Wish List: 1 / Dolomites, Italy

The last time my insides physically ached from witnessing natural beauty was a few summers ago in Jackson, Wyoming. The Tetons were so striking, so unbelievably scenic in their razor-cut jaggedness, that I was compelled to photograph them for hours each day. By day three, my husband wanted to feed me to the bears. If the Italian Dolomites are making my insides ache just from my Instagram feed, I can’t imagine what would happen if I saw them in real life.

Where are the Dolomites?

The Dolomites are a mountain range in northeastern Italy. They are sometimes referred to as the ‘Pale Mountains’ due to the carbonate minerals in the rocks. In 2009, they were officially named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Dolomites have been around for millennia. Why it took so long for UNESCO to recognize them is a mystery.

The Dolomites boast some of the most unique and beautiful hotels in the world. Many of them have won awards for design and architecture. The hotels are so swoon-worthy, I wouldn’t know how to choose one without having FOMO about the others.

What to do in the Dolomites?

While renowned for winter skiing, there is much to do in the Dolomites in the summer months, too. This mesmerizing mountain range is the center of the region’s universe. It’s where the luckiest hotels face and the point from which many adventure activities revolve.

Some of the hotels in the Dolomites defy gravity, like the ultra-modern Alpin Panorama Hotel Hubertus. Others, like Forestis, have mountain-facing private pools that make it impossible to leave the room. Aman’s Rosa Alpina (soon to reopen) embraces traditional alpine architecture and has a restaurant with three Michelin stars.

Climbing, hiking, waterfall chasing, rafting, and mountain biking will appease those with an adventurous spirit. Wellness retreats, spas, and woodland walks will satisfy those looking to reset and recharge.

USP: With over 20 Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, the Dolomites are a wish list destination for foodies, too.

Wasting Time

It’s hot in DC, and just about everywhere else in the world right now. I’m sure the oppressive heat has much to do with how these travel wish list destinations came about. Fresh, crisp, mountain air, fields of wildflowers, calm desert-scapes, and bear-filled streams are all pretty enticing right now.

I imagine myself sitting here next January—cupping my latte, complaining about the cold, and daydreaming about warmer climes. I’ll once again spin the globe in my mind, excited to see where I land, and ready to write another batch of travel wish list destinations.

Click Here. Get My Wish List Destination Hot Sheet Free.

Author’s Note: I am grateful to the hotels who kindly gave me high-res photos for use in this post. I’m also using Unsplash for the first time, and praise the photographers who are giving away their gorgeous photos for free. Typically, I only feature my own photos. But alas, if I had my own pictures of these wish list destinations, they wouldn’t be on my wish list.

July 30, 2023
Enchanted. Why Mii Amo is the best Sedona spa.

Mother/Daughter Adventures at the Best Sedona Spa

Air is air. Of course, it can be humid, dry, or wet. It can be conditioned or heated, still or sticky—the adjectives are endless. When I visited the Mii Amo spa in Sedona, I looked for words to describe the air. How did it feel? Neither crisp, nor brisk, nor thin, nor heavy. Then, it dawned on me. I wasn’t feeling anything. The air was imperceptible.

The beauty of not noticing the air is that my other senses are on much higher alert. Sounds become more pronounced, and colors more intense. Brilliant mesas and red rocks define the landscape of Sedona, which is about an hour-long drive from Scottsdale.

Along the drive to our Sedona resort and spa, Southern Arizona’s ubiquitous pale green Saguaro cacti were replaced by other shades of green. Prickly Pear cacti, cypress, sycamore, pine, and juniper trees took over the landscape. It was an arboreal introduction to the Sonoran Desert—our destination for the next few days—a Sedona spa tucked away in the desert wilderness.

Spa-bound, in Sedona

My mom, sister, and I were headed to Mii Amo, a resort and spa part of The Enchantment Resort in Sedona, Arizona. This gorgeous Sedona spa was awarded the #1 Best Destination Spa in the US for the second year in a row by Travel + Leisure Magazine. This coveted spa experience has the added luxury of being situated in one of the most alluring spots in the United States.

The famous ‘Red Rocks’ of Sedona surround Mii Amo. The resort and spa sit at an altitude of 4500 feet and are low in profile—nearly hidden in the Upper Sonoran Desert. It’s as if Arizona gave every architect in Sedona the same Benjamin Moore paint chips and said, ‘Please conform to the colors of the desert.’

Sedona’s Color and Light

Burnt reds, persimmons, ochres, and every shade of warmth in between live in Sedona, Arizona. But what makes the desert even more interesting are the clusters of unexpected and brazen greens. Sedona’s Verde Valley, or Green Valley, is named after the copper that was once mined in the area. The bold greens are a spectacular addition— an unanticipated contrast to the sun-lit rocks throughout the day.

The canyon walls are hundreds of millions of years of age. And comprised of nine staggering layers of stone. The receding oceans created the canyons. The result? Rock formations are a natural, visual wonderland. You need not be a geologist to appreciate the striations and layers of color and rock on museum-like display. Limestone, sandstone, and mud, among other elements, have made this piece of Arizona a literal hot spot.

As the light and shadows changed, I prepared to see something new emerge every hour. The mountain views never disappoint, whether with partly cloudy skies, cloudy skies, or full sun.

Click to get MY FREE SEDONA HOT SHEET, it’s FREE

Sedona’s Vistas, views, and Vortexes

Mii Amo means ‘one’s path or journey’. Feeling grateful to be guests at the best spa in Sedona, we decided to get started on that journey right away. My sister and I hiked to Vista Point around 6pm on our first evening in Sedona.

As an added convenience, guests can access many hiking paths from the property itself. The sun was already dipping towards the west. And our short hike to the viewpoint took about 20 minutes via a well-beaten red dirt path. We were told to look for a tree hugging itself,’ as that was a known vortex site. Upon reaching the point, however, it looked like every gnarled and twisted juniper was hugging itself.

The entire area is thought to be a vortex. A vortex is a swirling center of energy that many believe has healing and spiritual powers. Not one to deny an area of its spiritual power, I sat against a rock and decided to channel some positive energy.

Piles of delicate toppling rock cairns dotted the point, each one quietly declaring, ‘I was here!’. The silence was all-encompassing—a drastic change from my daily life in DC.

Desert Life at Sedona’s Best Spa

The setting sun was piercing and lit the upper third of the mountain range on fire. Whether or not one believes in the healing powers of the vortexes (or vortices, as I’ve recently learned), it was impossible not to feel inspired and restored there— the views were unparalleled.

I enjoyed it so much that I returned each day at different times. Once, I ventured out as early as 5am to catch sight of the hot air balloons that hovered over the distant mesa.

I was on high alert, ready to walk into a herd (aka squadron) of wild javelinas as I had done with my sister on our first hike. Rodent or pig? Neither, surprisingly. They are just strange 60-pound hairy mammals that roam the area.

I was reminded of the ROUS (Rodents Of Unusual Size) from the film The Princess Bride. Luckily, javelinas aren’t smart and have poor eyesight. Needless to say, I made it back to the resort unharmed.

Despite that encounter, my sister and I returned the next day. This time, our efforts were rewarded by finding a solo flutist upon a tall red rock. We were told he plays there often. However, we counted ourselves lucky to catch a performance. His ethereal music caught the wind and soared across the valley. It was mesmerizing.

Coffee Pot and other rocks around Sedona

Another day, we hired a local guide, an Apache Native American, and explored for a few hours. He was a proud man, a bit gruff, but very knowledgeable about the area.

From George, we learned to differentiate between the Prickly Pear and Agave plants. We learned how to loosen the nut from the cone of a pinola tree. And the different mating calls of the male quail. Our three-mile hike brought us past Coffee Pot and other luminous rock formations. We paused at an ancient birthing place and reflected on the size of the canyons around us.

A Peek Inside The Best Spa In Sedona

Sixteen casitas, some with hot tubs and indoor and outdoor fireplaces, are offered at Mii Amo. There’s a small juice bar, a café, a boutique, indoor/outdoor pools, and a gym. And, of course, the highly-regarded spa treatment area. The spa experience at Mii Amo is small and intimate. While the spa is only a short walk from Enchantment (its larger, family-friendly sibling), this Sedona spa feels a world away.

The rooms were clean and modern but felt dated and needed a facelift. Soon, a complete overhaul is expected to be revealed. Watch this space.

Click here for my Sedona Hot Sheet. It’s FREE

Spa food reframed

The food at the café exceeded our expectations. For me, the inherent nature of ‘spa food’ has been synonymous with being tasteless. I was proven wrong at Mii Amo. Unsurprisingly, the best spa in Sedona would also have the best spa food.

Spinach, mushroom, and tomato frittatas. Almond chickpea pancakes with lemon ricotta, berries, and prickly pear syrup. Welcome to breakfast! A hearty but healthy way to get my day started. While caffeine and alcohol might be against the rules for some spas, they were readily available to the spa-goers of Mii Amo. I am not one of those people who can start my day without a kick of caffeine. Thank you, Mii Amo.

At This Sedona Spa, Three’s a charm

The front entrance of Mii Amo’s resort and spa is dramatic, with massive rock formations looming above. There is a shaded area of trees that are teeming with hummingbird activity. Attracted by the hanging feeders, I was told that at any given time of day, I would see at least a ‘charm’ of hummingbirds jostling for nectar.

Just a few steps beyond the entry, the Crystal Grotto is a small, cave-like room with a round opening to the sky. Here, one can sit peacefully in thought or be led in meditation by a guide.

Wanting to take advantage of the enchanting Sedona vibes, I went in a few times to enjoy the comforting sound of running water. Anytime I could find a moment of restoration or calm I was up for it, this was part of the reason I was here, after all.

The Sedona Spa: Juice life

At Mii Amo, our hardest daily decision was deciding which smoothie or juice to try. A rough life in the desert, for sure! My favorites were the Maca Smoothie (banana, almond butter, maca powder) and Renew Juice (rhubarb, strawberry, lime). A hint of jasmine permeated the air. And low enough to barely register was the sound of ethereal spa music.

The pool staff remembered our names and our favorite juices. They even reserved the loungers we preferred from the previous day. One especially thoughtful staff member made us feel like he’d known us for years. It was an impressive point of differentiation in the ever-demanding one-upmanship of the resort and spa industry.

The Best Spa In Sedona Exceeds Expectations

Depending upon your perspective, the variety of spa treatments and spa experiences at Mii Amo ranged from traditional to off-the-wall. I experimented with less traditional treatments like ‘Energy Clearing’ and ‘Past-Life Regression.’ I also tried several spa experience staples like a Shiatsu Massage and a Clay Wrap.

Our three-day package included six spa treatments during our stay (two 90-minute and four 60-minute). Sitting in the spa’s waiting room, we would meet people from all over the country. Many had been to Mii Amo more than once, and quite a few from Europe and beyond.

The spa staff had a warmth and genuine love of their craft. Each spa treatment opened my mind to new ways of seeing and listening. And each was as relaxing as I’d hoped. My mom, sister, and I all agreed that the spa treatments were restorative in multiple ways. Ways that I wish I could reproduce in my ‘real life.’

Experience the ethereal side of Sedona with this hidden gem: A Spiritual Vortex Tour

Beyond Mii Amo

After three days at the spa, we spent a few nights at the neighboring Enchantment Resort. We sat by the pool, enjoyed the spectacular views, and headed off-property for some sightseeing.

One highlight was the Chapel of the Holy Cross. An earth-toned and delicate chapel that looks as if it is hovering on the edge of a butte. Inspired by the Empire State Building in the 1930s, it was finally completed in 1957. Picturesque from every angle, the central cross of the chapel’s exterior dives directly into the red rocks.

Get A Guide! Book a Fabulous Sedona Highlights Tour Here

The best places to dine in Sedona

We chose our one dinner away from Enchantment with care. A friend had recommended Mariposa. We were lucky to get a coveted reservation on the patio at sunset.

The views and setting were magical, with fire-lit iron globes flanking the entrance. Many diners left their tables mid-meal (me included) to capture the colors in the sky. From what I remember, the food was good, but not the main reason for heading to Mariposa. That said, I would head back any day to watch the sky perform.

While we only had one dinner beyond Mii Amo’s sacred grounds, many other places in Sedona will wow visitors with views and fabulous food. Cress on Oak Creek is in the luxurious hotel Auberge de Sedona. Whether one chooses to dine inside or out, the creekside views are ever-romantic.

Elote is an award-winning modern Mexican restaurant that gets accolades from tourists and locals alike. With locally sourced ingredients and a lively atmosphere, Elote is a must-eat spot while visiting Sedona. Don’t miss the divine corn bisque, a menu highlight.

Tortas de Fuego is a brightly-lit Mexican eatery that specializes in (you know it, tortas). Also known for its burritos and nachos, no one will go home hungry after a meal in one of Sedona’s most popular jaunts.

One last hike at Sedona’s best spa

On my final morning, I took one last vista hike and decided to head out without a camera. I was afraid I would regret not having the chance to capture something that had eluded me before. For almost an hour, I sat in the shade, watching the sun creep along the edge of the rock formations. Was the light creating the character of the mountains or simply revealing it? Without the distraction of a camera, I was fully present in nature and lost in thought.

I’m not sure why I’m surprised that I was less distracted looking at the mountains with my eyes vs through a lens. But it was one of my favorite moments of the trip.

A few days after returning home from Sedona, I was listening to a podcast by Elizabeth Gilbert, the author of Eat, Pray Love. She confessed, “I prefer to live in an enchanted world.” A world where even the air is enchanted?

Well said, Ms. Gilbert. I’m right there with you.

Check Mii Amo availability here

Get my Free Sedona Hot Sheet

Author’s Note: The spa at Mii Amo re-opened after a full renovation. It looks spectacular. I am hoping to go next year.

July 10, 2023
Mukul is The Best Family Resort in Nicaragua—Hands Down

Mukul, An Auberge Resort, Nicaragua /

Nicaragua may be Central America’s best-kept secret, or maybe the secret is already out. It’s a little hard to tell as Mukul has a way of being at full capacity while simultaneously making you feel like you have much of the place to yourself—just the right amount of buzz, activity, and beachy retreat: a difficult balance to strike.

Mukul is a place for those searching for a luxury hideaway experience in an off-the-beaten-path locale.

Then take your pick: a three-hour car journey to the Emerald Coast or a 22-minute exhilarating chartered flight weaving past smoking volcanoes and deep craters. Thankfully, the pilots take it in stride; this is their every day in Nicaragua.

Arriving at Mukul

Ending up at the most southwestern point of Nicaragua, in a breathtaking bay on the Pacific Ocean, made the flight a distant memory. In every direction, natural hues set the color palette of the holiday. The blues of the water and the sky, the creamy white sand, and the thatched palapas define the resort. That, along with the palm trees, mango trees, and vibrant greens of all types of cacti, complete the scenic backdrop.

Bohios (tree-top villas) climb the landscape and cut up into the steep hills. One and two-bedroom villas line the beach, each with its own plunge pool, an outdoor palapa, a low-slung white crocheted hammock to snooze, and its private path to the sea.

While offering much of what you would come to expect from a world-class resort: convivial common areas (with coffees, teas, and treats always within arm’s reach), gorgeous pools, luxe bedding, spacious and well-appointed rooms, water sports, excursions, and enticing menus, Mukul found a way to take it a step further.

Outstanding Service at Mukul

Servers that remember your name, who know where you prefer to sit at the beach club, which smoothie the kids like, how you take your cappuccino, and ask at what temperature you would like your plunge pool to be set. I will never forget the Beach Club staff, Melvyn and Ronny, who joined all the kids in volleyball, baseball, and soccer each day.

By noon, the sand was scorching, and you could barely walk a few feet without sprinting to the sea. It was an endearing moment to watch Melvyn watering the sandy soccer pitch with a hose so the kids and their newfound friends could play without burning their feet!

The property encompasses 1,675 acres of the Emerald Coast. Thankfully, chauffeured golf carts and vans are on hand to take you around, whether to the spa, which sits at the top of the property with majestic bay views, or to the expansive tree-top yoga deck. Or, should you want to work off some of the ubiquitous rum drinks at Mukul, you can take one of the complimentary bikes and cruise around at your leisure.

On-Site Activities

Surfing was the main event and holiday highlight for the three of us. I nominated myself in-house photographer and spent leisurely hours under a large thatched canopy on the beach capturing my husband and kids surfing, getting pummeled by waves, and boogie-boarding with wild abandon. I had three good books on hand and a bottle of rosé. With lunch served on the beach daily, along with the staff occasionally passing through with fresh fruit skewers, there was virtually no reason for me to move.

The fantastic thing about Mukul is that the surfing is just outside your villa; no need to take a long boat ride unless you prefer a different break, which Mukul is happy to oblige. The surf school, TropicSurf, was a class act; my daughter fell in love with the South African surf instructor on day one.

The kids booked lessons each day and had the time of their lives, due largely in part to the supportive and enthusiastic crew at TropicSurf. You could hear Gavin or Grant yelling an encouraging ‘woohooooo!’ to the kids at any given moment.

We spent eight nights at Mukul: surf-filled days, sunset cocktails on the sand, leisurely al fresco dinners, and early nights to rev up for the next day’s activities, or lack thereof in my case. In late March, there were almost cloudless skies, low humidity, and no mosquitoes.

Watching the sun dip over the westernmost cliff’s edge became a nightly ritual, racing to the beach bar to grab our cocktails, then joining the guests who all came out from their villas for the spectacular color show.

Each night’s sunset was unique, but nothing compared to our last night. It was as if the sky was hand painted with thick sweeping brushstrokes of magenta and orange; the palette made even more intense as the sun retreated slowly into the sea. The colors first reflected off the water and then evolved into deeper and richer shades until the stars finally came out.

Mukul Dining

Mukul has three restaurants: the open-air La Terraza, the Tres Ceibas Beach Club, and the formal tasting menu at La Mesa. While the food quality and menu choices exceeded our expectations fully, my only wish for Mukul was for them to have more dining options. The Beach Club had themed nights that were geared towards families with small kids, but we felt it was a little contrived. Italian night in Nicaragua? So we opted for the other two spots and threw in some room service and a seven-course tasting menu one evening at La Mesa.

A highlight was the Thursday night beach front, Nica Luau, which I had low expectations of after Italian night. Rectangular iron filigree lantern-lit trees along the beach and threw pretty dappled light all around. Waiter service (rather than the expected beach buffet) offered everything from grilled octopus, shrimp, and lobster to lamb chops and sirloin steak. We found ourselves spontaneously having dinner with another family we’d just met, our kids having surfed together with their son all week. The moon was just about full, adding more ethereal light to the evening. The glow of the water was nothing short of spectacular. It was one of our nicest evenings! And only a two-minute stumble down the beach to the villa afterward.

Mukul = McCool

Mukul is the kind of place that takes hold of all of your senses, from the taste of fresh shrimp ceviche, the scent of the ripe mango trees, the exfoliating sand underfoot, and, of course, the sweeping views of the sea. But I found myself paying particular attention to sound.

The chirping of the omnipresent magpie jays at breakfast, the fronds of the palm trees roaring in the gusty wind, the rustling and ultimate clashing of the countless hermit crabs under the shrubs at dusk, and never not hearing the lapping and crashing of the waves in the near distance. It is the acoustic soundscape of Mukul.

And while the secret of Mukul might already be out, it is enchanting nonetheless.

March 30, 2023
The end of the road in José Ignacio, Uruguay
Travel to Uruguay’s famous small town /

Depending on when you travel to Uruguay’s José Ignacio, you could either find a sleepy fishing village or a crowded jet setter’s playground. Chances are, you will love José Ignacio either way, as there is just so much to fall in love with. Well off the beaten path and fantastically difficult to get to, José Ignacio combines some of our favorite things in one place: untouched beaches, casual but fabulous food, and a chill vibe. Lunch at the rustic beach shack Parador La Huella, a Jose Ignacio see-and-be-seen scene, starts at 2pm and runs into dinner.

Travel to Uruguay For José Ignacio’s Under the Radar glam

Dirt roads with hand-painted signs add to the casual chic-ness of José Ignacio. But don’t be fooled, it is incredibly under-the-radar glam. Tiny pop-up boutiques along the beach roads are charming and then juxtaposed with a bright red Ferrari, which you soon realize isn’t unusual in José Ignacio. Imagine the Hamptons fifty years ago, as that starts to give you an idea of what to expect from this tiny strip of land, sandwiched between two beaches, a little over an hour from Montevideo.

As we decided to travel to Uruguay in the off-season, there were fewer Ferraris and more bicycles, and we were able to get around easily enough. Our resort, Bahia Vik, had bikes on hand for all of us, but we could have just as happily walked into town. The long vast beach line was so untouched and relatively tourist-free in March, perfect for kite flying as we soon discovered. There are so few people and so much to explore along the craggy coast.

At one point, my husband started to look for music to accompany his beach yoga session and quickly realized that he was already listening to the perfect playlist, the beach sounds were soft and soothing. No Spotify is necessary.

Travel to Uruguay For José Ignacio’s Estancia Vik

My daughter and I took advantage of Bahia Vik’s sister property, Estancia Vik, which is ten minutes away, for a half-day horseback ride. Horses are generally not my thing, but the riding was gentle, and the scenery majestic. Trotting along the expanse of rolling hills of the estancia for a few hours was incredibly peaceful and serene. It is surprising to see the landscape change from sand, dunes, and rock to pure forest in the span of a few miles.

We spent six nights in this little corner of Uruguay and could have stayed longer. It was a lifestyle I could see myself adopting. I imagine the high season is as crazy as the low season is sleepy. About a mile down the beach from us was the third Vik property, Playa Vik, which was severe and angular, and thoroughly modern in design.

The pool, with its dark blue water and underlighting of stars, jutted out towards the sea like a knife. I have never seen another pool like it. We ordered the house wine and sat on the pool’s edge for sunset more than once. Then, we retreated to the nearby firepit to get warm as the sun disappeared.

Travel to Uruguay For A touch of France in José Ignacio

One restaurant that kept drawing us back (until the waiter knew not only our wine choice but our kids’ names) was Almacen El Palmar. The menu is French, surprisingly. Part bakery, part market, part outdoor garden, it is intriguing mostly because of how unassuming it looks.

A hand-painted group of signs greets you on the path, pointing you toward Peru, Spain, and Japan. The France sign points you to the front door. It looks so low-key you might not expect anything from the food. We loved the low-buzzy atmosphere (and the food!) so much that we went back three times. An unusual move for a family that prides itself on never doing the same thing twice.

While there was much to do in and around José Ignacio, such as horseback riding, olive oil tastings, and touring nearby Punta del Este, we realized the most beautiful thing about José Ignacio was just settling into it and letting go.

Get my Wish List Destination Hot Sheet FREE. Just Click.

Travel to Uruguay For A Taste Of Tannat

Tannat is the bold, savory, spicy red grape that has put Uruguayan wines on the map. Bodega Garzón is a perfectly modern, slick, 85-million-dollar property from which to taste it. Uruguay has much to offer oenophiles the world over. Lovingly called the Tuscany of Uruguay, wine lovers travel to Uruguay to experience the unique wines and admire the rolling hills and hectares of vines.

Travel to Uruguay

Travel to Uruguay for the wine, the beaches, the beach shacks, and the remote hotels. Stay for the vibe and the scenery. José Ignacio’s under-the-radar style is a breath of fresh air—miles from the expected. Time to get there before the secrets of José Ignacio are secrets no longer.

Check availability at Bahia Vik here!

Five reasons to get lost in José Ignacio, Uruguay:
- The starry-bottomed architectural and gravitational wonder of a pool at Playa Vik.
- Trying the Tannat, Uruguay’s star red grape.
- Sinking into a three-hour lunch at Parador La Huella…barefoot.
- The nightly fire pits at Bahia Vik and Play Vik will motivate you not only to have one more drink but to maybe engage in conversations with strangers.
- Opening the doors to Playa Vik around sunset, and being temporarily blinded by rays as you head out towards the pool. Remember that scene in Indiana Jones when the sun finally hits the staff in the right place to reveal the location of the ark? That kind of blinding light.
(Please note a few affiliate links above. But rest assured—I only recommend products and hotels I fully support.)
March 1, 2023
How To Experience the Low Country at Palmetto Bluff

Montage Palmetto Bluff is a well-preserved river town, complete with Low Country marshlands, a bird sanctuary, and centuries-old live oaks on the May River in South Carolina. Striking the right blend of highly-curated activities, creative dining options, and varied accommodations, Palmetto Bluff has everything it takes to experience a little Low Country living.

Not long ago, I read an article that sought to quantify the value of ‘things’ versus ‘experiences.’ The writer argued that happiness associated with things (jewelry, cars, electronics) is relatively short-lived compared to experiences (trips, dinners, outdoor adventures), where happiness lasts far longer.

Interestingly, it didn’t matter whether the experience itself was considered ‘good’ or ‘bad’. For instance, let’s say it rained the entire week we spent in Thailand (true). Or, maybe I accidentally booked a hotel in the wrong town on the Amalfi Coast (also true). The memories attached to those experiences are thought to give longer-lasting joy and make for funnier, more engaging stories. True. True. In other words, the laughter lives on.

Family planning with Palmetto Bluff

If there was ever a time to make new memories, that time is now. Some of us have young kids at home, remote learning. Some of us have our college students home for the near future. Perhaps this is an opportunity to capitalize on a weird historical moment and add a few adventures to the family books.

Last October, my family visited Palmetto Bluff in South Carolina. My husband, my kids, my parents (all four of them), my sister, her husband, and their kids. It was our first time in the Low Country. I didn’t fully grasp the importance of our reunion at the time. Those memories are even more poignant, as we haven’t been together since.

The time to start planning future family gatherings is right now. Hotels and airlines are more forgiving with change fees and cancellation policies. Wheels are in motion to make travel safer in the pandemic climate. Wheels are in actual motion across the country, as road trips have become the most popular method of transport. Travel wants us back. Our extended families miss us. Let’s go.

What is the Low Country?

I’m from the northeast. I know mountain life. I know lake life and city life. What I don’t know is Southern life. What does Low Country even mean, I wondered? I headed to Merriam-Webster. Low Country is ‘the low-lying region along the Atlantic coasts of South Carolina and Georgia.’ A bit dry, Mr. Merriam, but informative.

I googled deeper—all the way to page two—the ‘Google graveyard.’ From a cultural perspective, Low Country combines the influences of Southern, Native American, European, Caribbean, and African roots. It is known for its sub-tropical climate, which produces intricate marshlands thick with native birds and reptiles. Now, this was starting to sound more interesting.

Palmetto Bluff fills a Tall Order

Finding a scenic, conveniently located destination accommodating a large group aged 11 to 77 was no easy feat. We were searching for a place with multiple dining choices and a variety of cuisines to please the wide-ranging tastebuds of our crew.

It needed to be on the East Coast and have mild enough weather in mid-October to maximize time outdoors. We wanted a place that offered activities to suit all fitness levels.

Finally, it needed to be self-contained so we could have the freedom to explore yet still feel together. A tall order, indeed. As we soon discovered, it was nothing that Palmetto Bluff couldn’t handle.

Click here for my Wish List Destination Hot Sheet—it’s Free

Cue Palmetto Bluff

Palmetto Bluff is extraordinarily beautiful, in a way that is somewhat unreal and weirdly perfect. Like, The Truman Show, type of perfect. The landscape is nature-filled, inundated with various flora and fauna, including massive live oaks.

These ancient oaks drip with silvery gray beards of Spanish moss that glisten with the morning dew. Later in the afternoon, the elongated shadows from the descending sun added to the utter majesty of the trees.

At times, it seemed as if a ringmaster was shouting orders from behind closed doors. ‘Cue the alligator!’ ‘Now, the egrets!’ Ducklings, start waddling!’ Where exactly was he hiding?

The character of the Low Country was constantly seen, felt, tasted, and heard at Palmetto Bluff. Over five leisurely days, my family settled into a lulling sensory download—slow, Low Country life.

Palmetto Bluff’s Village Home 33

Montage Palmetto Bluff has 200 rooms and 35 private residences, which vary in size and style, ranging from traditional hotel rooms and one-bedroom river cottages to three, four, and five-bedroom village homes.

Our family took over a Victorian-inspired, five-bedroom, elegantly-appointed home. Village Home 33 overlooked one of the many low-arching bridges that unite and define the property. Renting a home versus individual rooms allowed our family to have space to be together and space to be apart. Village Home 33 became our family’s home base, with many common areas inside and out.

Meticulously kept gardens led to the entrance, flanked by two welcoming front porches. A swinging outdoor daybed with pillows in patriotic colors beckoned. I immediately knew that I was going to have trouble leaving the porch.

The house’s style was quasi-traditional, Restoration Hardware meets Southern Living Magazine. It had a modern, open-plan kitchen, multiple dining areas, a living room filled with books and games, and a 50-inch flat-screen television.

The master bath felt spa-like, with layers of natural colors, intricately designed, tiled walls, and a deep, soaking tub. No creature comfort was spared.

Location rules

They say location is everything. Village Home 33 was within walking distance of the property’s River House, where an intimate yet lively bar awaited. Here, too, was the destination for nightly s’mores. Two oversized stone fire pits crackled with fire just as the sun disappeared from view. Nearby, a rolling cart was heaped with various flavored marshmallows and milk chocolate bars. An indulgence for any age, indeed.

The home was also close to the Canoe Club, a thoughtfully created dining space with a clubby, warm, low-lit atmosphere.

Buffalo’s, also nearby, was the scene of our hearty Sunday brunch, southern biscuits and all.

Cole’s, a restaurant set in neighboring Moreland Village, overlooked the tranquil marshlands. A fun, casual dining space, its unique selling point was its state-of-the-art bowling alley. We spent a few post-dinner hours attempting strikes and spares with the kids. The sounds of pins getting knocked down and re-racked brought me back to my teenage years.

Worth noting—the house or room number is the way to pay for everything at Palmetto Bluff. Yes, everything. It is the local currency. This includes the stores in the village, the restaurants, the markets, and all activities. We discovered that the kids having access to that tidbit of information proved costly upon checkout.

Click here for my Wish List Destination Hot Sheet—it’s Free

What’s next at Palmetto Bluff?

Fire-engine red kayaks were waiting to be launched at the docks behind the perfectly constructed village. The tranquil, interconnected inlets and ponds weaved their way around Palmetto Bluff, allowing us to see various birds, pass underneath low-slung bridges, and look for sunbathing alligators on the grassy banks.

Great Blue Herons swooped surprisingly close overhead, trying to catch fish that occasionally jumped from the water. It was one of the many vantage points from which to explore Palmetto Bluff and my personal favorite. A close second was by bike, which was available to rent upon arrival. We kept our group of twelve bikes in the driveway for our stay—a family peloton.

As if daring us to be bored, Palmetto Bluff offered more activities and adventures than we could experience in five days. Little did Palmetto Bluff know that boredom was a welcome treat for me. However, Palmetto Bluff was a playground waiting to be explored and conquered for the kids.

My stepdad played pickleball against every grandchild. One morning, we scoured the marshlands by boat. Later, the kids went tubing at breakneck speed on the placid water, their high-pitched squeals trailing behind them.

On another day, our crew tried our luck at clay pigeon shooting, an activity that captured the imagination of the 11-year-old and the 77-year-old alike.

We were hard-pressed to find downtime between the adult pool, the kid’s pool, the s’mores pits, the treehouses, tennis, bowling, and archery. Yet, we did, in the form of reading on the porch or cocktails at the nearby River House. Taking long walks through the village lanes and along the piers that jutted out over the May River. We found time. Or, maybe time found us.

Sounds of simpler times

It was a trip that harkened back to simpler times. I certainly couldn’t have been fully aware then that this trip would provide memories for me to pull out of my mind’s archives when I needed a lift in mood. The homespun village undertones were sewn into the landscape of Palmetto Bluff.

I remember us poking fun at the low snore of my stepfather as he dozed on the porch each afternoon. And I can still hear the banter of siblings and cousins as they created TikToks in the living room. I listened to the sounds of my son and nephew peeling down the street on their bikes.

I heard laughter from the kitchen, the pop of a wine cork, and the telltale pings and pongs of a backyard tournament. When added up, all of these unremarkable sounds told a much more remarkable story.

They were the sounds of memories being made, and it was novel to listen to them without life’s usual distractions.

And that is how you experience the Low Country, y’all.

Ready to head to the Lowcountry? Check For Availability Here!

Note: I may receive a small fee for any affiliate links above, but rest assured, I only highlight places I recommend from personal experience.

February 8, 2023
Is The Ryokan Nobu In Malibu Worth The Trip?

Ryokan Nobu in Malibu was named the #1 Best Resort Hotel in the continental U.S. by Travel + Leisure’s World’s Best List. Nobu in Malibu is one of the most sought-after dinner reservations on the west coast, located along California’s famed Pacific Coast Highway. Is all this Nobu-centric press well-deserved?

The Nobu Ryokan, In Malibu. What’s a Ryokan?

Having spent time in a few ryokans while living in Tokyo, I was a bit skeptical about the highly anticipated Nobu Ryokan opening in Malibu. Owned by a combination of high-profile celebrities, business magnates, and Chef Matsuhisa, it had quite a force of power behind its amber-colored walls.

By definition, a ryokan is a ‘traditional Japanese-style inn’. It features tatami-matted rooms, low wooden tables, shoji sliding doors, and an onsen (natural hot spring). How would Nobu pull off a minimal Japanese guest house experience just steps off the Pacific Coast Highway in Malibu?

As it turns out, the term ryokan is taken rather loosely at Nobu in Malibu. However, if you are aware of that upfront, you won’t be disappointed. It’s a stunning beachfront property. The Nobu Ryokan sits on exclusive Carbon Beach. It has 17 rooms and suites, all ocean-facing, which feel intimate, exclusive, and surprisingly—given its location, quiet.

Nobu Malibu and Billionaire’s Beach

Interestingly, the part of Carbon Beach where the Nobu Ryokan resides was once a 1950s motel called Casa Malibu Inn, which Oracle co-founder, Larry Ellison bought in 2007. Carbon Beach has often been referred to as Billionaire’s Beach, as it has many celebrity homeowners. Who doesn’t want an ocean view in Malibu?

The beach is a 1.5-mile-crescent shape that extends from Malibu Pier towards Santa Monica. It’s surprising to see so many rickety and run-down homes, (easily mistaken for shacks on stilts) next to multi-multi-million dollar homes.

Until recently, it was nearly impossible to reach Carbon Beach from the street, as there were no pedestrian access points. Homeowners along the beach had been creative to keep the tourists and beachcombers at bay. Fake garages, ‘No Entry’, and ‘No Trespassing’ signs littered the highway, strategically placed to keep people out. That eventually changed. Yet, it’s still a challenge to reach, which makes Nobu Malibu’s beach property all the more exclusive.

Click Here for my free Wish list destinations hot sheet

Nobu Malibu: Dining

Nobu’s ocean-side restaurant is just a stone’s throw from the ryokan, separated only by the ultra-modern and buzzing members-only Soho House. Nobu erases the need for an in-house restaurant but also erases the intimacy of the in-room ryokan dining experience. To that end, the food is not included in the price of the room, as it is in a traditional ryokan.

A typical ryokan meal, known as kaiseki, is about small and varied plates, as well as seasonal and regional ingredients. Each course is artfully designed, with hidden culinary flavors on each plate, sometimes within a single bite. In my eyes, it is the essence of what makes a ryokan stay so unique.

Room service is available from the restaurant, and the food is in line with what you would expect from a superstar transplant chef from Japan. Nobu Matsuhisa has catapulted himself into a worldwide brand, and you would think with so many irons in the fire that his brand might suffer. It didn’t seem to be suffering at the restaurant, a full house every night.

It feels just like the set of Entourage. In a meta moment, we see the real Turtle and ‘E’ wander in for dinner. Not surprisingly, they don’t endure an hour’s wait for a table. However, a perk of staying at the Nobu Ryokan is that we get reservations at the restaurant. We take full advantage of this perk.

At The Nobu Ryokan in Malibu, it’s minimal

The staff at the ryokan is as minimal as the decor. Or, at least it appears that way. Aside from the general manager, Ms. Eng, we hardly see a soul throughout our stay. There is the occasional gardener tending the tropical flora or skimming the man-made ponds, but we went hours without seeing anyone at all.

Ms. Eng has a bright, breezy, and effortless way about her, magically appearing when needed and seeming to disappear into thin air when we don’t. Ms. Eng was once quoted, “You go to Nobu’s restaurant and Soho House to see and be seen—but you come to the ryokan to not be seen”.

Nobu in Malibu, hidden in plain sight

The gardens and architecture are reasons alone to visit the Nobu Ryokan. It’s hidden in plain sight directly on the Pacific Coast Highway. Enter through the double-thick automated wooden doors and leave the world behind. The Pacific Ocean lies directly ahead.

A winding stone path, natural water features, an outdoor fireplace, and an elevated deck with expansive white umbrellas are all that sits between us and the sea. However, only guests of the ryokan can catch a glimpse of the Jerusalem limestone, the koi ponds, or the enormous, overflowing potted plants.

The shallow-pitched and flat roof-topped buildings naturally blend into the hilly California backdrop. The colors are warm and toasty, the sun always creating new colors to the palette, the thunder of the ocean waves walloping onto the shore.

Iconic California palms abound, as do lush flora and fauna. The gardens, while small, are beautiful. Rocky paths guide us around the property, and Japanese stone lanterns are nestled into the landscape.

It’s in the details at Nobu in Malibu

We lunch on the deck upon arrival, soaking up ocean views, while waiting for our room. I have lobster shiitake salad with spicy lemon dressing, the first of many wonderful Nobu Malibu meals. The umbrellas offer enough shade to shield us from the sun, yet allow us to enjoy the unobstructed sea views.

We then head to our suite and immediately decide we are staying put for the rest of the afternoon. Everything we need is in place. An assortment of teas, a Nespresso machine, a large deck with sunscreen and towels, and two beach chairs prepared for us on the sand below. The idea that the PCH is less than a few hundred feet behind us seems impossible.

Our room is beautifully appointed with maple-syrupy teak wood. Warm, natural sunlight pours in from the skylights. As Japanese ryokans go, Mr. Matsuhisa’s interpretation is certainly a high-end version of the genre. While it’s not quite as spare and doesn’t offer the traditional Japanese onsen experience, it does have a deep tub in which I happily soak for hours.

Click here for my free wish list destinations hot sheet

Beauty and the Bath at the Nobu Ryokan

The bathroom is by far one of the ryokan’s best features. This is due mainly to the incredible use of light, and how it graphically and organically plays out through the windows. The shadows create strong geometric patterns that shift throughout the day.

The honeycomb colors make the bathroom appear drenched in the sun, even at night. Never underestimate the power of a soft amber lightbulb. A deep, teak, soaking tub with bath salts and traditional Japanese details makes the loss of a true onsen a distant memory.

A Japanese yukata, or robe, is on hand. The Japanese layer the left side of the yukata over the right, the opposite of what we do here in the West. If layered in Western style, it signifies mourning.

At Ryokan Nobu in Malibu: It’s Hospitality For The Win

There are plenty of traditional Japanese touches, of course, but I don’t feel like I’m in Japan, and perhaps that is not Matsuhisa’s intent. Yet, I don’t feel I’m in a Disney-fied version of Japan either. It is merely this, a California interpretation of a Japanese inn.

The Nobu Ryokan Malibu’s website writes about the art of Japanese hospitality, omotenashi. The service certainly comes close to its Japanese counterpart, and as I mentioned, Ms. Eng could not have been more in tune with our needs. We discover that the only way to secure a reservation for the inn is by email, as there is no telephone number or even a reservations department, per see.

Malibu Farm

We wander down the coast for dinner. Situated at the base of the iconic circa 1905 Malibu Pier, and wallowing in its shabby chic-ness is Malibu Farm. The crowd is a mixed bag, young and old, tourists, and locals alike. Buzzy and convivial. Well-placed hanging tealights create a low-key yet festive vibe.

The food is good, and I enjoy a perfectly seared skirt steak with a balsamic and fig marinade. However, the fiery disk of the cadmium orange setting sun is the showstopper. It definitely isn’t the chairs, or should I say, the low, hard wooden stools that we sit upon. But the sunset is a hit, and I happily sit in discomfort for hours watching the ocean views.

The sister breakfast spot up the pier, Malibu Farm Café, is equally shabby. Maybe even more so. The kind of place where I feel compelled to tip, despite the fact that I stood in line to order food, and had to bus my own table afterward. The coffee is energizing, hot, and in big ceramic mugs, so that makes up for a lot.

Malibu Pier is as insta-ready as it gets, and if you are lucky with a bright blue sky (unlike us) and a rare moment when tourists aren’t lining the pier, you can get a lovely shot.

Malibu Views at The Nobu Ryokan

Admittedly, I have a Western view of the Far East and an Eastern view of the Pacific Northwest. That said, I probably need more than three days at Nobu in Malibu to truly get under the surface. I am willing to do more research.

However, as much as I like the ryokan with its simple subtle lines, minimalistic decor, and prime beach location, I’m not sure it can justify its staggering price tag. I imagine some who are more familiar with traditional Japanese culture would consider it a bit of a gimmick.

I give the Ryokan at Nobu in Malibu kudos for its many accomplishments. It left me wondering, though, whether it’s a traditional Japanese Ryokan or a cleverly branded boutique hotel.

Let me know what you decide.

Click here for my free wish list destinations hot sheet

January 29, 2023
Morgan’s Rock—an Ecolodge Hotel on the edge of the jungle

An ecolodge hotel in a sub-tropical Nicaraguan jungle isn’t for everyone. When I booked it, I wasn’t even sure it was for me. In my mind, ‘sub-tropical’ translated to ‘blindingly hot with no A/C.’ ‘Ecolodge’ meant remote and natural, which we all know is code for ‘no electricity and buggy.’ Ecolodge, I noted, was just one syllable shy of Econolodge.

At that time, the holidays were closing in fast. Halloween decorations dangled menacingly in Safeway. Toddlers wearing matching turkey PJs populated my Instagram feed. Christmas muzak filled the halls at Bloomingdale’s—daily reminders of upcoming chaos.

In other words, September.

I wondered how far away we could get, physically and mentally, once the last Christmas gift was unwrapped. An eco-lodge hotel sounded promising-ish.

Morgan’s Rock, here we come

An ecolodge in Nicaragua. A place where I can empty my accumulated holiday anxieties onto the beach and get reacquainted with an abstract concept called simplicity. A place where I can regain my far-sighted vision.

I’d like to sit still and watch cloud formations form. Or, spend an hour watching the sun dip below the ocean’s horizon and change the world into a kaleidoscope of colors. Appreciating simple things like these take time and age. At an eco-lodge in Nicaragua, I think, I’ll have both.

Admittedly, I don’t have a clue what an ecolodge hotel is really about. Only what I imagine it’s about. I do little to no research on our destination before switching my iPhone to airplane mode, adopting a fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants mindset to kick off the New Year.

And fly we did. Two flights and one shockingly small ‘charter’ plane ride over an active volcano later, we touch down on Nicaragua’s Emerald Coast—a grass-covered field surrounded by a forest. Several dozen howler monkeys greet us upon arrival. Yikes.

What is an ecolodge hotel, exactly?

Calling oneself an ecolodge these days is as easy as calling that 95lb Labradoodle in seat 32C a service pet. There are stark differences between a lodge being ‘green’ versus ‘eco.’ Ecolodges focus on minimizing the effects of tourism and the physical structure of lodging on the environment.

Ecolodges contribute to local communities, offer educational opportunities to guests, help preserve ecosystems, and promote conservation efforts. True eco-lodges are situated deep within pristine, natural environments and have minimal impact on the landscape.

In contrast, green lodges or hotels are usually found in more urban areas. Improvements and sustainability practices are added to an existing structure to become more eco-friendly. While green is good, eco is better—at least from an environmental POV.

Morgan’s Rock resides on a small, sheltered, mile-long crescent bay on the edge of a jungle. Its 15 bungalows and three villas are nestled near the beach on its 4,000 acres. Each villa or bungalow is intentionally positioned where the fewest amount of trees are removed to build them. That’s not an easy feat in a world where guests expect unobstructed 360-degree ocean views to accompany their freshly squeezed orange juice and avo toast.

Get my Free Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet. Click here.

What’s the history of Morgan’s Rock?

Morgan’s Rock was built in 2004 by the Ponçon family. Agronomist Clément-Marie Ponçon was sent to Nicaragua in 1978 on assignment by the French government to advise on developing agriculture and agroforestry.

Clément stayed on in Nicaragua, eventually starting, among other endeavors, a coffee processing plant that encompasses nearly 40% of Nicaragua’s production. In 2004, he and his wife opened a five-star eco-lodge in Nicaragua, the first of its kind on 350 acres of tropical beachfront—Morgan’s Rock.

Aside from becoming an ecolodge long before an ecolodge was a thing, Morgan’s Rock is a working farm with an estuary and organic gardens. A visit to Morgan’s Rock allows for experiences not found at typical hotels. Like the opportunity to milk cows, harvest shrimp, take a guided jungle walk at night, or go on a sloth-spotting mission in the morning.

What is the property layout?

Steep, winding, hand-crafted wooden staircases take us through the jungle’s canopy. My calves complain as I make them climb what feels like the height of the Washington Monument multiple times a day. But along the way, the scenery masks the pain, from the micro to the macro. Vines strangle ancient ficus trees. Little lizards scurry between the rocks, and howler monkeys unleash their monstrous howls.

The jungle is overgrown, hilly, and filled with animals we can hear but rarely see. We cross a 100-ft suspension bridge with views to the Pacific en route to our bungalow. The wobbly bridge makes Morgan’s Rock feel like a Hollywood movie set. The theme song to Raiders of The Lost Ark is on a constant loop in my head because my husband insists on playing it every time we cross it—more than once, I consider throwing him off.

Morgan’s Rock has a large platform yoga deck with complimentary classes. The dining area is open-plan. It overlooks a small pool that overlooks the ever-empty beach that overlooks the sea. A separate private thatched dining loft is available for larger groups, as well as a full spa.

Permanent private beach huts with braided hammocks are dotted along the beach—far enough ashore so as not to be whisked away by high tide. A small food and drink hut is nearby, so we are never more than 20 feet from a Bloody Mary or a shrimp taco.

What’s an Ecolodge hotel bungalow like?

Bungalow #3 is an aerie—set high above the beach and made with local materials by local craftsmen—another important component of ecolodge accommodations. The walls facing the sea aren’t walls at all. They are floor-to-ceiling screens that offer the money shot of sinking sunsets and rising tides.

The bed placement is at the room’s highest point and maximizes the panoramic view. I don’t even have to leave it to be fully immersed in nature. Trilling, whistling, squawking, and chirping from the birds. Howling, from the monkeys.

Eco-lodge hotels like Morgan’s Rock use energy-efficient lighting and/or very little lighting overall. Solar panels and low-impact ‘natural’ A/C units allow us to sleep comfortably each night. Hallelujah! The interiors of the treehouses are designed to mimic the jungle with dark wooden tree-like posts and thatched pitched roofs.

The sound of the ocean lulls me to sleep at any given time of day, which makes the actual getting out of bed an issue. Thankfully, there is a pot of strong Nicaraguan coffee within arm’s reach. Eventually, I head to our deck to give the swinging day bed some attention before breakfast.

What’s the wildlife situation?

A big draw to staying at an ecolodge that preserves its natural surroundings in such a delicate way is the presence of animal life. More than once I equate our time in Nicaragua to a safari. From the simple indoor/outdoor treehouse accommodations to the immersion in wildlife.

On our first morning, a troop of howler monkeys passes through the area before 6am. The sun is not up yet, but everything else in the jungle most definitely is. I’m already acquainted with the howlers when they so warmly greeted us at the airstrip, or else I wouldn’t have left the bed.

Among the various noises howler monkeys make, none is more unique than the one that unfurls like a monster waking from the dead. Think White Walkers from Game of Thrones. Seriously, google ‘howler monkey sounds.’ I’ll wait. Then imagine it times ten. You wouldn’t leave the bed either.

There are many interesting species of wildlife in this part of Nicaragua. A list of what we see and don’t see follows. Fun fact: the scorpions and tarantulas here aren’t deadly. As if that’s comforting…

Howler Monkey: Saw some, heard dozens.

Capuchin Monkey: None.

Spider Monkey: One.

Scorpions: None.

Tarantula: One.

Snake: One.

Lizards: Many.

Crabs: It’s the beach, duh.

Sea Turtles: None. Wrong season.

Sloths: Sadly, none.

Jaguar: None.

Birds: White-Throated Magpie Jay, Rufous Tailed Hummingbirds, Crested Caracaras, among others. Still with me? No more birds, I promise.

Check Availability for Morgan’s Rock here

What do you do at an Ecolodge hotel?

The beauty of an ecolodge visit goes well beyond a stunning natural setting. In the case of Morgan’s Rock, we decide to find a balance between eco-tourism activities and more relaxing ones. The Emerald Coast is well known for surfing, and my husband and son surf most mornings at a nearby beach called Maderas.

Those mornings, I do pilates on our deck after I’ve spent a sufficient amount of time lounging in the regular bed and swinging on the daybed. The view from our room is better than any other spot on the property, and has coffee. I have no motivation to leave it.

Daniel and I mountain bike. I take a guided bird-watching walk (which is more of a bird-listening walk.) Daniel and Chase boogie-board. I read in the hammock. We SUP and kayak in the estuary. Chase convinces me there are crocs below the water’s surface, which ruins my experience. It enhances his. No one rides horses.

What’s the best thing about Morgan’s Rock?

The sunsets are hands down the prettiest and most dramatic I’ve ever seen. After sunset viewing, my second favorite activity is the farm visit. It has the potential to be cheesy. It isn’t. A group of us pile into a van and drive ten minutes to the working farm on the property. As we walk towards the cows, I notice a woman making corn tortillas and a table set for ten. I’m hungry—and happy.

The mama cow won’t stand up for us to milk her, so they bring her calf to nurse. That clever trick gets her moving. After milking the cow, a first for me, we gather eggs. We hold cute baby chicks in our hands, and I learn the hard way that they risk being pecked to death if accidentally dropped. While no chicks die that day, it’s chicken-coop chaos for a very long minute.

Soon after the chick incident, we make tortillas. Using the milk we squeezed and the eggs we collected, we are treated to a traditional Nicaraguan breakfast, including Gallo Pinto. Nicknamed Spotted Rooster due to its colors, Gallo Pinto is a flavorful mix of beans, rice, peppers, cilantro, and onions. Fresh coffee, passionfruit juice, and convivial chit-chat complete the morning. I’m ready for my book and a hammock.

What’s the food and service like at Morgan’s Rock?

The food at Morgan’s Rock is simple and basic, as one would expect from a remote ecolodge that sources most of its ingredients. I remind myself that I’m craving simplicity—it’s the reason I’m here. The best dishes are seafood-based. My lobster dinner has a whopping four lobster tails, grilled beautifully with just the right amount of butter. The thatched, open-air dining space is breezy and ambient with clinking glasses that amplify the festive mood.

Beach lunches are tacos, ceviche, salads, and grilled skewers. Early on, I discover from another guest that we could order off-menu. Clearly, Americans make up most of the clientele here. I google traditional Nicaraguan dishes like Indio Viejo and ask if they can accommodate. Of course, they can. Morgan’s Rock could certainly place more faith in American tastebuds and offer more traditional Nicaraguan options. Those dishes were the best.

The service is attentive, genuine, warm, and responsive. With so many steps at the property, it is truly amazing that our requests are handled so promptly. The staff is in excellent physical shape for obvious reasons.

That said, there are many times when things get lost in translation. These times mainly have to do with food. Ordering a sirloin but getting a rib-eye. Asking for garlic shrimp and receiving lobster. If you are a natural-born complainer, this isn’t the place for you. If you can roll with misunderstandings from a well-meaning and always-smiling staff, then you are sure to love your visit.

HNY from an Ecolodge in the jungle

A small sailboat crosses the bay on the distant horizon. Its paperwhite sail pierces the blue sky. My far-sighted vision is restored. I listen to the chorus of the jungle and the waves crashing against the desolate white sand beach in front of me. It’s New Year’s Day. I’m content.

There’s no pillow menu at Morgan’s Rock. There’s no reserve wine list and no signature scent. There are no TVs or phones. There are thousands of steps, harmless critters, and not much to do after dark. Rustic luxury here really means rustic—and not in the Blackberry Mountain way. This is a true ecolodge hotel—one of the first of its kind.

There are spectacular, unfiltered, and unobstructed sunsets. And wildlife sounds unlike any I hear at home. There is excellent coffee. Options for adrenaline junkies to move and options for the sedentary to stay still. There’s a farm with cows, baby chicks, and fancy roosters.

An ecolodge in a sub-tropical Nicaraguan jungle isn’t for everyone. How many readers did I lose at ‘critters?’ Adventure is all the rage. So are experiences. And eco-lodges. I couldn’t have imagined a better way to start the year. With a clear head, a beach view, and a heavy dose of simplicity.

Happy New Year.

Check availability at Morgan’s Rock here

January 7, 2023
Amangiri is the hideaway hidden in plain sight

Amangiri is one of the most luxurious resorts in the world. Amangiri has won awards for its spectacular pool, its desert location, and over-the-top excursions. Read on for a sneak peek into Utah’s decadent resort, Amangiri. Discover if a vacation in the Utah desert is right for you.

What’s Aman?

Years ago, when we lived in Tokyo, I remember a dinner party where we met a woman named Fang. She’d been an ex-pat in Japan for years. We were fresh off the proverbial boat, trying to make sense of a new and foreign life. After she casually mentioned an upcoming trip to Aman in Indonesia, we innocently asked, “What’s Aman?”. Cue sardonic laughter, followed by a cryptic smile that implied, ‘If you have to ask, maybe you are at the wrong dinner party’. Fast forward a decade. We have since learned about the inherent draw of Aman and Amangiri, a luxurious oasis hidden in the Utah desert.

The Aman group of resorts is scattered across the globe. They define a niche of low-key, high-end luxury, unlike much of what is out there, which tends to be either one or the other. Typically, in far-flung, remote, and unique destinations, they almost always sit discreetly in their environments. For instance, Amansara, in Cambodia, was the former guest villa of the country’s King Sihanouk.

Many Aman hotels don’t have a signed entrance, making them challenging to find. They rarely, if ever, have a lobby, bellboys, or a front desk. Founded by Indonesian native Adrian Zecha in 1988, Aman now has dozens of boutique properties around the world. Each prides itself on intrinsic beauty and stellar, almost invisible service.

Amangiri is hidden in plain sight

Amangiri, one of only three Aman properties in the continental US, is impossible to spot when viewed from above. In fact, it’s also impossible to spot when you are driving. With about 600 acres, it nestles beautifully into the desert landscape. The colors mirror the dusty terrain. Low, flat rooftops quietly conceal the beauty that lies beneath. It’s beautiful from the inside out. Every detail has been thoughtfully decided upon, whether natural or manmade.

Bring the outside in at Amangiri

Our suite was spacious, strikingly monochromatic, and naturally lit by expansive picture windows. Rooms are mountain-facing so that not a single golden drop of sun is missed throughout the day. The contrast of the warm glow that hovered and then completely dropped out of sight was something to look forward to each evening. With a glass of wine, we had front-row seats for every performance.

Rooms and suites are as natural as the outdoors itself. Stone, wood, and clay describe both the mellow color palette as well as the raw materials. The beds float mid-room, facing the windows so that there is no escape from the elements.

The outside patio had a small fire table to take the chill off the slightly cool summer nights while we enjoyed sunset cocktails. Nearby, a straw hat and parasol were on hand to shield the all-day rays, a hand-carved walking stick for hikes, and state-of-the-art binoculars. Amangiri, you thought of everything. Details rule.

Amangiri is only a click away. Check here for availability.

Amangiri’s Panoramic vistas

The Dining Room and Great Room at Amangiri are open-plan layouts with panoramic windows that essentially double as a permanent and ever-changing art exhibit. As we walked around the common spaces, we took note of local handicrafts, such as geometric-designed hand-woven baskets and pottery.

As ever, coming back to the resort after an invigorating day immersed in nature felt decadent, and our relaxing time ahead felt well-deserved. Four fireplaces with comfortable lounge-like seating were welcoming spots to cozy up with a pre-dinner drink. A floor-to-ceiling walnut wine cellar that would make any wine aficionado swoon was another fun place to explore.

The cuisine at Amangiri, given its geographic location, is influenced by Native Americans. Interesting flavor combinations, such as Shrimp and Mesquite Smoked Grits accompanied by Cholla Cactus Bud, caught my eye. We experimented with new dishes and flavors daily, and the jovial bartender created cocktails to match our choices.

A large telescope beckoned us from the Great Room’s expansive windows so we could get as up close and personal with the terrain as we wanted. I imagined wildlife roaming in the distance, the owls burrowing in the rocks, and the critters scuttling quickly across the desert floor.

The ABCs of Amangiri: Adventures, Buttes, and Champagne

Amangiri’s proximity to Lake Powell and Antelope Canyon is a significant draw, as they are a launch point for so many interesting adventures. One could easily spend a week and not begin to exhaust the excursions available: hiking the red rocks, crossing the challenging Via Ferrata, and climbing into the slot canyons, to name a few. There is also hot air ballooning, kayaking, and horseback riding—a playground for the adventure junkie and photographer alike.

The innate beauty in this part of Utah conjures up the image of peeling back layers from an onion. Beyond the thick outer layers—climbing and hiking—are the super thin ones, like discovering owls nesting in the nook of a rock or noticing the subtle difference in colors of the earth beneath our feet. Those delicate layers, the tiny details, can go on indefinitely here—the corner of the country where Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah intersect.

One afternoon, we boarded a helicopter to see the desert from above and landed atop a nearby butte. Our pilot set up a table and chairs for us to soak up the surroundings over a bottle of chilled champagne. Blue and gold, opposites in the world of color, created a striking scene from our elevated position.

As the sun began to set, we flew over the Glen Canyon Dam and Horseshoe Bend—its iconic shape giving credence to its name. One highlight among many highlights of the trip.

Amangiri and Utah’s Slot Canyons

It is said that Utah has the most slot canyons of anywhere in the world, and the draw of hiking into these colorful, sunlit, narrow gorges was a large part of why Utah became our destination of choice.

Our guide was a young, local Native American man who led us up, over, and around the rock formations and taught us about the layered sedimentary deposits. At various points, we had to scramble on our hands and knees and suck in our bellies to access the famous slots.

To say that the colors and striations of the canyons cannot be captured on film is an understatement. A sliver, a piece, or a glimpse can be caught, but to illustrate it in its entirety was impossible, at least by me.

At certain times of day, the sun dived deep into the slots, saturating them and creating luminescent hues. The rock walls appeared fluid. We crawled through passageways in the formations, watching the colors that ranged from cadmium orange and burnt orange to cayenne red, persimmon, and then a rich, moody purple. Other times, looking through the crevices gave the illusion of an orb of fire rather than permanent rock. The once fiery walls smoldered as the sun shifted, turning smoky and dark.

Amangiri and Lake Powell

A man-made reservoir rather than a lake, Lake Powell added yet a different layer of adventure to our desert holiday. The following morning, we hired a captain and a boat and spent the day wake-surfing, waterskiing, and swimming in Lake Powell’s crips waters. We marveled at the impressive and incredibly steep canyon walls and noted the distinct colored patterns that centuries of ever-changing water levels had etched into the earth.

Craggy and textured mountains surrounded the lake, vibrantly juxtaposed against the cerulean blue sky. Distant buttes dotted the barren landscape; their iconic flat tops cut a unique silhouette. With the water so clear and brilliant, Lake Powell is understandably a favorite destination for houseboats and day trippers. Yet, it didn’t feel busy. In fact, there were moments we were so alone, I felt I had traveled back to prehistoric times.

Click here for my latest wish list destinations hot sheet, FREE.

Amangiri’s 180 million-year-old rock is a showstopper

After a morning of squeezing through canyons and tackling the dry desert heat, it was a gift to return to the resort and know that we didn’t have to leave the property for any reason for the remainder of the day. As Google had promised in my research, the pool setting at Amangiri was said to be nothing short of awesome. I was excited to fact-check.

Hands down, the most defining element of Amangiri is its enormous ancient boulder. It has been said that Mr. Zecha used this rock as the centerpiece of the resort’s design and spent years trying to secure the site, as it was initially nationally owned land. One could argue that it is the oldest piece of original art on the property.

In a feat of design that would make any landscape architect drool, a glorious pool surrounds the boulder. Each platform lounger, with oversized white umbrellas, slices into the pool’s edge, which creates the illusion of personal space. Some days, we felt like we were the only guests there. However, one afternoon, Tom Hanks and his family showed up poolside, and we all did our best to pretend we didn’t recognize him. But even with eyes closed, Tom Hank’s voice is impossible to mistake.

Invisible service at Amangiri

As mentioned earlier, Aman prides itself on nearly invisible service. At Amangiri, they took that sentiment a bit too far, and sometimes, we couldn’t find anyone! This was most apparent at the pool when ordering a drink or a bottle of water and then later at cocktails. (Although, it didn’t seem like the Hanks family had similar issues.) However, when we did find a server, they couldn’t have been more friendly or helpful.

In Aman’s defense, it may be hard, in such a quiet, remote part of Utah, to find the level of service they can more easily find at other properties. Nonetheless, I would head back to Amangiri in a heartbeat and forgo any level of service for the views.

Amangiri means Peaceful Mountain

Amangiri is a feat of form and function. Geometric lines nestle so unobtrusively into the earth—not making much of a ripple from an architectural point of view. There is a reason that Amangiri has been written about endlessly in travel magazines and is often cited as one of the best hotel settings in the country. The pool is considered one of the most beautiful in the world, thanks to Mr. Zecha’s vision.

A few years ago, Aman revealed a sister property to Amangiri called Camp Sarika. It’s a private enclave of ten canvas-topped pavilions, each with a private plunge pool, set within 600 acres of the property. Aman calls it a back-to-the-wild experience. They call it a meditative sanctuary. Whatever they call it, it’s now at the top of my wish list.

In Arabic, Amangiri is defined as ‘Peaceful Mountain’. It’s hard to imagine a more fitting name in this stunning part of the United States. When I think back to that long-ago dinner party in Tokyo, now I’m the one smiling. Wherever you are, Fang, thank you.

Amangiri is just a click away. Check here for availability.

November 11, 2022
Blackberry Mountain Is Sensational

Tucked up in the Smoky Mountains of Tennessee. Blackberry Mountain sets a high bar by combining unique adventures and holistic wellness activities. And, it takes adventures even further with locally sourced food, and the comforts of home. This post describes how Blackberry Mountain entices each of the senses, in completely unexpected ways.

This is Blackberry Mountain

Big Double Shelter is a wide, wooden deck at the end of Big Double Trail. The treetops in the distance look freshly painted. Brushstrokes of oily red, orange, and yellow skim the uppermost leaves.

The result is an undulating wave of late autumn color. Big Double Shelter hovers above pine trees adorned with clusters of prickly pinecones jut precariously over a deep ravine. We are the only hikers out this brisk November morning. The silence is deafening.

THUMP.

“Uh oh,” my friend says, “there goes the walkie-talkie”.

I peer over the edge. But she’s already scrambling down the steep slope to recover it from the forest floor. I think to myself, this is the part of the film when things begin to go horribly wrong.

What’s to fear? It’s not as if there are black bears roaming the Smoky Mountains in late November. Or, that the walkie-talkie is our sole connection to the lodge? Alerting the front desk of our hiking route, as recommended, is no longer unimportant.

We’d brought only a 4 oz bottle of water between us because we want to travel ‘light’. And, perhaps I’m not the confident map reader I pretend to be. Is the sky starting to turn an ominous gray? Is the wind picking up? Why do I feel suddenly parched? Curse you, my overactive imagination.

Get my free wish list destination hot sheet. Just click here.

At Blackberry Mountain, adventure and luxury overlap

If this mini-adventure appears to be threaded with fear, it is fleeting. In this case, the ‘Girls’ Weekend Gone Wrong’ thriller would have to wait, as our hike had an uneventful ending. My friend recovered the slippery walkie-talkie, the skies reverted to cerulean blue, the wind abated, and the water sufficed. The only evidence of bear was an ambiguous claw scrape in the dirt.

Blackberry Mountain, a luxury/adventure lodge in Walland, Tennessee, is as eventful or uneventful as one wants it to be. The property’s sweet spot is best illustrated between the layers. Layers as thick and interesting as the Smoky Mountains themselves.

Blackberry Mountain, in brief

The Beall family started Blackberry Farm as a six-room country inn in the mid-70s. Over the years it has grown and gained worldwide attention in the hospitality sphere. In 2018, the Beall family opened a sister property, Blackberry Mountain. Blackberry Mountain covers eight miles of protected ridge line over 5200 acres. Almost half of which is dedicated to land conservation. Not to overdramatize, but it’s spectacular.

The Watchman Cabins

Ramshackle, Cripple Creek, Crackling Hen, and Old Smoky. Welcome to the watchman cabins. A six-of-a-kind collection that lines the top ridge of the property. Each cabin comes with its own personalized golf cart so getting around the property is never an issue. Our cabin is Ramshackle, set just across from the forest-enclosed, infinity-edged, hot tub. No golf cart is needed.

Outside, the smell of new wood-burning wafts from the neighboring cabins. And the fresh scent of morning dew is ever more noticeable after the night’s heavy downpour.

The cabins are rustic-chic. For instance, Ramshackle has layers of wooden beamed walls, and wide, wood-planked floors. Additionally, there’s a wood-burning stove and a free-standing deep soaking tub to complete the comfy, cozy setting. Endless little luxuries are sprinkled throughout the cabin.

Amenity Overload

As an example, Aesop toiletries sit at the edge of the deep, stand-alone tub. A Nespresso maker and assorted teas are on hand for a morning caffeine fix. And, remote-controlled roller shades reveal the lofty view from floor-to-ceiling windows. Amenities, galore.

Additionally, brass binoculars (for bird or bear viewing) are set atop the iron stove. Also, there is a basket of firewood ready to take the chill from the cool evening air. Thick, wool, blankets drape the chairs, begging to be worn. So, that regardless of the outside temperature, we could still enjoy views from the deck.

The trees in front of Ramshackle’s picture window are stark, having already lost most of their leaves. Spindly branches overlap one another, an inky contrast against the morning’s milky fog.

7am. I’m not a morning person. But, I try to keep my eyes open long enough to witness the mist rise beyond the windows. I want to watch the sun break through to reveal the patches of farmland below. Watercolor hues of overlapping blues shape the mountains. Steel blue, gray-blue, periwinkle, cornflower, and as expected, smoky blue. I don’t even have to leave my bed. If there is ever a place to have cabin fever, this is it.

Naturally, views trump everything at Blackberry Mountain. And none are more intoxicating than from the hilltop Watchman Cabins.

Get my free wish list destination hot sheet. Just click here.

THREE SISTERS, AND A FIRETOWER RULE OVER BLACKBERRY MOUNTAIN

There are two restaurants at Blackberry Mountain: Firetower and Three Sisters. Firetower is aptly named. It sits at the base of a restored 1950s fire tower that guests can climb for sweeping views. The restaurant is an uphill stone’s throw from our cabin and is where we enjoyed many of our best meals. Three Sisters is a slightly more formal dining experience at the main lodge. We divided our meals between both—always in fear of missing out on something the chefs were inventing. Foodie FOMO, it’s real.

In an effort to try every dish on the menus, we shared everything. My friend has been a vegan for 20 years. I decided to become one for three days. I was curious if my tastebuds would forgive me. If I was making too big a culinary sacrifice. My fears were unwarranted.

Breakfasts and dinners are included in the room rate at Blackberry Mountain, which made being experimental easy. The chefs are more than happy to split the meals so that guests can try everything. In one case, we couldn’t decide on which two of the three main courses to share. Our waitress surprised us by bringing all three.

The chefs and waitstaff were as excited and eager for us to sample the entire menu as we were. It is just that type of ‘above and beyond’ service that shows up in every facet of Blackberry Mountain. No ask was too much trouble. Ever.

Executive Orders

The executive chefs, Joel Werner, of Firetower, and Joey Edwards, of Three Sisters, both create extraordinary multi-course and multi-dimensional meals. The dishes have layers of colors and textures—as interesting visually as culinarily.

Fresh, foraged mushrooms sit atop a crusty flatbread with piles of herbs and garlic. A warm grain bowl explodes in flavors as bold as its colors, a brushstroke of cashew butter at its base. At breakfast, sweet potato hash is sprinkled with crispy rice on a thinly-sliced avocado.

Each dish is an unpretentious work of art; confident, simple, and purposeful. I made no sacrifices being a part-time vegan. Although I did allow myself one diversion, as I couldn’t pass up the wagyu beef entree at Three Sisters.

With chefs like this cooking for me each day, I could easily imagine life as a vegan. At least a part-time vegan.

Pretentious Glass, a Blackberry Mountain exclusive

Speaking of unpretentious works of art, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the decanter. In fact, I could write an entire post about the decanter. Matthew Cummings, owner, founder, and glassblower-in-chief of Pretentious Glass spent years cultivating a relationship with Blackberry Mountain. He now creates exclusive pieces of glassware for them. A fine art sculptor turned commercial artist, Cummings’ creations in glass are a modern, festive, take on classic styles.

His decanter is a carnival of glass. Wide and round with long, whimsical ribbons that stretch from bottom to top. It begged us to choose a wine worthy of it. As a side note, I’m angling to buy one. But I’m told they’re not yet for sale. Yet, I will keep inquiring. Matthew, are you listening?

Get my free wish list destination hot sheet. Just click here.

BATHED IN SOUND AND LIGHT AT BLACKBERRY MOUNTAIN

Perhaps, the highlight of the getaway is one that I hadn’t anticipated. I was prepared to love the food, the atmosphere, the lodge, and the lodging. I had seen photos, heard stories from friends, and read about the chefs and food. Blackberry Mountain is not an inexpensive undertaking, so a certain level of expectation was inherent. However, the sound bath experience was unexpectedly transporting.

That blustery morning we meet our master of ceremonies. Chris introduces us to the ritual of sound bathing with his warm, lulling voice. The room has high ceilings and is drenched in champagne light. Chris is surrounded by a multitude of instruments; gongs, rainmakers, and chimes, among them. Next, all six guests form a wide semi-circle on the floor with our yoga mats. Lastly, we drape ourselves in soft blankets and placed lightly-scented lavender cloths over our eyes. This is already amazing.

Gongs, Chimes, and Rain

The senses in my body awaken and are warmed from the inside out. I melt into the sounds. The gongs overlap the chimes. Then, the chimes overlap the rainmaker, which sounds like waves crashing onto a beach. First softly, then gaining power, before receding again. I fall asleep, I think. Then awaken to tuning forks in G major, chants, and a few unnameable sounds. The vibrations of those sounds lift and settle within me as I drift in and out of a dream-like state.

All too soon, Chris asks us to sit up. I reluctantly follow orders. The gauzy roller shades are raised, the curtains are drawn. Had I even noticed them earlier? I find myself facing purple mountains— the start of sunset. The ridge is razor sharp, and pink and orange hues are just beginning to appear behind it. I smile. Then wonder when I can do it all over again.

Time’s Up

We attempted a leisurely pace throughout our three days at Blackberry Mountain. We were aiming to find the right balance of chill time and activities. There is much we left undone, which is all the fuel I needed to plan a future trip.

On our final afternoon, a layer of dark clouds descends over the tree line. As if to remind us that it’s time to go. The wind whips in gusts and rattles the stark branches. Not surprisingly, it is still incredibly scenic. But, our time is up.

Blackberry Mountain alighted my senses. It reminded me to admire beauty in the ordinary. Like trees, birdsong, and morning mist. Yet, it had the understated comforts of home but felt extraordinarily luxurious.

It is a hideaway that sparks creativity, calm, and restorativeness. And, it is just what I needed at this moment in my life. To feel snug and secure somewhere outside of my own home.

Whatever it is—the food, the cabins, the hospitality, the treatments, or the adventurous hikes. It is an escape from the familiar. And, who doesn’t sometimes need just that?

Next hike, though, I will take more water.

Get my free wish list destination hot sheet. Just click here.

October 6, 2022
Escape to New York, Inness takes on the Catskills

Inness is the latest property to take on the Catskills, in New York State. With its low-key escapist vibe and majestic mountain scenery, Inness delivers a weekend getaway for those lucky enough to live within driving distance. Think a cabin-laden, nature-centric resort in the Catskills can’t deliver? Inness will prove you wrong.

“Give me a 5-hour radius, Daniel?” I plead. My husband hates to drive. The last time we took a road trip, a four-hour drive turned into eight, due to an overturned tractor trailer and an ill-timed oil spill. Let’s just say that closed the books on road trips for good.

With airplanes being public enemy #1 of travel these days, I thought I could re-open the case. Newspaper headlines cry, “Unfriendly Skies”, “Airmageddon”, and “The Summer of Lost Luggage”. Every day I’d email Daniel an article reinforcing my point. I’m nothing if not persistent. Although Daniel would likely use a different adjective.

I send more self-serving sound bytes, but he’s unresponsive. If I’m making any headway, it’s impossible to tell.

As a last resort, I offer this: “We can listen to 80s on 8 the whole way.” A statement, while brilliant, I regret the moment it’s leaving my mouth. I detect a glint of possibility in his eyes.

Inness, here we come.

You’re going to the Catskills?

Friends ask, ‘Ummm, are the Catskills still a thing? Were they ever?’. Yes, we are going to the Catskills. The Catskills of Dirty Dancing lore. That place your grandparents used to go. ‘The Catskills are cool again.’, I reply. I hope I’m right. If they aren’t, I’ve given up road trip rights forever.

I’m sensing you don’t believe me. I can see your mouse hovering over that red dot to close this tab. Give a travel blogger, I mean, a travel writer a chance.

We fly past local farm stands and ramshackle barns that look one gust of wind away from absolute destruction. No traffic, no detours, or oil spills. Waze rules—we arrive at Inness at four hours and fifty-eight minutes.

We park. In the distance, enormous willows weep in pairs and in clusters. Queen Anne’s Lace delicately weaves around tall grasses. Cattails emerge with telltale cigar-shaped tips, adding texture to the overgrown landscape. Their pollen has already disintegrated into wispy pieces of cottony fluff that float dreamily through the air.

Thank you, Inness. This is just the welcome I’m hoping for. First, I dutifully thank the traffic gods. Next, I unsuccessfully try to get the refrain from ‘Karma Chameleon’ out of my head. We head towards check-in.

Click here for my FREE Wish List Destination Hot Sheet

Inness, the namesake

American painter George Inness came of age during the Hudson River School era. He is referred to as ‘The father of American landscape painting.’ It took me all of 60 seconds to see why the farmhouse and cabin-laden property of Inness is named for him.

A master of light and tone, George Inness couldn’t have chosen a better place to paint than this pastoral part of New York State. The landscape is the main event at Inness. Its location between the Catskill and Shawangunk mountain ranges provides both wide-angle vistas and macroscopic wildlife. I’m smitten. I think George would be, too.

Inness, the property

Inness is comprised of 28 cabins and 12 farmhouse rooms set over 220 bucolic acres. Each cabin is created to maximize the view. I had a hard time deciding where to spend my viewing time. On our private deck? On the hill by the fire pit overlooking the valley? Or, from the adults-only circle pool. In the end, I rotate between all three. I’m an equal opportunity view seeker.

Inness is all about the outdoors. Yet, the indoors have been curated and designed with ‘modern-farmhouse-chic’ in mind. A combination of sparse Scandinavian living with layers of luxury like Frette sheets and robes. Aesop toiletries and locally-sourced snacks are within arm’s reach. The cabins feel effortlessly designed, with vintage furniture and found objects, tea kettles, and minimalistic earth-toned pottery.

The Farmhouse has lovely common and outdoor spaces. A pool table, ping pong table, and corn hole are ready and waiting for a match. An honor bar opens in the afternoon, and we take full advantage of its proximity to the pool.

Fit For a King

Our King Cabin interior is a lesson in geometry. Two pentagons are divided by a square archway. A lone bulb encased by hand-blown glass dangles above a minimal wooden table in the center of the room.

Sheaths of linen are draped against the windows and match the warm dove-gray color of the walls. The Frette bed linens also match the walls, so the entire room feels bathed in shades of gray.

The bed is so underdone it appears naked. No decorative pillows, no patterns, or embellishments. It’s a perfect metaphor for Inness. Underdone, but luxurious.

Our cabin’s exterior is a lesson in simplicity. Rich, graphite-colored siding, iron-framed windows, and doors pop up between the wild green grasses. The cabins pay homage to the Catskill resorts of old, but with a casual and modern twist. They run serpentine along a dirt road that leads from the Farmhouse at one end to the restaurant barn at the other.

Click here to get my free wish list destinations hot sheet

Peas in a pod, and other delights at Inness

One of the reasons I choose Inness is its closeness to the mountains. I love hiking with Daniel. Nothing makes him happier than tackling a mountain with a view. Nothing makes me happier than eating a great meal after tackling a mountain with a view. We are two peas in the same pod.

In addition to DJ’ing five hours’ worth of Tear For Fears, A-Ha, and other dreadful 80s bands, it’s Daniel’s job to choose our hikes. It’s my job to choose our restaurants. Two peas.

Inness’ restaurant encompasses the same simplicity found elsewhere on the property. The large open dining barn has a convivial bar and two outdoor dining areas. Why anyone would choose to sit anywhere but the balcony overlooking the fields and mountains is a mystery I will never solve.

Creatures of Habit

In fact, we eat every meal at the same balcony table and never get bored—either of the menu or the views. Each night the balcony serves us much more than lovely meals.

Storms with dramatic purple clouds roll through while we share a plateful of thinly-sliced tuna carpaccio. Bolts of lightning strike during our shared course of homemade pasta. By the time our mains are served, the sky has cleared and golden light touches the fields below.

On Mondays and Tuesdays, Inness serves wood-fired pizzas and pasta dishes only. For the remainder of the week, the menu is more extensive. It includes local finds like steelhead trout with butter beans and salsa verde and an oven-roasted pork chop with charred rapini and hot honey mustard.

We did attempt to have a dinner off-property. Perhaps find a local farm with a restaurant? But we are creatures of habit, as my friends and family can attest. Leaving the ever-changing skies and sunset from the balcony never materialized. Shocker.

The Catskills Overdeliver

Daniel expects to be underwhelmed by the hiking trails in the Catskills. He’s what you’d call a hiking snob. To be fair, we’ve done some challenging hikes in the past few years. The Tetons, Chamonix, and Helvellyn, as examples. How can the Catskills compare?

I love when Daniel’s expectations are exceeded.

The downside of having no say in our hikes is that I never know what I’m getting into. Traditionally, Daniel and I fight while we hike. We fight because he gets us lost. He won’t admit that, of course. But it’s written right here on the internet so it’s 100% true.

The upside of our fighting is that it scares the bears.

Lakes and Loops

Daniel tells me we are hiking Millbrook Mountain to Gertrude’s Nose. It’s a 7-mile loop hike, rather than an in-and-out one. I’m thrilled. I don’t like in-and-out hikes. I spend the whole ‘in’ wondering when we are getting to the ‘out’. It spoils the experience.

The hike, which begins at the base of Lake Minnewaska, starts out friendly enough. Aside from the sign at the trailhead warning us that we are entering a rattlesnake habitat and to take heed. At least that takes my mind off the bears.

The hike has a soft-padded start, with fallen pine needles paving our way. Inevitably, the work begins, and the terrain gets steep. But thankfully the trail rewards us with views that are worth the struggle. And Daniel’s constant amazement at the hike’s beauty makes me feel like saying ‘I told you so.’

For the sake of marriage preservation, I refrain. Plus, he hasn’t gotten us lost yet.

On Gertrude’s Nose

Who is this Gertrude and why is her nose so climb-worthy? In a nutshell, Dutch settler Gertrude Bruyn set up her house on the range opposite this geological marvel—a cliff escarpment that projects out over the Palmaghatt Ravine ‘like a nose’. I wonder if she’s disappointed by the body part chosen for this honor.

The cliffs, crevices, and joint cracks that lead to the nose offer spectacular eastern and southern views of the Hudson Valley. It also offers a sheer drop to imminent death. If selfies are your thing, think twice. Your Instagram feed isn’t worth it. As silver linings go, maybe you’ll meet Gertrude in your next life.

Click here for my FREE wish list destinations hot sheet

Where’s the Lemon Squeeze?

Daniel tells me our next hike is called Lemon Squeeze. Cute, I think. How hard can that be? He mentions it’s another 7-mile loop, but not to worry because it’s mostly downhill. Why I don’t calculate what that says about the uphill part still boggles my mind.

One mile straight up a mountain is what I fail to compute. It’s a doozy of a climb, and I never use the word doozy. We crawl under, over, and around rocks that weigh several tons and balance precariously upon one another. A maze of boulders and tight squeezes dot the route.

Every time I think we have come upon Lemon Squeeze, an even squeezier spot appears. Finally, the real squeeze is obvious, as only children aged ten and younger or supermodels can get through without losing layers of skin.

The Real Lemon Squeeze

After climbing a slippery ladder within an ultra-narrow crevice, I pop out onto a rock ledge overlooking a cerulean blue lake and matching skies. I kiss the rocks under my hands and feet and thank the Almighty this is not an in-and-out trail. The views of Mohonk Lake, creepy Mohonk Mountain House, and the Catskill range are worth every layer of skin I lose that day.

Later, a friend texts me she hiked Lemon Squeeze too—when she was ten. I’m ever-humbled.

The best reward for a morning of hiking is threefold: food, wine, and a pool. Inness has all three waiting for us each day. We dive deep into relaxation like the seasoned professionals we are.

Click here for my Free Wish List Destinations Hot Sheet

Inness is for the dogs, and other well-behaved guests

If you live in NYC, Boston, or Philly, I envy your proximity to Inness. As is noted by the license plates which fill the parking lot, the property clearly pulls from the northeast. A mini-escape from the summer heat and city life, Inness is a quick 90-minute drive from Brooklyn. I would have definitely had control of Sirius XM if our drive was that short.

As an added bonus, Inness welcomes dogs (for a fee). The website states it accepts up to two, crated, well-socialized, and well-trained dogs per reservation. This rules out our labs for one reason for sure. That Frette duvet cover would never have survived Indy and Shaka.

However, we meet many adorable canines while at Inness. Most are better behaved than the guests.

Pool, Golf, and other obstacles at Inness

We aren’t golfers. At least not yet. I’ll go out on a limb and say I’ll never golf. But then my dad will inevitably comment, ‘Never say never! You now eat fish!’ and I’ll never hear the end of it.

I overhear a woman at the pool describing the course as having a good aura. That sounds a bit woo-woo, but what do I know about the past lives of golf courses? Built by King Collins Golf, the course has nine holes designed for ‘repeat play to fully appreciate the countless shot-making possibilities.” Their words, not mine.

Two pools book-end the property. The rectangular, kid-friendly pool and the circular adults-only one. I imagine the architects discussing how to keep shrieking children as far away from the grown-ups as possible. The ones who have just dumped, I mean, dropped off their kids at summer camp. Well-played, team Inness.

Inness takes advantage of that fantastic, new middle-aged activity—the obstacle course. Part Tough Mudder, part elementary school playground, the course is a nice alternative to the classic hotel gym, of which there is one on-site, as well.

Checking Out at Inness

Three nights at Inness is the right amount of time to escape the city heat and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. A leisurely balcony breakfast allows us to savor the valley and mountain views one last time before we pile into the car.

The check-in/check-out greenhouse of Inness doubles as a museum-like boutique and overpriced farm stand. We have our boxed leftovers from last night’s dinner for a road trip picnic. ‘This couldn’t happen on an airplane, Daniel.’ I don’t say.

We jump in the car and I quickly change the station to ’90s on 9’. I glance back at Inness. I miss the balcony.

George Inness died in 1894. According to his son, he was viewing the sunset, when he threw up his hands into the air and exclaimed, “My God! Oh, how beautiful!” Then he fell to the ground and died.

That’s the way to go.

Click here for my FREE wish list destination hot sheet

July 20, 2022

Your cart (items: 0)

Products in cart
Product	Details	Total
	Available on backorder Previous price: Discounted price:	Save