Inness is the latest property to take on the Catskills, in New York State. With its low-key escapist vibe and majestic mountain scenery, Inness delivers a weekend getaway for those lucky enough to live within driving distance. Think a cabin-laden, nature-centric resort in the Catskills can’t deliver? Inness will prove you wrong.
“Give me a 5-hour radius, Daniel?” I plead. My husband hates to drive. The last time we took a road trip, a four-hour drive turned into eight, due to an overturned tractor trailer and an ill-timed oil spill. Let’s just say that closed the books on road trips for good.
With airplanes being public enemy #1 of travel these days, I thought I could re-open the case. Newspaper headlines cry, “Unfriendly Skies”, “Airmageddon”, and “The Summer of Lost Luggage”. Every day I’d email Daniel an article reinforcing my point. I’m nothing if not persistent. Although Daniel would likely use a different adjective.
I send more self-serving sound bytes, but he’s unresponsive. If I’m making any headway, it’s impossible to tell.
As a last resort, I offer this: “We can listen to 80s on 8 the whole way.” A statement, while brilliant, I regret the moment it’s leaving my mouth. I detect a glint of possibility in his eyes.
Inness, here we come.
You’re going to the Catskills?
Friends ask, ‘Ummm, are the Catskills still a thing? Were they ever?’. Yes, we are going to the Catskills. The Catskills of Dirty Dancing lore. That place your grandparents used to go. ‘The Catskills are cool again.’, I reply. I hope I’m right. If they aren’t, I’ve given up road trip rights forever.
I’m sensing you don’t believe me. I can see your mouse hovering over that red dot to close this tab. Give a travel blogger, I mean, a travel writer a chance.
We fly past local farm stands and ramshackle barns that look one gust of wind away from absolute destruction. No traffic, no detours, or oil spills. Waze rules—we arrive at Inness at four hours and fifty-eight minutes.
We park. In the distance, enormous willows weep in pairs and in clusters. Queen Anne’s Lace delicately weaves around tall grasses. Cattails emerge with telltale cigar-shaped tips, adding texture to the overgrown landscape. Their pollen has already disintegrated into wispy pieces of cottony fluff that float dreamily through the air.
Thank you, Inness. This is just the welcome I’m hoping for. First, I dutifully thank the traffic gods. Next, I unsuccessfully try to get the refrain from ‘Karma Chameleon’ out of my head. We head towards check-in.
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Inness, the namesake
American painter George Inness came of age during the Hudson River School era. He is referred to as ‘The father of American landscape painting.’ It took me all of 60 seconds to see why the farmhouse and cabin-laden property of Inness is named for him.
A master of light and tone, George Inness couldn’t have chosen a better place to paint than this pastoral part of New York State. The landscape is the main event at Inness. Its location between the Catskill and Shawangunk mountain ranges provides both wide-angle vistas and macroscopic wildlife. I’m smitten. I think George would be, too.
Inness, the property
Inness is comprised of 28 cabins and 12 farmhouse rooms set over 220 bucolic acres. Each cabin is created to maximize the view. I had a hard time deciding where to spend my viewing time. On our private deck? On the hill by the fire pit overlooking the valley? Or, from the adults-only circle pool. In the end, I rotate between all three. I’m an equal opportunity view seeker.
Inness is all about the outdoors. Yet, the indoors have been curated and designed with ‘modern-farmhouse-chic’ in mind. A combination of sparse Scandinavian living with layers of luxury like Frette sheets and robes. Aesop toiletries and locally-sourced snacks are within arm’s reach. The cabins feel effortlessly designed, with vintage furniture and found objects, tea kettles, and minimalistic earth-toned pottery.
The Farmhouse has lovely common and outdoor spaces. A pool table, ping pong table, and corn hole are ready and waiting for a match. An honor bar opens in the afternoon, and we take full advantage of its proximity to the pool.
Fit For a King
Our King Cabin interior is a lesson in geometry. Two pentagons are divided by a square archway. A lone bulb encased by hand-blown glass dangles above a minimal wooden table in the center of the room.
Sheaths of linen are draped against the windows and match the warm dove-gray color of the walls. The Frette bed linens also match the walls, so the entire room feels bathed in shades of gray.
The bed is so underdone it appears naked. No decorative pillows, no patterns, or embellishments. It’s a perfect metaphor for Inness. Underdone, but luxurious.
Our cabin’s exterior is a lesson in simplicity. Rich, graphite-colored siding, iron-framed windows, and doors pop up between the wild green grasses. The cabins pay homage to the Catskill resorts of old, but with a casual and modern twist. They run serpentine along a dirt road that leads from the Farmhouse at one end to the restaurant barn at the other.
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Peas in a pod, and other delights at Inness
One of the reasons I choose Inness is its closeness to the mountains. I love hiking with Daniel. Nothing makes him happier than tackling a mountain with a view. Nothing makes me happier than eating a great meal after tackling a mountain with a view. We are two peas in the same pod.
In addition to DJ’ing five hours’ worth of Tear For Fears, A-Ha, and other dreadful 80s bands, it’s Daniel’s job to choose our hikes. It’s my job to choose our restaurants. Two peas.
Inness’ restaurant encompasses the same simplicity found elsewhere on the property. The large open dining barn has a convivial bar and two outdoor dining areas. Why anyone would choose to sit anywhere but the balcony overlooking the fields and mountains is a mystery I will never solve.
Creatures of Habit
In fact, we eat every meal at the same balcony table and never get bored—either of the menu or the views. Each night the balcony serves us much more than lovely meals.
Storms with dramatic purple clouds roll through while we share a plateful of thinly-sliced tuna carpaccio. Bolts of lightning strike during our shared course of homemade pasta. By the time our mains are served, the sky has cleared and golden light touches the fields below.
On Mondays and Tuesdays, Inness serves wood-fired pizzas and pasta dishes only. For the remainder of the week, the menu is more extensive. It includes local finds like steelhead trout with butter beans and salsa verde and an oven-roasted pork chop with charred rapini and hot honey mustard.
We did attempt to have a dinner off-property. Perhaps find a local farm with a restaurant? But we are creatures of habit, as my friends and family can attest. Leaving the ever-changing skies and sunset from the balcony never materialized. Shocker.
The Catskills Overdeliver
Daniel expects to be underwhelmed by the hiking trails in the Catskills. He’s what you’d call a hiking snob. To be fair, we’ve done some challenging hikes in the past few years. The Tetons, Chamonix, and Helvellyn, as examples. How can the Catskills compare?
I love when Daniel’s expectations are exceeded.
The downside of having no say in our hikes is that I never know what I’m getting into. Traditionally, Daniel and I fight while we hike. We fight because he gets us lost. He won’t admit that, of course. But it’s written right here on the internet so it’s 100% true.
The upside of our fighting is that it scares the bears.
Lakes and Loops
Daniel tells me we are hiking Millbrook Mountain to Gertrude’s Nose. It’s a 7-mile loop hike, rather than an in-and-out one. I’m thrilled. I don’t like in-and-out hikes. I spend the whole ‘in’ wondering when we are getting to the ‘out’. It spoils the experience.
The hike, which begins at the base of Lake Minnewaska, starts out friendly enough. Aside from the sign at the trailhead warning us that we are entering a rattlesnake habitat and to take heed. At least that takes my mind off the bears.
The hike has a soft-padded start, with fallen pine needles paving our way. Inevitably, the work begins, and the terrain gets steep. But thankfully the trail rewards us with views that are worth the struggle. And Daniel’s constant amazement at the hike’s beauty makes me feel like saying ‘I told you so.’
For the sake of marriage preservation, I refrain. Plus, he hasn’t gotten us lost yet.
On Gertrude’s Nose
Who is this Gertrude and why is her nose so climb-worthy? In a nutshell, Dutch settler Gertrude Bruyn set up her house on the range opposite this geological marvel—a cliff escarpment that projects out over the Palmaghatt Ravine ‘like a nose’. I wonder if she’s disappointed by the body part chosen for this honor.
The cliffs, crevices, and joint cracks that lead to the nose offer spectacular eastern and southern views of the Hudson Valley. It also offers a sheer drop to imminent death. If selfies are your thing, think twice. Your Instagram feed isn’t worth it. As silver linings go, maybe you’ll meet Gertrude in your next life.
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Where’s the Lemon Squeeze?
Daniel tells me our next hike is called Lemon Squeeze. Cute, I think. How hard can that be? He mentions it’s another 7-mile loop, but not to worry because it’s mostly downhill. Why I don’t calculate what that says about the uphill part still boggles my mind.
One mile straight up a mountain is what I fail to compute. It’s a doozy of a climb, and I never use the word doozy. We crawl under, over, and around rocks that weigh several tons and balance precariously upon one another. A maze of boulders and tight squeezes dot the route.
Every time I think we have come upon Lemon Squeeze, an even squeezier spot appears. Finally, the real squeeze is obvious, as only children aged ten and younger or supermodels can get through without losing layers of skin.
After climbing a slippery ladder within an ultra-narrow crevice, I pop out onto a rock ledge overlooking a cerulean blue lake and matching skies. I kiss the rocks under my hands and feet and thank the Almighty this is not an in-and-out trail. The views of Mohonk Lake, creepy Mohonk Mountain House, and the Catskill range are worth every layer of skin I lose that day.
Later, a friend texts me she hiked Lemon Squeeze too—when she was ten. I’m ever-humbled.
The best reward for a morning of hiking is threefold: food, wine, and a pool. Inness has all three waiting for us each day. We dive deep into relaxation like the seasoned professionals we are.
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Inness is for the dogs, and other well-behaved guests
If you live in NYC, Boston, or Philly, I envy your proximity to Inness. As is noted by the license plates which fill the parking lot, the property clearly pulls from the northeast. A mini-escape from the summer heat and city life, Inness is a quick 90-minute drive from Brooklyn. I would have definitely had control of Sirius XM if our drive was that short.
As an added bonus, Inness welcomes dogs (for a fee). The website states it accepts up to two, crated, well-socialized, and well-trained dogs per reservation. This rules out our labs for one reason for sure. That Frette duvet cover would never have survived Indy and Shaka.
However, we meet many adorable canines while at Inness. Most are better behaved than the guests.
Pool, Golf, and other obstacles at Inness
We aren’t golfers. At least not yet. I’ll go out on a limb and say I’ll never golf. But then my dad will inevitably comment, ‘Never say never! You now eat fish!’ and I’ll never hear the end of it.
I overhear a woman at the pool describing the course as having a good aura. That sounds a bit woo-woo, but what do I know about the past lives of golf courses? Built by King Collins Golf, the course has nine holes designed for ‘repeat play to fully appreciate the countless shot-making possibilities.” Their words, not mine.
Two pools book-end the property. The rectangular, kid-friendly pool and the circular adults-only one. I imagine the architects discussing how to keep shrieking children as far away from the grown-ups as possible. The ones who have just dumped, I mean, dropped off their kids at summer camp. Well-played, team Inness.
Inness takes advantage of that fantastic, new middle-aged activity—the obstacle course. Part Tough Mudder, part elementary school playground, the course is a nice alternative to the classic hotel gym, of which there is one on-site, as well.
Checking Out at Inness
Three nights at Inness is the right amount of time to escape the city heat and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. A leisurely balcony breakfast allows us to savor the valley and mountain views one last time before we pile into the car.
The check-in/check-out greenhouse of Inness doubles as a museum-like boutique and overpriced farm stand. We have our boxed leftovers from last night’s dinner for a road trip picnic. ‘This couldn’t happen on an airplane, Daniel.’ I don’t say.
We jump in the car and I quickly change the station to ’90s on 9’. I glance back at Inness. I miss the balcony.
George Inness died in 1894. According to his son, he was viewing the sunset, when he threw up his hands into the air and exclaimed, “My God! Oh, how beautiful!” Then he fell to the ground and died.
That’s the way to go.
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Beautiful post as always! And yes to all things Catskills a place I called home for many years. Now I need to go stay at Inness!
It looks like such a stunning place! I love the photography. Blue skies and greenery against the geometric architecture. Can you fit us into your pod? xx
Looks like a Beautiful place to live out summer!
Absolutely perfect! Well, maybe the only thing missing is a watermelon. LOL! IYKYK!
A farmhouse equipped with simplistic and utility items constructed in a picturesque location that abounds in nature can make an outing invigorating and refreshing. I have fallen in love with Inness.
Thank you for the lovely comment. Inness is certainly a place to fall in love if nature and simplicity are important to you. I hope you get to visit one day. Thank you for reading. -Jamie
Surrounded by the beauty of nature! Love it. As always your photography and comment are great. Thank you for sharing.