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Tag: luxury hotel

Amangiri is the hideaway hidden in plain sight

Amangiri is one of the most luxurious resorts in the world. Amangiri has won awards for its spectacular pool, its desert location, and over-the-top excursions. Read on for a sneak peek into Utah’s decadent resort, Amangiri. Discover if a vacation in the Utah desert is right for you.

What’s Aman?

Years ago, when we lived in Tokyo, I remember a dinner party where we met a woman named Fang. She’d been an ex-pat in Japan for years. We were fresh off the proverbial boat, trying to make sense of a new and foreign life. After she casually mentioned an upcoming trip to Aman in Indonesia, we innocently asked, “What’s Aman?”. Cue sardonic laughter, followed by a cryptic smile that implied, ‘If you have to ask, maybe you are at the wrong dinner party’. Fast forward a decade. We have since learned about the inherent draw of Aman and Amangiri, a luxurious oasis hidden in the Utah desert.

The Aman group of resorts is scattered across the globe. They define a niche of low-key, high-end luxury, unlike much of what is out there, which tends to be either one or the other. Typically, in far-flung, remote, and unique destinations, they almost always sit discreetly in their environments. For instance, Amansara, in Cambodia, was the former guest villa of the country’s King Sihanouk.

Many Aman hotels don’t have a signed entrance, making them challenging to find. They rarely, if ever, have a lobby, bellboys, or a front desk. Founded by Indonesian native Adrian Zecha in 1988, Aman now has dozens of boutique properties around the world. Each prides itself on intrinsic beauty and stellar, almost invisible service.

Amangiri is hidden in plain sight

Amangiri, one of only three Aman properties in the continental US, is impossible to spot when viewed from above. In fact, it’s also impossible to spot when you are driving. With about 600 acres, it nestles beautifully into the desert landscape. The colors mirror the dusty terrain. Low, flat rooftops quietly conceal the beauty that lies beneath. It’s beautiful from the inside out. Every detail has been thoughtfully decided upon, whether natural or manmade.

Bring the outside in at Amangiri

Our suite was spacious, strikingly monochromatic, and naturally lit by expansive picture windows. Rooms are mountain-facing so that not a single golden drop of sun is missed throughout the day. The contrast of the warm glow that hovered and then completely dropped out of sight was something to look forward to each evening. With a glass of wine, we had front-row seats for every performance.

Rooms and suites are as natural as the outdoors itself. Stone, wood, and clay describe both the mellow color palette as well as the raw materials. The beds float mid-room, facing the windows so that there is no escape from the elements.

The outside patio had a small fire table to take the chill off the slightly cool summer nights while we enjoyed sunset cocktails. Nearby, a straw hat and parasol were on hand to shield the all-day rays, a hand-carved walking stick for hikes, and state-of-the-art binoculars. Amangiri, you thought of everything. Details rule.

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Amangiri’s Panoramic vistas

The Dining Room and Great Room at Amangiri are open-plan layouts with panoramic windows that essentially double as a permanent and ever-changing art exhibit. As we walked around the common spaces, we took note of local handicrafts, such as geometric-designed hand-woven baskets and pottery.

As ever, coming back to the resort after an invigorating day immersed in nature felt decadent, and our relaxing time ahead felt well-deserved. Four fireplaces with comfortable lounge-like seating were welcoming spots to cozy up with a pre-dinner drink. A floor-to-ceiling walnut wine cellar that would make any wine aficionado swoon was another fun place to explore.

The cuisine at Amangiri, given its geographic location, is influenced by Native Americans. Interesting flavor combinations, such as Shrimp and Mesquite Smoked Grits accompanied by Cholla Cactus Bud, caught my eye. We experimented with new dishes and flavors daily, and the jovial bartender created cocktails to match our choices.

A large telescope beckoned us from the Great Room’s expansive windows so we could get as up close and personal with the terrain as we wanted. I imagined wildlife roaming in the distance, the owls burrowing in the rocks, and the critters scuttling quickly across the desert floor.

The ABCs of Amangiri: Adventures, Buttes, and Champagne

Amangiri’s proximity to Lake Powell and Antelope Canyon is a significant draw, as they are a launch point for so many interesting adventures. One could easily spend a week and not begin to exhaust the excursions available: hiking the red rocks, crossing the challenging Via Ferrata, and climbing into the slot canyons, to name a few. There is also hot air ballooning, kayaking, and horseback riding—a playground for the adventure junkie and photographer alike.

The innate beauty in this part of Utah conjures up the image of peeling back layers from an onion. Beyond the thick outer layers—climbing and hiking—are the super thin ones, like discovering owls nesting in the nook of a rock or noticing the subtle difference in colors of the earth beneath our feet. Those delicate layers, the tiny details, can go on indefinitely here—the corner of the country where Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah intersect.

One afternoon, we boarded a helicopter to see the desert from above and landed atop a nearby butte. Our pilot set up a table and chairs for us to soak up the surroundings over a bottle of chilled champagne. Blue and gold, opposites in the world of color, created a striking scene from our elevated position.

As the sun began to set, we flew over the Glen Canyon Dam and Horseshoe Bend—its iconic shape giving credence to its name. One highlight among many highlights of the trip.

Amangiri and Utah’s Slot Canyons

It is said that Utah has the most slot canyons of anywhere in the world, and the draw of hiking into these colorful, sunlit, narrow gorges was a large part of why Utah became our destination of choice.

Our guide was a young, local Native American man who led us up, over, and around the rock formations and taught us about the layered sedimentary deposits. At various points, we had to scramble on our hands and knees and suck in our bellies to access the famous slots.

To say that the colors and striations of the canyons cannot be captured on film is an understatement. A sliver, a piece, or a glimpse can be caught, but to illustrate it in its entirety was impossible, at least by me.

At certain times of day, the sun dived deep into the slots, saturating them and creating luminescent hues. The rock walls appeared fluid. We crawled through passageways in the formations, watching the colors that ranged from cadmium orange and burnt orange to cayenne red, persimmon, and then a rich, moody purple. Other times, looking through the crevices gave the illusion of an orb of fire rather than permanent rock. The once fiery walls smoldered as the sun shifted, turning smoky and dark.

Amangiri and Lake Powell

A man-made reservoir rather than a lake, Lake Powell added yet a different layer of adventure to our desert holiday. The following morning, we hired a captain and a boat and spent the day wake-surfing, waterskiing, and swimming in Lake Powell’s crips waters. We marveled at the impressive and incredibly steep canyon walls and noted the distinct colored patterns that centuries of ever-changing water levels had etched into the earth.

Craggy and textured mountains surrounded the lake, vibrantly juxtaposed against the cerulean blue sky. Distant buttes dotted the barren landscape; their iconic flat tops cut a unique silhouette. With the water so clear and brilliant, Lake Powell is understandably a favorite destination for houseboats and day trippers. Yet, it didn’t feel busy. In fact, there were moments we were so alone, I felt I had traveled back to prehistoric times.

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Amangiri’s 180 million-year-old rock is a showstopper

After a morning of squeezing through canyons and tackling the dry desert heat, it was a gift to return to the resort and know that we didn’t have to leave the property for any reason for the remainder of the day. As Google had promised in my research, the pool setting at Amangiri was said to be nothing short of awesome. I was excited to fact-check.

Hands down, the most defining element of Amangiri is its enormous ancient boulder. It has been said that Mr. Zecha used this rock as the centerpiece of the resort’s design and spent years trying to secure the site, as it was initially nationally owned land. One could argue that it is the oldest piece of original art on the property.

In a feat of design that would make any landscape architect drool, a glorious pool surrounds the boulder. Each platform lounger, with oversized white umbrellas, slices into the pool’s edge, which creates the illusion of personal space. Some days, we felt like we were the only guests there. However, one afternoon, Tom Hanks and his family showed up poolside, and we all did our best to pretend we didn’t recognize him. But even with eyes closed, Tom Hank’s voice is impossible to mistake.

Invisible service at Amangiri

As mentioned earlier, Aman prides itself on nearly invisible service. At Amangiri, they took that sentiment a bit too far, and sometimes, we couldn’t find anyone! This was most apparent at the pool when ordering a drink or a bottle of water and then later at cocktails. (Although, it didn’t seem like the Hanks family had similar issues.) However, when we did find a server, they couldn’t have been more friendly or helpful.

In Aman’s defense, it may be hard, in such a quiet, remote part of Utah, to find the level of service they can more easily find at other properties. Nonetheless, I would head back to Amangiri in a heartbeat and forgo any level of service for the views.

Amangiri means Peaceful Mountain

Amangiri is a feat of form and function. Geometric lines nestle so unobtrusively into the earth—not making much of a ripple from an architectural point of view. There is a reason that Amangiri has been written about endlessly in travel magazines and is often cited as one of the best hotel settings in the country. The pool is considered one of the most beautiful in the world, thanks to Mr. Zecha’s vision.

A few years ago, Aman revealed a sister property to Amangiri called Camp Sarika. It’s a private enclave of ten canvas-topped pavilions, each with a private plunge pool, set within 600 acres of the property. Aman calls it a back-to-the-wild experience. They call it a meditative sanctuary. Whatever they call it, it’s now at the top of my wish list.

In Arabic, Amangiri is defined as ‘Peaceful Mountain’. It’s hard to imagine a more fitting name in this stunning part of the United States. When I think back to that long-ago dinner party in Tokyo, now I’m the one smiling. Wherever you are, Fang, thank you.

Amangiri is just a click away. Check here for availability.

November 11, 2022
Blackberry Mountain Is Sensational

Tucked up in the Smoky Mountains of Tennessee. Blackberry Mountain sets a high bar by combining unique adventures and holistic wellness activities. And, it takes adventures even further with locally sourced food, and the comforts of home. This post describes how Blackberry Mountain entices each of the senses, in completely unexpected ways.

This is Blackberry Mountain

Big Double Shelter is a wide, wooden deck at the end of Big Double Trail. The treetops in the distance look freshly painted. Brushstrokes of oily red, orange, and yellow skim the uppermost leaves.

The result is an undulating wave of late autumn color. Big Double Shelter hovers above pine trees adorned with clusters of prickly pinecones jut precariously over a deep ravine. We are the only hikers out this brisk November morning. The silence is deafening.

THUMP.

“Uh oh,” my friend says, “there goes the walkie-talkie”.

I peer over the edge. But she’s already scrambling down the steep slope to recover it from the forest floor. I think to myself, this is the part of the film when things begin to go horribly wrong.

What’s to fear? It’s not as if there are black bears roaming the Smoky Mountains in late November. Or, that the walkie-talkie is our sole connection to the lodge? Alerting the front desk of our hiking route, as recommended, is no longer unimportant.

We’d brought only a 4 oz bottle of water between us because we want to travel ‘light’. And, perhaps I’m not the confident map reader I pretend to be. Is the sky starting to turn an ominous gray? Is the wind picking up? Why do I feel suddenly parched? Curse you, my overactive imagination.

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At Blackberry Mountain, adventure and luxury overlap

If this mini-adventure appears to be threaded with fear, it is fleeting. In this case, the ‘Girls’ Weekend Gone Wrong’ thriller would have to wait, as our hike had an uneventful ending. My friend recovered the slippery walkie-talkie, the skies reverted to cerulean blue, the wind abated, and the water sufficed. The only evidence of bear was an ambiguous claw scrape in the dirt.

Blackberry Mountain, a luxury/adventure lodge in Walland, Tennessee, is as eventful or uneventful as one wants it to be. The property’s sweet spot is best illustrated between the layers. Layers as thick and interesting as the Smoky Mountains themselves.

Blackberry Mountain, in brief

The Beall family started Blackberry Farm as a six-room country inn in the mid-70s. Over the years it has grown and gained worldwide attention in the hospitality sphere. In 2018, the Beall family opened a sister property, Blackberry Mountain. Blackberry Mountain covers eight miles of protected ridge line over 5200 acres. Almost half of which is dedicated to land conservation. Not to overdramatize, but it’s spectacular.

The Watchman Cabins

Ramshackle, Cripple Creek, Crackling Hen, and Old Smoky. Welcome to the watchman cabins. A six-of-a-kind collection that lines the top ridge of the property. Each cabin comes with its own personalized golf cart so getting around the property is never an issue. Our cabin is Ramshackle, set just across from the forest-enclosed, infinity-edged, hot tub. No golf cart is needed.

Outside, the smell of new wood-burning wafts from the neighboring cabins. And the fresh scent of morning dew is ever more noticeable after the night’s heavy downpour.

The cabins are rustic-chic. For instance, Ramshackle has layers of wooden beamed walls, and wide, wood-planked floors. Additionally, there’s a wood-burning stove and a free-standing deep soaking tub to complete the comfy, cozy setting. Endless little luxuries are sprinkled throughout the cabin.

Amenity Overload

As an example, Aesop toiletries sit at the edge of the deep, stand-alone tub. A Nespresso maker and assorted teas are on hand for a morning caffeine fix. And, remote-controlled roller shades reveal the lofty view from floor-to-ceiling windows. Amenities, galore.

Additionally, brass binoculars (for bird or bear viewing) are set atop the iron stove. Also, there is a basket of firewood ready to take the chill from the cool evening air. Thick, wool, blankets drape the chairs, begging to be worn. So, that regardless of the outside temperature, we could still enjoy views from the deck.

The trees in front of Ramshackle’s picture window are stark, having already lost most of their leaves. Spindly branches overlap one another, an inky contrast against the morning’s milky fog.

7am. I’m not a morning person. But, I try to keep my eyes open long enough to witness the mist rise beyond the windows. I want to watch the sun break through to reveal the patches of farmland below. Watercolor hues of overlapping blues shape the mountains. Steel blue, gray-blue, periwinkle, cornflower, and as expected, smoky blue. I don’t even have to leave my bed. If there is ever a place to have cabin fever, this is it.

Naturally, views trump everything at Blackberry Mountain. And none are more intoxicating than from the hilltop Watchman Cabins.

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THREE SISTERS, AND A FIRETOWER RULE OVER BLACKBERRY MOUNTAIN

There are two restaurants at Blackberry Mountain: Firetower and Three Sisters. Firetower is aptly named. It sits at the base of a restored 1950s fire tower that guests can climb for sweeping views. The restaurant is an uphill stone’s throw from our cabin and is where we enjoyed many of our best meals. Three Sisters is a slightly more formal dining experience at the main lodge. We divided our meals between both—always in fear of missing out on something the chefs were inventing. Foodie FOMO, it’s real.

In an effort to try every dish on the menus, we shared everything. My friend has been a vegan for 20 years. I decided to become one for three days. I was curious if my tastebuds would forgive me. If I was making too big a culinary sacrifice. My fears were unwarranted.

Breakfasts and dinners are included in the room rate at Blackberry Mountain, which made being experimental easy. The chefs are more than happy to split the meals so that guests can try everything. In one case, we couldn’t decide on which two of the three main courses to share. Our waitress surprised us by bringing all three.

The chefs and waitstaff were as excited and eager for us to sample the entire menu as we were. It is just that type of ‘above and beyond’ service that shows up in every facet of Blackberry Mountain. No ask was too much trouble. Ever.

Executive Orders

The executive chefs, Joel Werner, of Firetower, and Joey Edwards, of Three Sisters, both create extraordinary multi-course and multi-dimensional meals. The dishes have layers of colors and textures—as interesting visually as culinarily.

Fresh, foraged mushrooms sit atop a crusty flatbread with piles of herbs and garlic. A warm grain bowl explodes in flavors as bold as its colors, a brushstroke of cashew butter at its base. At breakfast, sweet potato hash is sprinkled with crispy rice on a thinly-sliced avocado.

Each dish is an unpretentious work of art; confident, simple, and purposeful. I made no sacrifices being a part-time vegan. Although I did allow myself one diversion, as I couldn’t pass up the wagyu beef entree at Three Sisters.

With chefs like this cooking for me each day, I could easily imagine life as a vegan. At least a part-time vegan.

Pretentious Glass, a Blackberry Mountain exclusive

Speaking of unpretentious works of art, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the decanter. In fact, I could write an entire post about the decanter. Matthew Cummings, owner, founder, and glassblower-in-chief of Pretentious Glass spent years cultivating a relationship with Blackberry Mountain. He now creates exclusive pieces of glassware for them. A fine art sculptor turned commercial artist, Cummings’ creations in glass are a modern, festive, take on classic styles.

His decanter is a carnival of glass. Wide and round with long, whimsical ribbons that stretch from bottom to top. It begged us to choose a wine worthy of it. As a side note, I’m angling to buy one. But I’m told they’re not yet for sale. Yet, I will keep inquiring. Matthew, are you listening?

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BATHED IN SOUND AND LIGHT AT BLACKBERRY MOUNTAIN

Perhaps, the highlight of the getaway is one that I hadn’t anticipated. I was prepared to love the food, the atmosphere, the lodge, and the lodging. I had seen photos, heard stories from friends, and read about the chefs and food. Blackberry Mountain is not an inexpensive undertaking, so a certain level of expectation was inherent. However, the sound bath experience was unexpectedly transporting.

That blustery morning we meet our master of ceremonies. Chris introduces us to the ritual of sound bathing with his warm, lulling voice. The room has high ceilings and is drenched in champagne light. Chris is surrounded by a multitude of instruments; gongs, rainmakers, and chimes, among them. Next, all six guests form a wide semi-circle on the floor with our yoga mats. Lastly, we drape ourselves in soft blankets and placed lightly-scented lavender cloths over our eyes. This is already amazing.

Gongs, Chimes, and Rain

The senses in my body awaken and are warmed from the inside out. I melt into the sounds. The gongs overlap the chimes. Then, the chimes overlap the rainmaker, which sounds like waves crashing onto a beach. First softly, then gaining power, before receding again. I fall asleep, I think. Then awaken to tuning forks in G major, chants, and a few unnameable sounds. The vibrations of those sounds lift and settle within me as I drift in and out of a dream-like state.

All too soon, Chris asks us to sit up. I reluctantly follow orders. The gauzy roller shades are raised, the curtains are drawn. Had I even noticed them earlier? I find myself facing purple mountains— the start of sunset. The ridge is razor sharp, and pink and orange hues are just beginning to appear behind it. I smile. Then wonder when I can do it all over again.

Time’s Up

We attempted a leisurely pace throughout our three days at Blackberry Mountain. We were aiming to find the right balance of chill time and activities. There is much we left undone, which is all the fuel I needed to plan a future trip.

On our final afternoon, a layer of dark clouds descends over the tree line. As if to remind us that it’s time to go. The wind whips in gusts and rattles the stark branches. Not surprisingly, it is still incredibly scenic. But, our time is up.

Blackberry Mountain alighted my senses. It reminded me to admire beauty in the ordinary. Like trees, birdsong, and morning mist. Yet, it had the understated comforts of home but felt extraordinarily luxurious.

It is a hideaway that sparks creativity, calm, and restorativeness. And, it is just what I needed at this moment in my life. To feel snug and secure somewhere outside of my own home.

Whatever it is—the food, the cabins, the hospitality, the treatments, or the adventurous hikes. It is an escape from the familiar. And, who doesn’t sometimes need just that?

Next hike, though, I will take more water.

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October 6, 2022
The Claremont Hotel is Acadia National Park’s Hidden Gem

The Claremont Hotel and Acadia National Park are a Maine tour de force. The recently redesigned Claremont Hotel has upped the ante on guest experiences in an unparalleled setting. So, if a glass of wine on a wraparound porch facing sunset-tinged mountains excites you, look no further than The Claremont Hotel. And, if hiking mountains to 360-degree panoramic vistas excites you, look no further than Acadia National Park. Read on to discover why The Claremont Hotel, just outside Acadia National Park, is a waterside gem.

Acadia National Park is a national treasure. After decades of overlooking beauty in my own backyard, I discover our national parks. Is it weird that my discovery overlaps Obama’s Netflix series, Our Great National Parks? Or can we all agree that he and I are kindred spirits? “Yes, we can!”

In the summer of 2020, when our overseas travel plans were so rudely interrupted, we decided to visit Utah’s Canyonlands and Arches National Parks. These desert parks were so deserted that I had no one to ask, ‘Where are you from?’. Or, ‘What brings you here?’. Questions all but guaranteed to embarrass my kids and husband.

Arches and Canyonlands encouraged us to fall back in love—with the USA.

So when a friend asked if I could join her on a girl’s trip, complete with a stay at The Claremont Hotel, including daily adventures to Bar Harbor, Mount Desert Island, and Acadia National Park, I didn’t hesitate to say, “Yes! Yes, I can!”

The Claremont Hotel + Acadia = Adventure + Luxury

Finding the optimal balance between adventure and luxury on a holiday is personal math. Some seek a 75/25 or 60/40 balance between the two. I strive for 50/50. Hmmm, does that sound like I’m satisfied with 50% of each? I’d like 100% each. So, I’m striving for a 100/100 balance. Is that even a thing? I hate math. You get the point.

The Claremont Hotel on Mount Desert Island is the consummate compliment to an adventure in Maine’s Acadia National Park. My sought-after 100/100. Unfortunately, I can’t take credit for finding this waterside escape on the edge of Somes Sound. What I can do is pass it along with reasons why it makes a heavenly home base for an Acadia National Park trip.

For me, passing on nuggets of inspiration so that others may enjoy it is what travel is all about. That’s certainly why this website exists. It’s no fun being the only one to know about a sensational travel destination like Acadia National Park or a hot place like the Claremont Hotel. Well, sometimes it’s fun. As long as I get there first.

The Claremont Hotel, first impressions

Our car weaves up and around rolling hills and through scenic towns like Bar Harbor. I see Mount Desert Island in the distance. I see handcrafted signs that cheer, ‘Welcome To Maine! The Way Life Should Be!’ I’ll be the judge of that, I think cynically.

When we pull into The Claremont Hotel’s long driveway I can’t help but take a moment’s pause. A soft landing for my eyes and ears. In front of me stands a grand, lily-white, three-story home set against a cornflower blue sky. I hear the lulling melody of seagulls overhead.

Fuchsia geraniums and forest green ivy cascade over window boxes. A carpet of short, manicured grass lead my gaze toward the mirror-calm sound. Mountains rise majestically in the distance. I pause a little longer, resisting the urge to snap, tag, and post.

I feel like I’m home. I’ve yet to step onto the full wraparound porch or into the Claremont Hotel itself. I’ve been here less than five minutes and I’m already disappointed I’ll eventually have to leave. I know a treasure when I see one.

The Claremont Hotel, The Captain’s Choice

The Claremont Hotel is a historic and impeccably maintained six-acre property on Southwest Harbor, near Acadia National Park. It was built as a summer destination for wealthy families to escape the oppressive summer heat of the northeast. Its location near Bar Harbor was hand-picked by a retired sea captain named Jesse Pease. Capt. Jesse knew a treasure when he saw one, too.

Built in 1883, the Claremont Hotel was family-run until 1908 when it was sold to a local doctor. In 2020, it was bought by hospitality guru and real estate developer, Tim Harrington. Mr. Harrington is also the man behind other magnificent Maine properties like Hidden Pond and Tides Beach Club.

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The Claremont Hotel: Sights and Scents

Upon entering the hotel, I first notice a tall, white ceramic dog sitting regally on a window ledge. Instead of facing inwards toward the room, this stoic Doberman is facing out, admiring the lavish grounds, just like me.

The next thing I notice isn’t visible. It’s sandalwood—the Claremont Hotel’s signature scent. Signature scents are all the rage these days. I saunter past the Doberman, knowing full well I’m being lured into the gift shop against my will. Now, every time I enter my living room in DC I’m reminded that I’m no longer at the beautiful Claremont Hotel. Pavlov’s theory was no joke.

The Claremont Hotel’s main house has common spaces that ignite my love of interior design and all things pretty. To say I swoon is an understatement. Patterns I’d expect to clash, instead harmonize. Palettes that I’ve always disliked, I suddenly love. Sister Parish paper wraps the walls. It’s textile nirvana—as if the DC Design Center exploded and thousands of colorful fabric samples were forced to find new soul mates.

Each piece of furniture feels collected rather than bought. Every coffee table book appears well-read and well-loved. The room has an ever-burning fireplace and a games table where I spy guests actually gaming. And I don’t mean Xbox. It’s so accommodating and peaceful, that I’m tempted to sink into a chair and stay there indefinitely.

But I don’t. There’s so much to explore both indoors and out at The Claremont Hotel. I only have three days. Time is of the essence.

The Claremont Hotel: A room, cottage, or house, with a view

I’d normally gravitate towards a cottage or house when at a property like the Claremont Hotel. But I wouldn’t have traded my intimate and bright guest room in the main house of this gorgeous Acadia hotel for any other that week. This being a girls’ trip, I have a room to myself—a rare event, indeed. I don’t take it for granted.

The main house has three and a half floors and 24 guest rooms. The rooms facing the front of the Claremont Hotel have the before-mentioned window boxes. The rooms facing Somes sound receive the morning sun. Beds have piles of cushy pillows propped up against William Morris fabric-covered headboards. Fabric-covered headboards are propped up against patterned-covered walls. Patterns rule at The Claremont. I’m tempted to stay in my room all day to admire them.

But I don’t. Acadia National Park is calling. And my friend is antsy to get going. She’s a very fast walker. The last time we hiked together was in Uganda tracking the Silverback Gorillas. I’m hoping she slows her pace this time. These views don’t weigh 600 lbs and move.

Acadia calls

Lest I forget the reason for our trip—three days of taxing trails, peaks, and panoramas in Acadia National Park. At nearly 50,000 acres, the park includes natural coastlines with rocky headlands, exposed granite rock faces, and U-shaped valleys. It has biodiverse wetlands, stone beaches, and pine forests. Pretty impressive stats, Acadia. I’m putting on my hiking boots now. Be patient!

Acadia National Park is home to Cadillac Mountain, the tallest mountain on America’s eastern seaboard. Tack on 158 miles of hiking trails, 27 miles of motorized roads, and 45 miles of pedestrian-only carriage roads, and I easily calculate, (even with my miserable math skills), that I don’t have enough time here.

Built between 1913 and 1940, the historic carriage road network was a gift from philanthropist and oil tycoon John D. Rockefeller. Sixteen low-arched granite bridges connect the pebble-lined paths. Mr. Rockefeller, an avid horseman, was adamant the park be non-motorized. I hope his horses appreciated the gesture.

Off-Season Rules

We visit Maine in mid-May, which is considered off-season. My friend warns us that Mother Nature isn’t always kind to Maine in May and tells us to prepare for cold and rain. Ever the rule follower, I do just that, despite the weather forecast that continues to predict sunnier and warmer climes than the destination I’m coming from.

Over the next three days, I’m ridiculed for my over-preparedness. Go ahead and laugh. Had we gotten lost, I would have been the only one with a baggie of trail mix and a Stroopwafel.

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The Ladders and Loops of Acadia National Park

This brings me to our Acadia park hikes. As advertised, the 3.3-mile Ladder Trail Loop that leads to the summit of Dorr Mountain includes a series of ladders to help scale the rock faces. I liken the Ladder Trail to an open-air StairMaster.

Any part of the trail that is not a ladder is a steep granite step. I curse the person who made these steps. I curse the person who invented ladders. My quads curse me. But then we get to the summit and all is forgiven.

The following morning, we tackle St. Saveur and Acadia Mountains. A 3.9-mile loop with two glorious mountain peaks. The trail meanders around lichen and moss-covered boulders. Gnarled, ancient tree trunks appear rooted in the rocks themselves.

The pines have clusters of lavender buds against green needles. Wild purple Rhodora emerges en masse and frames the distant views. Little kelly green ferns unfurl. Later, I recognize these very colors sewn into the fabrics at The Claremont. Mother Nature’s palette never disappoints.

The trail takes us above the conifer tree line for a rewarding water-filled view. More than once we get turned around and retrace our steps to find the trail markers. No one mentions my stash of Stroopwafels, but I know they are jealous.

Stop and smell the blueberries

Maine may be known for blueberries, but in mid-May, we are out of luck. I’m willing to sacrifice the plump blueberries to the bears in order to have the trails to ourselves.

Acadia National Park, however, thrives in ways well beyond flowering and fruiting shrubs. Evergreen pitch pines and colorful native woodland flora abound. At the water’s edge, I peer into mini eco-systems living within the tidal pools. While we don’t see much wildlife, I’m told there are otters, deer, red foxes, and of course, bears, if you look hard enough.

The Claremont Hotel: Porchin’

We survive the hike, the ladders, the granite StairMaster, and the bears. Time to bask in our accomplishments. Back at the Claremont Hotel, a hot shower beckons, followed by a front-row seat on an evergreen rattan porch rocker with a glass of wine. The rest of my day will be rosé-tinted and food-centric.

The porch. It’s undoubtedly the best outdoor spot at The Claremont Hotel. In the foreground, there is a welcoming heated pool, with pink and white striped umbrellas that summon up scenes from Dirty Dancing. (Ugh. I forgot to avoid all cultural references that reveal my age.)

The pool is surrounded by an intricate pattern of lattice-cut grass. At the Claremont Hotel, even the lawn has patterns. In the distance, there are mountains to daydream about climbing. On the porch, there are green blankets in a basket to take the edge off the crisp air. I savor the soothing built-in beauty of the hotel while reflecting on our day. I reflect on Patrick Swayze. My 100/100 balance of luxury and adventure is realized.

Meet Harry and Fern

I’d be remiss if I didn’t introduce Harry and Fern. Two ways to enjoy dining and drinking at the Claremont Hotel. What a coincidence that these happen to be my two favorite post-hike activities.

The Claremont Hotel’s main restaurant, Little Fern, isn’t little, but somehow still feels cozy. Kudos to the interior design team for the homey touches. Built-in bookcases, a fireplace, soft banquettes, an entire wall of windows, and a large bar that has us making friends at first sip.

I order a cocktail that matches the ever-present hot pink geraniums. I’m nothing if not matchy-matchy. Ask anyone. Even my dogs match.

The food is good, although the portions are too large, even for hungry post-hikers like us. My risotto entrée could have fed the city of Milan. By the next night, we decide to share, which is more fun anyway. Perfetto!

The Claremont Hotels’ clubby, chummy Harry’s Bar is the kind of place to snuggle into with a tumbler of bourbon at an antique chessboard. I don’t drink bourbon or play chess, but Harry’s Bar makes me feel like I should. I imagine Harry’s is best visited on nights when the porch is too cold, but that said, I’d be hard-pressed to pass up having a drink there despite the weather.

Swarthy sea captains peer down on us from oil paintings above. I hope Cpt. Jesse doesn’t mind the bar is named after some yahoo named Harry.

A fine balance

I do the math again and get the same outcome. The combo of The Claremont Hotel and a visit to Acadia National Park strikes an ideal balance between luxury and adventure. You need not be an artist, designer, or photographer to appreciate the natural beauty of both. The colors rooted in Acadia and Mount Desert Island are mirrored at the Claremont—gem tones like emeralds, sapphires, and pink tourmaline abound.

A national treasure is defined as ‘something that is greatly valued by the people of a country.’ With its all-encompassing natural beauty, Acadia National Park certainly fits the definition. Combine Acadia National Park with a stay at the Claremont Hotel and they become a treasured pair. “Maine! The way life should be!” Can we agree on that, Barack?

“Yes, we can!”

Click here to read more reviews of the Claremont Hotel!

June 23, 2022
5 Top 5 Travel Wish Lists: Where To Go Right Now

I’m at Black Coffee, sitting on a cushy, green leather banquette—my usual spot. On my right are two well-heeled Washingtonians talking about Koks, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in, wait for it—the Faroe Islands. I can’t contain my excitement! I know Koks–it’s on my travel wish list! How in the world do they know about Koks? I’m dying to ask. Then reconsider.

That would be weird.

My excitement manifests physically. It’s like I’ve had six espresso shots in as many minutes. I’m quite literally bouncing off the banquette. The women leave rather suddenly. I wonder if my bouncing has something to do with it.

What’s the point?

Let me back up a few hours—to 8am in my kitchen. I settle into a swivel chair with an oat milk cappuccino. I swirl, twirl, and sip while playing Worlde, Quordle, and Spelling Bee. This perky combination of caffeine and wordplay ignites my brain on even the dreariest DC mornings.

That the outcome of these games determines my mood is an overstatement. But I’d be lying if I said the days I get Wordle-in-two doesn’t feel good. Combine that with ‘genius’ status on Spelling Bee and a winning Quordle, and it’s the trifecta of morning happiness. Sometimes I go right back to bed, exhausted from having overachieved so early in the day.

I’ve devoted a paragraph to my New York Times-centric morning routine for good reason. ‘Geez, get to the point already!’, you’re thinking. The point is, while most mornings are uneventful and dominated by a trio of silly brainteasers, some days I overhear a pair of chatty women in a coffee shop, and my brain kicks into overdrive.

Travel talk gives me a jolt as powerful as those six shots of espresso. It fuels me in a way that can only be described in multiple coffee-related metaphors. As illustrated by my encounter at Black Coffee, being a participant in the conversation is irrelevant.

Travel Wish Lists

My travel wish list has been curated from multiple trustworthy sources. Sources like Condé Nast Traveler’s ‘Gold List’, Travel+Leisure’s ‘It List’, Forbes Travel Guide’s Star Award Winners, and San Pellegrino’s ‘World’s Best List’. And increasingly more often from the most-addictive travel resource ever—Instagram. My wish list is always at hand, by which I mean is on my phone, which is always in my hand.

‘But, where to begin?’ My travel wish list is a lengthy, unorganized account of hotels, lodges, countries, cities, ranches, and restaurants. An inventory of adventures, experiences, and expeditions. Describing them all would far exceed my typical 2500-word count.

I pause to think. (This pause lasts a week). My brain, only moments ago on a Quorldle high, is now creatively stuck. I’m swimming in mental cement.

Aha! I’ll list my top five travel wish lists. Not only will it be entertaining to write, but it will also force me to organize this ongoing, unsystematic list that has been vexing me for years.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Wish List v. Lust List

Years ago, I created an entry in my ‘Notes’ app called, ‘Travel Lust’. For the sake of SEO, I’m renaming it Travel Wish List. If you think the words Travel Wish List are being overused already, it’s not by accident. Anyone who’s had experience with Search Engine Optimization will understand why. And, I certainly don’t want this post to rank for ‘lust’. That’s someone else’s blog, I mean, website.

My top five travel wish lists in five categories follow. Hotels and Resorts, Lodges and Retreats, Experiences, Countries, and Culinary Adventures. One winner and four other winners per category. There are no losers, it’s a wish list remember.

This is going to be fun, and possibly very expensive—for all of us.

Want all 5 wish lists in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

PC: Hotel Esencia

My Travel Wish List: 5 / Hotels and Resorts

Wish List Winner: Hotel Esencia, Xpu-Ha, Mexico

Last month, a friend sent me an article about Hotel Esencia, in Mexico. After reading it, I sent it to my husband Daniel, explaining my deep need to go there. He now deeply dislikes her.

This happens often, much to my husband’s chagrin. Many of these seemingly harmless emails turn into future three-night, non-refundable deposits. My list is longer than I have time or money to accomplish. But please, keep sending. Daniel will need to postpone retirement for a few more years. I’m sure he’s ok with that.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Esencia sky-rocketed to the top of my travel wish list. Conceptualized by a Hollywood producer and entrepreneur, the hotel’s 45 rooms and suites, and three uber-sophisticated villas were once the private hideaway of Italian duchess, Rosa de Ferrari. Lucky duchess.

Quiet, unassuming, and refined luxury abounds. Located between Tulum and Cancún, Esencia’s home-away-from-home vibe is intentional (that is, if your home is beachside, flanked by jungles, and includes sea turtle nesting grounds).

Morning treats are delivered to rooms through secret cubby holes. That’s pretty irresistible. I imagine enjoying warm brioches and flaky croissants while lounging in my pjs. The bold, bright tropical decor adds to the hotel’s glamour. It reminds me of Mondrian, the Dutch painter who rejected perceived reality and stripped form down to its most basic elements. Esencia’s palette is a refreshing change from most Mexican resorts which rely heavily on traditional colors and rustic furnishings.

The yoga loft is insta-perfect, with ecru, crocheted hammocks hanging below an open-air wooden platform. My savasana would surely last hours, which would put me at risk of missing afternoon cocktails. I’d best leave the chaturangas to Daniel.

PC: Hotel Esencia

USP (Unique Selling Point):

Esencia’s two-story, Rooftop Wellness Suite is the ultimate in modern Mayan jungle luxury. With a full-sized pool, multiple terraces, and a private fitness studio (including a Peloton bike and The Mirror), I see no compelling reason to leave it. As an aside, I see no compelling reason for a private fitness studio, either. I’m on holiday. I’ll punish myself with The Mirror when I get home, thank you.

This premiere suite acts as a ‘hotel within a hotel’ at this sweeping 50-acre estate. So, if you’d like to go on a resort holiday without having to see another soul, Hotel Esencia is the place for you. It’s most definitely the place for me.

PC: Hotel Esencia

Note: August 26, 2022. As I place the finishing touches on this post, Forbes Travel Guide has just announced today that Hotel Esencia earned its coveted five-star award for 2022. Well deserved Esencia, but now I’ll never be able to get a reservation. (See how I’m able to be both topical and tropical at the same time here?)

Four other winners:

Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur, California

Hacienda AltaGracia, Costa Rica

San Domenico Palace, Taormina, Italy

One&Only Moonlight Basin, Montana (Opening 2024)

Why did these make the list?

Each of these hotels and brands is not only top of its class in terms of service and accommodations but also takes style and artistry to innovative levels.

Swoon over the organic architecture and natural coastal beauty at Post Ranch Inn. Spot the elusive Quetzal in Costa Rica at Hacienda AltaGracia. Prepare to get lost in the Montana wilderness, at One&Only’s first US-based resort. The Four Seasons’ San Domenico Palace in Italy is a restored 14th-century convent with views of Mount Etna. Enough said.

Click the links at your own risk. Yes, they are expensive. Whoever said, ‘you can’t take it with you,’ is my soul mate.

PC: Islas Secas

My Travel Wish List: 4 / Lodges and Retreats

Wish List Winner: Islas Secas, Panama

I’m reluctant to write about Islas Secas. I don’t want you to know about it. Yes, that’s how selfish I am. That I’d rather not write about a hot, new destination for fear that you get there before I do is indefensible.

I’d like to go to Panama before every else has it on their radar. Ten years ago we told friends we were headed to Costa Rica. We may as well have said we were taking the kids to North Korea on a beach holiday. Look at Costa Rica now—the epicenter of spring break family travel.

As is evident by its name, Islas Secas is an island. An archipelago, to be more clear, comprised of 14 volcanic islands off the Pacific coast of the country. With iconographic names like Isla Barracuda, Isla Iguana, and Isla Coco, I imagine days snorkeling beside shiny, snake-like fish, photographing colorful reptiles, and drinking from oversized coconuts. Over-caffeinated yet again, my imagination runs wild.

Panamanian design is everywhere; light, breezy tactile fabrics, plantation shutters, and thatched rooftops. The four-bedroom Casita Grande looks especially captivating. I daydream about a milestone birthday there. It could be mine, a friend’s, or a neighbor’s. I’m not going to be picky.

PC: Islas Secas

USP:

The website affirms Islas Secas’ devotion to sustainable and nature-driven tourism. It tempts me with stats like 750 species of fish, 80 species of birds, and humpback whale-watching.

When I read the website, I almost can’t bear it. I bounce again, the universal sign for overexcitement.

I think you should go. And I think you should take me with you.

Four other winners:

Taylor River Lodge, Colorado

Bishop’s Lodge, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Kachi Lodge, Bolivia

Mashpi Lodge, Ecuador

Why did these make the list?

It’s a secret to no one who keeps up with luxury and adventure retreats that these four make the list. Known for tailor-made, one-of-a-kind experiences, Eleven Experience owns 13 remote properties around the world. Its Colorado-based Taylor River Lodge was once a local fishing and tackle shop before it became an off-the-grid, eight-cabin river retreat.

Auberge-owned Bishop’s Lodge in Santa Fe embraces the rich mountain colors of New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo range. Each room, with woven Navajo rugs and textiles, is a sanctuary unto its own.

Kachi or Mashpi? Both/and, please. This duo of South American lodges is equally breathtaking. Mashpi Lodge is set deep in the Chocó-Andean Cloud Forest. No, I didn’t make that up. Conversely, Kachi Lodge sits at the foot of the Tunupa Volcano, and atop Bolivia’s famed Uyuni Salt Flats. Cloud Forest or Salt Flat? How to choose? I’ll repeat. Both/and.

Want all 5 winners in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

My Travel Wish List: 3 / Travel Experiences

Wish List Winner: Explore the Galápagos Islands via Pikaia Lodge

I must have a thing for archipelagos because here I am adding yet another to my list. Archipelagos are obviously all the rage.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

One thousand kilometers off of the Ecuadorian coast lies 19 islands of marine wonders—the Galápagos Islands. They are often referred to as a ‘unique living museum of evolution’. If that isn’t a tantalizing travel soundbite, I don’t know what is.

That the Galápagos Islands’ wildlife lacks natural predators is pretty well-known. This is partly due to the islands’ volcanic origin and extreme remoteness. I’d love to swim with sea lions, dolphins, and giant tortoises. I want to admire exotic birds and uncover species that don’t exist anywhere else in the world. The animals are approachable and tame (and I hear they love the camera). Sign me up.

USP:

Pikaia Lodge’s prime access to this extraordinary part of the world is why it pairs so organically with a Galápagos Island adventure. Pikaia Lodge is a luxury eco-adventure property with cutting-edge architecture and a strong environmentally conscious mindset. Its 14 rooms sit 450 meters above sea level on the edge of an extinct volcano. I’ve always wanted to stay on the edge of an extinct volcano, (rather than an active one), naturally.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

Pikaia Lodge is entirely carbon-neutral and is made up of stone, lava, glass, and steel. This striking architectural combination doesn’t attempt to steal the limelight from the landscape. It looms high over Santa Cruz Island as if it too is leisurely observing the wonders of the Galápagos.

PC: Pikaia Lodge

Four other winners:

Hike Acadia National Park, Maine

Vineyard stay in Bordeaux

Photography Safari in Namibia

Polar Expedition to Antarctica

Why did these make the list?

Hiking at Acadia National Park complements my passion for photographing panoramic views. A vineyard stay in Bordeaux embraces my obsession with cabernets, berets, and soufflés. (I don’t actually like berets, but I’ll do anything for cadence). My love of wildlife would be taken to extremes in Antarctica and Africa.

Narrowing down my top five travel experiences is a challenge. Each time I think I have a final list, another idea emerges. It’s like whack-a-mole in my head. That these five experiences align with my favorite activities is no surprise. What is a surprise is how well these wish lists are acting as birthday, anniversary, and Christmas gift lists, too! I’m nothing if not efficient.

PC: Dylan Shaw, Unsplash

My Travel Wish List: 2 / Countries

Wish List Winner: The Faroe Islands

Do you know where the Faroe Islands are? Despite my current obsession with this self-governing nation, I didn’t know exactly where they were either. I’ve since learned this archipelago of 18 mountainous islands (yes, another archipelago!) is located halfway between Scotland and Iceland and is named after sheep. I love sheep! Now, I want to go there more than ever.

PC: Marc Zimmer, Unsplash

Turf-roofed houses are nurtured by the year-round rainy climate. Even your year-round rain isn’t enough to deter me, Faroe Islands. And I hate getting wet.

PC: Lynn Fae, Unsplash

The hamlets of the Faroe Islands are the stuff of fairy tales. Frodo would feel at home in the shire-like countryside. Lakes, lagoons, and lighthouses are all virtually untouched by tourism. At least for the moment. That I’d like to get there before everyone else reinforces just how selfish I am.

Four other winners:

Panama

Bolivia

Ecuador

Namibia

Why did these make the list?

If you’ve read this far, it’s clear why these countries round out this travel wish list. They each have resorts, hotels, retreats, or experiences I would love to visit or do one day. They are also countries not quite on the mainstream travel radar.

PC: Beinta á Torskilsheyggi

My Travel Wish List: 1 / Culinary Adventures

Wish List Winner: Koks, The Faroe Islands

What a coincidence! If you believe in coincidences, that is. The restaurant at the top of my culinary wish list is located at the top of my country wish list—the Faroe Islands. A visit there would be a travel wish list twofer. I wonder if I’ve lost Daniel by now?

Chef Poul Andrias Ziska is the culinary creator-in-chief behind Koks (which since my morning at Black Coffee, I learn has been temporarily relocated to Greenland). That’s ok, I’m in no rush. That he uses mainly Faroese ingredients in his Michelin-starred dishes compels me to open up another tab and find out exactly what those ingredients are.

PC: Claes Bech-Poulsen

Being a set of islands should be a significant clue. However, beyond fish and seafood, the Faroese diet consists of organic lamb, fermented meat, and root vegetables like kohlrabi, turnips, and rhubarb. I wonder if the two ladies at Black Coffee are aware of this?

Koks is known as the ‘world’s most remote foodie destination.’ Its imaginative dishes follow the seasons and its architecture follows the traditional Nordic style. I will follow Koks anywhere, even to Greenland, if I have to.

Left, PC: Claes Bech-Poulsen Right, PC: Beinta á Torskilsheyggi

Four other winners:

Single Thread, Healdsburg, California

The Three Chimneys, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Restaurant La Chassagnette, Provence, France

été, Tokyo

Why did these make the list?

Dine in the gardens of Arles-based, Michelin-starred La Chassagnette or at farm-inspired micro-seasonal Single Thread in Healdsburg, California. Their spectacular settings match their equally spectacular culinary offerings.

With no sign and one table, Restaurant été, run by female chef Natsuko Shoji, is one of the most coveted reservations in Tokyo. Her French-Japanese-inspired menu is considered flawless, as is her sense of style and design.

Finally, Three Chimneys marks yet another impossible-to-reach-but-worth-the-effort restaurant. It’s hidden on the dramatic shores of Loch Dunvegan on the Isle of Skye. The Nordic-Scottish epicurean experience can only be topped with a night’s stay at adjoining House-Over-By. Those Scots are nothing if not literal.

Want all 5 wish list winners in one place?
Click Here to Get My Free Wish List Hot Sheet.

Aspiration v. inspiration

On the surface, these lists seem superficial. ‘I want to go here. Eat there. Do this.’ I dig deeper into the ‘why’ and notice it’s the experiences I crave. Would I like those experiences to be in or near lovely places, at nice hotels, and with extraordinary food? Why, yes I would

There are many ways to experience cultures, countries, and food. Less expensive ways and more authentic ways, no doubt. This is my wish list so I get to choose the way I want to explore the world. You get to choose yours.

My lists are both aspirational and inspirational. Reading about them makes me happy. Sharing them with you makes me happier (earlier selfishness aside). Going to them would make me ecstatic.

Go big or stay home

My daily life in Washington DC revolves around a one-mile radius. I go to Black Coffee for golden lattes, Millie’s for overpriced salads, CVS to channel inner patience, and Battery Kemble Park to walk my labs. I like my routine, it centers me.

Sometimes inspiration strikes, whether by eavesdropping at Safeway or reading the Sunday Style section of the New York Times. I write lists. Sometimes those lists lead to trips where I leave my DC bubble and discover a far-flung corner of the globe. Sometimes they gather dust up there on the cloud.

But, the days I get Wordle-in-two? Watch out world, anything can happen.

Click here. Be the first to know where I’m going next.

Author’s Note: I am grateful to the hotels, resorts, restaurants, and lodges who kindly gave me high-res photos for use in this post. I’m also using Unsplash for the first time, and praise the photographers who are giving away their gorgeous photos for free. Typically, I only feature my own photos. But alas, if I had my own pictures of these stunning places, they wouldn’t be on my wish list.

If you ever want to get in touch, ask a question, or discuss a way to partner, please email me at [email protected].

April 26, 2022
5 Luxury Hotel Products Worth Bringing Home

(Please note a few affiliate links below. I may receive a small referral fee should a product be bought through my site but rest assured, I only highlight products I own and use.)

Did you know that a whopping $100 million dollars worth of luxury products are stolen from hotels each year?

You’d be surprised by what disappears. Or, maybe you wouldn’t be.

Hotel toiletries, pens, and notepads are free, aren’t they? But where does complimentary end and grand larceny begin? Guests have been known to take robes, towels, pillows, bedding, artwork, silverware, and mattresses. Yes, even mattresses number among the many luxury hotel products guests try to sneak past the front desk at checkout each year.

Occasionally, I’ve found items in hotel rooms I’d like to steal, I mean, take home. Luxury hotel products that have been curated by a designer with my identical sense of style and hygge. Things I covet from the moment I see them, touch them, or smell them.

So what’s the protocol on ‘included’ items versus the ones that will send you on an all-inclusive stay at Rikers? I’d like to see the manual, please.

Post-Pandemic Pampering

Luxury hotel products I crave usually fall into the creature comfort category. Linens, bath soaps, blankets, and candles are examples of items I’d love to stuff into my carry-on at the end of a trip. The desire to replicate the hotel room’s scent and ambiance in my own home is tempting.

Let’s flip the narrative. What if the luxury hotel products we’d like to take, we instead decide to track down and buy? More aspirational. Less illegal. Isn’t the reason these irresistible products are on display is so that we become future clients? That’s my rationale. It’s all a part of a master branding and marketing plan, which I fall for every time.

My Top Five Luxury Hotel Products

Read on for five luxury hotel products I’ve fallen in love with and eventually purchased. Ones I’ve googled, ordered, and found waiting at my doorstep before our plane touched down at Dulles. Need a little post-pandemic pampering? Which little hotel luxuries will you fall for?

And how, exactly, does one steal a mattress?

5/Sferra blankets, Amangiri

Sferra, in brief: In 1891, Italian-born Gennaro Sferra took a steamer across the Atlantic for a stab at the American Dream. His company sold exquisite lace, cuffs, and collars to the East Coast elite and socialites. Today, Sferra is a celebrated brand of luxury textiles, with products ranging from super-fine Merino wool throws to rare Egyptian cotton bedding.

Sferra maintains its linens were the in-flight bedding for Pope John Paul II. And says its fabrics topped the tables of Reagan-era state dinners. While I don’t have enough status on United to warrant custom bedding, Sferra linens can at least grace my dining room table at Thanksgiving.

Props to the source: I discovered Sferra at Amangiri, a boutique hotel located in the Escalante National Monument foothills of southern Utah. Aman resorts have a knack for creating rooms so enticing that we never want to leave them. They simultaneously offer one-of-a-kind excursions that make us constantly yearn for the outdoors. A champagne problem, indeed.

Our suite, a study in desert neutrals, had uninterrupted views of caramel-colored dunes, mountains, and scenic plateaus. Upon entering, a pop of bright orange caught my eye. A Sferra throw, (aptly named Paprika, I’d later discover), was draped across the sofa.

Paprika became my new BFF. I wrapped it around me each evening while searching for shooting stars. I swaddled myself in it while reading the latest Kristin Hannah bestseller. My husband felt replaced. Did I want to stuff Paprika into my roller bag? Absolutely. But I didn’t. Sourcing Sferra was only a click away.

And who wants to get blacklisted from Aman? Not me.

Why I love Sferra: The combination of hues, textures, weights, and patterns of Sferra blankets and throws is dizzying. With seductive, nature-inspired colors like Silver Sage, Slate, Lilac, and Lake, try to buy just one. I couldn’t.

We now have Sferra throws (Merlot, Mushroom, and Moss among them) piled strategically throughout the house. A luxury hotel product that speaks to my homebody nature and keeps me toasty on cool DC nights. And of course, I have my very own Paprika.

Shop It: Click for Sferra Throws

4/Aesop Toiletries, Dunton Hot Springs

Aesop, in brief: Headquartered in sunny Melbourne, Australia, Aesop has been in business since 1987. How this blissful brand escaped me my entire adult life is a question I can’t answer.

Aesop says their objective is ‘to formulate skin, hair, and body care products of the finest quality.’ Not an incredibly unique objective, frankly. It’s possible Aesop is spending its budget on ingredients rather than PR. Thankfully Aesop products require no explanation. If you haven’t tried the Geranium Leaf Body Cleanser, open up another tab and get an order going.

Props to the source: Dunton Hot Springs, a property with fourteen log cabins set in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado is where I first found Aesop. Its vast 1500 acres are flanked by majestic mountains, cool waterfalls, and the serpentine Dolores River. A natural playground for the multitude of activities it offers.

Our family stayed at the Potter House, set at the top of the property overlooking a pond filled with busy beavers. The bathroom had full-sized 16.9 fl oz Aesop products, rather than impossible-to-open, single-use ones. Dunton’s trust in its guests was implicit.

With my newfound hotel-thieving insights, I can’t help but wonder how many bottles are taken each year. Perhaps they don’t mind or don’t know. Most likely, I paid for them one way or another.

Why I love Aesop: The scents, naturally. Take your pick: citrus, woody, herbaceous, earthy, smoky, or spicy. The Geranium Leaf scent still takes me back to our spectacular week at Dunton Hot Springs. The simple and bold, typography-driven designed labels speak to the graphic designer in me. And not for nothing, they also look really good on the shower ledge.

Shop It: Click for Aesop Toiletries

3/New West KnifeWorks, Amangani

New West KnifeWorks, in brief: Corey Milligan, the founder of New West KnifeWorks, runs his company from oh-so-picturesque Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Corey says his passion for creating fine cutlery is matched by his love of food and aims to bring joy to the chore of cooking. I’m definitely in need of that, Corey.

That said, Corey’s knives can be found in the homes of everyday cooks as well as professional ones. Nancy Silverton, of LA’s Osteria Mozza fame, wields Corey’s critically-acclaimed knives. But you certainly don’t have to be a James Beard Award winner to own one.

Props to the source: The first time I noticed New West’s knives was while visiting Amangani. If the colorful cutlery had somehow eluded me there, I would’ve certainly spotted it when dining at the nearby restaurant, Snake River Grill. This might not be a typical luxury hotel product to desire, but then again, Amangani is far from typical.

Amangani is a low-profile and high-impact property perched upon a hilltop just outside of town. With illustrative snow-capped mountain views and green pastures of cows below, Amangani’s vibe is modern rustic lodge-chic. A worthwhile destination in Jackson no matter what the season.

Why I love New West KnifeWorks: Created with American-made steel, New West knives are strong and razor-sharp (certainly a must-have for a knife company). But, the USP (unique selling point) is its extraordinary and whimsical beauty.

Each G-Fusion steak knife is an individual work of art, designed with glass-woven fabric and epoxy resin. To me, that’s just a technical way of saying they are incredibly cool. Less technical are their illustrative and fanciful names: Peacock, Sunburst, Cadet, Lichen, and Huckleberry. A luxury hotel product that’s both beautiful and functional? I’m all in.

Our New West knives always remind me of tackling the Tetons, Amangani, and dinner at Snake River. And when I grill a steak at home, I always choose Sunburst.

Get My Free Wish List Destination Hot Sheet. Just Click.

2/The Citizenry Sheets, the green o

The Citizenry, in brief: Established with the concept of celebrating the people behind their products, The Citizenry believes ‘homes should be reflections of the journeys we take.’ My beliefs exactly, The Citizenry! They partner with artisans across the globe to produce bedding, blankets, and home accessories that mirror that philosophy.

College friends Rachel Bentley and Carly Nance co-founded The Citizenry in 2014, inspired by objects and materials they discovered while traveling the world together. Ghana, Guatemala, Mali, and Morocco are just a few of the places where they found artisans to create their home goods.

I feel like Rachel and Carly should be my friends, too. I wonder where they are going next, and if they’d let me join.

Props to the source: Five minutes after falling into the ultra-cushy bed at the newly opened green o, in Montana, my husband bolted upright, and snapped on the bedside lamp. ‘We have to get these sheets!’, he exclaimed. For those who know Daniel, exclaiming is unusual. Of all the things I could’ve predicted to come out of his mouth at that moment, this would’ve been the last one. Since when did Daniel notice the thread count?

In fact, our tree haus at the green o was filled with items worth lusting after. Cozy blankets so dense I lost my glasses in them. Lush, waffled bathrobes and towels, and a modern desk lamp. This combination of highly-curated objects created a laid-back oasis. I wanted to ~~steal~~, ~~take~~, bring home every little luxury product in the haus. But mostly, I wanted the bedding.

Why I love The Citizenry: I may not have known what french flax linen was then, but I knew I wanted it. The website says the bedding is woven in the oldest, family-run linen mill in Portugal which in itself is a good enough reason to buy it.

The Citizenry sheets and bedding are stonewashed which makes the textured linen softer with each wash. The overall look is disheveled-chic, and ever-so-slightly wrinkled to make our bed even more enticing. If it was hard to get up in the mornings before we had The Citizenry bedding, it’s nearly impossible now.

It’s Daniel’s fault, as I remind him every morning.

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1/Pretentious Glassware, Blackberry Mountain

Pretentious Glass, in brief: Matthew Cummings is the owner, founder, and glassblower-in-chief of Pretentious Glass. Mr. Cummings spent years cultivating a relationship with Blackberry Mountain, a wellness retreat nestled in the Smoky Mountains of Tennessee not far from his studio in Knoxville. A fine art sculptor turned commercial artist, Cummings’ creations in glass are a modern, festive, take on classic styles.

Props to the source: On our three-day girl’s trip to Blackberry Mountain, we spent much of our time hiking, sound bathing, and eating. But we also spent much of our time ‘rehydrating’. The Firetower bar, at the peak of the property, was a great place to settle with a cocktail and a glass of wine. I would soon learn that all of the glassware at Blackberry Mountain was created by Pretentious Glass.

Why I love Pretentious Glass: At dinner, I fell in love with our decanter’s fanciful design. I swore it made our cabernet taste bolder, which then made the food taste better, and our night even funner. (Yes, I know funner isn’t a word, but it should be).

I tried to buy one on the spot to no avail. In fact, they aren’t for sale even on Matthew’s website. I’m still trying to get my hands on one to this day. I don’t give up easily, Matthew. Be warned.

In the meantime, I’m content to purchase other hand-blown glassware from Pretentious Glass. For Father’s Day, I bought Daniel four Subtle Beer Glasses. The designs are truly extraordinary, sculpted to fit his hand like a well-worn baseball mitt. I wish I liked beer just to have an excuse to use one.

Stealing Time, among other things

Ever curious about what the rules are when it comes to what’s included in a hotel stay, I dug deeper. I’m a rule follower. I get nervous when I color outside of the lines. If a bathroom is for customers only, I become a customer. I’m not sure where this annoying moral compass comes from but will make a note to take a deep dive with my therapist next Thursday.

While in some cases, it’s a blurry line, others are razor sharp. Maybe it depends on one’s perspective. Pens, toiletries, and notepads all seem legit. Take a robe, towel, or duvet and you may get charged for it eventually. Walking out with artwork and furniture seems downright illegal.

But hey, that might just be me.

Here’s a list of the most commonly stolen luxury hotel room items:

Alarm clocks
Hangers
Pens
Artwork
Silverware
Lamps
Lightbulbs
Robes
Towels
Batteries
Pillows

And for those still wondering how to steal a mattress? Apparently, your best bet is to sneak it out in the middle of the night and hope there’s a sleepy bellman on duty. Happy travels!

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March 10, 2022
The Green O Strikes Gold. Montana’s Newest Luxury Retreat.
The green o is Montana’s answer to the latest travel trend: luxury-minded adventure escapes. A place that strikes the right balance of indulgence and adventure, and includes culinary experiences and tasting menus worth traveling for. Follow me to the green o, and read about the newest adults-only luxury retreat in the Montana wilderness.

“Are you sure the Sunset Trail goes through this field?” I ask my husband, warily.

“Trust me”, he replies, unhinging the creaky, metal gate, and ignoring the wooden sign marked: “DO NOT ENTER.” I bite my tongue, then follow.

We’ve been at the green o, Montana’s newest luxury adventure property, for all of two hours. My ‘adventure mindset’ is not yet fully formed. But here I am mountain biking toward a herd of hairy bison. Blind faith semi-firmly placed in my husband’s overly confident orienteering abilities.

Does anyone see the bright red flags waving in the distance? Unfortunately, I don’t.

Survival Skills at the green o, Montana

Daniel speeds past the bison with the grace of Chris Froome in the early stages of the Tour de France. I bumble along, struggling to find my balance. My shoes are too tight and my seat is too high. I can’t quite figure out the gears. I’m already parched.

I stop to take a photo—a thin disguise to catch my breath.

The bison look at me. One snorts loudly, breaking the silence of the pasture. Others chime in. Their collective snorting sounds threatening. They shake their massive wooly heads in utter disbelief, unleashing a flurry of flies.

“City folk”, they must be musing in their pea-sized brains, “Should we give them a free pass just this once?”

I feel judged. And rightly so. Daniel is miles ahead. I’m within 10 feet of these massive beasts and suddenly feel like a mid-morning snack. Daniel contends bison eat grass, not humans. But don’t grizzlies eat fish? Daniel has no comment, naturally.

Take deep breaths, I tell myself. Then channel my inner Soul Cycle warrior and power past them.

Spoiler alert, I survive.

The green o: Fields of Gold and Silver Linings

If the pasture where the Sunset Trail may or may not have cut through was any less captivating, I would have put down my size six sneaker in toddler-like defiance. But I see butter-yellow grasses glow against distant mountains. The bison, while terrifying, dot the field in wispy, chocolate-brown brush strokes.

The scene has all the makings of the 20th-century realist paintings I studied in Art History. A canvas imbued with the mysteriousness of Americana. Fields of gold and weathered farmhouses. An extraordinary sight for my city-centric eyes, and one of many Wyeth-inspired moments I discover at the green o.

So yes, I live to tell the tale. In the way of silver linings, I have more than a few bison portraits to show for it. And no permanent scars. Risk, meet reward.

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Welcome to The Green O

The green o (intentionally lowercase to exude an approachable, casual vibe) is an adults-only property located in the Blackfoot River Valley, in Greenough, Montana. It has 12-stand alone accommodations, each called a ‘haus’. If you are any good at math, you will quickly calculate that the green o has a max capacity of 24 guests.

Each haus accommodation at the green o is made from stunning combinations of wood, glass, and other stylized design elements. The hauses are scattered so haphazardly throughout the pine-laden property that they may well have sprung up from the earth itself. The green o refers to the hauses as romantic ‘glamping’ accommodations. But with eco-kitchens, outdoor hot tubs, and wood-burning fireplaces, they go well beyond any glamorous camping I’ve experienced.

The green o vs Paws Up

Hundreds of pines stand at attention in this small gated enclave on the southern edge of Paws Up near the scenic Blackfoot River. Paws Up Ranch is the sister property of the green o—a family-friendly resort established in 1915 by Paul Greenough. His property encompasses a whopping 37,000 acres of land. Well played, Paul.

Back in the early 1900s, Mr. Greenough, for whom the town and ranch are named, painted his flock of sheep with a large green “O”. A simple mark that was certainly ahead of its time from a corporate branding perspective. Does Oprah know about this? Hence the name of this Montana woodland escape—the green o. A tribute to the founder, rancher, and all-around man about town. Literally.

The relationship between the family-friendly Paws Up and the adults-only green o is decidedly one-sided. Guests of the green o are welcome to use any facilities at Paws Up. But guests of Paws Up are unable to access the restaurant’s tasting menu and common spaces of the green o. This lop-sided relationship adds an air of exclusivity for the 24 oh-so-lucky green o guests.

Finding Gold at the green o

While green is undoubtedly the signature color of the property, I can say without fear of my kids’ ridicule, that I found gold. Well, perhaps some fear. That does sound kind of corny.

I’ll attempt to exhaust the limits of the metaphor. Yellow tamaracks burst brightly from a forest of otherwise green firs, creating a ripple of gold. They shed their short needles so that the paths around the property appear to be paved in gold. A large, gooey golden honeycomb sits atop the bar in the main restaurant ready to be drizzled on my morning granola. Metaphor officially exhausted.

Earning Dinner at the green o

Luxury adventure retreats are popping up around the country at lightning speed. The appeal is clear. Travelers are looking for places that provide interesting combinations of active excursions, indulgence, and unique culinary experiences.

Hotel trends show heightened popularity in places where guests feel they have ‘earned’ that Michelin-worthy meal, multi-course tasting menu, and one-of-a-kind styled lodgings. Or, maybe that’s just me?

‘Earned’ could mean climbing a mountain. Or, taking on the green o’s mile-long Grizzlyman Trail. In our case, earned means outrunning simple-minded wild beasts. It’s a reward to mark a day we pushed beyond our comfort zones.

The green o takes it further by adding on unusual experiences, like an ATV ride to a remote ghost town or fly fishing in the Blackfoot River. A day-long Frontiersman Ride on horseback or participating in an authentic cattle drive. It’s all too easy to see the allure of adventure-inspired trips. Especially ones in remote wilderness locales like Montana.

At the Green O, It’s all about me us you

My husband and I come to the green o to create adventures based on our vacation style. Our trip doesn’t look like anyone else’s. I mean that literally and factually. Since our return, I’ve been stalking the green o and its guest posts on Instagram. Not one reel, story, or little square tile replicates our trip. Yet, they all look equally spectacular.

This is the beauty of the green o—that we can interpret the activities and offerings to reflect our own personal brand of adventure. Like on our first bike ride when Daniel chose to interpret the ‘DO NOT ENTER’ sign differently than me. Needless to say, we decide upon a few other activities with slimmer chances of being trampled to death.

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Choose our own adventure

Montana is a new state for both of us. We’d like to get up close and personal with the natural beauty for which it’s so well known. We opt for a six-mile hike through the ominously named Lubrecht Experimental Forest, which we access from a path behind our Tree Haus. I dismiss the irrational fear of being abducted and experimented on by a mad scientist named Lubrecht.

But trails named Grizzlyman, Hunter’s Point, and Anaconda are surely trying to shake my confidence level, which is medium at best. Dictated in part by past hiking adventures gone awry (Exhibit A: Wyoming) and (Exhibit B: England).

Thankfully mountain lions hadn’t been spotted recently around the green o. We are told that the bears are probably hibernating by now. That’s mildly reassuring, I think.

On another day we take a 12-mile bike ride through everchanging scenic terrain. Over burbling streams, and through grassy pastures with snow-covered mountains in the distance. We head up to a rocky lookout and admire the Blackfoot River below. It’s one of my favorite ways to spend a day.

I get to burn hundreds of calories in order to ‘earn’ the Wagyu smash burger waiting for me at the Social Haus. All the while admiring stellar views.

The Green Haus

Our haus, in the middle of the trees

The green o has four different haus accommodation types: the Round Haus, the Tree Haus, the Light Haus, and the Green Haus. All are within striking distance of the Social Haus—the green o’s main (and only) restaurant, which has a different tasting menu each evening.

The Tree Haus

I have my heart firmly set on the Tree Haus. The idea of sleeping among the stars in the wilderness must have awakened some part of my inner child. (My parents are surely wondering whose inner child I am referring to.) I hated camping as a kid and still do.

Maybe I was just waiting for the right kind of Tree Haus? Sleeping 23 feet in the air and seeing the stars blinking brightly between the tall pine silhouettes is ethereal. Even if it is from the second floor of our glass-enclosed heated Tree Haus.

The Round Haus

And, even if the bedsheets are so insanely cushy and cozy that we buy them the moment we arrive home. And that we can order on-demand wood-fired pizzas to that very same bed. This is my kind of camping.

Views Win at the green o

The design of our Tree Haus is inspired. A small glass entryway pops from the ground like a submarine’s periscope and invites us to shed our boots and coats. A floating spiral staircase snakes upwards toward the first-floor landing.

The drama is worth the climb—360-degree views of pine forests from floor-to-ceiling windows.

I stop to take in the space and first notice the modern wood-burning stove neatly tucked in the corner. There is an oversized chair beside it, and I make a mental note to curl up in it with my new Amor Towles novel as soon as possible.

In the freezer, I discover two homemade ice cream sandwiches just waiting for the midnight munchies to surface.
Pine-filled views trump all, which is likely why the green o gave us so many places to admire them. A hanging outdoor chair sways in the breeze on the wraparound outdoor deck. The bedroom balcony is the ideal spot to spy deer traversing the landscape. Even the view from the bathtub windows maximizes the woodland panorama.

The only other place for guests to mingle indoors at the green o is the Social Haus. That is perfectly fine with me, as the only thing that will get me to leave a fabulous room is a fabulous meal.

Getting Social

I’m not a ‘save the best for last’ type of person. I like the best first. So why am I writing about our culinary experience at the green o last?

The answer is simple but wordy.

If the green o had no hikes, no bikes, and no ATVs. No Tree Hauses, Round Hauses, or Green Hauses. If the woodlands were devoid of mountain lions, deer, and hibernating bears. If there were no golden tamaracks, golden pastures, or golden paths of golden needles. I would still go to the green o—for the food.

The Social Haus

I am a self-appointed foodie and travel for food the way others travel for a Broadway show or a music festival. I expect the food at the green o to be spectacular. Incredibly, I get much more than I expect.

Every meal at the green o is included in the price of the room. Craft cocktails and (most) wines are included as well. The culinary talents of Chef Brandon Cunningham are almost impossible for me to describe. But I will try.

3 dinners x 7 courses = 21 courses

The highlight of each evening, without a doubt, is the inventive 7-course tasting menu prepared by Chef Brandon and his faithful team. Seven unique courses each night for our three nights without a single course overlapping. Factor in that every other guest will also not overlap a course during their stay and you can see why this is a Mensa puzzle I’ll never solve.

The Social Haus has a convivial bar where guests can have dinner while watching the chef and his team create culinary magic. I order the Greenough Gimlet, with local Spotted Bear Gin, yuzu, and rosemary.

Daniel has Sudden Smoke, which requires the bartender to light a piece of wood on fire then place the glass upside down to absorb the smoke. It is just this kind of attention to alcoholic detail that makes the cocktail experience another green o adventure.

A dark green leather banquette semi-circles around a large glass-enclosed fire. Daniel and I sit facing it, as do all the guests, which creates an informal dinner party ambiance. Conversation flows, as do healthy pours of wine.

Seeing is believing, at the green o

The execution of Chef Brandon’s culinary creations is better seen than told. And better eaten than seen. One artfully designed course follows another. Like his version of Chinese take-out, complete with the ubiquitous cardboard box and chopsticks. Or, a modernized ham and cheese sandwich.

Meals are prepared with absolute intention and often with the help of tweezers. No detail is overlooked, whether that be the leanest slice of hamachi, the flourish of a matsutake mushroom, or a flowering spiral of avocado upon sourdough toast.

Each night I swear I couldn’t possibly handle another seven courses. But I do. I only wish I could stay longer. If for no other reason than to see if Chef Brandon ever slips up and serves the same course twice.

Lunches and breakfasts are as inventive and mouth-watering. Fried chicken and waffles with golden raisin chutney and coconut syrup; chamomile yogurt panna cotta with fresh berries, honeycomb, and pistachio; and the famous Wagyu smash burger. With its secret sauce, griddled onions, and pepper jack cheese, Daniel says it is the best burger he’s had. Ever.

Add in service with a Midas touch (notice how I continue to flog the metaphor?) and it’s obvious why the food experience at the green o is another star among stars.

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Your green o

What will your green o experience look like? Will you opt for a spa treatment or a leisurely hike? An ATV ride or a horseback ride? Mountain biking or fly fishing? Perhaps a long hot bath followed by a fire and a good book? The combinations are as high-adrenaline or as low-key as you’d like.

It’s worth mentioning a few other perks included in the room rate, which may seem high—until you have your first tasting menu Then you will realize that you are winning, as every single meal is included and is better than the last. Guests are welcome to dine at the restaurant at Paws Up, which I’m sure is lovely, but don’t. There is no reason to leave the Social Haus. Trust me.

The green o includes transportation to and from the airport in a hybrid Lexus. That same Lexus (or one from the on-site fleet) is at our disposal should we want to go off-property. Lastly, we are given a $500 voucher that we can use towards anything not included in the room rate. We used ours for a special bottle from the reserve wine list and a massage.

Gold abounds at the green o, no matter where you look, and no matter what season. I found gold everywhere, but none more noticeably than in the service, the food, and the bucolic setting. The only thing missing from our trip to the green o was more time.

It’s a sign

On our last afternoon, we drive along the road where we started our first bike ride. Just past the spot where the Sunset Trail may or may not have been. About 50 yards away we see a different sign, this one is a tad more informative: ‘DO NOT ENTER ENCLOSURE. THESE ANIMALS ARE DANGEROUS’.

I don’t gloat. But I want to.

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December 7, 2021
Searching for the peaceful life, at Amanzoe, Greece

Google Amanzoe. Go ahead, I’ll wait.

With 156,000 search results, Amanzoe is hardly a well-kept secret. What can I say or write that hasn’t already been said or written about this palatial property? How can I uncover beauty not instantly available by scrolling postage stamp-sized squares on the phone? Or, found in a quick Google search?

Let me give it a try. But perhaps first, a few things you will find in a quick Google search of Amanzoe, because essentials are still important, naturally.

Amanzoe, Greece: The Facts

Where is Amanzoe?

Amanzoe sits on the Peloponnese Peninsula, which is on the southern coast of the Greek mainland. It’s about a 2.5-hour drive from Athens and overlooks the Argolic Gulf and the Saronic Islands.

How do you get to Amanzoe?

There are three ways to get from Athens to Amanzoe: helicopter, Aman private car, and rental car. As you might imagine, this list is not only ordered from most to least expensive but from shortest to longest travel time.

How many rooms does Amanzoe have?

Amanzoe has 38 unique accommodations. A combination of one-bedroom pavilions, beach cabanas, and villas. The villas range in size from one bedroom to nine.

Nine-bedroom Villa 20 is the stuff of Aman legend. It has six swimming pools, multiple dining areas, four kitchens, and a Greek Taverna barbecue. Villa 20 also has a private spa, a private gym, sculpture gardens, and 360-degree panoramic sea views. Did I mention it is spread over a whopping six levels on four acres?

Oh, and a staff of 18.

Villa 20—an Aman within an Aman. How meta.

Amanzoe Facts aside

Six days isn’t enough time to become an expert on Amanzoe, or on anything, for that matter. Nonetheless, six days was enough time to learn a few noteworthy aspects of the property. As well as the people who keep it running seamlessly. Not to mention the Argolis peninsula, which is ever so gracefully situated between the Saronic and Argolic Gulfs.

Amanzoe, First impressions count

We arrived at Amanzoe at 4pm, after three flights, two layovers, and a scenic 30-minute helicopter ride. Any signs of fatigue evaporated the moment we walked through the monumental entrance. Greek in design, glossy, and white. The scent of jasmine filled the air. I turned my head left and noticed the tell-tale, star-shaped flowers, en masse.

Looking ahead, a wide, elongated reflecting pool drew my eye toward the centerpiece of Amanzoe. An enormous circular marble platform hovered above the Aegean Sea. When I use the term jaw-dropping, it is not metaphorically.

Olive trees with their chalky green leaves, and age-revealing gnarled trunks, dot the Amanzoe property. Some, are crooked and wrinkled (the elders), others skinny and lanky, (the teenagers), and all the life stages in between.

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Amanzoe, Sunset commentary

In May, the sun starts to set well after 8pm. That gave us plenty of time to settle into our villa and return to the platform for cocktails. Later, we would witness the nightly ritual of ‘sunset commentary’.

We overheard guests compare the sky to the one of the previous night—were the streaks more tangerine or pumpkin-colored? Those purples, would you say plum or eggplant?

I wondered if the staff ever tired of the setting sun, or the running commentary. I imagine they don’t since each night was similar in terms of sheer beauty but quite different in the details.

The shifting rays made the marble glow and forced deep shadows from the olive trees. Mother Nature must live here, I thought.

To add an unnecessary, yet ethereal touch of theater to the scene, a fire table was ignited each evening. A gesture of solidarity with the sun’s disappearance.

Amanzoe, Greece: Questions, Answered

Paul Linder is the master of ceremonies (aka General Manager) at Amanzoe, Greece. He floats breezily among the guests, speaking en français to the French, and en español to the Spanish. All the while looking like he stepped out of Italian Vogue. And ever-smiling—Paul is in his element.

“What don’t people know about Amanzoe?” I asked, “because it seems as if it’s all been said.” Paul paused. Then he told me that the area where Amanzoe resides, Porto Heli, is considered “the Hamptons of Greece”. That, I didn’t know.

Kings, former kings, celebrities, former celebrities, shipping, and business tycoons come here to not be seen. The entire peninsula has a distinguished air of privacy. Their mega-villas dot the landscape. And their bespoke super-yachts peek out from secluded coves and pop from the sapphire blue waters.

Paul went on to speak of the architectural elements that make up Amanzoe itself: stone, glass, marble, and wood. He spoke of the natural elements, the flora, and fauna, all native to Greece.

Each olive tree at Amanzoe had been artfully placed or replaced—some of which are up to 600 years old. Ed Tuttle, the creative genius behind Amanzoe, as well as over 30 other Aman properties, sadly died last year. But his work lives on, and what an awe-inspiring body of work it is.

If you build it

The palette of the Peloponnese Peninsula, and Amanzoe, is subtle shades of yellow, green, and purple. Wispy grasses, Mediterranean herbs, and slender emerald-colored cypress trees thrive. Bursts of fuchsia breakthrough in the form of a single flower. Or, a cluster of berries and a wave of bougainvillea. Lavender abounds.

Perhaps, the most interesting thing Paul remarked upon, was how the setting of Amanzoe was purposely built and designed. The grandiose main pavilion was created to represent the Acropolis. The villas below symbolize the city of Athens. How clever.

An intentional nod to ancient times. Amanzoe even replicated the famous theatre from nearby Epidaurus (in miniature, thankfully) on the property. Guests can reserve the amphitheater in advance, and dine privately among a hundred ambient lanterns. Mr. Tuttle, I stand in awe.

This intriguing mini-city design is certainly one way that Amanzoe stands out among its peers. Which prevents it from ever feeling crowded, even at capacity. If I had Villa 20, I would never leave it. In fact, I doubt I could even find my way out.

Amanzoe’s Villa 31

Villa 31 has the distinction of being the only one-bedroom villa at Amanzoe. There are many freestanding one-bedroom pavilions. However, Villa 31 is one-of-a-kind, perched on the far western tip of the property. It quietly overlooks the untamed landscape and the Aegean Sea.

Towards late afternoon, the mountains across the gulf start to lose detail and their sharp edges. The layers of blue melt into one another, creating a panoramic watercolor.

Mediterranean gardens surround the villa and the 25-meter infinity-edged pool. Bees feast on lavender. Amanzoe’s Villa 31 is made of stone and possesses a rustic, farmhouse feeling, unlike the other villas.

The interior is as serene and inviting as the exterior. Nearly every window and door open to the pool and sea.

A shaded terrace with cushy seating and a small reflecting pool form a separate structure from the villa. This is where our inventive chef, Stelios, created our in-villa meals.

Irina, our lovely dedicated host, helped organize everything from bicycles and golf carts to picnics, and afternoon cocktails. The staff is so warm, knowledgeable, and friendly. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t come home with a few new people to follow on Instagram.

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Plain Sky, at Amanzoe

The most unusual aspect of Villa 31 is its immersive art installation created by the acclaimed artist, James Turrell. The only one of Turrell’s permanent works found in the Mediterranean.

“Sky Plain” is a subterranean room accessed by a hidden staircase on the side of the villa. The perimeter of the 20 x 20-foot space is lined with built-in cushioned benches. The walls and floor are comprised of streaky, glossy black marble.

A square opening, in what looks like a paper-thin ceiling, appears cut with a razor. It established a one-dimensional color-blocking effect as we looked toward the sky. This flattened effect, we were soon to discover, was an essential component of the display.

In the span of about twenty minutes, colored lights in the room slowly changed, and so seemingly did the sky. It was an illusion. The sky was not gray, green, or dark blue.

In fact, it was sunset. (Or sunrise, which is the two times of day the exhibit is displayed.) The sky was pure cerulean blue. Believe me, we checked.

Only guests of Villa 31 have access to Mr. Turrell’s perception-defying installation, which made us feel like total Amanzoe VIPs.

Daytrippin’ from Amanzoe

One of the many things Aman does extraordinarily well is excursions. Amanzoe has more ways to explore the Peloponnese than we had time. We chose carefully, knowing how hard it would be to leave the villa.

At 9am, we boarded the Amanzoe One, a Wally powerboat, with a bottle of wine and a picnic lunch.

We sped past the islands of Spetses and Dokos on our way to Hydra. Hydra, we were told, is an island where time has stood still for over 200 years.

Hydra, Idra, Ydra

There are no motorized vehicles on Hydra (aside from the local ambulance). Horses, donkeys, and mules roam the streets as they had done in centuries past. They carry packaged goods, produce, and sometimes people, from the port into the town. Water taxis bob in the marina to take residents and tourists to the mainland.

Hydra isn’t only a picturesque town, with a central clock tower, and lemon and orange trees growing in abundance. It’s also an appealingly quiet one. The clip-clop of hooves was a welcome change from engines.

The slick stone steps led us high above the port, from where we could see daily life unfolding below. I got lost in a daydream of living on Hydra, with its simplicity, calm, and natural beauty.

Where wellness began

It can appear that ‘wellness’ is a new phenomenon, as it’s so trendy and newsworthy these days. The ancient town of Epidaurus, however, was at one time considered the healing and wellness center of the universe.

Sick people traveled by boat, and then walked for miles, to cure their ailments here as early as the 6th century B.C. As the fame of the region grew, so did its prosperity, which enabled an enormous stone amphitheater to be built.

When completed, it seated 14,000 people. To this day, while in partial ruins, even a lowered voice still carries to the uppermost rows. In fact, a yearly music festival returns to the stage each June. Mark your calendars.

Epidaurus also includes the ruins of a sanctuary, a hospital, temples, and a posh hotel. In 1988, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since Greece had just re-opened its doors to tourism, we were nearly alone at this ancient spiritual site.

Lunch Detour

We took an alternate route back to Amanzoe via the enchanting seaport town of Nafplio. Nafplio is a popular weekend destination for Athenians, the authenticity of the old town was palpable. There we shared a traditional Greek lobster and pasta lunch. To say we overindulged is an understatement.

Tourism is the primary source of revenue in Nafplio. Yet, it didn’t feel overly touristy. I noticed how everyone seemed to know one another along the waterfront promenade of local restaurants. After a few hours of wandering, we headed back to the resort. We were eager to sit poolside and dream about our next meal.

Amanzoe’s 24-hour menu

Excellent food and wine are to be expected at Amanzoe. That again is nothing Google can’t tell you. No guest will go hungry between the two open-air Greek/Mediterranean restaurants, and Nama, the Japanese-inspired restaurant off the main pool.

Thankfully, we discovered the 24-hour menu on our first day. No, not the room service menu, but a list of special dishes that need extra preparation time. The choices were abundant, and I wished I had another week to try them all.

We opted for Lamb ‘Kleftiko’ the following evening. It was presented in a traditional rustic dutch oven overflowing with aromatic scents. Like, rosemary, cinnamon, honey, and lemon. The 12-hour slow-baked lamb fell off the bone and soaked up the juices below. Potatoes and cubes of melting ‘Kefalotyri’ cheese completed the dish. It was divine.

Our personable waiter, Adam, revealed the origin of ‘Kleftiko’, which means ‘stolen’. During the Greek revolution, the guerrillas, called Klephts, survived by stealing lamb or goats from the hillside. Who needs Google when you have Adam?

Amanzoe’s Sustainability Sidebar

The Aman brand has a strong commitment to sustainability, environmental protection, and local culture. As an example, the food at the resort was both seasonal, as well as ethically-sourced.

Wine, From the Fire

The ‘Greek Hellfires’ ravaged 670,000 acres of land in 2007. Thousands of fires scorched the hillsides, and many vineyards didn’t survive, including the Brintziki Vineyard outside of Olympia. However, almost miraculously, their grapes did. From those unscathed grapes, left to struggle in extreme conditions, came wine. They named it ‘Dia Pyros’—‘from the fire’.

There are only 2300 bottles of this celebrated wine, each bottle numbered and signed by the vintner and the oenologist. Our waiter offered us a glimpse of this rare vintage, paired with the story of its endurance.

Peaceful Life found, at Amanzoe

What’s left to know? What parting words can complete our extraordinary experience? Perhaps this—in Sanskrit, ‘Amanzoe’ means ‘peaceful life”, a fitting name if there ever was one. But, maybe you already knew that.

Go ahead, Google it. I’ll wait.

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May 30, 2021
5 of the best unforgettable and over-the-top travel experiences

Vacation, as the dictionary states, is ‘an extended period of leisure and recreation, especially one spent away from home or in traveling.’ Most of us are long overdue. So, when that much-needed vacation finally comes, make it an unforgettable travel experience. Read on for some much-needed travel inspiration.

Travel, whether I like to admit it or not, comes with a certain amount of expectation. I might say, “Oh, I’m happy at any beach, as long as I can relax with a book,” or “I don’t care about the hotel room, I’ll be outside most of the day anyway.” Or even, “The service isn’t that important as long as the food is really good.”

But, in reality, I care. A lot.

Relaxing on a beach with soft sand underfoot is lovely, as long as it isn’t facing an off-shore power plant. I would prefer not to stare at a construction site from my hotel room, regardless of how little time I spend in it. And, service does matter, especially when my room key decides not to work at midnight.

Yes, I have expectations. So, what happens when already high expectations are exceeded? When what I already imagine will be great—is even greater? Those unforgettable moments, while few and far between, are the ones I relive time and again. These are my top five.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 5 / Helicopter Sundowner: Amangiri, Utah

Amangiri is a resort tucked away along the southern border of Utah, where it meets Arizona. As with many Aman properties, Amangiri is small, and a challenge to find, which adds a level of exclusivity that attracts many luxuries, adventure travelers. Their excursions are equally exclusive and unique.

One such excursion presented to us while there, was the chance to watch the sunset over the Utah desert. That’s not terribly unique, one might think. How about watching the sunset, with a bottle of chilled champagne, from the top of an isolated butte, via helicopter? Now that’s more like it.

We spied on the desert from above, the blades of the helicopter sliced the dry air, and made the trip worthwhile from lift-off. The pilot steered us towards Glen Canyon Dam, and then Horseshoe Bend, the iconic shape of the landscape giving credence to its name.

From this vantage point, hovering over the deep canyon, I could see the striations of rock that had formed over millions of years.

We landed on a nearby towering butte, the flat top was an ideal place for the pilot to set up our champagne sundowner.

The terrain was a sea of gold, the rich mesas, and distant buttes picked up the colors from the sun, and the sky dissolved into moody shades of blue. From our aerie, champagne in hand, and no sound aside from the whirling wind, the world stood still.

Despite the high price tag of the excursion, I had no regrets. Even years later, it is one of the most unforgettable travel moments in my memory. And while my husband might disagree, who can put a price tag on that?

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 4 / Sound bath: Blackberry mountain, Tennessee

More than ever, wellness activities have emerged as daily essentials. Whether a 10-minute morning meditation, a mid-day walk, or a late afternoon restorative yoga session, wellness is more mainstream than ever.

In the past, I had tried a few sound bath experiences from my phone, mainly to help me relax before bed. I was curious to try one in person. So when a girlfriend and I decided to take a trip to Blackberry Mountain, we signed up right away.

Our instructor’s voice had a lulling cadence. He introduced us to the practice of sound bathing, which has nothing, incidentally, to do with bathing, or water. The room had high ceilings, and was drenched in creamy, warm light. He was surrounded by a multitude of instruments; gongs, rainmakers, and chimes, among them. A lovely setting in which to spend the next 90 minutes.

Six of us formed a wide semi-circle on the floor and draped ourselves in soft blankets. The instructor then placed a lightly scented lavender cloth over our eyes. Just five minutes in, and I thought that this was already exceeding my expectations.

The senses in my body awakened, and I melted into the sounds. The gongs overlapped the chimes. The chimes overlapped the rainmaker, which sounded like waves crashing onto a beach. First softly, then gaining power, before receding again. I fell asleep, I think. Then awoke to tuning forks in G major, chants, and quite a few unnameable sounds. The vibrations of those sounds lifted and settled within me, as I drifted in and out of a dream-like state.

Towards the end of the sound bath, the group was asked to slowly sit up. I reluctantly followed orders. The gauzy roller shades had been raised, the curtains drawn—had I even noticed them earlier?

I found myself facing purple mountains— the start of sunset. The ridge was razor sharp, and pink and orange hues were just beginning to appear behind it. I smiled. Then I wondered when I could do the whole thing all over again. One reason, of many, to return to Blackberry Mountain.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 3 / Berber Tea ceremony: Atlas Mountains, Morocco

An hour’s drive, and yet a thousand miles away from bustling Marrakech, are the mesmerizing Atlas Mountains. We were on our way to Kasbah Bab Ourika, a rustic oasis nestled gently in the mountains.

A holiday at a kasbah feels intimate and secluded, the only sounds coming from the birds whizzing overhead, and the light rustling of leaves. Meals are served al fresco, with miles of the scenic landscape at which to gaze. While we were hard-pressed to leave the grounds, we knew the mountains had much to offer in the way of adventure.

One misty morning, we set out on a two-hour guided trek toward a Berber village. The Berbers, an ethnic group native to Northern Africa, have a history that dates back to medieval times. The language and culture of the Berbers are still thriving in many parts of Morocco, specifically in the Atlas Mountains.

En route to the village, we passed a herd of woolly sheep and abandoned homes overrun with fields of yellow wildflowers. There were no roads, only donkey tracks, and the occasional moped.

Our guide brought us to a village home where we were taught the ceremonial process of making Berber mint tea.

The matriarch of the family showed us her technique, which involved a series of constant pouring and re-pouring. First, she placed the tea leaves into the pot and added boiling water. She swirled to warm the pot, and then rinsed the tea leaves. Next, she strained the water, reserving only the leaves.

She then added more hot water and allowed it to steep for a few minutes while we chatted—our guide acting as translator. Lastly, sprigs of mint, and a touch of sugar, were added to the teapot. We were honored and humbled by the chance to take part in a small piece of traditional Berber life. I will likely never have a mint tea experience that compares.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 2 / Hammam Spa: The Royal Mansour, Morocco

A hammam, or Turkish bath, is a centuries-old, traditional, Arabic cleansing and bathing ritual. Modern variations of hammam can be found at hotels, resorts, and spas throughout Northern Africa and the Middle East.

Meant to boost the immune system, a hammam treatment uses hot steam to dilate blood vessels, and increase circulation throughout the body. Pores are opened, toxins are released, and the body is immediately refreshed. This sounded intriguing, and unlike any therapeutic treatment, I’d had in the past.

I decided to visit the spa at The Royal Mansour Hotel, in Marrakech, to experience the hammam. I was told that their interpretation of it was one of the best in the city. Marrakech was aglow with high-density, prismatic, and outrageous color, but the spa at the Royal Mansour was decidedly the total absence of it.

I opened the oversized spa door and entered a world of polar white—a jarring contrast from the green gardens I had just left behind. Vaulted cathedral ceilings, a fountain overflowing with white roses, and pale, pastel couches—all within a room of white, wrought iron, latticework. It was ethereal.

Following a short respite on a daybed in the spa’s waiting area, I was summoned by the therapist. She asked me to lie down upon a hot stone platform in a cavernous, marbled, and windowless room. I happily obliged, and put my 21st-century cares behind me, relishing this 8th-century bathing ritual.

A fragrant steam surrounded me, as the therapist scrubbed off layers of unwanted skin with a special black soap, and an abrasive Kessa mitt. It was harsh, and made my eyes water, but was surprisingly invigorating.

Next, she gently poured, and then shockingly threw, warm water across my body, waking me up in an admittedly unexpected way. She proceeded with a full body massage, using therapeutic oils, in an array of intriguing scents.

Lastly, I was escorted to one last room. Bright light streamed through the window towards an inviting, private, plunge pool. Much to my immediate dismay, I discovered it was actually an ice bath. She asked me to immerse myself in the frigid water. While I was initially reluctant, I knew this eye-popping part of the treatment was meant to invigorate my skin, which after 90 minutes of pampering, felt as silky as a newborn baby’s.

Hammam is an experience that is likely not everyone’s cup of tea, given its unconventionality. For me, however, it was all a part of the African adventure. No regrets, Marrakech.

Over-The-Top Travel Experience 1 / Dinner on the Delta, Botswana

There are few places in my travels that have moved me as much as Africa. I am a wildlife junkie and love any opportunity to see animals in the wild. It is no surprise that Africa, and Botswana in particular, would take up such significant space in my travel memories.

After three days of game drives along the Okavango Delta, we thought we had seen it all. Lions, leopards, hippos, and elephants, filled our days and invaded our dreams.

At the end of our last day in Botswana, Foster, our gentle and soft-spoken guide, took us back to our camp so that we could change for dinner. As we climbed out of the dust-covered Land Rover, our safari-weary bodies in need of a hot shower, Foster told us he had one last thing to show us.

My interest was piqued, but my body was shattered. In keeping with my ‘no regrets’ attitude, I climbed back into the Rover and rallied. We bumped along the bush for twenty minutes or so, getting farther and farther from camp, (and a hot shower). The sun was just starting to descend.

We curved around a thicket of trees, startling a few baboons along the way when I spotted something unusual. Not more wildlife, something entirely unexpected.

Miles from civilization, miles from our camp, in the middle of the African bush, was a full-blown, pop-up dinner. A top-shelf bar was created around an ancient tree. A roaring bonfire mimicked the palette of the setting sun and was surrounded by chairs and blankets. A communal dining table set for twenty, and a lantern-lit pathway towards a fully functioning bathroom.

Dinner was being prepared by cooks over open fires, and multiple mouth-watering aromas wafted through the air. I fleetingly wondered if the lions would find the smells as enticing as I did. We were awestruck.

The entire staff of our tent camp, plus the other guests, were treated to a fully-catered dinner in the bush. We sat for hours, eating and drinking, sharing and comparing stories of the day. We replayed our magical moments in the delta.

The low trumpets of elephants, and snorting grunts of hippos in the distance, were the musical soundtrack. With no one manning the camp, I wondered if the cheeky, resident, vervet monkeys were having a party. Botswana—I hadn’t even left, but I was already missing it.

Experience matters

We live in a world of bells, beeps, whistles, tones, and chimes—mostly coming from phones and screens. Our lives are filled with constant noise which interferes with our ability to relax and have calm.

The sounds from these five experiences; the chimes of the sound bath, the wind whistling past us on a remote butte, and the trumpeting of distant elephants, were the antithesis of my normal cacophony. I embraced the sounds of these once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Unforgettable.

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Find your next over-the-top travel experience:

Take a lap of luxurious Lake Como, or just soak up the sun, in Italy.

Tackle the Tetons of Wyoming this summer, with Amangani as your base.

Set your sails on Croatia, and the Dalmatian Coast, by private charter.

March 9, 2021
Discover Why Esperanza is the Family Escape You Need

The resort we chose for spring break, not surprisingly, needed to be family-friendly. There is a difference, however, between family-friendly and completely geared toward kids. Striking that balance is never easy, many places have good intentions but fail. Esperanza, in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, had been recommended to me over the years, so we went for it.

It managed to combine all the touches that would make my husband and me happy: the gorgeous views, great food, and thoughtful service, as well as all the things our kids would want. When we booked, we had no idea what would happen in the world just a few months later, but we pushed forward and ended up with a (different kind of) trip to remember.

A Day Like Any Other

It’s March 11th. The president has just announced that all US nationals must return from Europe. There is panic overseas as Americans scramble to get home within two days. There is panic at airports and at universities where students study abroad. There is panic everywhere, it seems. I panic, too.

That evening, my husband and I went back and forth about whether we stay home or go away as planned to Mexico. It’s our kid’s spring break, that coveted two-week bridge between winter and spring, cold and hot. We agree—we will go. An hour later, we agree again—we should stay. The next morning, we agree one more time—let’s just go. Rarely are our views so aligned! Yet, it was far from comforting.

We are aware that this might be our last vacation for a while. We grasp that we are on the cusp of something big. We know our family would benefit from time away, together, and outside of the escalating chaos. We realize that if we go, things will look much different when we return.

We organize ourselves. We prepare to turn around upon touchdown, or, to stay indefinitely, and pack accordingly. Six bottles of Theraflu, five canisters of disinfectant wipes, and three hand pumps of Purell. Is that enough? Are we really going? What did we agree upon again?

It’s March 14th. Lift off.

Touch Down

When we landed in Cabo San Lucas, we were keenly aware that this vacation would be unlike any other. A telling sign was that our plane, normally booked solid at this time of year, boarded only 30 passengers. Social distancing, a term swiftly creeping into everyday vernacular, was not an issue.

The days ahead would be inherently more reflective and heavier with the uncertainty of the future. I knew this trip would be inked in my memory, and not for the usual reasons.

Esperanza

Often, I write about the overall feel of a destination, the gestalt—to use a theory that would make my art history professor proud. My brain simplifies and organizes ideas in a way that is more user-friendly, and more interesting to read. For instance, describing the way the bedsheets felt, or what combination of spices were in that delicious tortilla soup. How, and if, the resort organically settled into its surroundings. Details that prove to be big and important in the world of inspirational travel. Details that make for pretty sound bites.

Esperanza, as anyone can see from photos, is a stunning property that sits upon a jagged cliff above the Sea of Cortez. There is much I can say about the beauty, both natural, and man-made, of this Auberge-owned hotel.

I am going to focus more on the feelings that made our time in Mexico worthwhile, to illustrate the emotive piece of the trip. And, I’m going to write about whales.

Rituals

The main restaurant at Esperanza, Cocina del Mar, is an aerie—as easily suited to hawks as humans, perched high above a small beach. On the way to breakfast each morning, the kids raced to the circular landing at its entrance to glimpse the daily sand drawing. Along the way, we all tried to guess what it might be—a crab, sailboat, and shell. Why this part of the day became such a highlight amused me. I think the idea of a happy surprise was needed, no matter how small.

I naturally fell into a daily ritual of my own. First, I ordered a wellness shot of turmeric root, lime juice, pineapple, and ginger. I didn’t actually enjoy its robust taste or its jarring school bus color, but I wistfully imagined its medicinal value could keep a virus at bay.

What’s Newsworthy?

Next, I read the news, a 15-minute self-imposed maximum, as it made my heart race and my skin heat up. Wasn’t I here partly to escape the news cycle—which was inconsistent, filled with misinformation, and designed to terrify?

Lastly, I looked at the sea, training my vision for the tell-tale puffs of air that signaled a whale’s presence. Some mornings, they popped through the surface like champagne corks on New Year’s Eve, and other days, they were more elusive. This morning routine settled me, and the whale spotting became another highlight of my day. It gave me restorative moments of calm. By the second breakfast, the waiters knew my order, where I liked to be seated, and had a pair of binoculars on standby.

During our week at Esperanza, the world outlook became bleaker, the news became direr. I woke up each day, wondering if this was going to be the last, that we would have to pack up and go. I relied upon the whales to ground my spinning thoughts.

Color and light

The color palette of Esperanza mimicked the landscape. Pale blue, inky blue, beige, and foamy white—naturally soothing colors. Rolling waves edged up, and then crashed below, the rocky promontory where I sat, showing off as if they were a slo-mo video capture for the latest iPhone commercial. Who knew how deafening the sound of the sea could be until you had all the time in the world to listen?

The light was so pretty it appeared to stick to the obsidian-textured rocks. Several hundred wet, black crabs moved as one over them, giving the impression that the rocks were fluid, rather than solid. The gestalt theory again, is the principle of ‘common fate’—that our brains will lump together individual things that move in a similar direction as a group, and consider it one stimulus. It’s pretty clear I had too much time alone with my thoughts at this point, isn’t it?

Animal Kingdom

I watched the cast of crabs (yes, that is the technical term, I just googled it) scuttle as a unit, and immediately felt my blood pressure plummet. Why don’t I watch the Discovery Channel more often, I chided myself. It’s cheaper than therapy! Wildlife viewing—an organic cure-all.

A pair of iguanas played peek-a-boo around the desert-like boulders near the pool. I gathered they were the resident reptiles, and for many days spied them searching for whales with me.

Little Kindnesses

It was clear early on that the resort was overstaffed, having prepared for the normal onslaught of families worldwide to fill their swimming pools, belly up to their bars, and keep the tennis pros on their toes. The resort, a mix of haciendas, suites, villas, and casitas, looked to be at about 40% capacity when we arrived. When we departed, I sensed there were only about 40 guests left.

Waiters glided about the palm-thatched and open-air restaurants, never forgetting an extra wedge of lime for a beer or the preference for soy milk over cow. This was made only slightly easier to remember by the unfortunate fact that the staff outnumbered the guests. At Esperanza, however, attentive service was par for the course, served daily with warm, engaging smiles.

I was impressed by the above-and-beyond kindnesses, the silent and unsaid courtesies that were extended to everyone, by everyone, all of the time. It was as if the waiters, pool staff, and groundskeepers all knew that something was changing and that it may be a while before they returned to any sense of normalcy. They were right.

Images

I can’t say we didn’t fully take advantage of the bubble we found ourselves in that week. Our family bonded in a different way than usual. We were very together, a precursor for the weeks of togetherness ahead.

My son and husband went on a few long desert runs, harassing skittish rabbits along the way. The kids rode waves with local surf instructors. I spent hours coloring with fine-tipped sharpies on the balcony—my current obsession, while the kids made Tik Toks—their current obsession. All of us tore through novels, having brought stacks from home.

The Intrinsic Beauty of Esperanza

I relished any moment that got me past recurring doomsday thoughts. The lulling beach hammock, the statuesque iguanas, the pool waiters who wore pins that cheerfully cried, ‘Yes way, rosé!’. The serendipitous moment I photographed a fisherman just as he reeled in his catch and the way he proudly held up his prize. The prismatic sunsets each night belied the dark state of the world. Those six nights stretched into forever.

The intrinsic beauty of Esperanza was seen, and felt, inside and out. The 17 acres of lush, well-kept gardens, and grounds, are complete with a lovely koi pond, and interesting kid-centric activities like bocce and life-sized chess. The intimate spa is an oasis within the oasis. The nightly bonfire on the balcony of the main entry—all contributed to that escape from reality we were seeking.

Whales

On the day that would become our last full day in Mexico, we spent a few hours at sea searching for whales. The boat picked us up from the pier, and we leisurely motored past the intsa-ready Arch of Cabo San Lucas. This natural rock formation, teetering on the brink of collapse, is located at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula. Normally overrun with tourist boats competing for pole position, we nearly had it to ourselves.

Our captain was, not surprisingly, well versed in all things whale and had a keen eye for spotting them, even from incalculable distances. Yet, as prepared as we were to see what we came for, witnessing the slow-motion corkscrew movement of a breaching whale is nothing short of heart-stopping. Even the biggest grumps in our group (ahem, Chase and Ella) were without words, maybe for the first time. The whales’ powerful and muscular bodies were awesome; their tails slapped the water like pancakes being flipped by a short-order cook.

Seconds later, as if the universe was trying to tell me, ‘You’ve seen all there is to see here, don’t push your luck.’ a burst of texts from well-meaning friends alerted us of the recent world developments. ‘The US borders are closing’, they wrote — ‘when are you coming back?’

Our time was up.

Closure

We had managed six nights in Cabo San Lucas, and every one of them was a bonus in my eyes. I sat at breakfast, wellness shot in hand, that last morning. If Esperanza does any one thing to perfection, it is dining, where even the indoor seating feels like outdoor seating. And the views were transporting, regardless of the time of day.

Throughout the week, I noticed the guests that had canceled their trips by their absence on the neatly spaced pool loungers. (Loungers that would have been annoyingly spoken for by 7am each morning.) I noticed the lack of ambient noise and family chatter in the empty seats of the restaurants. It was a poignant, quiet, self-reflecting spring break. Not exactly what we had in mind when we booked all those months ago, but lovely in many ways, nonetheless.

My mind filled in those gaps. Another principle of gestalt—is closure. In design, closure refers to how the brain will automatically fill in any missing pieces of an image to create a whole. What missing pieces will I bring back into my life, and what pieces will I purposely leave out when I get home?

Esperanza will once again fill its pools, bars, and suites. It may be filling up as we speak, as restrictions loosen, and people decide they don’t want to cook, go food shopping, or clean dishes for a few days. The thoughtful, and extremely capable staff, is waiting. So are the whales. I’m hoping that the whales are waiting, too.

Where will you find yourself next? Just Click.

Experience the magical and color-filled Slot Canyons with Amangiri as your base, in Utah.

Stay out west a little longer and head to the Tetons in Jackson.

Need more adventure? Dunton Hot Springs, in Colorado, will complete your western travel trilogy.

June 19, 2020
Finding love in Les Baux de Provence
Provence has its own aura, its own colorful, magical, vibe. It was hard to decide where, in all of Provence, we wanted to use as our base. In the end, we chose Les Baux de Provence, and the bucolic hotel Baumanière to stay in. It was truly the most lovely place from which to explore the French countryside, not to mention being one of the best hotels among so many beautiful choices.

Bucolic Baumanière, Les Baux de Provence /

In Provence, I fell in love — with an electric bike. I actually fell in love with many things in Provence, but the brand new matte black electric Peugeot was unexpected, I’ll admit. It had four speeds to help even the least fit cyclist tackle the ever-rolling hills of Les Alpilles. To be fair, I still found it quite challenging at times, even when I eventually needed to kick into turbo mode, as the ‘rolling’ hills at times felt, to me, like the Tour de France.

It was undoubtedly a spectacular way to see this beautiful piece of Provence, passing olive groves, vineyards, and pine forests, stumbling upon tiny hilltop villages along the way.

Past. meet present, in Les Baux de Provence

Our five days in Provence were spent at the magnificent and secluded property of Baumanière. Set on nearly 50 acres, and at the base of the prehistoric and looming limestone rocks and village of Les Baux de Provence, Baumanière has both a timeless and modern quality all at once.

Neo-classical French fountains and water features are woven into the hardscape and landscape, details found in some of the intimate and perfectly manicured grass surrounded pools. Garden pools that make you feel like you are at the manor home of an eccentric and wealthy French uncle. Then there are the modern touches, the electric bikes, for instance, and the uber-stylized main building with its severe architectural lines and geometric sculptures.

Most of Baumanière, in Les Baux de Provence, takes its cue from the past, the five manor houses that have now been turned into charming hotel suites, some with balconies overlooking bundles of hydrangeas and koi-filled ponds, some with large patios where you can order picnics and share a bottle of wine while reading Madame Bovary.

Climbing roses, purple agapanthus, pear trees, and pink oleanders are a mere fraction of what there is to discover while walking the grounds. Washed golden ochre walls from which green ivy delicately hangs. Large, ornate urns filled with overflowing petunias — all make for a setting that feels absolutely fairytale in nature.

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Garden hideaway in Les Baux de Provence

There are gardens at every turn, some displayed in a more typical French style while others feel wild and English. Roaming the property, your nose catches the scents of roses, lavender, and rosemary.

Wander further, and you may find the more secluded pools, with their low wrought iron gates that squeak to announce your arrival. The pool attendant appeared as if on cue with water, rosé, or a plush towel. The cicadas strike up a chorus, low at first, almost unnoticeable, and then slowly ascending into a full crescendo, before becoming so dramatically silent, that the silence itself is startling.

Soft, green, iconic French poplars are perfectly positioned, giving height to the landscape in all the right places. Archways covered in lush jasmine, natural canopies of flowers, and secluded sitting areas dot the meandering acres of Baumanière. You could stay a week and never need to sit in the same place twice, so many alcoves and paths to explore.



Les Baux de Provence

It was hard to leave Baumanière at all but knew we would have missed out on what Provence had to offer us in beautifully arid July. We walked the steep hill to the village of Les Baux de Provence, and while more touristy as the day went on, we enjoyed getting lost in the maze of narrow, cobbled, pedestrian-only streets that seemed to switch back on themselves in every direction.



Slowly, we made our way upwards to catch the views from the 10th c. clifftop castle that sits, in all its glorious ruins, at the highest point of Les Baux. We made a note to come back at sunset, excited to watch the sun’s fiery descent create a magical light show over the landscape and craggy rocks.

Biking Les Alpilles near Les Baux de Provence

Les Alpilles, the mini-Alps, is a low range of mountains that encompass fifteen lovely communes including Les Baux-de-Provence, Eygalières, and Saint Rémy-de-Provence. Our ten-mile bike ride to the tiny, quiet, hilltop village of Eygalières was the catalyst for my love of electric bikes, as well as all things Provence.

We passed fields of sunflowers bowing their large heads towards the eastern sun, as well as gated villas with long lavender-lined entryways. I imagined a future where I could bike to town, pick up a warm baguette, and bike home for lunch — on my beautiful electric bike, naturally.



ancient hilltop villages

We locked the bikes at the base of the village and hiked up the narrow streets, passing sea foam green and ice blue colored shutters that lay against the ancient stone-walled homes. Shutters, that in this part of the world, are functional, not merely decorative.

Lovely flower pots and window boxes sit in doorways, looking well cared for yet in the most nonchalant way. We sat for lunch at Le Progrès, a simple French bistro where we could watch the nuances of village life unfold around us.

We then walked to the church at the top of Eygalières and stopped to take in the quiet that surrounded us. Birds were silently swooping past, and we admired the way the light created shadows through the windows of the ancient church which sat high above the village.



Stars under the stars

L’Oustau Baumanière Restaurant, with its two Michelin stars, is a short walk from the manor houses of the hotel, and along a pretty, quiet lane dotted with houses and views up to Les Baux. Butterflies followed us as we walked as if they already knew how spectacular our dinner was going to be, and hoped to get an invitation.

Walking out onto the sprawling sunlit patio of the restaurant, I still felt that I was playing the role of the manor guest. Mature trees acted as natural umbrellas, and waiters dressed in dark, tailored suits, seemed to outnumber the guests 2:1. The waiters were nearly invisible, as they were so swift and silent. A well-orchestrated dining ballet of sorts.

There was a lovely buzz that surrounded the veranda, all of the guests dressed with an air of old-world elegance, and seemingly from all corners of the earth. I noticed one woman smoking leisurely at her table, looking like a movie star from days gone by.

Champagne and cheese

As a nod to days of formal dining, the champagne and cheese trolleys slowly wove in and around the tables throughout the night. Never one to pass on a cheese course, we let the waiter choose an array of local varieties and enjoyed a 2007 Châteauneuf du Pape, Clos du Pape from Baumanière’s enormous cellar.

We were told the cellars of Baumanière house more than 50,000 bottles of wine from all of the treasured wine regions of France. I had the wonderful opportunity to visit one of the cellars during our stay. Some vintages were from the turn of the century, and first-growth verticals that would make any wine lover’s head spin.

Kindly, the sommelier indulged my love of wine and spent 30 minutes or so showing me around the collection. We had just discovered that he had been the mentor of our sommelier from Albert 1er Restaurant in Chamonix, where we had been staying only a week before. The wine world of France is certainly small and tightly connected!

Boutique-y Saint Rémy

Art galleries, boutiques, and charming sidewalk café life kept us busy for a morning in bustling Saint Rémy-de-Provence. There is a varied mix of locals and tourists, as Saint Rémy is certainly more of a town than a village. We walked among the cheese, wine, and chocolate shops of the old town and used another coffee break as an excuse to sit and watch the world pass us by.

It was especially humbling to see the house where Nostradamus was born, dating back to the year 1503, and realize just how much history this part of France has to offer.

The Golden Goat

We didn’t see a single cloud for days. Dry air, warm temps, and aquamarine skies added to the dream-like quality of Provence. Our breakfasts were spent at the more casual restaurant at Baumanière, Le Cabro d’Or. It was there that I fell in love again—this time with lavender honey. I could happily spend hours on that veranda, fresh berries, granola, nuts, yogurts, all drizzled in local lavender honey—there was no need to ever leave!



At night, Le Cabro D’Or doubled as the other dining option, and the food was as magical as the setting—wrought iron tables and chairs with simple white linens, which allowed the stunning scenery and setting sun to take center stage. Again, impeccable service, and the vast wine list, together created an atmosphere that reiterated why you never ever have to leave the property.

Au Revoir

While it was hard to imagine leaving bucolic Baumanière and Les Baux, part of me knew that it was a special enough place to return to one day. Maybe, in fifteen years or so, I will have my electric bike, my warm baguette, and my own long, lavender-lined entryway to my gated villa in Provence. Just maybe.

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Five reasons to get lost:
- Sitting poolside with a French picnic and a bottle of rosé
- The baby goats that stumbled on their newborn legs in the small farm area on the property
- Biking to small villages and towns in turbo mode
- Looking through the well-curated wares of the on-site boutique at Baumanière
- Coming upon a trio of hovering paragliders as we biked through the vineyards and olive groves
October 15, 2018

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