Exploring San Miguel de Allende, Mexico /
Visit San Miguel de Allende between March and April. That‘s when the intensely vivid purple Jacaranda trees take over the already majestic landscape. But even if you miss the blooming Jacarandas, you won’t be disappointed. San Miguel is a city that is entirely built around color. Rich ochres, terra cottas, burnt oranges, and lush persimmon dress the Spanish Colonial architecture. They fill every street and passageway with warmth.
Throughout the day, light bounces off the colorful stucco walls, creating ever-changing hues and textures. As the day turns to dusk, those colors shift even further, creating subtler and richer variances.
Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, San Miguel is one of the prettiest and best-preserved hamlets in the Americas. It’s easy to see how this beautiful town, built into the side of a mountain in central Mexico, has been a haven for artists, writers, and ex-pats for decades. Unfortunately, the secret is officially out, as San Miguel was voted the best city in the world by Travel + Leisure in 2017 and 2018. It dropped a spot in 2020 but bounced back with a vengeance to recover its title in 2021.
Does San Miguel deserve the honor? Let’s find out.
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel
The centerpiece of San Miguel is, without a doubt, the looming neo-gothic church, Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel. Built in the 17th c. with pink and orange facades, spires, and pinnacles, it’s not only the tallest building in San Miguel but the most spectacular. It’s a magical spot from dusk until dawn. Street vendors line the plaza, their heads piled high with straw hats or trailing kids’ balloons.
Folk artists sell their masterpieces. Mariachi bands strike up a tune on a whim. Costumed street performers complete the lively scene. I sit and enjoy the evolving light that plays out over the Gaudi-inspired church. The most iconic piece of architecture in the city, it‘s said that Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia inspired it.
The trees around Plaza El Jardin are tightly manicured, looking as if they were each given a severe bob haircut. The benches that line the plaza are a great respite from the hot sun and to relax during the day.
Rooftop Life
San Miguel is a city that is best seen from two distinct vantage points, street level and from high above. The street level has meandering narrow cobbled alleyways, and I stumble upon an espresso bar cut into the side of a building wall. Ceramic boutiques, art galleries, and free-standing sculptures hide in other alleys. I spy local kids hanging from windows and couples walking hand in hand. Lovely trees abound and add even more color to the illustrious palette.
The other viewpoint is from a perch high above. There are many places in San Miguel in which to achieve this. Our favorite spot by far is Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar at the Rosewood Hotel. A magnificent rooftop in its own right, even if it didn’t boast the best views in the city. But it does, and that’s how we find ourselves lounging for a few hours with cocktails and light tapas as the sun starts its slow descent and lights up the skyline like a Broadway show.
The lucky ones score front-row seats—prime tables with unobstructed views of La Parroquia and its transforming colors. I am awed to think that this happens nearly every night of the year here in San Miguel.
Casa Estana
Thanks to a friend’s generosity, we are invited to stay in his villa just off the main square. Casa Estana is a three-bedroom villa with a spectacular roof deck—the true meaning of a hidden gem.
The unassuming door off the street gives us no inkling of what luxury was to be found inside. We enter an open courtyard with stone fountains. Then we walk through another door into the perfectly appointed home. A modern kitchen, multiple fireplaces, luxury linens, and towels. Colorful flowers adorn the tables on each level.
The true highlight of Casa Estana Is its charming and spacious roof deck. It’s a place to unwind on its plush couches, look down upon the lush trees, or have a drink by the fire pit. Casa Estana has this amazing knack for making us feel like we are in the action and outside of the action simultaneously.
Eating our way through the city
San Miguel has become known as a gastronomic hub in recent years. At one time San Miguel catered to backpackers, but today its appeal is far wider. Restaurants like Moxi and Áperi have attracted a refined and luxury-minded base of travelers to the city.
We eat a few meals at Casa Estana, as it’s a challenge to leave the beauty of the roof deck. One day we venture to Café Muro for lunch. Café Muro is a simple place with wooden chairs and metal tables. Folk art hangs askew on the walls. Located on a dead-end street, it’s easy to miss.
The Mexican food is authentic, and without pretense. I have a bowl of tortilla soup that I‘ll dream about years later. The fresh, crispy tortilla strips are placed at the bottom of the bowl. Our server slowly pours a warm rich broth over it. The soup is then topped off with fresh sour cream and chopped herbs. Sopa Azteca is perfection in a bowl.
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Side trip in San Miguel—Sanctuary Atotonilco
We are told a trip to San Miguel would not be complete without a stop at the Sanctuary Atotonilco. Located about 15 minutes outside of the city, it is an 18th-century church complex and is now a World Heritage Site. An incredible example of Mexican Baroque art and architecture, the murals, inscriptions, and frescoes that adorn every wall and ceiling of the church leave me speechless.
It’s said that the landscape of the town of Atotonilco is reminiscent of Jerusalem, which gives the site an even holier aura. Mesquite trees, desert scrub, and acacia trees are in abundance and we feel transported back in time while walking the grounds.
The exterior of the church is simple and plain, which makes the experience of entering so much more magical. It’s completely unexpected. We spend an hour admiring the architecture and art before leaving for an al fresco lunch near Nirvana, a little oasis in the countryside.
So long, San Miguel
Time passes at a leisurely pace. The beautiful old buildings and churches catch us at every turn, adding to the innate charm of San Miguel. It’s a happy city. A colorful city. And above all, a city that begs us to return.
Click here for my wish list destination hot sheet. It’s free.
Interactive Map: San Miguel
Looking for More Mexico Inspiration? Click here for Esperanza, the family-friendly resort in Cabo San Lucas.
The est né en Colombie, mais a déménagé à les états-Unis à un age précoce où il savait qu’il voulait être un joueur de football.
Il a été hit-or-miss cette saison.