I am Lost and Found

Category: Stay

The Claremont Hotel is Acadia National Park’s Hidden Gem

The Claremont Hotel and Acadia National Park are a Maine tour de force. The recently redesigned Claremont Hotel has upped the ante on guest experiences in an unparalleled setting. So, if a glass of wine on a wraparound porch facing sunset-tinged mountains excites you, look no further than The Claremont Hotel. And, if hiking mountains to 360-degree panoramic vistas excites you, look no further than Acadia National Park. Read on to discover why The Claremont Hotel, just outside Acadia National Park, is a waterside gem.

Acadia National Park is a national treasure. After decades of overlooking beauty in my own backyard, I discover our national parks. Is it weird that my discovery overlaps Obama’s Netflix series, Our Great National Parks? Or can we all agree that he and I are kindred spirits? “Yes, we can!”

In the summer of 2020, when our overseas travel plans were so rudely interrupted, we decided to visit Utah’s Canyonlands and Arches National Parks. These desert parks were so deserted that I had no one to ask, ‘Where are you from?’. Or, ‘What brings you here?’. Questions all but guaranteed to embarrass my kids and husband.

Arches and Canyonlands encouraged us to fall back in love—with the USA.

So when a friend asked if I could join her on a girl’s trip, complete with a stay at The Claremont Hotel, including daily adventures to Bar Harbor, Mount Desert Island, and Acadia National Park, I didn’t hesitate to say, “Yes! Yes, I can!”

The Claremont Hotel + Acadia = Adventure + Luxury

Finding the optimal balance between adventure and luxury on a holiday is personal math. Some seek a 75/25 or 60/40 balance between the two. I strive for 50/50. Hmmm, does that sound like I’m satisfied with 50% of each? I’d like 100% each. So, I’m striving for a 100/100 balance. Is that even a thing? I hate math. You get the point.

The Claremont Hotel on Mount Desert Island is the consummate compliment to an adventure in Maine’s Acadia National Park. My sought-after 100/100. Unfortunately, I can’t take credit for finding this waterside escape on the edge of Somes Sound. What I can do is pass it along with reasons why it makes a heavenly home base for an Acadia National Park trip.

For me, passing on nuggets of inspiration so that others may enjoy it is what travel is all about. That’s certainly why this website exists. It’s no fun being the only one to know about a sensational travel destination like Acadia National Park or a hot place like the Claremont Hotel. Well, sometimes it’s fun. As long as I get there first.

The Claremont Hotel, first impressions

Our car weaves up and around rolling hills and through scenic towns like Bar Harbor. I see Mount Desert Island in the distance. I see handcrafted signs that cheer, ‘Welcome To Maine! The Way Life Should Be!’ I’ll be the judge of that, I think cynically.

When we pull into The Claremont Hotel’s long driveway I can’t help but take a moment’s pause. A soft landing for my eyes and ears. In front of me stands a grand, lily-white, three-story home set against a cornflower blue sky. I hear the lulling melody of seagulls overhead.

Fuchsia geraniums and forest green ivy cascade over window boxes. A carpet of short, manicured grass lead my gaze toward the mirror-calm sound. Mountains rise majestically in the distance. I pause a little longer, resisting the urge to snap, tag, and post.

I feel like I’m home. I’ve yet to step onto the full wraparound porch or into the Claremont Hotel itself. I’ve been here less than five minutes and I’m already disappointed I’ll eventually have to leave. I know a treasure when I see one.

The Claremont Hotel, The Captain’s Choice

The Claremont Hotel is a historic and impeccably maintained six-acre property on Southwest Harbor, near Acadia National Park. It was built as a summer destination for wealthy families to escape the oppressive summer heat of the northeast. Its location near Bar Harbor was hand-picked by a retired sea captain named Jesse Pease. Capt. Jesse knew a treasure when he saw one, too.

Built in 1883, the Claremont Hotel was family-run until 1908 when it was sold to a local doctor. In 2020, it was bought by hospitality guru and real estate developer, Tim Harrington. Mr. Harrington is also the man behind other magnificent Maine properties like Hidden Pond and Tides Beach Club.

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The Claremont Hotel: Sights and Scents

Upon entering the hotel, I first notice a tall, white ceramic dog sitting regally on a window ledge. Instead of facing inwards toward the room, this stoic Doberman is facing out, admiring the lavish grounds, just like me.

The next thing I notice isn’t visible. It’s sandalwood—the Claremont Hotel’s signature scent. Signature scents are all the rage these days. I saunter past the Doberman, knowing full well I’m being lured into the gift shop against my will. Now, every time I enter my living room in DC I’m reminded that I’m no longer at the beautiful Claremont Hotel. Pavlov’s theory was no joke.

The Claremont Hotel’s main house has common spaces that ignite my love of interior design and all things pretty. To say I swoon is an understatement. Patterns I’d expect to clash, instead harmonize. Palettes that I’ve always disliked, I suddenly love. Sister Parish paper wraps the walls. It’s textile nirvana—as if the DC Design Center exploded and thousands of colorful fabric samples were forced to find new soul mates.

Each piece of furniture feels collected rather than bought. Every coffee table book appears well-read and well-loved. The room has an ever-burning fireplace and a games table where I spy guests actually gaming. And I don’t mean Xbox. It’s so accommodating and peaceful, that I’m tempted to sink into a chair and stay there indefinitely.

But I don’t. There’s so much to explore both indoors and out at The Claremont Hotel. I only have three days. Time is of the essence.

The Claremont Hotel: A room, cottage, or house, with a view

I’d normally gravitate towards a cottage or house when at a property like the Claremont Hotel. But I wouldn’t have traded my intimate and bright guest room in the main house of this gorgeous Acadia hotel for any other that week. This being a girls’ trip, I have a room to myself—a rare event, indeed. I don’t take it for granted.

The main house has three and a half floors and 24 guest rooms. The rooms facing the front of the Claremont Hotel have the before-mentioned window boxes. The rooms facing Somes sound receive the morning sun. Beds have piles of cushy pillows propped up against William Morris fabric-covered headboards. Fabric-covered headboards are propped up against patterned-covered walls. Patterns rule at The Claremont. I’m tempted to stay in my room all day to admire them.

But I don’t. Acadia National Park is calling. And my friend is antsy to get going. She’s a very fast walker. The last time we hiked together was in Uganda tracking the Silverback Gorillas. I’m hoping she slows her pace this time. These views don’t weigh 600 lbs and move.

Acadia calls

Lest I forget the reason for our trip—three days of taxing trails, peaks, and panoramas in Acadia National Park. At nearly 50,000 acres, the park includes natural coastlines with rocky headlands, exposed granite rock faces, and U-shaped valleys. It has biodiverse wetlands, stone beaches, and pine forests. Pretty impressive stats, Acadia. I’m putting on my hiking boots now. Be patient!

Acadia National Park is home to Cadillac Mountain, the tallest mountain on America’s eastern seaboard. Tack on 158 miles of hiking trails, 27 miles of motorized roads, and 45 miles of pedestrian-only carriage roads, and I easily calculate, (even with my miserable math skills), that I don’t have enough time here.

Built between 1913 and 1940, the historic carriage road network was a gift from philanthropist and oil tycoon John D. Rockefeller. Sixteen low-arched granite bridges connect the pebble-lined paths. Mr. Rockefeller, an avid horseman, was adamant the park be non-motorized. I hope his horses appreciated the gesture.

Off-Season Rules

We visit Maine in mid-May, which is considered off-season. My friend warns us that Mother Nature isn’t always kind to Maine in May and tells us to prepare for cold and rain. Ever the rule follower, I do just that, despite the weather forecast that continues to predict sunnier and warmer climes than the destination I’m coming from.

Over the next three days, I’m ridiculed for my over-preparedness. Go ahead and laugh. Had we gotten lost, I would have been the only one with a baggie of trail mix and a Stroopwafel.

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The Ladders and Loops of Acadia National Park

This brings me to our Acadia park hikes. As advertised, the 3.3-mile Ladder Trail Loop that leads to the summit of Dorr Mountain includes a series of ladders to help scale the rock faces. I liken the Ladder Trail to an open-air StairMaster.

Any part of the trail that is not a ladder is a steep granite step. I curse the person who made these steps. I curse the person who invented ladders. My quads curse me. But then we get to the summit and all is forgiven.

The following morning, we tackle St. Saveur and Acadia Mountains. A 3.9-mile loop with two glorious mountain peaks. The trail meanders around lichen and moss-covered boulders. Gnarled, ancient tree trunks appear rooted in the rocks themselves.

The pines have clusters of lavender buds against green needles. Wild purple Rhodora emerges en masse and frames the distant views. Little kelly green ferns unfurl. Later, I recognize these very colors sewn into the fabrics at The Claremont. Mother Nature’s palette never disappoints.

The trail takes us above the conifer tree line for a rewarding water-filled view. More than once we get turned around and retrace our steps to find the trail markers. No one mentions my stash of Stroopwafels, but I know they are jealous.

Stop and smell the blueberries

Maine may be known for blueberries, but in mid-May, we are out of luck. I’m willing to sacrifice the plump blueberries to the bears in order to have the trails to ourselves.

Acadia National Park, however, thrives in ways well beyond flowering and fruiting shrubs. Evergreen pitch pines and colorful native woodland flora abound. At the water’s edge, I peer into mini eco-systems living within the tidal pools. While we don’t see much wildlife, I’m told there are otters, deer, red foxes, and of course, bears, if you look hard enough.

The Claremont Hotel: Porchin’

We survive the hike, the ladders, the granite StairMaster, and the bears. Time to bask in our accomplishments. Back at the Claremont Hotel, a hot shower beckons, followed by a front-row seat on an evergreen rattan porch rocker with a glass of wine. The rest of my day will be rosé-tinted and food-centric.

The porch. It’s undoubtedly the best outdoor spot at The Claremont Hotel. In the foreground, there is a welcoming heated pool, with pink and white striped umbrellas that summon up scenes from Dirty Dancing. (Ugh. I forgot to avoid all cultural references that reveal my age.)

The pool is surrounded by an intricate pattern of lattice-cut grass. At the Claremont Hotel, even the lawn has patterns. In the distance, there are mountains to daydream about climbing. On the porch, there are green blankets in a basket to take the edge off the crisp air. I savor the soothing built-in beauty of the hotel while reflecting on our day. I reflect on Patrick Swayze. My 100/100 balance of luxury and adventure is realized.

Meet Harry and Fern

I’d be remiss if I didn’t introduce Harry and Fern. Two ways to enjoy dining and drinking at the Claremont Hotel. What a coincidence that these happen to be my two favorite post-hike activities.

The Claremont Hotel’s main restaurant, Little Fern, isn’t little, but somehow still feels cozy. Kudos to the interior design team for the homey touches. Built-in bookcases, a fireplace, soft banquettes, an entire wall of windows, and a large bar that has us making friends at first sip.

I order a cocktail that matches the ever-present hot pink geraniums. I’m nothing if not matchy-matchy. Ask anyone. Even my dogs match.

The food is good, although the portions are too large, even for hungry post-hikers like us. My risotto entrée could have fed the city of Milan. By the next night, we decide to share, which is more fun anyway. Perfetto!

The Claremont Hotels’ clubby, chummy Harry’s Bar is the kind of place to snuggle into with a tumbler of bourbon at an antique chessboard. I don’t drink bourbon or play chess, but Harry’s Bar makes me feel like I should. I imagine Harry’s is best visited on nights when the porch is too cold, but that said, I’d be hard-pressed to pass up having a drink there despite the weather.

Swarthy sea captains peer down on us from oil paintings above. I hope Cpt. Jesse doesn’t mind the bar is named after some yahoo named Harry.

A fine balance

I do the math again and get the same outcome. The combo of The Claremont Hotel and a visit to Acadia National Park strikes an ideal balance between luxury and adventure. You need not be an artist, designer, or photographer to appreciate the natural beauty of both. The colors rooted in Acadia and Mount Desert Island are mirrored at the Claremont—gem tones like emeralds, sapphires, and pink tourmaline abound.

A national treasure is defined as ‘something that is greatly valued by the people of a country.’ With its all-encompassing natural beauty, Acadia National Park certainly fits the definition. Combine Acadia National Park with a stay at the Claremont Hotel and they become a treasured pair. “Maine! The way life should be!” Can we agree on that, Barack?

“Yes, we can!”

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June 23, 2022
How To Spend An Unforgettable Weekend In Joshua Tree

There are countless ways to spend a weekend in and around Joshua Tree National Park. Bike, hike, climb, stargaze. Take a sound bath, watch the sunrise, and spot a shooting star. Rent a vintage Airstream or a modern Airbnb. How you spend a weekend in Joshua Tree is personal, and sometimes spiritual. Need some inspiration to plan a weekend in Joshua Tree? You’re in the right place.

Desert sky
Dream beneath the desert sky
The rivers run, but soon run dry
We need new dreams tonight

—In God’s Country, U2

The Joshua Tree, circa 1987

I storm out of the house. A flimsy metal headband secures foam-covered earbuds to my head. Tangled cords attach my head to a fiery yellow Sony Walkman Sport. The color is appropriate, as it matches my blazing teenage angst.

It’s March of 1987 and U2 has just released The Joshua Tree. Without exaggeration, it’s a defining moment in my ego-centric, music-driven teenage life. The album, their 5th, may have catapulted U2 to superstardom, but I’m already in deep. I know every song lyric from War, Boy, Under a Blood Red Sky, and The Unforgettable Fire, by heart.

I’m 17 years old. Ecstatic and furious at the same time. Two sides of the same record.

I haven’t a clue what a Joshua tree is, or where it’s found. Only now, decades later, do I find myself in God’s Country, the very part of the world that inspired these eleven unforgettable songs.

Joshua Tree, A brief history

Joshua Tree National Park is in southeast California, about 50 minutes from Palm Springs, but easily accessed by car from Los Angeles, Las Vegas, or San Diego. It outsizes the state of Rhode Island ever-so-slightly at 795,156 acres.

It’s named after the signature Joshua trees (Yucca brevifolia) that are native to the Mojave Desert. Joshua trees are succulents closely related to the agave plant. If your mind shoots straight to tequila then you and my husband are kindred spirits.

I learn from Wikipedia, that the Joshua tree is a symbol of faith and hope in the midst of aridity. Early Mormon settlers named them after the prophet Joshua, as the branches reminded them of him raising his arms in prayer.

To me, the shape of the Joshua tree looks like my son when I accuse him of devouring the last two pints of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream. His arms rise up defensively in disbelief while I point out empty cartons of Americone Dream and The Tonight Dough in the garbage bin.

A pile of rocks and a sea of stars

Among the two best reasons to spend a weekend in Joshua Tree are the rocks and the stars. Some of the park’s oldest rocks are 1.7 billion years old and owe their shape to groundwater that has eroded their hard edges. 1.7 billion years is hard to comprehend, and I imagine this ancient timeline contributes to the spirituality of the area.

Golden boulders look like overlapping mounds of soft, drippy sand kids create on the beach. I climb a pile of these massive rocks. In every direction, I see specks of human life. Some are sitting, eyes wide open, absorbing the vortices of the desert. Others are meditating, eyes closed in contemplation. The serenity of the park is palpable. No wonder it attracts 3 million visitors a year.

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A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Stargazing

Joshua Tree National Park is a stargazing utopia. It’s certified by International Dark Sky Parks as one of the best natural ‘dark sky’ places in the world. The IDSP has been ‘protecting the night from light pollution since 1988’. That’s just one year after The Joshua Tree was released. I wonder if Bono knows about this?

With astrotourism (yes, astrological tourism is a thing) on the rise, the eastern side of the park provides some of the darkest skies in the area. If you want to get closer to the universe, this is the place to do it.

Our Airbnb is located about 15 minutes from the park’s west entrance. The sky at night looks infinite in its lunar starkness. We spend hours flat on our backs to take it in.

I try not to blink. The sky is awash in stars brighter than I’ve ever seen. The Milky Way is showing off. More than once a meteor silently screams across the sky, with a long tail of energy trailing behind. Those who see it shout in delight while the ones who don’t pout and say we’ve made it up. This nightly activity is a highlight of my weekend in Joshua Tree. I’d declare myself starry-eyed if it weren’t such an awful pun.

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: The Park

Joshua Tree is easy to tackle in one day, or in our case, just a few hours. Perhaps lounging around the Airbnb all morning with a cappuccino is not the optimal way to plan a national park day. By the time we finally head out we realize our lunch will be so ill-timed it threatens to spill into dinner. Some of us, me, are already hangry.

Since we blow through the park at breakneck speed, I’ll identify must-see places for future reference. I don’t recall which landmarks we visit that day as I’m so ravenous I can’t see straight. Thankfully the park itself is so tranquil and peaceful, that I’m able to put my hunger aside to enjoy it.

A few highlights follow, in semi-logical order. Don’t blame me if you get lost, I’m not a travel advisor for good reason.

A few highlights

The route starting from the south entrance towards the west entrance could look like this:

Cholla Cactus Garden: A great place to begin, especially for sunrise junkies. The masses of soft and fluffy-looking cacti species are sweetly called Teddybear Cholla, but I wouldn’t attempt to cuddle one.

Arch Rock: At 30 feet across, this natural arch at Joshua Tree doesn’t rival its counterparts at Arches National Park, but it’s still worth a look. Joshua Tree allows visitors to climb the boulders making the park feel like a prehistoric playground.

Skull Rock: A rock shaped like, you guessed it, a skull. Kind of underwhelming. Possibly due to the throng of visitors or the straight-up fact that I’m still really hungry. Skull Rock is located just off the side of the road so it’s easy to do a fly-by if the crowds are overwhelming.

Keys View: For sunset chasers, head to Keys View to catch the late afternoon sun that enhances the colors of the landscape. Rivers of the past are now a dusty mocha brown, and snake between the arid valleys. All in all, it’s nothing short of spectacular.

Author’s Note: In case you’re curious about our lunch crisis (and something tells me you’ve quickly forgotten it) I’ll fill you in. We pull up to Pappy & Harriet’s jam-packed parking lot at 230pm and are told there’s a 45-minute wait. Ugh. Next time, I’m packing a picnic.

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Beyond the rocks

Joshua Tree National Park’s surrounding areas have much to offer beyond the park itself. Three of the main nearby towns are Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley, and Twentynine Palms. Each lies within a short drive to one of the park’s three entrances (north, south, or west). Each has its own homestead desert vibe, quirky attractions, and accommodation options.

Rock Shops and Crystals

I don’t plan to visit Joshua Tree to get in touch with my spiritual side, but it’s hard to avoid. The area is oozing with opportunities to experience spirituality. Yoga retreats, sound baths, and ancient vortices are just a few ways to recharge and relax.

The Joshua Tree Rock Shop sells gems and crystals that each have their own characteristics and healing properties. Collect a piece of Amber so you can carry around your very own piece of the sun. Or, Angelite to communicate with Spirit Guides. I buy Amethyst for my daughter, to counter negative energy. And Rose Quartz for myself to cope with negative daughters.

Our trip revolves around a friend’s birthday. We are a group of six, three couples, who have known each other for over 15 years. Between us, we fall into the wide array of types that are drawn to this far-flung part of the country—artists, musicians, writers, and yogis, among us. Joshua Tree is a retreat with wide appeal. It’s hard to imagine anyone not finding comfort and peace here.

Wine and Rocks

With organic wines, craft beers, gems, crystals, stones, and good vibes, the Wine and Rock Shop is as eclectic as they come. Walk in and stock up on Tutu’s Tortilla Chips and a bottle of Gearhead Crazy Sexy Cool wine for a post-hike snack. Leave with a Blue Agate Plate to improve concentration. Wait, what did I come in for again? Go ahead and get distracted. It’s all good here.

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A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Getting Spiritual

The Integraton looks like a 50-year-old sci-fi movie set. Located in Landers, CA, about 20 miles north of the park, and built in 1954, this geodesic structure is a well-known sound bath and a historically recognized place for rejuvenation.

While it’s said to be created according to the design direction of extraterrestrials, the Integraton is worth a visit whether you believe in life beyond our planet or not. I’m pretty open-minded, but can’t quite wrap my head around aliens as art director. If nothing else, its Instagram-ability is reason enough to go.

The Integraton is built on a powerful intersection of geomagnetic forces which is thought to amplify the earth’s magnetic field. The 60-minute sound bath experience promotes sonic healing and total relaxation. As you might imagine, it’s highly popular and needs to be booked well in advance.

Is it all bit woo-woo? Yes! But that’s part of why I’m here. I want to get out of my light-polluted city and into a different mental state. I’d like to explore the desert in all of its glory. If that happens to include lying down under a blanket with 40 strangers in a sci-fi movie-esque, alien-engineered, geo-dome that’s miles from civilization, sign me up.

The experience is, umm, different. I wish I could say I felt the powerful forces of the earth’s magnetism beneath me. I wish I felt electrically charged and noticeably changed afterward. Perhaps I’m not evolved enough. Wearing a face mask didn’t help my breathing technique and someone next to me was snoring. I won’t name names. Enrico.

Jokes aside, it’s an intriguing experience I’d like to do again (sans facemasks) someday. The dome is so ET-friendly that I’m afraid it might get sucked up into space before I get a chance to revisit it.

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Where to stay

Airbnbs are prevalent in Joshua Tree. So much so that the New York Times recently wrote an article begging the question “Is 1,818 Airbnbs Too Many in Joshua Tree?” Our Airbnb, Tierra Del Sol, is so remote we get lost driving the dirt roads back to it at night. To think there are 1,817 others nearby is mind-boggling.

Yet, there’s little doubt the modern desert aesthetic has been rebranded in Joshua Tree, partially due to Instagram and a boom of COVID-induced domestic travel. The ‘Joshua Tree look’ is pretty hard to dislike, especially for those of us on the east coast who don’t live near nude-shaded landscapes with dried botanical gardens and cowhide rugs.

The ‘Joshua Tree look’ can be summed up as boho, high-desert swank sprinkled with bleached-out antlers, hand-woven baskets, rattan poofs, and cowboy hot tubs. That summation is a bit wordy but necessary for accuracy.

Fireplace mantles are oh-so-perfectly staged with stone buddhas, cacti, crystals, and local pottery. Tack on Wolf ranges and Miele built-in coffee machines and you’d think Design Within Reach changed its creative model to Eat-Pray-Love-homestead chic.

Some Airbnbs accessorize their properties with pétanque courts, stand-alone lounges, and windswept, curtain-lined, wedding chapels.

Others boast low eco-footprint, energy-efficient, zero waste accommodations alongside giant gas-lit fire pits.

Others are practically invisible.

PC: The Invisible House

The Invisible House

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the overwhelming, overpublicized, and overpriced Invisible House.

Mirroring nature—and I mean literally mirroring nature, this $4050/night property is set on 90-desert acres. It has, among other amenities, its own 4,000 ft. mountain and 100 ft. indoor pool. It’s a visual feast for those who don’t mind the mountainous price tag.

PC: The Invisible House

The 5500 sq. ft. 22-story horizontal structure sleeps only six, but if you have more guests, fear not. They can stay in the 720 sq. ft. pre-fab ‘escape pod’ somewhere else on the property. Just don’t expect them to still be your friends afterward.

Don’t want to shell out $4050 a night for a weekend at Joshua Tree’s Invisible House? No worries, it can be all yours for the bargain price of $1,750 an hour. Instagram it and get out.

Desert Vintage circa 1975

Airstreams in Joshua Tree are all the rage, not to mention a way to get up close and personal with the desert. The features that accompany some of these vintage trailers are as unusual as the surroundings themselves.

PC: Airbnb

Some Airstreams have swinging queen sized-beds for stargazing. Others have metal barrel hot tubs, outdoor living spaces, and raised wooden decks adorned with twinkling fairy lights. Really? Who needs the fairy lights when you have the starry skies above?

A Weekend in Joshua Tree: Where to eat

The beauty of an Airbnb stay is the ability to cook your own meals. It’s simultaneously a downfall for those who go on vacation to not cook. As always, balance wins. We decide to eat a few lunches out but have breakfasts and dinners in. This turns out to be a hidden blessing as there’s no way we’d be able to find the house at night anyway. This is an International Dark Sky Zone, mind you.

One night a local chef creates a feast for the birthday girl’s dinner, while other nights we grill, sit by the fire pit, and stargaze with a bottle of wine.

For those seeking ultra-fine dining, the desert is not the place for you. Most restaurants are casual and informal.

Worth a mention

La Copine: This 42-seat highway-side, uber-casual eatery attracts foodies for miles. And for good reason. Said to have the best fried chicken in the desert (am I the only one wondering where the chickens live in the desert?) the menu tackles items like artichoke toast, Spanish crispy rice, and duck confit among other culinary delights. Eclectic indeed, and highly sought after.

Pappy & Harriett’s: Go early or don’t go, in my humble opinion. But if you’re as hungry as I am when you arrive, everything will taste as if it’s prepared by a Michelin-starred chef.

A convivial hangout if there ever was one, Pappy’s is the place to listen to live music, dance, and throw back a pint of beer along with some baby back ribs. If you have to wait for a table—AND YOU WILL—you can pass the time in Pioneertown, conveniently located a short walk behind the restaurant.

Pioneertown is as cheesy as it sounds. Built as an old western movie set in the 40s, it has all of the expected kitsch from the General Store, Red Dog Saloon, and fancy soap goats. Ok, maybe that part is not expected. What’s a soap goat? Maybe you can find out. You’ll have lots of time to kill.

The Natural Sisters Cafe: The website reads “Food made with kindness, focus and love.” Who can argue with that philosophy? Known for vegetarian and plant-based wraps, sandwiches, and smoothies, this local eatery caters to the breakfast and lunch crowd. Located close to the Joshua Tree entrance, it’s an especially good spot to hit before you head into the park.

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Outside it’s America

On the last morning of our short weekend in Joshua Tree, I wake up before sunrise. On purpose. This is unusual for me. I value sleep more than just about anything, except perhaps wine and coffee.

I sneak outside just as the first rays are rising over the distant mountains, some of which are still snow-capped in March. The mountain range silhouette is razor-sharp on this unusually cold morning. I race back inside to grab a blanket (in shades of desert neutrals, naturally) wooly hat, and fuzzy birks. Desert cold is no joke.

It’s worth the early hour and cold feet. The scene illustrates why an Irish band would pay homage to the open spaces of America. I summon up the theatrical and melodic notes of Where The Streets Have No Name—the first song on the album. I stand still.

It’s written in the Stars

As I write, the haunting harmony of The Joshua Tree envelops me—this time tangle-free on my wireless AirPods and iPhone 13. The music is as ethereal and transporting as it was then. But now I listen to it through the framework of Joshua Tree—the place.

What connected me to the music back then is realized decades later on the deck of this gorgeous desert house. The soundtrack of my teenage life comes back with a roar. Milky blue desert skies and cracked riverbeds are lyrical elements of U2’s best-selling album. They define the music and this vast landscape, but also a state of mind. I vow to see the park again one day to spend more time absorbing it.

When I do, I’ll make sure I eat first.

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May 23, 2022
This Lake Como Hotel Has Great Expectations

The Lake Como hotel everyone is talking about these days is Il Sereno. With a Michelin-starred restaurant and all-encompassing lake views, it’s no wonder this lakeside gem is so hot. Take a peek inside this glamorous, yet understated, Lake Como hotel and start packing.

It’s hard to think of a destination with more at stake than Lake Como. Famous for extravagant villas, breathtaking views, Neoclassical hotels, decadent food, and the Clooneys, of course. Lake Como has a lot to live up to. Choosing a Lake Como Hotel, however, is a no-brainer.

Where is Lake Como?

Lake Como is about an hour from Milan airport, but in many ways, a world apart from the busy city. It’s a wonder there aren’t more accidents on the narrow, winding roads that curve serpentine around the lake. We aren’t the only ones with mouths agape, trying desperately to catch a view as we peel around corners. It’s like we are in fear that the lake may vanish if we didn’t see it at that very moment.

Boats dot the water, looking computer-generated and perfectly placed Truman Show-style. Sailboats mix in with wooden Rivas, Vaporetto water taxis, and other flashy speedboats. One especially unique sight is of two nearly naked Italian men in a narrow canoe, most certainly intoxicated, rowing their hearts out to American jazz. The lake offers all kinds of entertainment!

When it comes to Lake Como Hotels: Research pays off

After a fair amount of hotel research, we opt to go against the Renaissance and Neoclassical grain. We choose a new, mid-century modern Lake Como hotel. Il Sereno sits quietly on the edge of the lake, in one of the prettiest spots on the eastern bank.

It’s a stark contrast to the lakes’ expected architecture. A contrast that calls for a moment’s pause, as it somehow naturally feels like it belongs in that very spot. A wondrous feat by acclaimed Milan-based designer, Patricia Urquiola/ She created it in tandem with botanist Patrick Blanc in 2016. I read that she didn’t want to produce a ‘fake, old’ hotel. Instead, she was inspired to be modern in a sea of tradition.

The gardens are wild, yet elegant, with an ever-so-slightly haphazard feeling. But, make no mistake—each plant, flower, and tree has been purposefully and thoughtfully placed by Mr. Blanc to achieve this laissez-faire effect. One of the best moments of each day is the short walk to the hotel’s entrance. Vivid flowers line the entryway and spill out onto the path.

Lake Como’s Lake Drama

Part of what makes Lake Como so dramatic is how it looks magically dropped between the tall mountains like a puddle. No beaches, just the idyllic villages that cluster at the base of the mountains and on the edge of the water, usually with a church tower in sight.

Villas of all sizes creep up the steep hills, which makes Lake Como feel hidden away from the rest of the world. The ubiquitous Italian terra cotta and slightly sloped rooftops lump together. They form a soothing warm palette against the green mountains and the brilliant blue lake.

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Lake Como’s Glitzy Side

Lake Como, the third largest lake in Italy, is famously shaped like an upside-down ‘Y’, with the glitzy town of Bellagio at the crux of the three branches. We take a water taxi one morning from Il Sereno to the bustling village. It’s clear early on that Bellagio is destined to be a tourist trap, and we settle into a café for a cappuccino to discuss our next move.

Bellagio is pretty in a fairytale kind of way. It’s home to many Lake Como hotels along its steep, narrow lanes and cobbled streets. But, it’s heaving with uninspired and uninspiring boutiques, souvenir shops, and tourists. We think ahead to what lies beyond Bellagio.

The Other Bellagio

Google Maps pinpoints we are a 20-minute walk from the ‘other’ Bellagio. Quiet, unassuming homes, cobbled streets, and only one restaurant—a world away from the masses. We finish our espressos and take a scenic walk through Villa Melzi d’Eril Gardens en route to find the other Bellagio.

The villa and gardens of Villa Melzi d’Eril date back to the 1800s. While the villa itself is not open to visitors, the stroll through the gardens is a highlight of our trip. We pass Japanese maples and koi ponds with large flowering lily pads. Enormous trees, oversized rhododendron, and clusters of mature hot pink azalea bushes line the paths. Some trees are so old and knotted they hang precariously over the lake like frail, flowered limbs.

Ancient cedar trees and various Egyptian and Roman sculptures complement the botanical scene. Twenty minutes later we find ourselves in a little village where time seems to have completely stopped.

Finding Silvio in Lake Como

There are no shops or boutiques in this other Bellagio, just quiet, peaceful, steep lanes. We meander towards Silvio’s. We arrive at noon, early by Italian standards, and the kitchen isn’t open. Ordering a bottle of white wine seemed the Italian thing to do. So we do it and settle into the afternoon. It’s the antithesis of our early morning start in Bellagio, which is already a distant glitzy memory.

Silvio’s is a genuine European throwback. Built in 1919, this Lake Como hotel has only 21 rooms and is simple and lovely in a timeless way. The vine-covered garden patio where we have lunch slowly begins to fill up, and a muted buzz sets in. Fresh fish, local homemade pasta, and delicious olive oil for the warm bread have us taking our time. Soon enough two hours have passed.

The Lake Como Hotel with 360 views

Our room at Il Sereno is a corner suite that boasts a long outdoor terrace and unobstructed lake views through the floor-to-ceiling glass windows. This Lake Como hotel is a mix of contemporary and functional design and uses a combination of natural materials. Ms. Urquiola is adventurous in her scope. Leather, fabric, stone, wood, and metal, all feel as if they are meant to be combined.

The exterior lines of the hotel itself are a lesson in geometry—a Bauhaus lover’s dream. Offset by the lush gardens, Il Sereno, while über-modern in architecture, looks inviting and warm, rather than severe and angular.

Despite the fabulous materials, architecture, and gardens—natural light is the ultimate design component in this Lake Como hotel. And it comes at no cost. When light is used the way it is at Il Sereno, every room and detail naturally reaps the benefits.

Lake Life and Pool Life at Il Sereno

The large, rectangular pool at Il Sereno looks as if it is hovering above the lake itself. At 60 feet long and dotted with well-placed loungers and teepee-like canopies, it’s a perfect spot to waste time. The dedicated pool staff is on hand with wine, water, towels, and just about anything else we need. Clouds roll past and create different patterns on the lake’s surface. I find it impossible to concentrate on my book. Eventually, I give up altogether and succumb to the views.

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The Lake Como Hotel with a Michelin Star

One of the main draws of Il Sereno is its restaurant, Berton Al Lago. Milan-based restauranteur/Michelin-starred chef, Andrea Berton, and Executive Chef Raffaele Lenzi team up to create a chic vibe in a grotto-like Venetian stone setting.

The original stone archways are over 100 years old and create an intimate dining experience. They artfully frame the awe-inspiring mountains. Each time I walk past an archway, a new and slightly different view appears.

The food is modern Italian, using ingredients sourced from Il Sereno’s own gardens. The wall-to-ceiling glass wine cellar, with its sleek, modern fixtures, is a dramatic focal point. The wine list is equally dazzling. We choose the tasting menu and put ourselves in the chef’s hands.

It’s one of those moments when Lake Como decidedly lives up to its amplified reputation. The service may have been a touch slow, but we soon realize that is just the Italian way. Slow and relaxed, leisurely and calm. Maybe we have something to learn from Italian life?

Food for Thought in Lake Como

Having only three dinners in Lake Como, we give some thought to satiating our inner foodies. My husband had seen an Instagram post for Ristorante Crotto dei Platani, and we spontaneously booked it based on the idyllic lake setting.

The veranda at Crotto dei Platani floats above the lake, with snow-capped Italian Alps in the distance. It’s a bucolic scene worthy of its many insta-likes. But truth be told, the food is conventional, and we felt that the restaurant relies on its epic views at the sacrifice of the food.

The next night we drive inland for a Northern Italian meal. We sacrifice the lake view for an intimate, hilltop village restaurant in Cernobbio. In the early 1900s, Trattoria del Glicine was a rest stop and community center for passing villagers. Now, it’s a beautiful family-run trattoria.

Its outdoor veranda is on a quiet street and ancient wisteria hangs en masse overhead. Our waiter jokes that he isn’t sure ‘if the canopy is holding up the wisteria, or the other way around’. Either way, it’s a tranquil and serene dining experience. Diners hoping to walk in for a coveted table are sadly turned away. I try not to look smug.

The food is local, fresh, and authentic—exactly what we are hoping for. It’s worth passing on the lake for this tucked-away spot in the middle of nowhere.

Great Expectations in Lake Como

As we prepare to leave this idyllic Lake Como hotel, I’m reminded of a moment just a few days earlier when we first drove into the town of Como.

That Sunday morning the crowds were minimal, the shops closed, and from the medieval side streets, we heard only the occasional clanking from kitchens preparing for lunch. I didn’t know what to expect then. I didn’t know if Lake Como was just an overhyped tourist destination that couldn’t live up to expectations.

Sometimes, it’s nice not knowing what to expect.

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April 30, 2022
5 Top 5 Travel Wish Lists: Where To Go Right Now

I’m at Black Coffee, sitting on a cushy, green leather banquette—my usual spot. On my right are two well-heeled Washingtonians talking about Koks, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in, wait for it—the Faroe Islands. I can’t contain my excitement! I know Koks–it’s on my travel wish list! How in the world do they know about Koks? I’m dying to ask. Then reconsider.

That would be weird.

My excitement manifests physically. It’s like I’ve had six espresso shots in as many minutes. I’m quite literally bouncing off the banquette. The women leave rather suddenly. I wonder if my bouncing has something to do with it.

What’s the point?

Let me back up a few hours—to 8am in my kitchen. I settle into a swivel chair with an oat milk cappuccino. I swirl, twirl, and sip while playing Worlde, Quordle, and Spelling Bee. This perky combination of caffeine and wordplay ignites my brain on even the dreariest DC mornings.

That the outcome of these games determines my mood is an overstatement. But I’d be lying if I said the days I get Wordle-in-two doesn’t feel good. Combine that with ‘genius’ status on Spelling Bee and a winning Quordle, and it’s the trifecta of morning happiness. Sometimes I go right back to bed, exhausted from having overachieved so early in the day.

I’ve devoted a paragraph to my New York Times-centric morning routine for good reason. ‘Geez, get to the point already!’, you’re thinking. The point is, while most mornings are uneventful and dominated by a trio of silly brainteasers, some days I overhear a pair of chatty women in a coffee shop, and my brain kicks into overdrive.

Travel talk gives me a jolt as powerful as those six shots of espresso. It fuels me in a way that can only be described in multiple coffee-related metaphors. As illustrated by my encounter at Black Coffee, being a participant in the conversation is irrelevant.

Travel Wish Lists

My travel wish list has been curated from multiple trustworthy sources. Sources like Condé Nast Traveler’s ‘Gold List’, Travel+Leisure’s ‘It List’, Forbes Travel Guide’s Star Award Winners, and San Pellegrino’s ‘World’s Best List’. And increasingly more often from the most-addictive travel resource ever—Instagram. My wish list is always at hand, by which I mean is on my phone, which is always in my hand.

‘But, where to begin?’ My travel wish list is a lengthy, unorganized account of hotels, lodges, countries, cities, ranches, and restaurants. An inventory of adventures, experiences, and expeditions. Describing them all would far exceed my typical 2500-word count.

I pause to think. (This pause lasts a week). My brain, only moments ago on a Quorldle high, is now creatively stuck. I’m swimming in mental cement.

Aha! I’ll list my top five travel wish lists. Not only will it be entertaining to write, but it will also force me to organize this ongoing, unsystematic list that has been vexing me for years.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Wish List v. Lust List

Years ago, I created an entry in my ‘Notes’ app called, ‘Travel Lust’. For the sake of SEO, I’m renaming it Travel Wish List. If you think the words Travel Wish List are being overused already, it’s not by accident. Anyone who’s had experience with Search Engine Optimization will understand why. And, I certainly don’t want this post to rank for ‘lust’. That’s someone else’s blog, I mean, website.

My top five travel wish lists in five categories follow. Hotels and Resorts, Lodges and Retreats, Experiences, Countries, and Culinary Adventures. One winner and four other winners per category. There are no losers, it’s a wish list remember.

This is going to be fun, and possibly very expensive—for all of us.

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PC: Hotel Esencia

My Travel Wish List: 5 / Hotels and Resorts

Wish List Winner: Hotel Esencia, Xpu-Ha, Mexico

Last month, a friend sent me an article about Hotel Esencia, in Mexico. After reading it, I sent it to my husband Daniel, explaining my deep need to go there. He now deeply dislikes her.

This happens often, much to my husband’s chagrin. Many of these seemingly harmless emails turn into future three-night, non-refundable deposits. My list is longer than I have time or money to accomplish. But please, keep sending. Daniel will need to postpone retirement for a few more years. I’m sure he’s ok with that.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Esencia sky-rocketed to the top of my travel wish list. Conceptualized by a Hollywood producer and entrepreneur, the hotel’s 45 rooms and suites, and three uber-sophisticated villas were once the private hideaway of Italian duchess, Rosa de Ferrari. Lucky duchess.

Quiet, unassuming, and refined luxury abounds. Located between Tulum and Cancún, Esencia’s home-away-from-home vibe is intentional (that is, if your home is beachside, flanked by jungles, and includes sea turtle nesting grounds).

Morning treats are delivered to rooms through secret cubby holes. That’s pretty irresistible. I imagine enjoying warm brioches and flaky croissants while lounging in my pjs. The bold, bright tropical decor adds to the hotel’s glamour. It reminds me of Mondrian, the Dutch painter who rejected perceived reality and stripped form down to its most basic elements. Esencia’s palette is a refreshing change from most Mexican resorts which rely heavily on traditional colors and rustic furnishings.

The yoga loft is insta-perfect, with ecru, crocheted hammocks hanging below an open-air wooden platform. My savasana would surely last hours, which would put me at risk of missing afternoon cocktails. I’d best leave the chaturangas to Daniel.

PC: Hotel Esencia

USP (Unique Selling Point):

Esencia’s two-story, Rooftop Wellness Suite is the ultimate in modern Mayan jungle luxury. With a full-sized pool, multiple terraces, and a private fitness studio (including a Peloton bike and The Mirror), I see no compelling reason to leave it. As an aside, I see no compelling reason for a private fitness studio, either. I’m on holiday. I’ll punish myself with The Mirror when I get home, thank you.

This premiere suite acts as a ‘hotel within a hotel’ at this sweeping 50-acre estate. So, if you’d like to go on a resort holiday without having to see another soul, Hotel Esencia is the place for you. It’s most definitely the place for me.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Note: August 26, 2022. As I place the finishing touches on this post, Forbes Travel Guide has just announced today that Hotel Esencia earned its coveted five-star award for 2022. Well deserved Esencia, but now I’ll never be able to get a reservation. (See how I’m able to be both topical and tropical at the same time here?)

Four other winners:

Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur, California

Hacienda AltaGracia, Costa Rica

San Domenico Palace, Taormina, Italy

One&Only Moonlight Basin, Montana (Opening 2024)

Why did these make the list?

Each of these hotels and brands is not only top of its class in terms of service and accommodations but also takes style and artistry to innovative levels.

Swoon over the organic architecture and natural coastal beauty at Post Ranch Inn. Spot the elusive Quetzal in Costa Rica at Hacienda AltaGracia. Prepare to get lost in the Montana wilderness, at One&Only’s first US-based resort. The Four Seasons’ San Domenico Palace in Italy is a restored 14th-century convent with views of Mount Etna. Enough said.

Click the links at your own risk. Yes, they are expensive. Whoever said, ‘you can’t take it with you,’ is my soul mate.

PC: Islas Secas

My Travel Wish List: 4 / Lodges and Retreats

Wish List Winner: Islas Secas, Panama

I’m reluctant to write about Islas Secas. I don’t want you to know about it. Yes, that’s how selfish I am. That I’d rather not write about a hot, new destination for fear that you get there before I do is indefensible.

I’d like to go to Panama before every else has it on their radar. Ten years ago we told friends we were headed to Costa Rica. We may as well have said we were taking the kids to North Korea on a beach holiday. Look at Costa Rica now—the epicenter of spring break family travel.

As is evident by its name, Islas Secas is an island. An archipelago, to be more clear, comprised of 14 volcanic islands off the Pacific coast of the country. With iconographic names like Isla Barracuda, Isla Iguana, and Isla Coco, I imagine days snorkeling beside shiny, snake-like fish, photographing colorful reptiles, and drinking from oversized coconuts. Over-caffeinated yet again, my imagination runs wild.

Panamanian design is everywhere; light, breezy tactile fabrics, plantation shutters, and thatched rooftops. The four-bedroom Casita Grande looks especially captivating. I daydream about a milestone birthday there. It could be mine, a friend’s, or a neighbor’s. I’m not going to be picky.

PC: Islas Secas

USP:

The website affirms Islas Secas’ devotion to sustainable and nature-driven tourism. It tempts me with stats like 750 species of fish, 80 species of birds, and humpback whale-watching.

When I read the website, I almost can’t bear it. I bounce again, the universal sign for overexcitement.

I think you should go. And I think you should take me with you.

Four other winners:

Taylor River Lodge, Colorado

Bishop’s Lodge, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Kachi Lodge, Bolivia

Mashpi Lodge, Ecuador

Why did these make the list?

It’s a secret to no one who keeps up with luxury and adventure retreats that these four make the list. Known for tailor-made, one-of-a-kind experiences, Eleven Experience owns 13 remote properties around the world. Its Colorado-based Taylor River Lodge was once a local fishing and tackle shop before it became an off-the-grid, eight-cabin river retreat.

Auberge-owned Bishop’s Lodge in Santa Fe embraces the rich mountain colors of New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo range. Each room, with woven Navajo rugs and textiles, is a sanctuary unto its own.

Kachi or Mashpi? Both/and, please. This duo of South American lodges is equally breathtaking. Mashpi Lodge is set deep in the Chocó-Andean Cloud Forest. No, I didn’t make that up. Conversely, Kachi Lodge sits at the foot of the Tunupa Volcano, and atop Bolivia’s famed Uyuni Salt Flats. Cloud Forest or Salt Flat? How to choose? I’ll repeat. Both/and.

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PC: Pikaia Lodge

My Travel Wish List: 3 / Travel Experiences

Wish List Winner: Explore the Galápagos Islands via Pikaia Lodge

I must have a thing for archipelagos because here I am adding yet another to my list. Archipelagos are obviously all the rage.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

One thousand kilometers off of the Ecuadorian coast lies 19 islands of marine wonders—the Galápagos Islands. They are often referred to as a ‘unique living museum of evolution’. If that isn’t a tantalizing travel soundbite, I don’t know what is.

That the Galápagos Islands’ wildlife lacks natural predators is pretty well-known. This is partly due to the islands’ volcanic origin and extreme remoteness. I’d love to swim with sea lions, dolphins, and giant tortoises. I want to admire exotic birds and uncover species that don’t exist anywhere else in the world. The animals are approachable and tame (and I hear they love the camera). Sign me up.

USP:

Pikaia Lodge’s prime access to this extraordinary part of the world is why it pairs so organically with a Galápagos Island adventure. Pikaia Lodge is a luxury eco-adventure property with cutting-edge architecture and a strong environmentally conscious mindset. Its 14 rooms sit 450 meters above sea level on the edge of an extinct volcano. I’ve always wanted to stay on the edge of an extinct volcano, (rather than an active one), naturally.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

Pikaia Lodge is entirely carbon-neutral and is made up of stone, lava, glass, and steel. This striking architectural combination doesn’t attempt to steal the limelight from the landscape. It looms high over Santa Cruz Island as if it too is leisurely observing the wonders of the Galápagos.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

Four other winners:

Hike Acadia National Park, Maine

Vineyard stay in Bordeaux

Photography Safari in Namibia

Polar Expedition to Antarctica

Why did these make the list?

Hiking at Acadia National Park complements my passion for photographing panoramic views. A vineyard stay in Bordeaux embraces my obsession with cabernets, berets, and soufflés. (I don’t actually like berets, but I’ll do anything for cadence). My love of wildlife would be taken to extremes in Antarctica and Africa.

Narrowing down my top five travel experiences is a challenge. Each time I think I have a final list, another idea emerges. It’s like whack-a-mole in my head. That these five experiences align with my favorite activities is no surprise. What is a surprise is how well these wish lists are acting as birthday, anniversary, and Christmas gift lists, too! I’m nothing if not efficient.

PC: Dylan Shaw, Unsplash

My Travel Wish List: 2 / Countries

Wish List Winner: The Faroe Islands

Do you know where the Faroe Islands are? Despite my current obsession with this self-governing nation, I didn’t know exactly where they were either. I’ve since learned this archipelago of 18 mountainous islands (yes, another archipelago!) is located halfway between Scotland and Iceland and is named after sheep. I love sheep! Now, I want to go there more than ever.

PC: Marc Zimmer, Unsplash

Turf-roofed houses are nurtured by the year-round rainy climate. Even your year-round rain isn’t enough to deter me, Faroe Islands. And I hate getting wet.

PC: Lynn Fae, Unsplash

The hamlets of the Faroe Islands are the stuff of fairy tales. Frodo would feel at home in the shire-like countryside. Lakes, lagoons, and lighthouses are all virtually untouched by tourism. At least for the moment. That I’d like to get there before everyone else reinforces just how selfish I am.

Four other winners:

Panama

Bolivia

Ecuador

Namibia

Why did these make the list?

If you’ve read this far, it’s clear why these countries round out this travel wish list. They each have resorts, hotels, retreats, or experiences I would love to visit or do one day. They are also countries not quite on the mainstream travel radar.

PC: Beinta á Torskilsheyggi

My Travel Wish List: 1 / Culinary Adventures

Wish List Winner: Koks, The Faroe Islands

What a coincidence! If you believe in coincidences, that is. The restaurant at the top of my culinary wish list is located at the top of my country wish list—the Faroe Islands. A visit there would be a travel wish list twofer. I wonder if I’ve lost Daniel by now?

Chef Poul Andrias Ziska is the culinary creator-in-chief behind Koks (which since my morning at Black Coffee, I learn has been temporarily relocated to Greenland). That’s ok, I’m in no rush. That he uses mainly Faroese ingredients in his Michelin-starred dishes compels me to open up another tab and find out exactly what those ingredients are.

PC: Claes Bech-Poulsen

Being a set of islands should be a significant clue. However, beyond fish and seafood, the Faroese diet consists of organic lamb, fermented meat, and root vegetables like kohlrabi, turnips, and rhubarb. I wonder if the two ladies at Black Coffee are aware of this?

Koks is known as the ‘world’s most remote foodie destination.’ Its imaginative dishes follow the seasons and its architecture follows the traditional Nordic style. I will follow Koks anywhere, even to Greenland, if I have to.

Left, PC: Claes Bech-Poulsen Right, PC: Beinta á Torskilsheyggi

Four other winners:

Single Thread, Healdsburg, California

The Three Chimneys, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Restaurant La Chassagnette, Provence, France

été, Tokyo

Why did these make the list?

Dine in the gardens of Arles-based, Michelin-starred La Chassagnette or at farm-inspired micro-seasonal Single Thread in Healdsburg, California. Their spectacular settings match their equally spectacular culinary offerings.

With no sign and one table, Restaurant été, run by female chef Natsuko Shoji, is one of the most coveted reservations in Tokyo. Her French-Japanese-inspired menu is considered flawless, as is her sense of style and design.

Finally, Three Chimneys marks yet another impossible-to-reach-but-worth-the-effort restaurant. It’s hidden on the dramatic shores of Loch Dunvegan on the Isle of Skye. The Nordic-Scottish epicurean experience can only be topped with a night’s stay at adjoining House-Over-By. Those Scots are nothing if not literal.

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Aspiration v. inspiration

On the surface, these lists seem superficial. ‘I want to go here. Eat there. Do this.’ I dig deeper into the ‘why’ and notice it’s the experiences I crave. Would I like those experiences to be in or near lovely places, at nice hotels, and with extraordinary food? Why, yes I would

There are many ways to experience cultures, countries, and food. Less expensive ways and more authentic ways, no doubt. This is my wish list so I get to choose the way I want to explore the world. You get to choose yours.

My lists are both aspirational and inspirational. Reading about them makes me happy. Sharing them with you makes me happier (earlier selfishness aside). Going to them would make me ecstatic.

Go big or stay home

My daily life in Washington DC revolves around a one-mile radius. I go to Black Coffee for golden lattes, Millie’s for overpriced salads, CVS to channel inner patience, and Battery Kemble Park to walk my labs. I like my routine, it centers me.

Sometimes inspiration strikes, whether by eavesdropping at Safeway or reading the Sunday Style section of the New York Times. I write lists. Sometimes those lists lead to trips where I leave my DC bubble and discover a far-flung corner of the globe. Sometimes they gather dust up there on the cloud.

But, the days I get Wordle-in-two? Watch out world, anything can happen.

Click here. Be the first to know where I’m going next.

Author’s Note: I am grateful to the hotels, resorts, restaurants, and lodges who kindly gave me high-res photos for use in this post. I’m also using Unsplash for the first time, and praise the photographers who are giving away their gorgeous photos for free. Typically, I only feature my own photos. But alas, if I had my own pictures of these stunning places, they wouldn’t be on my wish list.

If you ever want to get in touch, ask a question, or discuss a way to partner, please email me at [email protected].

April 26, 2022
The Green O Strikes Gold. Montana’s Newest Luxury Retreat.
The green o is Montana’s answer to the latest travel trend: luxury-minded adventure escapes. A place that strikes the right balance of indulgence and adventure, and includes culinary experiences and tasting menus worth traveling for. Follow me to the green o, and read about the newest adults-only luxury retreat in the Montana wilderness.

“Are you sure the Sunset Trail goes through this field?” I ask my husband, warily.

“Trust me”, he replies, unhinging the creaky, metal gate, and ignoring the wooden sign marked: “DO NOT ENTER.” I bite my tongue, then follow.

We’ve been at the green o, Montana’s newest luxury adventure property, for all of two hours. My ‘adventure mindset’ is not yet fully formed. But here I am mountain biking toward a herd of hairy bison. Blind faith semi-firmly placed in my husband’s overly confident orienteering abilities.

Does anyone see the bright red flags waving in the distance? Unfortunately, I don’t.

Survival Skills at the green o, Montana

Daniel speeds past the bison with the grace of Chris Froome in the early stages of the Tour de France. I bumble along, struggling to find my balance. My shoes are too tight and my seat is too high. I can’t quite figure out the gears. I’m already parched.

I stop to take a photo—a thin disguise to catch my breath.

The bison look at me. One snorts loudly, breaking the silence of the pasture. Others chime in. Their collective snorting sounds threatening. They shake their massive wooly heads in utter disbelief, unleashing a flurry of flies.

“City folk”, they must be musing in their pea-sized brains, “Should we give them a free pass just this once?”

I feel judged. And rightly so. Daniel is miles ahead. I’m within 10 feet of these massive beasts and suddenly feel like a mid-morning snack. Daniel contends bison eat grass, not humans. But don’t grizzlies eat fish? Daniel has no comment, naturally.

Take deep breaths, I tell myself. Then channel my inner Soul Cycle warrior and power past them.

Spoiler alert, I survive.

The green o: Fields of Gold and Silver Linings

If the pasture where the Sunset Trail may or may not have cut through was any less captivating, I would have put down my size six sneaker in toddler-like defiance. But I see butter-yellow grasses glow against distant mountains. The bison, while terrifying, dot the field in wispy, chocolate-brown brush strokes.

The scene has all the makings of the 20th-century realist paintings I studied in Art History. A canvas imbued with the mysteriousness of Americana. Fields of gold and weathered farmhouses. An extraordinary sight for my city-centric eyes, and one of many Wyeth-inspired moments I discover at the green o.

So yes, I live to tell the tale. In the way of silver linings, I have more than a few bison portraits to show for it. And no permanent scars. Risk, meet reward.

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Welcome to The Green O

The green o (intentionally lowercase to exude an approachable, casual vibe) is an adults-only property located in the Blackfoot River Valley, in Greenough, Montana. It has 12-stand alone accommodations, each called a ‘haus’. If you are any good at math, you will quickly calculate that the green o has a max capacity of 24 guests.

Each haus accommodation at the green o is made from stunning combinations of wood, glass, and other stylized design elements. The hauses are scattered so haphazardly throughout the pine-laden property that they may well have sprung up from the earth itself. The green o refers to the hauses as romantic ‘glamping’ accommodations. But with eco-kitchens, outdoor hot tubs, and wood-burning fireplaces, they go well beyond any glamorous camping I’ve experienced.

The green o vs Paws Up

Hundreds of pines stand at attention in this small gated enclave on the southern edge of Paws Up near the scenic Blackfoot River. Paws Up Ranch is the sister property of the green o—a family-friendly resort established in 1915 by Paul Greenough. His property encompasses a whopping 37,000 acres of land. Well played, Paul.

Back in the early 1900s, Mr. Greenough, for whom the town and ranch are named, painted his flock of sheep with a large green “O”. A simple mark that was certainly ahead of its time from a corporate branding perspective. Does Oprah know about this? Hence the name of this Montana woodland escape—the green o. A tribute to the founder, rancher, and all-around man about town. Literally.

The relationship between the family-friendly Paws Up and the adults-only green o is decidedly one-sided. Guests of the green o are welcome to use any facilities at Paws Up. But guests of Paws Up are unable to access the restaurant’s tasting menu and common spaces of the green o. This lop-sided relationship adds an air of exclusivity for the 24 oh-so-lucky green o guests.

Finding Gold at the green o

While green is undoubtedly the signature color of the property, I can say without fear of my kids’ ridicule, that I found gold. Well, perhaps some fear. That does sound kind of corny.

I’ll attempt to exhaust the limits of the metaphor. Yellow tamaracks burst brightly from a forest of otherwise green firs, creating a ripple of gold. They shed their short needles so that the paths around the property appear to be paved in gold. A large, gooey golden honeycomb sits atop the bar in the main restaurant ready to be drizzled on my morning granola. Metaphor officially exhausted.

Earning Dinner at the green o

Luxury adventure retreats are popping up around the country at lightning speed. The appeal is clear. Travelers are looking for places that provide interesting combinations of active excursions, indulgence, and unique culinary experiences.

Hotel trends show heightened popularity in places where guests feel they have ‘earned’ that Michelin-worthy meal, multi-course tasting menu, and one-of-a-kind styled lodgings. Or, maybe that’s just me?

‘Earned’ could mean climbing a mountain. Or, taking on the green o’s mile-long Grizzlyman Trail. In our case, earned means outrunning simple-minded wild beasts. It’s a reward to mark a day we pushed beyond our comfort zones.

The green o takes it further by adding on unusual experiences, like an ATV ride to a remote ghost town or fly fishing in the Blackfoot River. A day-long Frontiersman Ride on horseback or participating in an authentic cattle drive. It’s all too easy to see the allure of adventure-inspired trips. Especially ones in remote wilderness locales like Montana.

At the Green O, It’s all about me us you

My husband and I come to the green o to create adventures based on our vacation style. Our trip doesn’t look like anyone else’s. I mean that literally and factually. Since our return, I’ve been stalking the green o and its guest posts on Instagram. Not one reel, story, or little square tile replicates our trip. Yet, they all look equally spectacular.

This is the beauty of the green o—that we can interpret the activities and offerings to reflect our own personal brand of adventure. Like on our first bike ride when Daniel chose to interpret the ‘DO NOT ENTER’ sign differently than me. Needless to say, we decide upon a few other activities with slimmer chances of being trampled to death.

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Choose our own adventure

Montana is a new state for both of us. We’d like to get up close and personal with the natural beauty for which it’s so well known. We opt for a six-mile hike through the ominously named Lubrecht Experimental Forest, which we access from a path behind our Tree Haus. I dismiss the irrational fear of being abducted and experimented on by a mad scientist named Lubrecht.

But trails named Grizzlyman, Hunter’s Point, and Anaconda are surely trying to shake my confidence level, which is medium at best. Dictated in part by past hiking adventures gone awry (Exhibit A: Wyoming) and (Exhibit B: England).

Thankfully mountain lions hadn’t been spotted recently around the green o. We are told that the bears are probably hibernating by now. That’s mildly reassuring, I think.

On another day we take a 12-mile bike ride through everchanging scenic terrain. Over burbling streams, and through grassy pastures with snow-covered mountains in the distance. We head up to a rocky lookout and admire the Blackfoot River below. It’s one of my favorite ways to spend a day.

I get to burn hundreds of calories in order to ‘earn’ the Wagyu smash burger waiting for me at the Social Haus. All the while admiring stellar views.

The Green Haus

Our haus, in the middle of the trees

The green o has four different haus accommodation types: the Round Haus, the Tree Haus, the Light Haus, and the Green Haus. All are within striking distance of the Social Haus—the green o’s main (and only) restaurant, which has a different tasting menu each evening.

The Tree Haus

I have my heart firmly set on the Tree Haus. The idea of sleeping among the stars in the wilderness must have awakened some part of my inner child. (My parents are surely wondering whose inner child I am referring to.) I hated camping as a kid and still do.

Maybe I was just waiting for the right kind of Tree Haus? Sleeping 23 feet in the air and seeing the stars blinking brightly between the tall pine silhouettes is ethereal. Even if it is from the second floor of our glass-enclosed heated Tree Haus.

The Round Haus

And, even if the bedsheets are so insanely cushy and cozy that we buy them the moment we arrive home. And that we can order on-demand wood-fired pizzas to that very same bed. This is my kind of camping.

Views Win at the green o

The design of our Tree Haus is inspired. A small glass entryway pops from the ground like a submarine’s periscope and invites us to shed our boots and coats. A floating spiral staircase snakes upwards toward the first-floor landing.

The drama is worth the climb—360-degree views of pine forests from floor-to-ceiling windows.

I stop to take in the space and first notice the modern wood-burning stove neatly tucked in the corner. There is an oversized chair beside it, and I make a mental note to curl up in it with my new Amor Towles novel as soon as possible.

In the freezer, I discover two homemade ice cream sandwiches just waiting for the midnight munchies to surface.
Pine-filled views trump all, which is likely why the green o gave us so many places to admire them. A hanging outdoor chair sways in the breeze on the wraparound outdoor deck. The bedroom balcony is the ideal spot to spy deer traversing the landscape. Even the view from the bathtub windows maximizes the woodland panorama.

The only other place for guests to mingle indoors at the green o is the Social Haus. That is perfectly fine with me, as the only thing that will get me to leave a fabulous room is a fabulous meal.

Getting Social

I’m not a ‘save the best for last’ type of person. I like the best first. So why am I writing about our culinary experience at the green o last?

The answer is simple but wordy.

If the green o had no hikes, no bikes, and no ATVs. No Tree Hauses, Round Hauses, or Green Hauses. If the woodlands were devoid of mountain lions, deer, and hibernating bears. If there were no golden tamaracks, golden pastures, or golden paths of golden needles. I would still go to the green o—for the food.

The Social Haus

I am a self-appointed foodie and travel for food the way others travel for a Broadway show or a music festival. I expect the food at the green o to be spectacular. Incredibly, I get much more than I expect.

Every meal at the green o is included in the price of the room. Craft cocktails and (most) wines are included as well. The culinary talents of Chef Brandon Cunningham are almost impossible for me to describe. But I will try.

3 dinners x 7 courses = 21 courses

The highlight of each evening, without a doubt, is the inventive 7-course tasting menu prepared by Chef Brandon and his faithful team. Seven unique courses each night for our three nights without a single course overlapping. Factor in that every other guest will also not overlap a course during their stay and you can see why this is a Mensa puzzle I’ll never solve.

The Social Haus has a convivial bar where guests can have dinner while watching the chef and his team create culinary magic. I order the Greenough Gimlet, with local Spotted Bear Gin, yuzu, and rosemary.

Daniel has Sudden Smoke, which requires the bartender to light a piece of wood on fire then place the glass upside down to absorb the smoke. It is just this kind of attention to alcoholic detail that makes the cocktail experience another green o adventure.

A dark green leather banquette semi-circles around a large glass-enclosed fire. Daniel and I sit facing it, as do all the guests, which creates an informal dinner party ambiance. Conversation flows, as do healthy pours of wine.

Seeing is believing, at the green o

The execution of Chef Brandon’s culinary creations is better seen than told. And better eaten than seen. One artfully designed course follows another. Like his version of Chinese take-out, complete with the ubiquitous cardboard box and chopsticks. Or, a modernized ham and cheese sandwich.

Meals are prepared with absolute intention and often with the help of tweezers. No detail is overlooked, whether that be the leanest slice of hamachi, the flourish of a matsutake mushroom, or a flowering spiral of avocado upon sourdough toast.

Each night I swear I couldn’t possibly handle another seven courses. But I do. I only wish I could stay longer. If for no other reason than to see if Chef Brandon ever slips up and serves the same course twice.

Lunches and breakfasts are as inventive and mouth-watering. Fried chicken and waffles with golden raisin chutney and coconut syrup; chamomile yogurt panna cotta with fresh berries, honeycomb, and pistachio; and the famous Wagyu smash burger. With its secret sauce, griddled onions, and pepper jack cheese, Daniel says it is the best burger he’s had. Ever.

Add in service with a Midas touch (notice how I continue to flog the metaphor?) and it’s obvious why the food experience at the green o is another star among stars.

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Your green o

What will your green o experience look like? Will you opt for a spa treatment or a leisurely hike? An ATV ride or a horseback ride? Mountain biking or fly fishing? Perhaps a long hot bath followed by a fire and a good book? The combinations are as high-adrenaline or as low-key as you’d like.

It’s worth mentioning a few other perks included in the room rate, which may seem high—until you have your first tasting menu Then you will realize that you are winning, as every single meal is included and is better than the last. Guests are welcome to dine at the restaurant at Paws Up, which I’m sure is lovely, but don’t. There is no reason to leave the Social Haus. Trust me.

The green o includes transportation to and from the airport in a hybrid Lexus. That same Lexus (or one from the on-site fleet) is at our disposal should we want to go off-property. Lastly, we are given a $500 voucher that we can use towards anything not included in the room rate. We used ours for a special bottle from the reserve wine list and a massage.

Gold abounds at the green o, no matter where you look, and no matter what season. I found gold everywhere, but none more noticeably than in the service, the food, and the bucolic setting. The only thing missing from our trip to the green o was more time.

It’s a sign

On our last afternoon, we drive along the road where we started our first bike ride. Just past the spot where the Sunset Trail may or may not have been. About 50 yards away we see a different sign, this one is a tad more informative: ‘DO NOT ENTER ENCLOSURE. THESE ANIMALS ARE DANGEROUS’.

I don’t gloat. But I want to.

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If you ever want to get in touch, ask a question, or discuss a way to partner, please email me at [email protected].
December 7, 2021
The best ways to explore Croatia. Land and sea.

Croatia is one of the most alluring countries in Europe. I say that with conviction, having visited three times in the past decade. Why is Croatia’s magnetic pull so strong? It is the rich cultural roots, devastatingly beautiful scenery, and welcoming people, for a start. Read on to discover two of the best ways to explore Croatia.

“Land or sea, which is better?”, I’ve often been asked since returning from Croatia last month. Why don’t we have a friendly competition? Allow me to introduce the players.

The Land

The Istrian peninsula, in the northwestern corner of Croatia, is shared by three countries: Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy. While Croatia possesses the largest part of this heart-shaped land mass, Italian and Slovenian influences are strong. Italy is so easily accessible, that the seaside town of Rovinj offers day trips to Venice.

Istria’s landscape is carpeted in trellised vineyards and gnarled olive trees. Clusters of flowering oleander hug crumbling rock walls in colors that might inspire Nars’ next shade of lip gloss.

The hilltop village of Motovun has dense, oak forests filled with prized truffles. In Pula, a 1st century AD Roman amphitheater is the historic centerpiece of the city. Pula Arena now welcomes visitors, rather than gladiators.

Istria, a treasure trove of riches.

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Villa Barbara, in the center of Istria’s heart, is where we spent our week on land. The villa offered manageable drives to picturesque villages and local restaurants, while also providing on-property entertainment.

The Sea

With over 1200 islands, the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia has no trouble exceeding expectations. The islands of Croatia surrounding Dubrovnik are so tempting, and so sought-after, that we decided to seek adventures farther afield.

In both 2015 and 2018, we chartered a gulet, and navigated popular tourist routes. Either starting in Dubrovnik or Split, and visiting the islands of Hvar, Korčula, Brač, Mljet, and Vis, along the way. This summer, we started our journey in historic Šibenik, where the river Krka flows gently into the Adriatic Sea.

A gulet is a traditional wooden sailing vessel, usually with two or three masts. Many gulets have been repurposed as private charters to take visitors around the Mediterranean in comfort and luxury. For anyone raising an eyebrow in doubt, this is not your grandmother’s Celebrity cruise.

Accommodations in Croatia: Land

Set on nearly six acres, Villa Barbara has everything a large family gathering could want. Tennis and basketball courts, and a golf range, for the most active among us. Ping pong, foosball, billiards, and bicycles, for the slightly less active. A pool, sun loungers, and hot tub, for the essentially inactive (ummm, me).

Poolside, I would watch swallows dip into the water for a sneaky sip. I noticed the billowy clouds which would later create dramatic sunsets. The property is surrounded by stone walls that are edged with hydrangeas exploding in pink. The air is heavily scented with lavender and rosemary.

Villa Barbara is modern, with modern amenities, and easily accommodated our group of 13. It has six bedrooms, seven bathrooms, and an enormous open-plan living space.

Space—a non-negotiable requirement when traveling with family. Floor-to-ceiling windows open to the pool, which made indoor and outdoor life blur together.

Accommodations in Croatia: Sea

If Villa Barbara struck the utopian combination of indoor and outdoor living, the gulet Perla is full-tilt outdoor life. 99% of our waking hours were enjoyed on deck in the Croatian summer sun.

Roughly 100ft in length, the Perla has seven cabins (each with an en-suite bathroom). Finding that all-important personal space is hardly an issue. There are soft lounge cushions on the deck towards the bow, and a wide, shaded daybed, at the stern.

In between, are several other areas to (quite, literally) check out. Some are just right for coffee, others for late-afternoon cocktails. There is a spot at the very tip of the bow to recreate that famous Titanic moment. (Not the one with the troublesome iceberg).

Our days at sea took on a rhythmic flow—a natural migration from the stern to the bow. Around 8am, we’d emerge from below deck for breakfast, then flop onto the daybed as the crew pulled up anchor. Some of us would begin to head towards the sun loungers, with books, coffee, and SPF 50, in hand.

A siesta would beckon around 2pm, induced by a hearty lunch and a few bottles of white wine. By late afternoon, we would settle towards the bow, ready to anchor and let the afternoon activities begin.

The sea has its own agenda. Glassy, flat, and still in the morning, as if it too, had trouble waking up. Breezes would gather, and by midday, the sea is a hive of activity. Naturally, easing the passage for sailboats and schooners alike. Stillness returns in the late afternoon—the color of the water mirroring the colors in the sky.

A gulet is a playground on the sea. I didn’t have to be ten years old to enjoy jumping from the deck into the gentle, turquoise waters. (However, I do think there should be an age limit on backflips).

The Perla has more toys than necessary, as the sea itself provides endless entertainment. Nevertheless, we’d make constant use of the kayak, two stand-up paddle boards, waterskis, wake board, and donut. Snorkeling equipment, and colorful noodles, are ready and waiting for the anchor to drop.

Exploring Croatia: Land

It is always hard to leave the grounds of a great villa, and many of us didn’t. Those of us interested in touring the countryside and seaside ports of Istria took small trips to satiate our curiosity. (aka: bribing kids with gelato to join).

Rovinj is undoubtedly the star of Istria’s coast. A fishing port with narrow, cobbled pedestrian-only streets to explore. A marina filled with super yachts to ogle over. A Michelin-starred restaurant at which to dine, and a storybook old town to over-photograph.

Pealing church bells would mark the hour. At noon, Rovinj is at the height of activity (and heat) which is an excellent time to leave. I took one last look upwards at the looming church tower punctuating the cloudless sky.

For a moment I wished I was still at the top of the town, admiring the Basilica of St Euphemia’s, and stealing licks from my niece’s gelato. But, the villa pool called, as did lunch, and a glass of chilled rosé.

There was far more to see in Istria than time would allow. Like, medieval Motovun which hovers at 900 feet above sea level. Also, the settlement of Hum, is known for being Croatia’s smallest village, with a population of 30.

Exploring Croatia: Sea

On land, we explored Croatia by car, finding villages with the help of Google maps and Waze. Karlo, Perla’s expert captain, and his skilled crew steered us directly to islands in the Adriatic Sea. It is the ultimate way to get a full sense of the coast. However, it’s not the ultimate way to burn calories. Note to self: turn off the step counter app at embarkation.

Life at sea is inherently nomadic. A constant and mesmerizing world streaming like BBC’s Blue Planet docu-series. Every so often, the barren landscape is interrupted by the distinct terracotta roof tiles of a village. On a lucky day, we might spot a pod of dolphins, or a lone tuna thrashing through the water’s surface.

The beauty of visiting some of Croatia’s lesser-known islands is the lack of tourist traps, cruise ships, and tatty souvenir shops. Instead, insert gelato shops, lined with locals still dripping in wet bathing suits. Insert kids selling shells, rather than lemonade, along the waterfront.

Croatia’s best places to visit; a shortlist

Zlarin: I am inclined to deny the existence of Zlarin, for fear that tourists will overrun it. Fishing boats, smaller than most American SUVs, bob gently in the marina, their Yamaha engines pulled up for the day.

Mustard yellow paint peels from Zlarin’s humble church tower. Kids’ bike bells ding as they race past their grandfathers playing bocce in the town square. A fairytale existence, playing out in real-time, against a dramatic sunset on this small island. Zlarin—my favorite Croatian island.

Murter: Murter doesn’t get the airtime of Korčula or Brač, but this island is as scenic as any other. And, without the heaving crowds. Its main town is confusingly also called Murter. At dusk, we strolled leisurely along the harbor, noticing kids playing with old-school toys, rather than new-age gadgets.

I could hear music escaping from windows embellished by sea foam-colored shutters. Restaurant patios began to fill up with salty, sandy diners, just in from a day at the beach. Murter—my favorite Croatian island.

Primošten: Cruising into the harbor of Primošten just might be my favorite moment of the trip. The sun was just beginning to set behind this medieval fishing village and created a fiery orange aura around it. We were all enchanted, nearly silent, as the sun dipped further and cast the island into a black silhouette.

While I could have watched the island from the boat all night, the town beckoned. In August, Primošten has a buzzy summer holiday vibe, and restaurant tables pool into the streets. The sound of laughter, lapping waves, and clinking glasses fill the air.

Our group dispersed, some on the hunt for gelato, others for a pint of Guinness. Primošten—my favoite Croatian island.

Feasting in Croatia: Land

Understanding a place by its regional spices, local ingredients, and culinary traditions, is one of the more entertaining ways to explore a country. It would be somehow unfair of me to ignore Croatia’s viticultural landscape.

The wines produced in Croatia naturally accompany the food—and are a part of the country’s culinary history and soul. Croatia—consider me your humble student.

Some evenings, we hired a local chef on-site for dinner. On other nights we would cook for ourselves. We would form groups. For reasons that need no explanation, husbands, wives, and kids, from the same family were not grouped together.

Home cooking presented yet another interesting way to explore the Istrian culture. Supermarket culture, that is. Countless trips to Plodine (the Safeway of Croatia) ensued. We hunted unsuccessfully for mint and basil. We received frantic gestures from Croatian shoppers—our mysterious supermarket faux pas to be forever unknown.

Roasted suckling pig at the villa was a dinner highlight. Known in Croatian as Odojak na ranznju, it was not only delicious but a large form of entertainment. The kids watched it rotate for hours on the spit.

Meneghetti Wine Hotel and Winery, Bale, Croatia

A wine hotel? If I had known such a place existed, I would have visited Istria years ago. With an amphitheater of vines, centuries-old, stone buildings, a Relais & Chateaux restaurant, and a 15-suite hotel, Meneghetti is an oenophile’s paradise.

We decided to have a pre-lunch wine tasting. This is a wine hotel, after all. We lost ourselves in the light, pale, citrus, notes of Malvazija Istarska (Malvasia), among other varieties.

An hour later, we stumbled to our shaded spot at Oliveto. Light breezes ruffled the patio umbrellas. Waiters moved effortlessly from table to table. They delivered beautifully prepared entrées, like pasta with shaved summer truffles, veal Osso Bucco, and bottles of Meneghetti wine.

We were overdue for a long, boozy, lunch, and the al fresco patio at Oliveto beckoned us to linger.

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Hiša Franko, Kobarid, Slovenia

Would you drive three hours for a three-hour lunch? How about crossing an international border to get there? If it were served, would you try bear paw? It turns out there is very little I won’t do or try, when it comes to food. Especially when that food is created by one of the world’s top chefs, Ana Roš.

Our prix-fixe, 23-course lunch at Hiša Franko, (currently ranked the 38th best restaurant in the world, with two-Michelin stars), is worthy of a post of its own. Watch this space.

A dining experience like this requires a culinary leap of faith. I placed myself in Chef Ana’s skillful hands, and let go of any food perceptions I harbored.

Hiša Franko glows from the inside out. The farmhouse exterior has warm, salmon-colored walls, while the interior is painted a rich, tomato red. The red walls, and avant-garde lighting, highlight the eclectic artwork that adorns them. Flowers are in abundance, and the verdant green mountains are particularly rich against the blue sky.

Chef Ana describes her menu, called Reincarnation, as ‘curious, fun, and confusing’. She exceeds on all points in the most enticing ways. Ana’s food is as artistic and innovative as the paintings we sat beside, perhaps even more.

The corn beignet with fermented cottage cheese, smoked trout, and wild chives, was an unexpected standout, among many unexpected standouts. Tortilla with alpine mole, rowan berry oil, fermented beets, and roasted lamb, was another. But perhaps, nothing surprised us more than chestnut dumpling filled with bear paw, topped with a forest consommé.

My 17-year-old daughter asked if it was really a bear paw. It was a question the rest of us were too intimidated to ask. And indeed, it was. Wild brown bears overpopulate Slovenia, so bear hunting is allowed (and actually provides very tender meat.)

Hiša Franko: A journey for the most adventurous foodies.

Feasting in Croatia: Sea

Our days on the Perla would revolve around food. One perk of boat life is never having to worry about finding a dinner reservation for thirteen. Not to mention, overordering, underordering, or miscalculating the currency conversions.

Our talented chef, Boke, understood our dining style from the first day. That is not to be underestimated when you consider that he must cater to different nationalities, eating habits, food allergies, and tastes, every week.

Mornings would start with the smell of bacon (no one is allergic to bacon). A continental-style breakfast of yogurts, cereals, fresh-cut fruit, and eggs, would follow.

Lunch was served around 130pm, and might include a salad of local peppers with zesty onions, feta, and olives. Filets of local monkfish or other local fish would grace the table.

We devoured hearty bread that stood up to the Istrian olive oil we would slather it in. Boke would always surprise us with a simple dessert to top off the meal. By 230pm, I often lapsed into a food coma.

Dinner, typically served between 8-9pm, was my favorite meal. By then we had all showered off the day’s salt water and sun and were ready to reminisce about the day’s antics. Some nights we would have simply grilled meats, with salads, and vegetables.

Other dinners were fish-based, like Croatian Shark (dogfish), or swordfish. Each night, Boke would create a surprise dessert that satisfied those of us with a demanding sweet tooth (re: everyone).

Land or Sea, who wins?

One could argue neither wins, as it comes down to personal tastes. Both, however, gave me permission to slow down and to be pulled out of my daily routine. Even if only for a few weeks. Permission to relax, engage with my kids, play games, and get lost in thought. Isn’t that the point of a well-earned holiday with family we may not have seen in far too long?

I wonder where I draw my energy from. Is it the land, or the sea? Do I prefer a fixed, or a nomadic, life? Would I ever eat bear paw again? These are questions I am happy to keep pondering. Maybe, one more visit to Croatia will help.

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Author’s Note: I’ve cruised the islands of Croatia multiple times. And have formed a wonderful relationship with the owners of Adriatic Cruising, who own a fleet of four lovely gulets. If you have any interest in being introduced, please contact me. My email is: [email protected] and I will happily put you in touch.

Where will you find yourself next? Just click:

Tack Dubrovnik on to your Adriatic adventure and stay at, hidden-in-plain-sight, Villa Dubrovnik.

Montenegro is practically next door. Consider a stay at the 15th c. island village—Aman Sveti Stefan.

Prefer to sail in the Caribbean? The Windward Islands are calling.

September 9, 2021
Best. Day. Ever. Deplar Farm.

Where to stay in northern Iceland? Deplar Farm is the one /

In Iceland, there are more than 50 different words to describe snow.

In Iceland, the population is so small that there’s an app to make sure you don’t accidentally date your cousin.

In Iceland, they joke, “What do you do if you get lost in an Icelandic forest?” Answer: “Stand up.”

In Iceland, more than half the country believes in elves and trolls.

I am enamored with Iceland, in awe of Deplar Farm, and already wondering when I can go back.

I am tempted not to write this post. To leave Deplar Farm tucked far away in the Troll Peninsula of northern Iceland. Allow it to remain a well-kept secret. Two flights, including a sleepy four-hour layover at a regional airport, and a nearly two-hour road trip, will certainly keep less adventurous souls at bay.

With only 13 rooms, Deplar Farm houses a maximum of 32 guests. There are no other accommodations for miles. So when Deplar Farm is at full capacity, the whole of the Fljót Valley is capped for tourists.

Deplar Farm: At your service

At arrivals in Akureyri, Iceland’s 4th most populated town, we meet Emily, our point person for the next eight days. At Deplar Farm, each family, couple, or group, is assigned a ‘personal experience manager’ for their entire stay. It’s Eleven Experience’s technical term for guide, lifeline, cheerleader, Icelandic guru, and all-around nice person.

There’s nothing that can’t be requested of your experience manager. Whether or not it’s ever been done before is of little concern. “Daniel, do you want to go fat bike riding after the 10am hike and before your 6pm skeet shooting?” “Sure!”. “Do the kids want to head out into the countryside to play a game of laser tag after dinner?” “Without a doubt!”. ‘Jamie, how do you feel about throwing axes?” “Ummmm, is that a joke?” My husband calls Deplar Farm a summer camp for grown-ups.

Sheep in Iceland are allowed, by law, to roam the country. Unfortunately, they devour any newly planted trees. Hence, the joke. I guess Iceland is destined to be barren in favor of satiated grazing flocks.

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‘Up to eleven’: Eleven Experience raises the bar

Eleven Experience, the company behind Deplar Farm, has flipped the script on what luxury travel looks like today. A finely balanced combination of adventure plus understated elegance. The cross-section of high-end service and thoughtful details in a remote setting.

In Deplar Farm’s case, a converted sheep farm on the Troll Peninsula becomes our home away from home. Any fan of the film, Spinal Tap, will remember the reference to taking the volume up to eleven. Going above and beyond, setting the highest bar, is the Eleven Experience.

Farm Hotel, Boutique retreat, or Icelandic lodge?

Deplar Farm opened in 2016 and is set up, first and foremost, as a gorgeous home. Upon arriving, we pass by the cathedral-arched, glass-bookended dining room, with an oversized communal table. A welcoming spot where we will spend convivial farm-to-table meals meeting people from all corners of the globe.

A wall of artfully designed stuffed Icelandic birds would make any ornithological taxidermist swoon. Other lovely seating nooks are scattered around Deplar Farm to enjoy the views, nap, or read a book while drinking tea or coffee, which are always within arm’s length.

At Deplar Farm, the Views rule

Floor-to-ceiling windows are positioned throughout Deplar Farm so that you never need be without a look out towards the mountains, lake, sheep, or slow-moving fog that dramatically comes and goes each day.

There are multiple geothermal springs and an indoor/outdoor pool, my favorite one having a view of the setting sun (albeit at nearly midnight in the summer) and a cleverly designed swim-up bar.

A small, circular plunge pool is nestled into the grass should one want to shock the body after the warm springs. Our kids take turns seeing who can stay in the 34-degree water the longest. I sit nearby with a gin and tonic.

The Viking Spa at Deplar Farm

The small wooden door built into a grassy knoll outside is hobbit-like. Take care not to miss it. The ‘go green’ mentality is top of mind at Deplar Farm. The ever-green rooftop of the lodge is an example. Guests are given reusable water bottles for their stay rather than plastic. In-room fridges are always stocked with ice-cold replacements.

Deplar Farm’s Lucky 13

Each of the beautifully-appointed farmhouse-style rooms is a homespun treasure. Our room, the Grettir, is named after a famous Viking outlaw. It has a fireplace, personal sauna, stand-alone tub, outdoor veranda, and a mini-loft.

I melt into the oversized, puffy bedding each night from a combination of exhaustion, alcohol, and overeating. Our fridge is filled with beer, wine, sodas, and chilled, reusable, water bottles. A Nespresso machine and a wide variety of herbal teas dot the shelves.

Our kids stay in a bunk room on the lower level of Deplar Farm, adjacent to the communal family room. With a flat-screen TV, Apple TV, X-Box, shuffleboard, and an enormous U-shaped couch, the living room is as inviting as any room in our own home.

They spend lazy afternoon hours rolling around on the furniture as if they live here, I think they wish they did. They then roll right into their bunk room to await tomorrow’s adventures.

Deplar Farm’s Family vibe

The strong family vibe among the staff, experience managers, and guides, who I’m told outnumber the guests by 2:1, is tangible. We often find our favorite bartender, Dan, playing ping pong with our son in the game room.

Food and Wine. More Food, and More Wine.

Ivan, the sommelier/host extraordinaire, greets the dining table each night with a cheeky grin and a story about the food and wine we are about to enjoy. Having Garðar Garðarsson, Iceland’s Chef of the Year, create locally-sourced menus each night is my culinary dream come true. The son of vegetable farmers, he effortlessly creates masterpieces for the vegetarians at the table.

No one leaves the table hungry.

On the non-vegetarian front, Arctic Char fished from the neighboring lake, reindeer tartare with locally-foraged mushrooms, and Wolffish are a few highlights that grace the table.

One evening, a Fred Flintstone-sized leg of lamb, slashed off the bone, machete-style, is presented, en masse, on a large, rustic, wooden board. A Michelin-worthy presentation.

Deplar Farm Life

With over 20 hours of sunlight each day, there is never a rush to wake up early for activities. Breakfast is at the civilized time of 9am. Icelandic yogurt called skyr, as well as granola, freshly made loaves of bread, smoked or cured fish, and fresh fruit, were set up on the sideboard.

The lower floor of Deplar Farm is made with comfort and tranquility in mind. The floor-to-ceiling windows that define the upper floor are here as well. There is a yoga room, meditation room, gym, and massage room. There are also two sensory deprivation Isopod float tanks for those who want to relax in a less conventional way. A sauna, steam room, and indoor/outdoor geothermal pools round out the space.

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Colors of Iceland

The magic of Iceland is palpable. Rich, muted colors cover the vistas—layers of green hues overlapping one another. Icelandic horses, braying sheep, and the occasional house that looks painted into the hills.

The sun set around midnight, although in truth, it never looked fully set. Having natural light for so long each day makes for non-stop adventure followed by non-stop relaxation. I never feel that I am running out of time to do either one well.

Farm, hotel, or disco? Deplar Farm is all of the above.

Dinner is called for 8pm, but we generally don’t make it to the table until 9pm. It’s just too much fun hanging around the classic bar, playing ping pong and foosball. The professional band set-up and the sound system on a loft above the bar are an inspired amenity.

Eight days at Deplar Farm

At Deplar Farm, just about everything is included in the room price: food, drinks, off-property picnics, whale watching, yoga, skeet shooting, biking, hiking, and local village visits, are some highlights. All but a few excursions cost extra.

Having eight days at Deplar Farm gives us the advantage of being able to do almost everything summer on the Troll Peninsula of Northern Iceland had to offer. It gives our experience manager the chance to maximize our time and rearrange our activities as needed.

An adventure (or two) a day at Deplar Farm

There are endless adventures available at Deplar Farm and at nearly every level of fitness. Each excursion is more adrenaline-filled than the last. We spontaneously shout, ‘Best. Day. Ever.’ before we discover it is the Eleven Experience mantra.

White-water kayaking downriver towards Deplar Farm takes us past sheep, and Icelandic horses, and through the Twin Peaks rapids. It’s a snap for my husband and kids, who had earlier in the summer spent nine days rafting in the Grand Canyon. For me, it’s a perfect introduction to the sport.

Deplar Farm’s Ghost Farm

Another day has us canyoneering, a sport that, admittedly, I didn’t know existed until then. I equate canyoneering to hiking upstream through canyons and waterfalls. We sometimes need ropes to climb up and around the gushing falls. Emily and her co-guide for the day, Lillia, ensure no man is left behind or floats away with the rapids.

After two invigorating hours of pushing upriver, playing in secret waterfall caves, and generally behaving like children, I start to wonder how we are going to get back to the van.

Cue the Eleven Experience advantage. Our van is waiting for us after the last vigorous waterfall climb. We pile in and are whisked to Ghost Farm, an intimate cabin outpost a few miles from Deplar Farm.

There, a hot shower with fluffy towels awaits us, as well as a stocked bar, munchies, lit candles, and hot lunch on the stove. The table is set, and we feast on creamy vegetable curry, fresh salad, and warm bread. Afterward, our experience manager whips up a stack of homemade waffles with strawberries for dessert.

To the circus

It seems every day is going to be the best day ever, even on days we thought we knew what to expect. A boat ride to Drangey Island to visit the native puffins, for instance, I thought would be fun, but a tourist trap. When we board the Drangey Tour fishing boat, we see no other tourists, not a soul, aside from our tour leader, Helgi.

Helgi and his dad, Viggo, have run this family-owned tour operation for decades, and know the island like the back of their Viking-sized hands. 300,000 puffins: 6 humans. We are outnumbered.

The steep 600ft climb to the top of misty and mystic Drangey, the aftermath of a 700,000-year-old volcano, is a feat in itself. I struggle to balance my camera and my footing simultaneously.

We learn that a group of puffins is called a circus, and after observing them for four hours, we realize just what a fitting description that is. We also learn that a baby puffin is called a puffling and that when they fly, they look like flying potatoes with their distinctively round bodies. I’m happy to report the chef didn’t serve puffin as another locally sourced ingredient that evening.

Angling to stay at Deplar Farm

Fishing is a major draw for Deplar Farm, the area being renowned for its freshwater Arctic Char and Atlantic Salmon. Many come to Deplar Farm solely for the angling. They leave the property long before breakfast and return well after dinner. We are not those people. However, we think an afternoon of fishing could be a chill way to end our trip.

Again, the day held surprises. After one last visit to the gear shed, we don our orange caps, boots, and waders. Five minutes down the bumpy dirt track, we find ourselves at the Lake House. Like Ghost House, it’s owned by Deplar Farm and is dedicated to guest use.

Icelandic farmhouse chic, it could just as easily be photographed for Architectural Digest’s latest issue. Old, iconic yellow spines of National Geographic magazines sit on the windowsills among other vintage fishing objects.

Our experience manager had reserved Lake House for the day so that not only could we fish but then, afterward, cook what we caught and hang out in the geothermal springs. Again, it has a full bar, more munchies, and an already-prepared multi-course meal to add to our catch.

Goodbye Deplar Farm: Vertu blessaður

I am enamored with Iceland and in awe of Deplar Farm and the Troll Peninsula. I’m already wondering when I can go back. Until then, I will replay the adventures that are still razor-sharp in my mind. Best. Trip. Ever. Thank you, Deplar Farm.

Read more reviews of Deplar Farm here!

August 10, 2021
Searching for the peaceful life, at Amanzoe, Greece

Google Amanzoe. Go ahead, I’ll wait.

With 156,000 search results, Amanzoe is hardly a well-kept secret. What can I say or write that hasn’t already been said or written about this palatial property? How can I uncover beauty not instantly available by scrolling postage stamp-sized squares on the phone? Or, found in a quick Google search?

Let me give it a try. But perhaps first, a few things you will find in a quick Google search of Amanzoe, because essentials are still important, naturally.

Amanzoe, Greece: The Facts

Where is Amanzoe?

Amanzoe sits on the Peloponnese Peninsula, which is on the southern coast of the Greek mainland. It’s about a 2.5-hour drive from Athens and overlooks the Argolic Gulf and the Saronic Islands.

How do you get to Amanzoe?

There are three ways to get from Athens to Amanzoe: helicopter, Aman private car, and rental car. As you might imagine, this list is not only ordered from most to least expensive but from shortest to longest travel time.

How many rooms does Amanzoe have?

Amanzoe has 38 unique accommodations. A combination of one-bedroom pavilions, beach cabanas, and villas. The villas range in size from one bedroom to nine.

Nine-bedroom Villa 20 is the stuff of Aman legend. It has six swimming pools, multiple dining areas, four kitchens, and a Greek Taverna barbecue. Villa 20 also has a private spa, a private gym, sculpture gardens, and 360-degree panoramic sea views. Did I mention it is spread over a whopping six levels on four acres?

Oh, and a staff of 18.

Villa 20—an Aman within an Aman. How meta.

Amanzoe Facts aside

Six days isn’t enough time to become an expert on Amanzoe, or on anything, for that matter. Nonetheless, six days was enough time to learn a few noteworthy aspects of the property. As well as the people who keep it running seamlessly. Not to mention the Argolis peninsula, which is ever so gracefully situated between the Saronic and Argolic Gulfs.

Amanzoe, First impressions count

We arrived at Amanzoe at 4pm, after three flights, two layovers, and a scenic 30-minute helicopter ride. Any signs of fatigue evaporated the moment we walked through the monumental entrance. Greek in design, glossy, and white. The scent of jasmine filled the air. I turned my head left and noticed the tell-tale, star-shaped flowers, en masse.

Looking ahead, a wide, elongated reflecting pool drew my eye toward the centerpiece of Amanzoe. An enormous circular marble platform hovered above the Aegean Sea. When I use the term jaw-dropping, it is not metaphorically.

Olive trees with their chalky green leaves, and age-revealing gnarled trunks, dot the Amanzoe property. Some, are crooked and wrinkled (the elders), others skinny and lanky, (the teenagers), and all the life stages in between.

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Amanzoe, Sunset commentary

In May, the sun starts to set well after 8pm. That gave us plenty of time to settle into our villa and return to the platform for cocktails. Later, we would witness the nightly ritual of ‘sunset commentary’.

We overheard guests compare the sky to the one of the previous night—were the streaks more tangerine or pumpkin-colored? Those purples, would you say plum or eggplant?

I wondered if the staff ever tired of the setting sun, or the running commentary. I imagine they don’t since each night was similar in terms of sheer beauty but quite different in the details.

The shifting rays made the marble glow and forced deep shadows from the olive trees. Mother Nature must live here, I thought.

To add an unnecessary, yet ethereal touch of theater to the scene, a fire table was ignited each evening. A gesture of solidarity with the sun’s disappearance.

Amanzoe, Greece: Questions, Answered

Paul Linder is the master of ceremonies (aka General Manager) at Amanzoe, Greece. He floats breezily among the guests, speaking en français to the French, and en español to the Spanish. All the while looking like he stepped out of Italian Vogue. And ever-smiling—Paul is in his element.

“What don’t people know about Amanzoe?” I asked, “because it seems as if it’s all been said.” Paul paused. Then he told me that the area where Amanzoe resides, Porto Heli, is considered “the Hamptons of Greece”. That, I didn’t know.

Kings, former kings, celebrities, former celebrities, shipping, and business tycoons come here to not be seen. The entire peninsula has a distinguished air of privacy. Their mega-villas dot the landscape. And their bespoke super-yachts peek out from secluded coves and pop from the sapphire blue waters.

Paul went on to speak of the architectural elements that make up Amanzoe itself: stone, glass, marble, and wood. He spoke of the natural elements, the flora, and fauna, all native to Greece.

Each olive tree at Amanzoe had been artfully placed or replaced—some of which are up to 600 years old. Ed Tuttle, the creative genius behind Amanzoe, as well as over 30 other Aman properties, sadly died last year. But his work lives on, and what an awe-inspiring body of work it is.

If you build it

The palette of the Peloponnese Peninsula, and Amanzoe, is subtle shades of yellow, green, and purple. Wispy grasses, Mediterranean herbs, and slender emerald-colored cypress trees thrive. Bursts of fuchsia breakthrough in the form of a single flower. Or, a cluster of berries and a wave of bougainvillea. Lavender abounds.

Perhaps, the most interesting thing Paul remarked upon, was how the setting of Amanzoe was purposely built and designed. The grandiose main pavilion was created to represent the Acropolis. The villas below symbolize the city of Athens. How clever.

An intentional nod to ancient times. Amanzoe even replicated the famous theatre from nearby Epidaurus (in miniature, thankfully) on the property. Guests can reserve the amphitheater in advance, and dine privately among a hundred ambient lanterns. Mr. Tuttle, I stand in awe.

This intriguing mini-city design is certainly one way that Amanzoe stands out among its peers. Which prevents it from ever feeling crowded, even at capacity. If I had Villa 20, I would never leave it. In fact, I doubt I could even find my way out.

Amanzoe’s Villa 31

Villa 31 has the distinction of being the only one-bedroom villa at Amanzoe. There are many freestanding one-bedroom pavilions. However, Villa 31 is one-of-a-kind, perched on the far western tip of the property. It quietly overlooks the untamed landscape and the Aegean Sea.

Towards late afternoon, the mountains across the gulf start to lose detail and their sharp edges. The layers of blue melt into one another, creating a panoramic watercolor.

Mediterranean gardens surround the villa and the 25-meter infinity-edged pool. Bees feast on lavender. Amanzoe’s Villa 31 is made of stone and possesses a rustic, farmhouse feeling, unlike the other villas.

The interior is as serene and inviting as the exterior. Nearly every window and door open to the pool and sea.

A shaded terrace with cushy seating and a small reflecting pool form a separate structure from the villa. This is where our inventive chef, Stelios, created our in-villa meals.

Irina, our lovely dedicated host, helped organize everything from bicycles and golf carts to picnics, and afternoon cocktails. The staff is so warm, knowledgeable, and friendly. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t come home with a few new people to follow on Instagram.

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Plain Sky, at Amanzoe

The most unusual aspect of Villa 31 is its immersive art installation created by the acclaimed artist, James Turrell. The only one of Turrell’s permanent works found in the Mediterranean.

“Sky Plain” is a subterranean room accessed by a hidden staircase on the side of the villa. The perimeter of the 20 x 20-foot space is lined with built-in cushioned benches. The walls and floor are comprised of streaky, glossy black marble.

A square opening, in what looks like a paper-thin ceiling, appears cut with a razor. It established a one-dimensional color-blocking effect as we looked toward the sky. This flattened effect, we were soon to discover, was an essential component of the display.

In the span of about twenty minutes, colored lights in the room slowly changed, and so seemingly did the sky. It was an illusion. The sky was not gray, green, or dark blue.

In fact, it was sunset. (Or sunrise, which is the two times of day the exhibit is displayed.) The sky was pure cerulean blue. Believe me, we checked.

Only guests of Villa 31 have access to Mr. Turrell’s perception-defying installation, which made us feel like total Amanzoe VIPs.

Daytrippin’ from Amanzoe

One of the many things Aman does extraordinarily well is excursions. Amanzoe has more ways to explore the Peloponnese than we had time. We chose carefully, knowing how hard it would be to leave the villa.

At 9am, we boarded the Amanzoe One, a Wally powerboat, with a bottle of wine and a picnic lunch.

We sped past the islands of Spetses and Dokos on our way to Hydra. Hydra, we were told, is an island where time has stood still for over 200 years.

Hydra, Idra, Ydra

There are no motorized vehicles on Hydra (aside from the local ambulance). Horses, donkeys, and mules roam the streets as they had done in centuries past. They carry packaged goods, produce, and sometimes people, from the port into the town. Water taxis bob in the marina to take residents and tourists to the mainland.

Hydra isn’t only a picturesque town, with a central clock tower, and lemon and orange trees growing in abundance. It’s also an appealingly quiet one. The clip-clop of hooves was a welcome change from engines.

The slick stone steps led us high above the port, from where we could see daily life unfolding below. I got lost in a daydream of living on Hydra, with its simplicity, calm, and natural beauty.

Where wellness began

It can appear that ‘wellness’ is a new phenomenon, as it’s so trendy and newsworthy these days. The ancient town of Epidaurus, however, was at one time considered the healing and wellness center of the universe.

Sick people traveled by boat, and then walked for miles, to cure their ailments here as early as the 6th century B.C. As the fame of the region grew, so did its prosperity, which enabled an enormous stone amphitheater to be built.

When completed, it seated 14,000 people. To this day, while in partial ruins, even a lowered voice still carries to the uppermost rows. In fact, a yearly music festival returns to the stage each June. Mark your calendars.

Epidaurus also includes the ruins of a sanctuary, a hospital, temples, and a posh hotel. In 1988, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since Greece had just re-opened its doors to tourism, we were nearly alone at this ancient spiritual site.

Lunch Detour

We took an alternate route back to Amanzoe via the enchanting seaport town of Nafplio. Nafplio is a popular weekend destination for Athenians, the authenticity of the old town was palpable. There we shared a traditional Greek lobster and pasta lunch. To say we overindulged is an understatement.

Tourism is the primary source of revenue in Nafplio. Yet, it didn’t feel overly touristy. I noticed how everyone seemed to know one another along the waterfront promenade of local restaurants. After a few hours of wandering, we headed back to the resort. We were eager to sit poolside and dream about our next meal.

Amanzoe’s 24-hour menu

Excellent food and wine are to be expected at Amanzoe. That again is nothing Google can’t tell you. No guest will go hungry between the two open-air Greek/Mediterranean restaurants, and Nama, the Japanese-inspired restaurant off the main pool.

Thankfully, we discovered the 24-hour menu on our first day. No, not the room service menu, but a list of special dishes that need extra preparation time. The choices were abundant, and I wished I had another week to try them all.

We opted for Lamb ‘Kleftiko’ the following evening. It was presented in a traditional rustic dutch oven overflowing with aromatic scents. Like, rosemary, cinnamon, honey, and lemon. The 12-hour slow-baked lamb fell off the bone and soaked up the juices below. Potatoes and cubes of melting ‘Kefalotyri’ cheese completed the dish. It was divine.

Our personable waiter, Adam, revealed the origin of ‘Kleftiko’, which means ‘stolen’. During the Greek revolution, the guerrillas, called Klephts, survived by stealing lamb or goats from the hillside. Who needs Google when you have Adam?

Amanzoe’s Sustainability Sidebar

The Aman brand has a strong commitment to sustainability, environmental protection, and local culture. As an example, the food at the resort was both seasonal, as well as ethically-sourced.

Wine, From the Fire

The ‘Greek Hellfires’ ravaged 670,000 acres of land in 2007. Thousands of fires scorched the hillsides, and many vineyards didn’t survive, including the Brintziki Vineyard outside of Olympia. However, almost miraculously, their grapes did. From those unscathed grapes, left to struggle in extreme conditions, came wine. They named it ‘Dia Pyros’—‘from the fire’.

There are only 2300 bottles of this celebrated wine, each bottle numbered and signed by the vintner and the oenologist. Our waiter offered us a glimpse of this rare vintage, paired with the story of its endurance.

Peaceful Life found, at Amanzoe

What’s left to know? What parting words can complete our extraordinary experience? Perhaps this—in Sanskrit, ‘Amanzoe’ means ‘peaceful life”, a fitting name if there ever was one. But, maybe you already knew that.

Go ahead, Google it. I’ll wait.

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May 30, 2021
Uganda, what to see beyond the famous silverback gorillas

What to see, where to stay, and what to do, in Uganda / The famous silverback gorillas are certainly what put Uganda on the map for tourism. And rightly so, as it is the only part of the world where one can see these peaceful, majestic primates. There are none in captivity, so in order to spend any time with them, one must be prepared to travel far. And travel far I did, for a fleeting two hours observing them that I wouldn’t trade for anything.

Yes, two hours. Each gorilla permit afforded me exactly sixty minutes with the silverbacks. So, what is there to do with the other 23 hours of the day? A lot, it turns out. Uganda has much more to offer tourists than the mighty silverbacks.

But there is far more to see in Uganda beyond the silverback gorillas. There are traditional safaris to admire the famous climbing lions of Ishasha, for example. Or, sighting the elusive shoebill in the Mabamba Swamp. A boat ride to an island of rehabilitated chimpanzees in Lake Victoria.

What to do in Uganda: A Wild Frontiers Safari

Wild Frontiers was our tour operator, the frontrunner for gorilla tracking and safaris in Uganda. They helped us come up with a bespoke itinerary, secured our coveted gorilla tracking permits, and allowed for some flexibility on the ground. Flights, logistics, and accommodations were well organized and generally worked like clockwork. This is Africa, after all.

Our guides, lovely, warm-hearted locals, had studied for years to be able to tell the difference between the sound of a great blue turaco and a green-breasted pitta. Or, to be able to spot an African fish eagle from a kilometer away. They could drive for hours on end and still have the energy the next morning to prepare a pop-up omelet station on the plains.

We were in constant awe of the Ugandan guides and their wealth of knowledge about the wildlife, flora, and fauna, of their country.

What to see in Uganda: Equatorial Entebbe

Uganda is a landlocked country in eastern Africa. The small city of Entebbe, about 20 miles from the bustling capital of Kampala, is where Uganda’s only international airport resides. Entebbe sits on a peninsula on the northern shore of Uganda’s largest lake, Lake Victoria.

We crossed the lake, and directly through the equator, within three hours of arrival, on the way to visit the Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary. The lake seemed angry, and our little boat was tossed around violently for nearly an hour. Spray came at us from every angle, the boat pounded the waves. My eyes remained firmly shut to keep nausea at bay. Uganda—unpredictable from the start.

What to see in Uganda: Hungry, howling chimps

We arrived at the sanctuary, bedraggled, and soaking wet, and set off to see the 49 orphaned chimpanzees who roam the 40-acre island. That’s in comparison to the single acre allotted to the humans who work there and rehabilitate them. The chimps come to the barrier four times a day for food, and then slowly slink back into the overgrowth until the next feeding.

Although the feeding ritual was exciting, we were glad we didn’t plan it after our gorilla tracking later that week, as it seemed a much more commercial endeavor. We were happy to see that the orphaned chimps were well cared for, in a safe environment, and had access to medical attention should they need it.

Where to stay in Uganda: Hotel No. 5

Our boutique hotel, called No. 5, was hidden in a local neighborhood less than a ten-minute drive from the airport. Here, I was to spend two nights before heading off on my own to Queen Elizabeth National Park. From there, I was to meet up with my friend at our lodging in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park to start tracking the gorillas.

Each of the ten rooms at No. 5 faced a lush, intimate, courtyard, with overgrown tropical trees and plants. There was a charming pool set below the veranda where we would have meals and pre-dinner drinks while listening to the ongoing birdsong.

The rooms were modest, clean, and airy—the gauzy mosquito netting over the beds seemed more for show than necessity but did look quite pretty. Small balconies were a nice touch, a place to sit and listen to the hum of the surroundings. In the early morning, I heard the daily call to prayer as I drifted dreamily in and out of sleep.

Although the menus and meals were very nice at No. 5, they were surprisingly formal, a bit too heavy, and geared toward foreigners. This became a slightly disappointing theme at the various lodges we stayed at, and if I were to do it again, I would ask for more local Ugandan preparations as menu options.

What to see in Uganda: The Mabamba Swamp

While my friend worked for the few days we were in Entebbe, I took advantage of being alone with a guide and my camera. Wild Frontiers helped organize a boat trip through the wetlands of Mabamba. There, I spontaneously turned into a full-fledged bird geek. Don’t judge.

I saw statuesque egrets, metallic blue malachite kingfishers, and weightless African jacanas, to name a few aviary stand-outs.

The jacanas are often referred to as Jesus birds for the way they appear to walk on water. They have a uniquely evolved prenatal care system, and can often carry multiple babies under their wings at once. I was lucky enough to capture this maternal moment in real-time.

What to see in Uganda: The most famous bird you’ve never heard of

The prehistoric-looking shoebill, named for its big, clunky bill, is endangered, and numbers only twelve total across the entire 2500-hectare swamp.

Having never heard of the shoebill, I wasn’t too bothered about finding it, but as beginners luck would have it, we saw one within the first ten minutes of the four-hour boat ride. Even my guide was thrilled to see this elusive and reclusive specimen and reached for his own camera to capture it among the reedy, wetland grasses. I was told it is one of the top five most sought-after birds to spot in Africa. Bucket list bird: check.

The Prettiest, Ugly Bird

A few fun facts about a bird you also may have never heard of: shoebills can grow as tall as four or five feet when fully grown; they lay only two eggs, and after a year, kill the weaker one; they can remain motionless for extended periods of time stalking their prey. The idiom, ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’ came to mind as I thought it was, perhaps, the prettiest, ugly bird I had ever seen.

What to do in Uganda: Get local

Instead of driving back to Entebbe from the wetlands, my guide suggested we take a car ferry across Lake Victoria. Flashbacks to yesterday’s tumultuous journey stirred in my mind, but in the name of adventure, I decided to go for it. Lake Victoria, thankfully, was much calmer, and I was able to cross with my internal organs completely intact.

On the way to the ferry, I caught glimpses of rural Ugandan life: little girls danced in open wooden doorframes flaked with colorful paint; women peeled green bananas for makote (cooked plantains), toddlers shaved sugar cane with pangas (machetes). Mopeds kicked up clouds of red dust along the unpaved roads. Vegetable stands, roaming goats, pigs on leashes, women with bushels of fruit on their heads—an evolving portrait of village life.

While waiting at the Nakiwogo ferry dock, I was swarmed by fresh-faced and bright-eyed Ugandan kids. We took a few selfies, and they laughed at seeing themselves on screen. Teens played soccer with empty soda cans, dogs chased their own tails, and mothers fed infants while chatting with friends. That time was a gift. Quietly, I observed the villagers and thought to myself how I’d forgotten how often the simplest things in life are the best.

Where to eat in Uganda: Two Friends

Local knowledge, as they say, trumps all, which is how we found Two Friends, a restaurant situated squarely on the banks of Lake Victoria. With a convivial, remote, rustic island vibe, dangling strings of twinkling tea lights, and a menu of freshly caught Lake Victorian fish, Two Friends was a hidden gem.

Our fish came baked in green banana leaves, served in tin foil, with all of the savory juices to mop up with the rice and veggies. The meal for three, (actually four, as we sent our idling taxi driver his meal, too) and a bottle of wine came to the economical total of $60 USD. It was one of the best meals of the trip, made most memorable by its laid-back and carefree atmosphere.

Solo travels

The next morning, I boarded a bush plane at Entebbe Airport and flew two hours to the Kihihi Airstrip located just outside of Queen Elizabeth National Park. Having never traveled solo before, I was both exhilarated and anxious. Moments after touching down, I met my guide Echy, and any fears I had dissipated. I was reminded of a Ted Talk by Ken Robinson, who advised, ‘Walk towards things that worry you.’ I started to walk.

The safari begins

On our first game drive, late that afternoon, Echy discovered a tree with a flock of gray-crowned cranes perched upon it. One by one, these magnificent birds flew effortlessly across the savannah, over the acacia and fig trees, and towards the descending sun.

Also known as the crested crane, it is the national bird of Uganda, and its likeness sits proudly on its flag. Due, in part, to poaching, it is now sadly on the endangered species list and numbers less than 20,000 in the country.

This majestic bird is distinguished by its head of rigid, golden feathers that look like the crown for which it is named. A large, fire-engine red throat pouch makes it especially easy to recognize.

Where to stay in Uganda: Ishasha Wilderness Camp

Remembering how much I had loved tent life while in Botswana a few years ago, I was excited to get to Ishasha Wilderness Camp, which is located inside Queen Elizabeth National Park, along the Ntungwe River.

The ten permanent canvas tents are rustic, yet have everything needed to enjoy wilderness life. Each tent had a wide, stone, porch with two chairs facing the lazy river.

The porch felt like a front-row IMAX theater seat for BBC’s Blue Planet. A few meandering and thirsty elephants drank from the river just a few hundred yards away. A troop of cheeky vervet monkeys ran circles around my tent, both skittish and curious at the same time, scooping up their rebellious babies in an all too human-like way.

The large, thatched-roof common area was ambient, and open-air, to the river. Here, even more, elephants came to share an afternoon sundowner with us.

It was also where we had our meals. Being solo, I was paired with another lone traveler named Matthew—a charming headmaster from Botswana and an avid birder. Matthew became my safari partner-in-exploration for the following two days.

‘You won’t believe what I saw!’

One of the best parts of being on safari is coming back to the lodge after a game drive to compare sightings and photos with other guests.

Our camp had a magnetic board so we could place markers where we had seen various wildlife each day. Depending upon who you were comparing notes with that evening, the stories sometimes became a game of oneupmanship.

What to see in Uganda: Ishasha

At Ishasha Wilderness Camp, as opposed to No. 5, the mosquito netting was less for show, and more out of need. Yet, as a point of comparison, I have been bitten by more mosquitos while walking my dogs in DC than in my entire ten days in Uganda.

As is typical at safari camps, I was not allowed to wander back to my tent unsupervised, as the animals roam freely. No argument here. But the loveliest sounds were at night when the animals were awake, and I was tucked warmly under the covers listening to the chorus of wildlife. It was truly a shame when I finally dozed off, as hard as I tried not to, leaving the animal world behind until the morning.

What to see in Uganda: Tree-Climbing lions

Queen Elizabeth National Park’s claim to fame is the tree-climbing lion. They are an unusual phenomenon, as lions are not adapted evolutionarily to scale trees, like leopards, for instance. Queen Elizabeth National Park is one of only two places in the world where these rare lions can be found, the other being southern Tanzania. It is widely thought that the reason for their climbing is to escape not only the pesky flies but the severe temperatures.

While lucky enough to spot a few of the beautiful lions, they simply refused to do any of their famed climbing. Content, we watched them lazing on the ground. The male lions of Ishasha are notably dark-maned, making them look even more magnificent and regal.

What to do in Uganda: Sundowner on the plains

There is nothing quite like sunset drinks on safari. After hours of being in a vehicle, bumping along dirt paths, it is a chance to embrace stillness and absorb the surrounding sounds. We spent an hour on the edge of a steep rift, overlooking the lush yellow and green valley below. Gin and tonic in hand, I was in my happy place.

In the distance, elephants roamed, their trunks raised to grab leaves from the trees. Kobs glistened, golden and glorious, in the light. The sun tightened its grip on the landscape, wringing out the last rays of light, and casting vivid colors across the valley.

As if on cue, the sun hovered behind a spindly tree, which created an eerie, stark silhouette against the blood-red sky.

Always expect the unexpected

Every game drive is unique, which is likely why guides never get bored with their jobs. The morning I was to leave Ishasha to meet my friend in Bwindi, was one of those unexpected experiences I should have expected.

The drive was two hours, including 45 minutes to exit the boundary of Queen Elizabeth National Park. Five minutes or so into our journey, Echy jerked the jeep to a screeching halt. I did a quick scan, there was nothing to see, no animals, no movement.

He reversed five yards, and off to the right of the jeep, camouflaged in the tall wispy grass, was a martial eagle sitting on the ground, completely still. Echy whispered to us that the eagle was strangling its prey.

We sat silently. The eagle’s intense, beady, yellow eyes pierced through us like daggers. He was certainly not going to give up his catch on our part. A few minutes later, he flew off to a nearby dead tree to keep watch and protect his kill.

A dead baby kob, (antelope), curled up in a fetal position, lay in his wake. The kob had likely been sleeping while its mom went out to find food, but was discovered by the hungry eagle. A sad, yet realistic portrait, of the animal kingdom. How Echy spotted the eagle while cruising along at 30 mph mystifies me to this day.

Final Notes

I was giddy from the sighting, my first ever real-time kill, so I didn’t notice Echy speaking to the driver of a passing jeep. The other driver mentioned seeing two hyenas out hunting but had unfortunately lost the trail.

Using what can only be described as ‘Spidey-sense’, Echy looked to the distant sky, saw vultures circling, and had a hunch. He threw the jeep into gear, and lo and behold, quickly found the two hyenas devouring their freshly caught prey—another poor kob.

The scene was spellbinding; the light, luminous, and the pond, seafoam blue. The kob was bloody and torn to shreds. We listened to the sound of bones being crushed by the hyena’s unyielding jaws. The vultures tried to close in but were steadily kept at bay. When the hyenas were finished, they knew all too well there would be nothing left.

There is a world of adventure beyond the silverbacks in Uganda. Thank you, Echy, for showing it to me.

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May 7, 2021
Up for a Challenge? Why the Best Family Resort In Punta Mita is The Four Seasons.

Read on to discover the best family resort in Punta Mita— The Four Seasons. Punta Mita is the sun-soaked, palm tree-dotted peninsula in Mexico. And it’s one of the most luxurious spots in Mexico.

For The Love of Travel

I love traveling to hidden, off-the-beaten-path, inaccessible, far-flung destinations. I love hotels that are boutique in size, blend seamlessly into the environment, and whose entrances are easily passed unnoticed.

The Four Seasons Punta Mita is not one of those places.

Yet, it is as close to resort perfection as one can find. Anyone who has been there can write effusive, enthusiastic, and exuberant reviews; wax lyrical about its well-appointed rooms, and its impeccable grounds, and define the nuances between each of the five on-site restaurants. Anyone can describe this stunning property that hangs magnificently off of a jagged, rugged peninsula.

I started to think, (a dangerous undertaking as my husband likes to chide). There are countless typical luxuries that we have come to expect from world-class resorts. Yet, I wondered if there are new table stakes at play. Is there a new set of expectations, now as we begin to crawl out of our bubbles, and into a decidedly different world of travel?

Are these new luxury amenities tangible, intangible, or both? Does the Four Seasons in Punta Mita deliver? And what role, if any, does Mother Nature play? Let’s tally it up.

Setting the stage at the best family resort in Punta Mita

Punta Mita is a 1500-acre private peninsula in Nayarit, Mexico. The peninsula, surrounded by the mighty Pacific on three sides, is a gated community of perfectly extravagant villas, perfectly pristine beach resorts, and perfectly manicured golf courses. Do you detect a theme? Perfect, read on.

Upon arriving at the richly colored garden entrance of the Four Seasons, we are whisked through the open-air lobby towards the hotel’s money view. It’s an expansive 360-degree panorama of the ocean and grounds. Liliana, our concierge, treats us to the new-ish hospitality trend, the ‘non’ check-in, check-in.

We are invited to sit and relax. A server stood nearby with glasses of bubbly, ruby-red fruit punch, and a carafe of tequila (for those of us keen to start the festive season straight away).

Our bags are swiftly transferred to our rooms. No fussy front desk, no wasted minutes waiting for a room key, and no delays. (The Four Seasons: 1, Mother Nature: 0)

Oceanfront life at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

The Oceanfront Casita was true to its name. It isn’t unusual for a resort to claim an oceanfront room that is actually not quite ‘fronting’ the ocean. Anyone who says a hotel room is just a place to rest their head at night hasn’t been to this room.

Our casita was close enough to the sea that I tasted the salt in the air when I stood on the veranda. All that lay between us and the water’s edge were a few low-lying desert plants and lone cacti.

Floor-to-ceiling doors slid open to the outermost edges of the room—a stage welcoming us to the Pacific. The room itself is simple and modern. Each piece of furniture is arranged to maximize the view. A table filled with housemade chips, guacamole, and yet more tequila sat nearby. If the Four Seasons were trying to get us to spend seven days in our casita, they were doing an excellent job.

A flock of seagulls skimmed the water’s surface in front of me, as if on cue from the front desk. An enormous, perfectly-placed boulder broke the surface of the water in the near distance. Later that evening, we discovered it lit by a spotlight, creating an ethereal shimmer to the otherwise inky, black sea.

Which was here first, I wondered, the rock or the resort? My money was on the rock, whose starring role at the resort was likely discovered by a group of clever architects. (Four Seasons: 1, Mother Nature: 1)

Start your day with a Smize

I’m biased toward Mexico. It is a country whose hospitality has welcomed us countless times over the years. Whether a villa vacation, a swanky beach resort, or a wind sports mecca in a sleepy fishing village, Mexico over-delivers. Where is the Mexican hospitality manual hiding, and why won’t they share it with the rest of the world?

The main restaurant, Dos Catrinas, opened up towards the Pacific Ocean. Rafael greeted me each morning and caught on to my breakfast routine immediately. A creature of habit, I like to sit leisurely with my first cappuccino, sometimes writing, sometimes watching for whales, always observing and overhearing, before I move on to anything food-related.

Overheard in Punta Mita

A man at the next table appeared to have a serendipitous encounter with an old acquaintance. Without a trace of irony, he asked, “So, have you had a good year?”. I cringed. At another table, I heard a toddler ask her dad, “What’s your spirit animal?” What’s mine, I thought? Overhearing is a favorite vacation pastime.

Rafael had an endearing way of smiling with his eyes. In our current mask-wearing world, a ‘smize’, or eye smile, is a thing. Just ask supermodel, Tyra Banks, who coined the verb back in 2009 on her TV series, America’s Top Model. Rafael nailed the smize—Tyra would have been impressed. (The Four Seasons: 2, Mother Nature: 1)

The staff’s graciousness was a thread that ran deep and wide throughout the resort. While one could argue that that kind of hospitality is table stakes at a luxury resort (and I agree, it is) somehow, the Four Seasons took it much further. They made a 170+ room resort feel as small and personal as a boutique hotel.

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Beaching, the sport

The two, wide crescent beaches that flanked the property equally captured my attention. More naturally placed boulders and rocks jutted out from the sea, and foamy white, waves crashed against them with wild abandon.

At the start of sunset, when the tide was low, we walked far out into the tidal pools and admired the views of the coastline from afar.

We are beach people and settled ourselves on loungers under wide, thatched umbrellas each morning. Hours melted away. All meals and drinks were conveniently delivered to us. I looked at my step counter for the day: 26. Yikes.

Less typical beachside surprises came in the form of a pop-up catered birthday party on the sand. Or, the roving foot masseuses that could be booked on demand. A daily ‘treat’ (ice-pop, fruit, iced drink), was offered each afternoon, along with the resort’s ice cream cart that had kids and adults alike lining up.

A sandy taco stand nestled between the two coastal crescents served up trios of made-to-order tacos. Home-made pico de gallo topped the pork carnitas and low-key wooden picnic tables made for a lazy, boozy, lunch.

An Evian spritz, and a white, chilled towel, came by just when the sun was at its peak. And, although I didn’t meet him, the resort had a roaming ‘sunglass doctor’, for those who may have had an icky smudge on their Maui Jims. Over the top? For sure. Yet, all these perks were somehow delivered in an unobtrusive, dare I say, understated way.

Resident Hawks at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

The most clever beach amenity, however, was not on the beach. Two regal resident hawks swiftly flew overhead throughout the day. Originally, I assumed the hawks and their falconer were there as entertainment for the kids.

In fact, they were there to scare away greedy crows, and any other birds that attempted to steal a guest’s guacamole when they were otherwise snoozing, or deep into the latest Kristin Hannah novel. A natural way to eradicate a simple nuisance. Novel, indeed! (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 1)

More family-friendly resort ideas:

Far off the beaten path and surfing on-site—Mukul, in Nicaragua, is the ultimate resort for the family.

Keep Mexican hospitality top of mind at yet another family-friendly spot, Esperanza in Cabo San Lucas.

Insta-Pooling at the best family resort in Punta Mita

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Nuna, the resort’s stunningly designed infinity-edged pool. Nuna could have had its own Instagram account, and perhaps it does. By day, its glassy surface mirrored the tall palms and the clouds above. At sunset, it reflected the prismatic patterns of orange, red, and purple that took over the sky.

The pool was a show-stopper. Even the semicircular shaded awning, for those who prefer less sun, was photo-worthy. Uniquely designed, guests could enjoy both the pool and its views over the ocean, simultaneously.

We lost our younger kids to the lazy river for a few hours each day. I tend to associate a lazy river with an opulent, over-the-top, behemoth of a hotel on an island in the Atlantic. The Four Seasons interpretation was tasteful and nestled deeply enough into the resort that one might miss it if unaware of its presence.

The lazy river, combined with a large game room (ping pong, air hockey, and about a dozen large, flat-screen, PlayStations), made the resort kid-friendly without being kid-centric. The game room was also an ideal way to protect them from the sun’s midday rays for a bit. Win, win.

Wildlife, if you know where to look

Diego, one of the many personable waiters, told me that whales usually passed by the resort between 3-4pm, on their way from Puerto Vallarta. I didn’t Doubt Diego but only hoped the whales were punctual, as I was excited to enjoy the whale procession with my afternoon latte.

Whale watching has always been one of my favorite sports in Mexico. I only wish it burned more calories.

As it turns out, the whales were in good form that week, maybe celebrating the end of 2020 with the same enthusiasm that we were. My binoculars were constantly scanning the sea for the tell-tale ocean spray. A clue that a whale will soon break the surface for air. (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 2)

Later in the evening, dozens of baby sea turtles were released into the Pacific, their tiny flippers pushing through the sand. Shallow waves knocked them off balance for a moment while they once again found their bearings.

It was impossible not to route for them as they blindly struggled to reach the sea. Mother Nature in all her glory. (The Four Seasons: 3, Mother Nature: 3)

On-site surf at The Four Seasons in Punta Mita

The rest of my family prefers sports that actually do burn calories. One of the inherent draws of the Four Seasons Punta Mita was the opportunity to surf directly from the resort’s beach. This is unusual. At many resort-based surfing destinations, one needs to drive to get to the ideal surf spot. Having it on-site was a luxurious convenience.

We first met Grant, from TropicSurf, a few years back during a spring break at Mukul, an Auberge resort, in Nicaragua. Our kids had immediately taken to the breaks with his enthusiasm and encouragement. On this trip, Grant even managed to get me out on a board. No small feat, as many of my friends know, being in the ocean is decidedly not my thing.

Although TropicSurf is not a part of the Four Seasons resort, it is a snap to organize. The combination of having TropicSurf on hand and the natural environment in which to surf give a point to both Mother Nature and the resort. (The Four Seasons: 4, Mother Nature: 4)

Mother Nature, for the win at The Four Seasons

How often does one wake up in the morning to a full moon? For me, once.

7:46am December 30, 2020. A rising full moon cast light across the sea towards my veranda. The rarity of the moment did not escape me, nor did the fact that I could see the lunar seas and highlands of the moon’s surface with my naked eye.

The sea bubbled under the moonlit path that unfurled towards me like a red carpet on Oscar Night. Layers of pale pinks and cornflower blues stretched across the sky like an enormous gender reveal for twins.

I thought about the whales—were they confused? Would they still head up here from Puerto Vallarta today as planned? The sun began to rise quickly, greedily chasing the moon from its territory. I watched with as much intensity as I could manage pre-caffeine. The sky was changing at breakneck speed, and this unique phenomenon, I knew, would soon be over.

8:17am. A fitting goodbye for 2020. I got dressed and headed towards caffeine. (The Four Seasons: 4, Mother Nature: 5)

Nothing is perfect

I am reluctant to use the word ‘perfect’ in travel writing. Perfect has a ceiling. It doesn’t allow room for improvement—and who doesn’t have room to improve? Here, I used “perfect” to question the perception of perfection and to think about my own ideals and needs.

Time, as my Soul Cycle instructor, Tanysha, proclaimed mid-ride yesterday, is one thing we can never get back. There is a time and place for adventure and a time and place for pure luxury, both tangible and intangible.

The Four Seasons Punta Mita may be considered a ‘typical’ luxury beach resort. Yet, it found atypical ways to push the envelope in new travel expectations (with a little help from Mother Nature). Some might even say, perfect.

But who’s keeping score?

Click here and see what all the fuss is about at The Four Seasons, Punta Mita

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April 17, 2021

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