Face to Face with Mont Blanc, Chamonix, France /
You don’t have to be an intrepid mountaineer to get up close and personal with majestic Mont Blanc in Chamonix. You can do as we did, which was to take the first cable car up and be gratified instantly. We stood on the chilly observation deck, gawking at the looming mountain, not believing it could be so cold up here, while at the base the July temps were soaring into the high 70s.
Suddenly, what could have been a scene from Into Thin Air played out before us. A group of four climbers, wearing full climbing gear, complete with ice axes and crampons, quite literally threw a line over the observation deck and hoisted themselves onto the tourist-filled platform. Here we were, dressed in flip flops and t-shirts, a sharp contrast to the mountaineers’ Arctic attire. They had just summited Mont Blanc, the highest mountain of the Alps at 15,781ft, and were headed down.
They spent a few minutes basking in the bright sun, accepting kudos from the crowd, contemplating what they had achieved, and taking obligatory selfies, before riding the gondola down with the rest of us mere mortals.
L’Aiguille du Midi
L’Aiguille du Midi cable car links the idyllic town of Chamonix to Aiguille. In looking back at that day, I would have been better off not knowing I was about to step onto one of the highest cable cars in the world. I’m not afraid of heights, and have been on my fair share of cable cars in the past, but something about a system originally built in the 1920s (albeit modernized many times over the following century) would have felt unsettling. Fortunately, I overcame my fear, otherwise I would have missed the remarkable panorama of Mont Blanc and the Alps.
Above the clouds
Mont Blanc towers gloriously and steadfast above the charming ski town of Chamonix, which sits on the southeastern edge of France. Spanning the French-Italian border, it is forever capped in snow, and draws many fearless climbers and hikers each year. And while we had hiking plans during our stay there, Mont Blanc is in a league of its own, the highest mountain in the Alps, where crampons, ropes, and deep reserves of stamina are critical gear.
Ski towns in the summer always seem to have a special feeling about them, the greens richer due to the winter run-off, the blues deeper against the pine-filled mountains. I have spent many green summers in Vermont which has an equally beautiful vibe. However, Chamonix has an almost magical aura to it, crowded with adventure seekers, off-season ski bums and tourists alike. Paragliders seemingly so close to the mountains that they could comfortably throw a snowball.
Charming Chamonix
Chamonix is unique in that you feel that you are tucked secretly away at the base of the sloping mountains, the Alps soaring high above you in every direction. It is incredibly dramatic, the razor sharp evergreen pines look like soldiers standing in rows at attention with military precision. Patches of the pine give way to different layers of trees, scrub and rock and then eventually snow caps, like icing on a cake. The glaciers are iridescent, often looking icy blue or even purple depending upon the light. But always moving, so we were told, at a surprising rate of 1000ft per year.
Hôtel Hameau Albert 1er
Perhaps one of the best parts of visiting Chamonix in the summer months is that all the colors of the flowers and greenery are brilliantly juxtaposed against the blue skies and white alpine mountain tops. A botanical rainbow of sorts. Tiger lilies were in season, and the orange and black-speckled wildflowers created another layer of colorful drama in an already dramatic setting.
That said, flowers of every color and variety were on full polychromatic display at our hotel, which was just outside of the village center. The Hôtel Hameau Albert 1er is a Relais & Chateaux chalet-like lodge with its gaze firmly set upon Mont Blanc. Cozy, wooden, rustic rooms, many with balconies or patios that displayed window boxes overflowing with ivy and climbing red geraniums.
The swimming pool is indoor/outdoor in a unique way. A vaulted ceiling and panels of glass and wood allow the sun to stream inside, and when outside, those glass panels become reflective. So, even if your lounge chair isn’t facing the mountains, you can see them in all of their splendor.
Between the glaciers
Our first hike, with the help of a cable car, started at an elevation of 4400ft and climbed virtually straight up to 8500ft. Daniel predicted it would take us about three hours. Fifteen minutes into the ascent, I was sure I was doomed. But then I settled into a comfortable pace and started to admire the surroundings, which took my mind off the challenge ahead. The terrain changed from pine, with brown needles that carpeted the ground, to hot pink wild azaleas and scrub, then further along we snaked high above the tree line where the flowers struggled to survive. Daniel, whether as a motivator to keep me moving, or not to hear any complaints, kept a solid ten yard distance between us. Smart man.
We scrambled over rocks and boulders, passing along a knife-edge ridge between two ominous glaciers, Bossons and Taconnaz, their menacing crevasses distinctly visible. We could hear deafening waterfalls as we turned one corner, then noticed the sound magically disappear as we rounded the next. It was mystifying how the mountains so abruptly absorbed the acoustics. We surprised some wildlife along the way, a lonely ibex leapt across our path, then later a fearless marmot followed us nearer to the summit.
Just before the three hour mark, we came upon a solo Austrian hiker on his way down. Daniel had thought we still had at least 30 minutes or so to summit, and the clouds were closing in, but the Austrian told us we were a mere ten minutes from the top, as we were just about to pass the famous sheltered boulders, Gîte à Balmat, where the first summiters of Mont Blanc spent their first night in 1786. Daniel was elated, we were ahead of the game, and maybe ahead of the weather.
As per the norm with our hikes, we were without a clear view when we reached La Jonction at 8500ft. We had been relatively lucky on the way up, and, thankfully, I capitalized on the views then, sometimes disguising rest stops as photo ops.
Summit sans view
We sat proudly at the summit, despite the clouds and impending rain, our ham sandwiches, chips and bottles of Coke tasted like the best lunch we’d ever had. As we were finishing up, it started to drizzle, and we zipped up to start the scramble down, a little more challenging due to the slippery rocks. The weather presented a unique sequence for us that day: thunder, rain, sun, hail, repeat.
The fog and clouds first obscured our views and then dramatically gave way to sunny patches that looked like a flashlight spotlighting Chamonix village far below. It was a spectacular day overall, and we felt we earned our upcoming two-star Michelin dinner that night at the hotel.
Albert 1er Restaurant
The spare, elegant, wood-paneled, and white table-clothed dining room of Albert 1er Restaurant effortlessly allows the cuisine to take center stage. Not that it wouldn’t if in the most ornate of settings, as the plates are so artfully designed and visually enticing. The flavors blend together harmoniously, as they are partially sourced from the herb and kitchen gardens on the property. The fare is traditional French, using traditional French ingredients, but presented in an entirely non-traditional way.
The written menu cleverly defies what you see on your plate when it arrives. The leeks, calf’s foot, egg yolk and Ossetra caviar dish, for example, looks completely different than what you would have perceived in your mind. Modern, artful, and skillfully designed. Chef Maillet succeeds in challenging every sense in just about every way.
A family affair
Chef Pierre Maillet’s culinary story is also a love story. Having worked for the original chef, Pierre Carrier, Maillet went on to marry Carrier’s daughter, Perrine. Together they have looked after the restaurant and preserved its two star status in the prestigious Michelin Guide. Perrine is visible nightly, greeting guests while gliding around the restaurant and glamorous Quartz Bar, which is complete with a lovely grand piano. You imagine that the French equivalent of Harry Connick Jr. could appear at any moment and start crooning.
Wine-ing and dining
Head sommelier, Marc-Henri Mialon seemed to be the lead player on the dining room floor with his subtle and mischievous sense of humor. We chose the set menu, paired with wine, which led with an intriguing Vin Mystère. At first glance, the mystery wine looked effervescent, like champagne. But that answer seemed too obvious. We spent some time thinking about it and incorrectly came up with a sparkling wine from Alsace. The correct answer? A sparkling Vouvray. Mialon luckily has much to choose from for his wine challenges, as the cellar at Albert 1er houses about 19,000 bottles.
It was a fun and lively way to start the evening, taking away any stuffiness you might associate with a restaurant of this status. I appreciated the lighthearted approach to the wine, which can be an intimidating part of any dining experience. As an aside, we discovered a week later, while at La Baumanière in Provence, that the sommelier there had worked not long ago with Marc-Henri Mialon while at Albert 1er. A small wine world, indeed!
The food and wine became more decadent with each course, from tomatoes, burrata and mackerel with kitchen garden herbs, to dace with pine bud honey, carrots, gingerbread and preserved lemon. Ten courses—an epicurean adventure—including a roving and overflowing cheese trolley. The final hurrah was a Crêpe Suzette made table-side, which actually wasn’t on the tasting menu, but that Daniel had his heart set on and we ordered anyway. Needless to say, we were happy we only had to walk about 100ft to our room. After the day’s colossal hike, and the night’s equally colossal dinner, we were officially ‘fini’.
World Cup France v. Belgium
Being in France during the World Cup frenzy was both a blessing and a curse. The village of Chamonix was pulsing with fans amped up for the matches. Finding a place that we could both enjoy a good meal as well as watch the soccer was a feat. After annoying my husband by walking aimlessly around town trying to find the ‘perfect’ spot, then vetoing a place he found with a large tv, (but no diners, bad sign!), we finally hit the jackpot. A bistro with one recently abandoned outdoor table that had pole position in front of the TV. We conspired to eat and drink as slowly as possible over the remainder of the 90 minute match as we couldn’t bear to give up our prime seats.
France won and Chamonix erupted. It was a fantastic night, made even better by the much needed low-key contrast to the previous evening’s meal. Chamonix has lovely narrow streets filled with hidden dive bars, bistros and shops, many of which are geared towards the outdoor adventure set. The slightly intoxicated bartender at the bar we had visited pre-dinner was so excited when France scored that he abandoned his post, and headed to a neighboring bar to celebrate with a fellow bartender. He reappeared 15 minutes later, more intoxicated, and sent around complimentary shots. A win for everyone!
Lac Blanc
Our second hike in Chamonix proved less lucky than the first weather-wise (not that our first was ideal, mind you) as we set out in clouds and spent the majority of the day in them as well. Yet, the Alps look breathtaking no matter what the weather, and being above the clouds created an alternate yet equally devastatingly scenic view. We were on our way to a reflective lake called Lac Blanc, known to be the most celebrated walk the Chamonix Valley.
Accessible by La Flégère cable car in Les Praz, the hike was shorter and less strenuous than La Jonction thankfully, but had more snow with which to contend. We inched across a few steep, icy passages, now wishing that we had our own crampons and ice axe. The lake was beautiful and serene, and while both Daniel and I had hoped the sun would make an appearance, even for just a few minutes, it refused. So we spent the remainder of the rainy day in the spa and indoor pool at the Hameau Albert, which felt well-deserved after our morning of hiking.
Final views
Three days in Chamonix was just not enough, as I would have loved a few more hikes and maybe a bit more sun. We were due to leave early the next morning, but when we woke up, the shining sun was too good to pass on, so we delayed our departure for one last ride on La Flégère to catch the views that had eluded us the day before.
That morning, I stepped onto the platform of the cable car without fear, and with utter happiness that I was one of the ones wearing flip flops rather than hiking boots this time. We spent a few quiet minutes taking in the awesome panorama of the Alps, then hopped back onto the cable car. Next stop, Provence.
Find it:
Hôtel Hameau Albert 1er: https://www.hameaualbert.fr/en
Albert 1er Restaurant: https://www.hameaualbert.fr/en/gastronomic-restaurant
L’Aiguille du Midi: https://www.chamonix.com/aiguille-du-midi-step-into-the-void,80,en.html
Hiking Routes in Chamonix: https://10hikes.com/france/chamonix-hikes/
